retail focus magazine july 2015

www.mtfx.com/vm

Ice Crystal Spray a spritz of

Regulars7 Leader8 Diary11-13 News

14-15 WindowshoppingInspiring window displays from around the globe.

16 TopofthePOPS

19 KarlMcKeeverKarl looks at the brands that built our cities.

www.retail-focus.co.uk

.20-27 ProjectFocusTed Baker: The Cambridge Satchel Company: Nickelodeon

60 OpinionCraig Phillipson, managing director and founder of Shopworks, offers sound advice for brands expanding overseas.

62 ProductsProducts and services for the retail industry.

74 Q&AWe chat to David Elliott, business development director at Voisins, Jerseys largest department store, about his career journey and the stores beauty department redesign.

29 Beautyretail 58Londonfocus

33VMFocussupplement

Design&shopfiting55 67 Focuson:Lighting

Ted Baker & Moore is the brands latest store concept, designed to shine a light on the wider offering of Ted Baker, nestled in the heart of

East London at 132 Commercial Street.

Widerworld20-21

Returning to London

It was, without a doubt, the best Show we have exhibited at in 20 years in terms of the volume and, crucially, the quality of leads we picked up. We will definitely be back next year.

Mike Houghton, Marketing Director,CJ Retail Solutions

The leading event for innovation and inspiration in RETAIL DESIGN, VISUAL MERCHANDISING, MARKETING & SHOPFITTING is doubling in size and filling up fast!

With 80% rebooked, space is going fast and we expect to sell out well before the show!

Act now to avoid disappointment. Call Rachel or Michelle on +44 (0) 208 874 2728 or email [email protected]

Your unique opportunity to:

Generate qualified targeted leads Secure new business Increase existing business Promote awareness for your company Be seen as a leader in the industry

Co-located with Supported by

Hunter Flagship by Checkland Kindleysides

RDE_RetailFocus_June2015_216x303.indd 1 23/06/2015 10:26

7leader

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EditorLyndsey Dennis

e. [email protected]

t. +44 (0)845 680 7405

Production & WebTerry Clark


t. +44 (0)845 680 7405

Display SalesLee Cullumbine


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f. +44 (0)871 528 8000

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please email:

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Retail Focus is published 12 times a year by

Retail Focus Promotions Ltd, Yeomans, Bassetts Lane,

Woodham Walter, Maldon, Essex, CM9 6RZ.

No part of Retail Focus may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval

system or transmitted in any form without permission. Please

address all enquiries to the editor at the above address. The

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contained in these pages. We will assume permission to publish

any unsolicited material unless otherwise stated.

Retail Focus Promotions Ltd 2013.

In the fiercely competitive sector of beauty retail, achieving stand out is key. The emphasis is on getting customers to try the product. Theres a whole host of elements to consider when designing beauty retail spaces, such as tweaking the lighting so that it doesnt affect the colour of make-up, to keeping units tidy due to the dust created by customers trying out testers. Turn to page 29-30 to hear from some designers all too familiar with this type of environment.

We look at collaborative working between retailer, shopfitter and designer on pages 55-57. Simon Campbell, managing director of fit-out specialist Portview, sums it up: Collaboration between all the specialists on a fit-out project is essential. No project can succeed unless the professionals work together to realise the retailers investment and bring the designers vision for the outlet to life on time, on budget and to a quality standard.

We bring you some of the planned retail sites for London. Battersea Power Station looks set to be a key retail destination for the capital, as part of the Nine Elms redevelopment. Phase 1 of the iconic former power station revamp will open towards the end of 2016. You can read more about this and many other projects in the capital on pages 58-59.

This issue features a dedicated VM Focus supplement, starting on P33. On pages 39-40, Gemma Balmford looks at the role of exhibitions within brand recognition, and on 45-46 we explore resourceful VM. Theres no harm in being clever with budgets and creating inspiring displays by recycling items and reusing props, mannequins and fittings.

Lyndsey DennisEditor

July 15

instagram.com/retailfocus

8diary

Life on FootDesign Museum, LondonRuns until 1 November 2015

Life on Foot marks the 40th anniversary of

creative Spanish footwear brand Camper,

with an exhibition that provides an insight

of how a shoe collection is researched,

created and presented from the carving

of the last to the graphics on the box.

Life on Foot uses some of Campers most

recognisable styles Pelotas, Himalayan,

Twins and Wabi as lenses through which

to explore the design, manufacturing and

history of this independent family- run

business whose products are purchased in

their millions worldwide.

DesignMuseum

www.designmuseum.org

100% DesignOlympia London23-26 September 2015

100% Design is the largest and longest

running contemporary design event

for industry professionals in the UK.

For 2015 the show has a new venue,

Olympia London, and show concept.

The show is defined by four key industry

sections: Interiors, Workplace, Kitchens &

Bathrooms and Design & Build.

designlondon

www.100percentdesign.co.uk

London Design FestivalLondon, Citywide19-27 September 2015

First staged in 2003, the London Design

Festival is one of the worlds most

important annual design events. The

festival programme is made up of more

than 350 events and exhibitions staged

by hundreds of partner organisations

across the design spectrum and from

around the world.

@L_D_F

www.londondesignfestival.com

Autumn Fair InternationalNEC, Birmingham6-9 September 2015

Autumn Fair International offers product

sourcing opportunities for Christmas and

for early previews of spring 2015 ranges.

The show will include Retail Shop, a new

area where visitors can engage with key

industry figures offering expert technical

guidance on topics such as shop design,

product display and in-store solutions.

SpringAutFair

www.autumnfair.com

Photographer: Jill Tate

T: 01945 420 068 | E: [email protected] | @VMDISPLAYAWARDS | VMANDDISPLAY.COM

THURSDAY 19TH NOVEMBER 2015 AT THE BLOOMSBURY BIG TOP LONDON

TAB L E S & T I C K E T S

Recognising & celebrating the work of our innovative and talented industry, the 11th VM & Display Awards will this year be held on the 19th November 2015 at the

exclusive Bloomsbury Big Top in London.

Its a great opportunity to attend an event at this very special location. But tables and tickets sell out very quickly so please contact us as

soon as possible.

E N TRY SUBM I S S IONS

Your chance to join the industry Hall of Fame. Projects are free to enter and can be submitted by retailers or suppliers.

All projects dated between 1st August 2014 and 1st August 2015 are eligible. The deadline for entries is 14th August 2015. See the full list of categories and requirements on our website.

A NNOUNC I NG

11

Topshop recently tranformed its Oxford

Circus flagship into a giant playland, with

inflatables, games, prizes and treats galore

for customers.

Outside, huge inflatables adorned the

store frontage, conceived by set designer

Rachel Thomas, as well as a giant arcade

claw that filled the entire window. A

world first, the game was activated and

controlled by Twitter, with lots of prizes up

for grabs including everything from

make-up treats to a 500 shopping spree. Inside, the fun continued with a

fashion twist on iconic arcade games

such as Zoltar who read your fashion

news

Topshop Oxford Circus transformed into giant playland

Last month, Selfridges installed the

Re-Work It centrepiece in its Oxford

Street store.

Dubbed the rain of chairs, the

centrepiece was the result of more than

90 artists, designers and personalities

including the likes of Cara Delevingne,

Paul Smith and Jasmine Guinness

each reinventing the iconic Ernest Race

BA2 chair and donating the recreated

chair to The Art Room.

All 90+ chairs cascaded down

Selfridges central atrium in an

installation that measured 32m x 14m,

dropping vertically from the ceiling of

the London store. All the chairs were

auctioned off, with all proceeds going to

The Art Room.

future, Ms Pac Man and the Penny Pusher.

Customers could collect tokens to play as

they shopped. The flagship also featured

a tweet for treats vending machine that

dispensed goodies all weekend as well as

giant lollipops and candy floss giveaways

throughout the store.

Topmans entire window was taken

over by a giant video arcade screen, and

on the second floor shoppers could play

to become King of the Hammer in a giant

version of the popular game. Everyone who

played went home with some sort of prize,

and if they hit the jackpot they could win a

100 voucher.

Raining chairs at Selfridges

12

news

12

In brief...

UK Point of Sale is celebrating its 25th

anniversary this year. To celebrate, the

company has created a timeline on its

website to showcase its achievements

during the years.

