An Empirical Research on the

Market Vistas of Silk Products.

------------------------------------------------ - A study on the selected silk product retailers of the Bokakhat Sub-division.

Prakash Deb Roy.

About the author:

CREATED BY:

Prakash Deb Roy.

Registration No. 08000357. Roll. Session.

B.Com. 3rd year with Specialty in International Business.

[Under The Dibrugarh University, Dibrugarh.]

Jogananda Deva Satradhikar Goswami College,

Bokakhat. ASSAM.

Guided by:

Ranjeet Saikia.

Lecturer, Department of Commerce

Jogananda Deva Satradhikar Goswami College, Bokakhat, Assam.

Approved by:

Munin Chandra Phukan.

Head of the Department of Commerce

Jogananda Deva Satradhikar Goswami College, Bokakhat, Assam.

Bivekananda Sarmah.

PRINCIPAL, Jogananda Deva Satradhikar Goswami College, Bokakhat, Assam.

CCCCertificateertificateertificateertificate

It is hereby certified that the given project report, “The

marketing vistas of Silk”, has been prepared solitarily by

Prakash Deb Roy of B.com 3rd year, towards the partial fulfillment of his

three year Bachelor Degree program on Commerce. He has

enthusiastically carried out all the necessary project activities and its

related tasks under my constant guidance and supervision.

This certificate has been endorsed to him for the purpose of

establishing that, the project report submitted by him is completely genuine

and unbiased. The report based on the project is hereby certified as an

authentic piece and is not clichéd from any other published or unpublished

sources. The strategies adopted by him for the accomplishment of the

project work are very impressive and his demeanor during the field activity

is found to be strikingly pleasant.

I appreciate him for the sincere efforts and his dedication for

the accomplishment of the project work and wish him the bright and

successful future.

With best regards,

Ranjeet SaikiRanjeet SaikiRanjeet SaikiRanjeet Saikiaaaa Guide.

Lecturer of Management

Department of Commerce.

Jogananda Deva Satradhikar Goswami College.

[Under The University of Dibrugarh]

Bokakhat. Assam.

Acknowledgement

An Empirical research on the Market Vistas of Silk Products.

- A study on the selected silk product retailers of the Bokakhat Sub-division.

Is my selected topic for the project work, which I have enjoyed a lot

performing the various activities of the field study and data collection and also

derive valued experiences on Research work. This report has been a very special

project for me, which is brought to culmination through the efforts of some very

special people.

At the very outset, I am deeply grateful to my superb Guide,

respected Ranjeet Saikia Sir, for His enthusiastic and unstinted support during

the selection as well as preparation of the Project. His constant support

encourages me to craft the report with the best resources, by selecting the

appropriate information and suitable extracts.

At next, I would like to express my sincere thanks to The Head of

the Department Of Commerce, J.D.S.G. College, Shri Munin Phukan Sir, for

providing me with the precious suggestions in context to the drafting of the

report. In addition to it, I would like to thanks our respected Principal, Shri

Bivekananda Sarmah Sir, for his sensible approval and useful advices regarding

the topic.

Furthermore, I would like to thanks our librarian, Shrimanto

Madhav Borah Sir, as his co-operation and support on providing me with the

necessary information on the topic that stands very beneficial to me. And also I

want to convey my regards to Shri Bidyut Boruah Sir, for his exclusive support

framing the project design and exclusive guidance in gathering the resources.

Moreover, I would like to express my heartiest thanks to those

persons, whom I approach during the course of my field work, for their

courteous replies and effective suggestions and my mother Smt. Alaka Deb Roy

for Her guidance. And the generous thanks to my friend Rituparna for his all

rounded support.

Last but not the least; I would like to offer my cordial thanks to my

associate Rashmirekha for assenting me about most of the traditional and

cultural Assamese garments and fashion outfits.

With best regards,

Prakash Deb Roy. Registration No. 08000357. Roll. Session.

B.Com. 3rd year with Specialty in International Business (IB).

[Under the Dibrugarh University, Dibrugarh.]

Jogananda Deva Satradhikar Goswami College, Bokakhat. ASSAM.

Abstract.

This empirical Research Report was especially concerned with the

identification of the barricades towards the prospective advancement of the

product in local markets. When compared to the existing demand of silk

products at the international markets with the local, of course in rationale, the

potentiality of the product is tend to shows a lower rate of prospects in local

markets.

Being occupying a unique place in the socio-economic life of the

Assamese culture, The Golden Magical Thread, “Silk” is predominantly associated

with the culture and tradition of the State. Even after such acquaintance the

demand for the authentic product has been gradually declining. In the era of

Globalization, instead of serving as a boon for the silk products, the exclusive

access to the foreign markets had just only resulted in the extreme influence of

the foreign nations, especially Western culture and fashion trends, just ruled the

markets this days.

With the aim for sustainable development of Silk, with an objective

towards qualitative and productivity improvement, meeting the requirements of

silk-worm feeding plants, quality seed, cocoon and raw silk, establishing

necessary marketing linkages, The Rural Development sector of the Government

of Assam had initiated various noteworthy projects. Those steps in this field can

be regarded as the successful phases of development of the silk productivity

expansion and qualified emerging of the Assamese Thread, into the world

markets as one of the thriving fabrics form north-east India. The golden magical

thread owing to its distinct look and smooth feel gradually becomes an instant

inspiration for Fashion Designers from all over the world.

Thus, it will not be tentative to consider the Silk industry as the

most promising as well as the flourishing agro-textile based industry of Assam,

for the state which contributes 99 per cent and 63 per cent of the total Muga and

Eri raw silk production of the country. But considering the conventional strategy

of marketing approach towards increasing exports of silk in one way greatly

hampers the societal values of Silk in its homeland. The main reason for such

downfall of demand can be attributed to the high price range of Silk products in

Local markets and definitely lesser access to quality products as major part of

the production is shifted for High-profit yielding exports.

As a means to confiscate such downward budging demand of silk

products and to resort it to favorable situation in Local markets, the new concept

of Market orientation such as Generic Promotion, both at National and

International level along with Motivational Matrix perception should be adopted.

