response of some 3:1 haul systems to excessive...
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Response of Some 3:1 Haul Systems to Excessive Loading Thomas Evans, [email protected]
SAR3, http://sarrr.weebly.com/
Abstract:
Haul systems are used when extra force is required to raise a load, so they are frequently
capable of generating large forces. Some haul systems are able to generate enough force to either
break components of systems or load the system enough that system components start to behave
differently (e.g., prusiks start to slip). Knowing how haul systems change or break with high
loading will help identify overloaded systems and determine how safe the systems are.
Presented here are observations of 3:1 haul systems built with three different ropes in two
configurations pulled with a hydraulic ram: (1) During a haul, and (2) When the progress capture
prusik is holding the load.
New unused rope was donated by Pigeon Mountain Industries (PMI), and included
11.5mm Isostatic, 11mm Classic Sport Max, and 11mm Classic Pro EZ. In addition, PMI
donated new unused 8mm accessory cord. The rope and cordage were cut into predetermined
lengths and used to build inline 3:1 haul systems (Z-rigs). The systems were pulled to failure
using a hydraulic ram at CMC Rescue in Goleta, CA using a calibrated Omega load cell.
The haul systems did not behave as expected, with results depending on the rope type and
system configuration.
When haul systems were pulled in the hauling configuration, the Isostatic rope broke at
the knot at the load end (average of 20.4kN or 4577lbs, N=12), the Classic Pro EZ rope usually
showed prusik slippage with occasional knot or prusik breakage (average 20.2kN or 4540lbs,
N=13), while the Classic Sport Max yielded perpetual slippage of the prusiks with a peak force
average of 21.6kN or 4847lbs (N=11).
When haul systems were pulled during a reset the results were mixed. Isostatic rope often
yielded broken mantles (N=11) or a broken prusik (N=2), and out of 16 observations, the rope
was cut by the prusik twice. Isostatic rope broke with an average failure strength of 14.6kN or
3293lbs (N=16). The Classic Pro EZ usually displayed prusik failure (N=12) with occasional
mantle failure (N=3) and an average failure strength of 15.2kN or 3408lbs (N=16). The Classic
Sport Max most frequently displayed prusik failure (N=7) with occasional mantle failure (N=3)
and an average strength of 15.6kN or 3498lbs (N=10). All haul systems in all configurations
displayed prusik slippage prior to the failure of any system component (prusik, mantle, or rope).
There is no “one” behavior pattern for 3:1 haul systems. Notably, the polyester rope
(Isostatic) behaved markedly differently than the other two nylon ropes (Classic Pro EZ and
Classic Sport Max). On all rope types, prusiks slipped at least once before eventual failure of the
prusik, mantle, or rope, but prusiks slipped at different forces in each case, with additional slips
at higher forces. In short, the traditional prusik clutch effect was observed only sometimes
(Classic Sport Max), or not at all (Isostatic). Lastly, the forces at which some system components
broke were low enough that some agencies may not have the required strength to achieve the
Static System Safety Factors outlined in their SOPs or SOGs. Clearly, the inline 3:1 haul system
is safe and effective due to its extensive history of use, but it is important to acknowledge the
variability in behavior and actual strength of the system.
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Introduction:
Given the choice, most rescuers would prefer to lower patients rather than raise them; lowering is
faster, requires less equipment, and is physically easier. Occasionally, due to the geometry of the
environment and patient location, a raise is preferable, so nearly all teams train to perform raises or hauls.
This necessitates building and operating systems that meet the strength requirements of our organizations.
There are two dominant philosophies of how to ensure systems are “safe enough” for use, the
adoption of a predetermined static system safety factor (SSSF), or building systems with load limiters
(e.g., Yates Screamer) so the system can never reach high forces where component breakage could occur
(Mauthner 2014). In either case, many haul systems can generate forces that surpasses both the maximum
force used to calculate the SSSF or trigger the load limiter. Consequently, it is useful to know how haul
systems behave when loaded more than they were designed for, so we know how to identify when
systems are experiencing forces that should cause us concern.
