45

DISCOVERING MOROCCO\\\

Brussels Airlines b.there! magazine May 2011Brussels Airlines b.there! magazine May 201144

Marrakech may be a major tourist draw, but venture beyond the Red City’s ancient walls and you’ll discover spectacular mountain ranges, fascinating cultures and luxurious romantic retreats – not to mention the awe-inspiring Sahara Desert. Daniel Allen embarks on a Moroccan adventure

Remoteaccess

Soul food: Perched above the village of Imlil, Kasbah du Toubkal enjoys spectacular views of Mount Toubkal

24 hours from MarrakechJust an hour’s drive from the former imperial city, the High Atlas mountain range marches its way across central Morocco from the Atlantic Ocean to the Algerian border. A trip here is a journey into the heartland of Morocco’s Berbers, the indigenous inhabitants of North Africa’s Maghreb region.

The Dar Tassa Luxury Guesthouse (tel. +212 (0)524 484312, dartassa.com, rooms from €35), opened by Berber

Brahim Barkouche in 2005, nestles on the edge of the Toubkal National Park above the High Atlas village of Tassa Ouirgane and offers the perfect introduction to Berber culture for Marrakech visitors on a short excursion. “I’d dreamed about building a house in the Atlas mountains since I was a child,” explains Barkouche, who grew up in Casablanca. “Just down the road is the house that used to belong to my grandfather, where I spent my school holidays. Dar Tassa – which means ‘The

Brussels Airlines b.there! magazine May 201146

///DISCOVERING MOROCCO

Home of Motherly Love’ in Berber – is a place to get away from the hustle and bustle of our modern world; to reconnect with nature amid this dramatic landscape.”

From slow-cooked tagine and couscous to mint tea and Berber flatbread baked in an alfresco oven, Dar Tassa’s guests can create a range of culinary delicacies on the in-house cooking course. Tassa Ouirgane is also well worth exploring, with picturesque fields of walnut and apple trees, burbling irrigation channels and its own water mill and olive press. Those who wish

to venture further field can hike (or mule) the serpentine pathways of Toubkal National Park, drive to the beautifully preserved, 850-year-old Tin Mal Mosque,or get up close to the endangered Barbary sheep of the nearby Takkerkhort Reserve.

Three days from MarrakechSpend three hours on a coach from the city and you’ll be rewarded with the seaside town of Essaouira and a real breath of fresh air. With its labyrinthine, car-free streets, bohemian atmosphere, bustling port and

With its labyrinthine, car-free streets and bohemian atmosphere, Essaouira is the place to enjoy the fi ner side of maritime Moroccan life

Above: Journey into the High Atlas to discover the culture of the indigenous Berbers

Left: Cooking classes can reap rewards at the Dar Tassa Guesthouse

Right: I spy a seaside retreat – the bustling port town of Essaouira

whitewashed architecture, this is the place to spend a few days enjoying the finer side of maritime Moroccan life.

Walk the ramparts to get a feel for Essaouira’s historical past before getting lost in the maze of cobbled streets. The town’s artisans are famous, and intricately inlaid boxes carved from the wood of the local thuya tree make great souvenirs. Myriad restaurants offer specialities such as sardines and harira (a spicy soup), while seafood enthusiasts should head down to the harbour, where a jumbled mass of fishing boats unload and sell their catch every afternoon – your purchases can then be cooked at nearby eateries.

Essaouira is also a watersports paradise, the strong winds and currents can sometimes interfere with sunbathing and swimming, but they make the town’s

IMAG

ES D

AN

IEL

ALL

EN

Brussels Airlines b.there! magazine May 201148

///DISCOVERING MOROCCO

beaches ideal for kitesurfing and windsurfing. Top spots for shooting the breeze are Essaouira Bay, Sidi Kaouki, Cape Sim and Mouley Bouzertoune, with equipment rental along the beachfront. Strong gusts can make control difficult, however, so beginners are advised to take lessons.

