Jaclyn Spears

Editor in Chief

Layout and Design

Columnist

Shaun Jiro Smith

Columnist

Jon Robinson

Columnist

Abby Blaisdell

Columnist

Contributors

Alexis Carlton

Carley Watson

James Kenyon

Photographs

Thanks to Jonathan Wheatcroft

for the full-page photos.

All other photos contributed by

the writers or interviewees.

Thank you!

Dear Readers,

After a short hiatus, we have finally returned!

Welcome, and thank you for reading the first issue

of Niigata Noise’s second year.

As winter sets in around us, it’s the perfect time to

curl up with tea and a blanket and enjoy some

fantastic articles by your fellow ALTs. This issue

you can read about the Niigata AJET charity’s work

in Papua New Guinea, learn more about your fellow

ALTs through interviews and editorials, and much

more.

We hope you enjoy this issue – it has been a

pleasure to put together. If you are interested in

contributing to our magazine, that’s great! We’d

love to hear from you. Check out page 5 for more

information.

Cheers,

Jaclyn Spears

Editor-in-Chief

Publications Co-ordinator

Fall 2012 (vol. 04)

Contributors

Contents

Greetings from AJET

We Want You! – How to contribute to Niigata Noise

The Niigata Family

ALT Spotlight – Shaun introduces us to Sado all-star Courtney

Niigata ALTs in PNG – James tells us what our charity has been up to

Catching Up – Hear from former Niigata ALT, Luke Hamilton

Food and Entertainment

Rice Cooker Recipes – Abby teaches us how to make use of what we’ve got

Cake Hunt – Alexis searches for the best pastries in the inaka

Gosen Gourmet – Jon takes on a tour of Gosen’s best eateries

Travel

Beyond Borders – Exploring our neighbouring prefectures.

Editorials

Far East Minded –Carley’s reflections on achieving her dream

Who Am I? – Jaclyn takes a look at Japanese pronouns

Hello everyone!

I hope that you’ve all been enjoying your

time on JET to the fullest during the last couple

of months.

First of all, I just want to say thank you to

everyone that’s been organizing and attending

events in the prefecture. AJET has been much

more active this year thanks to everyone’s

combined efforts.

Currently, myself and the other AJET

officers are planning several more events, so

keep checking your emails and Facebook for the

latest information. Some winter projects we

have in the works are a date auction, an

orphanage visit, and the 16th Annual Niigata

Charity Musical, so there should be a lot going

on to help you survive the long Niigata winter.

As always, even if you are not an AJET

officer, you are more than welcome to organize

an AJET event. Just send an email to

niigataajet@gmail.com, and we’ll try to help you

in whatever way we can.

Wherever you find yourselves during the

upcoming holidays, whether it be in Japan, back

home, or elsewhere, I hope you have a wonderful

time!

Here’s to 2013!

Megan Kelly

President, Niigata AJET

… to help make Niigata Noise great!

Work will soon begin on the next issue of Niigata Noise and we are looking for volunteers

to help out.

We need folks of all talents. Here’s a list to give you an idea of what we’re looking for:

Writers You don’t have to be a professional! Rather, use Niigata Noise as a chance to gain experience.

We’re looking for articles on: life in Niigata/Japan, Japanese culture/language, travel and travel

tips, recaps of JET events, advice, media reviews, humour and of course, food and entertainment!

Basically anything you think your fellow ALTs would like to read, we want you to write it!

Editors We are looking for 1 or 2 capable people who despise bad grammar and would like to donate a

little bit of their time to us to help improve the quality of our magazine!

Designers We are looking for 1 or 2 people who love to make things pretty – do you have a great eye for

design? Help us make NN a work of art!

Photographers and artists No one wants to read a solid wall of text in a magazine! Do you have some great photos of Niigata

on your SD card? Do you like to illustrate? We’d love to have your work in our magazine!

Remember, Niigata Noise depends entirely on the JET community for its content – it can

be whatever we want! Please don’t be shy; we’d love to hear from you. Let us know if

you’re interested!

niigatamonthly@gmail.com

By: Shaun Jiro Smith

For many a Sado JET, a year on the island can seem interminable. Five years is a whole other

animal. In a romantic sort of way, it would be nice to live on a remote Japanese island, brimming with

flora and all but unknown to the western world. From a mental health standpoint, living on an

unknown island cut off from greater civilization could be seen as a risk factor to those not accustomed

to life alone and abroad. Despite this, there's one JET who's stuck it out for the long haul.

Courtney Poster is a veritable senpai in the JET community. Maxing out her contract, she

knows the ins and outs of living and teaching in Japan and goes about her daily life seamlessly. She

also knows how to have fun and make the most of her time here. On the island she's become something

of a local celebrity. Just take a look at the Sado brochures and you'll see her smiling face front and

center; you'll also find her playing key roles at major Sado events like Earth Celebration. With more

Japan experience than most of us, we talk to Courtney for this installment of Spotlight greedy for little

nuggets of wisdom. Perhaps we'll also get a clue into what it is about Sado that has captivated her for

so long.

Why JET?

