radiant floor heating installation … floor heating installation techniques time-saving techniques...
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RADIANT FLOOR HEATING INSTALLATION TECHNIQUESTIME-SAVING TECHNIQUES FOR LASTING RESULTS
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 2
RAUPEX PIPE AND MANIFOLD INSTALLATION
- “Wet” installation methods- Pipe placement patterns- “Dry” installation methods- Manifold locations- Sleeving of pipes- Step-by-step installation process- Avoiding difficulties
OUTLINE
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POURED OR “WET” CONSTRUCTION
- Slab or overpour applications - Thermal mass is poured into
place around RAUPEX pipe- Structural concrete mix
(fibers may be used)- “Lightweight” concrete: sand
mix, dry pack (not aerated)- Gyp-Crete, Hacker floor
systems
TYPES
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POURED OR “WET” CONSTRUCTION
- Pipes to be fastened every 2 feet (typical) or as needed to prevent “floating”- For medium thick slabs (4”) pipes may be installed at the bottom or in the middle- For thick slabs (6” and above), pipes are normally installed in mid-point, unless there is a
risk of cutting/drilling the pipes- Then move them lower in the slab to avoid damage- Coverage over pipe must be minimum 3/4” for concrete strength and to avoid striping
- Entrained air in concrete is bad for heat transfer - Avoid concrete with entrained air
- Wet thermal mass has lots of moisture which needs to evaporate- Must let it dry before hardwood flooring is installed
- Floor loading of poured thermal mass is critical (13-18 lb/ft2 dead load for 1 1/2” overpour)- Depending on the mix; 2,000 ft2 = 30,000 lbs- Floor must be designed to carry this load
- Coordination of trades is important- Insulation, wire mesh, double baseplates, “dams” around holes, etc. all must be done
in the proper order
GENERAL RULES
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POURED OR “WET” CONSTRUCTION
- Normal slab design- Pipe located within slab (midway) or at bottom- Various fasteners available- Typical layers:
Slab with RAUPEXRigid insulationVapor barrierCrushed stone
SLAB CUTAWAY, TYPICAL
1 1
22
3
34
4
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SLAB-ON-GRADE “WET”
Why so important?- For even heat transfer towards space, floor temperatures- To minimize heat loss to earth (below, backfill) and air (at edges)- To decrease response time and increase efficiency
General Rule*:- R-value below the slab should be at least 5 times R-value above the slab
IMPORTANCE OF INSULATION
*Note: 2” insulation (R-10) is recommended at slab edges and below slabs on earthSuspended slabs (over cold air) will require even more insulation
Example: Commercial carpet with pad installed above slab, total R value = 1.5Use minimum R-7.5 insulation below (1 1/2” of extruded polystryene) and 2” at cold edges
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SLAB-ON-GRADE “WET”TYPICAL CONSTRUCTION LAYERS FOR HEATED SLAB FLOORS
Vapor Barrier
Thermal Mass with pipes
Edge
*In
sula
tion
*Note: 2” insulation (R-10 for EPS) is recommended at slab edges and below slabsSuspended slabs (over unconditioned cold air) will require even more insulation
Heated Space
Sub-Grade
Bottom* Insulation
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SLAB-ON-GRADE “WET” WITH RAILFIX
EXAMPLE: STYROFOAM® SM BOARDSTHESE GO DIRECTLY ONTO EPS INSULATION
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SLAB-ON-GRADE “WET” WITH SCREW CLIPS AND RAILFIX
RAILFIX
Screw Clip
THESE GO DIRECTLY ONTO EPS INSULATION
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SLAB-ON-GRADE “WET” WITH FIXING RAIL OR RAUTACKERTHESE GO DIRECTLY ONTO EPS INSULATION
RAUTACKERRAUTACKER staple
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SLAB-ON-GRADE “WET” WITH NYLON TIESREHAU NYLON PIPE TIES TIED TO WIRE MESH
- REHAU nylon pipe ties - 50 lb. capacity, installed every 2 – 3 feet maximum- Ensure wire mesh has no sharp edges
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SLAB-ON-GRADE “WET” WITH NYLON TIESREHAU NYLON PIPE TIES TIED TO WIRE MESH
- REHAU nylon pipe ties - 50 lb. capacity, installed every 2 – 3 feet maximum- Ensure wire mesh has no sharp edges
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”
- Pipe is fastened to subfloor- 1 1/2” total height (typical)- Minimum coverage must be 3/4”
above pipes- To avoid heat striping and
weak concrete- Thin thermal mass overpour may
be gypsum cement concrete or portland cement concrete with small aggregate (3/8” or smaller)
ALSO A “WET” INSTALLATION
- Ensure that subfloor is designed for the “dead weight” of 13-18 lb/ft2
- Clarify definition of “lightweight”- Concrete is never light!
