STUDY OF PROFILES OF KHADI & HANDLOOM ORGANISATIONS AND CASE

STUDIES OF WEAVERS OF A.P.

SARVANI VADDI and Prof .B.BALAKRISHNAIAH

The results of the present research study were organized into the following

sections.

QUALITATIVE DATA

1 Profiles of Khadi institutions

2 Profiles of Handloom centers

3 Case studies of weavers

This helped to understand the present scenario of the Khadi and Handloom

industry of, Andhra Pradesh, India.

*Saroornagar

*Chowtuppal

*Metpalli

*Wavilal

*Gadwal

*Nagarkurnool

*Vanaparthi

*Dharmavarm(2)

*Banaganapalli

*Guntur Hq.

*Ponduru

*Proddatur

*Kurnool Hq.

FIGURE 4 : KHADI CENTERS

*Pochampally *Koyalagudem

*Chowtuppal

*Proddatur

*Madhavaram

*Kothakota*Rajoli

*Ija

*Dharmavaram

*Yemmiganur

*Mangalagiri

*Venkatagiri

*Ponduru

*Narayanapet

*Chirala

FIGURE 5 : HANDLOOM CENTERS

*Thadipatri

*Kalahasti

*Sirisilla

*Aleru

*Pedana

*Uppada

Ibrahimpatnam*

SECTION I:

1 PROFILES OF KHADI CENTERS OF ANDHRA PRADESH

All the profiles of the Khadi institutions under study were presented under the

following headings.

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KHADI PROFILE-I: BHAGYANAGAR KHADI SAMITHI

Introduction: The Bhagyanagar Khadi Samithi was certified Khadi institution

established in the year 1969 A.D. to undertake Khadi and village industries activities

in the background districts of Nalgonda, Ranga Reddy, Medak, Mahaboobnagar and

Hyderabad with the main objective of providing employment to the people living

below poverty line. It was founded by the Late Pujya Swami Ramanand Tirtha under

the chairmanship of former Prime Minister Sri P.V.Narasimha Rao. The Samithi

consists of 15 members as board of trustees who are in associated with Gandhian

propagation, social welfare work and renowned freedom fighters. There are twelve

(12) employees , working on monthly salary, at the main office located in

saroornagar and two thousand (2000) spinners and weavers . This institution was

categorized under ‘A’ category by CKVI , based on its overall performance.

Production: The Bhagyanagar Samithi had been responsible to set up 58

NMC/Charkha units, five (5) polyvastra units, cotton processing plant, New Model

Charkha (NMC)/ servicing unit, bleaching unit, soap unit, oil expeller unit, oil ghani

unit (cluster program), agarbathi unit . The location of cotton processing and village

industries units are at samithi’s complex , Roshan Bagh, Saroor nagar, Hyderabad.

There are two types of Charkhas working for the samithi. The first one is old model 6

spindle charkha. A total of 1456 such charkhas are in use. The second type is new

model 8 spindle charkha (NMC). A total of 300 NMCs are working for samithi.

Under Revamped public distribution system (RPDS) a total of 225 NMCs were also

given to the samithi members.

Cotton Khadi: - This Samithi maintains three (3) production centers namely

Khadi karyalaya-Medak, Khadi karyalaya-Nalgonda, Khadi karyalaya-Ibrahim

patnam, operating 32 NMC charkha units, each unit consists of 25 charkhas. The

Samithi has got a team of 500 traditional weavers who have got vast experience in the

production of fabric in Single Thread (ST), Double Thread (DT), Tie and Dye,

Pochampally Sarees, Napkins and Towels.

Cotton processing plant: - The cotton processing plant known as carding unit

was located at Saroornagar where pre-spinning activity like opening of cotton bales,

carding and drawing sliver takes place. The drawing sliver is being supplied to

artisans engaged in the rural areas. The installed capacity of carding unit was

54,771 Kgs per annum with a view to ensure best quality of drawing to be given to

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artisans. The Samithi installed a simplex machine with the KVIC financial assistance

in the year 1996-97 and also undertaken the job-works of other Khadi institutions.

Polyvastra Khadi: - It has five units to produce Polyvastra Khadi. The raw

materials of Polyvastra Khadi have been obtained from KVI C central sliver plants.

Silk Khadi: - The Samithi has introduced in 1995-96 Silk Khadi production

of Tie and Dye Pochampally Sarees, which is in high demand in the country.

Products: Cotton Khadi fabric in Single Thread (ST), Double Thread (DT) for

Shirting and Trousers respectively, Khadi denim, Tie and Dye Pochampally Sarees,

Dhotis,Lungis, Hand Kerchiefs, Napkins, Towels in checks, polyvastra (P/C 67/33)

fabric for pyjamas and shirtings and also kalamkari bed sheets.

Marketing Channels: This institution has established marketing network

through twelve marketing retail Khadi Bhandars at different districts of the state. A

total of four (4) units each at Nalgonda, Medak and twin cities of Hyderabad and

Secunderabad are retailing for the samithi. Khadi Vastralaya of Saroornagar is the

center for wholesale. All the procurements or purchases were made by this Vastralaya

and products are sent to marketing at Khadi bhandars.

KHADI PROFILE-II: LAKSHMI SILK REELING, TWISTING, WEAVING

INDUSTRIAL CO-OP SOCIETY LTD., CHOWTUPPAL, NALGONDA Dt.

Introduction: Lakshmi Silk Reeling, Twisting, Weaving Industrial Co-Op

Society Ltd. Started its production as a unit of Khadi Board in the year 1988 A.D. and

got recognized by Khadi and Village Industries Commission in the financial year

1991-92 A.D. with loan liabilities of Rs. 4,41,902/-. Central certification committee of

Kaiser Bagh, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, certified this on 14th January 2000 as validity

of Khadi Certificate No. AP/3967. Renewal of Khadi certificate of this unit for the

period of 2001-2006 A.D. was forwarded. The unit started with 12 members. At

present there are 15 Twisters, 30 Weavers and 20 Reelers co-operating with the

society. The office is held by 8 staff members. It is a medium sized institution

catergorised under ‘B’ category by CKVI based on its performance.

Raw Material: Cocoons are brought from Tirumalgiri Government Cocoons

Market of Secunderabad. When cocoons are not available, yarn is purchased from

Khadi Silk Board licensed by Khadi Board. As per the cost chart of the commission,

Cocoons cost Rs. 130/- per Kilogram. 20-25% of weight loss would be there while

reeling the cocoons. After reeling, 6 yarns of silk are twisted together to be used for

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weaving. The twisting is followed by dyeing process. Usually, bleached yarn is given

to the weavers to be used for the ikat products.

Production: Production centers are located in Narayanapuram, Puttapaka,

Chowtuppal, Gattuppal and Gundurampally. The production capacity of silk khadi

reelig is 10 basis and silk khadi twisting is of 15 spindles.Weavers are given the raw

material, the silk yarn, dyes. Also advance of Rs. 10,000/- and payment for the coolie

is given to the weavers. In tie and dye or ikat technique, chances are there for 40%

defects in the final products. Value of production is Rs.70 lakhs per annum

Products: single ikat pochampally patola sarees, Silk Khadi sarees,dress

materials, shirtings, cotton/silk ikat material yardages.

Marketing: Retail was stopped as the Khadi Bandar was closed in the year

1999 A.D. as sufficient wholesale is there and no risk is involved in the wholesale.

After discount, the institution is able to make 15% profit. But the payment is received

only after 5 years especially from Khadi Gramodhyog Bhavan of Chennai.

The president was of the opinion that weavers are also cheating the society in

spite of so many welfare schemes being offered by the Commission. They take 1500

grams of yarn and sell it in the market and get cheap quality yarn for weaving. Also,

he was of the opinion that, if the product turns out to be of good quality ikat with a

correct matching of design, then the weavers are selling that product to private

retailers, master weavers or to the consumers visiting them. And get back the

defective or low quality ikat to handover to the society.

KHADI PROFILE-III : METPALLI KHADI GRAMODHYOG

PRATISTHAN, METPALLI, KARIMNAGAR Dt.

Introduction:This institution, Metpalli Khadi Gramodhyog Pratisthan, formed

from the division of the Hyderbad Khadi Samithi during the State reorganization in

the year 1967 A.D. Sri. P.V.Narasimha Rao, former prime minister of India was the

chairman of the society. It is a very active institution categorized under ‘A+’ category

by CKVI based on its performance.

Production: The society has production spread at four districts of the state

namely Karimnagar, Nizamabad, Warangal and Khammam districts. There are more

than thousand weavers who are employed under this institution.

Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Silk Khadi, Towels, Dhotis, Lungis,

Khadi Sarees, Dress Material Yardages, Hand Kerchiefs and Durries.

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Marketing: The marketing is through the state Khadi Bhandars located at

various districts of Andhra Pradesh state. The products are also available at the

certified khadi bhandars at 10 states of India. The total production of the institution is

Rs.108 lakhs of which Rs. 56.33 lakhs are earned from retail sales and Rs.82.14 lakhs

from wholesales.

KHADI PROFILE-IV : WAVILAL KHADI GRAMODHYOG PRATISTHAN,

WAVILALA, KARIMNAGAR DISTRICT

Introduction: It was the year 1929 A.D., they were the days of freedom fight.

Under the leadership of Mahatma Gandhi Indians in every corner of India were united

against on the Foreign rule. Let it be the Government or let it be the clothes. The

greatest visionary of Indian history Mahatma Gandhi was leading India towards

freedom. Freedom and independence from Western life style-for a better tomorrow,

for India to be self sufficient and a strong nation. He wanted the change to start from

rural India. So, he stressed on wearing hand spun and hand woven Khadi and making

products of Village Industries a part of our lives. Thus, strengthening the economy of

rural Indian which is the backbone of independent India.

In year 1929A.D. two of Gandhiji’s disciples, Sri Annasahab Sahasra Buddhe

and Sri Krishnadas Jaju carried on an extensive Survey of the Telengana region and

fixed Metpally and Wavilal as production Center in association with All India

Spinners Association, Maharastra Branch. Till 1934 A.D. it was run by Maharastra

Branch and later was attached to Hyderabad Branch. Sri Annasaheb Sahasra Buddhe

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& Sri Dwarakanadh Leliji has taken great interest in making Wavilal one of the

largest production centers of Khadi in India.

