newsboy instruction book - naturecraftssite.nature-crafts.com/ms2108-newsboy-instructions.pdf ·...
TRANSCRIPT
Model Shipways Kit No. MS2108
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. • Hollywood, FloridaSold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. • www.modelexpo-online.com
Technical CharacteristicsScale: 1/8" = 1 ft.Overall Length: 21-3/8"; Hull Length: 15-1/4"Width: 8" (width of lower yard); Hull Beam: 3-3/8""Height: 15-3/8" (top of main mast to bottom of keel)
MODELING THE
NEWSBOYF BRIGANTINE, 1854 F
MODELING THE
NEWSBOYF BRIGANTINE, 1854 F
Instructions prepared by Ben LankfordModel prototype by Bob Schott ©2006, Model Shipways, Inc.
HISTORY
2
HISTORYThe Newsboy was designed by Dennison J. Lawlor of Chelsie, Massachusetts for owners Dabney & Cunningham of Boston. Built inOwl’s Head, Maine, at the Joshua C. Adams and Elisha Brown shipyard, the ship was launched in June 1854. She had a length of111 feet, beam of 27 feet, and a draft of 11 feet. While designated a Brigantine, the rig is more accurately described as a hermaphro-dite brig because there are no square sails on the main mast.
The Newsboy was engaged in the so-called triangular trade carrying lumber and manufactured goods from New England to theMediterranean, then transporting wine, oil, and fruits to the West Indies, then back to New England with rum, molasses, and sugar.
The Monthly Nautical Magazine said “having a reputation for speed , by wringing reluctant laurels from her competitors who havechanced to fall in company with her at sea ....she does her designer no discredit....her log will speak for itself ”.
The first plans and kit of the Newsboy were developed in 1948 by John Shedd, the original owner of Model Shipways in Bogota,New Jersey. The design was a reconstruction based on a hull lines plan, historical notes, and copy of the ships log of 1855 whichappeared in an article in J. W. Griffith’s Nautical Magazine and Naval Journal, July 1856. In 1964, the model plans were redrawn bythe late English Naval Architect George Campbell with some modifications to the reconstruction and more detail for the modelbuilder. These plans were the last set developed by Model Shipways for the kit.
While the plans are reproduced from the 1964 version, the kit has been updated and reissued by Model Shipways, Inc. in Hollywood, Florida, the current owner and manufacturer of Model Shipways kits. New instructions are provided along with a morecomplete set of supplies for building the model. The fittings are now cast from lead-free Britannia metal and many laser-cut woodparts have been added.
Brief History .........................................................................2Before You Begin....................................................................3Working With The Plans & Parts...........................................3 What You’ll Need To Start......................................................3 Painting & Staining ............................................................3-4
Stage A: Shaping the Pre-Carved Hull1. Using the Templates ...........................................................4 2. Carving the Hull ................................................................4 3. Carving the Bulwarks......................................................4-54. Carving the Inside of the Stern...........................................5
Stage B: Completing the Basic Hull Structures1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost.................................6 2. Installing the Rudder..........................................................6 3. Drilling the Larger Holes in the Hull .................................6 4. Holes to be Drilled as Work Progresses...............................6 5. Installing the Waterway, Planksheer, & Deck Planking.......6 6. Installing Bulwark Stanchions, Cap Rail, & Bow Rail ........6
Stage C: Mounting the HullMounting Board with Two Pedestals ......................................7
Stage D: Adding the Hull Details1. General Notes ....................................................................72. Completing the Bulwark Details .....................................7-83. Forward Cabin Construction ..........................................8-94. Aft Companionway and Skylight Construction...............8-95. Steering Gear Cover Box &
Steering Wheel Construction.............................................86. Hatches...........................................................................8-97. Quarter Bitts, Pump, & Binnacle....................................8-98. Windlass and Bowsprit Bitt.............................................8-99. Anchor ...............................................................................810. Fife Rails & Deck Eyebolts...............................................8
Stage E: General Masting & Rigging Information1. Rigging Identification ......................................................102. Block, Deadeye, Bullseye, and Line Sizes ..........................103. Sails and Sail Lines......................................................10-11 4. Applying Beeswax to the Lines .........................................12 5. Seizing Rigging Lines .......................................................12 6. Fittings & Block Strops ....................................................127. Rigging Tools & Belaying Lines........................................12
Stage F: Mast & Spar Construction1. Shaping the Masts & Spars...............................................14 2. Assembling the Masts..................................................14-15 3. Shaping & Detailing the Spars .........................................15 4. Installing the Mast Assemblies..........................................15
Stage G: Standing Rigging1. Bowsprit Rigging ........................................................16-18 2. Shrouds & Backstays...................................................16-18 3. Foremast (Head) Stays ................................................16-184. Mainmast Stays...........................................................16-185. Yard Lifts, Footropes, Stirrups, Slings & Trusses ...............18
Stage H: Running Rigging1. Foremast Staysail Rigging ................................................20 2. Main Staysail Rigging.......................................................20 3. Spanker & Gaff Topsail Rigging.......................................20 4. Fore Course Yard Rigging.................................................21 5. Fore Lower Topsail Yard Rigging.................................21-22 6. Fore Upper Topsail Yard Rigging.................................22-237. Fore Topgallant & Royal Yard Rigging ........................22-238. Final Touches ...................................................................22
Bibliography.........................................................................23
Construction Stages & Table of ContentsConstruction Stages & Table of Contents
3
Before You Begin
The Newsboy is an interesting model forbeginner and expert alike. This kit contains asolid hull which has been machine-carvedfrom select, medium-hard, fine-grained bass-wood. This style hull provides a quick andeasy lesson in the basic shapes and propor-tions of hull design and helps to developwoodworking skills. Although the exterior ofthe hull has been carved close to the hulllines as shown on the plans, further carvingis necessary for reasons of accuracy. (Carvingand finishing the hull to its final shape arediscussed in the instructions.)Constructing the Newsboy model also willprovide you with the opportunity to developsome scratch-building techniques. Duringconstruction, you may want to substitutesome of the kit fittings with your own cre-ations. By all means try them, especially ifyou think you can improve the model.If you are a beginner, completing this modelwill prepare you for a more complicatedmodel such as the Pride of Baltimore II,which is outfitted with a plank-on-bulkheadhull. In the meantime, happy modeling!
Working with the Plans & Parts
Before starting model construction, examinethe kit and study the plans carefully. Familiar-izing yourself with the kit will serve twopurposes. First, it will let you determine thatall parts have been supplied as listed. And second, you’ll be surprised at how quicklyhandling the parts allows you to better under-stand the kit requirements. Try to visualizehow every part will look on the completedmodel. Also, determine ahead of time whatmust be done first. The instructions will helpyou in this regard, but a thorough knowledgeof the plans at the outset is essential.
It is also suggested that all small fittings andhardware be sorted into labeled boxes or compartments to avoid loss during the build-ing process.
Three Plan Sheets and Three Template Sheetsare provided:
1. Hull Templates - 1 of 3 (heavy stock paper)
2. Hull Templates - 2 of 3 (heavy stock paper)
3. Hull Templates - 3 of 3 (heavy stock paper)
4. Hull Plan - Sheet 1 of 3
5. Masting and Rigging Plan - Sheet 2 of 3
6. Details & Hints Plan - Sheet 3 of 3
In addition, a set of sketches appears through-out the instruction manual to furtherillustrate the various stages of construction.
The Newsboy kit is manufactured to a scale of1/8" = 1'0" and matches the plans. Conse-quently, most of the dimensions can be lifteddirectly from the plans using a “tick strip”.
This is simply a piece of paper (a roll of calcu-lator paper tape works very well). Mark adimension from the plan onto the tick stripand transfer it to the model.
The Newsboy kit is supplied with Britanniametal, brass, as well as wooden fittings toeliminate problems in making such partsfrom scratch. Because the Britannia metalscontain no lead, there are no possible corro-sion problems. Many of these fittings willrequire final finishing before installing onthe model.
Before painting the cast-meal fittings, cleanthem up by removing all the mold-jointflash. To do this, use a No. 11 hobby bladeto cut the flash, then sand with fine sand-paper. It is also suggested that you cleanthe fittings thoroughly with warm soapywater before applying primer. Make surethey are rinsed thoroughly and allowed todry before painting.
What You’ll Need To Start
The following tools and supplies are recom-mended for the construction process.Modelers who have built before may havetheir own favorites. Almost all are availableat Model Shipways web site, www.modelexpo-online.com.
A. Knives and Saws1. Hobby knife with No.11 blades2. Razor or jeweler’s saw
B. FilesSet of needle files
C. Sharpening StoneNecessary to keep the tools razor sharp
D. Clamps1. A few small C-clamps2. Several wooden clothespins3. Rubber bands
E. Tool SetA small carving tool set or individual gouges and chisels for shaping the hull.
F. Boring Tools1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #802. Larger bits for holes such as mast,
hawse pipe, and mooring pipe holes3. Pin vise
G. Miscellaneous1. Tack hammer2. Tweezers (a few)3. Small fine pointed scissors4. Miniature pliers
a. Small roundb. Flat nose
5. Bench vise (small)6. Soldering iron or torch
a. Solder (lead-free solder recommended)
b. Flux7. Sewing thread (for seizings; other
rigging is supplied)
8. Beeswax block (for treating rigging lines)9. 1/2" or 3/4" masking tape
10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and strip metal)
H. SandpaperGarnet or aluminum oxide sandpaper (#100 to #400 grit).
I. Finishing:1. Paint brushes
a. Fine point for detailsb. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hull
J. Supplies: (will be covered in detail inthe Painting & Staining section andthroughout instructions)
1. Paints2. Primer3. Stain and Varnish4. White or Carpenter’s (yellow) Wood Glue5. Five-minute epoxy6. Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue
Note about glues: White or Carpenter’s yel-low wood glue will suffice for most of themodel. Five-minute epoxy provides extrastrength for gluing fittings. Cyanoacrylate(Super) glue, called CA glue for short, such asZap is excellent for quick adhesion and is idealfor dabbing onto a rigging seizing to hold it inplace. The best CA glue for most applicationsis a medium viscosity gap-filling type. Thewatery-thin type is recommended only to fill anarrow crack by capillary action. For CA glue,you can also purchase a liquid accelerator suchas Zip Kicker. A spray or drop of the accelera-tor will instantly cure the glue. This is handyto eliminate clamping parts for long periods oftime waiting for glue to harden.