Contents

Part 1 Title Page i

About the Author ii

Certificate iii

Acknowledgement iv

Abstract v

Contents vi

Part 2

2.1 Introduction

2.2 Market Significance of Silk in National and International Markets

2.3 Purpose of the Field Study and its Scope

2.4 Definition of the important terms

2.5 Review of related literature analysis of previous Research Study

Part 3

3.1 Design of the Study

3.2 Procedures used

3.3 Sources of Data

3.4 Methods of Gathering data

3.5 Description of Data Gathering instruments used

Part 4

4.1 Discussion regarding the on-field research

4.2 Interpretation of the tribulations

4.3 Principal Findings and Result

4.4 Recommendations for further research.

4.5 Conclusion

Part 5

5.1 Tables

5.2 Figures

5.3 Snapshots

Part 6

6.1 Bibliography

6.2 Glossary of Terms

6.3 Index.

2.1 Introduction.

Amidst the vicinity of Mighty River Brahmaputra and the mystic

hills of Karbi Anglong, there lies the magnificent town, Bokakhat forming a part

of the rejuvenating Assam. The small town welcomes the sun with a hot and

flavored sip of world famous Tea, hand plucked from the tea-gardens of Behora

and Borsapori which form its eastern topography. Moving to the south, the town

is guarded by the shaman hills of Karbi Anglong and to the northern verge it is

refreshed by the soothing waters from the mighty Brahmaputra. Travelling to

the West, one may have the splendid view of golden sunset, set in the tranquility

of the World Heritage Site, Kaziranga National Park.

Portraying Golaghat as its District, Bokakhat lies precisely at

26.63° North and 93.6° E and has an average elevation of 76 meters (249 feet)

above the sea-level. Forming a part of the Lok Sabha political constituency,

Koliabor, the town has evolved as a proliferating tourist spot, which is also used

by both foreign and national tourist as a halt base.

Regarding demography, as per the 2001 India census, the town of

Bokakhat has a population of 8844. Males make up 54% of the population and

females constitute 46%. The average literacy rate of 78% is higher than the

national average of 59.5%. Male literacy is 83% and female literacy is 73%. 11%

of the populace is less than 6 years of age.

Thus, the town of Bokakhat also holds a special mention in respect

of the Magical Thread known as Silk. Owing to the confluence of tourist and its

nearness to the important trade regions of the state, the town is gaining much

scope in terms of trade. In the recent times, it has positioned itself as a strong

market provider for silk products and market consumers for such goods as well.

Thus the silken products have gain profound influence upon the dressing habit of

the natives.

The town had various government, semi-government and private

establishments as well as retail outlets for silk products that paved a steady

progress in the market for silk in this region. The present demand for silk in this

area depicts a prospective and promising market in very near future of course

demanding a lot of progress which has to be acquired in the sector in due course.

Considering the influences of various elusive and non-elusive factors upon the

shift in demand for Silk textiles and the immediate need for identifying the

problems and its effective solutions has lead to the preparation of this project

report.

Collected from GIs for Market Differentiation, Reputation & Quality. (2008)

2.2 Market Significance of Silk in National

and International markets.

While discussing on marketing of silk, an epigrammatic analysis on

the History of silk and its trading activities in the ancient times, provides a better

grip in the study. The Silk fabric was first developed in the ancient China, as early

as 6000 BC and definitely by 3000 B.C. Credit for developing this fabric was

vested to a Chinese empress, Lei Tzu (Hsi-Ling-Shih), the 14-year-old wife of the

China’s third emperor, Huangdi (Huang-Ti).

This was a secret process and was closely guarded for more than

3,000 years, but the texture and luster of silk was so splendid that it acquired a

great demand and became a staple material of Pre-industrial International trade.

However in those days exporting of silkworm eggs from China was strictly

prohibited, committing to which calls for nothing but Death Penalty. But in about

550 A.D. Emperor Justinian provoked two former missionaries to China and

succeeded in smuggling to Constantinople, in a hollow staff, both eggs of the

silkworm and the seeds of mulberry tree. Byzantium became famous for splendid

silken textiles and embroideries, used throughout medieval Europe for royal and

ecclesiastical costumes and furnishings.

After this the Muslim Moors began to carry the tradition of silk

culture, which includes rearing and weaving across the northern coast of Africa

and Spain and Sicily. The first evidence of the silk trade is the finding of silk in

the hair of an Egyptian mummy of the 21st dynasty, 1070 BC. Ultimately the silk

trade reached as far as the Indian subcontinent, the Middle East, Europe, and

North Africa. This trade was so extensive that the major set of trade routes

between Europe and Asia has become known as the Silk Road.

Thus the history of Silk clearly defines how the magical thread

establishes its demand in the international market creating a perfect impression

owing to its grand design and lasting quality. In Bokakhat sub-division, three

different types of silk are produced, collectively called Assam silk: Muga, Eri and

Pat silk. Muga, the golden silk, and Eri are produced by silkworms that are native

only to Assam. The heritage of silk rearing and weaving is very old and continues

today especially with the production of Muga and Pat Riha and Mekhela Chador,

the three-piece silk saris woven with traditional motifs. At earliest the export of

the Silk product form the area was rare, but now the gradual and growing

interest among the locals has recovered the sector and prepares it for exports.

2.3 Purpose of the field study and its Scope.

On having International Business as specialization, it has been

jointly decided along with the guide, to select such a topic that represents the

area of specialization. Meanwhile, it has been found that the trend of silken

textiles in the local markets shows a downward slope for the last few years even

there has been increase in the demand in international markets. So, the topic is

worthy to be taken into consideration and with the purpose of identifying the

root causes for their occurrence the given project report has been prepared.

During the investigation process a transparency is maintained

regarding the main purpose of the field study and efforts are deliberated to draw

the effective conclusions that may help in restructuring the strategy aiming at

retaining the demand for the authentic silk textiles in the local market. For the

same purpose also, the suggestions put forwarded by the respondents are noted

and analyzed and thereby various recommendations are also proposed.

The scope of the Project report is ample. And it has been planned

keeping in view the need of a micro-level study of the concerned field. The study

was undertaken within the limited area of Bokakhat sub-division, from which

certain numbers of respondents are randomly selected for investigation and

acquiring the related information. The findings also reflect the insights of

successful NGOS, cooperatives, individual entrepreneurs in handloom sectors in

the sub-division.

Display showcasing Silk products at SANKARDEV SILK HOUSE, Bokakhat.

2.4 Definition of the important terms.

Some of the important terms were defined here, used in the report.

Denier: A unit of measure by which silk yarn is weighed and its fineness calculated.

Eri: The common name of the Samia ricini caterpillar which eats the leaves of the

castor plant (ricinus communis) or kesseru (heteropanax fragrans). This is a semi-

domestic silk producing caterpillar reared in Assam, India. The silk is white in colour,

with a semi-matt finish.

Muga: The common name of the Antherea assamensis caterpillar which eats the

leaves of the Som tree (machilus bombycine) or Soalu (litsaea polyantha). This is a

wild caterpillar reared in Assam, India. The silk produced is golden in colour.

Tussah: Also known as Tossar is a wild silk of the Antherea mylitta caterpillar which

eats the leaves of the Arjun tree (terminalia arjun), Asan (terminalia tomentosa) or

Oak (querus). This caterpillar is raised in the forested regions of China, Korea and

India. The silk is honey beige colour.