The Samstha was involved not only in the production of Khadi but may other

programs to inspire the people to be politically and socially active. Karyakarthas were

involved in educating people by running schools, educating them about cleanliness

and good health habits. In 1950 A.D. All India Spinners Association was dissolved

and under Sri Ramanand Tirth as Chairman, Hyderabad Khadi Samithi was formed. It

included 16 districts which were under Nizam State at that time. The great dedication

and execution of the dynamic karyakarthas soon lead Metpally and Wavilal to be two

of the largest manufacturing centers of Khadi.

Many employees of Khadi board and other industrial centers used to be sent to

Wavilal for practical experience. The Hyderabad Khadi Samithi was divided into

Bhagyanagar Khadi Samithi (Hyderabad) and Metpally Khadi Khadi Gramodyog

Pratisthan (Metpally) during the state re-organization in 1967 A.D. Sri P.V.

Narasimha Rao became the Chairman of Metpally Khadi Gramodyog Pratisithan

which has production spread in Karimnagar, Nizambad, Warangal and Khammam

Districts. As the Samstha Prospered in all areas the necessity for one more division

arised for better organization and in 1983 A.D. Wavilal got separated and became

Wavilal Khadi Gramodyog Pratishthan. It is a very active institution categorized

under ‘A+’ category by CKVI based on its performance.

Since three years the member-secretary of the institution is interested in

developing retail sales. Now the institution reached to production of 250 crores and

1.40 crores retail sales per annum providing employment to 2750 people

approximately.

Production: The production of Khadi is spread in Karimnagar, Adilabad,

Warangal, Khammam and Krishna Districts. Wavilal, Mogullapally, Gagillapur and

there are major centers of production. There are around 750 Weavers who are being

employed under the Samstha. Under the able guidance of leadership and in the hands

of skilled and dedicated workmen the Samstha has been progressing rapidly with the

production reaching Rs.2 crores per annum.

Products: The institution is undertaking production and sale of cotton Khadi,

silk khadi and polyvastra.

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Marketing: Wavilal Khadi Gramodyog pratisthan had 17 retail outlets located

at Hyderabad Karimnagar Warangal Adilabad Krishna districts of Andhra Pradesh.To

reach the customer in villages and bring more awareness of Khadi the institution is

organizing Exhibition sales also.

Wavilal Khadi is famous for its quality and purity throughout India. Many

National level leaders know Wavial Khadi by name the products are available in

KVIC Certified Khadi Bhandars in Maharastra, Karnataka, Madhya Pradesh,

Rajasthan, Haryana, Delhi, Himachal Pradesh, Jammu & Kashmir Tamilnadu and

Kerala.

KHADI PROFILE-V :THE GADWAL TALUK KHADI GRAMODHYOG

SANGH, GADWAL, MAHABOOBNAGAR Dt.

Introduction: Gadwal was famously known for its handloom industry from

ancient times. In India, Gadwal is the birth place for its Zari fabrics. During 1930

A.D., Mahatma Gandhi identified Gadwal as the potential center for the development

of Khadi industry. He placed his disciples Sri Jajuji and Sri Hanumanth Rao to survey

the situation at Gadwal for its suitability to introduce Khadi. In 1931 A.D. ‘All India

Spinners Association’ was formed at Gadwal. Since the state Andhra Pradesh was not

yet formed at that time, Gadwall was part of Raichur, today a district of Karnataka

state. During the Khadi movement, two female spinners from Harijan community

namely Rosamma from Gadwal and Karremma from Pudur were invited by Gandhiji

to sevagram and were trained to expertise in Khadi spinning. Their performance was

highly appreciated and certified by Srimathi Vijayalakshmi Pandit, Srimati Sarojioni

Devi, Sri Govind Vallbh Pandit and others.It was in the year 1951 A.D. that the All

India Spinners Association, Karnataka Gram Seva Sangh was established by Dr. G.S.

Melkote, as president at Raichur town. Gadwal Samstha existed as a part of it. This is

a decentralized institution from Karnataka Gram Seva Sangham, Raichur registered

during the year 1971 A.D.

In the year 1956 A.D., when Andhra Pradesh formed as a separate state,

Gadwal being included in it. “Gadwal Taluka Khadi Gramodhyog Sangham” was

registered as a separate independent society. Since then the production increased and

it provided employment to 300 people. The main functions include, Khadi Spinning,

weaving, bleaching of kora Khadi cloth. A total of Rs.50 lakhs property is under this

unit. It includes two buildings, a silk spinning and weaving unit, a new model charkha

(NMC) unit, low quality spinning unit at Anantapur, Muslin Khadi spinning and

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weaving unit at Ieeja and a spinning unit at Uttanur. At present there are 15 artisans

working under this institution. It is a medium institution categorized under ‘A’

category.

Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Silk Khadi.

Marketing: They had wholesale and retail sales through Khadi bhandars.

Retailing at Gadwal, Mahaboobnagar and Hyderabad. The Bhandar at Hyderabad was

destroyed by the municipal authorities, referring it as the old building in dilapidation

condition. This caused further difficulties in running the institution.

KHADI PROFILE-VI :GRAMADHAN NIRMAN SAMITHI,

NAGARKURNOOL,MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT

Introduction: The society was registered in the year 1960 A.D. and started its

production from the year 1992 A.D. onwards. This institution was directly owned by

CKVI with 1.5 lakh production and with one workshed having two working looms.

Only two families are employed under the society. It was categorized in ‘A+’

category by CKVI based on its overall performance.

Raw Material: The cotton was obtained from Rakonda, spinning at

Namidipalli and New Model Charkha (NMC) units are sponsored by District Rural

Development Organisation (DRDO).

Production: The actual production of the institutionis about 24-25 meters of

Kalamkari printing on fabric. Kalamkari printing is done at Pedanna and Gollapalem.

Bleaching of the fabrics is carried out at Bhuvangiri.

Products: Kalamkari printed fabric, Cotton Muslin, Polyvastra, Silk Khadi.

Marketing: The institution has both wholesale and retail sales. Actual

production of cotton Khadi amounts to Rs.2.01 lakhs but the institution earns

Rs. 2.01 lakhs through retail and Rs.6.78 lakhs through wholesale by stocking the

goods produced by other institutions.

KHADI PROFILE-VII : KHADI GRAMA PARISRAMALA SANGHAM,

DHARMAVARAM, ANANTAPUR DISTRICT

Introduction:The Khadi Grama Parisramala Sangham was established in the

year1971A.D. Under the commissioner for Khadi and Village Industries with 10 staff

members and 100 artisan weavers working for the society. The Secretary is

V.Ramudu. It was a silk Khadi institution. It is a medium institution categorized under

‘A’ category.

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Production: weaving centre was at Dharmavaram with 70 weavers producing

varieties of silk sarees and Tadiparti with 30 weavers producing varieties of silk

shirting materials, Towels and Dhotis. Cocoons are purchased at the rate of Rs.130

per kilogram and degumming is done by private people charging Rs. 70 per kilogram.

From 10.5 kilograms of cocoon only 1 kilogram of yarn is obtained with 9.5%

wastage. Designs were given by G.S.Chakravarthi who is having 16 years of

experience in weaving. Based on colours and design orders were placed for which

production was carried out. 99% quality was checked at the center only.

Products: Silk Sarees woven with 4’ to 9’ border and pallavs decorated with

jacquard design with blouse available in dark bright, light and shaded colours, plain

silk sarees and silk shirting materials, Dhotis, Towels.

Marketing: Retail outlet at Dharmavaram and wholesale through CKVI to

various institutions. Orders are obtained from Mumbai VT retail outlet and from New

Delhi. Total turnover is 1.5 crores and 10% of sales from retail. Defective goods are

sold through clearance sales with upto 75% reduction.

Complaints about colour fading and zari defects are received from consumers

through institutions. In those cases replacement was done where they are allowed to

purchase any other item of equal worth. Rebate amount was not cleared in time which

causes trouble. They were of the opinion that provident fund of 12% should be given

to weavers and other artisans. They requested for old-age pension to artisans from the

age of 50 years if they have at least 10 years experience in the activity.

KHADI PROFILE-VIII : RESHAM KHADI GRAMODHYOG SANGHAM,

DHARMAVARAM, ANANTAPUR DISTRICT

Introduction: It was a directly aided institution of CKVI. Raw materials were

obtained through CKVI and also directly from private vendors when demand was not

met by CKVI. It was a medium institution categorized under ‘A’ category.

Production: All the weavers were highly skilled. The Dharmavaram silk

sarees are on par with Kanjeevaram sarees of TamilNadu.

Products: Silk sarees with Zari buta, border, pallav and matching blouse,

plain silk sarees with blouse, silk pavada or lehangas with blouse.

Marketing: There was high demand for Dharmavaram sarees. But,

Dharmavaram Khadi silks were highly priced than the Dharmavaram handloom silk

sarees so do the price.

KHADI PROFILE-IX : GRAMA SWARAJ SANGHAM, KURNOOL

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Introduction: The institution was formed during the year 1952 A.D.with

more than 1500 member weavers and spinners. The institution is a directly aided

institution of CKVI. It is a medium institution categorized under ‘A’ category.

Raw Material: the raw material of cotton roving is supplied to the spinners

which are spun and chintelu (spools) are handed over to the institution. The weavers

are given the cotton yarn of 40s, 60s and 80s other necessary raw materials like the zari

and the design details.

Production: There are framelooms as well as pitlooms working in this

institution. Charkha spinning is also taken up as a household activity by the women of

non-weaving class and yarn is exchanged for sarees of their choice.

Products: Muslin Khadi, Cotton Khadi, Cotton Durries, Bed Sheets, Towels,

Dhotis, Lungis and Cotton Sarees with Zari borders

Marketing: The institution is having both wholesale and retailing through

Khadi bhandars.

KHADI PROFILE-X : SREE SEETHARAMA KHADI GRAMODHYOG

SANGH, GOPALPET, WANAPARTHI, MAHABOOBNAGAR.

