portal tutorial es

7/25/2019 Portal Tutorial Es

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Tutorial

8 www.wamp-forum.com

This quick tutorial will show you howyou can use real plants in your

bases and dioramas and open up a realtreasure trove of unusual materials thatadd interest and are free to use.

Tools and Materials needed:

» Plants

» Glycerin

» Absorbent paper (i.e. kitchen roll)

» Water

» Small containerFirst a couple of little pointers. Thistechnique can be used on any type ofplant but results can vary. Generallythe more ‘woody’ the plant the better.Normally once you cut a plant the cuttingwill begin to dry out losing its water,this kills it and destroys the structure.This process solves that problem by

Basing Techniques

How to use Real Plants in

your Miniature Bases

by

Darklord

replacing the lost water with glywhich acts like an embalming fluiretains the plants structure.

Results can vary even with the type of plant so I recommend yothis in advance of when you neeplants. I do batches every nowagain and keep them in my bitno special requirements. Some been in there for well over a yeaare still as good as new. If you dadvance like this then any plantit hasn’t worked on can be remThis prevents the risk of using pthen later finding they wither awit’s going to fail it will happen whours generally so after this your

Difficulty: Ver


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STEP 1

Collect some plants! I like to use mosses as they scale well and you can justpull them from the rock but try anything, small herbs like thyme can be good.For this tutorial I just popped in the garden and grabbed some moss - took meabout 1 minute and found a good variety.

STEP 2

For this stage you needsome Glycerin. It is

available from chemistsover the counter(its often used as achildren’s medicine) Itisn’t harmful and youneed no bio-hazard suitfor it!! It’s pretty cheap,the bottle pictured wasabout £1.20 and lasts anage. You will also needa small container andsome water.

You need to mix roughly1 part Glycerin to 10parts water in thecontainer. Give it a goodstir so its properly mixed. Next take your plants and dip them in the mixture,make sure they are well covered then remove and place on some kitchen rollor newspaper. This willsoak up the excess.Some plants you maywant to turn over after anhour to soak both sides.Then simply leave to dry(overnight if possible)

After 24 - 48 hoursmost plants that didn’tsucceed the process willhave wilted by now so you can discard these. The rest you are free to use. Ifyou do a batch every now and again then you will always have a stockpile atthe ready and any that are good by then will remain good.

STEP 3

Now the fun bit!! Stickthem on your bases andgive them a real wow!

Image4

Any questions feel freeto ask

15 Comments

Ulfgrimr16-07-2010

Lovely stuff Brett, been wondering hdone and now I know - many thanks.foliage go woody over time or doesit’s spring? and how paintable is it glycerin treatment has been applied?

Darklord16-07-2010

As long as the Glycerin ‘takes’ it shoupretty much as is, it does vary fromplant so I would experiment. Not paintable though - never tried it

shanerozzell16-07-2010

Superb tutorial Brett. I’m gonna do sweekend

Boris16-07-2010

Great timing! I’m planning on colwhole load for an IMP workshop - didabout the glycerin though - I’ve just dout in the past. I will pick some up incouple of days to prep for the woThanks DL!

shanerozzell16-07-2010

Ok, update.... I was gonna harvelittle plants this weekend so I sho

thread to my better third and she if I go anywhere near our back garscissors......... Well, tail-less wonder cthe conversation. So I can either waitbits from either my mums or my sistergather some.... Ninja-Style

MaGie16-07-2010

Thanks so much for a great tutoriaamazing, very realistic! Think I’m crawl around my garden for somI do wonder though... doesn’t the make the plants sticky?

NeatPete16-07-2010

Great tutorial Brett thank. The last timthis they still wilted. I’ll hae to try it other types of plants this time.

SkelettetS16-07-2010

great article, have to pick up someasap! :) many thanks!

Coneman

17-07-2010

Nice article

Ironically, last week I was talking to brother about the plants on his ww2 and he produced some largecontainers from his cupboard full omosses that he had collected and this same way, last night my friend cand handed me 2 containers full of itme to take what I wanted.

Jabberwocky17-07-2010

Fantastic article! I’ve been waitinexplanation on how this was done. Hcan get some moss to try this out on

Boris17-07-2010

My local Boots only stockhoney flavoured glycerine ansuspicious of me wanting it plaseen Fight Club, I know what heI told him I wanted it for modelling tosome moss - I don’t recommend any

taking this approach unless you liklike a complete weirdo!

Darklord17-07-2010

Originally Posted by MaGieThanks so much for a great tutoriaamazing, very realistic! Think I’m crawl around my garden for somI do wonder though... doesn’t the make the plants sticky?nope dry normally

Vern17-07-2010

Cheers Brett, top tutorial - now to gglycerine

NeatPete17-07-2010

Yeah I remember when I asked at t hstore they all gave me wierd looks.

figure out why and I couldn’t find it.ask again for someone to show meperson was all wierd about it and to

the section where they keep all the walked off. Akward!

Simon.W18-07-2010

Excellent tutorial DL with some veinformation. I have always wonderewas some other process involved ajust getting the foliage moss etc aknow, next to get some glycerin ana try.



Review


The theme of the base selection Ireceived to review, shown in the picture

above, is that of a war torn urbansetting with plenty of rubble coveredby concrete slabs to provide tenuousfooting for your troops. The rubble ismade up of pieces of sand and rock ofvarying size and the concrete slabs aregouged and fractured.

I can tell that these bases were castfrom drop molds because of a raisededge that runs along the edge of thebottom. This edge just barely keepsthem from sitting flat, so you may needto take the time to scrape away thisexcess resin. I also noticed places ona few of the bases where there wasnothing but flat base showing through-no sand or rocks were covering thearea, so you’ll need to decide if you’reokay with that or if you need to addsome material of your own.

The casting quality is good- I could notfind any air voids on the main concrete

slabs, but the textured grit was astory. Voids are very common in t

sandy and rocky areas that the srest on, especially where the roccome to a point. Because of theiand placement it would be nearlyimpossible to fix them with putty, means you’d either need to scrapthem with the tip of a hobby knifeleave them alone and hope your job covers them.

One thing I don’t like about thesebases, and this is my personal ois that they feel too neat. The conslabs are too geometric. Even the

gouges and fractures are nice, evstraight lines. They sit very nicelytop of the rocks and grit, but thereno real interplay between the twodifferent elements. Having a slabconcrete partially covered by sanhaving the edges of a big chunk asphalt crumbling to mix with thewould give the elements a sense

connection and more visual inter

Bases by BNS Miniatures

Manufacturer

BNS Miniatures

Price

25mm - £3 for 10

40mm - £3.50 for 5

60mm - £4.00

Material

Resin

Contact

www.bnsminiatures.co.uk

Quality 7.5

Assembly 7

Value 8

Overall Score

7.5

REVIEWED BY CREGAN TUR

I first became aware of BNS Miniatures when they provided som

their bases as prizes for the recent, and very successful, Little An

competition from WAMP. BNS stands for BigNastyShark, the screen nam

the small company’s owner and founder. His goal is to bring a new selectaffordable and interesting bases to the market.

QUALITY

» Uniquely designed pieces that would work

well for an urban themed army

» Very durable resin that’s easy to work with

ASSEMBLY » A high number of small, but prevalent air

voids in the casting

» A little shaving may be required to havethem sit perfectly flat

» Small areas of some bases are untextured

VALUE » Very competitive price; good value f

money

OVERALL

As a first offering from a new companbases are a very promising show BNS Miniatures has to offer. The pr

very competitive and the products ar

considering if you’re looking for themed

http://www.bnsminiatures.co.uk/

http://www.bnsminiatures.co.uk/



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STEP 5 STEP 6 STEP 7

STEP 8 STEP 9 STEP 10

This is another subtle step thatwill tone down the sharp contrastof the pure white and help the

colours blend better. Coat theentire base with a wash of Devlan

Mud and let it dry completely.Next, do another wash of Devlan

Mud, but this time only wash inthe recesses and cracks. We don’twant to tone down the flat part

of the asphalt any more than wealready have. Let the base sit to

the side until it is completely dry.

To sell the idea that this is a pieceof broken asphalt I’m going toadd a yellow dividing line. Using

masking tape, I block out a 1/8”strip of base where I will paint

the line. Be sure that you covereverything that you’re not painting

with masking tape to protect therest of the base.

Salt Masking is a process where

you add texture to a surface bygetting salt to adhere to it, paint

over the area, and then gentlyremove the salt so that they

undercoat shows through.

The first step is to spray thearea with hairspray until it getsa light sheen. Next, you’re goingto quickly sprinkle a pinch of seasalt over the area. It will mix withthe hairspray, which will act as anadhesive to keep the salt in place.Be very sparing in the amount ofsalt you use. Too much will ruinthe effect. You can always use anold brush or a toothpick to removesome salt crystals that are illplaced.You must allow the hairspray tocompletely dry before you moveon to the next step. I suggestwaiting at least 1 hour. One wayyou can tell if it’s completelydry is that the salt crystals aretranslucent when they’re wet, soif they’re opaque and white youknow they’re dry. Also take a smallwhiff- a heavy scent means it’sstill drying.

To be honest, an airbrush is the

best way to apply paint whenyou’re working with paint masking.

If you’re working with largesurfaces then it’s an absolute

necessity! But, since we’reworking with such a small space,we can get away with brushing

on the paint. We’re going to applythe Golden Yellow in several thin

coats for two reasons:

» Because we’re painting

yellow over black

» A thick coat of paint willmake it extremely difficultto remove the salt

Let the paint dry for at least an

hour before you move onto the

next step.