I’ll be honest, as I was not an active member of my

university’s Japanese language/culture community, I

didn’t know much about the JET Programme. About

a month before applications were due, a professor

suggested I consider applying. I did a bit of research

and decided that JET could be a great way to combine

my growing interest in Japan with my studies of

Educational Psychology. I’m also a huge fan of seeing

new things, places and people!

Greatest discovery?

Extraordinarily kind people. I’ve seen many rare and beautiful

things during my time here. I’ve even seen (the currently rare sight

of) wild Toki soaring through a clear Sunday morning sky. For me

though, nothing has been more striking than my recurrent

discovery of the blind kindness of some people. On Sado, across

Japan and in the other countries being on JET has allowed me to

visit, meeting and spending time with these people is what leaves

the strongest impression on me and is a large part of what has kept

me here for these last 4 years.

Favorite place in Niigata?

If you thought I would say anything other than the golden

island of exile itself, then you have clearly never been

here. Sado is, without question, my favorite place in Niigata.

To be more specific, I’m in love with a brilliantly scenic area

on the northwestern coast of the island, called Takachi. I

often make the hour drive up there after work to read, sketch,

write or just take in the fantastic view.

Most awesome experience so far?

It’s a close call between finally participating in the Sado International

Triathlon and doing the announcements for the Kodo concerts during

Earth Celebration. The more I think about it, the more difficult it is to

decide, so let’s just go with Earth Celebration. One of my first and best

memories here is of EC 2008. A Brazilian group called Odolum did an

incredible performance with Kodo. The energy and spirit of the show was

carried back to the crowded beach campsite where people, despite the

downpour of rain, stayed out singing, dancing, and drumming until the sun

came up. By doing the Shiroyama Concert announcements my 4th and 5th

years I was able to experience a bit of what goes into creating a

performance like that. I very much enjoyed standing next to the nervous

performers just before they went on, and seeing them practically fall off the

side of the stage amidst roaring cheers, visibly exhausted from giving it

their all. If you haven’t been to EC or a Kodo performance, I strongly

encourage you to go!

How do you cope?

I try my best to stay active and keep things

fresh. Off the island or on the island, alone

or with a group, I’m always looking for a

novel experience or a new challenge to take

on.

What do you want to

see/do in Japan the

most?

I want to do it ALL! You would think that 5

years would be enough, but it’s not. There is

so much to see and do here. I definitely have

my work cut out for me. I would say the next

place on my Must Visit list is Hokkaido. As

far as my Must Do list, it’s hot air ballooning

over the snowy mountains of Nagano.

After

JET?

Simple answer: I am

undecided.

Most epic fail?

There are times when you do or say something and as soon as it’s over you wish you

could have a retake. For me, one of those times was while filming a TV promo for that

year’s musical. What many people don’t know is that I’m not much of a public speaker

and I am very (very) uncomfortable being on TV. Nevertheless, I was able to make it

through the practice interview (also in Japanese) with no problems, and had made it to

the last question of the actual interview, “How many people are involved in the musical

this year?” I knew the correct answer was, 23 人(NIN). Yet, I absentmindedly answered

with my age at the time, 23 歳(SAI). Maybe it was due to the excitement of almost being

finished with the interview, but I somehow managed to slip-up on that simplest of

questions. I laughed at my own silliness, and asked if I could have a retake. The

producer also laughed (at me? with me?) and said, “No no, people will enjoy seeing you

mess up!”

Some time later, a kind man that had seen the interview jokingly told me, “失敗は成功の

元” (failure is the root of success). I have taken those wise words to heart, and try not to

dwell on all the fails I’ve racked up over the years.

Niigata AJET Charity Coordinator, James Kenyon, tells us

more about the amazing things Niigata JETs have

accomplished and experienced in this beautiful developing

country. Also, find out how to get involved this year!

Waria Valley is a coastal region on the

east side of Papua New Guinea, but often you'd

never guess. Take a few

steps off the beach and all

signs of the sea disappear.

You'll find yourself

surrounded by lush jungle,

rivers and one of the most

diverse eco-systems left

on the planet.

Look up and you'll

see the tribes people burning away patches of

jungle on the steep hillsides to make gardens.

They'll grow vegetables for

a season and move on,

leaving the jungle to grow

back renewed and stronger

than before. You might

even catch a glimpse of a

bird of paradise, the

country's national symbol,

flying overhead.

It's the tribes that

have made the country such a fascinating place

to so many people for so long. A single country

with over 800 languages and a strong varied

culture of song and dance like nowhere else on

the planet.

Almost all of

the land is still

owned by the

tribes

themselves,

retaining each

group's unique

identity. Throw

in the modern

mythology that built up during it's time as a

battleground between Japan and the USA in

World War II, some old accusations of

cannibalism and it's

hard to think of a more

exciting place to visit.

The country is

changing fast as its

population works out

how to use its

reputation to attract

visitors. You can see new hotels and marinas that

have recently sprung up in Port Moresby and Lae,

the two biggest cities. Foreign visitors are still a

“[Papua New Guinea is] a

single country with over 800

languages and a strong

varied culture of song and

dance like nowhere else on

the planet.”

relatively rare sight, but they won't be for long.

The final frontier is the jungles, marshes and

highlands that make up the rest of the island.

