Over the rainbow bracelet

Work a cloud of teardrops across the top of a kumihimo braid — they’ll appear to float between two other braids when discreetly joined on the back.

designed by Adrienne Gaskell

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©2016 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.

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80 seed beads

6 x 4 mm teardrop beads

6 mm CzechMatestwo-hole lentil beads

Difficulty rating

Materialshematite bracelet 7 in. (18 cm)• 96 6 x 4 mm teardrop beads, top drilled (Czech, jet AB)• 35 6 mm CzechMates two-hole lentil beads (silver pearl)• 26 g 80 seed beads (Toho 81, metallic hematite)• 1 g 110 seed beads (Toho 81, metallic hematite)• 1 1-in. (2.5 cm) 3-strand magnetic clasp (www.adriennegaskell.com)• 1 10 mm (or larger) split ring• S-Lon nylon cord (Tex 210, black)• Fray Check• Fireline, 6 or 8 lb. test• beading needles, #12• kumihimo disk with 8 plastic bobbins and counterweight; or marudai with 8 tama and counterweight• crimping pliers• 2 Bead Stoppers• hemostat• cord burner • Two-part epoxy and toothpick• vise

silver bracelet colors• 6 x 4 mm teardrop beads, top drilled (Czech, crystal AB)• 6 mm CzechMates two-hole lentil beads (silver pearl)• 80 seed beads (Toho 711, nickel- plated silver)• 110 seed beads (Toho 53, gray)

teal bracelet colors• 6 x 4 mm teardrop beads, top drilled (Czech, crystal AB)• 6 mm CzechMates two-hole lentil beads (silver pearl)• 80 seed beads (Toho 995, aqua gold-lined rainbow)• 110 seed beads (Toho 995, aqua gold-lined rainbow)

Basic techniques• overhand knot• square knot• ending thread

Setup for center braid1 Cut four cords to 6 ft. (1.8 m) each, and set up your marudai or disk for an eight-cord kongoh gumi.

NOTE Trimming and coating the ends of the cords with Fray Check makes it possible to string the beads directly onto the cord, rather than using a Big Eye needle, which might be difficult to pass through the lentil beads and teardrops.

2 String each cord with the beads listed in the Bead & cord layout: Center braid. These instructions result in a 7-in. (18 cm) finished bracelet, including a 1-in. (2.5 cm) clasp. Note that each cord should have a total of 42 beads. For a larger or smaller bracelet, please see “Bracelet sizing,” below, which will have you adjust the number of 80s in brackets [ ] at the start and end of each cord. If you are adjusting the fin-ished size, all cords should still have the same number of beads. After stringing each cord, wind the end of the cord around a bobbin or tama.

Center braid1 Work a kongoh gumi with just the cords (no beads) for 1⁄2 in. (1.3 cm). Make sure that you end with all the cords in their original positions, as in the Bead & cord layout: Center braid.2 Continue using 2-drop Kongoh, dropping one bead on each cord with each pair of cord movements.

NOTE Make sure that each bead stays in position under its crossing cord; the teardrops can be a chal-lenge. Also, if you notice a twist in your braid (photo a), no worries.

Cord 1:• [Nine 80s]• Two teardrops, one lentil, one 80.

String this pattern a total of six times.• [Nine 80s]Cords 2 and 3:• [Nine 80s]• One teardrop, two 80s• Two teardrops, two 80s. String this

pattern a total of five times.• One teardrop• [Nine 80s]Cord 4:• [Nine 80s]• Two 80s, two teardrops. String this

pattern a total of six times.• [Nine 80s]Cord 5:• [Nine 80s]• Two 80s, two teardrops• One lentil, one 80, two teardrops.

String this pattern a total of five times.• [Nine 80s]Cords 6 and 7:• [Nine 80s]• One 80, two teardrops• Two 80s, two teardrops. String this

pattern a total of five times.• One 80• [Nine 80s]Cord 8: • [Nine 80s]• Two teardrops, two 80s. String this

pattern a total of six times.• [Nine 80s]

Bead & cord layout: Center braid

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a

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dCenter braid

Side braid

It will straighten out when attached to the side braids.