Use CA glue with caution. You can easilyglue your fingers or eyelids together and thefumes can burn your eyes. It would be agood idea to have a bottle of CA debonderon hand. This product will dissolve the glueif you do get it on your body.
Painting and StainingIt may seem strange to begin an instructionmanual with direction on applying the finish-es to the model. Not so! Much time and effortcan be saved and a more professional resultcan be obtained if the finishing process is car-ried out during construction. Proper timingin application of finishes and the use of mask-ing tape to define painted edges shouldeliminate unsightly glue marks and splotchystained surfaces. In the end, following thesegeneral suggestions will be to your advantage.
Paint ColorsThe color scheme for Newsboy is provided onPlan Sheet 1. However, the following modi-fications are recommended, based on ModelShipways acrylic paint colors, to betterdefine the color:
4
Underbody - Metallic Bronze or BrightGreen Trim
Bulwarks - Inside - Ocean Green Trim orClipper Pearl Blue
Ironwork - Iron/Cannon Black
Spars - Colonial Pine or English Oak stain.Pine stain is also recommended for deckplanking.
Other Woodwork & Furniture - HullUmber
Paint:Use a flat-finish paint. Model Shipways lineof acrylic paints are available in the recom-mended colors. You may also purchase analready assembled Newsboy paint kit fromModel Shipways web site, www.modelexpo-online.com.
Primer:Use a grey primer (one is provided with theNewsboy paint kit). The grey color will high-light sanding scratches and other defectsbetter than white primer. Prime all wood-work to be painted, and prime all metalfittings. Lightly sand the primed items.
Use a spackling compound such as Pic-n-Patch brand to fill any scratches and defects,then re-prime.
Stains & Finishes:For natural finished wood, use a protectivecoating after staining, such as low-sheenpolyurethane varnish. You can also use anoil-resin mix like the ones sold by ModelShipways or Minwax.
For the deck and spars, Model Shipwaysstain or Minwax can be used. These are acombination stain-finish that will provide alight tone to the wood. The deck plankedges can be painted prior to installationwith any dark color to simulate caulking.
The staining of all wood parts should bedone before gluing, especially if any CA glueis used. The stain will not penetrate driedglue and leave ugly white areas in the finish.
Brushes & Procedures:Use good quality soft sable or synthetic hairartist’s brushes. A small pointed brush isgood for details. For the main hull areas, usea 1/4" to 1/2" flat brush.
Before painting, clean the model with a tackrag. Apply your paint in smooth and evenstrokes, overlapping them as you go. Thinthe paint enough to eliminate brush strokes,but not run. You will need three or fourcoats of the light colors to cover the greyprimer and maybe only two coats of thedark. Check your finish between coats andsand and add spackle as necessary to get ridof any blemishes.
You will be told how to mark the waterlinelocation in Stage A. At this line, and any-where else two colors meet, use maskingtape. Electrician’s black plastic tape or any ofthe hobby tapes made of plastic film areideal. They leave a nice edge and are notoverly sticky. Do not use drafting tape unlessit is Chart-pak brand. The edges are some-what wrinkled and paint may run underthem. A good trick; seal the edge of maskingtape with a clear flat finish and let dry thor-oughly. This will really prevent paint fromrunning under the tape.
STAGE A: SHAPING THE PRE-CARVED HULL
Sanding alone will not shape the hullenough to precisely match the hull lines.Some carving is required, especially at therail, keel, bow, & stern areas.
1. Using the TemplatesFor exact carving to hull lines, a template isrequired for the hull profile and each of thestations. You will find a template set printedon heavy stock paper in the kit. Cut the tem-plates out carefully with a No. 11 hobbyknife. Do not use scissors! You will want anice smooth edge. The profile template is intwo parts. These can be taped together toform one template. If used separately, makesure you don’t get a knuckle at the keel. Keepthe keel straight.
2. Carving the HullCut a wooden block from scrap to about 4"x 1" x 3/4" thick. Screw the block to thedeck so the model can be held in a benchvise for carving. First, check the accuracy ofthe profile and correct it as necessary.
Next, mark the centerline, rabbet lines(where hull meets keel) and station lines onthe model (Figure A-1). Note that the widthat the keel, stem, and sternpost (rabbet torabbet) is 1/8". Keep these areas flat as the1/8" keel, stem, and sternpost will be gluedon later. Place the station marks on the cen-ter of the hull bottom and on top of the railsso the marks won’t be carved off as you
work. Also, add marks for the width of thehull at each station on top of the rail. Mea-sure the marks from the centerline of themodel so the marks will be the same portand starboard.
As shown on the sketch, a good way to startis to cut a slope at the rail back to the hullwidth marks to establish the width of thehull at the rail for the entire hull length. Younow have a line to carve to as you fit thetemplates. Next, start carving approximatelyat mid length (maximum beam) andprogress forward, then aft, using chisels andgouges to cut away excess wood. Avoid carv-ing against the grain by shifting forward oraft until you find a spot where you are goingwith the grain. Basswood carves easily, soyou probably won’t have much problem withthe grain.
Carve very slowly and take off a little woodat a time. Fit the templates as you go. Carveuntil the template fits reasonably well, thenuse sandpaper to obtain the final shape. Atfirst the templates will not fit very well, espe-cially at the stern where a fair amount ofwood needs to be carved off. You must com-pare the template to the hull and visuallydecide where to remove wood. Cut a littleoff, then re-check the template.
Finally, draw a few horizontal pencil lines(like waterlines) and the vertical stationlines on the hull. Use these to visually check
the shape of the hull. Hold the hull at vari-ous angles, and look to see if the pencillines are fair (even). If you have any unfair-ness, dips or bumps, they can usually befound with this visual check. You can alsouse a stiff stick of wood, about 3/32"square, and lay it on the hull at variouslocations. Dips and bumps in the hull willshow up under the stick.
3. Carving the BulwarksMake yourself a temporary cradle to securethe hull while carving. This cradle also willserve to hold the model for most of theremaining work. Make the cradle so themodel sits in it with its waterline parallelto the baseboard and table. The tops of thecradle should be below the waterline.Later, when you are ready to paint, attacha pencil on top of a wooden block andslide it along the table to mark the loca-tion of the waterline.
The machine-carved hull has bulwarksthicker than scale so they won’t breakwhile inside the kit box. The upper surfaceis cut to the underside of the cap rail.After you carve the outside of the hull, thebulwarks will be thinner. If more thanabout 1/16" thick it will be necessary tocarve the inside of the bulwarks. This isthe most difficult part so work slowly asyou carve (Figure A-2). After carving, sandthe surfaces smooth. If you happen to have
5
or want to buy a powered rotary tool like aDremel, there are many cutters available toquickly reduce the bulwark thickness.
Note: The bulwark stanchions will go ontothe inboard side of the carved bulwarks.Together with the bulwark (planks on areal ship) they must fit under the cap rail.So check now using a stanchion strip andpiece of cap rail. If the stanchions will notfit, sand the inside of the bulwark a littlemore. Of course, you could use a widercap rail and/or thinner stanchion, butdon’t go too far or the scale will not lookproper.
Option: If you find carving the bulwarkstoo tedious, cut off the bulwark flush withthe deck and build the bulwark with 1/16"basswood sheet (not included in kit), thenadd the stanchions.
4. Carving the Inside of the SternCarving the stern area is essentially the sameas the side bulwarks, only you have to dealwith the curve and the slope. Just be extracareful while carving.
FIG. A-1 MARKING THE HULL
FIG. A-2 CARVING BULWARKS
RABBET
RAIL
WOOD TO BECUT AWAY
MARK CENTER LINE
MARK ALLSTATION LINES
MARK STATIONS &HULL WIDTHS
ON TOP OF RAIL
START CARVING LIKETHIS TO ESTABLISH HULLWIDTH AT RAIL
FITTEMPLATES
MARK RABBET LINES
WIDTHAT RAIL
MARK HULLWIDTHS AT
EACH STATION
MEASURE FROMLINES PLAN
USE GOUGEFIRST
SMOOTHWITH CHISEL
1/8"
1/8"
1/8"
6
1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost
The keel, stem & sternpost are laser-cutparts. Taper the stem and install the parts(Figure B-1). Note that the hull plan showsseveral scarf joints at the stem. Two of thejoints have been eliminated with the laser-cut parts. Also, a new scarf joint has beenadded in the keel, so the laser cut keel is intwo parts. Use pins or dowels to position theparts before gluing. Scrape off any gluesqueeze-out. Fill any gaps remaining at theglue joints with wood filler and then sand.
2. Installing the RudderThe rudder, a laser-cut part, can be shapedand installed now or later. Drill the hole in thehull for the stock. The rudder is tapered andhas a round front edge. The stock portion isround. The length of the stock is not impor-tant as it disappears in the wheel box on thedeck. The pintles & gudgeons can be madefrom brass strip, self adhesive copper tape, orstiff paper. See Figure B-2 for construction.
3. Drilling the Larger Holes in the Hull
Before going any further with the details,drill all the other large holes in the hull.These would include two mast holes, pilotholes in the keel for screws or pins formounting the model on a display base,hawse pipe and mooring pipe holes.
4. Holes to be Drilled as Work Progresses
There will be a other holes to drill as thework progresses. For example, holes forscuppers, Britannia fittings, eyebolts, andbelaying pins.
