Model Shipways Kit No. 2003

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. • Hollywood, FloridaSold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. • www.modelexpo-online.com

Technical CharacteristicsScale: 5/32" = 1 ft.Overall Length: 24"; Hull Length: 15-1/2"Width: 9" (width of lower yard); Hull Beam: 4"Height: 18" (top of main mast to bottom of keel)

MODELING THE

DAPPER TOMF BALTIMORE CLIPPER PRIVATEER, 1815 F

MODELING THE

DAPPER TOMF BALTIMORE CLIPPER PRIVATEER, 1815 F

Instructions prepared by Ben LankfordModel prototype by Bob Werner ©2006, Model Shipways, Inc.

HISTORY

2

HISTORYDuring the 19th Century, many Baltimore Clippers were granted privateering licenses by the US Government. Sinceall commerce was subject to the legalized banditry of privateers, only a fast, well handled ship could be reasonably sureof reaching its destination. Privateers like the Dapper Tom depended on their sailing abilities and fire power to prey onforeign shipping and to escape the British men-of-war patrolling the high seas.

The Dapper Tom, an 8-gun topsail schooner, is to great extent, typical of Baltimore Privateers of a stormy decade whenships were at the mercy of any stranger, and even armed ships were safe only in proportion to their nimbleness.

The plans of the Dapper Tom were developed in 1954 by John Shedd, the original owner of Model Shipways in Bogota,New Jersey. The model is a reconstruction of a typical Baltimore Clipper. The model’s hull is based on Marestier’s draw-ing No. 6 as taken off that vessel in stocks in 1814. Rigging is based on contemporary practice. Those wishing to studythe development of this type should consult Howard I. Chapelle’s book The Baltimore Clipper (See Bibliography).

While the plans are reproduced from the original, the kit has been updated and reissued by Model Shipways. Thesenew instructions are provided along with a more complete set of supplies for building the model. The fittings are nowcast from lead-free Britannia metal and some laser-cut wood parts added.

Brief History.................................................................2

Before You Begin ..........................................................3

How To Work With The Plans & Parts ........................3

What You’ll Need to Start Construction .......................3

Painting & Staining......................................................4

Stage A: Shaping the Pre-Carved Hull

1. Using the Templates .................................................4

2. Carving the Hull ......................................................5

3. Carving the Bulwarks ...............................................5

4. Carving the Transom & Counter..............................5

Stage B: Completing the Basic Hull Structures

1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost .......................6

2. Installing the Rudder ................................................6

3. Drilling the Larger Holes in the Hull........................6

4. Holes to be Drilled as Work Progresses .....................6

5. Planking the Deck & Installing the Waterways.........6

6. Creating the Ladder Way Hole .................................7

7. Cutting Out the Gunports & Transom Ports ............7

8. Installing Bulwark Stanchions & Cap Rail................7

9. Installing the Outboard Waterway Strip & Wale.......7

Stage C: Mounting the Hull

1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals.........................7

2. Launching Ways .......................................................7

Stage D: Adding the Hull Details

1. General Notes...........................................................8

2. Transom Rail, Mouldings, Counter Detail,

& Main Sheet Traveler Rod ..........................................8

3. Catheads, Bulwark Sheaves, Cavils, Hawse Pipes, &

Gunport Lids ...............................................................8

4. Deck Bitts, Fife Rails, Pin Rails, Capstan, Galley Funnel, Hatches, Ladder Way, Pumps, & Skylight ......9

5. Cannon ....................................................................9

6. Channels & Side Ladder...........................................9

Stage E: Mast & Spar Construction

1. Shaping the Masts ..................................................10

2. Assembling the Masts .............................................10

3. Shaping & Detailing the Spars................................11

4. Installing the Mast & Bowsprit Assemblies........11-12

Stage F: General Rigging Information................12-14

Stage G: Standing Rigging ..................................14-16

Stage H: Running Rigging ..................................17-22

Bibliography .............................................................22

Modeler’s Log............................................................23

Construction Stages & Table of ContentsConstruction Stages & Table of Contents

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Before You Begin

The Dapper Tom is an interesting model forbeginner and expert alike. This kit contains asolid hull which has been machine-carvedfrom select, medium-hard, fine-grained bass-wood. This style hull provides a quick andeasy lesson in the basic shapes and propor-tions of hull design and helps to developwoodworking skills. Although the exterior ofthe hull has been carved close to the hulllines as shown on the plans, further carvingis necessary for reasons of accuracy. (Carvingand finishing the hull to its final shape arediscussed in the instructions.)