For the ultimate three-day romantic city break, on the other hand, take a taxi from Marrakech in the opposite direction to one of Morocco’s most exclusive properties. With its landscaped gardens, gourmet restaurant, five-star spa and infinity pool, Richard Branson’s Kasbah Tamadot (tel. +212 (0)524 368200, kasbahtamadot.virgin.com, rooms from €395) combines

As the fi rst rays of sun warm the mighty peak of Mount Toubkal, plumes of wood smoke spiral lazily upward through the chill valley air

atmosphere and luxury. Despite boasting all the latest mod cons, it has retained its character. “Our restaurant, Kanoun, offers upscale Moroccan fare, and many guests treat themselves to a traditional Moroccan-style hammam during their stay,” says Jon Brown, managing director of Virgin Limited Edition. “Another popular activity is mule trekking. Traditionally, female mules were preferred as riding animals by the Berber, and we’re proud to offer the friendliest female mules in Morocco.”

One week from MarrakechThe carpet-covered roof of the Kasbah du Toubkal (tel. +33 (0)5 4905 0135,

kasbahdutoubkal.com, rooms from €160), perched above the village of Imlil, enjoys what has to be one of North Africa’s most majestic early-morning vistas. As the first rays of sun warm the mighty peak of Mount Toubkal and its snow-clad massif, plumes of wood smoke begin to spiral lazily upward through the chill valley air.

After a lengthy period of renovation, Kasbah du Toubkal – a former feudal fortress – was opened in 1995. Martin Scorsese was so enamoured of the location that he filmed his 1997 Dalai Lama epic Kundun here, and the hotel’s picture-postcard setting and long list of amenities have made it one of Morocco’s most talked about mountain resorts. “A week at Toubkal is perfect for really exploring the High Atlas,” says Berber mountain guide Moustafe Belkasse. “There are a wide range of trekking possibilities, from short rambles through colourful local villages to more demanding multi-day treks and an ascent of the 4167-metre Mount

High life: the super-lux Kasbah Tamadot in the heart of the mountains

FR Porte d’accèsDaniel Allen laisse Marrakech derrière lui et

s’embarque dans d’autres aventures marocaines

24 heures hors de Marrakech

A une heure de route de Marrakech, découvrez la chaine du Haut Atlas, au cœur de la région des peuples berbères. La luxueuse résidence Dar Tassa (dartassa.com), en bordure du parc national de Toubkal, est un lieu de séjour idéal. Les visiteurs pourront s’y adonner aux plaisirs de la cuisine locale ou aller explorer le village pittoresque de Tassa Ouirgane. Autre programme : une randonnée dans le parc, une visite à la Mosquée Tin Mal, vieille de 850 ans, ou une rencontre avec des mouflons de Barbarie dans la réserve proche de Takkerkhort.

Trois jours hors de Marrakech

Passez trois heures dans un autobus et vous serez récompensé par la vue de la ville côtière d’Essaouira. Avec ses rues labyrinthiques, son atmosphère bohème, son port affairé et ses bâtiments blanchis à la chaux, c’est l’endroit où profiter de la vie en bord de mer au Maroc.

Et si vous recherchez le nec plus ultra, prenez un taxi dans la direction opposée, vers l’une des propriétés les plus exclusives du Maroc : la Kasbah Tamadot de Richard Branson (kasbahtamadot.virgin.com). Vous serez subjugué par ses jardins paysagers, son restaurant gastronomique et son spa cinq étoiles.

Une semaine hors de Marrakech

Perchée au sommet du village de Imlil, près du Mont Toubkal, la Kasbah du Toubkal (kasbahdutoubkal.com) offre une des vues les plus époustouflantes d’Afrique du Nord. « Une semaine à Toubkal, c’est parfait pour explorer le Haut Atlas, » explique Moustafe Belkasse, un guide de montagne berbère.

Pour un vrai goût d’aventure, toutefois, rejoignez le Sahara marocain, où de nombreuses agences organisent des circuits. A quatre heures de route de Marrakech, Ouarzazate est la porte d’accès à ce désert.