The British Retail Consortium has launched

a new brand identity, designed by We

Launch. As the retail landscape evolves,

it was important for the BRC to refresh its

own brand so that it continues to stand at

the forefront of such an exciting, diverse

and dynamic industry.

The Shop and Display Equipment

Association (SDEA) has published a new

guide for 2015/2016. Buyers can select

from more than 100 leading designers,

manufacturers and suppliers of specialist

retail display products and services. A free

copy is available to the first 50 readers who

call 01883 348 911 or who mention Retail

Focus when emailing [email protected]

RBTE has announced a major new

development with the launch of the

eCommerce Quarter at the 2016 RBTE

exhibition. The eCommerce Quarter will

be a major show within a show at RBTE

featuring 50+ stands that will be devoted

exclusively to eCommerce vendors. The

new space will also host an eCommerce

Conference Theatre.

12

Westfield London to expand The Village luxury quarter

Vitra and Camper launch pop-up

Architect Dibdo Francis Kre has designed a

pop-up project on the Vitra Campus in Weil am

Rhein, Germany as a joint venture between Vitra

and Camper.

The pop-up, located in the Dome on the

campus, has been designed in conjunction

with the Making Africa exhibition at the Vitra

Design Museum and will also enable the project

partners to explore experimental ideas for new

retail concepts, which aim to make shopping a

true experience and stengthen the relationship

between the brand and its customers.

For example, visitors to the Dome will be able

to access digital information about the specific

models along with the background details on

their design. Another feature is the scanner that

takes precise measurements of a customers feet.

The resulting data not only determines the optimal

fit for a pair of shoes, visitors can also order a

customised insole based on their individual foot

shape. The scanned data can then be used for

subsequent online purchases from Camper.

Marks & Spencer has opened its

largest UK franchise store at London

Waterloo. The full line store offers 464

sq m of general merchandise space as

well as a 418 sq m food hall.

The store is the retailers second

station site to sell both food and

clothing the general merchandise

section sells womenswear, menswear

and lingerie. Its also the first station

site to offer the retailers Shop Your

Way service, including two touch

screen ordering points to order from

M&S.com in-store, providing customers

with the full M&S offering.

Marks & Spencer opens largest franchise store

Westfield has announced a multi-million pound investment in the expansion of its

luxury shopping area, The Village at Westfield London. The plans will see a number of

stores expand, new luxury names open and existing retailers relocate to larger spaces.

The refurbishment will see fashion brand Versace increase its presence with

three stores in Westfield London, including two new stores in The Village - Versace

and Versus Versace. Following the success of its pop-up store at Westfield London,

shoppers will now be able to visit the first permanent Versus Versace store in the UK.

Other new retailers arriving in autumn 2015 will include Sandro, Jigsaw, Zadig and

Voltaire and Claudie Pierlot. In addition, Whistles will be opening a new enlarged

store later this year. Hackett has recently completed a refit and opened an impressive

new store. Caf Concerto has relocated to a larger space, creating an exciting new

dining concept in The Village, and Georg Jenson has opened a new store.

The Village enhancements also include the launch of a new personal styling

service, The Fashion Lounge, located on the second floor of The Village. Expert stylists

will be on hand and a range of beauty treatments will also be available from The

Fashion Lounge.

1313

news

Tiffany & Co. celebrated its new store

installation at Selfridges earlier this month

by creating an immersive experience that

took visitors on a magical stroll down Fifth

Avenue, New York.

Called Fifth & 57th and located at

Old Selfridges Hotel on Orchard Street

behind Selfridges department store, the

installation explored the corner of Fifth

and 57th where Tiffanys iconic New York

flagship is located, recreating the energy

and excitement of the city where Tiffany

was founded in 1837.

Visitors entered through a Subway

turnstyle. Hundreds of boxes created a

skyline of buildings, with light projections

recreating Manhattans bustling street life.

The flagships store front featured window

displays by the legendary Gene Moore,

Tiffany & Co launches Fifth & 57th installation

Heals opens co-working cafe at Tottenham Court Road site

Heals has collaborated with Forge & Co to introduce a new

co-working cafe at its Tottenham Court Road store. Situated on

the first floor, Forge & Co at Heals offers a rejuvenating, creative

hub combining co-working space for customers and local

residents with a lounge bar and a British brasserie - named

The Canteen, in tribute to the sites original use as an eatery for

Heals workers.

Forge & Co at Heals reinforces the social working

phenomenon where professional and leisure activities meet,

allowing people to exchange and grow ideas together in a

stimulating, collaborative working environment. Architect Moxey

Associates has created a contemporary, multi-functioning space,

encompassing co-working, meeting, dining and lounging zones.

Nestled within the comforts of the Heals store, the new caf

is designed not only to be a hub within the Heals building but

also a retreat away from the hustle and bustle of the West End.

The overall aesthetic is relaxed and comfortable, using carefully

selected pieces from the Heals furniture and lighting range

to create a classic style with a fresh, modern twist, says Simon

Moxey of Moxey Associates.

Burberry has expanded its global flagship at 121 Regent

Street in London to create an exclusive area for gifting.

The new space also features an all-day cafe that offers an

entirely British menu.

The gifting area houses a seasonally updated collection

of gifts created for the store alongside an assortment of

existing products centred around home, stationery and

travel items. Gifts can be personalised in a number of ways

including embroidery and leather embossing performed by

hand by skilled craftsmen based in the store. Items can be

wrapped at stations located within the space, with a wide

selection of exclusive printed and solid ribbons available

for customers to choose from, as well as personalised gift

cards from paper embossing machines in-store.

who designed the brands windows from

1955 through to 1994.

The area included a bench under a

beautiful magnolia tree a prominent motif

in the stained glass masterworks of Louis

Comfort Tiffany, son of the companys

founder and a leading American designer

of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

A master engraver offered

complimentary hand engraving of Tiffany

jewellery purchased at Selfridges during

the run of the exhibition. Visitors could also

stop for a drink at Charlies and grab free

coffee and pretzels from a side cart.

Burberry opens cafe and gifting area at its Regent Street store

14

Windowshopping

Inspiring window displays from around the globe

OasisC Colour worked alongside Oasis to produce its international summer

scheme to support the retailers collaboration with the V&A Museum.

Prints in the Oasis V&A Collection were the teams inspiration for the

window scheme. To highlight the brands second collaboration of the

season with Gandys flip flops, along with the Gandys brothers Orphans

for Orphans charity, C Colour produced vintage-inspired printed

suitcases, which were used as in-store displays for the flip flops. For both

collaborations, C Colour produced and installed bespoke displays for

Argyll St, the brands flagship London store, in addition to the scheme

rolled out across all stores internationally.

DebenhamsPLANarama helped Debenhams add some neon details to illuminate its crisp

white window scheme. Each window had a different theme: White House

based around homewares, White Wash for washing, Great White for a holiday/

swimwear theme and White Noise where mannequins were adorned with lit-up

headphones. Sheets of MDF were CNC cut into basic shapes and outlines were

made with LED lighting.

See more window installations on the blog:

www.retail-focus.co.uk/blog

Pitti Uomo88At Pitti Uomo88 in Italy, a specialist in mens clothing and

accessories, Arte Vetrina Project worked on engaging both

visual and auditory senses, adding an auditory component to

strengthen the connection between what is heard and what

is seen. This interactive window display represents the male

line, giving a contemporary taste to Roy Rogers archive

and tradition.

GapGaps June hanging tees and colourful risers windows were

created by SFD and displayed in the retailers flagship

windows thoughout the USA. The coloured risers were

designed flat packed so they could then be assembled in

store. The large and graphic risers could hold the weight of

two mannequins and created impact in the scheme.

visual merchandising

15

visual merchandising

Window

Jack WillsC Colour produced this patriotic

window vinyl scheme for Jack Wills to

promote its Young Brits competition.

The vinyl was designed inhouse

and rolled out nationally to all of the

retailers UK locations, In addition

to the vinyl, the Jack Wills flagship

windows in Covent Garden and Soho

were hand-painted by the VM team

including a huge 8m-wide Union Jack

at the top of the Long Acre store.