This study focuses on the inline 3:1 haul system (Figure 1), because it is most often used in the
field and written about in training manuals (Table 1). Presented here is a suite of empirical observations
of inline 3:1 haul systems (Z-rigs) loaded until component pieces break or slip, in two configurations: (1)
During hauling, and (2) When the load is held with a single progress capture prusik. The goals are to
determine how systems respond to extreme loading, what the forces required to cause changes in system
operation (slippage or breaking pieces) are, and the difference in responses when using different
equipment combinations. (Only three combinations were observed here due to time limitations and
equipment availability.)
Figure 1: A frequently taught and used version of the inline 3:1 haul system (Z-rig) built with two
pulleys and two prusiks. Many other configurations are possible; this configuration appears most
common in training manuals.
It should be noted that the systems observed here may not, and probably do not, behave similarly
to other haul systems built in other configurations or using different equipment (e.g., a Rescucender vs. a
three wrap prusik). For example, the results here would not be comparable to building a 3:1 haul system
with an integrated MPD and using a Rescucender to reset the haul system. While the results have limited
applicability, they do describe the behavior of one common system, and give a general idea of how other
haul systems may work. Extrapolations from the data presented here should be tested empirically, but
useful extrapolations are possible. Other haul systems built with pulleys and prusiks may have similar
behaviors when loaded (e.g., prusik slippage, prusik failure, or mantle damage, etc.).
Materials and Methods:
New unused rope and cordage was donated by Pigeon Mountain Industries (PMI), the details of
which are displayed in Table 2. The accessory cord was cut into forty-two lengths 41” long, forty-two
lengths 48” long, alternating between lengths along the spool. Each piece was tied with a double
fisherman’s knot into a prusik loop. All knots were tied by the author for consistency. The rope was cut
into 129” lengths and used to build haul systems in two configurations: (1) During a haul, and (2) With
the load held by the progress capture prusik.
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Table 1: Citations and page numbers for training documents that teach the inline 3:1 haul system (Z-
rig). Within these citations numerous pieces of equipment are used to build the system, so not all of
the citations teach the inline 3:1 haul system built with two pulleys and two prusiks.
Citation Pages Citation Pages
Black 2013 182 Marbach and Tourte 2002 240, 295
Brennan 1999 227-228, 242-244 Matthews 2009 160-161, 169
Briggs 2013 145, 154-169 Merchant 2007 147-149
Brown 2000 259-261 Pendley 2003 39
CMC 1997 42-43 Rhodes 2013 80-82, 126
Fasulo and Clelland 2011 130-133 Roop et al. 1998 237-243
Federation Francaise de
Speleologie 2006
60-63 Shepherd 2007 242-245
Frank 1998 94-96, 101, 112 Smith and Padgett 1996 245
Frank 2014 143, 150, 155 Tyson and Loomis 2006 131-141
Hempel and Fregeau-
Conover 2001
216 Vines and Hudson 2004a 279, 282, 284-285,
291-292
Hudson and Lawrence 1988 167 Vines and Hudson 2004b 96
Lipke 1997 59, 63, 117 Warild 1990 106
Table 2: Details of the software donated by PMI, including; type of rope or cord, diameter, lengths of
spools, total lengths donated, and the sheath/core composition of each product.
Rope/Cord Diameter (mm) Lengths (m) Total Length (m) Sheath/Core Composition
Isostatic 11.5 46+92 138 Polyester/Polyester
Classic Pro EZ
(EZ Bend)
11 46+92 138 Nylon/Nylon
Classic Sport Max
(Pit Rope to cavers)
11 130 130 Nylon/Nylon
Accessory Cord 8 100 100 Nylon/Nylon
Pull testing took place at CMC Rescue in Goleta, California. They generously donated their
testing facilities and help of staff to run the equipment. The two haul system configurations were built on
the CMC drop tower with the following components:
1. Figure 2A: Haul systems were built with SMC steel carabiners (46kN) and two 3” NFPA G rated
pulleys (36kN) connected to the load anchor with a long tailed bowline. Short 8mm three wrap
prusiks were used in all trials with the haul prusik placed 12” from the bowline. The tail of the haul
line was tied off to a carabiner with a clove hitch with an overhand safety. Force was applied to the
anchor pulley because initial tests demonstrated that hauling on the haul side of the system only
pulled the slack/stretch out of the system rather than resulting in component breakage or changes to
system performance. These two approaches are functionally equivalent.