5. Installing the Waterway, Planksheer, & Deck Planking
Waterway and Planksheer - Along theinside of the bulwarks , there is a waterwayplank and on top of it a planksheer. On areal ship, the planksheer would be a singleplank going to the outside of the hull withthe bulwark stanchions going thru the plank.However, for the solid hull model theplanksheer will be fitted in two pieces; a stripinboard and a strip outboard. The bulwarkstanchions sit on top of the inboard strip.Fit the waterway first. Note that the water-way gets deeper and curves up near the bow,so you will need to cut this from the bass-wood sheet provided. Also, the bulwark issloping so the waterway needs to be carvedto fit the slope. Figure B-3 shows some sec-tions thru the waterway and planksheer.Deck Planks and Nibbing StrakeNote: This kit includes individual plankstrips in lieu of scored plank sheet found in
some other solid hull kits. As an option youcan purchase scored decking from ModelShipways. Start the planking at the centerline and workoutboard. Paint one side of each plank adark color to represent caulking. Careful notto get paint on top of the plank.Along the waterway there is a margin/nib-bing strake, cut forward and aft to prevent afeather edge on the planks as shown on thedeck plan. This detail is quite nice on amodel, but you could just feather the planksinto the waterway.The nibbing strake will be a little difficult toapply. Since you don’t know exactly wherethe ends of each plank will stop, the nibbingstrake should be cut as you go. Cut thestrake where the nibs will occur as a plankwithout nibs. Lay a plank, cutting the end ofthe plank, then cut the nib in the strake. Or,you could draw a line on the deck, cut theplank ends, and cut the nibbing strake all atonce. Figure B-4 illustrates the procedure.
6. Installing Bulwark Stanchions, Cap Rail, & Bow Rail
Install the stanchions first, then the cap rail.The cap rail at the bow and stern wherethere is a lot of curvature can be cut from thesheet wood included in the kit. Add the bowrail on top of the cap rail. Figure B-5 shouldclarify the details.
STAGE B: COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES
FIG. B-1 KEEL, STEM & STERNPOST
FIG. B-2 RUDDER
STERNPOST
GUDGEON
WATERWAY SHAPED AT BOW AREAS
PLANKSHEER STRIP OUTBOARD
PLANKSHEER STRIP INBOARD
WATERWAY
GUDGEON
BRASS STRIPOPTION-
COPPER TAPE
PINTLE
SOLDER OREPOXY PIN
1/16"
1/8"
TAPER & ROUND FRONT
PINTLE
STEM
TAPER
PIN OR DOWEL (TYPICAL)
LASER CUT RUDDER
PIN IS OPTIONAL
RUDDER(TOP VIEW)
STERN POST(TOP VIEW)
KEEL
PINTLE & GUDGEON DETAIL
FIG. B-3 WATERWAY & PLANKSHEER
7
Before proceeding with additional work it isbest to mount the hull. This step will helpprevent details from becoming damaged dur-ing handling and will allow you to make anyalignments that require a true waterline. Prop-er mounting of the hull is very important andwill allow the accurate building and aligningof the remainder of the model. The kit doesnot include any parts for mounting. However,the following mounting is suggested.
Mounting Board with Two Pedestals - Acommon mounting for ship models is a
wooden baseboard with two wooden or brasspedestals. For a homemade board, a nicelooking hardwood such as cherry, walnut,and maple would be ideal. You can roundthe top edges of the baseboard, or cut a sim-ple chamfer. If you own a router, or canborrow one, you will be able to cut a nicefancy edge on the baseboard. Stain the baseif necessary and give it a few coats of varnishor finish like Minwax.
The pedestals could be wood or brass. Onepedestal needs to be longer than the other
because you should have the model mountedwith the waterline parallel to the baseboard.If you decide on this type mounting youshould already have drilled pilot holes for thescrews as noted earlier. For Newsboy, thepedestals should be located near station 5and 11. If something went awry and thewaterline is not level, you can add a brassshim under one pedestal to correct it.
Baseboards and pedestals are available fromModel Shipways web site, www.modelexpo-online.com.
1. General NotesDon’t forget to file off any flash on Britanniametal fittings, clean the fittings and then primethem with grey primer before final paint. Mark the positions of fittings and structures.Drill holes for the fittings or for locating-pins ordowels. Before permanent installation, paint theparts according to the Newsboy color scheme oryour choice of color. If wooden parts are notpainted prior to installation, at least make sureyou have the part sanded and ready for paintingin place. Use as little glue as necessary on parts.Watch out for that glue squeeze-out. It’s hard toremove if left to harden.
2. Completing the Bulwark DetailsBefore installing anything on the deck, com-plete all the remaining details at the bulwarkswhile there are no obstacles to contend with.Knightheads & hawse timbers - Figure D-1illustrates the details at the bow on each sideof the bowsprit.Catheads - The catheads are laser-cut parts.Cut a hole in the bulwarks for the parts. Youprobably will need to shape the bottom of thecatheads to fit flush against the carved bul-wark. Drill the sheave holes for the anchortackle lines, add the cleat, and the eyebolt forthe jibboom shroud (Figure D-2).
Doublers for fore sheet sheave holes andmooring pipes, and hawse pipe and moor-ing pipe lips - Fit the doublers, then drill theholes thru the doublers and the bulwark. Anactual sheave need not be used for the sheetunless you desire the additional detail. A sim-ple hole should suffice. Drill the holes for thehawse pipes thru the waterway. The lips forthe mooring and hawse pipes are Britanniacastings and fit on both the outboard andinboard side. See Figure D-3 for some details.
Cavils & pin rails - There are three cavils oneach side. Make these from stripwood. Thepin rails need to be cut to fit around the bul-
STAGE C: MOUNTING THE HULL
STAGE D: ADDING THE HULL DETAILS
FIG. B-4 DECK PLANKING
FIG. B-5 BULWARK STANCHIONS,CAP & BOW RAILS
WATERWAY
NIBBING STRAKE
DECK PLANKS
CUTSLOTS
PIN CAP RAIL
PLANKSHEER
BOWRAILADD
STANCHIONSFIRST
8
wark stanchions. Drill and install the belayingpins before installing the rails (Figure D-4). Channels - Fit the channels on the outboardside of the bulwarks (Figure D-5).
3. Forward Cabin ConstructionLaser-cut sides and ends of the cabin are pro-vided. The top beams are also laser- cut, butneed to be cut to length. Mark the centerline,then cut off both ends.Figure D-6 illustrates the cabin assembly.After the top planks are completed, add thegalley chimney and the boat skids. The boatis a casting. Place it on the skids and lashdown. The ladder on the aft side of the cabinmust be made from stripwood.The window openings where glass will showcan be filled in with clear plastic sheet or withwood and painted light blue or black.
4. Aft Companionway and Skylight Construction
Figure D-7 shows the construction. Like theforward cabin, the sides, ends, and top beamsare laser-cut parts. The bars for the skylightand the windows can be wire but if a littletedious for your taste, fill in the opening withwood, paint the glass areas a light blue anddraw the bar lines on with ink.
5. Steering Gear Cover Box & Steering Wheel Construction
The steering gear cover box is a simpleplanked box with curved top. Add coamingsand top moulding similar to the cabins. Thewheel is a casting.
6. HatchesFigure D-8 illustrates the basic construc-tion of the hatches. All three hatches aresimilar, just the overall size and number ofhatch cover panels vary. Note on the planthat an option is to cover the hatches witha canvas cover.
7. Quarter Bitts, Pump, & BinnacleThese three items are castings. Drill necessaryholes and install the fittings. The plan shows adetail for lashing the binnacle to the deck. Thepump casting does not have the pump handlewhich is portable. A handle can easily be madeif you want to include it on the pump casting.The plan shows a detail of the handle.
8. Windlass and Bowsprit BittThe bowsprit bitt and the windlass are Britan-nia castings. The bitt only has the windlasspawl on the aft side. The crank and ratchetarms can be made from scratch using brass orwood. The windlass handles are portable socan be omitted or installed if you like. Theconnecting links can be made from wire andfitted between the crank and ratchet arms(Figure D-9).
9. AnchorThe plan shows the anchor on the port sidebut it could be placed on the starboard side.The anchor and anchor stock are both cast-ings. As an option you could make the stockfrom wood especially if a natural finish isdesired. Fit the eyebolts in the deck for attach-ing the anchor lashing lines. The plan showsthe anchor stowed. You could add the anchortackle from the cathead and leave it attachedto the anchor. The anchor cable is chain. Runit through the hawse pipe and around thewindlass. The plan shows how the anchorchain could have been laid on the deck readyfor letting go. You can use this approach orsimply lay the chain on deck in a coil.
10. Fife Rails & Deck EyeboltsBefore adding the fife rails, it would be a goodidea to install the rigging eyebolts on the deckaround the foremast hole.Each fife rails consist of a rail/bitt casting andtwo round leg castings. Assemble the threeparts. Drill the holes in the rails and install thebelaying pins. Fit the fiferails in holes drilledinto the deck around each mast hole.There are several eyebolts for rigging shownon the deck plan. Install the eyebolts for thefore yard halliards port and starboard and themain boom sheet eyebolt on the bulwarkstanchion at centerline of the stern.