SelfridgesAs part of Selfridges Work-It

campaign from April - June,

Propability created this

window based on what

children aspire to be when

theyre older. Selfridges

worked with a local school

where children created

designs in 2D, which illustrated

what their ambitions were.

Selfridges then selected the

designs for the window, and

Propability produced 3D

sculptures, with the companys

scenic artist replicating the

childrens original artwork.

Ben ShermanLucky Fox has collaborated on Ben

Shermans Brighton Rock theme,

inspired by the brands iconic roots

and a trip to the British seaside. The

collection captures the colour and

feel of a walk along the seafront, so

Lucky Fox loaded up on bespoke

printed deckchairs (lifted from one

of its shirt designs) and took them

down to the pebble beach installed

in each store window. Oversized

Brighton Pier backdrops and bespoke

seated mannequins completed the

scheme.

Vivienne WestwoodStudioXAG designed, produced and

installed this Mad Hatters Tea Party

scheme in Vivienne Westwoods

flagship Conduit Street store in

London. The windows celebrated the

150th anniversary of Lewis Carrolls

Alices Adventures in Wonderland,

and the launch of the new edition

with a cover redesigned by Dame

Vivienne Westwood.

POP

POPStop

CompanyMad About Design

ClientChristian Dior Parfums

Display titleMiss Dior & Dior Homme mall site

Sector Fragrance

LocationWestfield London

The briefMad About Design was commissioned by

Dior to design and build a site for Westfield

London with a main structure that can be

easily re-used and adapted for different

launches. The structure was made to

co-promote Miss Dior and Dior Homme

fragrances on a single site for a month-long

pop-up promotion with Boots.

The resultThe main tower unit housed four screens

playing the TV adverts and was surrounded

by black powder coated metal frames with

coloured LED lights inset in channels, and

illuminated Dior logos. Tables sat on each

corner of the site to encourage testing and

held a locked storage space for stock. All

elements were made in compliance with

health and safety regulation applicable in

shopping centres.

www.themadpeople.com

16

of the

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17

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Order your free copy today by calling SDEA on 01883 348911,

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an event by

THE ULTIMATERETAIL MEETING

21 23 sept. 2015

Pavilion 1

PARIS EXPO PORTE DE VERSAILLESFRANCE

NEW

Prepare your visit and download the apps

flix

The events E-Commerce Paris

and Digital(in)Store federate

35,000 players from e-commerce

and retail around tomorrows

major challenges!

2 EVENTS, 1 PLACE 600 participating companies

+ 250 Workshops

+ 30 Masterclass

2 Start-up Villages

10 Reference Awards including 1 start-up Rookie of the Year

Inside Paris Retail Week 4 exceptional Plenaries

The Facebook, Twitter, Google Academiese

The Awards ceremony - Sept. 21

A Careers Area

Hors Les Murs in Paris 2 store tours

Networking evening

Partner events

REQUEST YOURFREE BADGE ON: ECOMMERCEPARIS.COM

DIGITAL-IN-STORE-EVENT.COMPARIS, CAPITAL OF CONNECTED COMMERCE.

Join the community #ParisRetailWeek #ECP15 #DIS15

P R E S E N T S

Non-contractual inform

ation subject to change

AnnoncePressePRW_GB_210x297.indd 1 2/06/15 14:12:48

Q & A

19

The brands that built our cities

The mass movement of consumers from the high street to online

shopping has been well documented in recent years. One negative

effect of this and something that has affected everyone, not just the

retailers, is the lack of new retail landmarks that act as focal points

in our towns and cities.

The great department stores of the last century Harrods,

Selfridges, Liberty were the internet shopping innovations of

their day. They opened up a world of goods and products that

were previously unavailable, all under one roof. With the opening

of these huge stores there was a desire that they be built as

cathedrals to retailing, in buildings that befit their grand nature. In

order to introduce and market themselves to the consumer, retailers

created their own landmarks of architectural significance.

In recent years, consumerism and the ease of purchasing

goods from brands, both foreign and domestic, have subdued the

excitement of a new store coming to town. Twenty-five years ago,

the idea of Selfridges or Harvey Nichols opening in a city outside

of London would have been met with hysteria amongst shoppers,

and as such the stores buildings would have to be grand enough

to meet expectation. Just look at the space that Selfridges occupies

in Birminghams Bullring mall; its an interesting architectural

destination within its own right.

Today, new examples are few and far between. Retail tenants

to third party landlords have overtaken the desire for proprietary

property ownership. Our towns and cities are no longer individual

or recognisable. Anonymous retail schemes and shopping centres

have created a deluge of flat-pack high street stores, each as

indefinite as the next. Consumers can purchase any item they

desire online; they dont need to wait for a store to open near

them to make it convenient to purchase its goods. Building a city-

defining structure isnt required to introduce a retailer to a new

consumer base.

Whilst this is a sign of the times, a knock-on effect of the digital

revolution and a keenness from retailers to roll out uniform brand

messaging across all of their stores, it does feel to me as though

some level of community integration has been lost. The process of

branding through architecture created destinations, landmarks and

Karl

meeting points in a city. They formed part of everyday conversation

and gave areas of the country their own distinctive identity.

In the same way that todays technology companies have

entered our common vocabulary; with terms such as Googling

news or Facebooking someone, retailers cohesion with the

community used to integrate into language in a similar way.

The original Burton the Tailors created brand-defining exterior

architecture in every one of its city locations across the UK. The

instantly recognisable, richly decorated, white tiled faade put the company in the eye-line and mind of the population on a daily

basis. This message was so strong, that for men going to buy a new

suit, a new colloquialism to befit its elevated standing amongst

the community was born: going for a Burton. The relationship

between the individual and the high street is seen as less important

now, with fewer people shopping and working in city centres.

Convenience and efficiency has for the most part taken over any

sense of community engagement.

Thats not to say that retailers are no longer creating these

brand-defining spaces, its just that they are now often retained

as the home of a brand and housed within an existing space.

For example, when Abercrombie and Fitch took over Burlington

Gardens in London, it let consumers experience the history and

personality of the brand in a spatial and interactive way. It was

grand, boastful and privileged, but so is the brand.

Aside from social differences between then and now, planning

permission and laws relating to brown field sites in city centres has

often left retailers with little option than to adapt existing buildings

into shopping units. This may reduce their ability to build from

scratch, but it doesnt stop them leaving their own architectural

mark on a city. Apple set a precedent for expending large sums of

money, putting its flagship stores in iconic buildings. Whilst its not

creating something new, locations such as the Opera store in Paris

and 5th Avenue in New York have become modern landmarks in

their own right. Taking its minimalistic, clean-cut vision of luxury,

Apple has used swathes of glass and metal to modernise parts of

buildings, leaving little doubt in the mind of the consumer as to

which brand owns the shop.

This change throughout our city centres is just a by-product

of the times, but I do personally look around at buildings and

miss the architectural branding that once made them so instantly

recognisable. So, as you travel around new cities during your

summer sojourn, take a minute to look up and around you, to take

in the buildings that were once as recognisable as the brands they

were made for.

column

McKeever

Karl McKeever is creative director of visual merchandising

and brand delivery consultancy Visual Thinking.

Email Karl at [email protected]

20

TED BAKER + MOORE

project focus

Design: In-house and FormRoomOpening date: June 2015Size: 557 sq m

Commercial Street, London

Ted Baker & Moore is the brands latest store concept that is

designed to shine a light on the wider world of Ted Baker, nestled

in the heart of East London at 132 Commercial Street. Created

by the brands special projects team, the store plays host to Ted

Bakers full lifestyle offering, from spectacles to bicycles and

everything in-between.

The stores bespoke interior harks back to the era of industrial

manufacturing and market traders of east London. A mix of

concrete floors, breeze block walls and steel beams house six

lifestyle shopping areas in the open plan and minimal environment,

encouraging shoppers to browse the rails while sipping coffee. A

glowing ampersand greets customers into the warehouse space,

while a floor-to-ceiling digital window displays ever-evolving

bespoke content, highlighting the wide range of product available

to purchase in-store.

FormRoom was invited to originate ideas and create designs

based on an exciting brief. Communicating a distinctive aesthetic

to the Ted Baker customer, the scope of works by FormRoom

included both bespoke shopfit units and sculptural elements in the

footwear, eyewear and watch departments.