Removing the salt is a slow

process, so be patient with thisstep. You’re going to need a

medium stiffness brush and a tap.Hold the base under cool running

water and gently brush away thesalt. It should take you between7 to 10 minutes to remove all the

salt from beneath the yellow paint,so take your time. Once you’re

confident that all the salt has beenremoved you’re going to need to

set the base aside and let it dryout again. If you try to remove themasking tape now you risk pulling

the paint right off the base. Onceeverything is dry you can remove

the masking tape and admire yourhandiwork.

What’s that? Think we’re done?

Well you’re wrong! This base isgood as it is, but the next part

of this Step By Step will make itlook great! The key to creating

great bases is in the details andthe next part of this series willshow how we can add some great

details with static grass.

The bases featured areavailable from

www.bnsminiature.co.uk

Hinton - 32010

Very nicetutorial (so

far!).

Ulfgrimr - 09-2010

Excellenttutorial CTlooking forto part 2.

BNSminia- 30-09-20

Excellent mgreat work

Iain.

shanerozz30-09-201

Nice tutoriCT and anexcellentuse for samasking.

Vern - 32010

Nice one :

COMMEN

http://www.bnsminiature.co.uk/




Tutorial


by

Darkmessiah

Tools you’ll need are

1. Fast setting (5 mins) clear epoxy glue2. Toothpicks (or an old bit of something for mixing with)3. Clear fishing line (2-4lbs)4. Blu-tac5. Some plastic to mix epoxy on (old blister packs will do)6. Stabby thing

Hi everyone! Well I was making

icicles for my GD entry and there’s a

few minutes of down time betweeneach stage which is plenty of time to

take some pictures! So here is a quick

tutorial on how I

make icicles.

PREPARATION STEP 1

Think about how many icicles you want then double number, this effect often has random results, so the myou do the more choice you’ll have and the better theend result will be. Cut your fishing line up into 4cm st(you need them long so their easier to handle), also out 2 small, equal blobs of your epoxy glue (you wonneeding much), mix them together for a minute or twyou can tell once its mixed as it will go cloudy



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STEP 4

STEP 2 STEP 3

STEP 5

Smear a strip of blu-tac across a surface you can hangyour icicles from (I’ve used my shelf, you could use thetable edge or a plinth, anything that you can suspendyour icicles from without them touching anything. Nowdrag and twist your strips of fishing line through yourepoxy, make sure you pick up plenty of glue (you canalways remove some later on), then hang your icicles up.Try to make them long so you can cut a few up to makeshort icicles.

Now after a few minutes you will see the glue cometogether in small blobs, this is a good thing, it willgive us a random, natural feel, but it will be a little toopronounced. So after the glue has stopped being very

tacky, but before its set (usually around 3 mins) roll theepoxy end in between your fingers to smooth it out a little.The epoxy will lose some of its clarity and turn grey, thatis fine, icicles tend to be a little opaque and once the nextfew layers go on it will give us that effect. Let the glue seta full 5 minutes afterwards.

Pour yourself out some more glue and repeat step twbut when the glue starts to go into little blobs on the

icicles, instead of using your fingers to straighten theedges drag and twist the icicles across the plastic, thway you won’t loose the transparency of the glue. Youmay also want to do this stage a little quicker than thprevious stage because it will be easier to soften theedge with slightly softer glue.

Now, if you’re making icicles for a 28-32mm mini, unlessone of your icicles went wrong you shouldn’t needanother layer of epoxy, if you’re looking at 52mm or more,you may need a few more layers, otherwise, leave youricicles to set for around 10 minutes, they won’t have fully

set yet, they will still be flexible, that’s ok, it will make iteasier for us to position them later. Remove your iciclesfrom the blu-tac and make two cuts, one cut a straightline across the blob at the bottom of the fishing line, thiswill become the top of your icicle. Then make a diagonalcut across the thinnest point of your epoxy, or where theepoxy ends, this will become the bottom of your icicle. Youwill end up with a nice flat surface to glue your icicles anda nice sharp point that will make your icicles realistic.

Time to glue your icicles on! Have a look at some refepictures, look at where water may run off on your see how they bunch together naturally, I find bunchtwo or three look good, with a random one here and with a mix of sizes. I use normal super glue and a ptweezers to place them on the base, once they’re mix up some more epoxy and place a little around theto bond them to the base better and to help them bleto give a more natural feel. And that’s it! It usually around 20 minutes from beginning to end, everythincost you around £6-7 but it will last you for years!

Enjoy, John.



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by

Cregan Tur

Painting Rubble Bases - Pt

Welcome to part two of this Step

By Step series. Last time wepainted our base to look like brokenand crumbling asphalt. This time we’regoing to finish the base by using staticgrass to add some details. You’re goingto need the following materials:

» Static Grass (Dark Green orMedium Green)

» PVA Glue

» Scorpion Green

» Skull White

Using a brush you have set aside for this

kind of work, or a toothpick, place a fewdrops of PVA glue in strategic places onthe base. In my conceptual design forpainting this base I imagined that theasphalt has been broken for some time,so grass would be growing up betweenthe cracks and along the edges. Whenworking with static grass I’ve found it’sbest to work on a piece of paper thatyou’re folded in half and then openedback up. Sprinkle the static grass overthe whole base. To make it stick wellyou’re going to use your fingers to grab a

big pinch of the stuff and then rub it in acircular motion with some light pressureover the areas where the glue is. Thisworks more of the grass material intothe glue and gives it a more natural look.Now, quickly turn the base over and tapthe excess static grass onto the paperyou’re working on. Turn the base rightside up again and blow against the

grass from a downward angle to help

it stand up. You can also use a brushto gently fluff the grass. Once you’vefinished with your application of staticgrass you can use the paper we wereworking on to dump the excess backinto your container. This stuff’s a littleexpensive, so you might as well saveas much as you can! You may want todo this step at night or before you haveto go somewhere because we need tolet the grass completely cure before wecan move onto the next part.

It looks okay with the grass as is, butokay’s not good enough for us, is it? Toreally make the grass pop we’re going to

paint it. For the first step, we’re going touse straight Scorpion Green. Don’t thinthis paint very much at all - we don’t wantit to flow, we just want it to stick wherewe put it. With only a small amount onthe tip of our brush we’re going to gentlyhighlight the grass. This will take a fewpasses, so be patient. Your coveragedoesn’t have to be perfect... in fact itsbest if it’s not. Painting on this colourallows us to layer in some more coloursthat increase the contrast of the grass.You may find that you need to come at

the grass from a couple different anglesto get it- that’s fine, just be careful not toget any on the base itself.

To give the grass a final highlighgoing to make a pretty big colou

Mix together 4:1 Skull White to ScGreen. This is a big colour diffebut don’t worry about it. We’re wwith a very tiny area, each indblade of static grass, so that tinwill trick our eyes into making thelook well blended. Again, we’reto use a very small amount of phighlight just the tops of each bgrass. Don’t thin down this paieither- if this colour runs it could reffect we’re working on.

Congratulations! Once your finahighlight has dried you now hbeautiful base that will make youthe envy of everyone at your gaminI hope you’ve learned somethinthis series of Step By Step aand I hope you’ll check back in f3 in the series where we will pdifferent BNS Miniatures Urban base to look like broken concretgravel and part 4 where we’ll addindustrial debris for our details!

The bases featured are availablwww.bnsminiature.co.uk





Interview


Hi everyone, I’d like to share with you an experiment I tried recently withopinion, great results. This will be my first tutorial so if you have any que

or uncertainties please let me know.

I really like the look of display bases, both in wood or painted black. Unfortumost of these bases are quite expensive. This is a solution for creating display bases that need to be painted.

Cheap & Easy Display Plinth

For this method you will need:

» mould for creating bon-bons (ormini muffins). You can use thesemany times.

» modelling plaster

» spatula

STEP 1:

Create yourself a good working area.Try to use a table that is horizontallylevel. Place your mold(s) on somewaste paper/plastic, because it gets alittle messy.

Because I need only few bases I cut themold in smaller parts. It also increasesworkability.

STEP 2:

Deposit the modelling plaster water as indicated on the packagme I add 2 parts plaster to 1 part

Leave this unmixed for abouminutes, then mix it to a creamy

STEP 3:

After mixing, pour the plaster inmould. You can do this in two waypic):

» Pour over the brim of the mouthe left in the picture)

» Pour to any desired height in mould



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STEP 4:

Wait for about 10-15 minutes. After thatuse a spatula to remove the excessplaster from the mould. When you dothis, you will get an even bottom to thebase. The plaster should still be liquid atthis stage. If not (probably because youlive in a warmer country than me), dothis step earlier after pouring.

Step 5:Wait until the plaster has hardened. Itdoesn’t really matter how long you waitfor this step, better to wait longer thanshorter.

Remove the cast bases from the mould.

In the picture you see the bases Icasted, they have not been sanded.They are 4 cm bases. I also put a GWbase of 25 mm for comparison.

STEP 6:

Finish the bases by sanding them(if you use a clean mould this is notnecessary), then paint it in any colouryou like.

TIPS:

1) If you use mould that are glossy thecast will be cleaner

2) For mixing the plaster use cold waterthat has been previously cooked (todiminish bubbles)

3) If the base proofs to be sucking (?)too much water while painting/spraying,cover the base in diluted PVA gluebefore painted. Make sure that theglue is completely dry before painting/ spraying.

4) If you don’t like using plaster you canalso use these moulds for pouring resin

bases.5) If you want to use the moulds forcooking also, clean them before using ;)

That’s it. Please let me know if you haveany questions regarding this tutorial.I think the bon-bon moulds provethemself very useful. They are availablein many sizes and shapes. Now you caneven make heart-shaped bases :)

Boris - 04-08-2010

Nice tutorial, what a

idea! Do you use smoulds?

