THEWALL STREET JOURNAL. * * * * Saturday/Sunday, January 11 - 12, 2020 | D1

DINER REDUXElite chefs are opening luncheonettes—and swapping foie gras for flapjacks D9

DROP DEADHow the prospect of 100% tariffs on

French wines is alarming the industry D8

CLEARLY DIVISIVEGlass-door refrigerators:chic or far too revealing? D7

Day 1: Friday6 p.m. Arrive in Palm Springs. Ifyou’ve come by air, pick up a rentalcar at the airport; the city is smalland ride-shares are available, butyou’ll appreciate the convenience.

Palm Springs offers an abundanceof design-minded hotels. Among thenewest is the 11-room Dive, named fora neon sign of a swimmer that theowners stumbled upon last year whiletransforming the western-themedmotel into a quirky boutique property(from $275 a night, 1586 E Palm Can-yon Dr., divepalmsprings.com). A clas-sic alternative, the Colony Palmstreats you to suzani fabric head-boards, marble vanities and a largepool surrounded by fluttering umbrel-las (from $160 a night, 572 N. IndianCanyon Dr., colonypalmshotel.com).

7:30 p.m. For dinner, drive to the mid-century Holiday House hotel, de-signed by Herbert W. Burns. It wasrenovated in 2017, and every Fridaynight chef Gabriel Woo hosts a friedchicken feast (it’s crucial to call aheadto reserve a spot). The menu changesslightly from week to week but in-cludes a welcome cocktail and plat-

ters of moist, golden-crusted chickenserved at communal tables ($55 perperson, 200 W Arenas Rd., holiday-houseps.com).

9:30 p.m. If you have an ounce of ap-petite left—including for socializing—head to the Parker Palm Springs.Hand the car keys to the valet andask for directions to Counter Refor-mation. You’ll never find the en-trance, tucked among the hedges inthe back, on your own. Belly up to thezinc bar and order a glass of winefrom the small but global selection.The truly gluttonous can pair it withJamón Ibérico pan con tomate. After-ward, stroll the 13-acre hotel grounds.Shrubbery acts as architecture here,framing fountains, sculptures and firepits. Relax in a hammock strung be-tween towering palms before headingback to your hotel (4200 E Palm Can-yon Dr., parkerpalmsprings.com).

Day 2: Saturday7:30 a.m. Grab a water bottle, sun-screen, some layers and drive justsouth of the city to Indian Canyons.The ancestral lands of the Agua Cali-

PleaseturntopageD4

BY SARA CLEMENCE

THE AVERAGEage is de-ceased,” nov-elist SidneySheldon said

of Palm Springs, Calif.,two decades ago. Backthen, the city’s renais-sance had only just begun.Settled by the Agua Cali-ente Band of Cahuilla Indi-ans and rendered a resorttown by the Southern Pa-cific Railroad, PalmSprings blossomed in themiddle of the 20th cen-tury. Starting in the 1940s,Hollywood celebritiesflocked there to enjoy theweather—and to heed stu-dio contracts stipulatingthey travel no more thantwo hours from Los Ange-les. In Palm Springs, Lib-erace and Elvis Presleywere unlikely neighbors,and Marilyn Monroe wasdiscovered at a local rac-quet club. Inspired by thedesert’s drama, architects

such as Richard Neutra,William Cody and AlbertFrey designed hundreds ofstark modernist buildings,from banks to gas stationsto celebrity estates.

Thank sheer neglectfor the buildings’ sur-vival. Tastes changed,money migrated, and fordecades Palm Springswas a retiree backwater.

More recently, the townhas become an oasis ofcreative energy, inspiredby midcentury style butnot trapped by it. Youcan just as easily find anexceptional vintage cloth-ing store as a trendset-ting boutique. Barry Ma-nilow still has a homehere, as does LeonardoDiCaprio. Winter is peakseason, with daytimetemperatures that lingerin the 60s and 70s and astring of major events.The Palm Springs Inter-national Film Festival fin-ishes up on Jan. 13; inFebruary comes Modern-ism Week and the Tourde Palm Springs, followedby the BNP Paribas Open,then Coachella ValleyMusic & Arts Festival andthe Stagecoach CountryMusic Festival. Pick al-most any weekend foryour escape: It’s almostguaranteed to be sunny.

OFF DUTYGreatNecks?

Why bow-tiewearers are anexclusive club

D2

DorkyBut SlickThe split-

personality ofSubaru’s newOutback XT D10

FASHION | FOOD | DESIGN | TRAVEL | GEAR

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READY FOR DESERT? Clockwise from top left: Cheeky’s, a popular brunch spot; Taib Lotfi at Soukie Modern, a Moroccan home décor store; the cactus garden at Sunnylands; the Shops at ThirteenForty Five, a fixture in the Uptown Design District that occupies a 1955 real estate and insurance office, built by modernist architect E. Stewart Williams.