FIG. D-1 KNIGHTHEADS & HAWSE TIMBERS
FIG. D-2 CATHEADS
FIG. D-3 DOUBLERS
BLOCK ADDEDOR CARVED WHENCARVING BULWARK
KNIGHTHEADP/S
HAWSE TIMBERSP/S
PLANKSHEER
CAP RAIL
CLEAT
LASERCUT
DRILLSHEAVE HOLES
SHAPE TO FIT FLUSHAGAINST BULWARK
SIMPLE HOLE FORFORE SHEET ORSLOT & SHEAVE
HOLE & LIP CASTING FOR MOORING PIPES
INBOARD & OUTBOARD
WATERWAY & PLANKSHEER
DOUBLER BLOCK
A
B
CHISEL OUT BETWEENHOLES TO DEPTH OF
TACKLE LINE
EYEBOLT FORJIBBOOM SHROUD
HAWSEPIPE
9
FIG. D-4 CAVILS & PIN RAILS
FIG. D-6 FORWARD CABIN
FIG. D-8HATCHES
FIG. D-7 AFT
COMPANIONWAY& SKYLIGHT
FIG. D-5 CHANNELS
PIN ORJUST GLUE
TOP PLANKING
TOPMOULDINGS
CORNER POSTCHAMFER EDGE COAMING
COAMING
PAWL ISON
CASTING
RATCHET ONWINDLASS
CASTING P/S
BITTCASTING
WIRE
GLUEARMS
TO RATCHET
MAKE CRANK FROMWOOD OR METAL
CUT ARMSFROM WOOD
OR METAL
CUT ARMSFROM WOOD
OR METAL
HATCH UNITS
2 GROOVESFOR CANVASCOVER TIEDOWN ROPES
SIMPLIFIED HATCH COVER -SCRIBE JOINTS
LASER CUTSIDES & ENDS
LASER CUT BEAM,2 - EQUALLY SPACED
SCRIBE PANELLINES ON DOOR
FIT PIN RAILUNDER
CAP RAIL
DRILL HOLESFOR BELAYING PINS
CUT SLOTS FORSTANCHIONS
CAP RAIL
NOTCH FORCHAINPLATE - INSTALLCHAINPLATES,THEN ADDCOVER STRIP
CHANNEL
TYPICAL CAVIL
TYPICALPIN RAIL
MODEL
REAL SHIPOPTION
WINDOW FRAME& SLIDING PANEL
SLIDE RAILS
DOORFRAME
SCRIBE PANELLINES ON DOORS
CENTER HINGEBEAM
BASE COAMING
HINGEDLIFT TOP
SLIDINGCOVER
CAPRAIL
SKYLIGHT
FIG. D-9 WINDLASS &
BOWSPRIT BITT
Plank, Mouldings, windowframes, coamings &corner posts constructed same as forward cabin
COMPANIONWAY
1. Rigging IdentificationAll of the rigging is identified by name on therigging plan. If you are not familiar with thenames and functions of rigging lines, the bookHow to Build First-Rate Ship Models From Kitsby Ben Lankford contains a description ofNautical terms (See Bibliography).
2. Block, Deadeye, Bullseye, and Line Sizes
Blocks, Deadeyes, and Bullseyes - Theblock sizes shown on the plans are actualfull ship sizes (length in inches). Deadeyeand bullseye sizes are given in full ship sizediameters (inches).There are a limited number of different sizeblocks, deadeyes, and bullseyes in the kit.The following is a suggested list of kit blocksizes to use for the actual full ship sizes:Blocks Lengths4" to 9" - Use 3/32" length kit blocks10" & 11" - Use 1/8" length kit blocksNote: For double blocks 9" or less, use 1/8"blocks as no 3/32" blocks are available. For the 10" Triple block, make from scratch as there are no triple blocks less than3/16" available.Deadeye Diameters6" & 7" - Use 3/32" diameter kit deadeyes8" - Use 9/64" diameter kit deadeyesNote: The deadeyes are slightly oversized toscale to simplify rigging lanyards and thereare two sizes to give a visible differencebetween lower and upper shrouds.Bullseye Diameters6" & 7" - Use 3/32" diameter kit bullseyes10" - Use 9/64" diameter kit bullseyesRigging Line - Line sizes are also shown onthe plans. These are in full ship size line (circumference in inches).There is a limited number of different sizelines in the kit. The following is a suggestedlist of kit supplied line sizes in diameter inches to use for the actual full ship circumference sizes:Line Circumference1", 1-1/2" - Use 0.005" diameter kit supplied line2", 2-1/2" - Use 0.008" diameter kit supplied line3", 3-1/2", 4", 4-1/2" - Use 0.012" diameter kit
supplied line5", 7-1/2" - Use 0.018" diameter kit supplied line8" - Use 0.028" diameter kit suppliedNote: 0.005" to 0.012" line will be bothblack and tan. 0.018" to 0.028" will beonly black.Also, there are several running lines on theplans that are not sized, primarily staysailsheets and downhauls. However, the block
sizes are shown. Use the following block andline size combinations:3/32" blocks, use 0.005" or 0.008" diameter line1/8" blocks, use 0.008" or 0.012" diameter line
3. Sails and Sail LinesModel with Sails The plans for this model include a full openset of sails, but you have the option of build-ing the model with sails furled, partiallyfurled, or with no sails.Most of the rigging text and detail sketchesprovided in the instructions will be address-ing the model without sails. However, thefollowing provides some typical model pro-cedures if you prefer to add sails. Follow the
plans for the specifics on each sail:Making a model sail (Figure E-1) - Choos-ing the proper material is critical. Sailclothfor models must be lightweight, yet fairlyopaque. Although linen is ideal, most is tooheavy for small scale models, so select tightlywoven cotton fabric. Wash the sailcloth sev-eral times to pre-shrink it. When dry, ironthe fabric, but be careful not to scorch it.Lightly pencil in seams, tabling (hem) lines,and other reinforcements, then sew theseams using light tan cotton thread. Asewing machine makes fast work of the proj-ect. Practice on scrap fabric and balance theneedle thread tension so it doesn’t pucker thematerial. Stitch lines to represent reinforce-ment patches.
10
STAGE E: GENERAL MASTING & RIGGING INFORMATION
FIG. E-1 MAKING SAILS
FIG. E-2ADDING REEF POINTS
& BOLT ROPES
SAIL CLOTH WEAVE SAME ASSEAM DIRECTION
PENCIL LINES,THEN SEW SEAMS
PENCIL LINES, THENSEW TO REPRESENT
REEF BANDS
"A"(CUT)
"A"
"B"
SEW "C"
"B" "C"
STITCH TOREPRESENTREINFORCEMENT,OR SEW A PATCH,OR GLUE ONPATCH WITHFABRIC GLUE
FINAL SHAPE
TUCK CORNERS &SEW BY HAND
BOLTROPE
REEFBAND
TOUCH ENDS WITH GLUESO IT WILL NOT UNRAVELSEW BY
HAND
SEW "THRU" THE LINE,NOT AROUND ITHOLE AS
CRINGLE IF NOBOLTROPE USED
REEF POINTS
PUNCHHOLE
SEWDOWN
FORM CRINGLE
SEW SEAMS FIRST,THEN CUT AT "A"
TABLING (HEM)
BOLTROPES
BOLTROPES
REEF POINTS
11
Before proceeding, iron the sails again andbe careful not to scorch them. Next, cut thesail shape using Line A shown in the sketch.Fold the hem, iron it flat, and sew as closeto Line B as possible. Tuck the ends andhand stitch the comers. The sail is nowready for stretching.Stretching the material assures the sail’sproper shape, since sewing may have alteredit. Using the original pattern, trace the sail’soutline onto a piece of paper. Place the paperon a solid but porous backing, such as awood or cork board. Now wash the sail againand lay it over the outline. Stretch the wetmaterial to the sail’s outline’s, then securewith stick pins through its outer edges.When dry, the sail will have resumed itsproper shape. Iron it one more time.Boltropes and Reef Points (Figure E-2) -Although boltropes (rope sewed to the edgeof a sail to give it strength and prevent thefabric from ripping) can be omitted on smallscale models, they add immeasurably to larg-er ones. The sketch shows the correct way tosew boltropes and install reef points.Sewing Aids - Visit a fabric shop and pur-chase a squeeze bottle of Fray-Chek, a lightadhesive. Running or brushing a bead alongthe edge of a sail prevents the material fromunraveling. Do this before attempting to rollthe hem. Painting Fray-Chek on untreatedfabric makes cutting easier and produces acrisp edge. Stitch-Witchery and Wonder-Under areheat-fusing bonding tapes that resemble thinmat fiberglass. Stitch-Witchery comes in aroll and is bond-sensitive on both sides. Tojoin two clothes, simply place a stripbetween them and iron. Wonder-Undercomes in sheets with a thin paper backing onone side. While not needed for Newsboy, it isuseful for bonding letters and numbers to ascale sailboat’s sail (maybe one of your futuremodels). First, buy the colored fabric for thenumbers. Place the Wonder-Under sheet onthe cloth with the paper backing up. Iron thesheet to bond it to the fabric. Next, cut outthe letters, numbers, logo, or whatever withscissors or a sharp blade. Peel off the paperbacking, position the letter on the sail, andiron. This technique also works for makingflags from colored fabric.Material for Furling Sails - A sail cut to theoriginal’s scale size is impossible to furl. Thefabric is usually too heavy, resulting in abulky furled sail. To solve this problem,either buy a lighter material such as Silkspan(model airplane covering tissue) or propor-tionally reduce the size of a sail by one-thirdwhen using sailcloth (Figure E-3). Depend-ing on their size, even Silkspan sails mayrequire reducing by one-third. Test the per-centage reduction to determine how muchfabric is needed for a tight furl. Don’t forgetto add some seams and hems, for thesedetails are visible even on furled sails.
Furled and Partially Furled Sails (FigureE-4) - Sails are often left partially furled, per-haps for drying the sail. This is a practiceespecially suited to square sails, with the sailpulled up with their clew lines and buntlines. The sketch illustrates some “looks” of
furled and partially furled sails.Note: Model Shipways has silkspan and abalooner cotton sail cloth. Check their website. The balooner cloth may be a little heavyfor this model. A lighter cotton cloth wouldbe a better choice.