TaleSpinner - 04-08-2

Cool idea. One use UltraCal insteaplaster; it will be stroThat is what we nowfor making footprint c

TS

dargrin - 05-08-2010

Very nice. Where doeget these trays?

silvergoose0 - 05-08-

Brilliant idea, never kthat sort of thing exiswhere do you get thefrom? Looked on eba just now, but could onfind cup cake ones!

MaGie - 05-08-2010

You’re welcome.@Boris: Yes, they

flexible silicon mDon’t use hard oneswon’t get your cast ou@TaleSpinner: ThaI’ll have a look at UltraGood tip!@dargrin & silvergooYou can get these min cookshops, but forexpensive ones checpound/dollar/euro shand like Boris menebay is a great resou

seasonman - 29-08-2

tap the moulds strafter pouring it hdispel any locked ibubbles . with a sharon the desk or knocside of the mould .Great article thanks

COMMENTS



Tutorial


by

Cregan Tur

STEP

STEP 3

STEP 6

STEP 2

STEP 5

STEP

STEP

For part 3 of this Step By Step project we’re going topaint a new base to look like concrete slabs lying

over crushed gravel. My colour choices and concept wereinfluenced by looking at the world around me as I go aboutmy day; for instance most of the concrete I encounter is an

off white with yellow or brown shadows and gravel has themost visual impact when it’s a smattering of rocks over dirt.We’re going to use these ideas to paint this base which wewill finish in the 4th and last instalment.

Before we begin you’re going to need the following materials or equivalents:

Painting Rubble Bases - Pt.3

1. Scorched Brown 3. Kommando Khaki 5. Badab Black 7. Bleached Bone

2. Graveyard Earth 4. Fortress Grey 6. Devlan Mud 8. Skull White

Start off by priming your base black. As

in the first installment, it’s fine to use ancolor of primer if you really want to, bu

you’d have to paint the black on byI’d suggest saving yourself the troubpriming black.

We’re going to start off painting only the gravelsections of the base because they’re the most

recessed. If we started with the slabs we’d runa greater risk of getting the wrong color onwhat we’ve already painted. Cover all of the

gravel in Scorched Brown.

Drybrushing in tight spaces can be tricky if youdon’t have the right kind of brush. I used an old

#1 brush. Just be sure you get all of the excessoff the bristles so you’re truly drybrushing andnot smearing the paint. Drybrush Graveyard

Earth over the gravel - be sure you hit all ofthe raised areas.

Once that’s dry, drybrush some KomKhaki on the areas that are raised the

You’re going to want to just barely drbristles over the base. This is acting aa highlight and separating the grave

the dirt. For this next step drybrush FGrey over only the areas of gravel whe

want to establish rocks. Once you’ve lpaint dry for a few minutes you can com

with a wash of Badab Black. Once thahas dried completely follow up with a wDevlan Mud.

This might be a good time to take a break

because you’ll have to let the washes drythoroughly before we can continue with thenext step. Once you’re sure the base is dry,

come back with Fortress Grey and highlightthe rocks you established earlier.

The gravel is done for now, so let’s move on to

the concrete. Start by painting the slabs withGraveyard Earth. It took 3 light coats for me toget nice, even coverage. Take your Bleached

Bone and drybrush it over the slabs. Use itto pick out all of the raised areas and hard

edges because concrete turns white whereit fractures. You’ll even need to do a little light

drybrushing in the gouges and recessed areasto sell the effect.

For our final step, drybrush Skull White o

concrete using light pressure to only pthe raised areas and as an extreme hon all of the hard edges. We’ll finish thi

in our next and last installment where wsome tones back into the concrete, add

details to finish the gravel, and use somto add extra detail.



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STEP 3 STEP 4 STEP

Painting Rubble Bases - P

I found a tiny hole to have one wire originate

from. I placed the end with a bit of superglue,let it dry, bent the wire into a shape I liked, andglued the rest in place. I wanted the grouped setof wire to look different, so I wound it togetherand glued it between the large slabs. It’s okaythat the masking tape can be seen, as we’regoing to paint it to simulate a sheath over thewire. The wire has too much of a plastic sheento leave it unpainted, so I based each one witha different color: Dark Angel’s Green, Scab Red,and Chaos Black. I also painted the maskingtape black.

The base looks pretty good now, but this last

step will finish it off nicely. We’re going to use theremaining colors from our materials list to glaze

on some highlights.

Color Highlights

» Blood Red -> Scab Red

» Codex Grey -> Chaos Black

» Goblin Green -> Dark Angels Green

I’m going to try my best to describe glazing who don’t know what it is. You create a very d

of paint. One way to tell if it has enough watein is to dip a clean brush in your mix and theacross a paper towel. If it leaves a soft blushthen you’ve got a good mix.To glaze color onyou load your brush with a bit of the mix and thit on a paper towel to remove the moisture. Wbrush on your glaze you should see a soft color where your brush stroke is that should dquickly. If it leaves a lot of excess behind or then you’ve got too much on your brush. It’s take multiple coats to build up your glaze cthese results in smooth colour transitions. Ondone, you’ll have a great looking and very uniq

by

Cregan TurW

e’ve finally arrived at the last installment of this ststep series and we’ll be putting the finishing to

on the concrete and gravel style base we painted lasSo, grab your base and the following list of materials anget started.

1. Ogryn Flesh 6. Badab Black 11. Codex Grey

2. Skull White 7. Dark Angel’s Green 12. Blood Red

3. Shadow Grey 8. Chaos Black 13. Some wire- Iusing the wiring froold USB cable

4. Terracotta 9. Scab Red

5. Devlan Mud 10. Goblin Green

You’re going to need:

STEP 1 STEP

When we ended last time the concrete was a little too bright, so give theslabs a wash with Ogryn Flesh. Make sure you don’t overdo it- we just

want to darken the recesses and tone down the white a very tiny bit.

That’s everything for the concrete; now we’ll turn out attention to the gravel.

To add some more color and variety we’re going to pick out individualbits with different colors. For this base it was easy to make out individual

stones that I could paint. I used Skull White for quartz, Shadow Grey forsomething like crushed granite or another dark stone, and Terracotta forsome more color variation. Once you’re done picking out these details

give the gravel section a wash with Devlan Mud and then Badab Black.

To add some special details I’ve decided to have wiring curl oubeneath the concrete. Almost everyone has some old piece of elec

they can strip some wiring from. In my stash I have some old swire, phone wire, coaxial cable, and the plug from an old USB dev

be using the USB cable this time.

USB cables have 4 wires in them, but I had used 1 from this piece

but 3 is exactly what I need.

I cut the wires ½” long. I want two of them to remain together, so I w

the end with a bit of masking tape and cut away the excess tape need.

Base byCregan Tur



Tutorial


WHAT’S THE BASE?

The base in this step by step is for a Knight of Santiago frominifinity, I was trying to create the idea he is running througha futuristic temple like building.

THE STEP BY STEP

Above, you can see a quick mock up of the base with the mini,the line on the floor is the step down and the plasticard tubeis there to show the column and a of course a little doodle ofwhat I want the column to look like.

I started by measuring thediameter of my base and then

cutting out a circle to fit it with

a very useful compass cutter (nice accurate circlestime!). Now the circle is made from a product called Foit’s a very, very tough foam board that’s easy to cut andsharp lines into. If you’re struggling to find Foamex youse plasticard or stuff like Uriel.

The compass cutterdid a pretty good job, but not perfect,the Foamex circleis glued downand filed flat with

the side of theplinth. To helpcreate a smooth join between theFoamex and the wooden plinth, both the plinth aFoamex were heavily sanded with fine grit sandpapersmeared milliput over the join and spread it very thin well licked thumb (other less toxic friction reduction mare available). I chose milliput to cover the join bec

Right, so what’s going on here then, ah yes! Hello and welcome to my sci-fi base step

by step. One of the things I love about our hobby is how painters can take minis an

construct stories, develop atmospheres around what is essentially a lump of metal (r

and or plastic) and really grow and develop its character. One way which I enjoy try

to do that is with basing, so I’ve been taking a lot of pictures of recent base builds w

the aim of sharing a few step by steps with you lovely people with the hope that you

learn and try out some new things!

Step by Step - Dark Makes a Sci-fi Temple Base

By Darkmessiah



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know I can spread it to a very thin layer and it’s fantastic tosand smooth. In the final picture you can see the front sectionI’ve removed for the step.

To speed up the process I used a putty oven, this heats theputty up so it cures quicker, I can get a full cure of milliput inabout 25 mins (compared with 2 hours+). As you can see it’sa lamp put over and inside a tin can (a Jean Paul Gaultier tincan to be precise), inside theirs a spray can top sat on Legobricks, the spray can top holds what am curing and the Lego

controls the height, obviously the closer to the bulb the hotterit is, the quicker it cures, it’s a very useful tool. Be careful withplastics, things like slotta bases will warp if left too long.

THE COLUMN

So now the columna lovely new tool I especially, a pipe cuttthe tube in, twist it rounget a nice clean straigmakes things so much So I’ve taken the otube I had, cut it in tw

slipped a smaller tubethe middle, if you’reand well stocked you’two tubes that fit petogether, unfortunately and had to plug the gasome milliput.