Constructing the Dapper Tom model alsowill provide you with the opportunity todevelop some scratch-building techniques.During construction, you may want to sub-stitute some of the kit fittings with your owncreations. By all means try them, especially ifyou think you can improve the model.

If you are a beginner, completing this modelwill prepare you for a more complicatedmodel such as the Pride of Baltimore II,which is outfitted with a plank-on-bulkheadhull. In the meantime, happy modeling!

Working with the Plans & Parts

Before starting model construction, examinethe kit and study the plans carefully. Familiar-izing yourself with the kit will serve twopurposes. First, it will let you determine thatall parts have been supplied as listed. And sec-ond, you’ll be surprised at how quicklyhandling the parts allows you to better under-stand the kit requirements. Try to visualizehow every part will look on the completedmodel. Also, determine ahead of time whatmust be done first. The instructions will helpyou in this regard, but a thorough knowledgeof the plans at the outset is essential.

It is also suggested that all small fittings andhardware be sorted into labeled boxes orcompartments to avoid loss during thebuilding process.

Two Plan Sheets and One Template Sheetare provided:

1. Hull Templates - 1 sheet of heavy stock

2. Hull Plan-Sheet 1

3. Masting and Rigging Plan-Sheet 2

In addition, a set of sketches appearsthroughout the instruction manual to furtherillustrate the various stages of construction.

The Dapper Tom kit is manufactured to ascale of 5/32” = 1’0” and matches the plans.Consequently, most of the dimensions canbe lifted directly from the plans using a “tickstrip”. This is simply a piece of paper (a rollof calculator paper tape works very well).Mark a dimension from the plan onto the

tick strip and transfer it to the model.

The Dapper Tom model is designed to be dis-played without sails. Much of thereconstructed rigging was developed usingreferences from well-known books, such asthose by David Steel and Darcey Lever. (Abibliography of references appears at the endof this manual.) These texts provide many ofthe details, but lack some of the unique char-acteristics of the schooner rig. Consequently,in designing the plans, additional references,along with contemporary paintings andetchings also were used. Even so, manydesign decisions were made using good com-mon sense: “If I were designing back then,what would I have done?” There is alwaysdoubt; no one can say for sure how the shipwas actually rigged.

The Dapper Tom kit is supplied with Britan-nia metal, brass, as well as wooden fittings toeliminate problems in making such partsfrom scratch. Because the Britannia metalscontain no lead, there are no possible corro-sion problems. Many of these fittings willrequire final finishing before installing onthe model.

Before painting the cast-metal fittings, cleanthem up by removing all the mold-joint flash.To do this, use a No. 11 hobby blade to cutthe flash, then sand with fine sandpaper. It isalso suggested that you clean the fittings thor-oughly with warm soapy water before applyingprimer. Make sure they are rinsed thoroughlyand allowed to dry before painting.

What You’ll Need To Start

The following tools and supplies are recom-mended for the construction process.Modelers who have built before may havetheir own favorites. Almost all are availablefrom Model Expo, a division of Model Ship-ways, Inc., at www.modelexpo-online.com.

A. Knives and Saws1. Hobby knife with No.11 blades2. Razor saw (especially for cutting gun-

ports out of the bulwarks)

B. FilesSet of needle files

C. Sharpening StoneNecessary to keep the tools razor sharp

D. Clamps1. A few small C-clamps2. Several wooden clothespins3. Rubber bands

E. Tool SetA small carving tool set and chisels for

shaping the hull.

F. Boring Tools1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #802. Larger bits for mast holes, bowsprit

hole, and hawse pipe holes3. Pin vise

G. Miscellaneous1. Tack hammer2. Tweezers (a few)3. Small fine pointed scissors4. Miniature pliers

a. Small round b. Flat nose5. Bench vise (small)6. Soldering iron

a. Solder b. Flux

Note: soldering is not essential for this par-ticular model if the kit fittings are used.