Introduction: It was registered in the year 1987 A.D. and the production work

started in the year 1989 A.D. It was directly listed by CKVI during the year 1990-91

A.D. Though it is CKVI owned institution, the financial support is obtained both from

CKVI and DRDA. 52 Lakhs were obtained from CKVI and DRDA sanctioned an

amount of 6 Lakhs. It is performing activities in its own building with 18 staff

members. A total of 175 spinners and 30 artisan weavers are working under this

institution.The institution is categorized under‘A’

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Cotton Sliver is obtained from ‘Central Silver Plant’ of KVIC located at

Chitradurga. Spinners use this silver to make Khadi yarn of 20S count. Weavers are

production Khadi fabric of single thread (ST) and double thread (DT) varieties.

Dyeing of the fabrics is one from Erode.

The speciality of this institution is that, they supply/market their fabrics to

fabricate Government organizations and staff especially to the Railway department.

The agreement between this institution and Railway department was through tenders

obtained through marketing section of KVIC Mumbai, production accounting to 35

Lakhs is supplied to Railway department.

Production: The weavers are paid Rs.4.25 per meter. They earn nearly

Rs.60/0 per day. For Spinner Re.1/- is paid per hank. Daily they earn nearly Rs.20/-

25 per person. All the spinners are ladies in this institution.

Products: The varieties supplied to Government organizations are Khaki

cloth for Railway Drivers uniform, Blue cloth for Railway Mechanics uniforms, Red

cloth for Railway Malis uniform, Green flag cloth used by railway signal men, White

cloth used in Air Conditioned coaches of trains, Pillow covers, curtain cloth used in

Air Conditioned coaches of trains, Dusters for Mechanics and Towels.

Marketing: Before supplying to railway department ISI stamping is done.

The payment is received through KVIC within 15 days from the date of delivery.

There are eight institutions in Kurnool that supply products costing to 3 Crores to

Railway department. They are located in Banagampally, Gooty, Kurnool,

Mahaboobnagar and Koilkuntla. This institution has retailing also. Various products

are purchased from other institutions for retailing purpose in their two retail outlets

located at Hyderabad and Vanaparti. The total sales accounts to 6 Lakhs per annum

through retailing and 35 Lakhs per annum through wholesales. Rebate of 20% from

CKVI and 5% from institution is provided on sales seasonally.

The retailing was also done with counter sales. At times the consignment /

stock get rejected by the Railway department due to quality constraints. Such stock

was tie and dyed and was sold through retailing.

Publicity was given through Eenadu daily news paper during the rebate

season. Advertisements were also given through “Vishwajyothi” and local city cables.

Pamphlets are supplied through daily news papers during rebate season. They had

also participated in Swadeshi Mela, DWCRA Bazaar and industrial exhibitions.

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Kurnool district one among 125 districts selected under DRDA. Spinners are

trained jointly with TRYSEM projects, working wages and stipend of Rs.350 per

month is paid during training period.The institution pays 10% artisan benefit fund to

the weavers for marriages and other occasions, etc., 10% is paid as bed sheets every

year to the artisan weavers and spinners as incentive wage. It was observed that the

artisan weavers also work agriculture labours. So continuously is not there in the

service. Muslims (minority communities) were also found working as spinners in this

institution.

The Secretary belonged to Komara community and was founder member of

this institution who retired as supervisor in CKVI. He established this institution and

developed it. They were of the opinion that State Government should give support to

the KVIC institutions. They were worried that Bankers also stopped providing loans

as security cannot be provided by the institution. Also, they helplessly stated that

every year working capital was facing a downfall.

KHADI PROFILE-XI : A. F. KHADDAR KHADI SANGHAM, PONDUR,

SRIKAKAULUM DISTRICT

Introduction: This is directly aided institution under the regional office of

Visakhapatnam. Pondur is famous for its finest Khadi yarn and fabrics. The clothing

are elegant dignified giving a significant and appealing look, for the persons wearing

it. During the swadeshi movement, these fabrics were very much liked by the

congressmen and therefore created a lot of demand in the market.

Even today the brand name ‘Pondur Khaddar’ fabrics have their own identity

and considered to be of the highest grade fabrics significant as symbolic uniform for

the political leaders. Finest grade of yarn of 100s and 120s count hand spun is

considered to be the brand identity of Ponduru. Wearing ponduru khadi clothings

dress is considered to be symbol of respect, dignity, high status and dignity. The

office constitutes of 30 salaried employees. The total number of spinner are 1098 of

which 1000 are traditional spinner 8 of them are working on NMC and 90 weavers.

Production: The spinning of cotton by hand into a very fine count yarn is the

world known skill of ponduru spinners. The cotton is combed using the bone of a fish.

This helps I separating each fire ad making them more parallel. From these fires very

fine count cotton yarn is spu through Gandhi charkhas and NMCs. It is a highly

skilled job. The total cloth production of cotton Khadi is of value Rs. 70.63 lakhs,

yarn production is Rs.1.12 lakhs, muslin Khadi production is of Rs.3.32 lakhs.

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Cocanadas- naturally coloured brownish /off white cotton is also used to spun khaddar

yarn.

Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Dhotis, Lungis, Angavastram ,

Sarees, Shirting Yardages, Towels, Hand Kerchiefs and Polyvastra.

Marketing: The institution markets their own production as well as sources

products from other institutions. The institution has both wholesale and retail through

its bhandars. The retail sales of cotton khadi are of value Rs. 40.12 lakhs, muslin

Khadi are of value Rs.2.58 lakhs, polyvastra is of value Rs. 4.44 lakhs and silk Khadi

is of value Rs. 4.25 lakhs.

KHADI PROFILE-XII : GRAMA SWARAJYA SANGHAM,

BANGANAPALLI , KURNOOL DISTRICT

Introduction:This institution was certified Khadi institution registered ad

directly listed by CKVI during the year 1967 A.D. It was a medium institution

categorized under ‘B’ category by CKVI. At present, the institution was having 271

artisans in weaving out of which 196 were women, 8 belong to SC/ST and 98 were

minority. And 371 artisans were in the preparatory activities.

Raw Materials: The roving was obtained from central sliver plant.

Production: Their present yarn production is around 3000 Kgs. on New

Model Charkhas. The production centers were placed at Banaganapalli, Koilkutla,

Kothapeta and nearby villages of Kurnool District.

Products: Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, Silk Khadi, Polyvastra, Shirting

material yardages and Dhotis.

Marketing: The marketing was mainly through wholesale amounting to

Rs.62.50 lakhs and retail sales were through Bhandars amounting to about

Rs. 6.5lakhs.

KHADI PROFILE-XIII : THE GUNTUR ZILLA KHADI GRAMODYOGA

SAMSTHA,GUNTUR DISTRICT.

Introduction: The Guntur Zilla Khadi Gramodhyog Samstha (GZKGS) was

Registered in the year 1860 A.D., certified by Khadi and village industries

commission, Mumbai though started functioning from 1971 A.D. with a small capital

of few Lakhs and stocks. The Guntur Zilla Khadi Gramodhyog Samstha (GZKGS)

was an old and reputed institution producing cotton Khadi and Muslin. The unique

feature of the institution was all the registered spinners, weavers, salaried staff and

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other workers including the members were members of the institution. It was a large

institution categorized under ‘A+’ category.

Rapid progress was made strictly following the certification rules laid down

by CKVI and attained a higher level of production. Today as many as 2060 persons

are employed regularly of which 1448 are spinners, 464 weavers, 50 dhobis and 95

regular salaried staff in various other activities including office and management.

Products: Cotton Yarn, Cotton Khadi, Muslin Khadi, polyvastra, silk Khadi,

Woollens.

Production: The Samstha at present has 12 Khadi Production and Sales Units,

One Scutcher and carding Unit, One Bleaching Unit, One Central Vastraghar at its

head quarter in Guntur and 10 Khadi Bhandar in and around Guntur. Wages are paid

according to cost chart laid by Khadi and Village Industries Commission.

This Samstha consists of 28 NMC Centers having New model Charkha (6/8

spindles) till 1994 -95 A.D. 6 spindle and then 8 spindles. 16 weaving centers,365 pits

looms in working condition out of 565, 6 spindle charkhas – 1100 working 625,12

spindle charkhas 100 working out of 100. The institution has the Polyvastra centre

located at Tadepalli and weaving centre at Illavaram. It was a very advanced

institution and performing well. The total production of cotton Khadi is of value

Rs.96.92 lakhs, polyvastra is Rs. 6.63 lakhs.

Marketing: The entire inventory is maintained through computers.

Production, Purchases from other institutions are sold through wholesale and Retail

sale of Cotton Khadi, muslin Khadi and Polyvastra.

It had 11 Sales centers in Rural area, 9 Sales centers in Urban area. The

institution purchases woollen Khadi and silk Khadi from other institutions and sell

through wholesale and retail sale. Hawking sales are observed from the nine sales

Bhandars of Districts Guntur, Prakasam, Krishna, Nellore and West Godavari.

The Institution enjoys favourable market, since the local environments are

such that 70% of local populations are habitual wearers of Khadi and spinning is

almost a hobby. At present the wholesale of cotton khadi is of value Rs.9.73 lakhs and

retail sales are of value 144.07 lakhs, the polyvastra whole sale is of 0.53 lakhs and

retail sales are Rs.14.77 lakhs, Silk Khadi wholesale amounts to Rs. 9.83 lakhs and

retail sales amounts to Rs. 49 lakhs and woolen Khadi wholesale amounts to 0.06

lakhs ad retail amounts to Rs.0.44 lakhs.

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In 1998 A.D. the institution was computerized with its own funds. They

introduced a highly customized, tailor-made software package for inventory

management and account management, which has been a successful operation for the

last five years. Khadi Gramodhyog Bhavan- Delhi, Gandhi Ashram-Lucknow,

Kolkotta bhavan and the bhavan at Ranchi are some of the organizations using the

software developed by this institution.