The Wall of Frame, an impactful installation of half-faced busts,

forms an eye-catching display unit for Ted Bakers eyewear range.

Customers are encouraged to interact with items by changing

the glasses on each face, whilst motorised elements such as the

mechanical cog, with attached mannequin legs, and conveyor

21

project focus

Commercial Street, London

belt transforms the brands footwear range into a 3D spectacle.

Customers can browse the brands timeless watches from a striking

illuminated cityscape display made out of acrylic and glass.

Shoppers can take advantage of refreshments in the form

of the Everbean Coffee Shop in-store, selling a range of coffees

including a selection of espresso blends and filter coffees created

with beans sourced from the best British roasteries.

Another new concept for Commercial Street is a partnership

with Quella to create a capsule collection of British, copper-plated

bicycles in three classic colours: navy blue, racing green and ruby

red. These new bicycles will be sold alongside Ted Bakers Raising

the Handlebars cycle-friendly collection.

The store also features Ted Baker Audio, a bespoke collection

of stylish audio products, crafted to appeal to all the senses and

embracing all the fashionable advances that modern technology

has to offer.

Other items stocked at Commercial Street include watches,

gifting and stationery, fragrances and jewellery.

Male customers can take advantage of the Grooming Room for

a shave and a host of treatments. The Beauty Spot offers an array

of nail treatments for ladies, as well as lash and brow maintenance.

The brand has created its first virtual store, based on the

Commercial Street site. The high resolution panoramic photography

software draws on three dimensional mapping and enables

the store to be a fully transactional online platform. Customers

worldwide will be able to experience this one-of-a-kind Ted Baker

shop by roaming around the space, picking up items to view in

closer detail and interact with their store surroundings.

Introducing Perspex NaturalsBringing Beauty to the Surface

- Inspired by the simple beauty of nature- Textured surface with the aesthetic appeal of stone- 6 standard colours- Hard wearing & ideal for the retail environment

For more information visit www.perspex.co.uk

Perspex is a registered trademark of Lucite International, a member of the Mitsubishi Rayon Group.

C

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Perspex Naturals Advert draft.pdf 10/17/2014 3:51:25 PM

23

project focus

Design: Househam Henderson Architects and Elemental DesignOpening date: June 2015Size: 300 sq m

THE CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANySeven Dials, London

The Cambridge Satchel Company opened

its first mens store in June, located in Seven

Dials, Covent Garden. The new concept

store, developed by Househam Henderson,

offers gents the opportunity to shop the

brands accessories, under one roof, and

coincided with the launch of the brands

first full mens collection.

This site was the brands original

Covent Garden store, on Shorts Gardens,

prior to its opening of the bigger James

Street flagship.

All bespoke joinery, metalwork and

spray finishing throughout the store was

produced by Elemental Design at its

Brixton-based studios and manufacturing

workshops. Julie Deane, CEO and founder

of The Cambridge Satchel Company,

briefed Elemental Designs owner, Gary

Porter, explaining the origins of the brand

24

and its very British heritage as colourful,

confident and original. She wanted the

store to be an eclectic mix with an element

of discovery and intellect; a cool, urban,

modern mens boutique.

Elemental designed a quirky

environment, blending curiosity shop,

homely library and gentlemans club. The

store was divided into three spaces The

Front Room, The Reception and The

Conservatory. Nothing was structurally

changed and the original, dark, stone floor

was left the same. A mixed colour palette

of mustard yellow, muted mint green, pale

duck egg blue, rich oxblood, mid grey,

deep teal and ink black has been used

throughout. This was translated by Porters

local East Dulwich paint specialist, Colour

Makes People Happy, which created

bespoke colours for the project such as Hot

English Mustard and Old-school Satchel.

Adding to this, three wallpapers from

London interiors supplier, Andrew Martin,

provide richness and texture including a

Trompe Loeil bookcase design.

On entering the shop, the brightly

coloured Front Room has a welcoming

residential quality but in the simplistic

style of a theatre set, complete with a

bright mustard, faux-stone fireplace and

a false door. Homely yet tasteful objects,

sourced from vintage stores and markets,

as well as a few Graham & Green, Heals,

Conran, Matthew Williamson and Mineheart

accessories, give the room a stylish and

consistent personality; world-travelled and

quintessentially British.

Collections of brass instruments,

ceramic dogs or artists brushes allude to

the lifestyle of the Cambridge Satchel man.

Classic, English, mid-century Ladderax

shelving lines one wall and a high-level,

perimeter shelf is lined with faux, leather

book spines and knick-knacks you

might find in a pub. Mid-floor fixtures are

fashioned out of a mismatched grouping

of tables from various antique dealers,

sprayed in a high gloss grey standing on

a grey, over-dyed Persian rug. The visual

merchandising makes the product come

alive in an original way, using toolboxes,

travel trunks, board games, and even

dartboards to further communicate the

brands story.

The Reception area was designed

to provide a brand-enhancing lobby,

accommodating the cash desk. Here,

inspiration has been taken from The Wren

Library in Cambridge with its rhythmic rows

of shelving, wood panelling and marble

busts. Interpreting this, there are three rows

of modern shelving units, infinitely reflected

in mirror, with lacquered, mustard end

panels, with a hint of classic mouldings.

A nod to the white busts is found in a

small collection on the cash desk around

a Napoleon-bust table lamp and three

unusual pendant bust lights in the skylight.

The dominating feature in this area is a

large, arched faux window behind the desk

with a backlit vista of St Andrews College,

transporting the viewer to Cambridge.

Other walls in this area are covered in

framed prints; again diverse in their style,

they reflect an Englishmans hobbies and

interests, from fishing to fashion, and even

urban graffiti.

On entering the front door theres a

noticeable contrasting mood of the back

room, which features a luxurious oxblood

focal wall and rug, alongside picture lights

that illuminate four intriguing canvases,

and a very different quality of light from

the recessed skylight. The skylight was

highlighted by framing it in a relief frieze,

almost gothic, but in a contemporary

CNC-cut style. Elemental Design named

this The Conservatory but theres no sign of

plants. Its more the kind of conservatory

associated with schooling, or a place to

conserve. Here, we educate, inform and

interact, says Porter.

The story of leatherworking, and the

making of the bags, is found in a traditional

museum cabinet. Swatches of different

leathers invite the customer to touch and

compare. Most importantly, this room

also homes the embossing station, where

shoppers can have their items personalised.

A long Chesterfield sofa makes the wait very

comfortable, amongst wall-to-wall satchels.

Quirky pieces like the upcycled grandfather

clock and mischievous monkey lights keep

visitors entertained.

project focus

2015-06 Retail Focusemb.indd 1 26/06/2015 12:47:04

26

NICKELODEON

project focus

Design: Entertainment Retail Enterprises and Smart DesignOpening date: May 2015Size: 418 sq m

Leicester Square, London

Nickelodeon has opened its first flagship store in Europe at

1 Leicester Square, London. With a 116 sq m glass frontage, the store

offers a great brand building opportunity while offering a one-of-a-

kind Nickelodeon experience and personal touch points with fans

from around the world.

The spirit of the store holds true with the Nickelodeon mission

to create surprising and playful experiences. It also represents a

great benchmark for the creation of future flagship locations in

global territories, explains Clare Wallace, store director at The

Nickelodeon Store.

The site spans two floors and more than 418 sq m, offering

children and families the opportunity to experience and interact

with one of the worlds leading childrens brands as well as much

loved properties including SpongeBob SquarePants, Teenage

Mutant Ninja Turtles and Dora the Explorer. The store is bursting

with technology and interactive elements, including state-of-the-

art multi-media elements and more than 40 LCD screens create

a compelling showcase for the Nickelodeon brand and key

properties.

This is one of the only places in the world where all these

properties are represented in one place. There are more than

800 different items across all categories with over 80 per cent

of the assortment customised exclusively for The Nickelodeon

Store and not available elsewhere. The Leicester Square store

features merchandise collections created exclusively for London,

27

project focus

explains Wallace.

There are unique interactive elements including the Pineapple

iPad bar and simple activities like colouring opportunities

underneath the Dora Tree. And dont be surprised if you run into

SpongeBob posing for photographs with customers in the store.