2. Figure 2B/C: Haul systems with a bowline with a long tail on the load end, with long 8mm three wrap
prusiks (Figure 2B). The pulleys used were 2” SMC pulleys, and the haul prusik was a spare 6mm
prusik. One pulley and the 6mm prusik were removed for most trials (Figure 2C) because they were
never loaded so were clearly not important in system function in the configuration loaded. Force was
applied to the load end of the line.
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Figure 2: Configurations of the inline 3:1 haul system observed. (A) During a haul, (B) Original
configuration with the load held by the progress capture prusik, (C) The configuration used during
trials with the load held by the progress capture prusik.
Haul systems were pulled at a rate of 8” per minute with a hydraulic ram, with a sampling rate of
200 measurements a second using a calibrated Omega LCCA-15K load cell. For both sets of observations
the load cell was placed where it measured the force applied to the prusik carrying the load.
Data were scaled for samples pulled in the hauling configuration because the load cell was
experiencing only two thirds of the total peak load that the load end of the system experienced. The data
was multiplied by 3/2 to yield the maximum peak load. For samples pulled in the configuration
simulating the load being held by the progress capture prusik, no data scaling was needed.
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It should be noted that the sample sizes for each trial are small (low teens), so the results
presented here are subject to the vagaries of small sample sizes. This means that the precision of the
numbers presented is suspect, however the large scale results probably have merit.
Results:
The raw and processed data are available for your use; please e-mail the author, and any materials
you are interested in will be sent as soon as possible.
Table 3 (at the end of the paper) provides the details for each sample pulled with the inline 3:1 in
the hauling configuration including: sample number, measured peak load, scaled peak load, breaking
strength/peak load in kN, notes on prusik slippage during pulling, and any location of failure if present.
Table 3a details Isototatic rope results, Table 3b Classic Pro EZ, and Table 3c Classic Sport Max (Pit
Rope).
Systems built with Isostatic rope broke where the rope entered the knot (bowline) in the load end.
The average strength of twelve pulls (N=12) was 20.4 kN (4577 lbs), with a standard deviation of 1.7 kN
(389 lbs), maximum of 23.8 kN (5357 lbs), minimum of 17.6 kN (3965 lbs), and a range of 6.2 kN (1392
lbs). These samples were characterized by prusiks slipping and sticking at ever greater values resulting in
ever higher forces culminating in failure at the knot. In other words, prusik slippage did not keep forces
low enough to prevent component failure.
Systems constructed with Classic Pro EZ (EZ Bend) rope were characterized by prusiks slipping
until the testing apparatus ran out of throw or a component broke. Two samples broke at the knot, and two
broke at the haul prusik, with the rest not failing at all (N=13). For most trials no part of the system broke,
rather the rope stretched, prusiks slipped, and the forces stayed lower than trials using Isostatic rope. The
average peak load for Classic Pro EZ trials was 13.5 kN (4540 lbs), with a range of 9.9 kN (3328 lbs),
which is a large range given the number of samples (N=13). This suggests that prusik slippage kept the
forces lower, though the rope or prusiks that did fail broke at lower values than the breakage of a bowline
in Isostatic rope.
Similarly, systems built with Classic Sport Max (Pit Rope) displayed prusik stick/slip behavior
until the apparatus ran out of throw. At no point did any component fail, though the peak loads that
developed were high. Two samples displayed continuous slipping when pulled, whereas the other nine
samples displayed prusik stick/slip behavior. Those samples that stick/slipped (N=9) developed high peak
loads, minimum of 20.0 kN (4502 lbs) and a maximum of 26.3 kN (5916 lbs). Thus it appears that the
prusik clutch effect was partially working for systems built out of Classic Pro EZ and Classic Sport Max
rope with prusiks slipping enough to prevent system component failure. The value at which prusiks first
slipped was highly variable, and for many samples consecutive prusik slips occurred at higher forces.