The column was left to the putty oven and I astarted on the step point, but to keep the sstep easy to read I’ll se

the column and stepYou can see in the pics I’ve scored the cin two places, this was

gently using the pipe cutter. You can also see I’ve smmilliput into the gap at the end of the large tube doto the smaller, middle tube, this created the curved adidn’t use any tools, just the old thumb. This was left to

Once cured I smeared more milliput from the edge curve on to the middle, smaller column, this was tmake the curve smoother, again the column was left tThen began the very long and boring process of spray

column black (why black? Because it makes it easy problem areas and areas that need more work, in thpicture you can clearly see that the line where the mmeets the tube) and sanding it back, spray it black, back. This was done several times until the column’swas VERY smooth. I’ve used an airbrush to apply thepaint, it sprays a nice thin layer that wont obscure deyou’re using a spray can to do this, be careful! Make suuse several thin layers of paint.



Tutorial


So, now on to the centre piece, I drilled a hole out, filled it withmilliput and left to cure. Once cured I lobbed one of my roundgrinding Dremel bits in to my pin vice and gently created theconcave half sphere the gem would sit in. Now the easiestway to make a gem is using ball bearings, you drill the hole,glue the ball in and Bob’s your uncle! Now if you like me andyou don’t have the right size ball bearing (or haven’t got the

patience to track down a place that sells the right size, buy‘em and wait a few days for them to arrive in the post) you canmake one out of green stuff. You take a blob of the ‘ald greenstuff, roll it in your fingers so it’s nice and smooth, place it into the palm of your hand and using the tip of your finger drawcircles with it, the tighter the circle the rounder the gem willbe. Now this is a great technique I use for making lots of smallgems, in this case, despite rolling around 20 of the bloodythings I couldn’t make a round enough ball (this says more

about my fussiness than the technique), so I just decsculpt one. It can take a lot of tweaking and messingto get it right, but if you’re comfortable sculpting haveif you’re not so comfortable, the GS ball technique wiif you put the time in, if you’re still struggling, go bassortment of different size ball bearings, they can buseful.

Small nicks and littlecorrections were made bypainting on some milliput juice, just take a damp ‘ald

brush and work the milliputuntil it breaks down intoa thick liquid (think kindayogurty thick), paint it on,let it cure and sand it likenormal milliput, this is agreat technique to smoothlarge areas of rough casts,such as cloaks and armour.



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THE STEP

So with the column ‘finished’ I started work on the step, now I didn’thave a plan for the step, but I knew I wanted some curves, so lobbedsome milliput down, smoothed it out so it’s was nice and even and thenpushed some thick brass rod (1.5mm I think) along the step and madetwo half cylinder indentations, I came in with a Taper Clayshaper just toensure the lines were straight and to do a little smoothing. As you cansee in the last pic, the curves weren’t perfectly smooth or round but thegreat thing about milliput is that those corrections can be made easilyenough with some fine grit sandpaper.

The sanding begins anew! The back was just sanded smooth (600 gritsand paper), it was sprayed black like the column to bring out the faultsand then re-sanded until smooth. The steps I approached in the same

way, but I folded the sandpaper back on itself a few times to get a nicecurved edge so it would follow the contours of the sculpting I had alreadydone. In the last two pics you can see I’ve used the compass cutter tomake a circle around the column and marked lines out to score to createpulsing energy lines I’ll paint in later. The lines were first scored with ascalpel (or Xacto knife) and then widened with the compass point; I onlyused half the lines as I wanted to keep the base simple.



Tutorial


From their I decided I wanted to do a base with puenergy lines and glowing gems, typical anime sci-fi sgive the base a focal point I wanted to use a columnthe column does a few things, it allows me to control the viewer looks on first glance, in conjunction with ththey creates the top and bottom of a frame, a boundathe viewer isn’t allowed to look outside of, but is forlook in to the middle of. This effect is further exaggby fixing the middle of the column with a gem, the g

placed level with, to me, the most important parts mini and that’s his face and his sword. The columincreases the level of complexity to the piece, but is enough not to draw attention away from the mini, it alsa story element, columns are usually associated withimportant, powerful buildings, as a knight the mini mabe attacking or defending such a building. The curthe step also adds to the simple complexity,as does the circle and lines around thecolumn, once painted the energy lineson the floor will draw the viewers eye tothe column, then to the gem and thento important parts of the mini. Because

there’s so much focus on the minis faceand sword, if their painted to a highstandard they will distract the vieweraway from areas that may have littlemistakes or areas which may not beas strong, giving the impression thatthe mini is at a high standard then itactually is, this idea I picked up fromAlfonso Giraldes (banshee on CMoN),it’s an idea he has used on a lot of histrophy winning minis.

Bon Appetite!John

THE FINAL BASE

THE THEORY BEHIND THE BASE

I decided to lob the theory of the base at the end because it’sa lot of text and didn’t want people to have to wade throughthe heavy stuff before getting to the fun stuff, hopefully thiswill give you a little insight into how I approach my basesand show you that when I approach serious pieces a lot ofthought goes into how the base interacts with the mini andhow I try to use basing to enhance the mini I’m working on.

So, I was looking to get away from the sorta’ typical realisticsci-fi paintjob a lot of people paint infinity stuff with so Idecided to try and push it towards a more anime sci-fi style. Ihad a quick look for some inspiration and quickly found somereference pictures Tron and Zone of the Enders. Both pictureswere a good fit with the style I wanted and each had someelement of the mini in them.



Tutorial


Banelegions Kaastaruk Step by Step Tutorial Part Tw

By Darklord

This is the second part of my ste

step guide to painting and basi

Banelegions Kaastaruk . This pa

will focus on creating and paint

the base.

If you haven’t already seen how

painted the Minotaur you can re

it here: Kaastaruk Tutorial Part O

or download Portal Issue 13.

To create the base I used the following mate

» Wooden Plinth

» Natural Slate

» MiniNatur Tufts

» MiniNatur PoisonIvy

» Jewellery Chain

» Plastic Sword

» Natural Foliag

» Sand

» MDP Pigment

While this step by step uses a large displaymany of the basics can be used easily on stagaming bases without much issue.

Right time to get started.



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Step 1

The first thing I want to do is create some depth to the baseand make it more visually interesting. I do this by adding anangle to the base top, simply by sawing diagonally across theplinth. Make sure you leave an area flat in one corner for theminiature itself to stand on. The cut doesn’t need to be neatas its covered up later anyway. I use a normal hand saw forthis.

Step 2

Next I want to create further angles into the gradient. I partly to create more angles (as land is rarely flat!) bplaces that I can affix the slate too. Again this can be rcut. I used a jewellers saw for this step as a hand salittle big but you can use various saws depending oyou have handy.

Step 3

I now take some pieces of slate and glue them onto theon the flat ledges I created in the previous step. Once take some Green Stuff and place it on the undersidesslate to help create a strong bond and also to smoosome of the rougher angles.

I also dry fitted the mini to the base at this point. I couple of flattish pieces of Green Stuff and place itwhere his feet will sit. I then gently press him into plahis feet will create an imprint in the green stuff. This sure he will have a perfect join between him and thewhen put in place. Make sure you don’t cover the prinon this green stuff with any ground covering!



Tutorial


Step 4

The next step is to start to dress the base a little. I add somedetails to help create more interest, nothing that wouldoverpower the base but enough to stop it looking to plain. Iwrap some jewellery chain (taken from an unwanted necklaceof the wife’s - ask first though!) and part of some plastic spearI found in my bit box. I also found a cart wheel and a swordso I added these in. I took care to make these look longabandoned and semi buried so chopped a little off them tohelp create this effect. Once this was done I applied somepva across the base excluding any area I wanted to remainshowing. I then sprinkled some sand onto this to create thebasic ground covering. I made sure some of this overlappedonto the chain and wheel to make them look part of thingsrather than just stuck on top!

Step 5

Now its time to get painting! I paint the earth startina GW Graveyard Earth basecoat then apply a wGW Devlan Mud. Next I brushwood more Graveyardfollowed by GW Khommando Khaki. The slate was pwith a basecoat of GW Space Wolves Grey then dry-bwith VMC Silver Grey. Several diluted coats of GW LevPurple were applied. The chain,sword and studs on thwheel were all painted with a GW Adeptus Battle Grethen I added Silver Grey to the mix (around 50/50 ratiworked the highlights up. I continued to add more Silveto the mix to get to the extreme highlights. The cartwas painted VMC Chocolate with a Devlan Mud wash highlighted with Chocolate then Khommando Khaki.

Step 6

The final step is to apply the last bits of dressing. Firstly I will usepigments (these particular ones are from MDP) to add in a little and colour interest on the base. I use some MDP Red Oxide andMexico Yellow on the metal areas to create a rusty effect. To apppigments I simply use an old brush to dab it onto the selected building it up until it looks right. I use MDP Burnt Umber on theconcentrating around the rocks. A little MDP Raw Sienna was also

here and there on the earth to create some contrast. On the rocks MDP Raw Umber to add a fine covering and to tint it towards the con the rest of the base. This helps create more unity and make it llittle more natural.

The final process was to add the foliage. I used some tufts and Ivy from MiniNatur as well as some natural mosses and lichen frogarden. The natural stuff needs to be treated with Glycerin first. If yoto do this I wrote an article on how to use real foliage on your base

http://www.wamp-forum.com/content.php?267-How-to-use-Real-plants-in-your-miniature-bases

http://www.wamp-forum.com/content.php?267-How-to-use-Real-plants-in-your-miniature-bases



Tutorial


How to Create Real-Looking Grass

Hi everyone

Let’s start with a first article

about one of the first secrets that

eludes many people who try

their chance in modelling; how

to realize the grass in a realistic

manner.

Tools of the trade: you will need a couple of

medium-sized brushes, some glue for wood

(vinavil), water, synthetic (fibre) grass, latex

gloves, and some acrylic colours.