Spinners are given an identification number and code. With one press of a

button one could see how much spinners were earning month wise, along with their

artisan welfare deduction etc. In 2005 State Level Artisan Welfare and Pension Fund

has been established.Over 84,000 artisans will benefit from this fund and the

institution solely contributes to the fund. Also, had Employees children education

incentive, where in, at the levels of 10th, intermediate, and post graduation if the child

achieves a 1st class grade, will be eligible for an incentive of for Rs. 2000 for girl child

and Rs. 1500 for the boy will be awarded. This reveals high levels of transparency

and professionalism by the Institution.

KHADI PROFILE-XIV: BAPUJI KHADIRURAL DEVELOPMENT

ASSOCIATION, PRODDATUR, KADAPA DISTRICT

Introduction: This was a directly aided institution of CKVI consisting of 100

spinners and 58 weavers as members. At present there are only 28 active members in

the institution. It is categorized in the ‘C’ category by the CKVI.

Production: production of cotton Khadi is of value Rs.5.88 lakhs.

Products: Cotton Yarn, Muslin Khadi, Cotton Khadi Fabric, Towels and

Dhotis.

Marketing: The institution has only wholesale marketing. The wholesale of

cotton Khadi was of value Rs. 4.77 lakhs. The retail bhandars are inactive. Their

production is available in the Khadi bhandars of other institutions.

The secretary of the institution was of the opinion that, most of weavers

shifted to silk weaving and reeling activities. They prefer to work under master

weavers as it is fetching them more work and money.

4.2. PROFILES OF HANDLOOM CENTERS OF ANDHRA PRADESH

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER -I: POCHAMPALLY HANDLOOM

WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY LIMITED, POCHAMPALLY,

NALGONDA DISTRICT

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Introduction: The Pochampally handloom weavers’ co-operatative society

limited located at M.G.Road of Pochampally was established in the year 1955 A.D.

with 85 lakhs investment and 750 weavers as members. All the Government schemes

were implemented through the society. Pochampally registered its products and

techniques with World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), intellectual

property rights under Geographical indications category with the efforts made by

commissioner of handlooms and textiles and weavers’ service center, Andhra

Pradesh. Total of 15 members were holding the office. Membership fee of Rs. 50/-

was collected from the weavers. It was observed that, from past 6 years new members

are not joined since there is no work.

Production: Hank yarns and dyes were given to the weavers through National

Handloom Development Corporation. Mulberry Silk yarn is obtained from Karnataka

Silk Marketing Board (KSMB). Mulberry silk was given in grey form. Weavers have

to do the degumming process. Cotton yarn was obtained from Mumbai of count 40 s

and 80s. NHDC procures these yarns from different organizations through cash

transactions rather than credit.

Training was given by the weavers service centre in the jacquard weaving,

dyeing techniques to get various colour combinations and their usage in ikat

technique. Work is provided to them through the society and wages are paid as per the

government norms. A sum of Rs.1500/- to Rs.2000/- is paid per every eight (8) sarees.

Quality is checked by the production managers and if there is any damage it is

returned to the weavers. Also the yarn value is cut down from the final saree price.

Products: Silk Sarees , Mercerized cotton Sarees, Double cot bed sheets,

Single cot bed sheets, Furnishing fabric and Dress material yardages.

Marketing: They have both wholesale and retail sales through their own retail

outlet at pochampally. They also have the facility provided by the Government sales

outlets like APCO, Lepakshi, and Handloom House with a good price for their

products. Recently, they could bag the order of air hostess sarees for Air India and

supplied the stocks.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –II :CHOWTUPPAL HANDLOOM

WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY LIMITED, CHOWTUPPAL,

NALGONDA DISTRICT

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Introduction: The society was registered in the year 1966 A.D. with 460

members of which only 83 members, women constituting nearly 50%. Most of them

have fine weaving skills also expertise in preparatory process like scouring,

bleaching, tie and dye.

Raw material: The mulberry silk, cotton yarn, Surat tested zari and dyes are

supplied by National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) through the

society.

Production: The warp for 8 sarees is given to weavers through the society.

The plain weft is given which is tie and dyed by the weavers themselves. Some of the

weavers are also trained in natural dyeing by the weavers’ service center. Silk tie and

dye sarees with patola design are woven especially for the markets Gujarat and

Maharastra. Wages paid to the weavers are around Rs.1200/- to Rs.1500/- per eight

(8) sarees as per society norms.

Products: Pochampally Patola silk, mercerized cotton sarees, ikat dress

material yardages (2/80s), bed sheets, furnishing yardages (2/40s)

Marketing: The institute has both wholesale and retail sales through its own

sales outlet, APCO sales depots and handloom house. Consumers of near by villages

and cities also purchase directly from the weavers. There is also facility of ordering

the preferred designs directly with weavers.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –III : SRI RANGANAYAKULA

SWAMY SILK WEAVER’S CO-OPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALE

SOCIETY LIMITED, KADARBAD, PRODDATUR, KADAPAPA DISTRICT.

Introduction: Proddatur weavers were famous for weaving fine cotton sarees

of 100s and 120s. From past 15 years they got adopted to silk weaving due to the

development of sericulture in the neighbouring state Karnataka. Due to lack of

demand, with same skills of the weaver, when silk was woven, the wages paid were

high because of more market demand for silk products. Most of these weavers from

neighbouring villages like Thondaladinne, Kadarbad, Ooturu, Yamavaramu,

Cheppalli, Payasampalle migrated to Proddatur due to good transportation facilities

and better market.

Raw material: For warp filature yarn of 20-22 deniers 2 ply are used. Good

quality silk yarn is used for filature. Low quality silk is used as weft called dupion

yarn. For weft dupion silk yarn of 100 denier in single ply are used. The yarn is

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purchased from central silk board or from local yarn dealers. From the cacoon the

‘kaccha’ or the raw silk yarn is obtained. This kaccha was purchased which was given

‘puri’ or twisted. This twisted silk is degummed where 25-30% of weight loss occurs

leaving silk with a good luster. This was called ‘pecka’ which is dyed in different

colours. For 60 meters of silk fabrics 1550grams of silk Kaccha i.e. before

degumming is required as warp/ filature and 7 kilograms o dupio before degumming

is required.1160 grams for every meter of 44” width fabric i.e. approximately 95-100

grams per meter.

There are a large number of weavers who have left weaving profession and

eke-out their livelihood from reeling of silk yarn. Electric power is used for reeling,

twisting, warp beam spinning and bobbin winding.

Production: Weavers get raw materials from society.“Padugu” the warp and

“Pecka” the weft are given to them. The weavers have to weave according to the

design. They work on wage basis. Plain yardages of 44” shirting export quality, they

are paid Rs. 20/- per meter and for every colour Rs.1/- extra. The woven fabric has to

be handed over to the society and it is weighed and compared with the raw material

weight. The waste broken yarns are also to be handed over at the same time.

Products: Dupion silk cloth for furnishings weighing 170 grams per meter,

shirting of export quality weighing 90-95grams per meter, dress material yardages

weighing 90-95 grams per meter, Dharmavaram silk sarees.

Marketing: They have both wholesale as well as domestic retail sales and

also sell through APCO sales depots.

Master weavers of Proddatur

The master weavers are very active at Proddatur. These silk products have got

a very good export demand. Most of the business is through connected Bangalore city

which is nearby to Proddatur. The master weaver secures orders either from the

suppliers or exporters. The buyers give orders to traders. These traders in turn order to

suppliers also called master weavers. These master weavers get the fabric woven from

the weavers working for him. All the risk of investment is by the master weaver. And

if he is able to export successfully, he makes a large profit. Some of the weavers with

good education have turned into brokers or intermediaries, making their own share in

this supply chain.

Swatches of samples are maintained with a good number of latest designs,

colour palette. These swatches books are shown to the exporter through traders. Once

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the order is received, the master weavers get activated. Only 5-6% variation was

accepted in the colors. Fabric faults, colour variations and weaving defects are strictly

rejected. There was 5-10% chance of rejection. Rejected goods are sold for 60-70%

rate in the local market. For the actual price of Rs.200/- per meter, only Rs.120/- per

meter is priced in the local market. The losses have to be born by the master weaver.

Quality control measures are followed strictly. This is the only place where the

researcher observed the fabric inspection machine for inspecting the fabric faults.

Master Weavers employed appraisers who check the weavers’ work. Before

starting the bulk production, the samples are sent to SGS India Ltd.-Textile testing

laboratory of Bangalore, New Delhi. The samples are tested for their colour fastness

to light. MBTL method is used at consumer products laboratory services, SGS House,

Chennai. If the colourfastness rating is 4-5 it is accepted by the buyers and if it is 2-3

then the consignment is rejected. And it is important to note that all this process is

time bound. The master weaver invests Rs.75, 000/- per loom per three (3) months.

No retail orders are accepted.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –IV : MADHAVARAM HANDLOOM

WEAVERS’ CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, KADAPA DISTRICT

Introduction: There are more than eight nearby villages who get work from

Madhavaram handloom weavers’ co-operative society. The weavers in surrounding

villages visit the society once or twice in a month, take the orders, raw materials for

production and get back with woven goods

Production: The pitlooms are seen inside the houses of every weaver. The

dyed yarns are supplied to the weavers for subsidized prices from society. Also,

design inputs are given to them. Highly skilled weavers are seen in Madhavaram,

which is evident from the intricate designs, fineness in the weaving and folding of the

sarees.

Products: cotton sarees of fine count 100s, 120s with real or tested zari borders

and pallav woven with jacquard designs

Marketing: Both wholesale and retail marketing is observed. There is high

demand for Madhavaram sarees on par with Venkatagiri sarees of coastal Andhra due

to their comfort, designs and colours.

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PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –V : HANDLOOM WEAVERS’ CO-

OPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALES SOCIETY LIMITED, IJA ,

GADWAL, MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT

Introduction: It is located at Ija of Gadwal in Mahaboobnagar district. It was

established in the year 1951 A.D. under Directorate of Handloom, Hyderabad.

Financial help was obtained from district co-operative bank.

Through this society, various Government schemes are implemented like

product package scheme, implemented through assistant director; sub-office of

handloom directorate located at Mahaboobnagar district. Under this scheme one

hundred members (100) were given training for one month with a stipend of Rs. 900/-

per month. Already existing members were trained in alternative skills.

