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Green wet processing of new bio-based fibres to • increase their lifespan and• reduce their environmental impact
Teppies Project Brokerage Event 201911 october 2019, Brussels
Sustainable Fashion in A Circular Economy
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• French Textile Engineering institute with 2 main missions : education and research on textile advanced materials
• Its research laboratory (Gemtex):
➢100 members (30 professors,10 engineers and technicians,56 PhD students)
➢55 RDI programs & 12 patents since 2013
➢3 research groups: Human Centred Design (HCD), Mechanics Textiles Composites (MTC) and Multifonctional Textiles and Processes (MTP) + a cross-cutting axis in sustainabledevelopment
• Fields of application: clothing, aeronautics, transport, medical, wellness, sport & leisure, construction…
ENSAIT
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Sustainable development
ENSAIT – Skills of the MTP Groups
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Topic: CE-FNR-14-2020 – Innovative textiles - reinventing fashion
IA - Single stage - Deadline: 22/01/2020
Project:
• Development of bio-based textiles with high level of performance, recyclability and lowest environmental impact categories, avoiding the release of pollutants and microfibers in water during processing and use phase.
• Ensait aims to optimize wet processing of new-biosourced fibres : scouring, dyeing and finishing. The goal is to cater for appropriate functionalities required for apparels and increase the lifespanand recyclability.
• Ensait has significant experience in sustainable wet processing of all usual of fibres (natural and man-made), and more particulary on flax and polyester fibres.
Project
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Shift from a Linear economy to a more Circular economy
Linear economy Circular economy
End-of Life
Manufacture(materials andprocesses
USE
MAKE USE DISPOSE
Sustainable Fashion in A Circular Economy
Reduce use of new raw material
Re-InventFASHION
Eco-technologies/biotechnologies for a greener wet-processing of new-biosourced fibres
Reduce environmental impact of apparels(manufacture, use, recycling)
Increase LifeSpan catering for slow and more sustainable fashion –Reinvent Fashion
Reduce release of pollutants and microfibers
Upcycling while recycling
Beyond fast Fashion
Cater for appropriate functionalities while reducing impacts during use-phase (less ironing/washing)
Fast fashion
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Eco-technologies/biotechnologies for greener textile wet-processing:to reduce environmental impacts
Eco-technologies (plasma, microwaves, ozone, ultrasounds, Supercritical CO2….)
Biotechnologies
Reduced energy, water, chemical consumption, reduced release of chemicals
Use of bio-based enzymes (lower temperature wet processing)Use of functional bio-based molecules (multifunctional) combined with ecotechnology for improved durability, and reduced number of processing steps. Use of biomordants to improve wash/rub/light durability of bio-based dyes
WET PROCESSINGS : Scouring, Bleaching, dyeing, finishing
WET PROCESSING
water repellent
Fire retardant
Anti bacterial
water
energy
chemicals
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End-of LifeManufacture(materials andprocesses
USE
Increase Lifespan f (fiber quality, textile structure, wet processing)Reduce electricity, and water
consumptionand reduce chemical and microfiber release
Sustainable wet processing(plasma, enzymes, microwaves)
-appropriate durable functionalities with eco-friendly products/processes
Functionalities
-to increase lifespan
-to reduce impacts during production and use-phase
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Better extraction of bio-sourced (natural) fibers-High quality fibers
-Improved flexibility for Fashion useRecyclingSustainable end-of –life wet processingFor upcycling
Green Wet-processing of new-biosourced fibres for a Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy Using Eco-technologies/biotechnologies to reduce environmental impacts