FIG. E-3 SAIL SHAPESFOR FURLING
FIG. E-4 FURLED & PARTIALLY FURLED SAILS
FIG. E-5 SEIZINGS
FULL SAILPATTERN
BUNT & LEECHLINES
CLEWGARNET
REEFTACKLE
JIBSTAY
OUTERJIB STAY
CLEWGARNET
AFT
START WITH ACLOVE HITCH
WRAP, THEN GLUE & CUT-OFF ENDS
GLUE
SEIZING SMALL BLOCK OR AROUNDSPAR USING A SLIP NOT
CUT TO THISSHAPE TOREDUCE BULKFOR FURLING
SQUARE SAIL
SQUARE SAILS
FURLED PARTIALLY FURLED
HEAD SAILS FURLED
STAYSAIL
12
Model without sailsEven without sails, some of the rigging linessuch as sheets, halliards, and clew lines are toremain, along with their lead blocks. Someof the lines are to be hooked together, suchas head staysail halliards and sheets, and yardclew lines and sheets. The hauling ends ofthese lines should be belayed at their properlocations. Installing these sail rigging lines onthe model adds tremendously to the look ofthe model, especially at the stays where thecontrasting black stay and light runninglines, along with their blocks, create interest-ing visual detail.
4. Applying Beeswax to the LinesBefore placing rigging lines on the model,run the line through a block of beeswax sev-eral times. Then, run the line through yourfingers. This heats the wax slightly and rubsit into the line. The beeswax will cut downon fuzz and protect the line from moisture.
5. Seizing Rigging LinesSeizing of lines (binding or securing twolines or different parts of the same line) canbe done as shown in Figure E-5. To preventseizings from unraveling, add a touch of CAglue. For seizings, use the smallest line in thekit or sewing thread.
6. Fittings & Block StropsMaking Fittings - This model is of a periodwhen iron fittings were used extensivelythroughout the ship. Most of these fittingson the model must be made from scratchunless a casting is provided. Brass is a pre-ferred material for these fittings, which mayor may not require soldering, but there areother options that can be considered. Thefollowing listed sketches illustrate some typi-cal fittings and some simplified methods formodeling them. The methods can be appliedto any similar fitting.Figure E-6 - Rigging bands found aroundsuch items as masts, yards, booms, gaffs,bowsprits, and jibbooms.Figure E-7 - Fixed yard truss.Figure E-8 - Moving yard parrels.Note that brass strip, self adhesive coppertape, and eyebolts are provided in the kit.Sufficient quantities are supplied no matterwhich method you choose for your fittings.Block Strops - A strop is an iron or ropeband or grommet around the shell of a blockfor attaching lines. The blocks in the kit arefairly small so it will not be easy for you tocreate the exact detailing. Some modelingshortcuts are in order. See Figure E-9 forsome life-size ship details and model options.Note: For the Newsboy, like the other metalfittings, iron stropped blocks will be usedquite often. However, rope stropped blockswere also used and often preferred to preventchafing of sails, safety, and other reasons.
You won’t be wrong, no matter whichmethod you use. The reprint of the bookSpars and Rigging from Nautical Routine(see bibliography) is an excellent text to consult for the period. Both iron and ropestropped blocks are discussed.
7. Rigging Tools & Belaying LinesThe belaying pins in the kit are a little over-size since they are the smallest pins available.They could be cut to a shorter length or justleft as is.To aid the rigging process homemade tools canbe made from brass rod with a push fork endor a hook end (Figure E-10). Use a brass rod
long enough to reach in where your hand can-not. Such tools are also available commercially.When belaying lines on small scale models itis best to secure the line to pins or cleats first.Then add a coil of line on the belaying pointseparately. See Figure E-11.A word of advice - Rigging plans are some-times hard to follow. Lines may cross eachother and they sometimes go behind some-thing or seem to disappear into thin air.Before you start the rigging, get a notebookand do a small sketch of each rigging line ona separate page. Sketch in where the linesend such as at an eyebolt and label thesepoints. If something seems to be missing
FIG. E-6RIGGINGBANDS
FIG. E-8 YARD PARRELS
FIG. E-7 MODEL YARD TRUSS
BRASS STRIP OPTIONS
SELF-ADHESIVE COPPER TAPE
HINGED STRAP TYPE
BARREL TYPE
WRAP TAPE ON SPAR.DRILL HOLES FOR
EYEBOLT EYES
EYEBOLTEYES
BRASS ORTAPE BANDS
WOODCHEEK
WIRE ORSTRAPPARREL SIMPLE ROPE-TYPE
(OLDER, SMALLER SHIPS)
BAND
PIN ORSOLDER
BAR SIMILAR TOFIXED TRUSS
BARREL FROM TUBING,WOOD, BRASS STRIP,
OR TAPE
SOLDER
SHAPE& DRILL HOLE
SOLDERSOLDER
MAST
SOLDER
BRASSBAR
SIMPLIFIEDALL-WIRE TRUSS
OPTION - SOLDER
BANDS -BRASS OR
TAPE
PIN
YARD
TWIST
OPTION - USE PIN
OPTION - USE EYEBOLT
DRILL HOLESFOR
EYEBOLTSBEFORE
INSTALLINGBAND ON SPAR
SOLDER & SHAPESIMILAR EYES
13
when you view your sketches, seek help orfind the answer in a rigging text (consult thebibliography). Use the final sketches as yourig the model. You won’t need to crawl yourway thru the rigging plan again.
When rigging such items as yards, boomsand gaffs, do as much rigging as possiblewith the item in hand before installing thepart on the model. Seize the lines to the partand have enough running rigging line so itcan reach to its final destination, such as abelaying pin, with a little line left. Better tobe too long than too short. Standing riggingsuch as yard footropes are included as thesewould be very difficult to do with the yardhanging at the mast.
FIG. E-9 BLOCK STROPSHOOK
EYEBOLT
LASHING
BECKET
ROPE STROP
REAL SHIP
IRON
ROPE
FOR WRAPPING AROUND SPARS
MODEL OPTIONS
NO HOOK
TWIST
WIRE
GLUE
GLUE
SEIZEWITH
THREAD
BELAYING LINE TO PIN
SEPARATE ROPE COILS
PULL TIGHT,CUT & GLUE
REMOVABLE PIN
JIG
REMOVABLE PIN
FOR A MORE OPEN,REALISTIC LOOK,OMIT THREAD &GLUE COILS TO EACH OTHER
ADD WHITE GLUETO STIFFEN
USE TOOL TOPUSH LINE UNDER PIN
USING RIGGING LINE
SEIZE &GLUE
LINE OR WIRE
SLIP NOT & GLUE
FIG. E-11 BELAYING LINES
BRASS ROD
WOODHANDLE
LARGE SEWING NEEDLE
PUSHFLATTEN
END,FILE
SHAPE
CUT WITHSNIPS OR
FILE
PULL
FIG. E-10 RIGGING TOOLS
14
Most references call a mast a mast, and any-thing else such as a boom, yard, gaff, andbowsprit a spar. Let’s stick with that definition.The mast and spar dowels included in the kitare round. True to scale, masts and spars mustbe tapered for their full length.
1. Shaping the Masts & SparsTapering the Masts and SparsThe correct shape of the masts and spars areshown on the plans. Each of the mast andspars are generally tapered in a slight (parabolic) curve. However, for models, itmay be difficult to accomplish a parabolicshape. A straight line taper should be suffi-cient. The best way to taper masts and sparsfrom dowels is to cut the taper into squares,then octagons, and finish by sanding into around shape (Figure F-1).Note that the fore topgallant mast and themain topmast have rigging stops where staysand lifts secure. A rigging stop is simply ashoulder formed by the reduction of the mastdiameter going above. The shoulder preventsthe lines from sliding down the mast. For themodel, to actually cut the shoulders couldweaken the mast and it could break. Instead,as an option, wrap the mast with thread orpaper strip and glue to form a fake shoulder(Figure F-2).Shaping the Mastheads & HeelsAfter tapering, the next areas of the masts tobe shaped are the mastheads and heels wherethe masts join together at the doublings (seeplans for location).The fore and main lower mast heads and thefore topmast head is square with chamferededges, and has a square tenon at the top forfitting the mast caps. Also, there is a flat sideon the lower masts where the trestletreecheeks fit. The heel of the fore and main topmast andthe fore topgallant mast is square. A fid islocated in each topmast and topgallant mastheel to prevent them from falling through theholes formed by the trestletrees. For this par-ticular ship the square heel is offset forward toprovide more space for the shrouds passingbetween the two masts. Figure F-3 illustrates the shaping of the mast-heads, heels and the fid. Since you are dealingwith wood dowels, the sketch also shows howto build the square ends by adding wood tothe cut-end. Adding wood is necessary becausethe dimension across the flats of the squaremust be the same as the dowel diameter. Con-sequently, the diagonal of the square is greaterthan the dowel diameter. This method can beused for masts heels with, or without an offsetas we have with Newsboy. It’s just a matter ofcutting the initial square in an offset positionor centered and adding sufficient wood so theproper detail can be carved.