How to start:

Once the model has been painted fully, you need to mwater and vinavil (80% vinavil, 20% water). This is duthe fact that the water will break the superficial tensiothe vinavil, thus preventing it from creating a thin layedry glue thatwould stickimmediatelyto the grass,which wouldprevent it toglue to yourdiorama ina suitablefashionafterwards.



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Mix the two, to allow the vinavil to be more fluid. Once themixture is done, use a brush to spread the vinavil in allthe areas where you want to put the grass. It should beremembered that grass doesn’t usually grow on walls

Once you have laid the vinavil, take the grass into hand andlet it spread on every related area. Don’t hesitate to use a lotof grass this way, more than it seems reasonable: the excessgrass won’t glue anyway, and you will be able to retrieve it forlater use afterwards.

Of course, to be able to retrieve easily the excess grass, Iwould advise you to first put some newspaper under themodel, so to facilitate its gathering once the work is done

Once all the areas of vinavil are covered with grass, platex gloves on, and press with your palms the grass vinavil. Once the vinavil is dry (it will take approximahours), use a big dry brush to move away all excess g

The result you will obtain is very interesting as you cain the picture, but not fully realistic yet …. the grass ha

somewhat vivid and phosphorescent green colour…

Get on to the next step: make the grass get a realistic



Tutorial




Tutorial


HOW TO REALIZE REAL-LOOKING BUSHES

Let’s first have an overview of the

diorama, fully completed withthe previous grass step, just before the

work with the bushes.

Tools of the trade needed:

Like for the grass, bushes do not

require a lot of material. You need

least 2 different types of green poone very thin and of clear colour,

the other more thick and darker. T

powders from Noch (used for trai

diorama) are a perfect choice.

Then, you need some lichens. Yo

find them too into the same mode

shops you can find the powder, b

also in floriculture centres (where

After showing you how to

realise real-looking grass, Iwill explain how to do the

same with bushes.



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usually cheaper and in bigger quantity).

You’ll need of course the vinalil (glue for wood) and a half-full glass of water.

Add some latex gloves and tweezers.

Now let’s get to work: mix the two powders inside acardboard box. Mix everything well, until you get anhomogeneous result.

Then add the vinavil to the water, until you see the level ofthe liquid reaching 2/3 of the glass. Mix the two together.The final result should be something very fluid, still mostlywater-like.

Now divide/cut the lichens into small pieces of no morethan 7-8cm. The bigger they are, the more complex it is towork with them. Anyway, once treated, the bushes can stillbe divided into smaller pieces, as needed, to better makethem fit following your needs into the diorama. The idealdimension is the one seen in the picture.

Take then one lichen with the tweezers, and immerge it intothe glass (vinavil/water), and then squeeze it with your hand(in the latex glove) to let the excess liquid drop, and put it ona sheet of newspaper.

Repeat the operation until you have some 5-6 lichens

Immediately start, then, to put the lichens full of glue i

the powder mix, before they start drying.

It is important to note that you can’t really prepare mor

5-6 lichens at a time, due to the glue drying (and you w

to happen on the diorama, not on the newspaper!). 5-6

good number to still not have a painstakingly slow pro

while not risking to waste lichens.

How to place your bush on the diorama:

First, use a brush of medium size to put some vinavil w

you want your bush to be. For this process, do not usediluted solution of water and vinavil, but straight vinavi

Then put the bush (which is still wet with the water/vin

solution) in place. You will see that the vinavil in place,

dense, will more or less fix the bush there.

Do not worry about the bush losing part of the powde

or about it being somewhat flattened, due to you press

in place.



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Ofcourse,you can pushthe process even more,and getting even more realisticresults … but this will be the subject ofanother article…

… I will however tell you that you can get some interestingnew vegetation with fennel tufts and oregano ..

Until next time, Lorenzo-Maniachouse-Marchetto



By Manorhouse Worksho

For us modellers it opens

a wide range of possibilities torealise whatever we wish at a very

affordable price. You just need an

idea …

Hi everyone, This month I want to illustrate you the possibilthe high-density polystyrene and how to work with it.

This material is widely used in the building and delivery sand for us, modellers, it opens a wide range of possibilities to whatever we wish at a very affordable price. You just need an i

Let’s start with all the tools of the trade needed

The first 3 pictures on the next page show us various toomaterials that are often used with polystyrene. Like you cathose tools and materials are all cheap and simple, easily foubought in any do-it-yourself shopping centre. The most exptools are the jigsaw and the miniature drill with the flexiblebut even those are nowadays found at accessible prices, a20-30 $ a piece.

The tools having been shown, let’sabout this wonderful high-density polysand its thousand uses.

One of the simplest but also greatestis that it can substitute wood to create for your diorama, making the whole a lolighter but still very sturdy. This base hasthickness which can, once painted in bdark brown, act like a natural frame fodiorama, without needing to add anythin

How to work with

high-density polystyrene

T his month, those nice folks at

Manorhouse Workshop show us

how to use High Density Polystyrene,either for making gaming terrain or

scenery that helps us better show off

our painted miniatures better.

http://www.wamp-forum.com/



http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/portal-tutorial-es 29/5818 www.wamp-forum.com

so as long as the vinavil isn’t dry, they could exit their posit

continue working on the polystyrene sheets.

How to work with the polystyrene

I often use polystyrene sheets of 2cm thickness for the base, but

also for creating the geography (height) of the diorama’s landscape.

Polystyrene sheets can be used like you would use wooden slabs

… you can screw and nail them together easily, to create your

landscape. Also, you can use the classical vinavil (wooden glue)

for added reinforcement.

In the side picture you can see how the 2 sheets of polystyrene

have been glued first together, and then fixed with screws. You

can also use simple nails, but then, you need to push them into

the surface with your fingers, and not by pummelling them with a

hammer. When using nails, it is always better to push them into the

polystyrene diagonally and in different directions: this will help fixing

the panels together. Nails have the added problem of being smooth





Polystyrene can be worked with in various ways. In this article

we’ll deal with a complex base for buildings.

I always start those bases by selecting and preparing the various

parts I need, by cutting them with a sharp and big cutter, which

allows me a clean and safe cut on the 2cm of thickness. Then I put

the various parts together and if necessary, I continue modifying

them as needed.

In fact, there are some particular operations that are best to do

once all parts are stuck together… As you can see in these pictures,

where the already assembled polystyrene is worked with a jigsaw,

cutter, and then with sand paper.

The high-density polystyrene can be really worked with a lot oftools and in a lot of ways.

So, like I said in the beginning, the limit is only our own fantasy, as

you will be able to see in a soon-to-appear series of articles about

this wonderful material.

In the next article, you will see how you can realize a very realistic

landscape using polystyrene sheets.

Cheers, Lorenzo “Maniachouse” Marchetto





How to produce

A largescale sculpt

The technical aspect of mounting something this size and

weight in such a precarious manner will also be addressed

later on however weight is something that needs to be addressed

right from the start.

by CASSAR

A how to guide to producing a

scratch built large-scale sculpt

of your favourite mini, for the

purpose of this article I amgoing to do as step by step

on the ASSAULT MARINE.

One of the most important parts of any build “know w

want to achieve” and get it clear in your minds eye in wha

is best to proceed.)

I start the actual build by forming the major componen

an attempt to save we

Milliput I use anythiplastic aerosol lids to p

pipe to form the Torso

(basically you are left w

tubes), I do the same

legs but the hip/pelvis

has to be solid as th

main load bearing com

At this stage it doesn

what it looks like, it’s

One of the most important parts

of any build “know what you want to

achieve” and get it clear in your minds

eye in what order it is best to proceed.





base foundations at this stage. I then pop the components near a

heat source it helps them harden (if you’ve been a bit lazy with the

mixing it will cure with heat, you should always do 50/50 mix and

make sure there are no visible streaks through the Milliput).

Once you are happy with the rough size and proportions it’s time to

get sanding with the big gun! This saves time and really with practice

you can really achieve razor sharp lines.

The shoulder pads are another “big” item that can be done quickly

and easily for this build. I used a full packet of Milliput standard

yellow grey to do the two pads and it’s important to knead the putty

completely, although if you do something like a Nurgle marine I’ve

found that not mixing it properly can give some fairly spectacularrotting effects. Once the putty’s prepped roll it into a sausage shape

and split it in two equal halves, this ensures the pads are the same

size. Roll the two into separate balls and leave them to cure for say

half an hour to three quarters of an hour, this stops the shoulder

pauldrons slumping out of shape. The easiest way I’ve found is to

shape the putty around my thumb and form the rough shape before

placing them on a piece of plasticard, I use plasticard to let most

of the putty components set on because you can bend it and the

pieces just pop off.

Once they set, usually 3-4 hours for rock hard, I then sand

down. All of the component parts of the “rough build” are don

or less in this manner.

The jet pack was a special request and took some consid

thought to plan out, weight saving measure being paramoun

The two pods where formed around two pieces of plast

(like the stuff under your sink, 1 inch I think). The Milliput faround the pipe had to be shaped like a barrel (for that retro

to form the body of the pods. The barrel shapes where then sa

the two exhaust ports were made by shaping the putty into

(I had to ensure that they fitted the bottom of the pod) then s

the end off and using a dremmel cutting wheel to cut groov

them. For the main body of the jet pack I used rods of Millip

sort of crucifix form then built up the outside cove using roll

sheets of putty. This was done in several stages allowing th

from each stage to fully set.

First of all tools of the trade, you’re going to need the following

as I’m not aware of another method for achieving the sharp edges

and smooth surfaces that these tools can produce.