Removal of color and finishes(ozone, microwave, Fenton)
(ultrasound, ozone, enzymes)
Washing
Drying
Ironing
ENSAIT SKILLS IN ECOTECHNIOLOGIES AND BIOTECHNOLOGIES
PLASMA : atmospheric plasma (PET)-activation and improved durability of finishing, printing
MICROWAVE(for bio-based functionalisation, eco-friendly dyeing, and upcycling through color removal)
OZONE (for improved recycling-removal of dye and finishing, and for 1-step linen cleaningand bleaching)
ENZYMES (for extraction of bio-based linen fibers, coton bioscouring, wool anti-feltinghydrophilisation of PET)
BIO-BASED FUNCTIONALISATION (Multifunctional molecules/polymers for dyeing, coating, finishing. Ex: Antibacterial, anti-UV, luminescent textiles, soil-release properties, improvedcolor fastness of natural dyes using biomordants – Multifunctional textiles
ENSAIT SKILLS in LCA OF TEXTILE PRODUCTS AND PROCESSES
Life Cycle assessments: « gate to gate », « Cradle to Grave »
Transfer to New Bio-based fibres -natural (ex: Hemp)-artificial cellulosic(ex: viscose)-synthetic (ex: BIOPET, PTT-SORONA)
PET, Linen, cotton Transfer to New Bio-based fibers (cellulosic, BIOPET…)
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Research projects :• ACTVEX, Interreg (2008/12) - LCA in the textile industry
• ECLIN, PhD Thesis with ECOTLC (2015- 2018) - Rethinking Linen Textile Design for Circular Economy
• DURATEX, Interreg V France - Wallonie-Flanders (2016 /20)- Ecofriendly water and oil repellent textiles for building and architectural applications
• ECyTWIN, Interreg (2018/22) - Eco-cycle Innovation of the Textile and Woodworking Industries
• SMDTEX, Eramus Mundus ( 2013/21) - Joint Doctorate Program about Sustainable Management and Design for Textile: 40 ph D
• OZONEFLAX-(2019-2020)- Région Nord-Picardie- Pre-treatment and bleaching of linen fabrics
ENSAIT projects in substainable development
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Partnership
ENSAIT• Green wet processing
through eco/biotechnologies
• LCA
Coordinator(Search)
TecnatoxWater toxicologyanalysis
Industrial partners(Search)
• Manufacturers of natural fibres
• Manufacturers of new bio-based polymerfibres (artificial or synthetic)
• Yarn manufacturers• Suppliers of • Biobased or eco-
friendly products for functionalisation
End-users(Search)
Research laboratory/IndustryOptimization of textile structure -processing (search)
-for increased apparel lifespan, and comfort-less release of microfibers, less ironing-reduced environmental impacts-easy recyclability
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T. AGNHAGE, A. PERWUELZ, N. BEHARY, “Eco-Innovative Coloration and Surface modification of Woven Polyester Fabric Using Bio-Based Materials and Plasma Technology”, Industrial Crops and Products, 2016, 86 : 334–41.(IF=3.18)
S.YASIN, N. BEHARY, G. ROVERO, V. KUMAR, “Statistical analysis of use-phase energy consumption of textile products”, Int J Life Cycle Assess, vol. 21, n° 12, pp. 1776-1788, 2016 ·(IF=3.17)
AGNHAGE T, PERWUELZ A, BEHARY N, “Dyeing of polyester fabric with bio-based madder dye and assessment of environmental impacts using LCA tool.” Fibers and textiles, 2016,3:4-9 ·(IF=0.2)
AGNHAGE T, ZHOU Y, GUAN J, CHEN G, PERWUELZ A, BEHARY N, NIERSTRASZ V Bioactive and multifunctional textile using plant based madder dye: Characterization of UV protection ability and antibacterial activity Fibers and Polymers, 2017, 8(11):2170–2175 (IF=1.113)
S.YASIN, CURTI M., ROVERO G., BEHARY N., A. PERWUELZ., S.GIRAUD, G.MIGLIAVACCA G.CHEN, J. GUAN, “An alternative for the end-of-life phase of flame retardant textile products: Degradation of flame retardant and preliminary settings of energy valorization by gasification”, Bioresources, 2017,12(3):5196-5211 (IF =1.334)
T. AGNHAGE, A. PERWUELZ, N. BEHARY, Towards Sustainable Rubia Tinctorum L. Dyeing of Woven Fabric: How Life Cycle Assessment Can Contribute, Journal of Cleaner Production, 2017, 141: 1221–1230.(IF=5.71)
I. BELHAJ KHALIFA, N. LADHARI, N. BEHARY, C. CAMPAGNE, “Crosslinking of sericin on air atmospheric plasma treated polyester fabric,”, J. Text. I., 2017, 108 (5) (IF=1.007)