2. Assembling the MastsThe mast caps are laser-cut parts. Add allbands and fittings to the caps before assem-bling the masts, or at least before you installthe assemblies into the holes in the deck.Make the trestletrees and cross-trees fromstripwood and cut the cheeks under thetrestletrees from the sheet wood in the kit. Fitthe topmast and topgallant masts in the mastcaps, then fit the assembly to the mast below.Make sure the masts at the doublings arealigned per the plan. Mast Details - Before painting and stainingthe masts there are a few details to add. Drillthe holes representing sheaves thru the mastsfor yard halyards. The mainmast has a rest forthe boom. This is a casting provided in thekit. Slide and glue the casting onto the mast.You may need to file out the hole for a properfit. Also, the chocks are a bit long so should
be filed down somewhat. Add the ball on topof the fore topgallant and main topmast. Addthe fittings for the futtock bands and lower
STAGE F: MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION
FIG. F-1 TAPERING DOWELS
FIG. F-3 SHAPING MASTHEADS & HEELS
FIG. F-2TOPMAST RIGGING STOPS
MAST
MASTHEAD
SPAR DIAMETER BUILD-UP
TOPMAST & TOPGALLANT HEEL
TAPERREQUIRED
DRAW SQUAREON END
SQUARE
TOPTRESTLETREES
FLAT SIDESIN WAY OF
THE CHEEKSROUND
WRAPTHREAD& GLUE
1. CUT SQUARE 2. CUT SQUARE 3. FINAL SHAPE
NOTE: SQUARE IS OFFSET FORWARD
NOTE: OFFSET IS NOT TYPICAL ONMANY OTHER SHIPS
CHAMFEREDGES
FID
ROUND
SQUARE
1ST CUTSQUARE
2ND CUT8-SIDED
SANDEDROUND
DOWEL
CENTER OF YARD OR MAST HEEL
REAL SHIP MODEL OPTION
15
yard trusses. And finally, add the ship’s bell onthe foremast. Figure F-4 illustrates someassembled mast details.Spanker and Gaff Topsail Mast Hoops -These need to be put on the mainmast beforeinstalling the masts if you elect to includethem. Refer to Stage H for a discussion onthe hoops.
3. Shaping & Detailing the SparsYardsShape the yards in the same manner as themasts. The maximum diameter of each yard isat its center. Taper the yards outward fromeach center. Yard Details - You need to detail the yardsas much as possible before placing them onthe masts. Cut a shoulder on each end ofthe yards which is a stop for lifts andfootropes. Also, drill holes (sheaves on realship) in the ends of the yards for the sheetsfrom the sail above.Jackstays consists of a series of eyebolts thruwhich a rod is passed. The rod and eyeboltsare used for attaching the head of the sailand the footrope stirrups. Note that the eye-bolts are on top of the yard but slightlyforward of the yards centerline. Add all theparrel and truss fittings, and bands for theblocks near the center of the yards.Figure F-5 illustrates a typical yard.Boom & GaffsThe main boom and gaff also taper, but themaximum diameter of each spar should beabout one-third from its fore end. Unlike theyards, there is no shoulder at the outer end ofthese spars. However, there is a chock in eachside of the spar to act as a rigging stop. Add allthe fittings like the boom sheet band and cleats.The boom and gaffs require that jaws beadded to their throats for joining to the masts.The jaws are laser-cut wood parts for this kit.The fore end of the gaff jaws are curvedupward as shown on the plan. You can cut aslit in the laser-cut jaws, bend and glue toform the curve or omit this detail (Figure F-6).Bowsprit, Jibboom, & Dolphin StrikerThe bowsprit is round inboard, changing tosquare, round again, and back to square at theouter end. To save adding wood to create thesquares like you did with mast heels, it wouldbe easier to use the square strip provided inthe kit instead of the dowel. Tenons arerequired on each end of the bowsprit to fit thebowsprit cap and the bowsprit bitt on deck. The jibboom should be straight from the aftend to the bowsprit cap, then tapered for-ward. On the inboard end, cut the tenon tofit into the block at the bow. At the outer endcut the shoulders and add the rigging bands.Drill the holes for stays to pass thru. The Dolphin Striker is a simple taperedround spar. Add the fitting at the top and bot-tom of the spar. The cleats at the bottom can
be a bent wire with flattened ends, a detail ofthis is shown on Plan Sheet 3. Assembly and Installation - Glue thebowsprit cap (laser-cut part) onto thebowsprit. You will need to shape the holes abit for both the bowsprit and jibboom sincethe cap is at a slight angle to the spars. Insertthe jibboom, but don’t glue it to the cap. Fitthe dolphin striker (proper name martingale)to the bowsprit cap. Add the bees for the stays.Before going any further, fit the assembly tothe hull to make sure the jibboom andbowsprit tenons fit correctly into the jibboomblock and bowsprit bitt. Then you can com-plete the fittings for the assembly (Figure F-7).
4. Installing the Mast AssembliesIt is recommended that before installingmasts, secure the yards, boom and gaff to the
masts. Temporarily hang them with some lineso they don’t flop all around. Install the mastassemblies in the holes drilled into the deck.Check the alignment and shim if necessary,then add the mast coats. The mast coats areactually canvas covers over the wedges on areal ship holding the masts in place. For themodel, mast coat halves are laser-cut parts.Add these at the deck around the masts.
FIG. F-4 MAST DETAILS
FIG. F-5 TYPICAL YARD
MAST HEADS
YARD WITH PARREL
YARD WITH TRUSS
CAP
CAPBAND
CHEEKS
BOLSTER
TRESTLE TREE
CROSSTREE
HOLE FOR YARDHALLIARD ON
TOP FORE MAST
TRUSS &FUTTOCK
BAND
FORWARD
JACKSTAYEYEBOLTS
JACKSTAYROD
SHOULDER
HOLE FOR SAILABOVE SHEET
HINGEDPARREL
BANDS WITH EYESFOR BLOCKS
BAND FOR HALLIARD
BAND FORSLING
CHOCK
TOPMAST ORTOPGALLANT
SHOULDERS ONFORE TOPGALLANT
MAST
CRANE FITTING ON MAINMASTFOR GAFF THROAT HALLIARD BLOCK
HOLE FOR YARDHALLIARDSEYEBOLTS FOR
GAFF PEAK HALLIARDS - MAIN MAST
ONLY
16
1. Bowsprit RiggingBegin the standing rigging with the bowsprit.Install the two bobstays, the inner and outermartingale stays, the port and starboard martingale backstays (all chain). Next, rig the footropes, bowsprit shrouds, and the jibboom shrouds. Figure G-1 illustrates therig to this point. Rigging at the bowsprit willbe completed while and after installing theforemast (head) stays. But first, the mastshrouds need to be installed since the headstays and all fore and aft stays go over top ofthe shrouds at the mastheads.
2. Shrouds & BackstaysThe lower shrouds are set up with deadeyesand lanyards at the channels and attachedalong the outside of the ship using chainplates. The topmast and topgallant backstaysare shown on the drawing set up to bullseyesand chain plates. However, there is a note atthe bottom of Sheet 2 indicating the use ofdeadeyes as an option for a ship this size. The deadeye strops and chain plates are to bemade of wire provided in the kit (Figure G-2).To set up the shrouds, make a temporary jig ofwire to space the deadeyes as you do the seiz-ings (Figure G-3). The sketch also shows thesequence for reeving the lanyards and theproper sequence for the shrouds going aroundthe mastheads. Keep an eye on the masts asyou rig the shrouds, so you will not pull themout of line.The fore topmast shrouds are set up similar tothe lower shrouds but instead of having chainplates they set up to iron futtock shrouds. Thefore topgallant and main topmast shroudshave no deadeyes and pass thru the cross-treesand set up to a band around the mast. FigureG-4 illustrates the upper shrouds.After the shrouds are in place, proceed to addthe ratlines and the sheer poles (Figure G-5).The sketch shows real ship practice and vari-ous model options. Note there are no ratlineson the main topmast shrouds.
3. Foremast (Head) StaysForestay -The forestay is a double line seizedtogether just below the masthead and justabove the deck. The lower ends set to bullseyeswith lanyards on each knighthead at the bow(Figure G-6).
Fore Topmast Stay -This stay is also doubleand is seized together just below the mastheadand above the bowsprit. The lower ends passthru the port and starboard bee holes on thebowsprit and are secured by bullseyes and lan-yards at the bow (Figure G-7).
Inner and Outer Jib Stays - The single linejib stays feed thru a hole in the jibboom, downto cleats on the dolphin striker and are set tobullseyes and lanyards at the hull. Note thatthe inner jib stay goes to the port side and
outer stay to starboard (Figure G-8).
Fore Topgallant Stay and Fore Royal Stay -These stays pass thru holes at the end of thejibboom, under the cleats on the dolphinstriker, and are set to bullseyes and lanyards atthe hull. Note that the topgallant stay goes toport and royal to starboard (Figure G-9).
4. Mainmast StaysMainstay - The stay is double and is seizedtogether just below the masthead and justabove deck. The lower ends are set to thimblesand eyebolts at the deck on each side of themast (Figure G-10).
Middle Stay - This stay is fixed to an eyeboltat the mainmast cap and to a bullseye andstrop around the fore masthead (Figure G-11).
STAGE G: STANDING RIGGING
KNOT
PARREL
TENON
ROUND
CATHEAD
BOBSTAYS
STIRRUP P/S
EYEBOLT P/S
EYEBOLTON SIDE
OF CAP P/S
FOOTROPEP/S
SLIP-PREVENTKNOTS
MARTINGALE BACKSTAYS P/S
BOWSPRIT SHROUDS P/SJIBBOOM SHROUDS P/S
OUTER MARTINGALE
CHAIN
INNER MARTINGALE
CHAIN
SQUARESQUARE
ROUND
ROUND BEES P/SROUND
BOBSTAYBANDS
BOWFLATTENSIDES
FIG. F-6 BOOM & GAFF JAWS
FIG. F-7 BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY
FIG. G-1 BOWSPRIT RIGGING
LASER-CUTJAW HALF
FOR CURVED GAFF JAWS,CUT & BEND OR ADDWOOD AND RESHAPE
BOWSPRIT
GAMMON IRON
TENON
HINGEDSADDLE
BAND
JIBBOOM - ROUNDHOLES FOR STAYS
MARTINGALE CHAINBANDS
DOLPHIN STRIKER - ROUND
CLEAT
BAND
CAP - LASER-CUT
17
Main Topmast Stay - The top of the stay isseized around the rigging stop on the maintopmast, passes thru an eyebolt on the fore-mast cap and sets to an eyebolt on theforemast trestletree (Figure G-12).