The tribes

there are new to the

international game

and big business has

been quick to move in

and exploit the natural

resources. On our trip

to PNG earlier this

year we spent time on

a beach in front of a

small village called Bau. We could see a huge

logging ship on the horizon and at night lights

further along the coast

where the loggers had

set up camp. The tribe

that lives there had sold

logging rights for a

fraction of what the land

would be worth to them

in the long run from

sustainable use. The company started to tear

down trees at a tremendous rate, doing

irreparable damage to the eco-system. Then,

without the protection of the trees, the very land

itself would begin to be worn away by the sea. It

was a sad sight.

Bau itself

was beautiful. You

could walk right

off the sand and

into the village

square. We stayed

in a guest house, a

raised wooden

building and were

woken each morning by the family of chickens

that lived underneath. The villagers took really

good care of us with

huge meals,

sometimes four a day,

ending with the

freshest watermelon

and something

fantastic called jelly

bananas that are

straight off the tree and have to be tasted to be

believed.

“A self sustaining community

has no real form of income and

would really struggle on their

own. That's where we come

in.”

At the other side of the village is where

we saw our first school, built by Niigata JETs on

the last PNG trip two years before. It stands out

as the sturdiest building

surrounded by homes

made form bush

materials that need to

be rebuilt every three

years. To make a

structure to last like the

school with its wood

panel walls and metal

roof requires tools and

materials from outside the

village.

Our charity is a

decade and a half old now,

most of that time has been

spent building schools like

the one in Bau all across

Waria Valley. It's been

fueled entirely by the time

and energy of Niigata JETs

and we've accomplished

something spectacular. We have a unique

relationship with the tribes people; they know us,

trust us and when we visit it's an event celebrated

by both parties. It's a

legacy we want to

pass on for years to

come.

We raise

money almost

entirely from the

events within our

prefecture such as the

recent Thanksgiving

dinner in Joetsu and the

dance party that will be

held after the skills

development conference

in January. The musical

has always been the

backbone, raising the

most money and keeping

lots of JETs busy and out

of trouble.

“We have a unique

relationship with the

tribes people; they know

us, trust us and when we

visit it's an event

celebrated by both parties.

It's a legacy we want to

pass on for years to

come.”

When we travel

there again in March

next year, we want to

take not only the

means to build a brand

new school that's

desperately needed but

supplies for all the

schools that have been

built before too. We're paving the way with a

brand new form of eco-tourism that will help the

tribes provide for

themselves without

sacrificing the unique

environment they live in.

And that environment

is absolutely gorgeous.

On the way to

Waria from Lae our boat

was joined by a school of

dolphins that followed us

to Saucepan Island, a

small place where we

camped, drank from

coconuts and dived in its

coral reef. Taking a

detour past a downed

American bomber,

we headed inland,

following the river

further and further

into the jungle. We

visited more

villages hidden in

the trees and

trekked into the jungle to a waterfall that's one of

the most beautiful places I've ever seen in my

life.

Everywhere we

went, the people were

wonderful. Meeting the

villages' children

especially made for an

unforgettable experience.

Skittish at first, we soon

found them following us,

charging down the beach

with huge grins on their

faces whenever they saw

us heading out to swim, it

was all over when they

realised they could climb

“We helped with the money,

but the men and women of

the village were determined

to pick up tools and build it

themselves. It was so

important to them that they

didn't just receive handouts,

instead working as partners

to create something

special.”

our backs and use us as makeshift diving boards.

But not everything made for happy

memories. The farther inland we travelled, the

poorer the villages became until all the kids had

distended bellies from malnutrition. There were

still plenty of places without education facilities

or only room to provide for two years. Families

that were determined made their children walk

for as long as three hours each way to reach the

nearest village with a school or sent them to stay

with relatives just to enter the third grade. And

then they had to learn an entirely new language

just to begin studying. With so many barriers to

their learning, it's a testament to the strength of

the people that have come far enough to build

the charity at their end, creating the links with us

here in Japan.

That's when it was explained that there's

no word for thank you in their language and they

expressed themselves by loading us up with an

incredible amount of presents. We came back

laden down with necklaces, bags, head dresses,

grass skirts and even a spear. It felt like we'd

received far more gratitude than we deserved for

the work we'd put in.

We'll just have to go back next year and

build another one to make it up to them.

Niigata JETs will be traveling to

PNG again next March. To join

them or find out other ways you

can help the charity,

email James at

niigataajetcharity@gmail.com

Please bring donations for the

booksale at the skills development

conference and go to the pub quiz

and dance party after! All money

goes to the Niigata AJET charity to

build schools in PNG.

Luke Hamilton, a native of Ireland, lived in Naoetsu for two years before retiring from the program in

July 2012. You may remember him from past issues of Niigata Noise as he was a contributor and

editor throughout our first year. We thought we’d check back in with him to get some insight into his

lasting impressions of his time in Niigata and on the JET Programme.

First, could you describe your situation in Niigata a little?

I was a prefectural ALT situated in Joetsu city for two years. I worked at four very different

high schools, each one with its own set of rewarding experiences and challenges.

What is one thing you wish you had known in your first year?