Raw material: Yarn is provided through APCO. 60% based on bill. If stock is

not available from APCO. Yarn is purchased from Adoni. Loan is taken from DCCB

Bank for procuring yarn on 11% interest. Dyeing is being done from Adoni,

Vijayawada, per every 5kgs of yarn dyeing Rs. 150/- is paid as dyeing charges and

Rs.50/- as bleaching charges. Sometimes dyed yarn is procured from Vijayawada,

from private people. All the necessary technical support is obtained from APCO.

Production: Looms were provided by Society to the weavers. Rs. 6000/- is

paid per frame loom used for the weaving of towels and Rs. 7000/- is paid per pit

loom with Dobby attachment used for the weaving of Gadwal Cotton Sarees. The

wages paid to the weavers differ between product varieties. The wages paid for Towel

of length 72/36 inch width is Rs.11/-, Towel of length 64/36 inch width is Rs.6.60 and

Towel of length 54/27 inch width is Rs.5.25.

It takes forty-five (45) minutes to one hour to weave one towel. Warping

charges are paid as specified by costing charge of APCO. When I visited the place

they got an order for the production of 1500 meters of Plain Polyester fabric of count

2/60 from APCO. The raw material was sent by APCO and they fixed wage of Rs.8/-

per meter and 9 percent profit for the Society. The zari is procured from Kurnool and

Gadwal. Silk is obtained from Bangalore. Cotton yarn of 80S count – Annapurna

variety is obtained from Vijayawada. All these raw materials are the essential

elements in the weaving of Gadwal Sarees. Characterized by cotton body, silk border

with sari brocade and pallav in silk and zari brocade. When I visited the place, the

weavers were undergoing training in the weaving of Gadwal sarees. The training was

given by the staff members of Weavers Service Centre, Hyderabad. It was observed

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that the weavers were not very skilled especially in the interlocking of the body cotton

yarn with the border silk yarn. Hence they needed training in order to improve the

quality of the saree.

Mostly the production is based on orders placed by Divisional Marketing

office of the Andhra Pradesh State Handloom Weavers Co-op. Society Limited,

Secunderabad. There were 15 women artisan weaver members in the society. The

Secretary of the Society states that women artisans maintain time schedule and

quality.

Products: At present this society is producing 1500 towels and Gadwal Saree

production was at stay as it requires high investment.

Marketing: Procuring officers of APCO come to procure the finished

products once in 2-3 months. Last visit was in August 2000 A.D. They give the

payment only after six (6) months.

Gadwal is the most commercialized handloom center with high number of

master weavers, skilled artisan weavers and well established marketing channels. It

was observed that the master weavers were also weavers but, they took the risk of

investing more money, employed coolie weavers working for them on daily wages

and started production of Gadwal sarees which have high demand in the market. The

work shed is found inside the house of the master weaver where 3 to 6 weavers were

weaving the sarees. The looms are three shuttle pit looms and jacquard looms which

are used to weave innovative designs locally called as “computer borders”. The cotton

yarns in the body of the Gadwal Saree is replaced by ‘Sico’ i.e. Synthetic Yarn and

Tussar Silk with intricate necklace designs in the body of the saree called Kalanjali

designs. Modern colour combinations, both light colours (called English colours

locally) dark traditional colours, mixtures of colour, i.e. warp and weft in different

colours giving a shaded effect were found.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –VI :KOTHAKOTA HANDLOOM

WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, KOTHAKOTA,

MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT

Introduction: The Kothakota Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative Society was

registered in the year 1954 A.D. with 124 weaver members, 20 staff members and 5

sales persons in the showroom. Through this society ‘State bank of India’ and

‘Andhra Bank’ gave Rs.8000/- per loom as working capital which activated the

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production. Andhra Pradesh State Finance Corporation gave assistance of Rs. 1 lakh

to member weavers of the society for constructing the house in the year 1990 A.D.

Raw materials and production: Silk sarees of 5.5 meters are woven with zari

borders and pallav. Warping for 5 sarees weighs around 1200 grams of silk, weft 550

grams, tussah weft weighs 600 grams and zari of 21/2 mark or 10 bobbins are used in

weaving. It takes two months to weave five sarees. Weaver’s wife or a child should

assist in weaving the borders of the saree. Hence, the earnings of Rs.1600/ are to be

counted per 2 persons per month. Dyeing workshop was conducted by weavers’

service centre, Hyderabad which helped them in using the dyeing process with

colorfast dyes.

Products: Specializes in Gadwal type sarees.

Marketing: The society had both wholesale and retail business through its

own retail outlet as well as through APCO sales depots.

There are a number of master weavers in Kothakota. Most of weavers work

for these master weavers. The activity of cooperative society is almost negligible

when compared to the business of master weavers in the market. The jacquard

attachments were given to the weavers by the master weaver and bind them to work

for him on wage basis. He supplies the raw material, paper designs, and punched

lattice to the weavers. Weavers have to complete the products within specified time

period.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –VII : RAJOLI HANDLOOM

WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALES SOCIETY

LTD.RAJOLI, MAHABOOBNAGAR DISTRICT

Introduction: Rajoli Handloom weavers’ co-operative society was

established in the year 1952 A.D. having 35 weaver members, 23 staff members and 5

sales persons in the showroom. The total turnover is Rs.1.10 Crores making Rs.6-7

lakhs profit per annum.

Raw material: The cotton yarn, tussah silk yarns, zari, dyes and chemicals are

supplied to the weaver through the society from NHDC at subsidized prices.

Production: The weavers who are skilled in weaving Gadwal type sarees

have to work throughout the year either from the society or from the master wavers.

This weaving technique requires a pitloom with a jacquard attachment to develop

various intricate designs with zari threads mostly used in the borders and pallav. The

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speciality of this weaving is that there are three(3) shuttles carrying three (3) weft

yarns, one interlacing the upper border, one the body and the third the lower border of

the saree. The intricate weavers of Gadwal are so popular that they are the fond

possessions of every women in Andhra Pradesh. The weavers of surrounding villages

have the frame loom who weaves the cotton towels, hand kerchiefs, Dhotis and

Lungis.

Products: Gadwal type sarees, Dhotis, Lungis, Towels and Hand Kerchiefs.

Marketing: They have both wholesale and retail through their own retail

outlet. And also sell through APCO and Handloom House.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –VIII : DHARMAVARAM,

ANATAPUR DISTRICT

Introduction: The cooperative societies were dormant though the market is

lucrative. The most popular, traditional weaving center, Dharmavaram with all the

functional activities is fully dominated by master weavers.

Production: The production was spread in and around Dharmavaram. Most of

the weavers of Tadipatri. Vepulaparthy, Yadiki, Peddapappur etc. The silk yarn, zari

were obtained from master weavers, private vendors.

Products: Pure Silk sarees with zari border, buta and pallav with matching

blouse, the Pavada or Lehangas with matching blouse from 0-12 sizes which can be

stitched from a year old baby girl to adolescent girl respectively, plain sarees with

blouse, plain dress materials. Designs are plain with buta, checks, and stripes,

necklace designs of Kalanjali or allover patterns. All the products were available in

pure silk or in tissue (all over zari). The borders range from 3’-8’ or more as per the

fashion. The products were seen in traditional dark colours with contrasting borders.

With the intervention of fashion designer a range of fashionable colour palette can be

found in Dharmavaram products.

Marketing: There were more than 300 master weavers in and around

Dharmavaram. There was both wholesale and retail for Dharmavaram products. Most

of the master weavers tie up with the retailers of cosmopolitan cities, supplier to

exporters. The distribution channels were well established with in and outside states.

The name of dharmavaram is spelled after the famous sarees of Kanjeevaram. Most of

the times Dharmavaram sarees were sold as Kanchi sarees though they have their own

identity.

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PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –IX : SARASWATHI HANDLOOM

WEAVERS COOPERATIVE SOCIETY, MANGALAGIRI, GUNTUR

DISTRICT

Introduction: Fine count cotton woven with real zari was the speciality of

Mangalagiri though today only tested zari is found with reduced fineness. In

Mangalagiri nearly 1617 weavers were under the cooperative fold and more than 3000

artisan weavers were working under the master weavers.

Production: The dyed cotton yarns were supplied to the weavers by the

master weavers as per the order. The design specifications are given to the weavers.

They have to weave with in the time limit without altering the specified quality and

design. The relative humidity in the atmosphere plays a very important role in

weaving these fin count cottons. Preparation of warp by starching these fine yarns,

separation and warp beam preparation is the real task which involves high grade of

skills.

Products: Cotton sarees (100s and 120s) with traditional pure zari border and

buta, sico sarees with zari border, cotton sarees with pure silk and zari border, shirting

material yardages, dress material yardages, Kalamkari printed on Mangalagiri

materials, dress sets, Kalamkari Dupattas, furnishing yardages, quilts, scarves, indigo

dyed fabrics, ready made shirts from Mangalagiri cotton fabrics. They are available in

solid and shaded colours.

Marketing: they have both wholesale and retail business. The mangalagiri

fabrics have got very high demand in the local, urban and international market.

Hence, there are more than 300 master weavers, each one owning at least 100-400

looms. A number of worksheds with 5-6 looms in each can be seen in mangalagiri. It

is a flourishing business having exports to Japan, Paris, Export orders for shirting

yardages are also received from Chennai and Mumbai. Thus the weavers are not

inclined to work for the cooperative society. They prefer working for the master

weavers as they get continuous work, high wages and personal loans whenever there

was any need without many formalities.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –X : THE YEMMIGANUR WEAVERS

COOPERATIVE PRODUCTION AND SALE SOCIETY LIMITED,

YEMMIGANUR, KURNOOL DISTRICT

Introduction: The Society started in the year 1936 A.D.under the leadership

of Late Padmashri Machani Somappa with 20 members, 20 looms and paid up Share

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Capital of Rs.170/-. By virtue of the loyalty and cooperation of the members and

sincere and self-less work of the management. The membership increased 2320, with

1190 looms and a paid up Share Capital of Rs.40.00 lakhs during 2003-2004. At

present about 6000 members are depending directly and indirectly by the society.