S.YASIN, BEHARY N., A. PERWUELZ., J. GUAN, Life cycle assessment of flame retardant cotton textiles with optimized end-of-life phase, Journal of Cleaner Production, 2017, 172, DOI 10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.198.(IF=5.71)
Ajinkya Powar1, 2, 3, 4, Anne Perwuelz1, Nemeshwaree Behary1, Levinh Hoang5, Aussenac Thierry5
COLOR STRIPPING OF THE REACTIVE DYED FABRIC BY CONVENTIONAL AND OZONE ASSISTED PROCESS-A COMPARATIVE STUDY, IOA World Congress & Exhibition, Nice, France-20-25 October 2019
Amira Belhaj Rhouma1, 2, Anne Perwuelz 1, Nemeshwaree Behary1, Xavier Legrand1, Levinh Hoang 2, Thierry Aussenac 2, Comparison of conventional bleaching treatments and ozone bleaching treatment of linen fabrics for clothing and furniture applications, IOA World Congress & Exhibition, Nice, France-20-25 October 2019
WOOL ENZYMATIC AND CHEMICAL SHRINK-PROOFING TREATMENTS AND COMPARISON OF ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS USING LCA ANALYSIS, submitted
Mercerizing of cotton for the improvement of the environmental impacts of shirts, June 2013Melliand Textilberichte 94(2):116-118
V. TAKKE, N. BEHARY, A. PERWUELZ, C. CAMPAGNE, “Studies on the atmospheric air–plasma treatment of PET (polyethylene terephtalate) woven fabrics: Effect of process parameters and of aging”. Journal of Applied Polymer Science vol. 114 issue 1, 5 October 2009. p. 348 – 357
A. KERKENI, D .GUPTA, A. PERWUELZ, N. BEHARY, “Chemical grafting of curcumin at polyethylene terephthalate woven fabric surface using a prior surface activation with ultraviolet excimer lamp”. Journal of Applied Polymer Science vol. 120 issue 3, 5 May 2011. p. 1583-1590
V. TAKKE, N. BEHARY, A. PERWUELZ, C. CAMPAGNE, “Surface and adhesion properties of poly(ethylene glycol) on polyester(polyethylene terephthalate) fabric surface: Effect of air-atmospheric plasma treatment “. Journal of Applied Polymer Science vol. 122 issue 4, 15 November 2011. p. 2621-2629
A.KERKENI, N.BEHARY A. PERWUELZ , D. GUPTA, “Dyeing of PET woven fabric with Curcumin: Effect of dye concentrations and surface pre-activation using Air-atmospheric plasma and UV excimer treatment, Coloration Technology vol. 128, N° 3 , 2012. p. 223-229
A.KERKENI, N. BEHARY, P.DHULSTER , N.E.CHIHIB, A.PERWUELZ, “Study on the Effect of Plasma Treatment of Woven Polyester Fabrics with Respect to Nisin Adsorption and Antibacterial Activity”, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Special Issue: Polymers for Biomedical Applications, Vol. 129, Issue 2, 2013; 866–873.
N. BEHARY, A. KERKENI, A.PERWUELZ, N.E.CHIHIB , P.DHULSTER, “Bioactivation of PETwoven fabrics using alginate biopolymer and the bacteriocin nisin”, Textile Research Journal, July,2, 2013.
V. PASQUET, A. PERWUELZ, N. BEHARY, J. ISAAD, “Vanillin, a potential carrier for low temperature dyeing of polyester fabrics”, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 43, March 2013, 20–26
V. PASQUET, A. PERWUELZ, N. BEHARY, “Environmental Impacts of Chemical/Ecotechnological /Biotechnological hydrophilisation of Polyester fabrics”, Journal of Cleaner Production, Volume 65, 15 February 2014, p. 551–560 (IF=5.7)
S. OTERO CAMAÑO, N. BEHARY, P. VROMAN, C.CAMPAGNE, “Comparison of Bio and Eco technologies with chemical methods for pre-treatment of flax fibers: impact on fiber properties, Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics , Volume 9, 4, December 2014. (IF=0.99)
S. YASIN, N. BEHARY, S. GIRAUD, A. PERWUELZ. “In situ degradation of organophosphorus flame retardant on cellulosic fabric using advanced oxidation process: a study on degradation and characterization”, Polymer Degradation and Stability, 2016, 126:1–8 (IF=3.57)
RESEARCH ON ECOTECHNOLOGIES/BIOTECHNOLOGIES
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Thank you for your attention
N. Massika Behary, Professor - [email protected] Perwuelz, Professor - [email protected] Doumeng, Project manager – [email protected]
Contacts
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