p pc booklet
TRANSCRIPT
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and Tanya Visser
Build a concrete bench
Make your own pavers
Build a concrete pond
Hypertufo
Installing cobbled edging
Lay pebble paving
Building floating steps
Grouted outdoor paving
Creative Cementfor your
Garden DIYswith
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A secluded spot, out of direct sunlight, is the
perfect place for a garden bench. A well-
placed bench invites you to sit and admire
your garden and it also acts as a focal point.
What you need:Shutterboard (22 mm thick) to build the moulds, as
follows:Seat (5 pieces)
Base: 1220 x 400 mm (x 1),
Long sides: 1220 x 90 mm (x 2)
Short sides: 440 x 90 mm (x 2)
Legs (8 pieces)
Wide sides: 200 x 400 mm (x 4),
Narrow sides: 300 x 400 mm (x 4)
wood screws ( 60)
3 x 3-m quadrants
35 mm flat head wire nails ( 30)
1 bag PPC cement
3 bags river sand
2 bags 19 mm crushed stone
Build aconcrete bench
1 m BRC mesh
2.8mm gauge
(190 x 210 mm)
80 grit
sandpaper
Toolsmitre box
float, wood or
plastic
drill
saw
paintbrush
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Step 1. Build the boxes that will form the
moulds. Start with the seat, joining the sides and
the base by first drilling holes and then screw-
ing them together. Make two identical boxes for
the legs as above. The boxes for the legs dont
have a base; you should place them on a flat
board to fill them.Step 2. The lengths of quadrant must be sawn
to size so that they can be used to line all the
inside corners of the three boxes. Cut the ends
of the quadrant for the seat at a 45 angle, using
the mitre box. Now fit these pieces into the
corners of the boxes (curved side outwards)
and nail them in place. This completes the
moulds. Now cut the BRC mesh to size you
need a layer for the seat and a piece for each of
the legs.
Step 3. Mix the cement, using 1 part cement, 1
part stone and 1 part river sand (this 1:1:1 ratio
ensures strength). Add enough water to get themix to a yoghurt-like consistency. You need
the mixture to be fairly sloppy because you will
be pouring the concrete into the moulds.
Step 4. For the seat: fill the box three quarters
with concrete, put down the layer of BRC mesh,
then fill the remainder of the box with concrete.
Use the float to agitate the mixture so that thereare no air pockets left in the concrete. For the
legs: make sure the boxes are standing on a
level piece of board then place the BRC mesh
inside them and fill them with concrete.
Step 5. Wait! The concrete must cure for 14
days. Thereafter unscrew the boxes to reveal
your handiwork. Any sharp bits and rough
places can be gently sanded smooth with
sandpaper. Brush off the resulting powder with a
dry paintbrush. (Keep the moulds they can be
reused.)
Step 6. Place the legs in position and lower the
seat onto them, and your bench is ready to use.
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This is a great way to get young children to
go out and play in the garden. Creating this
permanent hopscotch court with custom-made pavers was quick, easy and a lot of fun.
Of course, you dont have to stop at hop-
scotch, they can also be used anywhere else
you would use bought pavers.
What you needMoulds round, square or both. (We made all the
pavers at one time, and used 5 round and 6 square
moulds)
1 bag PPC cement
3 bags river sand
3 bags small stone (no larger than 13 mm in size)
cooking oiloxide 500 g is enough for 2 pavers. This is not
essential, but means you can vary the colour of the
pavers
Make your ownpavers
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Toolsbucket trowelspirit level spade
plastic sheet rubber mallet
Numbers: This is where your children
can get involved. Create the numbers,
using anything appropriate lyingaround the house, including shells,
stones, glass beads, old coins, broken
tiles and mosaic tiles. Form the numbers
on wax paper, using a silicon-based
glue. Be generous with the glue on the
bases of the bits and pieces because it
stops the concrete from covering thenumbers. NB: Make sure the numbers
are formed BACKWARDS on the paper so
that they will be the correct way
around when the pavers are removed
from the moulds.
Step 1. Coat the inside of each mould
generously with cooking oil. This
makes the concrete easy to unmould
when dry. Place the moulds on a flat
surface and put the numbers, still
attached to the paper and with the
paper side down, in the moulds.Step 2. Mix the cement, sand and
stone together in this ratio: 1 part
cement to 2 parts river sand to 3 parts
stone. Add enough water to form a
workable concrete mixture. For col-
oured pavers divide the concrete and
mix in the oxide/s (if you are colouringthem all in a single colour then add the
oxide to the cement powder before
adding water).
Step 3. Fill each mould and use a
trowel to smooth the concrete. Cover
the moulds with plastic and leave for 24
hours before turning out. Remove thewax paper and the silicon to reveal the
numbers. For the first three days ensure
the pavers remain wet so they do not
crack, thereafter ensure that they are
handled carefully until fully cured,
which will take about two weeks.Step 4. The moulds can be reused;
wash them with dishwashing liquid and
dry them before storing.