During the year 1951 A.D. under the leadership of Late Padmashri Machani

Somappa, Weavers Colony has established with 152 houses in a auspicious of 11

cents site costing Rs.6400/-. The cost of the house is realized from members out of

their conversion charges which helped the members to acquire a decent house of their

own.

In Gudikal village the society purchased 1.52 acres at a cost of Rs. 2.50 Lakhs

and distributed the same to 42 members and houses were constructing under A.P.

Housing Scheme. The A.P. Government has also sanctioned 240 Housing-cum-

worksheds to our society members.

Raw materials: The Government of A.P. imposed 9.25% Excise Duty on the yarn

purchases and since 3 years the yarn rates have been increased from 35% 40% on the

normal rates. Where as the societies purchasing yarn through National Handloom

Development Corporation., will get 9.25% discount by way of exemption of excise

duty. Where as National Handloom Development Corporation accepts orders against

full payment in advance. With these difficulties the society was still able to supply the

yarn to only to few weavers.

Production: The society has produced an average production of Rs. 360.00

Lakhs, of handloom goods and average sales during same period reached to Rs.

450.00 Lakhs approximately. The society is having dyeing unit, hank mercerizing

plant, printing section and designing sections along with main goods godown, and 7

production centers like Yemmiganur, Gudikal, Nandavaram, Nagaladinne,

Gonegandla, Kosigi, Gudur. The technical appraisors are functioning effectively

resulting in production of high quality goods.

The Society was taking up welfare measures to the weaver members such as

a) Production Bonus b) Medical Aid @Rs. 400/- per annum, c) Free books to the

children of members upto Degree level d) Funeral expenses @. Rs. 2000/- is being

paid to the deceased members. Further the society is being paid higher conversion

charges to member when compared with other co- operative societies in the state.

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The society was catering various training programmes to weavers in latest

techniques sponsored by District Rural Development Agency and Deen Dayal

Hathkarika Protsahan Yojana schemes to improve their weaving techniques.

In the year of 94-95 the A.P. Government has awarded a cash prize of Rs. 3.00 Lakhs

and Government of India has also awarded a Gold plate for the excellence services

rendered in by the society in Handloom sector.

Products: The society was producing high qualities handloom clothes like

Dhoties, Bed sheets, Mosquito Nets, Shirting, Towels, Lungies, Guaze Bandage

Cloth, Pure Silk Sarees and other allied handloom products. Cotton Bed Sheets,

Blankets, Towels, Lungies, Dhotis and Hand Kerchiefs being the most popular.

Marketing: The society had purchased sales depots at various places. The society

was having 48 depots Sales spreading over I Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka States

upto 2003.

Short fall of working capital, procurement of Raw materials had become difficult

in view of short fall in funds. The society was unable to provide full time work to

members. The depots are out of stock. All these factors leaded to drop in production,

sales and resulted in loss for the first time in 2001-2002, the same trend is continuing

during 2002-2003 also. If the Government can fulfill certain financial needs put forth

by the society then they can uplift the member’s financial status since they are solely

dependent on the society by producing handloom goods for the yarn supplied by the

society.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –XI : SRI CHAMUNDESHWARI

HANDLOOM WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, MANULALAPETA,

VENKATAGIRI, NELLORE DISTRICT

Raw materials: the fine count cotton yarn of 100s, 120s was purchased from

NHDC and sometimes when the demand is more also purchased from private yarn

traders of Hindupur. Tested zari from Surat.

Production: The weaver’s of the society were trained in designs and in dyeing

processes with colourfast dyes at weavers’ service center. The society had its own

dyeing unit and yarns are dyed to match the design. These dyed yarns were sized

before supplying to the weavers. This way the uniformity of colour in the production

is maintained and bulk orders are taken up for production.

Products: Dress materials with zari borders, fine cotton saress with zari

borders, salwar kameez sets, dhotis and shirting material.

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Marketing: Both wholesale and retail business through cooperative sales

outlet and through APCO sales depots. There was high demand for these sarees both

in the local and in other states due to the comfort and dignity of draping these sarees.

Also a number of independent weavers are found both Padmasali and other caste can

be seen in weaving profession.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –XII : VENKATESHWARA

HANDLOOM WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, EPURUPALEM,

CHIRALA, PRAKASAM DISTRICT

Introduction: This society was formed in the year 1988 A.D. to replace the

Duggirala Gopala Krishnaiah co-operative society. There were 120 weavers working

for the society. The society provides work to all the weaver members. The house-

cum-workshed scheme was implemented through the former society. Under this 100

houses were constructed with place for loom inside the house. Thus, hundred weaver

members got benefited in this scheme. There has been large scale migration of

weavers into Chirala area due to the export market demand. This has led to the

emergence of worksheds in this area.

Most of the weavers were highly skilled and adopted the jacquard weaving

and converted their looms to jacquard looms. Each household has one pit loom with

jacquard attachment.

Raw Materials: National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) the

yarns and dyes are supplied to the weavers through the society. Tested zari from Surat

is used for the borders. Natural dyes and chemicals were used by some of the weavers

who received training under various Government projects. Some of the weavers

working under master weavers, designers and NGOs also adopted to natural dyeing

and new designs.

Production: The access to export markets that Chirala traditionally had gives

it a unique position in Andhra Pradesh Handloom industry. They were once producing

Telia Rumals, Real Madras Hand Kerchiefs (RMHK) for export. When the demand

for these decreased, the entire production changed to weaving jacquard sarees, as well

as dress materials. Today, Chirala is famous for its fine cotton products and natural

dyes being used having the concept of eco-friendly fabrics.

Products: Sarees of 100s, 80s with jacquard designs, Dress materials, Dhotis,

Lungis, RMHK, Shirting Material Yardages.

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Marketing: The primary target being the domestic, urban market and

exports. They have wholesale and retail through APCO and own retail outlets located

at various district of Andhra Pradesh.

The organizational structure corresponding to this production has been one

where a large chunk of weavers work under the master weaver, though there have

been a noticeable number of independent weavers too, who own looms and weaver at

home but, market their products to master weavers. The proliferation of master

weavers into Chirala area is another noteworthy phenomenon.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTER –XIII : SAIBABA HANDLOOM

WEAVERS’ CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, PONDUR, SRIKAKULUM

DISTRICT

Introduction: The Saibaba Handloom Weavers’ Co-Operative Society,

started it production in the year 1942 A.D. with 1000 weavers as members before

independence. Now a registered society with a handful of only 50 active weavers

remained in the weaving profession. The annual production of the society is

approximately Rs. 13 lakhs. Most of the weavers are living in the households

benefited from the Government Scheme.

Raw materials: The yarns and dyes were supplied to the weavers through the

society NHDC. Tested zari from Surat was used for the borders.

Production: Wages are paid to them when they return with their woven

articles. Through Mill Gate Scheme the yarns were supplied through society. The

fineness of the dhotis and sarees were known to be of high quality. The weaves are

highly skilled. It takes nearly 7-10 days to weave each artifact. The borders were

decorated with traditional design using tested zari and sometimes with Muga silk.

Products: Fine cotton sarees with temple borders, fine dhotis with zai or silk

borders, Kanduva/Angavstram.

Marketing: They market their products through the sales depots of APCO.

The products were in demand in coastal Andhra Pradesh especially in East Godavari,

West Godavari, Visakapatnam, Vizayanagarma, Krishna etc. nearly 75% of its

production was sold through APCO and the other 25% through wholesale and retail

from its own co-operative sales outlets.

Apart from the society, there were master weavers who provide employment

to most of the weavers. The quality and amount of production was entirely different

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from that of co-operative society. They had a thorough understanding of the market

and sales were well established in the market.

PROFILE OF HANDLOOM CENTERS – XIV : NARAYANPET HANDLOOM

WEAVERS COOPERATIVE SOCIETY, MAHABOOB NAGAR DISTRICT

Introduction: The society was formed in the year 1952 A.D. with 363 weaver

members and 3 sales persons

Raw material: cotton, rayon and polyester blends of cotton yarn, silk rayon

and zari are supplied through the society for subsidized prices. Also from local yarn

vendors when there is high demand.

Production: Dyed warp and weft yarn for 12 sarees are given to the weavers.

The pern (weft) winding is performed by the female members and children in the

family. The weaver spends 12-14 hours in the weaving. The weavers have changed

from weaving fine count cotton sarees which had no demand in the market to the

present variety. The change was gradual. The colours from dull shades to bright solid

and union or double colours are adopted. The borders are woven with rayon or silk

yarns with satin, herringbone designs. The products of Narayanpet were identified as

exportable products by HEPC, and some of the weavers were trained to weave certain

products like furnishings, drapery for export purpose.

Products: Narayanpet cotton sarees with silk/rayon threads in the border look

like that of ilkal sarees of Maharastra.

Marketing: Narayanapet sarees have both wholesale and retail market. They

sell through their own sales outlets as well as through APCO. The best quality

products were send to Maharastra, Gujarat, New Delhi and Kolkata. Distribution was

based on the demand and prior order placed.

The market was dominated by the master weavers in this area. There were

many master weavers providing employment to more than 200 weavers for

production

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PLATE 4: RASTRAPATHI AWARD FOR INDIGENOUS PUNCH CARD INVENTION

4.3.. DASTKAR ANDHRA-NON GOVERNMENT ORGANISATION

Introduction: Dastkar Andhra began in 1988 A.D. as an offshoot of Dastkar,

Delhi. It was a non-profit trust, registered in 1995 A.D. that works within Andhra

Pradesh to promote the interests of the producer communities within the cotton

handloom weaving industry. The objective of Dastkar Andhra has been “to explore

practically, the possibilities of craft production as a contemporary economic activity

based on traditional skills and resources, and to develop forms of organization that

would ensure wide dispersal of economic returns among the producers”.

It was a non government organization engaged in the development of natural

dyed and printed products. Initially started at Chirala , they work in close association

with weavers. The natural dyeing is carried out by one master, one assistant ad three

field worker. A team of one designer from National Institute with two assistants work

for design development one at Chirala and the second one at Adilabad.