Firstly the big gun, a bench sander, preferably with a vacuum

attachment as the dust from Milliput is extremely hazardous to

your well being (dust mask and glasses wouldn’t go amiss).

Second a Dremmel, one with the variable speed control and

the flexible pen attachment plus a large assortment of cutting

bits of different sizes and shapes for getting at all those diff

to reach places.

Then we come down to the manually operated stuff (elb

grease essential), needle files, sculpting tools and the larger

for the rougher shaping of the larger pieces.

Other essentials are various grades of sandpaper both nor

and wet‘n’dry, heavy duty solder wire and super glue and of cou

Milliput (I use standard yellow grey).





“Putting the jet pack together” this is done by using thick solder

wire, it’s great stuff strong and pliable, Firstly I drill the connection

points out glue in the solder wire then connect the pieces together

(I only glue one part at this stage for ease of adjustment).

Once I have a framework like this I can then start on things like

the turbines (a seriously fiddly business) and the turbine covers and

other flaps and so on.

The turbo fans were made by using a plastic bottle top as a

template (attach the Milliput to it and leave it there this gives you

something to hold onto when sculpting) then I used a Stanley blade

to press the individual turbine blades working from the centre (use

loads of water for this to prevent the Milliput sticking) keep working

around the disc until satisfied with the uniformity by the time all this

is done the disc of Milliput will have increased past the edges of the

template (bottle top), this is where the top comes in handy again, I

use the belt sander to sand away the excess while using the top to

keep the whole thing circular. The turbo cones are made

over pieces of rolled out Milliput I use the sander to sharp

much like a pencil then cut them to size. The air brakes/

formed in rough shapes then refined using the dremmel

nice curved shape.

The legs sections are constructed as separate hollow tu

the ends filled in. I then formed up the heavy overlapped a

the lower legs and used a dremmell cutting bit to carve out

for the shock absorbers/springs (made from wire), on the

the calves. The left leg presents very little dif ficulty as it’s n

bearing part of the Marine however the right leg has to b

continuously from the hips all the way through the leg, foot a

through the ruined window frame the sculpt will eventually

this again is where the solder wire comes into its own, at t

the marine’s legs aren’t fixed into any real pose as the to

jetpack have to be balanced through this one point.

The torso section

by this time has been

sanded neck guards

added and the jet pack

straps and rear mounts

added, again solder

wire is used to form the

piping at the belly the

hip section and torsoare all joined together

using a good amount of

super glue. I also made

a throat guard for this sculpt as the theme throughout the

meant to convey “early pre-heresy” type armour.

The shoulder pads are then compared to the torso to m

the proportions are correct, a wee tip if they seem too s

them as the inner pads and form the outer using them as





careful they don’t stick there permanently. Once that’s done work

can start on the arms.

The shoulder pauldrons are then sanded in a sink full of Luke warm

water (get used to that it’s the only way to get the smooth finish) all

the visible components should be finished off in this manner before

adding details like plating decals etc (another tip. I use washing up

liquid with the wet’n’dry paper; it makes the water stick to the surface

longer and allows a finer finish).

Once this is done I then add the shoulder details, Chaptermarkings, etc. I find it easier to do them on a piece of plasticard

then transfer them onto the surface like a transfer this stops too much

damage being done to the sanded surface with sculpting tools etc.

Once the leg componen

joined together with the

wire they can be bent into p

(balanced) before using

amounts of Milliput around th

to fix them permanently in

Once these first fixings are

the joints can be filled out

more Milliput to make a goo

join between the componen

The ribbed joint effect is

using a cocktail stick in a br

action. Once that’s done I fi

using a paint brush and ple

water really smooths the

nicely.

The arms are done us

rough sausage of Millipu

into the required shape an

left to set once set I then

ribbed elbow joint before att

the armour proper to the

and forearm, once set, it’s b

the belt sander to get that

flat machined look, I als

the dremmel depending o

accessibility as the cutting tool can get right in to the elbows

The arms are then fixed into the shoulder pauldrons with

glue and fitted to the torso by means of... Yep you guessed it,

wire. Once I’m happy with the position I then fill in the gaps be

the pauldrons and the upper arm with more Milliput to secure

permanent fixing.

This is the stage when some more bling and detailing c

added, namely the strip/rivet plates and the rivet holes can be

out I use a dremmel bore hole drill (it’s thinner than regular dabout the diameter of a pin, which comes in handy later). On

holes are done I then use snipe nose pliers to hold a pin he

regular pliers to snip off the main body of the pin around 4mm

from the head (careful the pins can fly off in all directions).

apply a little super glue to the now considerably shorter pin

then seat it into a hole.

Other parts that I

can give tips for would

be the brush on the

helmet that’s formed

roughly then sanded

into shape then I apply

a thin layer of Milliputaround the core before

using a Stanley blade to

chop away gently until I

get the desired hair like

effect.

The base section is

formed by using about

one and a half packets





of Milliput then forming it on a plastic (Tupperware) lid the re

this is twofold, one the plastic can be bent off one the putty c

secondly it give a good guide for keeping the whole piece

once its set I then sand it on the belt sander. The window

the assault marine to perch on was press moulded in the e

large 2 litre paint lid (plastic too) once it set I removed it cu

and then joined the two pieces back to back to produce t

carved window effect (filling in any gaps with more Milliput

The sword and shi

again rough shap

sanded before detail

hands were fixed to th

and shield not to the a

makes it easier to j

position correctly. Th

on the sword blade was done

again with the bore hole bits

and a steady hand. Once the

component parts are all blinged

out and the detailing done the

only thing left to do is tack the

whole thing together and make

sure that everything is to scale

and perfect.




http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/portal-tutorial-es 36/5820 wampforum.com

UMS “Agram” was established in 2003. as an initiative of a few

enthusiasts for strategic tabletop wargames who wanted to gather

and enjoy their hobby and organize tournaments in strategic tabletop

wargames. As the number of members and the increase in attendance

of the international tournaments organized by UMS “Agram”, the need

for a large number of terrain soon became apparent. Therefore, the

Workshop for the making of terrain and painting miniatu

formed by the Association. In its ten-year existence, the W

has produced over two thousand pieces of terrain and sever

projects like Mordheim medieval monastery, a few Bloodbo

boards, a medieval town hall with an atrium, a City of Deat

board and Pirate’s Cove gaming board, to name but a few

Awesome TerrainOver the next few issues Portal, in

conjunction with UMS “Agram”

and Marko Paunovic (aka

Demonn) will be running a series

of tutorials about building terrain.

Taking you up through beginnertechniques through to advanced

stuff like adding lighting, lasers

and smoke machines (I kid you

not!) So to kick off this series

we’re giving you a heads up

introduction that explains what

you’ll need to complete the tasksahead.

by Marko Paunovic (aka Demon




http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/portal-tutorial-es 37/58wampforum.com

INTRODUCTION

These series of articles are all excerpts from a script I wrote

primarily for students of a program my club (UMS “Agram” – www.

ums-agram.hr/eng *) organizes as a part of the City of Zagreb’s

Prevention of unwanted behaviour of youth and minors project in

order to keep the kids off the street and give them some quality

after school time. The program and these articles are made for

both the beginners and advanced modelers.

It must be noted that this series of articles will deal with models

(ie terrain) for tabletop strategy games. In designing such terrain

one should take account of two mutually contradictory guidelines.

One is a sense of realism, while the second is playability. Increasing

the realism of terrain decreases its playability and vice versa.

Namely, if we take the example of a game like Warhammer 40,000

whose miniatures are roughly in scale 1:50, one smallish tower

100m high and with a base of 25x25m in this scale will be 2m high

and have a base of 0,5 x 0,5m, which is practically impossible to

place on tabletop. Therefore, attention has been focused only on

the playability, in other words that all the places on the terrain are

accessible to players (or their miniatures). Furthermore, during

the construction of terrain for tabletop strategy games, it is vital to

follow certain rules that the game itself sets (such as the number

of terrain at the gaming tables, the type of individual terrain and

their size, etc.).

Readers who are interested only in realistic terrain replica

one that does not engage in strategic tabletop games) do not

to immediately stop reading these articles because all the met

tools and materials are the same for both “types” of mode

They differ only in the geometric relationships between diff

dimensions.

Prior to the actual build, one should be very familiar wit

tools and materials used, especially their characteristics in mcontact. Thus, for example, high density polystyrene will be eat

any sprays or even oil paints, and it should be previously prote

Therefore, I strongly recommend that the modeller study wel

and what they work with before one starts the project planni

Planning is the second stage in the development of the m

As with other projects, planning is also important in terrain buil

It saves both time and money. Specifically, prior to making

models, it is wise to create a technical drawing or draft, prefera

scale. For it is then clear how much of this material should be

and how much of that. Then you can make a list of the neces

materials. After that, one can proceed with the purchas

materials. All materials (and tools for that matter) that are discu

in these articles are easily available in most hobby and DIY st

Then follows the actual construction of terrain.

Low Density Styrofoam

Inexpensive, easy to cut.

Easily damaged, the

ball-like structure can

be seen along the cut.

Dissolves in contact with

superglue and spray.

High density styrofoam

Inexpensive, easy to cut

and easily damaged.

Unlike low density

styrofoam, can be cut

without structure showing.

Also, dissolves in contact

with superglue and spray.

Balsa wood

Easily cut by scalpel,

lightweight, usually

comes in slats of different

thickness (width x

length: 10x100cm).

Thinner balsa has no

load bearing capability.

Wooden slats (linde

Smaller sizes are

easy to cut, good loa

bearing capacity, can

be pinned (drilled).

Larger dimensions

require sawing.

Cardboard

Easy to cut with sciss

No strength.