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Water features are one of the most sought-
after of landscaping elements, not least
because they lend such a calming atmosphere
to a garden. This in-ground pond is perfect
it is simple to build and can take any shape
you like.
What you need:2 bags PPC cement
20 bags river sand
2 kg powdered waterproofing agent
15 m x 4mm galvanised wire
1.5 m thinner wire for tying galvanised wire
Toolstrowel or float
wire cutters
pliers
Build aconcrete pond
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Step 1. After choosing where to site the pond, diga hole to these dimensions: 1500mm long x 700 mm
wide x 500 mm deep.
Step 2. Mix 5 parts of river sand with 1 part cement,
add the waterproofing agent and mix well. Add
water, bit by bit, until the mixture reaches a stiff
porridge-like consistency. It should be able to form
a ball and hold together.Step 3. Start at the base of the hole and, using a
trowel, pack the concrete mixture into the sand to a
thickness of 50 mm. Move from one end to the other
and up the sides. Make sure the concrete is packed
tight to prevent air pockets and make it as smooth
as possible. This should take about 3 hours to
complete.Step 4. Using strips
of galvanised wire
tied together with the
thinner wire, create a
basket-shaped wire
form to reinforce the
pond. Put the form in
the hole and, if
necessary, tack to
the cement base
using 10 mm long U-
shaped nails.
Step 5. Mix a second batch of concrete and layanother 50 mm layer over the entire pond, making
sure the wire reinforcing is covered completely.
Step 6. Leave the pond to cure for at least a week.
From time to time use water to dampen the con-
crete; this will reduce cracking as it cures or simply
fill the pond with water once the concrete has
hardened enough.Step 7. Once the concrete is cured place a layer of
slate (or pavers) around the edge, interspersed with
pebbles. Water loving plants in and around the pond
will complete the look, and a bubbling pump will
help circulate and aerate the water.
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Hypertufa
Hypertufa, which was invented for use inalpine gardens, is a manufactured substitutefor tufa the porous rock that forms aroundmineral water springs. Alpine gardenerstraditionally used antique animal water troughsas planters, but there was obviously a limitedsupply of these. Containers made withhypertufa are more porous and much lighterthan the water troughs, so they are idealalternatives. Hypertufa planters in the originaltrough shape are still popular, however, it is
possible to use it to make many shapes.
What you need:PPC cement
Peat (the finer the better)
Plastic basin and loose plastic
Step 1. Mix 1 part cement to 2 parts peatand add water until the mixture can hold its
shape.
Step 2. Line the basin with the plastic it
does not have to be smooth as the creases
give the pots surface extra texture. Pack a
layer of the cement mixture into the basin,
covering the bottom and sides to a depth of2 to 3 cm.
Step 3. Make a drainage hole in the centre
of the base. Leave to dry, at least overnight,
then remove the pot from the basin.
Add more character: After youve placed
the plastic inside the mould (and before youpack in the cement) line the sides with some
dried sphagnum moss.
You will find peat and dried sphagnum moss at garden centres.
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It is attention to detail that
makes a good garden great, and
well-laid edging is certainly a
prerequisite. Cobbles are easy
to install and come in a variety
of colours use them to edge a
pathway or a bed and take it
from good to great.
Installingcobbled
edging
What you need5 kg PPC cement
1 bag river sand
Cobbles
Toolsspade
trowel
rubber mallet
Step 1. Prepare the area: remove
any grass in a strip slightly wider that
the width of the cobbles, then dig a
small furrow, making its depth a little
more than the height of the cobbles.
Step 2. Mix 4 parts river sand to 1
part cement and add enough waterto form a mixture with the consist-
ency of thick whipped cream.
Step 3. Using a trowel, place a layer
of the mortar along the base of the
furrow. Place your first cobble on
the mortar and tap it gently with the
mallet to seat it in the mixture. Makesure that it does not stick out above
the adjoining lawn (especially when
the lawn is at its ideal height). Slide
the next cobble flush against the
first one so that there is no gap
between them. After laying 4 or 5
cobbles test their levels with the
spirit level and tap them into place
with the mallet where necessary.
Proceed in this manner until all the
cobbles are in place.
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Different textures in a garden make it more
interesting. Pebble paving is an intriguing way
to incorporate a new texture into the hard
landscaping there are so many different
colours and sizes of pebbles available that theskys the limit.
