recipes from jam it, pickle it, cure it by karen solomon

8/14/2019 Recipes from Jam It, Pickle It, Cure It by Karen Solomon

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KAREN SOLOMONPhotography by JENNIFER MARTIN

AND OTHER COOKING PR

jam it, pickle it,cure it

TEN SPEED PRESSBerkeley


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Copyright 2009 by Karen SolomonPhotography copyright 2009 by Jennifer Mar tin

All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprintof the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.www.crownpublishing.comwww.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarksof Random House, Inc.

Quick Pickled Daikon with Lemon (page 38) appeared originally in theSan Francisco Chronicle .

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data on le with publisher.

ISBN 978-1-58008-958-6

Printed in China

Cover and text design by Betsy Stromberg Food styling by Karen Shinto

11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

First Edition

Disclaimer: Some of the recipes in this book include raw eggs, meat, or sh. When these foods are consumed raw, there isalways the risk that bacteria, which is killed by proper cooking, may be present. For this reason, when serving these foods raw,always buy certied salmonella-free eggs and the freshest meat and sh available from a reliable grocer and store them in therefrigerator until they are served. Because of the health risks associated with the consumption of bacteria that can be presentin raw eggs, meat, and sh, these foods should not be consumed by infants, small children, pregnant women, the elderly, or any

persons who may be immunocompromised.

www.TenSpeedPress.com
http://www.crownpublishing.com/http://www.tenspeed.com/http://www.tenspeedpress.com/http://www.tenspeed.com/http://www.crownpublishing.com/


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To purchase a copy of

Jam It, Pickle It,Cure It

visit one of these online retailers:

ww.TenSpeedPress.com
http://www.randomhouse.com/catalog/display.pperl?isbn=9781580089586&ref=other_scribd-pdf-random-jamitp-0110http://www.powells.com/biblio/62-9781580089586-0http://www.indiebound.org/book/9781580089586http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2665379-10568661?url=http://www.borders.com/online/store/TitleDetail?sku=158008958&cmpid=pub-rh-56http://search.barnesandnoble.com/Jam-It-Pickle-It-Cure-It/Karen-Solomon/e/9781580089586&afsrc=1&lkid=J28248944&pubid=K124596&byo=1http://www.amazon.com/Jam-Pickle-Cure-Cooking-Projects/dp/1580089585?tag=randohouseinc2-20http://www.tenspeedpress.com/


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vi

acknowledgments xi

introduction 1

1 munch it CRACKERS, CHIPS, AND DIPS

Basic Crackers, Breadsticks, and Flatbread 5Baked Potato Chips 7Fried Potato Chips 9

Cheese Chips 11Classic Black Bean Dip 12White Bean Dip 13

2 bottle itALL MANNER OF CONDIMENTS

Infused Oil 16Basic Vinaigrette 17Severely Hot (or Not) Sauce 18Regular Ol Tomato Ketchup (but Better) 20Orange Yogurt Dressing 21Oregano and Cumin Dressing 22

Tahini Goddess Dressing 23Buttermilk Dressing 24Caesar Dressing 25Mustard 26Mayonnaise 27

contents

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contents vii

3 brine it PICKLES AND OLIVES

Pickled Green Beans 33Olives 34Stuffed Olives 35Super-Fast Thai Cucumber Salad 37Quick Pickled Daikon with Lemon 38Kimchee 39

4 noodle it EASY PASTA, THREE WAYS

Basic Pasta Dough 44Simple Tomato Sauce 45Meat, Cheese, and Spinach Filling 46Ravioli 47Lasagne 50Tagliatelle 51

5 hook it PRESERVED AND CURED FISH Gravlax 54Salt Cod 56Smoked Trout 57

6 hunt itPRESERVED AND CURED MEAT

Smoked Turkey 62Bacon 63Lard 67

Sausage Patties 68Sausage Links 70Beef Jerky 72



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viii jam it, pickle it, cure it

7 milk itBUTTER AND CHEESE

Butter 76Yogurt Cheese 78Queso Blanco 79Ricotta Cheese 80Ricotta Salata 82

8 jam itPRESERVES, CURDS, AND FRUIT BUTTER

Strawberry Jam 86Orange Marmalade 92Apple Butter 93Lemon Curd 95

9 sugar itSWEET TREATS

Toaster Tarts 98Marshmallows 101Apple Fruit Leather 103

Chocolate Sandwich Cookies 104Graham Crackers 107

10 freeze it FROZEN CONFECTIONS

Mango and Lime Pops 110Watermelon Pops 112Arnold Palmer Pops 113Chocolate Fudge Pops 114Coconut Cream Pops 115Burnt Salted Caramel Icies 116Banana Cream Pops 117



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contents ix

11 unwrap itMAKING CANDY

Senior Mints 120Toffee 122Coconut Almond Candy Bars 123Peanut Butter Cups 125

12 drink itHARD AND SOFT BEVERAGES

Jamaican Ginger Beer 129Chai 130Orange-Flavored Vodka 131Orange Liqueur 132Toasted Walnut Brandy 133Winter Solstice Brew 134

Hot and Sweet Liqueur 135Fruit and Nut Brandy 136Potent Iced Tea with Lemon Cordial 138Limoncello 139Limoncello di Crema 140Rumkirschen 141

index 142



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1

introduction When I was growing up, the ber-processed Miracle Whipmy familys 1978 God-given bath for tuna shliterallymade me gag as it soddened an otherwise respectablesandwich. To my mind, that gooey sweet stuff sitting in jarsfor untold ages, plagued with the gunk of calcium disodium,low-grade soybean oil, and modied food starch, taintedeverything it touched. And today, decades later, post Chez Panisse, and the organic, Slow Food, and local eatingmovements, if you peek inside most American pantries,youll still nd them stuffed with prefab food.