2.5 Review of related literature analysis of

previous research study.

Being the product having international recognition, the varieties of

Silk namely, Golden Muga, White Pat and Warm Eri is common to the areas

under Bokakhat sub-division along with the traces of Tasar Silkworm rearing in

certain parts. Those silks are collectively known as Vanya Silk or Wild silk.

Of course certain literatures in the form of Articles in regional

magazines and paragraphs in Newspapers have been acquired to support the

Field Study, but no previous Research study was recorded that has been

prepared on the same topic. Thus, the spectrum of this Project study can be

classified as empirical in nature. While in the state level various projects have

been introduced and initiated in lines with the assistance of both state and

national government.

The project report had been assisted by the Research Study

entitled, “Feasibility study of a handloom cluster in Barpeta district of Assam” by

Bibhudutta Patra (2005) and A process study in Assam and Mizoram entitled,

“Muga/Eri Silk Production Process and Constraints” by D. Bidari. The former one

is conducted with the objective of determining the viability of setting up

handloom clusters in Barpeta district, after having an intensive field visit on the

four districts of Assam, namely Bongaigaon, Kokrajhar, Barpeta and Kamrup

districts. Findings include overall understanding of the existing value chain in the

Handloom sector in Assam starting from raw materials (cocoons, yarns, dyes,

sizing materials, design cards and loom accessories) in terms of availability and

price to the finished products.

While the later research by D. Bidari was undertaken in two North

Eastern states, Assam and Mizoram. Two districts from each state have been

selected which are concentrated, Muga in Assam and Eri in Mizoram. It revealed

the process of technology transfer among tribal farmers in respect of Muga/Eri

Silk production. It analyses the constraints in Muga/Eri silk production process

and suitable strategies and also clarified the role of women in Muga/Eri silk

production and efforts made by the department towards their capability

building.

Both the above mentioned Research study also covered operating

cycle, market and demand for the products with reference to geographic regions

and seasons, margin in each product and supporting agencies role.

3.1 Design of the study.

The project was designed keeping in view the main purpose of

conducting the field study. I have designed the study in such a way, so as to

include detailed information on the commercialized Sericulture, the

manufacturing process and the market and demand for raw materials as well as

the finished products.

Special emphasis was given to the prevailing market system. And

the functions stated in the following units were carried out by the various groups

of people and there exists a well-established system of markets where the

products at each stage are sold and brought. Being dominated by rich traders, it

was here that most profits were siphoned off. Hence, it was derived from the

design of the study that, there had been an immense need for an alternative

system of cooperative or collective kind where functions were decentralized

under the larger umbrella of a people’s organization for the silk marketing in the

Bokakhat sub-division.

On having a chary study on the prevailing design of the market for

the silk products in the locally, it had been observed that the finished products

were centrally marketed. The industries of this area lack expert inputs and

guidance for both technical and managerial aspects including marketing. Since

majority of the producers and end-users conceived that high prices available

from the export of silk garments in the international markets would mean higher

returns to the primary producers at various stages, but also it was among the

major causes of failing demand of the silk textiles in local markets.

Considering the existing value-chain of silk textile sector of

Bokakhat starting from raw materials (cocoons, yarns, dyes, sizing materials,

design cards and loom accessories) in terms of availability and price to the

finished products. My study also designed so as to encompass the operating

cycle, market and demand for the products in geographic expanse and term,

margin in each product and supporting agencies role, both in the local and

foreign market environments.

3.2 Procedures used.

A well comprehensive procedure was followed for conducting the field

study. At the first instance, a discussion was held with the guide, exemplifying

the viability of the topic and its suitability for the preparation as a Project. After a

proper analysis on the topic, a planning schedule was prepared emphasizing on

the field activities which had to be carried out. At next, elaborate study was made

on the design of the study and the methodology to be used. The sources of data

as mentioned in the subsequent part were determined and also decisions were

made regarding the data gathering instruments used. A constant market

structure was analyzed relating to the demand of silk textiles in the local area, i.e.

within the mentioned scope of the field study. A throughout survey was

conducted in the sub-division as the field work. Questionnaire was primarily

used for this procedure. The various ideas, suggestions, views and comments are

noted and grouped to form the research. And certain measure of cooperation

was accepted from various published sources also.

After that, all necessary information was grouped and the concerned

Contents of the Research Project were decided. Various implications were

discussed and suggestions were followed for the effective accomplishment of the

research.

3.3 Sources of Data

As it had been already stated, that the following research was empirical in

nature, therefore the majority of the data were gathered first-handedly. The data

obtained from the survey is the primary data, as those were collected for the first

time in the concerned field. While in the form of secondary data, information was

collected from various published and unpublished sources as well as over the

internet. All the sources of acquiring data were also listed in the provided

bibliography at the end of this research report. Random selection of silk retailers

was been made for investigation and acquiring the related information. The

findings so derive reflect the insights of successful NGOS, cooperatives,

individual entrepreneurs in the silk textile manufacturing as well as retailing

sector within the Bokakhat sub-division.

Perspective of BODO HANDLOOM SHOWROOM at Behora Tea Estate.

3.4 Methods of Gathering data

As per the planning schedule and to fulfill the purpose, the

information was collected through direct discussion and semi structured

interviews with the entrepreneurs at the individual level and with cooperative,

trust and NGOs at the group level. It also included the discussion with the locals

of the sub-division. Apart from that, there were data collections from the

government affiliates and also discussions with the different government

employee. Regarding the demand for silk textiles at the international stage,

websites of various trading institutions of India participating in export were

exclusively studied and the desired data were collected.

The information relating to the production process of silk threads

from their respective cocoons were recorded from the locally established NGO

based unit, by coordinating regular field visits over a period of more than one

month. However there was various other processes also, which were noted by

direct interview with the persons involved in the field of manufacture of silk

textiles. The manufactured items specially include Muga, Eri and Paat fiber.

Among which the cultivation of Muga is especially endemic to and confined

within Assam.

3.5 Description of Data Gathering instruments used

Since this research project followed a comparative analytical

perception, therefore I was in requirement of those data, which would provide

me sufficient knowledge on the field and also capable of being compared. As

known to us that study of market was a very complex process, so also the market

analysis of falling demand of the silk textiles at local level as compared to the

outer market was a multifaceted task. Some respondents considered the falling

demand of silk in local market with serious concern, while a few were not

accepting the fact and considered it as allegory. In the course of the field study it

was observed that the growth sales in handloom textiles were increasing quite at

a faster rate at local market. But the apprehension was that the share of products,

especially clothing made up of either Muga or Eri or even Paat Silk constitutes

only a negligible fraction of the total output of handloom textiles in the entire

area covered under the scope of the study.