Main Topgallant Staysail Stay - Seize the stay around the upper rigging stop of the main topmast. The lower end is secured to aneyebolt in the fore topmast head cross-tree(Figure G-13).
Main Topgallant Stay - The upper end isseized around the upper rigging stop of themain topmast. The lower end is seized to abullseye and strop around the fore topgallantmast lower rigging stop (Figure G-14).
FIG. G-2 DEADEYESTROPS &
CHAIN PLATES
FIG. G-3 SHROUD SETUP
FIG. G-4 UPPER SHROUDS FIG. G-5 OPTIONS FOR TYING RATLINES
FIG. G-6 FORESTAY
STROP
CHAINPLATE
TWIST
TEMPORARYWIREJIG
KNOT
SEIZE
STAYS
SHROUDS
PORT
PORTCUT-OUT& GLUE
CLOVEHITCH
THREADWITH NEEDLE
CLOVE HITCHESALL SHROUDS
EYE SPLICELASHED TOSHROUD(REAL SHIP)
SHEERPOLE LASHEDTO SHROUDS
TIE LANYARD& GLUE
MAKE A LITTLE LONGERTHAN REQUIRED. LET LANYARDS PULL SHROUDS TIGHT
MODELOPTIONS
SHROUD SEQUENCE
VIEW ISINBOARDLOOKING
OUTBOARD
LANYARDSEQUENCE
BOLT
WIRE
NAIL
BACKINGLINK
CROSS TREES
FUTTOCKSHROUD
(IRON ROD)
SHACKLEP/S
SHROUD
EYESPLICE
LASHING
SHACKLEP/S
EYEBOLTS INKNIGHTHEADSAT BOW
BULLSEYES &LANYARDS
SEIZE
SEIZE
FOREMAST
PLAN SHOWS STAYIS LEATHERED AROUNDMAST - OPTION FOR MODEL
DOUBLE LINE
CROSS TREES
FORE TOPMAST FORE TOPGALLANT& MAIN TOPMAST
18
FIG. G-7 FORE TOPMAST
STAY
FIG. G-8 JIB STAYS
FIG. G-9 FORE TOPGALLANT & ROYAL STAYS
FORETOPMAST
SIMILAR TO FORESTAY
BEES ONSIDES OF BOWSPRIT
BULLSEYES &LANYARDSAT BOW
DOUBLE LINE
SEIZE
P
S
SEIZE
AT BOW
BULLSEYES &LANYARDS
JIBBOOM
INNER JIBSTAY
OUTER JIBSTAY
THRU HOLE(SHEAVE)
UPPER CLEATS ONDOLPHIN STRIKER
UPPER RIGGINGSTOP
LOWER RIGGINGSTOP
TOPGALLANTMAST
TOPGALLANTSTAY
BULLSEYES &LANYARDS
LOWER CLEATS ONDOLPHIN STRIKER
AT BOW
P
SEIZE
SEIZE
ROYAL STAY
HOLES IN JIBBOOM
JIBBOOM
FORETOPMAST HEAD
P
5. Yard Lifts, Footropes, Stirrups, Slings, & Trusses
These lines and fittings are actually a part ofthe standing rigging but we will defer theinstruction to running rigging, Stage H.These rigs are best installed along with somerunning rigging while working with the yards.
19
FIG. G-10 MAINSTAY
FIG. G-12 MAIN TOPMAST STAY FIG. G-13 MAIN TOPGALLANT STAYSTAIL STAY
FIG. G-14 MAIN TOPGALLANT
STAY
FIG. G-11 MIDDLE STAY
EYE AT MAIN MASTHEADSIMILAR TO FORE STAY
FOREMAST
SEIZE
SEIZE
FOREMAST
SEIZE
BULLSEYESTROP
AROUND MAST
FORE TOPGALLANTMAST
SEIZE
ATUPPER
RIGGINGSTOP
RIGGINGSTOP ON
MAINTOPMAST
EYEBOLTON CAP
SEIZE
SEIZE
RIGGINGSTOP
ON MAINTOPMAST
EYEBOLT ONCROSSTREE
AT CENTERLINE
FORE TOPMAST
EYEBOLT INTRESTLETREE
PORT OR STARBOARD
RIGGING STOPON MAINTOPMAST
EYEBOLTS INDECK
SEIZEMAINMAST
HEAD
EYEBOLT IN CAP
SEIZE
STAY AROUNDMETAL THIMBLE - CAN BE OMITTED
ON MODEL
DOUBLELINE
SEIZE
BULLSEYES& LANYARDS
STROPAROUND
FOREMASTHEAD
STOPCHOCK
20
Before starting on the running rigging, have allyour blocks stropped and/or seized to a line asmuch as possible. Some running lines maypass thru a sheave hole, then require a block. Ifso, try starting at the block and rigging back-ward. Of course, if in such a situation a blockis required on both sides of the sheave you arestuck with having to seize at least one of theblocks on the model.As noted in Stage E, the instructions concentrateon a rig without sails. However, if you intend toinstall sails, either full-up or furled, refer back toStage E for some of the suggested details.
1. Foremast Staysail RiggingThe fore staysail, fore topmast staysail, Innerjib, outer jib, and flying jib are all rigged essen-tially the same. Except for the fore staysail,they have a halliard, downhaul, tack, andsheets which are fitted port and starboard.With sails removed, the sheets and tack aregenerally removed along with the sails. Thehalliard and downhaul can remain and hookedtogether. Place the hook point just above thedownhaul block which is seized to the lowerend of the stay just above the jibboom.The downhauls belay to the cleats on top ofthe bowsprit inboard as shown on the belayingdiagram.The fore staysail does not have a downhaul.Bring the halliard down to the deck and hookit to the bottom of the forestay on one of thebullseye lanyards.Topside, all halliards feed thru a single blockseized at the mast or on the stay as shown onthe plans. The halliards then go to the deckand are belayed to belaying pins on the forefife rail. Refer to the belaying diagram onplan Sheet 2.
Figure H-1 illustrates some of the staysailrigging.
2. Main Staysail RiggingThe main staysail, main topmast staysail, andmain topgallant staysail rig is similar to the fore-mast staysails with the following exceptions:Halliards - The halliards feed thru singleblocks seized to the top of the stays. The belay-ing diagram does not specifically indicatewhere these lines are belayed. Belay the maintopgallant staysail halliard to spare pin 52 onthe port pin rail. Belay the main topmast stay-sail halliard to spare pin 59 on the starboardpin rail. Belay the main staysail halliard tospare pin 45 on the main fife rail.Downhauls - The blocks for the downhaulsare located differently from the fore staysails.However, just hook the halliards to the down-haul just above the blocks. The downhaulsbelay to the fore fife rail.
3. Spanker & Gaff Topsail RiggingWith no sails you must decide how to displaythe gaff; up or down. The appropriate decisionis down and about parallel with the boom.Some modelers like it up to fill the space aft ofthe mast. You can do this but with no vangs onthis particular rig, the gaff would tend to flopsideways. One solution is to glue or pin the jaffjaws to the mast.We will assume the gaff is down and proceed onthat basis. You were advised earlier to add masthoops on the mainmast before it was installed.You should have some mast hoops for thespanker and the gaff topsail on the mast. How-ever, these are not supplied in the kit. Ignorethem or make your own from wood or usesome brass rings.Boom Topping Lift & Boom Sheet - Rig the
topping lift first to position the boom, then thesheet to hold it down. The topping lift is fixedto an eyebolt at the mast cap. Rig the runningtackle below the boom and belay it to the cleaton the starboard side of the boom (Figure H-2).
The lower block for the boom sheet is hookedto an eyebolt on centerline at the deck. The twohauling ends belay to cleats on the bulwark portand starboard (Figure H-3).
Spanker Outhaul - Tie a knot at the outer endof the boom, run the outhaul thru the hole inthe boom and belay it to the cleat on the portside of the boom.
Gaff Throat and Peak Halliards - Rig the hal-liards per the plan. The peak halliard goes downon the starboard side and belays to the starboardpin rail on the bulwark. The throat halliard goesgown on the port side and belays on the fife rail.To prevent the gaff from swinging sideways,loop a line around the aft end of the boom andgaff (Figure H-4).
Gaff Topsail Inhaul & Outhaul - With thesails off hook the inhaul and outhaul togetherjust above the gaff. The outhaul passes thru ahole in the gaff and belays to a cleat on the star-board side of the boom. The inhaul passes thrua block under the gaff jaws, then belays to thefife rail (port side).
Gaff Topsail Halliard, & Downhaul - Hookthe halliard and downhaul somewhere near themainmast top. The downhaul goes to port andbelays to pin 41 on the fife rail. The halliardgoes to starboard and belays to pin 44 on thefife rail.
Flag Halliard - The flag halliard belays to thecavil on the starboard bulwark. However, withthe gaff in the down position the line would bedraping across the deck, so it is best to leave thehalliard off.