Consequently, the idea that prusiks slip at around one value was not observed in most samples (only
observed in two samples made from Classic Sport Max), so the clutch effect should no longer be taught
simplistically to novice riggers.
Table 4 (at the end of the paper) provides the details for each sample pulled with the load held by
the progress capture pursik, including: sample number, measured peak load, breaking strength in kN,
notes on prusik slippage during pulling, and location of failure. Table 4a details Isostatic rope results,
Table 4b Classic Pro EZ (EZ Bend) rope, and Table 4c Classic Sport Max (Pit Rope) rope.
Systems built using Isostatic rope (N=16) displayed a range of failure modes after prusiks slipped
a few times. The rope mantles broke in eleven samples, two prusiks broke, two prusiks cut the rope in
half, and in one sample the prusik slipped enough that no failure occurred before running out of throw.
The average breaking strength across all failure modes was 14.6 kN (3293 lbs) with a standard deviation
of 0.5 kN (120 lbs), maximum of 15.8 kN (3560 lbs), minimum of 13.7 kN (3074 lbs), and a range of 2.2
kN (486 lbs).
Systems built from Classic Pro EZ rope (N=16) provided similarly consistent results. Twelve
samples broke at the prusik, three resulted in mantle failure, and one sample had a prusik slip more or less
consistently until the apparatus ran out of throw (this sample was removed to calculate descriptive
statistics due to the low peak load of 5.6 kN). The average breaking strength was 15.8 kN (3552 lbs) with
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a standard deviation of 0.6 kN (137 lbs), a maximum of 16.4 kN (3684 lbs), minimum of 14.1 kN (3181
lbs), and a range of 2.2 kN (503 lbs).
Systems built with Classic Sport Max (N=10) showed similar failure modes with seven samples
breaking at the prusik and three breaking at the rope mantle. The average breaking strength was 15.6 kN
(3498 lbs) with a standard deviation of 0.7 kN (162 lbs), a maximum of 16.7 kN (3749 lbs), a minimum
of 14.3 kN (3222 lbs), and a range of 2.3 kN (527 lbs).
The small standard deviations and ranges for all three sample sets indicate that these populations
show a remarkable consistency in their breakage strengths, indicating that all three data sets should be
largely indicative of the results if larger sample sizes were employed.
Discussion and Conclusions:
The author was taught that overloaded prusiks would all slip at around 5.3 kN or 12000 lbs, a
behavior that was not observed here. What is clear is that the ways the systems react to high forces vary
with the different equipment used. This means that there is no one piece of advice that applies to all rope
types and haul systems. These results underscore that variability in haul system behavior is important to
acknowledge and teach early in a rescuer’s training.
Generally during hauling, prusiks slip prior to any component breaking, however the slip can
occur at a variety of forces, and could occur once or many times prior to part of the system breaking
(assuming continued load). When a system component breaks it is usually the knot at the load (frequently
this is a long tail bowline at a litter bridle, etc.) or the haul prusik. For the Isostatic rope (all polyester
construction) a prusik can even sever the rope with very little warning (a prusik slip). It should be noted
that during a haul operation the load is over the edge and there is edge friction between the knot in the
load end and the haul system. This means that the force applied to the system is highest between the haul
system (e.g., haul cam/prusik) and the edge because the force applied over the edge is comprised solely of
the load. Similarly, the haul prusik in an inline 3:1 haul system only experiences 2/3 of the force imparted
to the load (ignoring friction). Consequently, it is a matter of the force applied, where it is applied, and the
friction inherent in the system that will determine if the haul prusik or the knot will fail first.
While the progress capture prusik is holding the load, during extreme loading events the rope
mantle fails, a prusik breaks, or sometimes the rope is cut in half by the prusik. All three of these
responses happen at more or less the same forces so it is impossible to tell which will occur first with new
equipment.
What is important is that the range of responses to loading in both configurations is wide, and the
responses occur at loads that are the same. This means that haul teams are likely to see a prusik slip
(hopefully they notice!), then after that any number of system changes could occur. There could be more
prusik slippage, a prusik break, a knot break, or the rope cut in half. In any of these scenarios having a
slipped prusik indicates that something bad could occur if something is not altered in the system (most
likely too much edge friction).