NL ToegangspoortDaniel Allen laat Marrakech achter voor

nog meer Marokkaans avontuur

24 uur weg van Marrakech

Op een uurtje rijden van Marrakech ligt de Hoge Atlas – thuisland van de Marokkaanse Berbers. Het luxepension Dar Tassa (dartassa.com) bij het Toubkal Natuurreservaat is de gedroomde plek om te overnachten. De gasten kunnen lokale lekkernijen leren bereiden, het schilderachtige Tassa Ouirgane verkennen, de kronkelpaden van het park bewandelen, de 850 jaar oude Tin Mal-moskee bezoeken of in het Takkerkhort-natuurreservaat Barbarijse schapen van dichtbij bewonderen.

Drie dagen weg van Marrakech

De drie uur durende busrit naar Essaouira loont beslist de moeite: het doolhof, de autoloze straten, de bohemienachtige sfeer, de bedrijvige haven en de witgekalkte architectuur maken van deze kuststad de ideale plek om te genieten van het Marokkaanse kustleven.

Voor de ultieme romantische uitstap neemt u een taxi die u naar een van de meest luxueuze eigendommen in Marokko brengt: Tamadot – de kasba van Richard Branson (kasbahtamadot.virgin.com), met landschapstuinen, een fijnproeversrestaurant en een vijfsterrenkuuroord.

Eén week weg van Marrakech

De kasba van Toubkal (kasbahdutoubkal.com) biedt een van de mooiste uitzichten in Noord-Afrika en prijkt hoog boven het dorp Imlil, in de buurt van de berg Toubkal. “Een week in Toubkal is ideaal om de Hoge Atlas te verkennen,” verklaart de Berberse berggids Moustafa Belkasse.

Voor echt avontuur moet u naar de Marokkaanse Sahara. Heel wat bedrijven organiseren woestijnuitstappen, maar u kunt ook zelf in enkele uren tijd van Marrakech naar Ouarzazate rijden – de toegangspoort tot de Sahara.

///DISCOVERING MOROCCO

Toubkal. Mule support can be arranged for bags and people, and trekkers can opt for local homestays or luxury accommodation in our trekking lodge.”

If it’s real frontier adventure you’re after, though, the Sahara Desert – covering more than 9 million square kilometres of North Africa in its desiccated embrace – is unmissable. Sandwiched between the Anti-Atlas mountains and the Algerian border, the towering dunes and star-filled nights of the Moroccan Sahara can be easily reached from Marrakech. Extended trekking in the desert here is as much a meditative experience as a voyage into the unknown.

Many tour companies organise desert adventures, including Around Morocco (aroundmorocco.com) and Vamos Al Desierto (vamosaldesierto.com). But if you decide to self-drive from the city, you’ll reach the town of Ouarzazate, the gateway to the Moroccan Sahara, in about four hours.

You should allow time, however, to stop off at the UNESCO-listed, mud-brick city of Aït-Benhaddou en route. Beyond Ouarzazate, the two main desert towns are Merzouga and Zagora. Merzouga is more developed, with the mighty dunes of Erg Chebbi a stone’s throw away. The dunes around Zagora take a bit of getting to, but provide a more isolated experience. Camel treks and overnight camps can be arranged in both locations, but you’d be advised to book ahead.

From its surf-pounded Atlantic shoreline to a dramatic desert interior, Morocco is a rich and varied land that rewards the intrepid traveller with both adventure and culture. However long you spend away from Marrakech, a Moroccan adventure is sure to be time well spent.

Fly to Marrakech from just

€139* return, taxes included.

brusselsairlines.com€139*

FROM JUST

RETURN,TAXES INCLUDED

*PRI

CES

QUO

TED

ARE

FOR

A RE

TURN

TIC

KET

IN B

.LIG

HT

ECO

NO

MY

FRO

M O

R TO

BRU

SSEL

S, A

LL TA

XES

AND

FEE

S IN

CLU

DED

, IF

BOO

KED

ON

BRU

SSEL

SAIR

LINE

S.CO

M. T

ICKE

TS A

RE N

OT C

HAN

GEA

BLE,

NO

R RE

FUN

DABL

E. P

RICE

S AR

E SU

BJEC

T TO

CH

ANG

E W

ITH

OU

T PR

IOR

NOT

ICE

IMAG

E G

ETTY

IMAG

ES

Final frontier: the Moroccan Sahara offers a meditative experience

Brussels Airlines b.there! magazine May 201150