So in order to sketch out the actual scene of the market, a list of

persons and establishments were prepared to whom I approached for collecting

data. Since, the topic involves much wider term in sense of the product; therefore

there had been the need of proper understanding of the basic facts relating to the

manufacture of silk textiles. Further there must be proper knowledge of the silk-

worm rearing, processing of cocoons, obtaining fibers and spinning into usable

thread and various other aspects comes to the fore. This is further assisted by

market distribution channels and the intricate marketing aspects such as brand

consciousness, design and preference among the customers at both the ends, i.e.

the local versus the foreign customers.

Considering, the above aspect citation, I prepared a comprehensive

questionnaire that includes the queries on various matters, which would in turn

provide me up with the desired information. During the field study, I handed

over the questionnaire to the respondent. Some of them filled it themselves,

while others preferred me to fill those up on their behalf. The specimen format of

the used Questionnaire was provided overleaf.

THE QUESTIONNAIRE:

This questionnaire is a part of the field survey conducted with the purpose of a

Market Research on Silk Products. The Research is conducted in order to sketch the

market scenario of Silk products in local markets as compared to the demand it

comprises in foreign market. So, the help and co-operation of the concerned person

is courteously sought for the proper outlining of the same. Date:

General Information

Name:

Sex: Male � Female � Age:

Address:

Analytical Information

Experience in the Field (in YY/MM):

No. of employees working under you:

Do you consider the present demand for Silk products in local market is satisfactory?

Yes � No �. How?

_____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________.

From where do you acquire raw materials? Self � Inter-state � other state �

Please specify the area (if either than Self) __________________________________.

Initial costing involved in acquiring Raw materials for Cost Price 1000 is ��� (approx)

(Suppose, in purchasing of Raw Materials of Rs 1000 the acquiring cost involved is Rs

15 including carriage inwards, direct expenses, etc) *

You process the raw materials. By self � by others �

If by self, whether Industry� Home-based �

How much time the processing takes (in days.)

Will you please narrate the Processing Methodology, followed by you, in brief?

_____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________.

Cost involved in Processing of Raw Materials of Rs.1000 ��� (approx)*

Market Segmentation Strategy

Do you consider it better to have market segmented rather than having a

homogenous market? Yes � No �

So what’s your target market? Local � State � National � International �

Preferred Distribution channels for your Finished Goods?

_____________________________________________________________________

Do you prefer the Intermediaries? Yes � No �

Market research strategy

Does your customer aware of Brand Preference? Yes � No �

If yes, then to what extent? High � Medium � Low �

Do you agree with the fact that at present, the Demand of Silk products in Local

markets is losing ground? Yes � No �

To what extent, will you held responsible the influence of foreign culture in affecting

the demand of Silk products. High � Medium � Low �

Is it justified to blame the growing demand of silk in foreign trade as the sole cause

for declining its demand in Local market? Yes � No �

Which will you prefer the most?(Please tick, ‘√’.)

a. Distributing your product locally with adequate margin

b. Distributing your product nationally with standard margin

c. Exporting your product at foreign markets with high profits

The golden magical thread owing to its distinct look and smooth feel gradually

becomes an instant inspiration for Fashion Designers from all over the world. Why

isn’t it inspires the indigenous Designers to the desired extent?

_____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

Do you view the Silk Industry as a sector facilitating Sustainable Development?

Yes � No �

If so, How/ (why) _______________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

How do you like to rate the Support and Cooperation of the State Government

towards this particular sector? Very Good � Good � Poor � Very Poor �

Are you benefitted from such support? Yes � No �

If Yes, How? ___________________________________________________________

What are the sources of Finance available and are they adequate?

_____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

Since, Infrastructure is called “the Backbone of an Economy”, how the facility

available here helps you to sustain? Rank it. Very Good� Good� Poor� Very Poor�

How the barriers to effective Promotion of Silk in Local markets can be eliminated?

_____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

Most importantly, is it true, that the increase in the price tags of Silk Products

comparatively reduces its demand? Yes � No �

“The golden thread has the diamond-like future.”- What’s your comment?

_____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

Your suggestions to retain the demand of the precious fabric “Silk”.

_____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________

Your kind assistance will definitely lead to a successful research. Prior to the conclusion will

you kindly rate the survey? Very Good� Good� Poor� Very Poor � Comments (if any)

Thank You.

Signature of the respondent Signature and seal of the issuing authority.

(For JDSG COLLEGE, Bokakhat)

4.1 Discussion regarding the on-field Research

As mentioned earlier, the field research was undertaken for a period of 6 (six)

months. The field research included continuous analysis of the market behavior

of silk products, especially Muga, Eri, Paat and Tussah silk textiles. Micro level

analysis had been carried out regarding the consumer behavior, and market

segmentation strategy developed for the local market.

In the course of field study, I approached two government sector undertakings,

namely JAGARAN, ARTFED Bokakhat and Kohora branch. Continuingly study had

been carried out over 4 (four) private silk retailing stores at Bokakhat Town

Area and a continued observation was also followed so as to understand the

market trend. Concluding, accompanied by my guide, Sri Ranjeet Saikia, I visited

the District Rural Development Authority (DRDA), Golaghat affiliated TRIBENI

DECORATIVE TEXTILE CENTER under TRIBENI GRAMIN BIKASH COMMITTEE, a

Bokakhat based NGO. They demonstrated with adequate measures about the silk

rearing, reeling and spinning of threads from silkworms.

The sericulture had been very difficult cultivation and there involves a lot of

hardships as well as complexities. For this reason the silk textiles of Muga, Eri

and Paat fetched very high price. It had been observed that the prices of a Muga

silk sari was too higher, ranging from 5,000 to 15,000 INR (Indian Rupees),

which was a discouraging fact for the local customers to afford. Even at times the

price seems to be rationale considering the hardships and risk involved in its

production, however at the international markets this Price tag was of moderate

range. But at the same time it acts as negative brunt to the prospective demand

of Muga sari among the local consumers.

However, the field research encompasses the views and opinions collected from

the local customers and general public. Their ideas were shared regarding the

actual condition of Silk textiles in the market. Some opined that, the demand is

actually increasing but the price was the factor along with dearth in supply of

raw materials for production, was what holding the market back. While majority

of them blamed the increasing demand of Muga at the international scenario and

the intervention of market by the artificial or synthetic fibers as the key to

diminishing the demand of silk textiles. Again, it was to be noted , the economic

development of the Bokakhat sub-division was in its initial phase, for which it

suffers from non-availability of skilled and semi-skilled labour both in the

farming and non-farming sector. Thus the research evaluates various drawbacks

in behavioral aspects of the economy of Bokakhat sub-division, which required

insistent and effectual attention of both society and the government as well.

VARIETIES OF SILK OBSERVED IN BOKAKHAT SUB-DIVISION.