3 When all the beads have been incorporated into the braid, work 1⁄2 in. (1.3 cm) with just the cords.4 Lift the braid from the marudai or disk. Finish the braid by binding and cutting or sealing the end of the braid with a cord burner. Set the center braid aside.

Side braidsTo save time, you’ll string the beads for both side braids on the same cords. You’ll create the first side braid, work a section of unbeaded braid, and then create the second side braid. The side braids will be separated later.

1 Set up the kumihimo disk or marudai as in “Setup for center braid,” but start with four cords cut to 7 ft. (2.1 m), and string each cord with the beads listed in Bead & cord layout: Side braids.

a

Again, these instructions are for a 7-in. (18 cm) bracelet. If you opted for a larger or smaller bracelet, return to “Bracelet sizing,” below, to see how to adjust the number of 80s. 2 For cords 3 and 7, string the same pattern again after each Bead Stopper; these beads will be for the second side braid. After stringing each cord, wind the cord around a bobbin or tama up to the Bead Stopper, adjusting the position of the Bead Stopper to leave enough working cord below the disk or mirror. Keep the beads for the first side braid free of the bobbin or tama.3 Work a kongoh gumi with just the cords (no beads) for 1⁄2 in. (1.3 cm). Make sure that you end with all the cords in their original positions, as in the Bead & cord layout: Side braids.4 Continue using 2-drop Kongoh, dropping one bead on each cord with each movement until you’ve used all the beads before the Bead Stoppers

on cords 3 and 7. Work three more steps, each time dropping one 80 per cord. This adds six more seed beads (one more seed bead each from cords 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, and 8).5 Work 1 in. (2.5 cm) with just the cords. This unbeaded section will separate the first and second side braids.6 For cords 3 and 7, remove the Bead Stoppers, unwind the bobbins, slide the remaining beads up toward the marudai or disk, and rewind the cords.7 Work as in step 4 to create the sec-ond side braid. End by working 1⁄2 in. (1.3 cm) with just the cords.8 Using crimping pliers, grasp the cords at the point of braiding. With your other hand, remove the counterweight, and bring the braid down so the bobbins are resting on your work surface. Still holding the braid with the pliers, use a thread burner to burn off the excess cord (photo b).NOTE The metal jaws of the pliers act as a heat sink, keeping the heat

Cords 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 8: 8 in. (20 cm) of 80s. Don’t worry about the exact number of beads; stringing this many 80s will give you enough extras to make two side braids up to 9 in. (23 cm) long. You will discard any extras later. Until then, wind the end of the cord around a bobbin or tama.

Cord 3: • [Seven 80s]• One 80• One lentil, three 80s. String

this pattern a total of six times.

• [Seven 80s]• Attach a Bead Stopper after

the beads about halfway down the cord (photo, right).

Cord 7: • [Seven 80s]• Three 80s, one lentil. String

this pattern a total of six times.

• One 80• [Seven 80s]• Attach a Bead Stopper after

the beads about halfway down the cord.

Bead & cord layout: Side braids

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b

c

dCenter braid

Side braid

Centerbraid

Side braid

Side braid

6 mm CzechMates two-hole lentil bead,side view

bottom view

110 seed bead

6 mm CzechMates two-hole lentil bead,side view

bottom view

110 seed bead

6 mm CzechMates two-hole lentil bead,side view

bottom view

110 seed bead

away from the braid.

Keep burning the cords to melt and seal the end of the braid.9 Locate the center of the 1-in. (2.5 cm) unbeaded section between the two side braids. Clamp a hemostat just to one side of the center point. Use crimping pliers to grasp the braid to the other side of the center point. Use the thread burner to separate the braids between the hemostat and pliers (photo c), melting and sealing the ends as before.10 Melt and seal the remaining end of the first side braid below the knots. Do the same for both ends of the center braid. All six braid ends should now have neatly sealed ends.