A green slime staircase takes shoppers up to Bikini Bottom

where they can come face to face with SpongeBob SquarePants

in daily meet and greets. Additionally the store offers a pre-school

zone, a New York City skyline graffiti-decorated Teenage Mutant

Ninja Turtle area and Union Jack-branded gifting, stationery,

apparel, homeware and souvenirs.

Teething problems during the design process included

the location specifically the age of the building and the

structure itself. That took a lot of work, rework, recalibration and

modification. Because of some of the structural challenges and

spatial limitations we had to modify some of the design and

interactive elements to fit the space. But it worked and initial

customer response is all positive. That is one of our key measures,

continues Wallace.

To date, Nickelodeon and Summit Retail International have

opened five stores in Panama, Saudi Arabia (2014) and Honduras

(February 2015), with more stores scheduled for late 2015/2016.

29

Theres no denying that beauty is big business. The sector

remained extremely buoyant even through the worst of the

economic crisis. However, its also hugely competitive and over

recent years there has been an explosion in the number of new

brands entering the market along with a myriad of specialist

online retailers.

In a sector where loyalty is hard won, this means theres a

constant battle to achieve stand out, even for the most established

brands and retailers, says Colin Chapman, operations director at

CJ Retail Solutions. Yet all too often a consumer will go into store

and find there are no testers available a sure fire way of losing a

sale or that the much hyped new product launch they have seen

in a magazine is not even there. This simply isnt good enough.

Within this fiercely competitive sector, display compliance, both

during installation and long-term, is crucial. New launches, the life

blood of many cosmetics brands, have to be seamlessly executed

across all channels, including in store.

Lighting is a proven method of achieving differentiation, notes

Chapman, attracting consumers to fixtures and elevating ranges to

a premium positioning, with a shift to LED lighting in recent years.

He also suggests integrating digital POS into displays,

meaning that more indepth information about products can be

communicated something that can be invaluable for highlighting

USPs and educating shoppers about key ingredients. In addition,

digital POS solutions, such as Radio Frequency Identification and

touch screen displays, make shopping interactive, exciting and

interesting for customers guaranteed to make a brand or retailer

stand out from the competition.

Technology is widely used to capture data about the customer

to monitor their purchasing patterns, and to tailor science to

individual customers needs. Working recently with Geneu,

Elemental Design learnt that its the first beauty brand to offer

in-store DNA testing, in order to totally personalise skincare. The

design of retail spaces, or displays for beauty brands like these,

borders on the clinical or medical, and the designer can be limited

to minimalist, white/monochrome themes, explains Gary Porter,

founding director of Elemental Design. Theres no link here to

beautiful environments, or the glamour of fashion; the design can

be somewhat cold and sterile. These environments require testing

stations, private consultation pods, scientific equipment and

abundant computer/LED screens.

In stark contrast he says its the fragrance brands that celebrate

colour and drama, and the theatrical lengths they go to to

attract the shopper are especially evident in the pop-up sites in

department stores. My experience is, its actually the department

stores, like Selfridges, that are driving this trend. The demand for

genuinely creative, in-store experiential environments is growing, as

the stores realise this is what truly sets them apart, from the online

shopping market, says Porter.

Engaging customers is the ultimate goal and, especially in

London, the shopper needs an element of novelty. Something

In the fiercely competitive sector of beauty retail, achieving stand out is key. Cue a host of beauty hall revamps, pop-ups and digital POS.

SKIN DEEP: BEAUTY RETAIL

Above: Barber Design created a high-end boutique

environment in Richmond for LA Muscle to showcase

its nutritional supplements.

beauty retail

30

beauty retail

interactive or digital that they havent come across before is most

likely to stop them and get their attention, believes Porter. He says

in these usually very competitive environments, where each brand is

vying for the customer, its frequently the use of technology that will

win. We used something called Pufferfish projection for Lancme,

which is a completely spherical ball screen containing internal

projectors. Moreover, its touch sensitive and allows the viewer to

brush aside one layer of content to reveal another below. Lancme

was promoting eye shadows, and while we used mostly content that

had been shot in a studio, we were also able to upload footage

of the customer, in real time, and delight them with images of their

own freshly applied eye make-up, explains Porter

Its one thing designing a concession for a single brand but

a whole other area of specialisation to allow multiple brands to

feature in a space they share with their competitors, says Michael

Sheridan, chairman and founder of Sheridan&Co. Designing an

interior that provides a platform for multiple brands is demanding

but also crucial in a sense of setting the scene and providing an

environment where customers are prepared to shop and discuss

the intimacy of their beauty. Ambience is a definitive constituent

and within that lighting is key to ensure not just brands but the

products are clearly visible and able to emphasise what is often the

subtlety of different shades. Overall, layout is essential to make sure

there is visibility and to emphasise the range and choice of brands

on offer.

There are quite a few differences between fashion and beauty

that affect interior design. Firstly, the size of the product is very

different; cosmetics products are very small and usually presented

around types, lipsticks, blushers etc. or parts of the face lips, eyes

etc. The emphasis is on getting customers to try the product in

a sense of what artistry or technique in application is right for

individual customers. Whereas a garment is pretty much a yes or

a no around quality, style and fit. In terms of display, a garment

speaks for itself whereas beauty products need more explanation

either in words of through images of someone made-up. Customer

journey is a key aspect of beauty, knowing where to go depending

on a customers needs is key, continues Sheridan.

Emma Dicks, insights director at creative shopper marketing

agency HRG UK, says beauty retail can be a cluttered and

confusing category. Not only is product trial a key part of the

shoppers decision-making process, but finding ways to reaffirm

brand equity and capture shopper imaginations through eye-

catching displays is also vital. I dont necessarily think that

shoppers are researching products in-store like they used to do.

Instead, they are entering a store with much more education about

what product they want and why beauty bloggers/vloggers have

made such a huge impact online in introducing new products to

consumers, notes Dicks.

Naturally, beauty retail is a sector with such a strong focus on

the visual focus. As such its one where only 100 per cent perfection

will do. But for some beauty brands, its increasingly less about the

creative and more about the materials used, says Dicks. Obviously

premium materials are key, but also the sustainability of those

materials and the kind of chemicals and products being displayed

on them need to be a consideration, to ensure the materials are

actually satisfactory to use; for instance, how ingredients naturally

found in some perfumes could affect the materials specified.

You also need to consider the dust created by shoppers

constantly testing powders, and the effect that that could have on

the unit. Dicks also says consider the lighting being used on the

unit, as this can be critical when demonstrating colour and shade

to shoppers. The ambient lighting can change the colour of items,

which could be an issue for shoppers trying to match colours.

For Amuse Beauty Studio at Sydney Airport, Portland worked

with LS travel retail Pacific to design a scheme for customers who

From top: Virgile + Partners concept for House of

Elemis in Mayfair evokes an intimate residential

approach; Sheridan&Co provided the interior design

for Feel Unique in Guernsey; Portland worked on the

design of AMUSE Beauty Studio at Sydney Airport.

see beauty as personal and seek opportunities to explore the latest

beauty trends. Our aim was to create a beauty experience that

supports customers to playfully explore the world of beauty. The

Amuse design immerses customers in imaginative and interactive

beauty stories where they can explore and experiment with looks

and styles. The concept of a studio is used as the key platform to

deliver this exploration experience to customers, explains Lewis

Allen, director of environments at Portland. He continues: Intense

bursts of colour set against dark gloss finishes provide an energetic

and dynamic feel while lighting features running through the studio

31

beauty retail

travel retail, but in response to the consumer its become very much

more personal, honest and exciting.

When designing beauty retail environments, the consumer is

at the forefront of the designers mind. The perception of age,

for example, is now a mindset not a date of birth, and how we

communicate with the consumer and the tone of voice will change.

Words like anti-aging will no longer be seen on packaging, and

the packaging itself will be simpler, and the environment needs to

respond accordingly, believes Jackson.

House of Elemis in Mayfair has received a makeover. Virgile

+ Partners created an intimate residential atmosphere, with the

feeling of being in the House of the brand. The space combines

the ambiance of Bond Street luxury with the young spirit and

accessibility of contemporary brands. The combination of retail and

spa treatments, sometimes compromised in a department store

situation due to their restrictions and use of space, is liberated here,

creating an experience that combines beauty and science, the two

components of the offer, making it more experiential and personal.