Production: Production centers were located at 1) Rajavolu, 2) Ganapathi

Handloom weaver’s co-operative society, Angara, 3) Ponduru society, Srikakulum,

4) Pasalapudi, East Godavari, (Natural and chemical dyed), 5) Pulugurtha, East

Godavari (Chemical dyes only), 6) Chirala coastal handlooms. The members of

society which was closed are associated with Dastkar, 7) Kappaladoddi,

Machilipatnam, Krishna district, 8) Isukapalli Handloom Weavers co-operative

society, Repally, Guntur, 9) Koyalagudem, Nalgonda.

Semi Khadi material was developed with warp cotton, weft khadi cotton at

Ponduru Khadi Society and dyed with natural dyes. Saibaba society of ponduru

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supplies the raw material and development. Payment is made within one month of the

supply.

The borders of sarees and dress materials were dyed with natural dyes at

pasalapudi, Eat Godavari. Weavers of Rajavolu Hnadloom weavers co-operative

Society, Guntur were ready to do checks design in sarees and dupattas. A team of

designer and field workers were involved with the society to develop 80s /80s saree.

Weavers were given changes to be adopted based on the feed back received at

exhibitions. And only Rajavolu weavers readily adopted the changes and product

development was done. Indigo Research Process was carried out at Kadapa. New

samples were developed and supplied to ‘Fab India’with code numbers, warp and

weft colour specification in order to have ease in ordering.

With a thorough understanding of consumer interests, lower and middle class

ranges were developed. They also produce Khadi yarn at their decentralized spinning

unit of Chirala from power operated charkhas. Wages paid to weavers same as fixed

by Government for the Handloom weavers’ societies.

Products: Dress material sets, Dupattas, cotton sarees of 80s count with tested

zari borders, Indigo dyed yardages, Dhotis, Lungis, Towels, Dress material with zari

and silk thread borders, Hand kerchiefs, Kanduvas or Angavastram, Ikkat materials

with natural dyeing, household linen-table cloth, Napkin, Bed sheets, Eluru carpets,

readymades stitched by order, Khadi yarn, Kondapalli toys and Ettikopaka toys.

Marketing: Retailing was started in the year 1997 A.D. opening a retailoutlet

by one of the member at her house naming it as ‘Gautami’. She approached Mahila

mandals for exhibitions and awareness campaigns about the living conditions of

weavers. Also counseling was given to people to get involved in marketing. With a

small deposit of money, stock was given to sell at houses and unsold stock has to be

returned with in a month.

One marketing person works to get orders from other states with the help of

field workers from Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Kolkata. The seven retail branches of

Fab India orders of not less than 20,000 meters per annum.

Marketing Strategies followed were, word of month marketing,Participation in

Nature Bazaar exhibition, New Delhi. Export to Dalailama Charitable Trust, Indigo

dyed products to Japan, export to Richard Jones of Netherlands.

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Their opinion was that, weaving defects and patches in dyeing are very

common and consumers are counseled or made aware of it while selling their

products.

4.4. CASE STUDIES OF KHADI AND HANDLOOM WEAVERS

CASE STUDY-I : MALLESH CHINTAKINDI

Twenty eight year old Mallesh Chintakindi lives with his father, mother,

brother and sister in Aleru. He had a scientific approach, who invented “Aasu

machine” during May, 1999 A.D. His father migrated to Aleru in the year1993 A.D.

for his livelihood from Siricilla. Being from a weaver’s family - Padmasali

community, Mallesh keenly observed that his mother took one whole day to prepare

aasu (weft) as a preparatory step, before starting the weaving. Weaving is such a

profession which demanded the participation of all the family members, he found that

young girls, and boys and wife of the weaver in every family involved totally in Aasu

preparation.

PLATE 3: MALLESH (ALERU )INVENTED ASU MACHINE

During 1995 A.D., when the market for handlooms suffered, he migrated to

Hyderabad for livelihood. Being educated upto intermediate (10+2), he learned

electric work in Musheerabad videocon service centre. Having conceived the idea of

“Aasu machine” he worked hard for four years and spent money to develop the

machine. The “Aasu machine” he invented is an essential requirement for all those

working with loom and especially useful for ikkat weaving. It requires 9000 rounds of

weft yarn to be wound on Aasu machine hand operated. So, the Mallesh’s Aasu

machine has a capacity of 600-9800 rounds per hour with counter attachment to

regulate. It is fully automatic machine and stops on its own according to the settings

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and has the advantage of no yarn breakage. Even if yarn breakage occurs, the machine

stops immediately.

Department of sericulture, Bangalore had recognized “Aasu machine” through

silk board, Hyderabad. They had given financial support to establish a workshop at

his house. One of Rs.3, 30,000/- and one of Rs.1, 80,000/- had being given for

purchasing the machinery. 30%of the total loan is to be paid back. Sericulture

department of Thailand had approached him through Bangalore office and they

recognized “aasu machine” and had taken demonstration of its operation.

Till date he had prepared fifty Aasu machines and installed them at places like

Chanduru, Puttapaka, Nalgonda, Chowtuppal etc. 6 Aasu machines are working at

silk nagar itself. Each “Aasu machine” costs Rs. 50,000 and it can serve the weft

requirement for ten (10) looms.

Mallesh want to improve it by his own education or through help. He is

putting efforts for the reduction of cost. He thinks that market is the main drawback

for the handloom products. Hence, there is no standard regular income for the weaver

which causes all the other problems. He feels they should get good amount of money

in off season also.

CASE STUDY II : SWAMY G.

Swamy G. was thirty eighty years old, independent weaver from past 20 years.

He was living in Chowtuppal with his wife and daughter. He belongs to Padmasali

community. He was working for wages (job work) due to the debt he took for his

daughter’s marriage from Satyanarayana master weaver.

He was weaving eight sarees in one month with the help of his wife and

daughter. He is paid Rs. 2000/- as wage by the master weaver. He studied upto 4 th

class and learned weaving with interest. He migrated to silk nagar from Mantapur in

1993 and is member of co-operative society. Independently, he was earning Rs..

2500/- per month with his single loom

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PLATE 5: LATTICE OF JACQUARD

He invested Rs. 2,500/-per loom of which Rs. 1,500/- per simple loom and Rs.

1,000/- per jacquard attachment. While he was independently weaving, he procured

the raw materials from Jangaom and Pochampally. It took 1 kg of warp and 32 kgs of

weft to weave 8 sarees and costed Rs. 1,500/- per Kilogram of Silk Yarn. Colour costs

Rs. 200/- for 2-8 colours and he used maximum 3-4 colours per saree. Zari cost Rs.

250/- per packet where as only ½ packet per saree is required. The colours used are

colorfast to washing and light.

He preferred private market than selling to society due to high profit. He feels

dissatisfied in market due to lack of market for handloom products.

CASE STUDY- III : YERRAGANTLA SATYANARAYAN

Yerragantla Satyanarayan was fifty five (55) years old living with his father,

wife and three sons. He belongs to Padmasali community. He owns four looms and

employed 3 weavers on salary basis.In the year 1988 A.D. his father migrated from

Tanguturu to Aleru due to loss in business. In the year 1992 A.D.he developed “Aasu

machine”. Nine years he worked for it. Mallesh developed on this machine. Ion one

day Aasu can be prepared for 4 sarees that is approximately two(2) hours per each

saree.

He gets order from “Vanitha sarees”- owned by Amarender and Goverdhan of

Pochampally. He does dyeing at home itself and runs own business. He employed

three weaver paying Rs. 1400/- per month. On each loom warping is done for eight

sarees. Each weaver employed weaves 5-8 sarees per month. He spends Rs. 6000/- for

raw materials, i.e. silk yarn and dyes etc. and gains a profit of Rs. 2,000/- per 8 sarees.

The time taken may be one month to one month plus12 to 15 days.

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He says just for the sake of membership the handloom co-operative society

exists. We are not totally dependent on society. We don’t have other skills but we are

improving the quality. Bank provides only Rs. 10,000/- for investing in the raw

materials based on the permanent property surety. So, we cannot develop on it. My

own father Yerragantla Pundari, 64 year old was doing the same designs he inherited/

leaned. From the year 1965 A.D. onwards he was doing the tie and dye or ikkat in the

sarees. He did it on cotton. From the year 1975 A.D. onwards we adopted silk.

Previously he was doing broad designs but now changed over new small designs as

specified by Pochampally orders. The naksha is given to the weavers and are assisted

in weaving new designs.

Never had he tried for double ikkat. It takes minimum of Rs. 1100/- to 1600/-

for raw materials per each saree. Surat zari was used for golden borders. Weavers are

trained in making buta designs. They have all ordinary jacquard looms and punch

cards.

CASE STUDY-IV : CHINTAKELLI KISHTAYYA

Chintakelli Kishtayya was eighty (80) year old weaver. He belongs to

Padmasali community. He migrated to Pochampally two years back from

Goverayyapalli, because the silk merchants never used to visit that village. Since the

merchants visit Pochampally very frequently, Kishtayya took decision to migrate. He

lost his eye sight due to some green solution poured into his eye by some local

medical practitioner.

PLATE 8:BOY IN TIE AND DYE PREPARATORY WORK

Due to illness and old age he was doing job work for master weaver of

Jangaom. He was weaving only single ikkat sarees in cotton. He earns Rs.500/- per

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saree. One saree took one week to weave completely. His son was providing shelter to

him in a kaccha house with two looms placed inside. At this stage of life he wants to

retire from weaving and requests for provision of old age pension as he was unable to

work. His input per day was only 2 meters.

CASE STUDY-V : PUNJALA VENKATESH

Punjala Venkatesh of Kothkota was thirty nine years old and studied 10 th class.

He was married with 4 children living in a joint family. He belongs to Padmasali

community and weaving was their family occupation. He acquired the skills since his

childhood. He was member of Kothakota Handloom weavers’ co-operative society.

But, due to lack of work from the society, he was working under a master weaver. He

also got trained in a workshop on dyeing of silk by weavers service center.

PLATE 6: JACQUARD LOOM IN OPERATION

His expertise in weaving traditional sico sarees on jacquard loom. He works

more than 10 hours to eke-out his livelihood. His wife has to help in weaving activity

based on the design requirement. Hence the earnings Rs.800-1000/- per month are the

payments given to two persons. He was aware of some of the Government schemes.