To be honest, I think I was told everything that I needed to be told prior to/upon starting my

JET contract. However, in hindsight, there are a lot of things I wish I had the foresight to appreciate

when I first arrived. For example: learning to budget! A handsome paycheck is a dangerous thing in

the hands of a financially inexperienced 20-something graduate!!!

Have you experienced any culture shock since going back home?

Most definitely. I know the whole idea of "reverse culture shock" is more or less drilled into

everyone throughout their time on JET and, to be honest, I sort of scoffed at the notion. If I can

acclimatize to life in Japan, surely reintegrating into Irish life would be a doddle. Wrong! Don't get me

wrong, I love my country and it's fantastic spending so much time with my family again but coming

from a 9 - 5, demanding lifestyle straight into unemployment and dependence on my parents again is

quite a shock to the system. This blow isn't softened by the fact that Ireland is currently undergoing the

worst economic recession in its history, making the search for employment a pretty disheartening

experience. No matter where you're from, this emphasizes the importance of keeping busy and not

sitting around wallowing in Japan-nostalgia, something I was prone to when I first got back home.

Better yet, is to have a post-JET plan sorted out before you've even finished your JET contract.

What did you learn from your experiences working as an ALT?

Besides the obvious cultural education I received during my time on JET, I think I learned

more about myself and my values than I did during any other period of my life. Packing up and

to a new country/culture is a life-changing experience; you're leaving your comfort-zone and putting

yourself in an environment where you are especially vulnerable. That's not to mention the demands of

the ALT job itself. Never mind "Every Situation Is Different", every single DAY is different when

living in Japan as a foreigner. My ability to adapt to a constantly changing environment and the

confidence that comes with that has probably been one of the most valuable things I have taken away

from my experiences there.

What do you miss the most about Niigata/Japan?

I miss looking out of my apartment window at the mountains and admiring the characteristics

of each distinct season. Each season in Japan has such a unique, dramatic beauty that I had never

experienced before, coming from a country with such a temperate climate.

What do you miss the least about Niigata?

The bloody cicadas flying into my face when I'm cycling. Ever been hit in the face with a golf

ball? I imagine that's preferable.

If you could only visit one place in Japan ever again, where would it be?

I really fell in love with Nagano city. Whenever I needed a "big-city" fix, Nagano was actually

closer and cheaper for me to get to from Joetsu. It's an arty, urban centre with all the metropolitan

necessities but none of the clamor and stress of the really big cities and some really beautiful sights

(Zenkoji, being one example). There are some fantastic little jazz bars there that have great live

improvisation sessions with local musicians - a great place to kill some time before the last train

What is your fondest overall memory of your time in Niigata?

There are so many, most of which were spent on the weekends exploring the countryside with

my buddies. The only thing better than having the privilege and freedom to explore a country as rich

opportunities for adventure as Japan is being able to do it with a group of like-minded people from all

over the world.

How did your time in Japan change you?

Other than what I mentioned before, I reckon my time in Japan has infected me with a permanent

travel bug. I don't think I will ever actually be content to remain in the one location for more than a

few years ever again. There is so much to experience in the world and so little time in which to

experience it.

Rice Cooker Recipes By: Abby Blaisdell

I remember moving into my apartment and looking around the

kitchen…mini-fridge, one stove burner, microwave, rice cooker…something

seemed to be missing. Then it hit me, there was no oven! I would love to go back in

time and see my face as that realization sunk in. What was I supposed to cook?

Clearly the translations of the names of meals in Japanese were to be taken literally

and it would be nothing but morning, afternoon, and evening rice day in and day out.

Despite my initial expectations, I have survived these past few months

without an oven-and I have been able to eat more than just rice! One thing that has

made this possible was realizing my rice cooker offers more variety in cooking than

its name suggests. Over the next year, I am excited to experiment with rice cooker

recipes, and report back to you on my creations. Let‘s start off with something easy

yet delicious: Rice Cooker Cake!

Ingredients

2 cups flour

1 tbs baking powder

1 tsp salt

1/2 cup softened butter

1 ¼ cups sugar

2 eggs

¾ cup milk

1 tsp vanilla

Mix the flour, baking powder and salt together and set aside. In another mixing bowl

blend the butter and sugar together until you have nice fluffy goo. Add one egg and beat it into

your goo, followed by the other egg. Only do one egg at a time, it makes it fluffier. Next add

your flour mixture and half the milk. Beat it together. Add the second half of the flour mixture

and milk and beat again. Keep mixing until it is even and smooth.

Grease inside of the rice cooker and pour in the batter. Hit the ‗white rice‘ button and let

the rice cooker complete its cycle. When the cycle finishes, open the cooker and check the cake

with a toothpick. If the toothpick comes out doughy, close the cooker and push the ‗white rice‘

button again. Check the cake periodically to make sure you don‘t overcook it. It may take a

couple cycles to cook completely.

To remove the cake, gently loosen the edges from the rice cooker with a plastic rice

paddle or wooden spoon. Take a small plate or large saucer the same size as your rice pot and

it up to the cake. Slowly flip them upside down, letting the cake fall onto the plate.

After the cake has cooled, finish it by frosting it with whatever kind of frosting you

I was in a hurry and wasn‘t able to make frosting so I just drizzled chocolate syrup on top and it

was pretty tasty.

So there you have it, a rice cooker cake-simple and delicious as promised! Enjoy!