Ever since Ive presided over my own kitchen larder,I have worked to duck the stranglehold of Big Mayo in myday-to-day culinary life. My delight in experimentation,insatiable food lust, and perseverance helped me thinkoutside the jar. Like any junkie, I have single-mindedlyforged my way through homemade salad dressings, bakedgoods, and, eventually, simple cheeses and sausages.They were good! I got cocky, served it al l with pr ide, andwent back to the kitchen for more.

Ive now had the pleasure of writing the book that Ivelooked for in vain for years. Id always hoped to nd thoseGirl Scout blueprints to the kitchenthe culinary equiva-lent of knot tying, re starting, and good citizenshipthatwould be the building blocks for everyday eating. But

usually when I wanted to make for myself the staples webought at the storebasic mustard, simple crackers, orday-to-day cooking shortening, for exampleId haveto dig through ancient recipe texts, obscure farm manu-

als, and the food-geek blogosphere. Stocking the pantryand our own refrigerator doors with ingredients that weremade by hand for centuries should not be so cumber-some. Here, I hope to share the joy of real, obtainableDIY kitchen crafting projects at their best. I hope you aremoved to grab a wooden spoon and a jar because foodcrafts you can eat and share are funway more fun thanstringing together a macaroni necklace.

Admittedly, some of these projects are pretty involved,and no one is expecting you to bust out the Kitchen-Aid

just for a couple dollops of good salad dressing. But whenthe desire to get crafty strikes, I want this to be your go-tobook. Throughout, Ive tried to make the entire creative

process as simple, fun, and foolproof as possible, usingeveryday ingredients and equipment whenever theycan serve.

While this book hardly answers the question, Whatsfor dinner?, it can help you (and your craftivist friends)take advantage of your creativity, keeping your pantriesand fridges stocked with high quality, sharable staples andreasonably obtained extravagances. I am not a chef, andnever would I claim to be. I am, however, curious, creative,inventive, and really into making stuffstuff I can eat andget others to eatwith my own hands. Mainly I am a

crafter and food is my medium of choice. I truly hope thatsomething in these chapters will inspire your own culinaryDIY spirit. Best of luck kicking the lid off Big Mayo.



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Salt is a wondrous thing; many chefs think of it as their most prized ingredi-ent. Its ability to transform food is a miracle of culinary science that we willexplore in the easy-to-make olive and pickle recipes in this chapter.

You do not need a batch of fancy equipment, a barrel of sticky wax, orsupreme culinary skills to pickle and brine. It neednt take all day and afarmhouse kitchen of labor. In fact, its one of the simplest ways to prolongyour seasonal produce. While more often than not pickles are ready in just afew days, they can sometimes be ready in only a couple of hours, or can takeas long as a few weeks. And the patient student of salt will be rewarded withsome of the best olives youve ever tasted and crisp, acidic cold vegetablesthat add bite and tang to any meal. Nowhere will you nd the addition ofarticial colors or the heft of too much sugar that is typical in mass-producedcanned products. The best part is that a lit tle work now will pay off withbrined, chilled, and pickled results later. Brining is one of humanitys oldest kitchen projects, and one thats morethan ready to shake off its old shawls. Pucker up, sweetie, and get that salt-

shaker a-shakin.

PICKLES AND OLIVES



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brine it 33

pickled green beans

A Bloody Mary without this must-have garnish would be a lonely brunch cocktail, achingfor the snap, salt, and brine of these crisp and piquant pickles. The ingredients for this

recipe arent complicatedyou probably have the spices on handand in a few shortminutes of assembly youll have fresh, avor-forward pickles on hand for weeks to come.If green beans arent your thing, you can use this recipe to pickle cucumber spears, carrotsticks, small cauliower orets, orfor the bold and zesty among youwhole garlic cloves.

PREP AHEAD Youll need 3 clean pint jars with lids. You canbuy canning jars with vacuum-seal lids (look for Ball or Kerr

brand jars), or you can reuse jars from your pantry. If your jars arent new, make sure they are free of rust and odorsand the lids seal tightly. When it comes to labeling, Im astrip-of-masking-tape-and-black-Sharpie kind of a gal.However, if you are artistically inclined, feel free to createnifty labels either on stickers or tied a round the mouth ofthe jar. Fancy or not, its important that you prepare somekind of label that lists the contents and date prepared.