STAGE H: RUNNING RIGGING
FIG. H-1 STAYSAIL RIGGING FIG. H-2 BOOM TOPPING LIFT
SINGLE BLOCK
STAY
SEIZEBLOCK
TO STAY
EYEBOLT INCAP
TOPPINGLIFT
HOLE INBOOM
MAINMAST
COLLARAROUND BOOM
CLEAT(S)
BELAY
STOP CHOCKP/S
HALLIARD
HOOKTOGETHER
DOWNHAUL
21
4. Fore Course Yard RiggingFootropes & Stirrups - Remember these areblack standing rigging lines. Beeswax thefootropes heavily so you can droop them into anatural hanging curve and they will stay inplace (Figure H-5). Sling & Truss - The course yard has no halliardor parrel, but a fixed sling and truss since theyard is not hoisted like other yards. The slingfitting band and truss fittings should already beon the yard and mast. When fixing the yard tothe mast, connect the truss and add the chainsling (Figure H-6). Lifts - The lifts are port and starboard. Seize theline around the shoulder at the end of the yard,pass thru a block at the mast cap and down to apurchase just above the deck. The purchase isbelayed to the fife rail.Buntlines & Leechlines - These port and star-board lines pass thru bullseyes on the yard andblocks on the fore top cross-trees, then proceeddown and are belayed to the bulwark pin rail.Without sails the lines could be omitted. How-ever, for added detail knot the lines under theyard blocks, or connect the ends of the leechlineand buntline together (Figure H-7). Reef Tackle - This port and starboard rig couldalso be omitted on the model without sails, orthe rig installed and the block that would beattached to the sail just pulled up under theblock on the yard. The more lines you add tothe model certainly enhances the detail. Sheets, Tacks, & Clew Garnets - All lines portand starboard. With sails off, hook the sheet,tack, and clew garnet together. Locate the hookpoint just below clew garnet block on the yard(Figure H-8 ). Unlike the fore and aft head sailswhere the sheets would clutter the deck, thelines for the course sail hang nicely in place andall belay at the rail. Braces - Add the port and starboard braceblocks and their leader at the ends of the yard.The brace standing end and the lead block are
seized to the main shrouds (Figure H-9).
5. Fore Lower Topsail Yard RiggingFootropes & Stirrups - The footropes & stir-rups are rigged essentially the same as for thecourse yard.Truss - Like the course yard, the lower top-sail yard is fixed by the truss fitting but thereis no sling.Lifts - The lifts are fixed lines and should beblack. The upper end can be set to an eyebolton the side of the trestletree port and starboard.The lower end is seized to the yard but inboardof the shoulder at the end of the yard.Buntlines - Rig similar to the course yard,knotted under the yard bullseye. The blockabove the yard is hanging at the end of a linewhich is attached to the shroud above. Thebuntline belays to the bulwark pin rail. Clew lines and Sheets - Hook the clew lines andsheets together just below the clew line block onthe yard. The sheet passes thru a hole in the endof the course yard, thru a block under the courseyard, then down to a purchase tackle on thedeck. The clew line has no purchase and goesdirectly to the bulwark pin rail (Figure H-10).
FIG. H-3 BOOM SHEET
FIG. H-5 FORE COURSE YARD FOOTROPES
FIG. H-6 FORE YARDSLING & TRUSS
FIG. H-4 GAFF HALLIARDSMETALBAND
EYEBOLTS
BANDS
SEIZE
BELAY TOSTBD
PIN RAIL
BELAYTO PORT FIFE RAIL
HALLIARDCRANEFITTING
THROATHALLIARD
EYEBOLT
PEAK HALLIARD
TRIPLEBLOCK
DOUBLE BLOCK
BELAY TO CLEAT
ON BULWARKSTANCHION
P/S
TOSTARBOARD
CLEATEYEBOLT ON
STERN CENTERLINESTANCHION
SEIZE TOJACKSTAY
JACKSTAY
FORWARD
EYESPLICEFOOTROPE
CLEAT ONAFT SIDE
OF MASTHEAD
TRUSS
NOTE: CHAIN ISLEATHEREDFROM THIS
POINT ABOVE
CHAINSLING
OPTIONAL STIRRUPIF A ROPE JACKSTAY
IS USED
STIRRUP
22
Braces - The braces are rigged similar to thecourse yard except the standing end of the braceis seized to the mainstay instead of the shroudsas in the case of the course yard.
6. Fore Upper Topsail Yard RiggingFootropes & Stirrups - The footropes & stirrups are rigged essentially the same as for the lower topsail yard.Parrel - The upper topsail yard moves up anddown. To hold the yard against the mast aparrel is used. You should already have theparrel fittings on the yard. You need to addthe parrel line or strap to hold the yard againstthe mast (Figure H-11).Lifts - The lifts are fixed lines and should beblack. The upper end can be set to an eyebolton the side of the topmast cap port and star-board. The lower end is seized to the yardshoulder at the end of the yard.Halliard - The halliard (for lifting the uppertopsail yard) passes thru a sheave hole in themast, then down to a tackle set to an eyebolt inthe deck at the starboard rail.Buntline and Downhaul - This particular saildoes not have a buntline, but it has a downhaulat the end of the yard port and starboard. Withno sail, the yard is down on top of the lowertopsail yard. The downhaul is seized to theshoulder of the lower topsail yard, passes thru ablock at the end of the upper topsail yard, thruanother block near the center of the yard, thendown to belay at the fife rail.Sheets - This sail has no sheets. If the sail wereinstalled, the foot would be laced along thejackstays of the lower topsail yard. Braces - The braces are rigged similar to thelower topsail yard.
7. Fore Topgallant & Royal Yard Rigging
Footropes, Stirrups, Lifts, Parrels, & Hal-liards - Rigging is similar to the upper topsailyard except the topgallant halliard goes to atackle on the port side and the royal to the starboard side. Buntlines & Leech Lines - The topgallant hasa buntline and leech line that go into a com-mon line which passes thru a block at thetopgallant hounds. The royal has only buntlinesbut the port and starboard lines connect to asingle line. All these lines would be cumber-some to add on the model without sails, so it isrecommended they be omitted. Sheets and Clew Lines - Rig these lines similarto the lower topsail yard, hooking the two linestogether just above the yard. Braces - The port and starboard braces are sin-gle lines seized to the shoulder at ends of theyards and pass thru blocks at the main topmast.They belay to the fife rail.
8. Final Touches
After all the rigging is in place, re-check every
line, and make sure all the seizings are sound. If
necessary, add another touch of CA glue to seiz-
ings. Check to see if there are any shiny places
on the rigging. If necessary, tough-up standing
rigging with black paint, or black liquid shoe
polish. For running rigging, use a tan stain, or
brown liquid shoe polish.
Check to see if any of the painted wooden parts
were marred or scratched during the rigging
process and touch-up as necessary.
FIG. H-7 BUNTLINES & LEECHLINES
FIG. H-8 FORE COURSE
CLEW GARNETS,
SHEETS & TACKS
BULWARKAMIDSHIPS
BULWARKFORWARD
FORE TOPCROSS TREES
BUNTLINE
LEECHLINE
KNOT
BULLSEYESON YARD
SHEET P/S
CL
EYEBOLT HOLE
CLEW GARNET P/S
HOOK TOGETHER
TACK P/S
THRU RING ON CATHEAD - BELAY
TO CAVIL INBOARD
BELAY TOCAVIL INBOARD
TOPIN RAIL& BELAY
FIG. H-11 UPPER TOPSAILYARD PARREL
PARREL HINGEDSTRAP
OPTION - ROPEWITH BEADS
CHOCK
23
1. Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship & Ocean Carrier
by Harold A. Underhill. Brown, Son and Ferguson, LTD, 1946. An excellent reference for masting and rigging details in the age of iron fittings.
2. Spars and Rigging From Nautical Routine, 1849
by John M’Leod Murphy. Ship Model Society of Rhode Island, 1933 (Reprinted by Dover Publications 2003). The Ship Model Society of Rhode Island reprinted in a limited edition the section on spars and rigging from Nautical Routine publishedin 1849 by Murphy and Jeffers, past midshipmen, U. S. N. It presents a detailed description of the spars, rigging, sails, and other gear of afull-rigged ship. In addition to his own experience at sea, Murphy consulted the most experienced riggers he could find in order to ensurethat the book represented the state of the art in 1849. The result is a treatise of great value and reliability to anyone interested in under-standing the rigging of a sailing vessel.
3. The Neophyte Shipmodeller’s Jackstay
by George F. Campbell. Model Shipways, 1962.Excellent visuals and background information on building models from kits. Good detail on hulls and rigging. Great for beginners.
4. How to Built First-Rate Ship Models From Kits
by Ben Lankford. Model Expo, 2002. Comprehensive reference covers construction methods for solid hull, plank-on-bulkhead, and plank-on-frame kits. The book is profusely illustrated and includes glossary of nautical terms.
Note: Many books are available through Model Shipways website, www.modelexpo-online.com.
Please check current catalog or website for availability.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
FIG. H-9 FORE YARD BRACES
FIG. H-10 FORE LOWER TOPSAIL YARD
CLEWLINES & SHEETS
FOREMOST MAINMAST SHROUD
BELAY ATPIN RAIL
BRACE PENDANT
YARD
LOWERTOPSAIL
YARD
TO PINRAIL & BELAY
LOWERYARD
DECK
EYEBOLT
SHEET TACKLE AT DECK - BELAY TO FIFE RAIL
HOOK TOGETHER
CLEWLINE
SHEET
MODEL SHIPWAYSSold & distributed by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc.
3850 N. 29th Terrace, Hollywood, FL 33020Toll-Free 800-222-3876 Monday - Friday 9-5 ET • Fax 800-742-7171
SAVE TIME & MONEY...ORDER DIRECTLY FROM OUR WEBSITE!www.modelexpo-online.com
Other Fine Kits from Model Shipways
WILLIE L. BENNETTModel Shipways Kit No. MS2032
PHANTOMModel Shipways Kit No. MS2027
EMMA C. BERRYModel Shipways Kit No. MS2150
NIAGARAModel Shipways Kit No. MS2240
FLYING FISHModel Shipways Kit No. MS2018
CHARLES MORGANModel Shipways Kit No. MS2140
USS CONSTITUTIONModel Shipways Kit No. MS2040
PRINCE DE NEUFCHATELModel Shipways Kit No. MS2110
PRIDE OF BALTIMORE IIModel Shipways Kit No. MS2120
RATTLESNAKEModel Shipways Kit No. MS2028
BLUENOSEModel Shipways Kit No. MS2130
BENJAMIN LATHAMModel Shipways Kit No. MS2109
SULTANAModel Shipways Kit No. MS2016
OUR GUARANTEEIf less than delighted, return your purchase within 30 days in original condition.
BEDFORD WHALEBOATModel Shipways Kit No. MS2645