Original recipe from www.splashlife.com/article/rice-cooker-cake-recipe

By Alexis Carlton

This story starts with me trying to satisfy my need for quality cakes. Living in Japan

means that unless you fork out 3 Man for a proper oven it’s no cakes or cookies for you. So I

started trying out the cake shops.

My local cake shop in Tsubame is a modest shop and sells some very nice simple cakes

and for around my first two months in Japan I’d go there of a Friday afternoon for some cake.

Sometimes I’d buy 2 pieces and while they are nice, moist cakes they aren’t something I rave

about. The shop that I do rave about, I first noticed as I was going home on the train. It’s situated on a road next to the tracks near Tsubame Sanjo Station and I would always see

someone going in there of an evening to get some cakes.

On first entering I noticed that the cakes were extremely well presented, but what

caught my eye were the éclairs. There was chocolate cream sprinkled with hazelnuts, orange,

raspberry, mixed fresh fruits, coffee and rum and raisin. I started with the orange flavoured

éclair and it was filled with amazing orange custard. I’ve had so many soggy éclairs in Australia

that having an honest to God, good éclair was astounding.

The pastry was superb, firm but not

chewy as it is freshly made on site and the

filling was so flavourful. I was so surprised

by the flavour as it had an intensity that

many Japanese sweets lack. For me, it was

something to rave about, and as my fellow

area ALTs will testify to, I have raved. At a

get together we had I took some for desert

and they likened me to a sample sales man,

bringing them the éclairs just to get them

hooked.

I have since tasted the raspberry éclair, the chocolate and hazelnut one and the seasonal

fruit. So if you’re in the mood for some superb éclairs, come to Tsubame Sanjo on the Yaiko line

and take a short walk to Patisserie Riziere. It’s well worth a look and I reckon you’ll be raving

about it to your friends afterwards too.

Hey all! This time around, I’ll be introducing you to some of my adopted

hometown favorites! In the lovely city of Gosen, you won’t find a finer place to enjoy

a comfort meal and satisfy your sweet tooth than our very own Torikan (yes, the

House of Chicken, mmmm, tasty!) and the Kimura gelato ice cream

shop.

So let’s start out with the main

course, Torikan. The Torikan offers a

bright comfortable atmosphere, the

building is clean and not in any way a

distraction from your eating experience.

You can have a seat at the counters, or

take a seat at the low tabled booths,

zabuton and tatami included. If you are

interested, they have private rooms on

the second floor for gatherings, so by

yourself or with an army of eaters, you

can be sure they’ve got you covered. A look at the menu shows you what Torikan is

all about: the chicken, double deep fried with crispy curry flavored goodness! Your

main choices are a fried half chicken, whole or cut into pieces. I prefer the

one cut into pieces (the komagire), and you can order either

chicken alone, or as a set with rice, soup, and salad. If

half a chicken isn’t your thing (although

I think it should be), they also have

other options. In fact, Torikan is a

not-quite izekaya, and as such

features many menu items you

would expect to find at an

izekaya, such as ramen, katsu,

yakitori, crunchy batter salad,

a number of otsumami items,

and in general enough to

appeal to most people,

vegetarians unfortunately not

included (horse sashimi anyone?). Prices at

the Torikan range from about 500 yen to about 1500

yen. So grab your appetite, and check out the Torikan! For

By:

Jon Robinson

you Torikan frequenters out there, I recommend you pay a visit to the not very well

known original Torikan shop down near Gosen station. It’s take out only, but I’ve

been told many times that the original recipe here is hands down

unbeatable.

Alright, now for desert,

you’ve got to hit up the Kimura

gelato and ice cream shop. This

mom and pop shop has hands

down THE BEST gelato I’ve

ever had in Japan, let alone

Niigata! It’s freshly made daily,

with a number of delicious

options, some rather common

to Japan, and some I don’t

much see elsewhere. Even

for the flavors I have tasted

before, I am absolutely impressed by

Kimura’s take on them. Sized in single, double, or triple cone or cup, you can grab

flavors such as strawberry, coconut, banana, green tea, sweet chocolate, mint, salt,

milk, cream cheese, sakura, sweet potato, sesame seed, and many more! A number

of options are seasonal and some are also regularly rotated on and off the menu. My

go-to pick? Definitely a sweet chocolate and salt double cone, but

feel free to come up with as many of your own

unique combos as your heart desires. If

it suits your fancy, they also have some

good old fashioned soft serve in a

number of flavors. Prices range from

200-400 yen for cones and cups, and

you can also opt for the take out

options, but these can be pricey, with

a 500cc container costing upwards of

1000 yen! In any case, whatever you

choose, you’ll be happy that you gave

your taste buds a treat. So, why not ask

your Gosen friends to guide you around for a day of tasty

adventures? You’ll like the way your tummy feels, I guarantee it. So,

until next time, Bon Appetit!

Exploring our inaka neighbors – by Jaclyn Spears

We live in a beautiful place, it’s true. But sometimes you may just feel the need to get out of

Niigata. Alas, we can’t all afford to make the costly trip to Tokyo or Osaka every time we need a

break – so why not explore some of our beautiful neighbouring prefectures? Listed from

cheapest to most expensive, these trips will take you to fabulous lesser-known areas of Japan

without bankrupting you.