3 pounds green beans, stems intact, washed and dried

9 cloves garlic, crushed

3 cinnamon sticks

3 bay leaves

3 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds

3 tablespoons brown mustard seeds

6 tablespoons dill seeds

3 tablespoons black peppercorns

6 teaspoons kosher salt 1 1 / 2 to 2 1 / 4 cups distilled white vinegar

INSTRUCTIONS Add one-third of the green beans, garlic,spices, and salt to each jar. Fill each jar halfway with vin-

egar (about 1/2 to 3/4 cups). Top off each jar with cool water.Seal each jar with a lid, and shake gently to dissolve the salt

and distribute the spices. Refrigerate for at least 3 days.

HOW TO STORE ITRefrigerated pickled green beans will beat their prime for 2 weeks but will keep for about 1 month.

HOW TO CAN IT Carefully read through the canning direc-tions on page 88 before you begin. In a nonreactive sauce-

pan, combine the vinegar, 6 cups water, and the salt andbring to a rolling boil to dissolve the salt. Divide the beans,garlic, bay leaves, and spices evenly among 3 sterilized

pint ja rs as directed, leaving about 1-inch headspace. Pourthe boiling vinegar solution into the jars, immersing thebeans fully and leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Process in ahot-water bath for 10 minutes at altitudes up to 1,000 feet,15 minutes at altitudes up to 6,000 feet, and 20 minutes ataltitudes over 6,000 feet.

VARIATION For super-duper garlic pickles, substitute6 cloves crushed garlic and 4 extra tablespoons of dillseeds for the cinnamon, bay leaves, and mustard seeds.

Vampires need not apply.

Makes 3 pints

TIME COMMITMENT

3 days



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unwrap it 125

peanut butter cups

Chocolate and peanut butter together create one of my favorite candy confections. This version has everything going for it: a sweet and salty peanut butter lling and the oppor-

tunity for a high-quality chocolate of your own choosing to balance it out. No actual cook-ing is required here, making this a good choice for making chocolate when the weather isscorching. For better avor, roast your own peanuts or freshen roasted peanuts in a heavyskillet until lightly browned. Youll need paper (or silicone) cupcake pan inserts for thisrecipe, which, along with the nished product, create a handsome gift.

FILLING

1 1 / 3 cups fresh roasted and salted peanuts

2 teaspoons honey

1 teaspoon neutral vegetable oil, like canola or sunower

2 tablespoons confectioners sugar 1 / 2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 / 2 teaspoon kosher salt

COATING

2 cups chocolate chips or chopped chocolate

INSTRUCTIONS To make the peanut butter lling, placethe liners in your cupcake pan, and have a holding dishstanding by. In a food processor, puree the peanuts for3 to 4 minutes, until very smooth. Add the honey, oil, sugar,

vanilla, and salt and puree until completely combined,scraping down the sides as you work.

Take about 2 teaspoons of the peanut butter mixtureinto your clean hands, roll into a ball, and atten into adisk that will t into the center of the cupcake liner butnot touch the sides. Shape the remaining 11 centers. The

peanut butter should be evenly distributed.

To prepare the coating, in a microwave-safe bowl heat

the chocolate on high for 1 minute, and stir well with a forkto distribute the heat. Heat for 1 minute more, and stir again.Heat for an additional 30 to 60 seconds, stirring thoroughly.The chocolate should be melted and quite satiny, and youshould be able to drop it in ribbons from the end of the fork. To assemble the cups, working quickly, spoon about2 teaspoons of melted chocolate into the bottom of eachliner, being careful to coat the bottom in a complete, thin

layer, and to coat the sides about halfway up. Gently dropeach of the peanut butter disks into the center of a cup,and give it a gentle tap to secure it in the chocolate (butdont push it al l the way through to the bottom). Covereach center with an additional teaspoon of chocolate, cov-ering the top completely and allowing it to surround thesides of the peanut butter, enclosing it completely. Gentlysmooth out the tops with the back of the spoon or bygiving the pan a gentle shake. Let sit, undisturbed, for atleast 4 hours, until the cups harden completely.

HOW TO STORE IT Devour immediately, or store up to2 weeks in an airtight container. Do not refrigerate.

Makes 12 individual cups

TIME COMMITMENT

5 hours


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To purchase a copy of

Jam It, Pickle It,Cure It

visit one of these online retailers:

ww.TenSpeedPress.com
http://www.randomhouse.com/catalog/display.pperl?isbn=9781580089586&ref=other_scribd-pdf-random-jamitp-0110http://www.powells.com/biblio/62-9781580089586-0http://www.indiebound.org/book/9781580089586http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2665379-10568661?url=http://www.borders.com/online/store/TitleDetail?sku=158008958&cmpid=pub-rh-56http://search.barnesandnoble.com/Jam-It-Pickle-It-Cure-It/Karen-Solomon/e/9781580089586&afsrc=1&lkid=J28248944&pubid=K124596&byo=1http://www.amazon.com/Jam-Pickle-Cure-Cooking-Projects/dp/1580089585?tag=randohouseinc2-20http://www.tenspeedpress.com/

recipes from jam it, pickle it, cure it by karen solomon

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