Join1 Center a beading needle on 4 ft. (1.2 m) of Fireline so you are working with doubled thread. Sew through one of the unbeaded ends of the center braid about 1⁄4 in. (6 mm) before the beads, leaving 3-in. (7.6 cm) tails. Tie together the working thread and tails with an overhand knot, and then tie together the two tails with a square knot.2 Sew up through the inside of the braid to the point just before the teardrops, and exit the underside of the braid.

NOTE You may need to exit and re-enter the braid a few times before reaching this point; just make sure your thread remains hidden inside the braid.

3 Lay one of the side braids next to the center braid, positioning the lentils on the center braid between the lentils on the side braid (figure 1). 4 Sew through the open hole of the first lentil on the side braid, pick up an 110 seed bead, and sew through the open hole of the first lentil on the center braid (figure 1, a–b). Pick up an 110, and sew through the open hole of the second lentil on the side braid (b–c).

Continue in this manner until you exit the last lentil on the side braid (c–d).

NOTE When attaching the side braids, the center braid lentils will rotate and the holes will be stacked vertically, so figures 1 and 2 show only the open (lower) hole of each center braid lentil.

5 Lay the other side braid next to the center braid, positioning the lentils as before. Turn, and sew through the open hole of the first lentil on the new braid. Join this side braid as you did the first (figure 2). NOTE You will be sewing through the same holes of the lentils on the

b c

figure 1

figure 2

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BRACELET LENGTH

Center braid cords Side braid cords

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 7, 8 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 8 3 & 7

# of 80 beads before and after pattern beads

Total length of 80 beads

# of 80 beads before and after pattern beads

6.5 in. (16.5 cm) [7] 8 in. (20 cm) [5]

7 in. (17.8 cm) [9] 8 in. (20 cm) [7]

7.5 in. (19 cm) [11] 8 in. (20 cm) [9]

8 in. (20.3 cm) [13] 8 in. (20 cm) [11]

8.5 in.(21.6 cm) [15] 8 in. (20 cm) [13]

9 in. (22.9 cm) [17] 8 in. (20 cm) [15]

center braid as you did when join-ing the first side braid.

Once all the lentils have been joined, secure the end lentils by sewing through the first and last lentils again. Insert the needle into the center braid, and work toward the unbeaded end inside the braid. Exit next to the starting knot in the unbeaded end. Cut off the needle, and tie a couple of square knots with the working thread and tail. Trim the threads close to the braid, being careful not to cut the knots; these will be further secured once the clasp is attached.

Finishing1 Check that the unbeaded end of each braid fits into the appropriate openings on the clasp so that the beads butt up against the clasp. If any of the ends are too long, use the thread burner to trim.2 Place half the clasp in a vise so that the three openings are pointing up.3 Finish the bracelet with two-part epoxy and a magnetic clasp, keeping the following in mind:• Apply two-part epoxy all the way up to the beads but do not get it on or in the beads.• Insert the center braid into the center opening first, and then insert the side braids into the side openings. When all three braids are in position, hold in place while pushing the braids down into the clasp for several minutes.• Leave the clasp upright for one hour before gluing the other ends of the braids into the other half of the clasp.4 Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours before wearing. w

Bracelet sizingFor a 7-in. (18 cm) finished bracelet, including a 1-in. (2.5 cm) clasp, follow the instructions as written. Need a different size? Select the desired length below, substituting the number of 80s in brackets [ ]. When you string the beads on the cords, string this number of 80s wherever you see brackets [ ] in the instructions. Measurements are approximate, and results can vary depending on individual braid tension and bead manufactuer. The calcula-tions are based on Japanese seed beads (Toho brand).

The underside of the bracelet shows how the braids are joined, with each side braid being attached to the center braid through the bottom hole of the two-hole lentil.