When wet bends a lo

Clay (air drying)

Easy to use when

sculpting or modeling

Air-drying clay does

crack during drying.

Heavy when set.


http://www.ums-agram.hr/eng







Superglue

Instantly glues almost all

materials. Dangerous in

contact with the eyes /

mouth / nose. When glued

to the fingers - DO NOT pull!

Put the fingers under warm

water and gently crumble.

Dissolves polystyrene and not good for use on large areas because

of the evaporation fumes!

PVA glue

Dilutable in water,

inexpensive, glues

everything except metal.

Long drying time

(approximately 6 hours).

Cork

It comes in various

thicknesses, easily breaks

/ cuts, after painting has

a stone-like texture, can

be glued by PVA and

superglue and thinner

panels have no load bearing

capability so are to be

used only for decoration

Sand / Gravel

It is used for the texture,

smallest granulate (sand

for chinchillas) is good for

representing mortar, larger

granulates are good for

the earth, dirt and smaller

stones and rocks.

When Styrofoam is used, it is best to cover it with a layer of sand

glued by PVA for protection against dissolving by sprays or superglue.

Static grass

Displays the grass

in real life, comes in

various lengths, to be

glued with PVA.

Messy method. In order

to protect it, cover the

workplace with newspaper.

Foliage

For representing m

low bushes / foliag

leaves. To be glued

PVA glue. Can be

with superglue, als

MDF

For making bases

of the terrain.

Doesn’t bend easil

unless too much w

is used in PVA.

Has to be sawed.

Wire

For pining

For making wire

frames of the trees

Scalpel blade

Dangerous, shar

handled with ca

use, draw in the bla

through almost all m

Marker pen

For marking and dr

various materials.





Rulers

For meassuring

and marking.

Files

For filing wooden and

surfaces.

Sanding paper

For sanding the styrofoam

or freshly sawed wooden

pieces.

Pinchers and tweez

For easier manipula

awkward parts.

Pliers

For bending and cutting the

wire.

Brushes

For painting those s

parts of terrain

precise).

Modeller’s saw (and other

saws)

For sawing (MDF or larger

wooden slats).

Large brushes

For painting/drybru

larger areas.

Pinvice

Handheld drill used for

pinning.

Scissors

For cutting (mostly

cardboard).





Figure 1

On your piece of high density styrofoam draw an irregular

shape with a marker pen, which will form the shape of

your terrain (Figure 1).

Try to save as much of the material as possible. Take a scalpel

blade and perpendicular to the high density styrofoam surface pull

the blade of the knife to cut you base. When you cut it, it should

look like Figure 2.

Now cut the edges of your base at an angle around and then two

more times every time at a lower angle like in steps 1-3 in Figure 3.

Then smooth all the irregularities with sandpaper. Eventually, your

finished base should look like the example in Figure 4.

This concludes the manufacture of the base of the terrain.

In this article, we’ll deal with making a simple terrain. It will c

all the steps needed in completing a small terrain for table-top w

explaining the most usual techniques in terrain-building. Altho

it is primarily made for beginners, I think many modelers will

it useful. as using the techniques explained below, you can m

even the most intricate scenery.

by Marko Paunovic (aka DemonAwesome Terrain





Figure 2

Figure 3 Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 9

Figure 10

Texturing

Spread the newspaper over your work surface. Then, over the

base of the terrain, apply the PVA glue with a brush (lightly soaked

in water). Once you have covered the entire base with the PVA glue

sprinkle sand or gravel as you wish.

Cor k , b r ok en

up into pieces to

represent the stone

road. If you use it,

you first paste it to

your base so the fine

sand can fill the gap

between the ‘’stone’’

tiles. (Figure 5)

Then draw a hole on

the front wall for the door,

and then using a scalpel

blade cut the hole out. To

make a window on the

collapsed walls, draw the

outlines of the windows

and cut as shown in

Figure 9.

Stab wire pins

in your walls from

below so tha t

protrude from the

walls on their lower

side. Then paste

using PVA glue your

walls to the selected

location on the base

of the terrain, and the

pins can be used for

connecting the walls

to make the hold

better (as in Figure

10). Make sure that

the pins do not break through the wall!

Once the walls are glued together, apply a thin layer of wa

down PVA glue and pour the chinchilla sand (finest gravel

could find) over it. It is great for emulating the texture of the m

façade.

Detailwork

Next come the basic details that you can put on your build

Larger sand,

for the grassy or

‘’ordinary’’ earthy

sections (Figure 6)

Fine sand - the

paths and roads, the

cliffs and mortar on

buildings (more on it

later) as in Figure 7.

Constructing a ruin/house

On your piece of balsa wood (5mm thick) draw the shape of the

walls (in this case a whole wall for the front and the two destroyed

walls as in figure 8). with a marker pen.





Figure 11

Figure 12

Figure 13

Figure 14

Figure 15

Figure 16

Figure 17

order to bring some life into your structures such as window and

door frames, door and windows themselves.

Window frames

From a wooden slat 2x5mm cut two pieces of 2cm and two pieces

of 2,5 cm, and glue as shown in Figure 11.

Door Frame

From the same strip cut another piece of 3cm length and glue

over the hole for the door at the front of the building (Figure 11).

Doors and windows

To make the door (size as the hole for the door to your house) cut

one piece of 2.5 x4cm out of 2mm thick balsa wood and glue to the

front face of the building to look like an open door or glue it on the

floor so that it gives the impression of a demolished door.

For windows you need a piece of balsa 2x1, 5cm and glue it on

one side of the window.

When you’re done with both, take a ball pen (you will ruin your

ball pen so use an old one if handy) and draw on the balsa wood

along the wood grains to make the ‘’rack’’ that the window and the

door are comprised of (figure 12).

Creating r

tiles

On a p

cardboard

network of

squares (te

and ten c

should be

for a build lUse scissor

the cardbo

strips (following the

line), then cut each

strip into 10 pieces.

The last two strips

(or 20 pieces’’ tile’’)

additionally make a

cut to get chipped

tileas in figure 14.

Then you paste

tiles on the other two

pieces of cardboard

or thin balsa (1.5

mm), whic

previously

approximat

size as in f

and 16.

Use PVA

glue the ti

careful to g

chipped tile

the edges of

Note: start gluing

the tiles in rows from

the bottom of the

roof upwards with a

certain overlap like

in figure 17.

Construction o

fences

This section d

the construction

types of barriers

kni tted and w

fences.





Figure 18

Figure 19

Figure 20Stone fence

From clay make fiftyish pebbles of approximately 1cm size. Allow

to dry. Then, paste in two or three lines in the shape of the wall as

shown in Figure 18

Wooden fence

Cut the pieces of slats 3x3, 4x4 or 5x5cm (depending on the size of

the fence) in lengths of 2-3cm. Stick (or just paste) them in the terrain

base at equal intervals (approximately 4-5cm). Out of 2x3 or 2x5cm

slats cut several pieces of 7cm in length, and this should be enough

to cover the length of the fence in two rows, as shown in Figure 19

Woven fences

It is similar to building the wooden one, but instead of square

take something round (eg sticks or toothpicks) and cut the

pieces of 3cm in length. Thrust them into the ground at a di

of 4-5cm to each other. Then take a large paper clip and stra

them with pliers (do not have to be perfectly straight.) Whe

have completed intertwine one at a clip around the vertical

(toothpick / kebabs): one around the left eye and another to th

then back to the left side, while the top line should start fro

opposite side like figure 20

Painting

Spread a new

or otherwise p

your work area

the black spra

spray the entire

(undercoat). Sp

a well-ventilated

Let the paint dry

When dry (abo

an hour later),

large brush pa

earthen part o

base in dark b

Use the dry

technique. The

a lighter shad

repeat.

Rocky parts

road or stone

paint using the

method just in s

of gray (but in th

still hover with w

For the walls

house, first pain





21b. basecoat 21c. drybrush 21d. finished paint

22a. 5mm static grass

22b. 7mm static grass

22c. finely ground

Sponge/foliage

22d. tree

brown with a wet brush (Figure 21b - basecoat) and then drybrush light brown and

mixture of light brown and white to get the look of plaster (figure 21c).

The roof tiles should first be drybrushed brown and then a mixture of brown

adding more red with each successive layer until you end up with pure red.

At the end drybrush the details (doors, windows etc.) dark brown.

Flocking

Spread the newspaper to protect the work area. Over the would-be grassy pa

terrain put the PVA glue (with a brush). Then sprinkle the short static grass over

22a). Allow to dry for about ten minutes and then shake off the rest on the newsp

thus you can return the excess grass back in the bowl. In a few holes between th

stones on the road apply PVA glue with the smallest brush to creat a blob. Betw

fingers take the 7mm static grass to form a tuft and thrust it vertically in the PVA blo

22b). On several spots on the desired facade paste finely ground sponge like ivy us

(Figure 22c). Then paste the tree using superglue on the flat part of the field, an

few minutes go over the wood base with PVA and glue the short static grass (Fig

In the end, your finished terrain should look like figure 23.

If you have

questions regard

article or any sugg

about future

building topic

free to c

Marko v


http://www.wampforum.com/VB4/member.php?u=3295

http://www.wampforum.com/VB4/member.php?u=3295




TUTORIAL

Awesome Terrain

First is an example of a small village house with a barn (figure 1).

Here we will not explain the basing of the terrain or how to texture it

since we mastered that part earlier. To create these buildings 10 x

25cm of 4mm or 5mm thick balsa wood is needed and 10 x 25cm of

1.5mm balsa wood for making roof. There will be enough thin balsa

for all the details that go on the terrain (windows, doors, etc.).