For organizations that have SOPs/SOGs with required SSSFs, these results can help calculate
what SSSF you actually have in this system. For a 1 kN load a 10:1 SSSF is maintained, however for a
2kN load the SSSF is not always above 10:1. This may or may not be a concern for your organization
depending on the loads permitted and the SSSF required. The take home message is, we may not have the
SSSFs we think we have with some haul systems.
This study was not designed to determine the differences in system responses based on different
rope fiber types, but it is clear that the Isostatic rope behaved differently than the Classic Pro EZ or the
Classic Sport Max. During hauling, the prusiks gripped stronger on the Isostatic rope with greater forces
developing, ultimately causing the knot at the load to fail. The two nylon ropes displayed far more prusik
slippage, so forces did not get as high. When the load was held by the prusik, the Isostatic rope displayed
considerably more mantle failures than the nylon ropes, and in two observations, the rope was cut. These
observations raise the question of if the different results are caused by the different fiber properties (e.g.,
polyester has a lower melting point, so prusik compression is causing failure due to heat generation and
partial melting?).
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Consequences For Rigging Practice:
It is important to know how your equipment behaves during extreme loading because results vary
depending on the equipment used. Readers are encouraged to do their own testing (back yard testing is
great!!!) and publish the answers with ITRS or other permanent archive. Only three gear combinations
were used here, primarily focusing on the equipment used in organized cave rescue in the US. The
National Cave Rescue Commission gear caches primarily contain PMI Classic Pro EZ (EZ Bend) and
PMI Classic Sport Max (Pit Rope) rope, so this study was performed to determine how these ropes
behave for the author’s most frequent rescue rigging needs. However, these are certainly not the only rope
types in use in the US!
The author was taught that when prusiks are loaded they slip around 5.3kN (1200 lbs), thus
reducing the forces a system experience. In this way prusiks limit the load the system experiences during
loading. This phenomenon was called the “prusik clutch”. If prusiks behave in this way, prusiks would
not ever fail during a haul, but slip whenever overloaded. The results presented here show that the prusik
clutch phenomenon works only sometimes. While all the systems observed did display prusik slip under
load, prusiks slipped at different values, slippage occurred at different frequencies with continued loading,
and system component failure was not predictable based on prusik slip behavior. This means that a
slipped prusik generally indicates the system is overloaded, but it is unclear how the system will react to
continued loading. When teaching the prusik clutch concept, it is crucial to point out that prusiks do not
slip at the same kN or lbs value (there is variability) depending on the equipment used, and further clutch
behavior cannot be reliably relied upon to prevent breakage of system components, unless the prusik and
rope combination has been tested to see if continual slippage will occur (e.g., Classic Sport Max and 8mm
accessory cord).
Haul systems may have lower strengths than expected, so your SSSF may not be what you think.
Breaking the systems you use, and publishing the data, can help identify what SSSFs are being used in
practice.
It is possible to generate high forces in hauling operations. However, to do so requires ignoring
some big warning signs, the first of which is that it is incredibly difficult to raise the load! If hauling is
difficult, rather than adding mechanical advantage or haul team members, reduce friction in the system. In
other words, pay attention to the system in operation, when it gets too hard to haul, fix how the system is
rigged, rather than hauling so hard that prusiks slip. While this may seem trite, we have all heard stories
of systems rigged so tightly that prusiks slipped or “smoked” as they slid down the rope.
Acknowledgements:
This research would not have been possible without the continuing support of both PMI and CMC. They
are wonderful examples of cooperation between business competitors who both support research that can
improve the safety of all rescuers. Both should be commended for their service to the community. PMI
donated the software observed and CMC provided the facilities and personnel to facilitate data
acquisition. Cedric Smith and Mike Hohlmeier helped with data acquisition, and Sarah Truebe helped
manage samples and data throughout. In addition, Sarah Truebe provided invaluable editorial suggestions,
though all mistakes are solely the responsibility of the author.