MUGA SILK

Muga silk had been derived from the silkworm Antherea assamensis endemic to

Assam. The pupa of the silkworm feed on the Som (Machilus bombycina) and

Sualu (Litsaea polyantha) leaves. Muga was known for its golden texture, glossy

finish and durability. Owing to its low porosity, the Muga yarn cannot be

bleached nor dyed and its natural golden color is retained. Another fascinating

fact was that the luster of Muga increases after every wash and very often the

Muga silk outlast its owner.

In terms of essentiality, no other silk can permeate both the weaver and wearer

with such a glossy halo of exclusivity, so it becomes essential for the stylistic

dress code. Perhaps it was been a boon or no less than wonder that it had not

been adopted by the west as an alternative to gold plated thread as it shines just

as bright and never tarnishes the glow which was entirely natural. Muga is the

main silk used to weave the distinct Assamese traditional attire, i.e. the distinct

three-piece dress of Assamese women, called Mekhela-Riha-Chador, in which the

golden tinge were highlighted by red and black threadwork designs. (Refer to

Frame 1, 2 & 4.)

PAAT SILK

Pat silk was produced by silkworm, which feed on mulberry leaves. The color of

the fiber obtained from the Pat cocoons is generally of brilliant white or a bit off-

white. The apparels made of Pat silk can generally be dried in shade. (Refer to

Frame 9, 10, 11 & 12.)

ERI SILK

Eri silk was made from cocoons of Eri or Endi caterpillar Philosamia cynthia

ricini. This feed on leaves of Castor oil plant. It is also known as Endi or Errandi

silk. Due to the fact that manufacturing process of Eri allows the pupae to

develop into adults and only the open ended cocoons are used for turning into

silk, it is also popularly known as non-violent silk. This silk is soft and warm and

is popular as shawls and quilts as the capacity of heat absorbency was extremely

high of this textile. (Refer to Frame 5 & 7.)

TUSSAH SILK

Among non-mulberry silk Tussah or Tossar, was mostly cultivated by the tribal

inhabiting on the northern and southern region of the Bokakhat Sub-division, by

rearing silkworms on the forest plants. The fiber obtained from the Tussah

Cocoons resembled the splendid Muga in terms of look and sense. The customers

were often found duped by few misguided retailers by selling the Tussah silk sari

instead of Muga silk sari. The luster of Tussah was generally a bit off-golden in

color. (Refer to Frame 13.)

Silk Product Price* Ranges:

Muga Mekhela (Single) : 3,000 INR.

Muga Chador : 3,600 INR.

Muga Sari : 5,500 - 1500 INR.

Muga Riha : 560 – 890 and above in INR.

Muga Pair (Mekhela + Chador) : 6,000 - 7,800-15,000 INR.

Paat Mekhela (Single) Plain : 1,000 and above in INR.

Paat Mekhela (Single) Design : 1,500 and above in INR.

Paat Pair (Mekhela + Chador) : 3,800 - 6500 INR.

Paat Sari : 4,500 INR.

Eri Chador : 760 - 1500 INR.

Eri Muga Chador : 1200 - 1780 INR.

Tussah Mekhela (Design) : 1,100 INR.

Tussah Pair (Mekhela + Chador) : 3,000 – 4,500 INR.

Kesha Paat Pair : 1,600 – 2,500 INR.

INR represents INDIAN RUPEE, the National Currency of India. Symbol: Rs.

*All the prices indicated above were only estimation. Actual prices may vary according to Range,

Product quality, Weight, Colour and such other various attributes.

The Life cycle of Muga Silkworm

Collected from GIs for Market Differentiation, Reputation & Quality. (2008)

MAJOR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

Shape: Silk has a triangular shaped cross section whose corners are rounded.

Luster: Due to the triangular shape (allowing light to hit it at many different

angles), silk is a bright fiber meaning it has a natural shine to it.

Covering power: Silk fibers have poor covering power. This is caused by their

thin filament form.

Hand: When held, silk has a smooth, soft texture that, unlike many synthetic

fibers, is not slippery.

Denier: 4.5 g/d (dry); 2.8-4.0 g/d (wet)

MECHANICAL PROPERTIES

Strength: Silk is the strongest of all the natural fibers; however it does lose up to

20% of its strength when wet.

Elongation/elasticity: Silk has moderate to poor elasticity. If elongated even a

small amount the fibers will remain stretched.

Resiliency: Silk has moderate wrinkle resistance.

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES

Protein Composition: Silk is made up of GLY-SER-GLY-ALA-GLY and forms Beta

pleated sheets. Inter chained H-bonds are formed while side chains are above

and below the plane of the H-bond network. Small residue (GLY) allows tight

packing and the fibers are strong and resistant to stretching. The tension is due

to covalent peptide bonds. Since the protein forms a Beta sheet, when stretched

the force is applied to these strong bonds and they do not break. The 50% GLY

composition means that GLY exists regularly at every other position.

Absorbency: Silk has a good moisture regain of 11%.

Electrical Conductivity: Silk is a poor conductor of electricity making it

comfortable to wear in cool weather. This also means however, that silk is

susceptible to static cling.

Resistance to Ultraviolet Light/Biological Organisms: Silk can become

weakened if exposed to too much sunlight. Silk may also be attacked by insects,

especially if left dirty.

Chemical Reactivity/ Resistance: Silk is resistant to mineral acids. It is

yellowed by perspiration and will dissolve in Sulphuric acid.

OTHER PROPERTIES

Dimensional Stability: Unwashed silk chiffon may shrink up to 8% due to

a relaxation of the fiber macrostructure. So silk should either be prewashed

prior to garment construction, or dry cleaned. However, dry cleaning may

still shrink the chiffon up to 4%. Occasionally, this shrinkage can be reversed by

a gentle steaming with a press cloth. Gradual shrinkage is virtually nonexistent,

as is shrinkage due to molecular-level deformation.

USES OF SILK

Apparel: Silk is excellent for use in warm weather and active clothing. The silk's

good absorbency makes it comfortable to wear in such conditions. Silk is also

excellent in the cold because its low conductivity keeps the wearer warm.

Examples of Silk Clothing

Saris

Blouses

Formal Dresses

High Fashion

Negligees

Pajamas

Robes

Skirt-suits

Sundresses

Underwear

Furnishings

Silk's elegant, soft luster and beautiful drape makes it perfect for many

furnishing applications.

Examples of Silk Furnishings

Upholstery

Wall Coverings

Window Treatments (if blended with another fiber)

Rugs

Bedding

Wall Hangings.