7. Sewing thread (for seizings; other rigging is supplied)

8. Beeswax block (for treating rigging lines)9. 1/2” or 3/4” masking tape10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and

strip metal)

H. SandpaperFine and medium grit garnet or aluminumoxide sandpaper (#100 to #220 grit)

I. Finishing:1. Paint brushes

a. Fine point for detailsb. 1/4” to 1/2” flat square for hull

J. Supplies: (will be covered in detail inthe Painting & Staining section andthroughout instructions)

1. Paints2. Primer3. Stain and Varnish4. White or Carpenter’s (yellow)

Wood Glue5. Five-minute epoxy6. Contact or model airplane acetate

cement7. Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue

Note about glues: White or Carpenter’s yel-low wood glue will suffice for most of themodel. Five-minute epoxy provides extrastrength for gluing fittings. Because white oryellow glues will tend to warp the scored-sheet decking, use a contact cement ormodel airplane type acetate cement. Cyano-acrylate (Super) glue, called CA glue forshort, such as Zap is excellent for quickadhesion and is ideal for dabbing onto a rig-ging seizing to hold it in place. The best CAglue for most applications is a medium vis-cosity gap-filling type. The watery-thin typeis recommended only to fill a narrow crackby capillary action. For CA glue, you canalso purchase a liquid accelerator such as ZipKicker. A spray or drop of the acceleratorwill instantly cure the glue. This is handy toeliminate clamping parts for long periods oftime and waiting for glue to harden.

Use CA glue with caution. You can easilyglue your fingers or eyelids together and thefumes can burn your eyes. It would be agood idea to have a bottle of CA debonderon hand. This product will dissolve the glueif you do get it on your body.

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Painting and StainingIt may seem strange to begin an instructionmanual with directions for applying the fin-ishes to the model. Not so! Much time andeffort can be saved and a more professionalresult can be obtained if the finishing processis carried out during construction. Propertiming in application of finishes and the useof masking tape to define painted edgesshould eliminate unsightly glue marks andsplotchy stained surfaces. In the end, follow-ing these general suggestions will be to youradvantage.

Paint Colors:At the time of Dapper Tom, 1815, colorswere largely determined by economics. Reds,yellows, and grays were cheap mineral colors,hence more common. White lead was com-ing into use but was still expensive.

A suggested color scheme for Dapper Tomis as follows:

Hull Above the Waterline - Black with acream stripe at gunport level. Painting theWale strip cream will do the trick.

Hull Bottom Below Waterline - PaleGreen to represent weathered copper. A thinwash of black over the green will enhancethe weathered look but do not overpowerthe green.

Deck Planking - Natural or a light tan stainsuch as pine.

Inside Bulwarks (including the stan-chions) , Waterways, Top of Skylight,Hatch Gratings, Transom Cap Rail & SideMouldings, Inside Transom & Counter -Light Buff

Hatch Coamings, Galley Funnel Coam-ing, Pin Rails, Bitts, Channels, Catheads,

Skylight Sides, Gun Carriages, AnchorStock - Dark Reddish Brown (preferred) orWhite (second choice)

Stern Decoration - Gold stars.

Masts & Spars - Pine Stain.

Mast Doublings, Tops, Rudder Tiller,Galley Funnel, Gaff Jaws, Bowsprit Cap,Bulwark Cap Rails, & Gun CarriageWheels - Black.

Cannon Barrels & Anchors - Iron Black.

Capstan - Black top & Dark ReddishBrown barrel.

Paint:Use a flat-finish paint. Model Shipways lineof acrylic paints are available in the recom-mended colors. You may also purchase analready assembled Dapper Tom paint kit from Model Expo at www.modelexpo-online.com.

Primer:Use a grey primer (one is provided with theModel Expo Dapper Tom paint kit.) The greycolor will highlight sanding scratches andother defects better than white primer. Primeall woodwork to be painted, and prime allmetal fittings. Lightly sand the primeditems. Use a spackling compound such asPic-n-Patch brand to fill any scratches anddefects, then re-prime.

Stains & Finishes:For natural finished wood, use a protectivecoating after staining, such as low-sheenpolyurethane varnish. You can also use anoil-resin mix like the ones sold by ModelExpo or Minwax.

For the deck and spars, Model Expo stain orMinwax can be used. These are a combina-tion stain-finish that will provide a light tone

to the wood. The deck plank scores can bedarkened with any dark color to simulatecaulking. It would be best to first varnish thesurface, wiping the dark color into thescores, the wipe the surface of the planksclean. You can also run a sharp No. 2 pencildown each groove, then varnish.

The staining of all wood parts should bedone before gluing, especially if any CA glueis used. Glue will leave ugly white areas inthe finish, and the stain will not penetratethese areas.