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Literature Cited:
Black, D., 2013. Canyoneering: A Guide to Techniques for Wet and Dry Canyons, Second Edition,
Falcon Guides, Guilford, Connecticut
Brennan, K., 1999. Rope Rescue for Firefighting, Fire Engineering Books
Briggs, Tom, 2013. Vertical Academy, Briggs, Milton Keynes, UK
Brown, M.G., 2000. Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems, Delmar, Thompson Learning, United
States
CMC Rescue, 1997. Rope Rescue Manual Field Guide, Third Edition, CMC Rescue Inc., Santa Barbara
California
Fasulo, D., and Clelland, M., 2011. Self-Rescue, Second Edition, Falcon Guides, Guilford, Connecticut
Federation Francaise de Speleologie, 2006. Cave Rescuer’s Manual, English Edition, Beta, France.
Frank, J.A., 2014. CMC Rope Rescue Manual, Revised Fourth Edition, CMC Rescue Inc., Santa Barbara,
California
Frank, J.A., 1998. CMC Rope Rescue Manual, Third Edition, CMC Rescue Inc., Santa Barbara,
California
Hempel, John, Fregeau-Conover, Annette, 2001, On Call: A complete Reference for Cave Rescue, 2001
Edition, National Speleological Society, Huntsville, Alabama
Hudson, Steve, Lawrence, Judi, 1988, Manual of U.S. Cave Rescue Techniques, Second Edition, National
Speleological Society, Huntsville, Alabama
Lipke, R., 1997. Technical Rescue Riggers Guide, Revised Edition, Conterra Technical Systems Inc.,
Bellingham, Washington
Marbach, G., and Tourte, B., 2002. Alpine Caving Techniques: A Complete Guide to Safe and Efficient
Caving, First English Edition, Urs Widmer, Switzerland
Matthews, J., 2009. Technical Rescuer: Rope Levels I and II, Delmar, Cengage Learning, Clifton Park,
New York
Merchant, D., 2007. Life On A Line: The Underground Rope Rescue Manual, Published by Lulu.com
Mauthner, Kirk, 2014, Moving Beyond 10:1 SSSF, Introducing Force Limiting Systems and Managing
the Right Risk at the Right Time, International Technical Rescue Symposium, Denver, Colorado,
November 6-9, 2014, 4 pages
Pendley, R., 2003. The Essential Technical Rescue Field Operations Guide, Third Edition, Desert Rescue
Research, Arizona
Rhodes, Pat, 2013. A Practitioner’s Study: About Rope Rescue Rigging, Rhodes
Roop, M., Vines, T., Wright, R., 1998. Confined Space and Structural Rope Rescue, Mosby Inc.
Shepherd, N., 2007. The Complete Guide to Rope Techniques: A Comprehensive Handbook for Climbers,
Falcon Guides, Guilford, Connecticut
Smith, B., and Padgett, A., 1996. On Rope: North American Vertical Rope Techniques, New Revised
Edition, National Speleological Society, Huntsville Alabama
Tyson, A., and Loomis, M., 2006. Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvised Solutions for Serious Situations,
Mountaineers Books, Seattle, Washington
Vines, T., and Hudson, S., 2004a. High Angle Rescue Techniques, Third Edition, Elsevier Mosby, St.