First draw on the thicker balsa all the walls as shown in Figure 2.

and cut the necessary parts. Repeat the same process for roofing,

but on the thinner balsa (figure 2). Then, on the walls of the barn

(Parts 5 and 6) and on the upper parts of the walls 1 and 2 draw

parallel lines with a pen to press the boards about every 5mm (as

previously done on the windows and doors) to make an appearance

of wooden boards.

In this article, we’ll go through two simple examples of buildings

which you do not need much time or materials (and consequen

money). With a little care and attention these pieces of terrain

be a very interesting solution for your gaming table.

Connect the walls as in figure 3. Once the walls are in pla

the roof (made of thin balsa) and glue the roof tiles with P

Texture all parts of the building that are not wooden, paste w

doors and any other decorations you want and thus ma

building part of your new terrain complete. The only thing

is to paint and flock it (as described in the previous article

wish, you can add a fence at your own discretion.

Small village house with a barn






TUTORIA

Tower house

Next example is a tower house. All you need is a piece of

32,5 x10cm of 5mm thick balsa wood for walls and 10x15cm

of 1,5mm thick balsa wood for the roof and woodwork. As with

the first example, draw on the thicker balsa all the walls and cut it

accordingly (Figure 4.).

The walls 5, 6, 7 and 8 are supposed to be made out of wooden

beams while the other walls will have plaster on it. In order to make

the wooden walls use a pen as described in the previous example.

The wooden boards need to be horizontal. If you are not sure of the

direction of the boards, first connect the entire building (Figure 5.)

Then press in the beams.

Other models of manufacturing processes are the same as in the

previous examples, so therefore your terrain should look like:

Take a look at the notes on the figure 6!

For exercise you can make the frame of the wings of the windmill

from a 5x5mm slat of wood and glue it to one of the upper walls of

the tower.

For making these two examples you need:

• High density styrofoam 2cm thickness, 30x30cm

• Balsa wood 4mm or 5mm thickness, 10x25cm / 10x3

• Balsa wood 1,5mm thickness, 10x25mm / 10x15mm

• Card, around 25x25cm / 15x15cm

• Slate of cork 2mm thickness, 10x10cm

• Sand, 2 types of various sizes (one of them – sa

chinchillas)

• Various flocks, static grass (various length), Iceland

ground sponge, model trees

• PVA glue

• Superglue

• Clay (DAS recommended) or wooden slats for fences

Addition

There are various types of flock (Figure 8.). Some are natura

as twigs, seeds, plants or moss and even various kinds of

such as slate) and can be found in nature, while others are a

(like a sponge, static grass, fibers, etc.) and have to be boug





TUTORIAL

There is no set rule in how and to what degree to use the flock.

What one should pay attention to is the time of year (if it’s winter,

then there is not much green vegetation except evergreen, etc.),

geographic location (if making desert terrain there will be no trees,

snow or a lot of greens ...), but one should also pay attention to the

colors you use - not to mix too much various coloration and that the

colours used do not clash with one another. The following are the

examples of harmonious flocking and some of the techniques in

handmade flock and vegetation making:

Reed / bulrush

DIY sedge

Sedge is made ??in the following way: put a little supergl

head of a pin and plunge it into the sand. Then take a piece

and paint it green. Cut thin sheets out of it. Then paint the st

sedge and attach the leaves with PVA glue. When everythi

just thrust it into your terrain and put a little PVA glue to ce

DIY Lilly pads

Lilies are made of two-component modeling mass (aka g

stuff) or, if not available, one can also use DAS clay. First

discus (3-5mm diameter) and cut out one slice. Paint it g

perhaps add a flower (which is also made out of paper)

pin through the middle of the lilly pad and use the same m

attaching it to your terrain as in sedge.

Ice is most easily obtained using PVA glue. First paint yo

surface (or make it from resin or otherwise ? more about

later article). Then pour the PVA glue to make a layer abou

thick. Allow to become almost translucent and apply anot

this time a very thin layer PVA glue and let everything dry (p

overnight).





TUTORIA

Ice surface

Slate

Slate is very nice addition to your terrain. It gives a faithful replica

of the stone structure both painted and unpainted (just wash the dirt

away as it can prevent the glue from sticking to the stone). More

about this in another article.

When you are making cliffs, keep in mind that there are remnants

of the erosion at the foot of the cliff ranging from large boulders to

tiny pieces. Such attention to detail, gives a particular charm of a

terrain piece. In general, the details are what differentiates a high-

quality terrain/diorama from an average one.

Foot of the cliff

Moss

Particularly effective detail on the walls of old houses or ruin

moss. An easy way to show moss is ground sponge in various

and even brown tones. Also it serves especially well in conc

various irregularities occurred during the development of m

(such as the hole in the wall from rough cutting, sloppy paintjo

And finally there are some details left in the nature by man

as weapons, bags, impromptu fireplaces, etc.

Details





TUTORIAL

Awesome Terrain


First example is a couple of Rohan houses for the Lord of the

Rings Strategy Battle Game. Note the characteristic crossbeams and

the roof made of straw. The buildings were made out of balsa wood

while the base is high density Styrofoam with engraved stonework.

The straw is made out of fake fur. I’m afraid a plush teddy-bear got

sacrificed for the purpose of building these terrain.

Extra DetailsT

his month we’ll continue where we left off last time. Building sim

bits and pieces for your scenery that can make the differe

They are easy to make and really make your piece pop.

Next is a sphynx for the Khemri desert table fopr the Wa

Fantasy Battles game. The whole base of the terrain and th

the sphynx itself is high density styrofoam, while only the h

hand modelled out of DAS (air-drying) clay. Also the torch

made out of LEGO bricks.





TUTORIA

If you are making a ruined house, it’s always fun to leave some

broken furniture or other markings of former life. Note the former

occupant who died in his sleep. Such fun details can really add life

to your terrain pieces.

Pipings are a great way of enriching your Warhammer 40.000

table. For this terrain we used normal plastic piping for the plumbing

readily available at all D.I.Y. or home-improvement shops. The

walkways were made out of plastic mosquito nets.

Also, when doing different urban scenery, it’s always fun to play

with flock. By using regular shapes of various grass or flock types

(1), you can always create man made parks.

In this hey field there are several bits that make this piece

First, it ’s the hey. It’s made out of a normal doormat cut in the d

size. Second, the wheel of a cart (2), also a LEGO. Next it’s a

hobbit (1) hiding in the field and in the end it’s the scarecrow

made of a wooden slat and some GW Empire Militia parts with

static grass as straw.

“Agram Manor“ is a presentation piece and as such it n

to be loaded with detail. To name but a few: fire logs (2), si

lighting(3), door bell(4), a small bench (5), drain pipe (1), us

various flocks and static grass (6) etc. Also the house has

the making of which will be discussed a little later.

Here are some more examples of tabletop terrain with lo

cool bits and pieces:





TUTORIAL

Normal and stained glass windows

Glass surfaces can be copied in several

ways. The first is just glass, but it must be

very thin which makes it very fragile. Next

option is Plexiglas which is quite expensive

if you want it very thin, and it is quite difficult

to obtain and shape. The only acceptable

solution remains - foil. So, ordinary windows

can be made out of foil which is easy to find

on the blister or various cardboard b

example Bburago model cars ...). J

to the desired size and shape leavi

space on either side for the glue) a

it in place of windows. If you want

glass, paint the foil using colours o

pen.





TUTORIA

Stained glass windows can be made by printing a pattern on paper

(find the appropriate picture on the internet or paint it yourself) and

paste in place the window. This unfortunately has the disadvantage

– it is not transparent! The deficit is easily corrected by photocopying

the image on a foil for an overhead projector. Most of the photocopy

shops still hold these.

Stonework – using HD Styrofoam

In this part we discuss the stone structures, such as stone floors/

walls and types of rocky surfaces. Using real stones for the walls is

not an option because of his natural weight, so therefore we have

to use replacement materials. One of the more commonly usedmaterials (especially for the base-work on miniatures) is cork. If it is

carefully cut and cork is very similar to the texture of the stone. Also

used is the dry bark of a tree, which painted also gives quite a faithful

reproduction of stone. The problem with a bark is that it is relatively

difficult to shape and thus it’s quite dependant on its shape. This

brings us to the next material that can be used to represent stone

and rocks and is very easy to shape - the high density Styrofoam.

With careful treatment and texturing it can very accurately replicate

stone surfaces, especially on rocks (figure 1.).

figure 1.

Various forms of man made stone surfaces can also be co

high density Styrofoam. Just carefully engrave blocks of sto

the desired form by using a sharp object (ice-pick or a knife/s

blade) and then expand the pattern with a pencil. You can ge

different forms as shown in Figure 2.

figure 2.

Stone Walls

Here we describe the development of the massive stone

made out of HD Styrofoam. First imagine the shape of your w

draw it on the hard foam. Then cut out the shape of the wa

engrave the shapes of the stone blocks with a knife, then wid

grooves using a ballpoint pen (use an old one because this p

will break the pen).





TUTORIAL

If you are building a ruin run a kn

along the surfaces that have been d

and press a real stone over the whol

of the wall thus getting authentic

stone surfaces.

Coat all the surfaces with dilu

glue to protect the HD styrofoam, a

the coating dries undercoat it bla

drybrush the entire surface Codex

Fortress Grey. In some parts you

some Graveyard Earth with lighte

Desert Yellow, and on the other, ad

Green Goblin.

Furthermore over some parts of

you can glue (using PVA glue) the g

green sponge that will mimic mos

flock is quite dark lighten it by dry

light green shade).

More examples





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www.wamp-forum.com

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Powerslave

by Undave



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