4.2 Interpretation of the Tribulations

MAJOR PREDICAMENT PREVAILING IN THE SILK INDUSTRY AND MARKET:

Talking about the dumping of cheaper silk from China after the coming of WTO

regime and the acute scarcity of agricultural labour had been too ambiguous to

deal with, which demands macro and comprehensive analysis of the entire

economy. So I decided to stress on the internal factors influencing the entire

market structure of Silk products in the town. Silk industry was such a sector in

which the number of women workers was relatively higher as compared to their

male counterparts. However, a few specific problems were prominent

particularly in this area leading to a lower production and declining demand.

The poor education system as well as uncompetitive literacy rate aggravates the

innovativeness required in this sector. The workers engaged in Sericulture at

Bokakhat were mostly self-trained and majority of them were semi-skilled or

unskilled, that poses even a serious threats to the industry to survive up to its

business potential. Moreover, the derisory training facilities for the workers

deprived them from economic uplift and thus limiting employment opportunities

in this sector by blocking the entrance for other new unskilled labour.

Restricted access to the indigenous silk yarns from the local producers and

scarce resources was another factor limiting the industry of sericulture in this

region. Further various natural sway had been also adversely affecting the

sericulture process, which includes floods, irregular rainfall and dense fog.

Relating to the health grievances, the problem of eyesight is quite common

among the weavers in this region. The workers of the industry suffered from

various eye disorders due to the prolonged exposure to hectic working

schedules. It had been observed that even during the festive season i.e. from

October to April the workers perform their tasks for four to five hours daily. This

not only affects their health but also reduces their efficiency along with the poor

and unhygienic production sites. Another notable fact was the poor

infrastructural facilities available to the interior part of the sub-division stands

as an obstacle to the effective marketing of silk raw materials as well as finished

products to and from the remote areas. This problem has been also aided by the

non-availability of loom and its equipments in time as well as meager mobility of

workers were making the production scenario the worst.

However, under The Multi Sectoral Development Plan (2007-08 to 2010-12)

initiated by the state government expert guidance and opinion were made

available by some of the notable institutions such as the National Institute of

Rural Development (NIRD), State Institute of Rural Development (SIRD), Indian

Institute of Entrepreneurship (IIE) and National Institute of Fashion Technology

(NIFT), Guwahati. The assistance of those institutions was not so remarkable for

the Sub-division. Relentless efforts made by the North-East Institute of Science

and Technology (NEIST), Jorhat, along with the Research and Development

initiatives made by the Assam Silk Board and Directorate of Sericulture and

Weaving of Assam needs special mention. But the most active role of all was

been played by District Rural Development Agency (DRDA), Golaghat, by

implementing certain Projects in Bokakhat to encourage the Sericulture.

Sericulture was a predominantly agricultural activity but was under the Textile

Ministry instead of Agriculture Ministry. As a result, the silk farmers were

deprived of various subsidy components given to the agricultural farmers like,

power, seed, fertilizer and soft loans etc. Even having a heritage of silk weaving

and favorable conditions for silk worm rearing there had been constant shortage

of handloom clusters, which permits the available industry to take up only small

orders.

The scarce of textiles available locally, induced the retailers to purchase their

supplies from outer areas, such as Muga from Sualkuchi. The transportation of

those materials from the distant parts ultimately increases the prices of silk

products. However, in the recent times demand of silk products especially Muga

and Eri had gone up fabulously. The main reason for such increase in demand

was owed to their unique characteristics, utilization and as well as the higher

access of quality textiles was made available to the international markets.

Depending upon the status of the local public and their preference, retailers

strategized market segmentation. The presence of homogenous rate structure

would not be profitable. The retailers acknowledges that the sale of silk textiles

in the local market had come over to much lower fraction, as compared to the

sale accrued five to eight years back. The situation was aggravated further rises

in price tags of silk textiles.

As mentioned earlier, another important drawback of this sector was the lack of

innovativeness. It was seen that the majority of the silk apparels, especially Muga

Mekhela Chador, Pat Riha Chador and Eri Chador flaunted the same age old

threadwork designs. Even some of those designs are still calibrated art

masterpieces but most of them were outdated. The indigenous fashion designers

are busy in designing the western textiles, in due course they forgot to reveal the

inherent significance of these endemic fibers. Just now only very few textile

designers had percept the need to retain the standard of those matchless and

unrivalled textiles.

4.3 Principal findings and result

The conducted field study had revealed the following specifics:

The cultivation of host plant which leads to the production of cocoon from

the silk producing caterpillars had been adversely affected by the follow up of

traditional practices.

Even the sericulture department of Assam had gone drastic developments,

yet their credibility in Bokakhat sub division as more preferred source for

procurement of information support and other sericulture process updates

were cannot be well established.

At the recent times few persons grouped themselves as a society and have

started sericulture as a profession as well as the means of livelihood.

But, various physical, infrastructural, technological and socio-personal

factors had reduced the Muga and Eri cocoon production to a negligible

stratum.

The practice of sericulture had been pegged down at the subsistence level,

within a very smaller segment of cultivators. Even though it exhibits well

aged tradition and exemplify vast potentiality as industry, the sector doesn’t

show traces of re-commercialization.

The use of developed methods such as use of scientific cultivation process,

training, manures, technical know-how, disinfectants etc were avoided to a

large extent.

The sericulture especially involving production of Muga and Eri in Bokakhat

region was beneficial owing to the favorable climatic conditions for the

growth of host plants sustaining the silk cocoons.

Even though, there had been an acute shortage of trained work force, for the

extraction of fibers from cocoon.

Rapid urbanization of the rural areas and extensive trend of getting

employed resulted in gradual fade out of work force for this sector.

The advertisement strategy for the silk product is lacked seriously, neither

had it had any promotional initiative launched by the producers, nor any such

planning in this regard had been determined.

A certain proportion of the finished products of Muga and Eri were marketed

by the state government and channelize them for the purpose of export.

No such encouraging initiative of state government had been recorded,

except the venturing the Jagaran, ARTFED branch in the region. But the

notable fact was that those ventures were at deplorable state, without having

any development and proper marketing strategy or effective supervision of

the government.

Moreover, the market for authentic silk had been adversely affected by the

synthetic silk from other states, which can be well afforded at a lower price.

Another variety of cheap silk fiber namely, Tussah had been used to dupe the

customers, as both of these silk looked alike the, but the superiority of Tussah

was lower than Muga.

The gradual developments of the locals in one way leads to the economic

development, which on the other hand reduces the local’s interests on

sericulture.

It had been observed that sericulture was a potential industrial sector. And a

promising career prospect for the reducing the unemployment problems.

There had been considerable increase in the demand of silk textiles,

especially the Muga and Eri fabric is much sought for by the foreign

customers.

The process of sericulture had been a very complex process and requires

undaunted care, hardships and lots of time of course, which was also a major

cause for the decline of new generation’s interests in the sector.