Its designed to appeal to women and men alike through a

contemporary and elegant design, that has an inherent British

quality without the usual clichs. A mix of timber and parquet floors

with a soft neutral but warm colour palette enhance the presence

of the product rather than compete with it.

Transparency and glow, both inherent in the quality of the

skin, were important in the scheme, always playing with light and

soft reflections in the presence of the backlit skin membrane that

creates the signature background to the product display. Pattern,

textures and sculptural forms are also present in the furniture

design such as in the playful central interactive bar and the

greeting reception table.

For the new LA Muscle Boutique in Richmond, Barber Design

created a high-end boutique environment, breaking away from

conventional and cluttered supplement stores. The store is all

about the customer experience with the highlight on educating its

clients about supplements and not overloading the customer with

miscellaneous and irrelevant information. Through this technique

the customer is encouraged to enter into a consultation with the

in-store experts and be recommended products tailored to their

needs. Each product is displayed on individually designed plinths

highlighted with lighting to make each product stand out. Another

unique part of the experience includes the bespoke designed

sleek muscle bar where customers will be able to sample and learn

how to use its supplements. A gold framed LED video wall towards

the back of the store showcases LA Muscles Active Channel to help

customers interact with the brand.

Voisins, the largest department store in Jersey, has recently

given its beauty hall a revamp with the help of Umbrella Design.

David Elliott, business development director at Voisins, had a clear

brief to drive exclusivity and further cement the stores position

as the premier shopping destination on Jersey. Our job was to

reimagine a space that would persuade exciting new brands to

make the island their home, whilst convincing brands that were

already there to make Voisins their flaghip presence, explains

Mark Fanthorpe, founder of Umbrella. It was an exercise in space

planning and ergonomic design. Working with David Elliott and

Gerald Voisin, we stripped away everything that didnt work and

evolved what remained, so it delivered a beautiful showcase

that performed commercially. We set about reorganising the

brand journey and improving sightlines by widening the aisles

and removing obstructions. After all, if the shopper cant see

your product, they cant buy it. The Voisins beauty department

demonstrates that you dont have to spend a fortune to produce

something that drives growth. Sometimes its a case of intelligently

moving things around, so that you fully tap the potential of what

youve got.

are reminiscent of catwalk fashion shows, emphasising the finger

on the pulse approach to the world of beauty. Exploration is

encouraged in a number of ways.

Gregor Jackson, partner at gpstudio, has a number of beauty

retail projects keeping his studio busy, including new designs

for the Shinsegae beauty hall in Korea, the Avanti beauty floor in

Jeddah and a Laure beauty and frangrance boutique in Ryadh.

Jackson says: Beauty retail was once presented very much like

Below from top: Este Lauder global travel retail

installation by HRG; For Lancme, Elemental Design

used Pufferfish projection, a completely spherical

ball screen that contains internal projectors;

gpstudios concept for Shinsegae beauty hall in

Korea; Voisins new beauty department created by

Umbrella Design.

Spring/Summer 2015

Fashion on Show

NewsResourceful VMBarthelmess Vision 2015

Brand exhibitions

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty - Romantic Nationalism Gallery

Nouveau Edit

Skye

Jersey Girl

Collection L Jersey Boy

Jersey Kids

Nouveau

[email protected]

020 8752 2520 panachedisplay.co.uk

Cover image:

Alexander McQueen:

Savage Beauty - Romantic

Nationalism Gallery

47

Welcome to the summer edition of VM Focus. On P37 you can catch up with the latest news from the VM industry. Gemma Balmford takes a look at the role of fashion exhibitions on pages 39-40 and finds

out what makes fashion-themed exhibitions such a hit with the public.

Banana Republics recent Think Outside The Bottle scheme was a great source of inspiration for our resourceful

VM article on pages 45-46, proving that the use of recycled items can create a real talking point in windows. The

brand is currently undergoing a completely new way of thinking, and it will be interesting to see what window

schemes it develops over the coming months.

Paul Symes, head of visual presentation at Fortnum & Mason, shares his thoughts on how stores and windows

are returning to theatrical showcases. As each week goes by, I see more and more shops realising that a great

window display not only entices potential customers into the shop to spend their cash, but can do wonders for

the brands identity, says Symes. The more clever, better presented the display, the more the store gets noticed

and mentioned; whether that be in casual conversation or online through avenues such as Instagram.

Lyndsey Dennis

Editor

EditorLyndsey Dennis


t. +44 (0)7500 138 810

Production & WebTerry Clark


t. +44 (0)845 680 7405

Display SalesLee Cullumbine


t. +44 (0)845 680 7405

37News 45 Reuse and Recycle: Resourceful VM

39 Fashion on Show: Brand exhibitions

37 News The latest news from the visual merchandising and

display industry.

39 Fashion on Show: Brand exhibitions The rising allure of the fashion exhibition.

42 Barthelmess Vision 2015 Highlights from the Barthelmess Vision 2015 event in

Barcelona.

45 Reuse and Recycle: Resourceful VM Keeping costs down without compromising on visual

appeal.

52 Opinion Paul Symes, head of visual presentation at Fortnum and

Mason, discusses how stores and windows are returning

to theatrical showcases.

Welcome

www.retail-focus.co.uk

35

52 Opinion

42 Barthelmess Vision 2015

37

news

Following on from Bonaveris launch of

the Aloof female Schlppi mannequin, the

company has launched a male equivalent

called Noble.

Sculptor Marco Furlani, who was

involved with the Aloof collection, has

worked in the Bonaveri studio exploring

shapes for Noble that honour his female

counterpart and provide it with its own

strong sense of individuality.

Bonaveri joined forces with award-

winning British menswear designer Lee

Roach and artist Filippo Maria on a

site-specific installation during London

Bonaveri launches Noble male Schlppi collection

Entries are open for the 11th VM & Display

Awards, which take place on 19 November

2015 at a new venue, the Bloomsbury Big

Top in London. You can enter online via

www.vmanddisplay.com and can enter as

many projects from 1 August 2014 - 1 August

2015 in as many categories as you like. The

deadline for entries is 14 August 2015.

For table or ticket enquiries please contact

the awards team on T: 01945 420 068 or

E: [email protected]

COMPONENTS is the latest range of

male and female mannequins with

interchangeable details to be launched by

proportion>london.

In direct contrast to the fast-paced

nature of fashion and retail (where

everything has a life of only one season),

heirlooming is an intelligent design

movement gradually gaining momentum in

the world of VM. Aware of the very practical

Sarah Bailey and Jonathan Baker,

course directors at London College

of Fashion, have launched Portugese

and Spanish versions of their Visual

Merchandising for Fashion book

at ISEM Fashion Business School

in Madrid. It leads the reader from

the initial design process through to

product handling and experimentation,

supporting and enabling conceptual

thinking while developing and

communicating visual ideas creatively

and professionally.

Visual Merchandising for Fashion book launched

Photographer: Charles Moriarty

Entries open for VM & Display Awards

Collections Men to launch the new

mannequin collection.

Noble is available in five core poses

and like the Aloof collection is available in

mirrored positions for versatile groupings.

He is available in plain standing, standing

astride, walking and seated poses with

various head and arm configurations.

need for mass production combined

with the desire for elite product,

proportion>london created COMPONENTS

to be humble in style yet genius in design.

The simple repeat positioned bodies

are the mass produced part, while the

head, arms and hands can be lavished

with more expensive and artisanal detail

to create individual looks.

proportion>london unveils COMPONENTS range

NOBLE NEW MALE COLLECTION

ww

w.b

onav

eri.c

om

Blue Studio Trading LtdUnit 8A. The Piper Building.Peterborough Road, London. SW6 3EFT: 020 7394 2813 E: [email protected] W: www.blue-studio.co.uk

39

Since opening in March, the highly

anticipated Alexander McQueen: Savage

Beauty exhibition at Londons V&A Museum

has attracted close to 300,000 visitors. The

exhibition web pages have been viewed

more than 2.1 million times and the Museum

of Savage Beauty web feature, which gives

an insight into the techniques, inspiration

and stories behind 27 of the objects on

display, has been seen some 128,000

times. Expanding on the original version

of the show at the Metropolitan Museum

of Art, New York in 2011, Savage Beauty is,

in fact, one of the most ambitious fashion

exhibitions the V&A has ever staged.