1 1/2” totalMinimum 3/4”above pipes
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”
- Very common installation technique- Freedom to lay pipe according to room design- Use proper stapler tools to avoid crimping or
dimpling pipe- REHAU Pneumatic Stapler by SENCO
GENERAL NOTES
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”
- Can also use pipe talons
GENERAL NOTES
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”
Heated space below:- R-value in the joist cavity below a heated
overpour should be at least 5 times R-value above (flooring + floor)
Examples:- Tile above, Minimum R-5 in joist cavity- Carpet above, Minimum R-11 in joist cavity
Unheated space below:- R-value in the joist cavity below a heated
overpour should be at least 10 times R-value above (flooring + floor)
Examples:- Tile above, Minimum R-13 in joist cavity- Carpet above, Minimum R-19 in joist cavity
IMPORTANCE OF INSULATION
- Heat goes to cold and will go down without proper direction
- Insulation in the joist cavity is crucial to comfort, performance and response
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”
- Install all baseplates to mark walls before laying pipe
- Assists routing pipes- May have to install
loadbearing walls at the same time
- Use double baseplates:- Extra-wide baseplates on the
bottom, standard size on top- 2” x 8” bottom plate at
outside walls- 2” x 6” bottom plate at inside
walls- For leveling screed- For carpet tack strips
TIPS
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”
- Double baseplates, extra wide (that was not done here)
- Recommend:- 8” wide under 2” x 6” wall- 6” wide under 2” x 4” wall
- Install baseplates to mark walls before laying pipe
- May use pressure-treated lumber, but not necessary
TIPS
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”
- Common with solid hardwood- Benefits of thermal mass- Freedom to lay pipe according to
room design- Install sleepers opposite to
orientation of hardwood- Use caution due to moisture!
- Thermal mass must cure and moisture must be correct before hardwood is installed
- May take 28+ days for curing- Work with flooring contractors
and GC for proper scheduling
“SLEEPERS” FOR HARDWOOD INSTALLATIONS
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”BE SURE TO SEAL OR COVER THE SUBFLOOR FIRST WHEN USING A PORTLAND CEMENT CONCRETE OVERPOUR TO PREVENT BONDING AND SHRINKAGE OF THE CONCRETE
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”GYPSUM CEMENT POURS DIRECTLY ONTO WOOD SUBFLOOR (PUMPED)FLOOR IS USUALLY SEALED FIRST
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SUSPENDED WOOD FLOOR “OVERPOUR”GYPSUM CEMENT POURS DIRECTLY ONTO WOOD SUBFLOOR (PUMPED)FLOOR IS USUALLY SEALED FIRST
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POURED OR “WET” CONSTRUCTION
- Poured thermal mass is a good conductor of heat- Pipes to be fastened every 2 feet (typical) or as needed to prevent “floating”- For medium thick slabs (4”) pipes may be installed at the bottom or in the middle- For thick slabs (6” and above), pipes are normally installed in mid-point, unless there is a
risk of cutting/drilling the pipes- Coverage over pipe must be minimum 3/4” for concrete strength and to avoid striping- Entrained air in concrete is bad for heat transfer - Insulation is crucial to direct the flow of the heat- Wet thermal mass has lots of moisture which needs to evaporate
- Must let it dry before hardwood flooring is installed- Floor loading of poured thermal mass is critical (13-18 lb/ft2 dead load for 1 1/2” overpour)
- Depending on the mix; 2,000 ft2 = 30,000 lbs- Coordination of trades is important
- Insulation, wire mesh, double baseplates, “dams” around holes, etc. all must be done in the proper order
SUMMARY
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PIPE PLACEMENT PATTERNS
1. Serpentine (overpour, slab, joist, sleepers)2. Counterflow Spiral (overpour, slab)
- Helps with bends- Faster installation in the right situation- More even temperature distribution
3. Combinations (overpour, slab)4. Other shapes
THREE TYPES OF PIPE LAYOUTS
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1. SERPENTINE
- Install pipe the “long way” to minimize bends, for faster installation