Brushes & Procedures:Use good quality soft sable or synthetic hairartist’s brushes. A small pointed brush isgood for details. For the main hull areas, usea 1/4" to 1/2" flat brush.

Before painting, clean the model with a tackrag. Apply your paint in smooth and evenstrokes, overlapping them as you go. Thinthe paint enough to eliminate brush strokes,but not run. You will need three or fourcoats of the light colors to cover the greyprimer and maybe only two coats of thedark. Check your finish between coats andsand and add spackle as necessary to get ridof any blemishes.

You will be told how to mark the waterlinelocation in Stage A. At this line, and any-where else two colors meet, use maskingtape. Electrician’s black plastic tape or any ofthe hobby tapes made of plastic film areideal. They leave a nice edge and are notoverly sticky. Do not use drafting tape unlessit is Chart-pak brand. The edges are some-what wrinkled and paint may run underthem. A good trick; seal the edge of maskingtape with a clear flat finish and let dry thor-oughly. This will really prevent paint fromrunning under the tape.

STAGE A: SHAPING THE PRE-CARVED HULLSanding alone will not shape the hullenough to precisely match the hull lines.Some carving is required, especially at therail, keel, bow, & stern areas.

1. Using the TemplatesFor exact carving to hull lines, a template isrequired for the hull profile and each of thenine stations (Figure A-1). You will find atemplate set printed on heavy stock paper inthe kit. Cut the templates out carefully witha No. 11 hobby knife. Do not use scissors!You will want a nice smooth edge.Option-The profile template can be cut atStation 5 to make fitting easier. Just makesure you have the keel straight and don’tbuild in a knuckle. Likewise, the station

templates can be cut at the bulwark. If youdo this, mark the width of the hull at each

station on top of the bulwark beforehandand carve to these marks.

FIG. A-1 KIT TEMPLATES

OPTIONAL CUT(SEE TEXT)

STATIONPROFILE

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2. Carving the HullCut a wooden block from scrap to about 3”x 1” x 3/4” thick. Screw the block to thedeck so the model can be held in a benchvise for carving. First, check the accuracy ofthe profile and correct it as necessary, using along sanding block (Figure A-2).

Next, mark the centerline, rabbet lines(where hull meets keel) and station lines onthe model (Figure A-3). Place the stationmarks on the center of the hull bottom andon top of the rails so the marks won’t becarved off as you work. Also, add thebreadth marks on the rail if you elected theoption noted above.

Start carving approximately at Station 5(maximum beam) and progress forward,then aft, using chisels and gouges to cutaway excess wood. Avoid carving against thegrain by shifting forward or aft of Station 5until you find a spot where you are goingwith the grain. Basswood carves easily, soyou probably won’t have much problem withthe grain.

Carve very slowly and take off a little woodat a time. Fit the templates as you go. Carveuntil the template fits reasonably well, thenuse sandpaper to obtain the final shape. Atfirst the templates will not fit very well. Youmust compare the template to the hull andvisually decide where to remove wood. Cut alittle off, then re-check the template.

Finally, draw a few horizontal pencil lines(like waterlines) and the vertical station lineson the hull. Use these to visually check theshape of the hull. Hold the hull at variousangles, and look to see if the pencil lines arefair (even). If you have any unfairness, dipsor bump, they can usually be found with thisvisual check. You can also use a stiff stick ofwood, about 1/8” square, and lay it on thehull at various locations. Dips in the hullwill show up under the stick.

Sand the stern transom with a sanding block.

3. Carving the BulwarksMake yourself a temporary cradle to securethe hull while carving (Figure A-4). Thiscradle also will serve to hold the model formost of the remaining work. Make the cra-dle so the model sits in it with its waterlineparallel to the baseboard and table. Thetops of the cradle should be below thewaterline. Later, when you are ready topaint, attach a pencil on top of a woodenblock and slide it along the table to markthe location of the waterline.

The machine-carved hull has bulwarks thick-er than scale so they won’t break while insidethe kit box. The upper surface is cut to theunderside of the cap rail. After you carve theoutside of the hull, the bulwarks will bethinner. If more than 1/16" thick, it will benecessary to carve the inside of the bulwarks.

This is the most difficult part, so work slow-ly as you carve (Figure A-5). After carving,sand the surfaces smooth. If you happen tohave or want to buy a powered rotary toollike a Dremel, there are many cutters avail-able to quickly reduce the bulwark thickness.