Hence, he got benefited in the house-workshed scheme of Government 8 years back.

He was of the opinion that “working capital is the main problem in the

weaving profession”. If they got the credit, they end up paying the high rate of interest

if the goods are not sold in time. Hence, he prefered to work on wage basis under

master weaver to avoid the risk. He states that, if I can get atleast one customer from

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city who can pay minimum cost for my sarees, I’ll be able to feed my children. He

refuses to involve his children in weaving profession.

CASE STUDY-VI : DUGGA CHADRASEKHAR

Dugga Chadrasekhar was thirty three years old and studied upto 8 th class. He

lives in Rojoli with his mother and wife. He belongs to Padmasali community. He is

a member of Rojoli handloom weavers’ co-operative society. But, he is working

independently. He inherited weaving from his forefathers and also leaned the art of

dyeing. All the preparatory works involved before weaving are done at home with the

help of family members. His mother is a spinner and wife helps in the weaving of

saree.

PLATE 7: GIRL IN PREPARATORY WORK

He was highly skilled and weaving skills can be seen from the sarees he has

woven. He has a jacquard loom at his residence and weaves sico (silk/cotton) and

tussar Gadwal sarees. He works for more than 12 hours per day and weaves 3 sarees

in a month. He sells them to master weavers or local retail shops with a marginal

profit.

CASE STUDY-VII : VARADA SUBBARAYUDU

Varada Subbarayudu was fifty three years old living with his wife and five

children in Proddatur. He belongs to Padmasali community. He was involved in the

reeling of silk and warp beam preparation. He is a skilled weaver of Proddatur fine

cotton sarees with zari borders which have lost market due to the invasion of silk into

the market.

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Figure 1: PITLOOM WEAVING BY V.SUBBARAYUDU,PRODDATUR

Though he was a member co-operative society, he works for as independent

weaver. The raw material is purchased from private yarn dealers and spools are to be

handed over sold as per the weight. He has purchased the reeling machine through the

society for a subsidised price. The reeling machine is power operated. His wife and

children helps him in the process. His work starts as soon as he wakes up early in the

morning and works for at least 16 hours per day.

He earns nearly Rs.3000-4000/- per month. He has educated his children. His

eldest girl did her B.Ed. and works as a teacher in a school.

CASE STUDY-VIII : SIRIVERU NARAYANASWAMY

Siriveru Narayanaswamy was forty eight years old belonging to padmashali

community. He was educated upto primary school and works as independent weaver

in Dharmavarm. He lives in nuclear family with his wife and four children who go to

school. He says, his father wanted to educate him but he liked weaving. He migrated

to Dharmavaram from Sunkesal of Kadapa district. He migrated as Dharmavaram has

better market facitlity.

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PLATE 9: GIRL WEAVER

He had a loom located inside the house. He learned weaving Dharmavaram

variety saree woven with buta designs. He weaves 8 silk sarees of 6.20 meters with

blouse per month. It takes 24 days per month two days loom is idle for piecing. The

setting of lattice, degumming, dyeing warp, strtching the warp, dyeing the weft,

winding weft, zari winding on charkha are the preparatory processes involved in the

process which are performed with the help of his wife and children.

It involved Rs. 17,000/- to 20,000/- for the warp of 8 sarees and Rs.3000/ to

change the punch cards for every design. Four varieties of sarees are woven in one

colour. Rs.150-160/ are paid for piecing. He earns Rs. 11,000/- per month. He has

expertise in changing 3-4 types of designs every year. He is of the pinion that this

variety of silk sarees cannot be woven in powerlooms. Hence, there is no competition.

He doesn’t want to train his next generation in weaving.

CASE STUDY-IX

Alivelu was fourty eight years old and was living with her husband and two

children in a kaccha house in NagarKurnool, Mahaboobnagar district.. Spinning

charkha was her way of life from her 8 years of age. She was a member of Khadi

institution.

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PLATE 18: AN ELDER WOMAN HELPING THE WOMEN WEAVER

She winds cotton yarn onto spools which were placed inside the shuttle that

carry the weft yarn while weaving. She winds 10-12 spools per day. Her wages are

Rs.3/- to 5/- per day amounting to Rs. 1800/- per month. She works more than 12

hours per day apart from household work at the same time taking care of children.

Her goal was to have an own house. Her ambition is to educate her children so

that they get well paid jobs in big offices.

CASE STUDY-X

Ramaiah was thirty six years old living in Srikakulum. He lives in a nuclear

family with his wife and three children. His children are studying in primary school.

He studied up to sventh class. He has two pit looms inside his house. One is idle since

his father’s death. Weaving was his family occupation and from his childhood it has

been the day to day activity. It is a well known job for him and he acquired the skills

from his elders. He works 20-22 days a month and the other days are spent in

preparatory processes. He spends 10-12 hours per day in weaving activity.

His expertise was in weaving traditional cotton dhotis with coloured or zari

borders. He was a member of cooperative society but, he works for a mater weaver.

He says no more I’m weaving the traditional motifs as plain and checks designs are

ordered by the master weaver. He was of the opinion that, working under master

weaver was compulsory since no help is extended from any cooperatives or from

Government to invest on our work.

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PLATE 13: TEENAGE WEAVER WITH PITLOOM INSIDE THE HOUSE

He feels that he can weaver a better quality fabric and design provided he can

get raw materials. He has no purchasing capacity to buy the raw materials. Raw

materials are given by the master weaver and Ramaiah has to get back with the

finished products with in a time period specified by the master weaver.

Ramaiah had no idea about where his products were sold and for how much.

He expressed that “if I change the profession and place, so many fluctuations and

disturbances can arise. So, I would prefer to continue here”.

CASE STUDY-XI

Pushpalatha S. was thirty seven years old living in Madhavaram. She was a

widow living with her two sons who are studying in Poly technique and intermediate.

She is independent weaver belonging to Padmasali community. She was helping her

husband in the preparatory processes but took over weaving after his death.

PLATE 16: WOMAN WEAVER

She has a pit loom with dobby attachment to weave the border of the saree and

“Dhadi” attachment for weaving the pallav designs. She weaves fine cotton sarees of

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100s with one side zari border and pallav decorated with zari. Dyed yarn for weaving

six (6) sarees is give by the master weaver. Warp sizing is done by her to make it stiff

and strong. Designs are specified by the master weaver.

For weaving six sarees of 5.5. meters length without matching blouse, 3 ½

bundles of warp (Padhu), 2 ½ bundles of weft (Padugu) and one (1) mark zari or 4

bundles are tested zari are used. She changes the border design as per the market

demand. Sometimes she weaves polyester cotton saress or silk shirting yardages as

per the order received by the master weaver. She works for 30 days per month and 12-

14 hours per day. She gets paid Rs. 100/- per saree and she manages to weave 25-30

sarees per month earning nearly Rs. 3000/- per month.

These products were in demand in local market especially lower class, middle

class and agricultural labourers wear these sarees. Each saree costs Rs.250/- and

Rs.350/- for mercerized cotton in the retail market.She finds the difficulty when there

is health problem. As there is no facility for continuous work, she is planning to open

a grocery shop at her residence itself.

CASE STUDY-XII

Kunkumalla Ranga Rao was fifty four year old weaver belonging to Padmasali

community living in Illavaram. He lives in his own house with his wife, mother and

three children. He was educating his children. He was a member of The Guntur Zilla

Khaid Gramodhyog Samithi, Guntur.

PLATE 10:BOY WEAVER

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He weaves the polyvastra fabric for the The Guntur Zilla Khaid Gramodhyog

Samithi, Guntur. The polyester cotton hand spun yarn was supplied through the

society. He manages to weave 2 ½ to 3 meters of fabric per day. He worked at least

10-12 hours per day and almost 30 days a month unless he had to attend something

urgent.

His wages are fixed as per the cost sheet of the KVIC. He had received the

artisan welfare fund from the trust of The Guntur Zilla Khaid Gramodhyog Samithi as

his son passed 10th class in first division. He was educating him further and doesn’t

want to involve his children in weaving profession.

CASE STUDY-XIII

Markandeyulu Sherla was forty three years old living in a joint family in

Wavilal. He belong to Kurnisali community. He lives with his wife and one son. His

son was studying in primary school. He was member of Metpally Khadi Gramodhyog

Pratisthan.

He learned weaving form his father and now he expertises in weaving cotton

Khadi shirting cloth with self checks. He was living in a semi pacca house. He has

one pit loom located inside his house. The fabric is woven with 42-44” width. He can

weave 2-2 1/2 meters per day if he works for 10-12 hours per day. He works for 6

days in a week. Sunday and festival days are considered as holidays.

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PLATE 11:WOMEN AND MAN INPREPARATORY WORK

He feels that weaving involves a lot of hardship and paid less. He wants to

work as weaver as he doesn’t know any other work. Wages are received regularly

from the Khadi institution and he earns Rs.2500/- to Rs.3000/- per month. Once in a

year the unsold defective pieces are given to the weavers and spinner from institution.

This fulfills the clothing consumption of his family to some extent. He request for

increase in wages in order to have a better livelihood.

CASE STUDY-XIV

Yadagiri was forty seven years old Padmasali weaver living in Narayanapet in

a semi pacca house. He was a weaver working for master weaver. He is living in a

nuclear family with his wife and two children. Weaving is hereditary for their family.

Even his four brothers were also in the same profession. He had one pitloom at his

house.

He took Rs 2000/- from the master weaver for buying tools necessary to

improve his loom. Hence, he was bound to work for him as gratitude. He works from

7.30 am to 6.00 pm in order to weave 8 sarees per month. He adopted new designs

which have better market demand.

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PLATE 12: GIRLS IN WARP AND WEFT PREPARATION

He was of the opinion that ‘the traditional products what my father was

weaving are not in demand today’. I weave as per the order given by the master. The

new designs were like Maharastra sarees. The raw materials, designs, colour

specifications are given by the master weaver. His future ambition was to have at least

another loom and employ a coolie weaver in order earn more livelihood.

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