- Great for rectangular rooms
- Great if there is one outside “cold” wall
- Run hottest water to outside wall
- Floor covering (hardwood) way also dictate the direction
13 x 180-degree bends4 x 180-degree bends
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SERPENTINE
Straight or in L-shape
SIMPLE LAYOUT, EASY INSTALLATION
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SERPENTINEDOUBLE 180- BEND REDUCES SHARP BENDS
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SERPENTINEDOUBLE 180- BEND REDUCES SHARP BENDS
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SERPENTINE‘U’–SHAPE IN SOME AREAS
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SERPENTINEL-SHAPED SERPENTINE
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2. COUNTERFLOW SPIRALEVEN FLOOR TEMPERATURE, REDUCES NUMBER OF TIGHT BENDS, FASTER INSTALLATIONBEST PATTERN IF THERE IS NO OUTSIDE WALL, OR ALL OUTSIDE WALLS
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COUNTERFLOW SPIRALEVEN FLOOR TEMPERATURE, REDUCES NUMBER OF TIGHT BENDS, FASTER INSTALLATIONBEST PATTERN IN LARGE OPEN AREAS
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COUNTERFLOW SPIRALUSE STAPLES OR TALONS
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3. COMBINATIONCORNER ROOMS
OccupiedArea
Supply
Return
PerimeterArea (3 ft.)
OutsideWall
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4. OTHER SHAPES…IN BATHROOMS USE MORE PIPE, NOT LESS. TRY 3/8” RAUPEX FOR FLEXIBILITY
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4. OTHER SHAPES…IT IS IMPORTANT TO FILL THE HEATED SPACE WITH PIPES AND AVOID GAPS (COLD SPOTS)
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CONSTRUCTION JOINTSARRANGE PIPES TO AVOID PASSING THROUGH JOINTS
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JOIST SPACE “DRY” INSTALLATIONS
- No poured screed is involved (“dry”)- Aluminum plates, the air cavity (in joist space) and the subfloor are all parts of the
thermal mass- Aluminum heat transfer plates are very important for efficiency and response
- Can increase efficiency by 20% to 40%
GENERAL RULES FOR JOIST SPACE INSTALLATIONS
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 47
JOIST SPACE “DRY” INSTALLATIONS
Pro’s:- Suitable for retrofit- No structural weight issues- No added moisture
Con’s:- Installation can be difficult and slow- Not the most efficient radiant technique
- Higher water temperatures will be required, as compared with other RFH
- Slower response time compared with pipes installed above the subfloor
- High R-value insulation is critical underneath plates and at ends of cavities
- Below the 2” air gap: - Minimum R-19 over heated space- Minimum R-30 over unheated space
GENERAL RULES FOR JOIST SPACE INSTALLATIONS
Typical 2” x 10” joist construction with 2” air gap.Follow the path of the heat
How does it work?
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 48
JOIST SPACE “DRY” INSTALLATIONS
Light Gauge Heat Transfer Plate
Locking Clip Talon
MAINTAIN 2” AIR GAP BELOW SUBFLOOR FOR FULL HEAT TRANSFER, REDUCED STRIPING
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 49
JOIST SPACE “DRY” INSTALLATIONS
- Uncoiler is very useful in larger areas- Otherwise, 2-3 workers is ideal
- With light gauge plates, install all pipe, then plates
- With heavy gauge plates, install the plates first, then snap in the pipes
- Use protection sleeving at joist penetrations to prevent chafing and possible noise of rapid thermal expansion
- If the design allows, 3/8” RAUPEX O2
Barrier pipe is more flexible than 1/2”pipe, faster to install
- Feel free to use EVERLOC couplings when in a jam Pipe must be
free to move at ends
PE Protection Sleeve
INSTALLATION TIPS
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JOIST SPACE “DRY” INSTALLATIONS
- Heat transfer plates enhance heat distribution- 20 - 40% improvement
- Use 6 screws per light gauge plates- Use 8 screws per heavy gauge plates
- Because staples may work loose over time, and plates would fall down
- Insulation is important (foil face up for radiation)
- Insulation should be 2” away from subfloor (for convection heat transfer)
- Be careful of sharp edges on heat transfer plates. Wear eye and hearing protection when cutting heavy gauge plates. Wear work gloves.