Louis, Missouri
Vines, T., and Hudson, S., 2004b. Field Guide to Accompany: High Angle Rescue Techniques, Third
Edition, Elsevier Mosby, St. Louis, Missouri
Warild, A., 1990. Vertical: A Technical Manual for Cavers, Second Edition, Speleological Research
Council Ltd, Sydney, Australia
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Sample # Observed
Peak Load
(lbs)
Scaled
Peak Load
(lbs)
Breaking
Strength
(kN)
Prusik Slippage Notes Location of Failure
7-7-I 2947 4421 19.7 Two major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to knot failure
8-8-I 2878 4317 19.2 Three major prusik slips prior to knot failure
9-9-I 2924 4386 19.5 One major prusik slip and two small prusik slips prior to knot failure
10-10-I 2966 4449 19.8 Two major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to knot failure
11-11-I 2790 4184 18.6 One major prusik slip and two small prusik slips prior to knot failure
12-12-I 2643 3965 17.6 Two major prusik slips and three small prusik slips prior to knot failure
13-13-I 3255 4883 21.7 Two major prusik slips prior to knot failure
14-14-I 2935 4403 19.6 Two major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to knot failure
1-1-I 3154 4731 21.0 One major prusik slip and two small prusik slips prior to knot failure
2-2-I 3285 4928 21.9 Two major prusik slips and two small prusik slips prior to knot failure
3-3-I 3571 5357 23.8 Three major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to knot failure
4-4-I 3272 4908 21.8 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to knot failure
Average 3052 4577 20.4
Std. Dev. 259 389 1.7
Maximum 3571 5357 23.8
Minimum 2643 3965 17.6
Range 928 1392 6.2
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Table 3a: 11.5mm Isostatic rope in hauling configuration.
All samples broke at the
knot (bowline) where the
standing line enters knot
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Sample # Observed
Peak Load
(lbs)
Scaled
Peak Load
(lbs)
Peak
Load
(kN)
Prusik Slippage Notes Location of Failure
15-1-C 2934 4401 13.0 One major prusik slip prior to running out of throw
16-2-C 2567 3851 11.4 One major prusik slip and two small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
17-3-C 3390 5085 15.1 One major prusik slip and three small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
18-4-C 1492 2238 6.6 Continuous slipping (just under 1200 lbs), not stick/slip behavior
19-5-C 1828 2742 8.1 Continuous slipping (around 1300 lbs), not stick/slip behavior
20-6-C 3131 4697 13.9 Two major prusik slips and two small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
22-8-C 3504 5256 15.6 One major prusik slip and four small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
23-9-C 3124 4686 13.9 One major prusik slip and three small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
25-11-C 3210 4815 14.3 Two major prusik slips and two small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
21-7-C 3356 5034 14.9 One major prusik slip and four small prusik slips prior to knot failure
27-12-C 3711 5567 16.5 One major prusik slip and two small prusik slips prior to knot failure
24-10-C 3413 5119 15.2 One major prusik slip and two small prusik slips prior to prusik failure
26-13-C 3682 5523 16.4 One major prusik slip and four small prusik slips prior to prusik failure
Average 3026 4540 13.5
Std. Dev. 682 1023 3.0
Maximum 3711 5567 16.5
Minimum 1492 2238 6.6
Range 2219 3328 9.9
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None
Table 3b: 11mm Classic Pro EZ (EZ Bend) rope in hauling configuration.
Broke at knot where
standing line enters knot
At prusik where load side
strand entered the bridge
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Sample # Observed
Peak Load
(lbs)
Scaled
Peak Load
(lbs)
Peak
Load
(kN)
Prusik Slippage Notes Location of Failure
1-1-P 3001 4502 20.0 Two major prusik slips and seven small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
2-2-P 3502 5253 23.4 Two major prusik slips and four small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
3-3-P 3944 5916 26.3 Two major prusik slips and three small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
4-4-P 3615 5423 24.1 Two major prusik slips and five small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
5-5-P 3615 5423 24.1 Two major prusik slips and five small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
6-6-P 3738 5607 24.9 Two major prusik slips and three small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
7-7-P 3646 5469 24.3 Two major prusik slips and six small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
8-8-P 3658 5487 24.4 Two major prusik slips and four small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
9-9-P 3748 5622 25.0 Two major prusik slips and five small prusik slips prior to running out of throw
10-10-P 1653 2480 11.0 Continuously slipped down the rope with continuous minor stick/slip behavior
11-11-P 1424 2136 9.5 Continuously slipped down the rope with continuous minor stick/slip behavior
Average 3231 4847 21.6
Std. Dev. 870 1305 5.8
Maximum 3944 5916 26.3
Minimum 1424 2136 9.5
Range 2520 3780 16.8
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None
Table 3c: 11mm Classic Sport Max (Pit Rope) rope in hauling configuration.
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Table 4a: 11.5mm Isostatic rope in holding the load configuration.