*Travel costs are approximates from Nagaoka (Chuetsu region);

the prices may vary significantly from other regions.

Nagano By regular trains: ~6,000 yen return

Our neighbour the west is home to the

Japanese Alps and thus many people flock to Nagano

in the winter to take advantage of the excellent

skiing and snowboarding conditions. Nagano city,

host to the 1998 Winter Olympics, is a beautiful

town similar to Niigata city in feel but with the

added bonus of Zenkoji temple. Both the inside and

the outside of the temple are truly beautiful. You can

also try and find “the Key to Enlightenment” in a

pitch-black tunnel underneath the temple.

You may also be familiar with the infamous

“Snow Monkeys.” Just outside of Nagano in Yaenkoen,

about 160 nihon zaru monkeys live in the mountains

and take baths in the hot springs in their park. The

best time to visit is November-March, as they are

more likely to go for a bath in cold weather. If you’re

lucky you’ll get to witness the stampede at

feeding-time!

Finally, if you get a chance, visit Matsumoto

city as well. Home to the beautiful Matsumoto Castle,

this Nagaoka-size city sits high up in the mountains.

It takes about an hour by train to get there from

Nagano city, but the trip itself is worth the money.

The view is amazing!

Food to try: 馬刺し basashi, or raw horse meat;

信州そば shinshuu soba, famous regional soba

Yamagata By regular trains: ~9,000 yen return

Yamagata is just as much of an inaka

prefecture as our own. In fact, it has one of the

oldest populations of all the prefectures in the

country as the younger people tend to migrate

to more urban locales. However, if you’re

looking for a peaceful retreat Yamagata may

just be the perfect destination.

In Yamagata, you can check out Yamadera, a

gorgeous temple complex built into the side of

a mountain. You can journey a little ways to

Ginzan, an onsen town, for a relaxing bath.

Take a trip to the active volcano, Mt

Zao, to see the beautiful Okama, or Crater, Lake.

Also known as the “five-colour pond”, it was

formed almost 300 years ago when the volcano

erupted.

We recommend traveling to Yamagata in

autumn and spring, so you can fully appreciate

the scenery. Our contacts recommend that

you stay at Mintaro Hut in Yamagata City. Not

only is the place a great, cheap place to rest

your head, but it’s is also full of adorable cats!

Food to try: the famous pears or cherries of

Yamagata; visit Yonezawa for some great beef.

Also konnyaku (if you’re into that…)

Ishikawa Travel cost on a Limited Express train: 14,000 yen return

A little bit farther away than Nagano or

Yamagata, Ishikawa is home to the beautiful and

underrated Kanazawa city. Love the old-city vibe of

Kyoto? Try Kanazawa – smaller and easier to get around

than Kyoto, the city is home to Kenrokuen, one of the

top-three parks in Japan, as well as Kanazawa Castle.

There is also the beautiful historical tea district where

you can enjoy ocha and okashii, as well as a samurai

district filled with historic houses.

The city is famous for being the largest producer

of gold-leaf in Japan. You can buy everything from gold

leaf candy to gold leaf lotion. The town is also full of

shops selling beautiful Kutani-yaki – hand painted

pottery from the region. Though pricey, they make good

presents for a special someone, or a great keepsake.

One other great place to visit is the Kanazawa

Museum of Modern Art. Full of interesting exhibits

(when I went they had a black-lit room polka-dottified

by Yayoi Kusama) and is especially famous for the pool.

You can go down below the water and wave up at the

spectators above.

Food to try: try the soft-serve ice cream with gold-leaf

on top – you’ll feel like a star; Japanese tea and sweets

Far East Minded by Carley Watson

A butcher, a baker, a candlestick maker. A doctor, a dancer, a teacher, an athlete. A Japanese translator.

Hey, everyone has their own dreams for the future.

In elementary school, middle school, high school, and especially college, people are trying to put

together what they will end up doing in the future. As a career, as their livelihood, where will their studies and

dreams take them? Some people know from very young what they want to be, and they stick with it. Even more

people find out what they want to be later in life, maybe in college when they regret their major, and find a true

passion in an unexpected way. Maybe some people find themselves at the end of their lives, having never truly

found what they wanted to devote themselves to.

Regardless of where you fall into these categories--whether you are in Japan because you dreamed about

it since childhood, because you finished college and wanted to explore the world, or you find yourself in the

middle of working in a company that you hate and you wanted to escape--everyone is here for their own reasons,

trying to find their own way, defining what makes themselves, and honestly, living in the most exciting and

beautiful country in the world to do it.

Personally, I have loved Japan since I was six years old. I remember vividly being so entranced with it,

being overwhelmed with a feeling that I have never felt about anything else since. My father was adopted from

Germany and brought to America at a young age, and the woman who raised him, who I refer to as Aunt Loretta,

was a Japanese American. Her home in upstate New York was decorated with beautiful landscapes of Kyoto, of

Mount Fuji, photos of Whooping Cranes and women dressed in such frightfully beautiful and colorful attire I later

learned were Wedding Kimono. She had Kokeshi dolls on the dining room table, and whenever I would show

interest in the things in her home, she would tell me about Japan, about customs, and about how magical a place it

was.