MAINTAIN 2” AIR GAP BELOW SUBFLOOR FOR FULL HEAT TRANSFER, REDUCED STRIPING
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 52
JOIST SPACE “DRY” INSTALLATIONSLIGHT GAUGE PLATES – 2 FEET LONG EACH
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 53
JOIST SPACE “DRY” INSTALLATIONSHEAVY GAUGE PLATES – 4 FEET LONG EACH
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JOIST SPACE OUTPUT – FINITE ELEMENT ANALYSISSAMPLE CALCULATION WITH HEAT TRANSFER PLATESTHEORETICAL JOIST-SPACE SYSTEM WITH R-1.0 FLOOR COVERING
- FEA shows that heat is conducted by Heat Transfer Plates and is distributed more evenly under the entire subfloor and joist cavity
- Lower water temperature, more efficiency, better response time
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 55
JOIST SPACE OUTPUT – FINITE ELEMENT ANALYSIS
- FEA shows that heat is concentrated in the air around the pipes- There is less transfer to subfloor, more striping on floor surface
- Higher water temperature, less efficiency, slower response time
SAMPLE CALCULATION WITHOUT HEAT TRANSFER PLATESTHEORETICAL JOIST-SPACE SYSTEM WITH R-1.0 FLOOR COVERING
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 56
JOIST SPACE “DRY” INSTALLATIONS
- Installation can be difficult and slow depending on obstructions, ceiling height, etc.- Zoning is very difficult since pipes must follow joist bays under several rooms- Perimeter spacing is the same as occupied spacing (determined by joist spacing)
- Usually 8” o-c, sometimes 7”, 9” or 10”- Aluminum heat transfer plates are very important for efficiency and response- High R-value insulation is critical underneath plates and at ends of cavities- Higher water temperatures will be required as compared with above-floor installations- Slower response time compared with pipes installed above the subfloor- Outdoor reset control with continuous circulation is recommended, especially with light
gauge plates, to help avoid expansion noises and to improve response times
SUMMARY
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MANIFOLD LOCATIONS
- Install in the back of a closet, or cabinet- Leave enough room for all pipes to connect- Mount manifold 30-40” above floor in an
accessible location- Position manifold in its “final resting place”
so that pipes are routed correctly- Ex: Build a support along framed walls
MOUNTING
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MANIFOLD LOCATIONS
- Install in the back of a closet, or cabinet- Leave enough room for all pipes to connect- Mount manifold 30-40” above floor in an accessible location- Position manifold in its “final resting place” so that pipes are routed correctly- Ex: On new slabs, make a support with rebar or wood studs
MOUNTING
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MANIFOLD LOCATIONS
- Place in permanent position- Mount 2 - 4 feet above grade- Mount level and secure
- May have to create supports- Leave room for pipe access
- Note pipes passing under wall
ROUTING PIPES
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MANIFOLD LOCATIONS
- Find an opening the correct size- Refer to the dimensional drawing
in the installation brochure- Try to align the pipes!
PLANNING THE LOCATIONS
Not a great example here!
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MANIFOLD LOCATIONSPLANNING THE LOCATIONS THROUGHOUT THE BUILDINGEXAMPLE: OPEN AREA, 2 MANIFOLDS FOR 10 CIRCUITS
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MANIFOLD LOCATIONSPLANNING THE LOCATIONS THROUGHOUT THE BUILDINGEXAMPLE: OPEN AREA, 1 MANIFOLD FOR 10 CIRCUITS
#3
#4
#2
#5
#1
#10 #9 #8 #7
#6
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MANIFOLD LOCATIONSPLANNING THE LOCATIONS THROUGHOUT THE BUILDINGEXAMPLE: OPEN AREA, 1 MANIFOLD FOR 10 CIRCUITS
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MANIFOLD LOCATIONSPLANNING THE LOCATIONS THROUGHOUT THE BUILDINGEXAMPLE: OPEN AREA, 1 MANIFOLD FOR 10 CIRCUITS
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 72
PVC BEND GUIDE INSTALLATION
- Insert pipe into PVC Bend Guide - Use 30” - 40” of pipe to reach
manifold- Adjust all bend guides to same
height and even spacing- These will be partially encased
in concrete and will be visible
STEP TWO
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PVC BEND GUIDE INSTALLATION
- PVC Bend Guides look great when complete- They protect and align the pipe and take
stress off pipe connections
STEP TWO
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INSTALL RAUPEX PIPE
- Bending radius of 5 times the pipe OD without heat; the tightest of all PEX pipes- Bending radius of 3 times the pipe OD when heated; the tightest of all PEX pipes
- Pipes are less likely to kink when bending slowly
21.2510.6252.1252"16.258.1251.6251 1/2"13.756.8751.3751 1/4"11.255.6251.1251"8.754.3750.8753/4"7.503.7500.7505/8"6.253.1250.6251/2"5.002.5000.5003/8"
5x MinimumBend
Diameter in.