Being a high yielding sector the extent of sericulture could be increased in the

Bokakhat sub-division to cater the increasing demand of those textiles,

through proper planning and government co-operation as well as support

and interests of the local people.

One of the most notable observances was that the participation of the

unemployed youths in that particular sector is discouragingly lower than

expected; even the field of silk textiles had immense market scope and better

potential of income generation.

Among, the most notable finding was the non-availability of advertisement

strategy for the local made products. The Assam Silk Board along with the

Central Silk Board had initiated several campaigns targeting the International

market. Most of the ads were launched over the internet deliberated to seek

international customers, on the other hand neglected a major part of the state

market. No such specific and breakthrough ads were created targeting the

local consumers encouraging to purchase local products, except one could

find few occasional banners instituted by the government and semi

government agency. The remarkable, fact was that no such remarkable ads or

banner was found in the entire surveyed area of this research area, nor even

any encouraging advertisement were noticed that could leads the local to

purchase the silk products from the local retailers or from any other

showrooms.

Being the growing demand of silk products in international markets had

considerably reduced the demand for silk in local markets by channelizing

the quality products towards the international markets.

There had been a pervasive technological variation in silk production of the

Bokakhat sub-division with the handspun and hand woven sector at one

hand of the continuum and the sophisticated, capital intensive industrialized

sector of other parts of Assam.

There had been an adverse situation of the vital norms of the area related to

working conditions, child labour, gender equality in wage structure and

training facilities. And ultimately women were the main sufferer and usually

had a lower social status.

Thus, from the above stated findings we are able to know that the acute shortage

of skilled labour, proper production methods and scarce resources are limiting

the production in a generic way in the surveyed area. While, inadequate

advertisement measures, soaring price tags, inefficient marketing behavior and

negligence of the local market by bestowing more preference to the international

market, were the credible factors diminishing the demand for the silk textiles in

the local market.

4.4 Recommendations for further research.

On observing the prevailing situation the major recommendations from my part

were as follows:

The new concepts of marketing such as Generic Promotion and

motivational matrix system must be adopted instantaneously.

Government co-operation and workers training facilities should be

instituted.

New technology must be put to use in line with the traditional methods

regarding Sericulture practices.

Further analysis for the proper marketing of silk textiles for retaining the

demand should be made.

Considering the market conditions as well as the demand and supply factor for

the silk products in local markets and the conducted research had a view in

common that the sector requires further research and attention for the proper

appraisal and retention of demand in the local market.

Generic promotions at the regional level have to be used successfully in the

marketing of Silk products, such as the strategy adopted by the Tea Board of

India in regaining the field in local market and in the international sphere. Such

types of promotions can be introduced by the following ways:

By the retailers at the initial level, through widespread advertisements of

the products.

By the intermediaries, providing easier access to the Silk products

through effective channelization of Silk textiles output from their

producers to the retailers.

By the producers, yet they doesn’t have much role in this sector, they

could take necessary steps in providing constant supply of the products.

By the national government through Uninational Promotion such as the

appeal “Use Indian Spices” by The Spices Board of India.

Most importantly, the Silk production has been a very unique and

magnificent process, by showcasing which to the local, the demand of Silk

products can be up shoved. The same process can also be integrated with

the Tourism Development of Bokakhat Sub Division and it’s nearness to

Kaziranga National Park, The World Heritage Site would be an added

bonus. As Kaziranga attracts lakhs of national and foreign tourists every

year. The same factor also enabled the market of Silk products to

integrate itself with the national and the foreign marketable agenda.

Opening up retail outlets of Silk products in the remote areas of the

region, facilitating both moderate costing products, so as to be affordable

for the local customers. Moreover, such initiative must be well backed up

by adequate product inputs as well as adequate advertisement facilities.

View of ARTFED Jagaran, Kohora Branch. Kaziranga. Assam. Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

4.5 Conclusion.

A noteworthy realm was that sericulture occupied a safe and stable

position among the Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME) Sector, which

lent a major hand in catapulting the Economy of Assam to the position of one of

the fastest growing economies of the country. The self nurtured Sericulture of

Bokakhat sub-division also contributed to the share. The overall strength of the

Sericulture process depends on the extensive network of facilities, especially

infrastructural. However, resources from Assam Silk Board in terms of

expertise, qualified scientific and marketing expert, facilities for Research and

Development (R&D) and training facilities would be an added asset.

It had been observed that the major constraints in the silk market sector

was facing in the recent times is non-availability of skilled labour force and

market connoisseur to strategy the local market in such a way so as to involve

the larger share of local customers. The market issues were serious in nature and

needed to be tackled immediately to safeguard the sericulture industry, thus

protecting the age old tradition on the one hand and the marvelous natural fiber

on the other hand. Most importantly, the innovativeness must be infused

regarding the designs and attention must be paid to the preference of the local

consumers. The market research shows up that there would have a huge

potentiality of silk textiles in the local market, of course they were provided as

per the new trend in fashion and strict consideration need to be paid that the

price tags of the expensive Muga, Paat and Eri silk could get an preferential place

in budget of apparels or clothing.

In conclusion once more, I want to thank wholeheartedly to all those

persons, who encouraged me during the survey. Heartiest thanks to those

professionals and retailers and who let me know about the internal

complications comprised in the sericulture industry and the market structure,

without the co-ordination of whom, the project would never be a success. I am

also grateful to the persons, publications, reports and all those resources

mentioned in the bibliography, from which I got unlimited support during the

preparation of this project. I am also thankful to the lecturers of the Commerce

department of the J.D.S.G. College, for providing me guidance in this respect. And

last but not the least, I offered my sincere and deepest gratitude to my respected

Guide, Sri Ranjeet Saikia for providing me with His eternal guidance, my parents

to encourage me at all the times and my dearest friend for her kind and generous

assistance.

With warm compliments for prosperous and a SILKY NEW YEAR 2010SILKY NEW YEAR 2010SILKY NEW YEAR 2010SILKY NEW YEAR 2010.

Thank You,

Prakash Deb Roy.

5.1 Tables

Table 1. Showing Sectoral statistics of Sericulture in Assam. Source: Assam at a Glance (Internet).

Table 2. Showing Assistance released under Handloom Export Scheme during Xth Plan

Source: Internet.

Table 3. Showing Sericulture Activities in Assam.

Source: Directorate of Sericulture and Weaving, Assam.

Table 4. Sericultural Farms and Grainages in Assam.

Source: Directorate of Sericulture and Weaving, Assam.

5.2 Figures

Figure 2 Export earnings through Silk Textiles which includes Silk carpets and Silk RMG.

Source: Central Silk Board, India.

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

3500

(Figure in Rs. Crore)*

Million in US $

Figure 1. Scaling the National Exports of Silk Goods for the last Ten years.