What you needPPC cement
Pebbles (round or egg
shaped) you will need 40 kg
for every square metre to
be covered
River sand
Toolsplastic float or wood
blockrubber gloves
rubber mallet
trowel and bucket
Lay pebblepaving
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Step 1. The area to be paved must be enclosed by a
border. If you are not laying the pebbles within anexisting frame then prepare the border first cobbles
and pavers are good options. Next, prepare the area
to be pebble-paved by digging out the soil to a depth
of 50 mm and then making sure the new surface is
level.
Step 2. Mix 4 parts sand to 1 part cement and addenough water to make a dryish mixture. Pour it into
the dug out area, filling it almost to the top. Level and
compact it with a float or block of wood. If you intend
placing the pebbles in a particular pattern then draw
or trace the pattern into the mortar at this point.
Step 3. Start putting the pebbles in place, working
from the centre of the design outwards, and ensuringeach pebble is embedded in the mortar. When the
area is filled with the pebbles ensure they are level
by placing a plank across them and tapping it with a
rubber mallet.
Step 4. For the grouting make a slurry of cement and
water (it should be the consistency of runny
yoghurt). Pour it over the pebbles so that it fills all thespaces between them and then leave it to set for one
hour. (If the mixture has splashed onto the surround-
ing pavers or cobbles then clean it off immediately.)
Step 5. Use a hose with very fine spray to wash the
cement off the pebbles, taking care not to wash the
mix out from between them. Use a sponge to clean
left over cement off the pebbles and dab up the
excess moisture.
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A front entrance should be the most welcom-
ing part of a garden and floating stepsleading up to the front door certainly lend
maximum appeal. Make sure the size of the
steps is in scale with the size of the door a
double door requires wide rectangles that
make a bold statement.
What you need (per step)Shutterboard (22 mm thick), 5 pieces, as follows:
1800 mm x 100 mm (x 2)
750 mm x 100 mm (x 2)
800 mm x 100 mm (x 1) brace
nails
2 bags PPC cement
4 bags river sand
4 bags stone (19 mm crushed)
1 bag plaster sand
Buildingfloating steps
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Toolsplastic float
corner trowel
Step 1. Floating steps should
be made in situ, especially
when they are long rectan-
gles. Start by compacting and
levelling the area.
Step 2. Make a box mould
using the shutterboard.
Ensure it is perfectly straight
and measure the inside to
make sure the size is correctfor the finished step. Nail the
brace in position across the
top of the box in the centre.
This stops the mould bulging
when the concrete is poured
in.
Step 3. Mix together 4 partsstone, 4 parts sand and 2
parts cement. Add water until
the mixture reaches a pouring
consistency. Pour it into the
mould and pack it down using
the float. Make sure that the
corners are filled. As youwork the cement will rise to
the top and form a smooth
layer.
Step 4. Tap the edges of the
box with a rubber mallet to
remove any air pockets.Leave to cure for at least a
week (preferably longer)
before removing the mould.
Step 5. Plaster the step using
3 parts plaster sand and 1 part
cement mixed with water. Use
a float to make a smooth 10mm layer on the top and sides
of the step. Use a corner
trowel dipped in water to
neaten the edges. When the
plaster finish is nearly dry,
smooth it over using a float in
circular motions. Seal with aconcrete sealer if necessary.
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Using cement to grout the pavers for an
outdoor entertainment area makes it long
lasting and gives it that finishing touch we
all strive for.
What you need5 kg PPC cement
river sand for base
1 bag plaster sand
Sandstone pavers
Toolstrowel
rubber mallet
spirit level
spacer cut from off-cuts of
woodstraight edge (2.2 m)
squeegee
sponge
Groutedoutdoor paving
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Step 1. Prepare the area for the
pavers by removing grass andplants, then put down a layer of
river sand, compact it and level it.
Step 2. If there is no straight
edge from which you can work
then set up a builders line. Next,
decide how big the gaps be-
tween the pavers must be and
cut a piece of wood to this size
to use as a spacer. Start putting
down the pavers, checking their
levels as you work, and using the mallet to tap them
down when necessary. Use the straight edge to
ensure each row is straight before starting the next row.Step 3. For the grouting use 3 parts plaster sand to
1 part cement and enough water to form a mixture
that is the consistency of runny yoghurt. Use a
trowel to pack the mixture into the gaps and use a
squeegee to smooth it over. Do a maximum of 4
linear metres at a time then use a trowel to remove
the excess grouting and use a sponge and water toclean off the pavers, otherwise they may be
permanently stained. Once completed, leave for 48
hours to dry. If it is very hot during this time then
wet the grouting occasionally, using a hose with a
fine spray, to help prevent cracks forming.
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For more advice on cement
please ask your PPC Cement
stockist or call the PPC
toll-free help line
0800 023 470 (SA only)
Visit the website on
www.ppc.co.za
While all information in this brochure
is supplied in good faith, no
responsibility can be accepted by PPC
or the stockist for claims arising from
its use