The Balm ofPalm SpringsWith mild temperatures and boozybrunches, this California desert towneasily takes the wince out of winter.

Here’s how to maximize a longweekend—poolside cat naps and all

TAKE MONDAY OFF

A REAL KICK The spicyBloody Mary at Cheeky’sarrives in a glass boot.

SWEAT-SOAKED SNAZZINESSIn which we question the fitness ofhigh-fashion workout gear D3

Inside

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THEWALL STREET JOURNAL. * * * * Saturday/Sunday, January 11 - 12, 2020 | D7

Could You See Your Way Clear to aGlass-Door Refrigerator?

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A LACK OF CLOSURE Glass-door refrigerators—like this au courant example in a New York kitchen designed by architectMartin Sosa—reveal both your diet and your styling skills when it comes to Tupperware and pickle jars.

IN THE steady marchto emulate pro-chefkitchens—see Viking

stoves and magnetic-stripknife holders—glass-doorfridges seem to be the latestfootfall. “They engage thesenses and show the ownertruly loves food, cooking andentertaining,” said Chicagodecorator Andrea Goldman ofthe peek-a-boo appliance. “Ifind them inviting.”

“They have a magnetic ap-peal,” agreed Andrew Shead,marketing manager at TrueResidential, an appliancemanufacturer based in St.Louis, Mo. Its 30-inch glass-door column refrigerator,launched in 2017, now ac-counts for 58% of the brand’ssales. Kitchen designers notethat the interior glow fromsuch fridges brightens a darkspace and, much like a win-dow, visually expands aroom’s footprint. Eco-con-scious advocates argue thatpeople who buy into thetrend can save energy bytaking grocery inventorywithout opening the door.

In the West Village homeof cooking-school founder Al-ison Cayne, Los Angeles ar-chitect Martin Sosa punctu-ated the open concept spacewith a Sub-Zero glass-pan-eled refrigerator. Ms. Cayne,who regularly stocks thefridge for her five teenagers,relishes how it breaks up vi-sual monotony. “It softensthe otherwise monochro-matic room with color andtexture,” she said. “It’s thesweet spot where utilitymeets homey.”

YES“TRUST ME, no onewants to see yourhalf-eaten box of

pizza rolls,” said bicoastal in-terior designer Kevin Isbell,summing up the main objec-tion to glass-front refrigera-tors. We welcome transpar-ency in political fundraising,but when it comes to fridgedoors, solidity is salutary.

Ubiquitous in 1980s NewYork lofts, where commercialrefrigerators fed a postmod-ern industrial aesthetic, clearpanels lost favor around 2000,and many designers bemoantheir return. “The neuroticpart of me would want to buyonly the best brands with themost interesting containers,”said Chicago designer DonnaMondi, who fears ugly packag-ing would mar a handsomedécor. “You’d never find aFrench’s Mustard in mine.”

“They will hold you ac-countable,” warned Newton,Mass., interior designer LizCaan of diet-displaying cleardoors, conceding that theymight make you a morethoughtful consumer.

Beyond revealing poor or-ganizational strategies, glassshows every smudge and re-quires more upkeep thanstainless steel, said the designpros. Add the loss of doorstorage and it’s hard to justifythe often-five-figure pricetag—especially if you havekids. Noted Jeffry Weisman, ofSan Francisco’s Fisher Weis-man: “Heavens help the zeal-ous child who messes up themise en place when reachingfor the peanut butter.”

—Allison Duncan

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Set a New StandardWhy settle for a generic cake stand? These modern

interpretations wittily elevate baking

FAST FIVE

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1. John Derian Color Dictionary (Medium), $340, johnderian.com 2. Lily Juliet Capri CakeStand by Joel Levin, from $375, Mecox Gardens, 212-249-5301 3.March SF Blue on BlueSplatterware Cake Stand, $200, marchsf.com 4. Paola C Tellina Stand by Chiara Andreatti,$290, artemest.com 5. Georg Jensen Bernadotte Serving Plate, $175, georgjensen.com

dog•ged/'dôg d/adjective

VictorActive Search DogRescued from Redding, CA.Photographed by Shaina Fishmanat SDF’s National Training Center.

Despite spending my early life in a shelter, there’s no dog moredetermined than me. Thanks to the National Disaster Search DogFoundation, if you’re ever trapped under rubble after a disaster,I’ll find you. That’s my job, and what I was born to do. You’ll never finda dog more dogged.

THE NATIONAL DISASTER SEARCH DOG FOUNDATIONStrengthening disaster response in America by rescuing dogs and partnering themwith first responders to save lives. Be Part of the Search™ today. Call (888) 4K9-HERO,visit SearchDogFoundation.org, or write to SDF, 6800Wheeler Canyon Road,Santa Paula, CA 93060.

DESIGN & DECORATING

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