5x MinimumBend
Radius in.
Pipe OD (actual) in.
Pipe Size(nominal)
Radius (r) Diameter (2 x r)
r d
STEP FOURTIPS FOR INSTALLING RAUPEX PIPES
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 78
INSTALL RAUPEX PIPE
- Minimum bend radius for RAUPEX pipe is 5 times the pipe diameter when cold
- Bend slowly, especially in cold weather
- Minimum bend radius is 3 times the OD when pipes are heated above 250°F
- Use hot air gun (ONLY) - Heat pipes only without pressure
- Fasten pipe at the beginning, middle and end of each bend to prevent “lifting”
- If pipe tends to lift, add extra fastener(s)
See Page 5-5 REHAU RFH Technical Manual
STEP FOURTIPS FOR INSTALLING RAUPEX PIPES
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 79
INSTALL RAUPEX PIPE
- Attach pipe every 2 - 3 feet using approved fasteners- Ensure pipe is straight and doesn’t “lift”- If pipe seems to float, add more fasteners
- Mark circuit lengths and locations as you go- Insulate pipe tails if necessary
- But don’t weaken the concrete- Don’t cross pipes in “poured” applications
- Don’t weaken the concrete
STEP FOURTIPS FOR INSTALLING RAUPEX PIPES
Saw cut is very close to top of pipes. Add fasteners!
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 80
INSTALL RAUPEX PIPE
- Install sleeves at penetrations- Install sleeves at expansion joints- Joist space sleeving prevents noise
STEP FOURPROTECTION SLEEVING
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INSTALL RAUPEX PIPE
- Start installing pipes on outside walls so that hottest water (from Supply) goes to perimeter areas first
- Keep pipes 6” away from walls, holes, cabinet mounting points, and toilet gaskets
- To reduce heat transfer- For protection of pipes- To prevent softening
STEP FOURTIPS FOR INSTALLING RAUPEX PIPES
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AIR PRESSURE TEST
- Pressurize pipes and manifold(s) together through the manifold
- Normal test pressure is 1 1/2 times working pressure or 100 psi (whichever is higher)
- Re-pressurize at 10 and 20 minutes to allow for expansion of pipes
- Keep constant temperature- Maintain test pressure for 2 hours
- Note: Air tests are safe up to a maximum of 200 psi as long as pipes are used with brass manifolds, EVERLOC fittings, and no plastic components
STEP FIVE (OPTION A)AIR TESTS ARE ALLOWED BY REHAU AND ARE RECOMMENDED IN FREEZING CONDITIONS
REHAU Air Tester Art. 257334
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WHAT NOT TO DO
- Don’t hang manifold crooked or remove from brackets
- Don’t install without brackets - Don’t leave pipe in the sunlight - Don’t cut pipe with a hacksaw or
pocketknife- Don’t let pipe float close to surface- Don’t leave excessive gaps between
pipes to result in cold spots- Don’t forget to clip or move nylon ties
Improper manifold mounting
DON’T LET YOUR JOBS LOOK LIKE THIS!
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 92
WHAT NOT TO DO
- Don’t forget PVC bend guides at manifolds
- Try to line them up!
Improper pipe positioning
DON’T LET YOUR JOBS LOOK LIKE THIS!
© REHAU 17-Mar-10- Page 93
WHAT NOT TO DO
- Don’t mix up Supply and Return- Don’t lose track of pipes- Don’t hang manifold crooked or
remove from brackets- Don’t install without brackets
- Don’t cut pipe with a hacksaw or pocketknife
- Don’t let pipe float close to surface- Don’t leave excessive gaps between
pipes to result in cold spots- Don’t forget to clip or move nylon ties
Improper manifold mounting
DON’T LET YOUR JOBS LOOK LIKE THIS!