Sample # Observed Peak
Load (lbs)
Breaking
Strength (kN)
Prusik Slippage Notes Location of
Failure
17-I-L 3220 14.3 Three major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to mantle failure Mantle
18-I-L 3560 15.8 Four major prusik slips and two small prusik slips prior to mantle failure Mantle
19-I-L 3332 14.8 Fourteen major prusik slips and eight small prusik slips prior to prusik failure Prusik
20-I-L 3138 14.0 Four major prusik slips and three small prusik slips prior to mantle failure Mantle
21-I-L 3197 14.2 Three major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
22-I-L 3435 15.3 One major prusik slip and three small prusik slips prior to mantle failure Mantle
23-I-L 3245 14.4 One major prusik slip and two small prusik slips prior to rope failure Rope Cut
24-I-L 3384 15.1 Six major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to mantle failure Mantle
25-I-L 3360 14.9 Ten major prusik slips prior to mantle failure Mantle
26-I-L 3342 14.9 Two major prusik slips prior to mantle failure Mantle
27-I-L 3284 14.6 Six major prusik slips and two small prusik slips prior to mantle failure Mantle
28-I-L 3383 15.0 One small prusik slip prior to mantle failure Mantle
29-I-L 3238 14.4 One major prusik slip and four small prusik slips prior to mantle failure Mantle
30-I-L 3074 13.7 Nineteen major prusik slips prior to running out of throw None
31-I-L 3280 14.6 Two major prusik slips and two small prusik slips prior to rope failure Rope Cut
32-I-L 3214 14.3 Seven major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to mantle failure Mantle
Average 3293 14.6
Std. Dev. 120 0.5
Maximum 3560 15.8
Minimum 3074 13.7
Range 486 2.2
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Table 4b: 11mm Classic Pro EZ (EZ Bend) rope in holding the load configuration.
Sample # Observed Peak
Load (lbs)
Breaking
Strength (kN)
Prusik Slippage Notes Location of
Failure
1-EZ-L 1257 5.6 Continuous slipping, not stick/slip behavior None
2-EZ-L 3642 16.2 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to mantle failure Mantle
3-EZ-L 3508 15.6 Two major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
4-EZ-L 3621 16.1 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
5-EZ-L 3313 14.7 Three major prusik slips prior to mantle failure Mantle
6-EZ-L 3684 16.4 One major prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
7-EZ-L 3482 15.5 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
8-EZ-L 3634 16.2 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
9-EZ-L 3608 16.0 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
10-EZ-L 3181 14.1 Four major prusik slips prior to mantle failure Mantle
11-EZ-L 3568 15.9 Two major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
12-EZ-L 3644 16.2 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
13-EZ-L 3645 16.2 Two major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
14-EZ-L 3558 15.8 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
15-EZ-L 3579 15.9 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
16-EZ-L 3608 16.0 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
Average 3552 15.8
Std. Dev. 137 0.6
Maximum 3684 16.4
Minimum 3181 14.1
Range 503 2.2
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Note: Sample 1-EZ-L was removed when calculating descriptive statistics
because it is a clear outlier in both peak load and system behavior
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Table 4c: 11mm Classic Sport Max (Pit Rope) rope in holding the load configuration.
Sample # Observed Peak
Load (lbs)
Breaking
Strength (kN)
Prusik Slippage Notes Location of
Failure
33-P-L 3520 15.7 Two major prusik slips and one small prusik slip prior to mantle failure Mantle
34-P-L 3222 14.3 Two small prusik slips prior to prusik failure Prusik
35-P-L 3653 16.2 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to mantle failure Mantle
36-P-L 3527 15.7 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to mantle failure Mantle
37-P-L 3424 15.2 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
38-P-L 3532 15.7 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
39-P-L 3749 16.7 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
40-P-L 3574 15.9 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
41-P-L 3258 14.5 Six small prusik slips prior to prusik failure Prusik
42-P-L 3525 15.7 One major prusik slip and one small prusik slip prior to prusik failure Prusik
Average 3498 15.6
Std. Dev. 162 0.7
Maximum 3749 16.7
Minimum 3222 14.3
Range 527 2.3
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