And its not the first time a fashion

exhibition has attracted a large audience.

In 2012, a retrospective celebrating 20 years

of French shoe designer Christian Louboutin

at Londons Design Museum drew record

crowds, while The Fashion World of Jean

Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the

Catwalk has enticed more than a million

visitors on its international tour. So, what is it

that makes fashion-themed exhibitions such

a hit with the public?

People are responding to the

enticement of glamour connected with

fashion, says Sonnet Stanfill, fashion

curator at the V&A. Although we all wear

clothes, the element of fantasy offered by

high fashion transcends the pedestrian

and everyday functionality of clothing. Well

curated exhibitions of fashion highlight

elements of craftsmanship, of showmanship

and of creative inspiration that extend

beyond the ordinary.

Just as Lee Alexander McQueen studied

the V&As public collections of tailoring,

painting, art, photography and books as

inspiration for his visionary work, designers

and other creatives have visited Savage

Beauty for visual stimulation and inspiration.

Each section of the exhibition - the first and

largest retrospective of the late designers

work to be presented in Europe - captures

the essence of McQueens provocative,

dramatic and extravagant catwalk

presentations, through installation, music

and film.

Savage Beauty is a celebration of the

most imaginative and talented designer

of our time, says Sarah Burton, creative

director at Alexander McQueen. Lee was

Text: Gemma Balmford

FASHION ON SHOW

Alexander McQueen:

Savage Beauty exhibition.

Installation view of

Romantic Primitivism

gallery at the Victoria and

Albert Museum, London.

fashion exhibitions

The rising allure of the fashion exhibition

a genius and a true visionary who pushed

boundaries, challenged and inspired. He

believed in creativity and innovation, and

his talent was limitless.

For Christian Louboutins first UK

exhibition, design agency Household was

tasked with creating a show experience

that celebrated the designers 20 years

of design and captured the artistry and

theatricality of his craft.

Designer brands have a creative and

craft story to tell that positively sets them

apart from the high street and, in turn,

justifies the higher price tag and explains

the force behind the brand, says Michelle

Du-Prt, customer experience director

at Household Design. Given the tactility

of fashion, telling this story in a living,

breathing space plays to the richer qualities

of designer brands.

Designers are viewed by their

collections and are in a constant state of

40

fashion exhibitions

next, adds Du-Prt. Curating a body

of work that embraces achievements well

beyond the collection is something not

often seen and creates an entirely new

dimension to what filters through to the

shopper and the shop floor.

Essentially, fashion exhibitions make

luxury brands accessible to a wider group

of people. Its escapism into an exclusive

are able to buy into the brand, he says.

Possibly the most successful exhibitions are

from those brands which have a story to tell

through a long history and a substantial

archive to show.

With the Salvatore Ferragamo museum

in Florence, the Fondazione Prada in Milan

and the new Louis Vuitton Foundation in

Paris, Du-Prt anticipates more brands

opening galleries and museums in the

future to showcase the history and heritage

of the labels. The question is, she says, are

further fashion brands just going to do more

of the same, or is there an opportunity to do

something different?

From left top to bottom right:

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

exhibition. Installation view of the

Romantic Exoticism gallery and

London gallery at the Victoria and

Albert Museum, London; French

shoe designer Christian Louboutin

collaborated with Household Design for

his retrospective at the Design Museum;

Fashion-themed exhibitions reflect the

changing nature of society and public

interest in fashion-related subjects, says

Tanya Reynolds of mannequin company

proportion>london, which has been

involved in a number of exhibitions,

including Hello my name is Paul Smith

at the Design Museum.

world, claims Du-Prt.

Jonathan Baker, course director

at London College of Fashion and VM

consultant, agrees that such events help

to demystify the brand, which by the

very nature of their exclusivity appear

intimidating to most. Although brands dont

always attract customers immediately after

these events, they may have initiated a few

of them who have turned up out of curiosity

but may become customers as soon as they

Life on Foot is a current exhibition at Londons Design Museum,

marking the 40 year anniversary of Spanish footwear brand,

Camper. Open until November, the exhibition uses some of the

brands most recognisable styles as lenses through which to

explore the design, manufacturing and history of the independent

family run business.

Taking visitors from the design studios in Mallorca to high-

tech mass production facilities in the Far East, and onto shop

floors across the globe, the exhibition includes recreations of retail

spaces designed by Nendo, Jaime Hayon, and Kengo Kuma, as

well as interviews with company founder Lorenzo Fluxa and creative

director Romain Kremer, and previously unseen material from the

companys archives.

Camper worked with Universal Design Studio to create an

exhibition that illustrates how the company has grown from humble

beginnings to become a global shoe brand. It was imperative that

the exhibition should also convey Campers distinct attitude that

prevails through all of their outputs - characteristics of lightness,

play and humour, with a focus on the role of the unexpected,

positioning Camper as the non-conformist, comment Hannah

Carter Owers and Jason Holley of Universal Design Studio.

For the cost of an exhibition ticket, people can now enjoy a

rich and engaging cultural experience courtesy of their favourite

fashion house, say Carter Owers and Holley on the rise of fashion

exhibitions. [Luxury fashion brands] invest heavily in the arts

and the universes they create are fascinating. In terms of product,

the brands remain unobtainable for many because of price point,

which creates a certain allure.

Life on Foot

Image: Life on Foot at Londons Design Museum marks the 40th anniversary of Spanish footwear brand, Camper. Image credit: Jill Tate

THE ORIGINAL

CELEBRATING 40 YEARS IN BUSINESS

56 PAGE CATALOGUE ON REQUEST

URBAN VINTAGE RETAIL DISPLAY

The Urban Vintage collection from Andy Thornton includes a complete

range of industrial-style retail display products including shelving units,

garment rails, drawer units, cabinets, trolleys and display tables,

plus furniture, decorative lighting and tin tiles.

Send for your copy.

Call: 01422 376000 Email: [email protected]

Online: andythornton.com

AT-RetailFocus-2015-June2015.indd 1 29/06/2015 16:19

42

Barthelmess Vision 2015

Barthelmess Group once again hosted

its annual international future congress

VISION in June. This year, around 70 visual

marketing experts met in Barcelonas

impressive W Hotel. Successful trade

concepts, challenges of the future,

perspectives, innovation and, in particular,

intensive networking were the main focus.

The main part of the event took place in

the cultural centre of El Born (El Born Centre

Cultural), the archaeological site of the

district. Within this setting, speakers from the

fields of architecture, visual merchandising,

research and economy offered participants

completely different perspectives and

numerous insights into the present and

exciting views of the future.

Visual merchandising consultant,

Grald Grare opened the programme

and took the participants from Barcelona

to Tokyo. Using numerous examples, he

illustrated the Japanese consumer and

lifestyle mentality and compared it to that of

European consumers. He also highlighted

the influence of fashion and architecture on

store concepts and visual merchandising

against this cultural and sociological

background.

The paper given by future and

innovation expert Stephan Jung provided

a thorough look into the future and

opened up perspectives for potentials and

opportunities, trends and new approaches

in the field of trade. He introduced seven

innovative strategies for significantly

increasing sales, profit and customer

satisfaction. Using easily-implementable

best practice examples, his theories can

easily be adapted to the daily work of all

of us.

The keynote address was delivered

by consultant Dr Christian Mikunda, the

founder of strategic retail dramaturgy.

He dealt with the importance of staged

locations for getting customers full

attention, arousing good feelings in them

and extending their dwell time at the

BARTHELMESS VISION 2015Highlights from the Barthelmess VISION 2015 event in Barcelona last month.

POS. In his lecture, which was tailored

to the specific individual needs of the

participants, Dr Mikunda explained

the psychological mechanisms behind

professionally created experiences. His

fascinating system is based on seven

feelings of elation Glory, Joy, Power,

Bravura, Desire, Intensity and Chill and

symbolises what consumers really want to

experience: culture at the highest emotional

level, experiences of nature that change

our lives, life-style scenarios in which

commodities are connected with real and

profound experiences. Based on many

examples from Barcelona, he showed how

consumers can be offered this welcome

seduction.