5.3 Snapshots

Frame 1. Image of a Muga Silkworm.

Photograph obtained from Internet.

*[INR represents the national currency INDIAN RUPEE, the symbol of which is Rs.]

Frame 2. Showing Muga Cocoon.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

Frame 3. Leaves of Som Tree on which the Muga silk

Caterpillars feed on.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

Frame 4. A Golden Muga Sari on Display at Jagaran

ARTFED, Bokakhat Branch. Its cost is round about 8,800

INR*.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

*[INR represents the national currency INDIAN RUPEE, the symbol of which is Rs.]

Frame 5. Eri Cocoon.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

Frame 6. Leaves of Era plant on which Eri

Silkworms feed on.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

Frame 7. Display of Eri Shawl, renowned for warmth

it provides, costing about 1400 INR*. Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

Frame 8. Handlooms at Tribeni Textiles.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

*[INR represents the national currency INDIAN RUPEE, the symbol of which is Rs.]

Frame 9. White Paat Silkworm Cocoon, also known

as the Ahimsa Silk.

Photograph collected from Internet.

Frame 10. Noni plant leaves on which Paat

Silkworm feed on.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

Frame 11. Reeling of Paat Silk form the Cocoons.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

Frame 12. An heavy budgeted Paat Sari, costing around

7,000 INR*.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

Frame 13. Tussah Silk Sari, costing around 1400 INR*

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

Figure 14. Kesha Paat Sari, that involves the cost from

1500 to 3500 INR*.

Photograph by Prakash Deb Roy.

6.1 Bibliography

Ali, Rehan, & Deb Roy, Proloy, Jupuri Ghar (Understanding the buying behavior of foreign and national tourists), Kaziranga, Assam.

Baruah, Sunil, Manager cum accountant, ARTFED Jagaran, Kohora Branch, Assam.

Bezboruah, Pranjal, & Rehman, ARM, (2009). A Handbook of Student Research Project. Department

of Commerce, Dibrugarh University, Dibrugarh, Assam.

Bidari, D, Muga/Eri Silk Production Process and Constraints, A process study in Assam and

Mizoram.

Das, Champa, Entrepreneur, Tribeni textiles under Tribeni Grameen Bikash Committee, Bokakhat

Deka, Jayaram, Manager cum accountant, ARTFED Jagaran, Bokakhat Branch, Assam.

DIRECTORATE OF SERICULTURE, Assam.

Goswami, K.C. Nath, C.K. & Saha, A, (2009). A Handbook of Student Research Project. Department of Commerce, Dibrugarh University, Dibrugarh, Assam.

Kalita, Harbilash, Manager, Sankardev Silk House, Bokakhat, Assam.

Kalita, S.N. Rajbongshi, Manoj Kumar & Sarkar, Sushil. Role of Sericulture for Regional Development, Bajali College, Pathsala, Assam.

MULTI SECTORAL DEVELOPMENT PLAN FOR MINORITY OF BONGAIGAON DIST5RICT, (SEPTEMBER, 2008), Deputy Commissioner, Bongaigaon, Assam.

Patra, Bibhudatta, (2005). Feasibility study of a handloom cluster in Barpeta district of Assam.

Saikia, Rashmirekha, Elaborations on the traditional clothing category & styles, Bokakhat.

Sarma, Krishna, (September, 2008). GIs for Market Differentiation, Reputation & Quality - An Insight, Corporate Law Group.

Sen, Sarma, N. & Das, N. N. Ionic Conductivities of Natural Silk, Cotton and its comparison with

Synthetic one. Assistant Professor, Material Sciences Division, Polymer Unit, Institute of Advanced Study in Science and Technology, Khanapara, Guwahati, Assam.

SERICULTURE AND SILK PRODUCTION, available at www.scienceandsociety.com, viewed on 22nd Dec, 2009. Ernakulam, Kerala.

Silk worm Farming available at www.vegansociety.com viewed on 12th October, 2009.

Sources available at www.wikipedia.org

THE ANT – THE ACTION NORTHEAST TRUST, (April, 2005), Bongaigaon, Assam.

The silk process available at www.silkbaron.com viewed on 22nd October, 2009.

Unni, B.G. (2008). Readers Contribution, Bugs to boost Assam’s Muga Silk Production/ Experiment in Assam helps Worms produce more of better Quality Silk. Courtesy: Business world/ The

Telegraph (6th April, 2008).

Unni, U.N. & Murthy, U.S.N. (July 10th 2008), Sericulture and viable technologies for better silk production. Current Science, VOL.95, NO.1.

6.2 Glossary of Terms

Ads: advertisement or such promotional steps

Aggravated: forced or irritated

Allegory: symbol or story

Apprehension: state of worry or hesitation

Attire: dressing and apparel styles

Authentic: genuine or dependable

Barricade: obstacle or blockade

Brunt: impact or burden

Calibrate: to standardize or adjust

Connoisseur: specialist

Constraints: limitation

Continuum: range, variety or scale

Conventional: conservative

Culmination: conclusion

Demeanor: conduct or behavior

Deplorable: awful or bad state

Ecclesiastical: religious

Effectual: capable and efficient

Empirical: pragmatic or sensible

Epigrammatic: short or to the point

Halt: stop as a temporary destination

Hectic: confused

Implication: suggestion

Indigenous: native and original, home- grown

Insistent: firm and preserving

Intricate: complicated or elaborated

Luster: shine

Multifaceted: complex or comprehensive

Pegged: shifted down to

Perceptive: observant

Permeate: to fill or infuse

Porosity: retaining capacity

Reeling: to spun out of

Resort: way out

Retention: to preserve or maintain

Riha: A scarf wears by females in Assamese tradition

Splendid: wonderful or fabulous

Stratum: layer or level

Tranquility: calmness

Unbiased: impartial

Unrivalled: unopposed

Vista: view of scenario

6.3 Index.

Abstract, V

Acknowledgement, IV

Allegory, 11

Apprehension, 11

Area, 4

Certificate, III

Commercialized Sericulture, 7

Data Sources, 9

Demography, 2

Denier, 5, 19

Development Plan, 21

DRDA, NIRD, SIRD, NIFT & IIE, 22

Endemic, 10

Findings, 23

Geographic location, 2

High yielding sector, 24

History of Silk, 3

Integrate, 27

Life cycle, 18

Literature analysis, 6

Market segmentation, 13

Price range of Silk products, 17

Problems of the Industry, 21

Properties of Silk, 19

Recommendations, 26

Released assistance, 29

Research & Development, 28

Results, 25

Scope of the Field Study, 4

Sectoral Statistics of Sericulture in Assam, 29

Silk clothing, 20

Silk Varieties, 16

Value-chain, 7

Working conditions, 25