Magical, indeed. That seems the only appropriate word for Japan.

I was born in Olney, Maryland, about 45 minutes from Washington D.C., and as a child, my mother

would strap me on her back and go to the Smithsonian Institute, walk around, and by doing so, may have

jump-started my love of learning. Aunt Loretta lived in Upstate New York, in a little town called Homer, and

going there, going to her home full of Japanese wonders, was always at the top of my list of exciting things to do.

In 1997, we moved to Dunedin, Florida, a little town west of Tampa, and more and more, my thoughts of Japan

started to take over. The more books I could find with photos of the country, the more I could sit and dream of

someday being able to travel there, it was my hobby. It defined me, more than anything else.

Of course, around 1998 in America, the Pokémon craze hit--and it hit hard. I‘m sure quite a few on the

JET program were seduced by Pokémon, by Sailor Moon, by Dragonball Z, Rurouni Kenshin, Tenchi Muyo,

Gundam--after all, the anime series that hit America during this time were many people‘s window into Japan and

Japanese Culture. And while many things learned from anime are gross misrepresentations of Japanese culture, at

the very least, it created an interest in American young people to learn about Japanese culture, and become

interested in a foreign way of life. From Anime, my interest in the island nation continued to snowball, perhaps

out of control.

I cannot remember the time before Japan steered my path in life.

Having kept many things from my grade school days, I recently discovered my planner from the Third

Grade, Mr. Hardins class at Garrison Jones Elementary School in Dunedin, Florida. Each week, a question was

asked--What have you accomplished so far this year? What is your favorite subject? Who is your best friend?

What do you want to be when you grow up?

And there it was, in black ink. Japanese translater. (Spelled wrong, but it was really the thought that

counted.) And seeing it at age twenty one, truly made me realize that it has been a lifelong goal, a lifelong

struggle, a lifelong passion. It has been everything to me. Where all paths converged. Every single path would, in

the end, lead to aid me in my quest to learn Japanese, to live in Japan, and to otherwise live a life which would let

me continue to study what has shaped who I am today.

A Geography teacher at my Middle School was known for taking a select few students on trips every few

years, sometimes to Europe, sometimes to Asia, during the summertime as a type of cultural exchange and

immersion. In 2002, when I was in

the sixth grade, he announced that

he would be hosting a trip to Japan

for fifteen days in the summertime.

He also announced that I was too

young to go—however, in the

months during the interview

process, I wrote essays, I spoke to

him daily after school ended, and

convinced him, in the end, that I

needed to go. This was my chance;

this was going to be my first true

exposure to the island nation.

Though I was only eleven years old

at the time, I was so moved by my

trip that it only convinced me that

in the future, once High School and Zenkoji

University were finished, I needed to not only visit Japan, but live there.

I stayed with a host family for those two weeks, in Nagano City, Nagano Prefecture. While we did travel

to many big cities as well, and stayed in Youth Hostels—In Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara, Hiroshima—I was deeply

inspired by my host family, the Osaka family, two very kind parents, an older son, and a high school aged daughter,

who I bonded with. I didn‘t speak Japanese back then, only a few common words, and the family didn‘t speak

much English, and so most of our interactions were gesture based. But we somehow understood each other, and I

feel that they understood that I wanted to try everything. For my first breakfast with them, they poured me cereal

and handed me a spoon, knowing that it would be something I was familiar with. I thanked them with a bow, but

picked up the chopsticks, and went for the seaweed and rice.

This September, during a break from ALT duties, I took a trip to Nagano City—a trip to say hello to the

family I met ten years ago, as a young child. This time, I could read the signs zooming by on the train, I could

understand the announcements at the station, and most importantly, I could speak to everyone with confidence.

This time, gestures were not needed. This time, communication was possible—and with it, came so many stories,

so much laughter, and pride in myself that I had persevered, and continue to persevere, to become fluent in this

beautiful language.

Of course, we visited Zenkoji Temple, and to the

many sights I was taken to years ago. As an adult, I can see so

much more beauty, can appreciate more—coming here in

2002, I couldn‘t understand much of what I was seeing, but

once again, my knowledge of Japanese has opened up doors

for me, allowed me to delve deeper into the history of this

country. Seeing a beautiful building is one thing—seeing a

beautiful building and knowing when it was built, that it

housed powerful samurai during feudal wars, well, that

makes it exciting.

It was enjoyable, but the best part of the trip was

being able to look at my host family, and telling them, ‗I

couldn‘t say it ten years ago, but thank you, for everything

you did for me. I kept studying Japanese with your help. I

knew you were cheering me on. I never gave up, and because

of that, I am able to be here, saying this to you now. Keep

cheering me on.‘

Visiting the school of the homestay

daughter, 10 years later.

They told me that they were my Japanese family, a family away from my family back in the states. I felt

so moved.

Things as simple and mundane as vending machines or storefronts captivated me during my first visit to

Japan. And now, having been here for two months, that sense of wonder and curiosity hasn‘t diminished. Half of it

may be the products I see, like Salty Watermelon Pepsi, or some other oddity—and half of it is due to the people

here.