Dr Mikunda subsequently took

participants in small groups on a tour

around selected retail outlets in Barcelona

calling, amongst other places, at Jaime

Beriestain, Replay, Vincon, Magnolia Antic,

Cortana and Coqutte and conveying, in

an entertaining and tangible way, the

dramaturgy and staging of the shops.

The third day was reserved for making

further forays, exchanging views and

personal networking. In small groups,

the participants evaluated various store

concepts on the basis of their newly-

acquired knowledge and from new

perspectives.

Next year, Barthelmess Groups

VISION 2016 will prepare the ground for an

international visual marketing network and

inspire participants with new visions, trends,

innovations and interesting speakers.

For further information call Barthelmess UK

on 01438 724 605. www.barthelmessuk.com

vision &Experts in Christmas Design and Production

Christmas Factory

Global Manufacturing and Logistics

CNL bespoke designed Mannequins and Forms

Decorado off the shelf decor and props

e: [email protected] t: 01438 318634 - 724065

www.barthelmessuk.com

BarthelmessUK

inspiration

established nam

e.

fresh ideas.

V2_July_2015.indd 1 08/07/2015 12:08

harlequin-design.com

twitter.com/HarlequinLondonfacebook.com/harlequindesignlondon

+44(0)20 7253 6238

Harlequin Design (London) Ltd.4th Floor 26/27 Great Sutton Street,London EC1V 0DS

Retail concepts.Window designs.Instore environments.Prototyping.Prop sourcing.Global production.Logistics.Distribution.Installation.

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Harlequin Ad.pdf 24/6/15 13:28:34

45

Making a statement doesnt have to be expensive. Theres no harm

in being clever with budgets and creating inspiring displays by

recycling items and reusing props, mannequins and fittings.

Banana Republic recently made a sustainable statement

with its Think Outside The Bottle windows. The beach was the

inspiration behind a series of installations in its windows, starting in

America and then implemented in the UK. Cardboard boxes were

crafted into waves and the sun, while recycled bottles were used

to litter the retailers windows rather than beaches. A portion of

the savings from the window displays will be donated to the Nature

Conservancy for research and preservation of oceans and beaches

along the California coastline.

The beach inspiration of the collection inspired Banana

Republic to think more about environmental awareness; not trying

to solve issues but bringing awareness, beginning a conversation

and taking small steps to improve, explains Sianne Meekcoms,

senior account manager at Harlequin Design that worked on the

scheme. Banana Republic has a new way of thinking: Everywhere

we look we see a new way of thinking about how we take care

of our earth. We were inspired to do something too, by recycling,

reusing and saving energy in our windows. Its one small step, and

were just getting started. Using bottles and cardboard made great

use of items available locally that would otherwise go to waste and

created a compelling story.

Meekcoms believes resourceful VM is a great idea: This

scheme shows that getting creative with what is freely available

works well. Its great to get local VM teams involved more and as

the window displays sometimes live for only a few weeks, another

benefit is that recycling keeps costs down.

Selfridges currently has a window also filled with recycled

bottles to promote its ongoing Project Ocean work, a partnership

between the store and The Zoological Society of London to stop

overfishing and pollution and protect our oceans through the

creation of marine reserves.

Carl Smallshaw, senior business development manager at

Visual Thinking and former store design project manager for

George, shares Meekcoms passion for resourceful VM. Im all for

innovative ideas and forward thinking, but there is also no shame

in rescuing old fixtures and fittings, freshening them up and giving

them a new purpose, he says.

Something that Visual Thinking did for Creature Company on

the latest series of Alex Polizzi The Fixer on BBC2. As part of the

makeover, Visual Thinkings team suggested upcycling many of

the original fittings as a great way to improve the visual impact

of interior design, merchandising and displays whilst keeping

renovation costs to a minimum a key consideration for almost

every small, independent retailer. A new service desk was made out

of reclaimed furniture to complement the kitsch 1950s design theme,

whilst smaller display tables were used to create impactful focal

points for featured products.

Whilst recycling and, more recently, up-cycling are seen to

be a current trend, in reality a good VM scheme has always had

a keen eye for turning something unloved into the proverbial silk

purse, with visual merchandisers often conscious that there may be

something that could be salvaged, refurbished and worked into

a new window scheme, continues Smallshaw. Reclaimed crates

REUSE AND RECYCLE: RESOURCEFUL VM

Above: Banana Republic windows by Harlequin Design.

Below: Arty Wigs offers mannequin renovations and repairs.

resourceful VM

Keeping costs down without compromising on visual appeal.

Photographer: Melvyn Vincent

46

resourceful VM

used as shelving, old sewing tables deployed as focal points,

charming vintage props recycling and up-cycling VM equipment

is not only on trend, but also an imaginative way to create a more

immersive, experiential retail experience that encourages shoppers

to lift their heads and rediscover the delights of instore.

Smallshaw says resourcefulness is often second nature but its

imperative that teams are aware of product life cycles, developing

material trends, environmental targets and their own companys

green agenda.

Another great example is the latest store concept by Wickes. A

total of 95 per cent of the store, including timber used for display

elements, such as primary display fixturing, focal points and

browsing and tools tables, is made from and using materials and

products shoppers can buy instore. As well as being resourceful, it

delivers a retail environment that is truly authentic and connected

with the brand.

Being ethical is still a way a brand can achieve differentiation

and a unique selling point, believes Jonathan Baker, course

director at London College of Fashion and VM consultant. Visual

merchandising design can have a unique role in providing

solutions which could address the global problem. While Im not

suggesting that a brand simply design a green theme, eco window

or create props from old tyres and recycled paper, its worth looking

further indepth at these areas. Visual merchandising is only one

small albeit crucial cog in the retail and design world but it does

nonetheless need a sustainability philosophy to be a part of this,

which is currently only being explored in a limited way.

Baker says sustainability can be approached in three

main areas: social, economic and environmental. Good

visual merchandising design is good business, communicates

additional messages to the consumer, promotes choice and

brand identification, facilitates sales and of course is part of the

shopping experience. However, multiple resources are wasted in

this process unnecessarily. We are increasingly breeding a new

type of customer who will scrutinise everything we do in visual

merchandising and retail design for its environmental impact and

sustainability and therefore this is worth consideration. Steps to

recognise the benefits of building a sustainable growth strategy

should begin at the VM design stage and include the store

build and architecture as well as the micro visual merchandising

elements such as fixtures, mannequins and props, says Baker.

He acknowledges Banana Republics recent scheme, as well

as Pharrel Williams collaboration with G-star; very interesting as

the product has been made from recycled plastic which was found

in the sea. The scheme was only really a large graphic so not

particularly interesting but the idea is amazing.

Lucky Foxs recent scheme for Levis Customisation collection

had resourcefulness in mind. All of the collection was displayed in

modular plywood trunks and cases that were re-purposed from a

press day the team had built for Levis earlier in the year.

With the high street continuing to be a competitive and

challenging landscape, a lot of our clients are looking for ways

to make their VM schemes more resourceful by reusing as many

parts of their schemes as possible, explains Jason Traves, head

of creative at Lucky Fox. The lifespan of a VM scheme is now an

important consideration for many retailers, who will cleverly invest in

creative for their flagship stores that is generic enough to be filtered

down to other stores or instore schemes. This is not only resourceful

but also economical.

Traves says many big brands now have a corporate

responsibility in regards to the sustainability of all of their

companys activity, including their VM creative. Whether that be a

focus on using recycled materials or brands being more mindful of

the carbon footprint of the materials they use in a VM scheme.

Were also seeing large retailers scaling back their window

creative to be more resourceful. Cos Stores recent sale windows

are a beautiful example of how to achieve simple yet effective

creative. Using basic shelving lined with a row of plants, set against

a simple sale decal backdrop, the windows show that retailers dont

need to spend a lot of money on their creative, notes Traves.

Global Display spent two years researching the most suitable

materials and processes to create stylish and elegant designs

with sustainable and environmentally responsible credentials. The

Eco range of mannequins is of comparable strength and cost to

equivalent glass fibre ones. Eco was launched in Woolworths stores

in South Africa in July 2014

retail focus magazine july 2015

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