Pride is the word I would use

to describe Japan. The hardworking

nature of Japanese shopkeepers and

office workers, who, no matter how

long their days have been, will greet

you with a polite greeting and smile;

that is something so intrinsically

Japanese. A work ethic which is

unrivaled exists here, and with it, well

deserved pride and willingness to

show outsiders this great land. No

matter where you go in Japan, you

will be welcomed with open arms,

welcomed with a sense of ‗Let us

show you our country and our people.‘

Being here on the JET program, even having studied Japanese for many years, and having a working

knowledge of cultural practices and manners here, culture shock did hit me pretty hard. Perhaps it wasn‘t culture

shock as much as it was homesickness, but there were moments in the first few weeks when I felt that I wanted to

go home to my family. I became angry at myself for having these thoughts—‗This is your dream, and you‘re

unhappy? What else do you want?‘ I want to say to anyone else who has experienced, or is experiencing, culture

shock, go easy on yourself. Talk to your supervisor, talk to your friends, vent, and remember that no matter how

excited you are coming here, it is still the biggest adjustment you have ever had to make. Japan is incredible, but

Japan isn‘t your home country. I came here right after graduating college, and so, it is my first experience with

living on my own, working and creating my own life. Far away from my parents and my fiancée, it can be

overwhelming. But when you feel down, remember—you live in JAPAN! On your own! Tokyo, Mount Fuji,

hilarious television, great concerts, ancient temples, friendly people, are waiting for you when you walk out your

door. Go explore. Make memories.

We all fought hard to be here. We have sacrificed—I‘m sure every person on the program has had those

days, when it seems too far away, when wanting to see your family almost outweighs living here. But this is a

valuable chance, which not many get to experience. Never forget that.

Kashiwazaki

「僕ぼ く

は誰だれ

、オレお れ

は誰だれ

、あたしは誰だれ

、誰だれ

が誰だれ

」

boku ha dare, ore ha dare, atashi ha dare, dare ga dare

Despite the differing words, in English you‘d have to

translate this line as: ―who am I, who am I, who am I,

who is who?‖

Huh? Well, if you‘re studying the language,

you‘ll know that there are a lot of ways to say ―I‖ in

Japanese, and each one is slightly different. This is

where MEG‘s identity crisis arises from: which kind of

―I‖ is she?

The most common I, of course, is watashi 「私」

the safest for learners to use as it is both polite and

essentially genderless. Then there‘s boku「僕」a humble

or ―soft-masculine‖ I frequently used by young men. Ore

「オレ」is the ―hard-masculine‖ alternative to boku,

used most commonly between male friends or by

superiors to inferiors. Atashi「あたし」 is a more

feminine way of saying watashi and is often used by

young girls or very girly women. Thus when you use a

pronoun in Japanese you are, in essence, telling the

listener who you think you are – humble or cocky?

Childish or mature?

It seems simple enough (sort of), but what really

makes the use of these pronouns interesting is that

people (especially young women) have started to

disregard the old gendered limitations and are using

pronouns that they feel reflect their personality rather

than what‘s in their pants. Meaning that in this culture

where gender roles remain very rigid the use of a

gendered pronoun can be a way to express resistance

against those roles.

A person‘s choice of pronoun can say as much

about a person as their taste in clothes does; and, like

clothes, people can change their pronoun when they

want to put out a different image. In the case of women,

who are perhaps more confined than men by the roles,

this can be particularly interesting. MEG later sings,

友達ともだち

といると「僕ぼく

」になるし

tomodachi to iru to boku ni narushi

後輩こうはい

に前まえ

だと「おれ」になる

kouhai ni mae da to ore ni naru

甘あま

えたいとき「あたし」になる

amaetai toki atashi ni naru

―When I‘m with my friends, I become boku, and then in

front of my juniors, I become ore. When I want to be

spoiled, I become atashi.‖

Recently I was listening to a Japanese song by an artist

called MEG and started thinking about grammar (weird,

I know). Opening with a lament over a too-short haircut,

the song ―WEAR I AM,‖* is all about a crisis of identity

that has the singer asking ―Who am I?‖ She sings,

MEG‘s lyrics demonstrate the fluidity of

pronoun choice; she‘s not only influenced by how she

feels, but also by how she wants to be viewed in

different situations.

Traditional attitudes towards gendered speech

have been shifting in the last few decades. For both men

and women, speech is becoming more gender neutral –

you are more likely to hear a boku or a watashi than an

ore or atashi. It is also more acceptable for women to

use words that were traditionally reserved for men. Of

course, these kinds of changes happen gradually, and a

woman may still be criticised or teased for using

masculine speech – perhaps, for example, when she calls

something ―umai‖ rather than ―oishii‖ at an enkai

(ahem).

What I really love is that as an ALT my

knowledge of pronouns gives me a little more insight

into the characters of my students that I wouldn‘t

otherwise have. Which girls choose ―boku‖ and which

girls use ―atashi‖? What kind of boy uses ―ore‖ instead

of ―boku‖ or ―watashi‖? If nothing else, this one little

detail will at least tell you how the student wants to be

perceived, which I think is a pretty big part of

understanding someone‘s personality. So next time

you‘re walking through the halls of your school, keep an

ear out and see which ―I‖ your students choose to be.