Note that bulwark stanchions go onto theinboard side of the bulwarks. Together withthe bulwark (planks on a real ship) theymust fit under the cap rail which is only5/32" wide. If the stanchions will not fit,make them a little thinner, or better, sandthe inside of the bulwark a little more at thetop. You can then taper the inside down tothe deck without reducing the thickness atthe deck. You won’t really see that the bot-tom is thicker than the top. Of course, youcould use a wider cap rail but don’t get it toowide or the scale will not look proper. FigureA-6 is a cross section through the bulwarkshowing the options.

4. Carving the Inside of the Transom & Counter

The top of the transom should be about3/32" thick. If necessary, carve the transomdown on the inside, tapering to the counterline. Like the bulwarks, a rail sits atop thetransom. The counter is that portion of thestern from the transom down to the deck.This should be a slightly curved shape. SeeFigure A-7 for a transom and counter view.The sketch also shows the openings that willbe cut later.

Transom Option - On a machine-carvedhull the wood grain at the stern is in thewrong direction. If you are worried that thetransom might split, you could add a thinbasswood sheet on the outside to strengthenit. You could even cut out the transom com-pletely and add a sheet transom.

At this stage, the basic hull is fully carved.Sand the entire hull with #220 grit sandpa-per for the final smoothing. Be careful not toround the upper edges of the rail or at therabbet. These should be sharp corners.

FIG. A-2 CORRECTING THE PROFILE

FIG. A-3 MARKING THE HULL

FIG. A-4 CRADLE

FIG. A-6 BULWARK SECTIONS FIG. A-7 TRANSOM & COUNTER

FIG. A-5 CARVING BULWARKS

TEMPLATE

MARK STATIONS

MARK RABBET

STA 4STA 7

1/4"

3/8" PLYWOOD

CAP RAIL CLTRANSOM

SLIGHTCURVE

BULWARK

COUNTER

DECK

STANCHION

UNIFORM THICKNESS THICKER AT DECK

CUT SLOTFOR KEEL

MARK CENTER LINE

FIT TEMPLATES

USE GOUGE FIRST SMOOTH WITH CHISEL

MARK STATIONS ON TOP OF RAIL

CROSS SECTIONRAIL

CLRABBET

WOOD TO BE CUT AWAY

SANDING BLOCK

BENCH VISE BLOCK

STATION5

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1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost

The keel, stem & sternpost are laser-cutparts. Taper the stem and install the parts(Figure B-1). Note that the hull plan shows ascarf joint between the keel and stem with astep in the middle of the joint. This step hasbeen eliminated in the laser-cut part. Also,the stem is shown to be made up of twopieces. A one piece stem is provided instead. Use pins or dowels to position the partsbefore gluing. Scrape off any glue squeeze-out. Fill any gaps remaining at the gluejoints with wood filler and then sand.

2. Installing the RudderThe rudder, a laser-cut part, can be shapedand installed now or later. The rudder istapered and has a round front edge.The pin-tles & gudgeons are made from brass strip orby using paper strips. See Figure B-2 for con-struction.

3. Drilling the Larger Holes in the Hull

Before going any further with the details,drill all the large holes in the hull. Thesewould include a hole for the rudder post &bowsprit, two mast holes and two pilot holesin the keel for screws or pins for mountingthe model on a display base. The rudder posthole will need to be filed to an oval shape asshown on the plans. For the mast holes,make a drill guide jig so you will drill at thecorrect mast rake angle (see Figure B-3 forsome ideas).

4. Holes to be Drilled as Work Progresses

There will be other holes to drill as the workprogresses. For example, the hawse holes forthe anchor cable are drilled through the bul-warks forward. Holes will be required in thedeck for the galley funnel, the capstan, bitts,and the pumps. You will also need to drillsmall holes for inserting eyebolts that holdblocks for the rigging and gun lines, holesfor belaying pins, and holes for pinning vari-ous parts in place.

5. Planking the Deck & Installing the Waterway

The deck planking supplied in the kit is ascored basswood sheet. To represent caulkedseams darken the scored lines. The Paintingand Staining Section of these instructionsprovide some suggestions how to do this. Tofit the sheet, first make a paper pattern of thedeck area. Make sure the scored plank linesare parallel to the centerline when the sheetis installed. Glue the sheeting down withcontact cement or airplane-type cement (seegluing notes in the Painting and StainingSection). Before you glue the deck consider

the options as follows: Individual Planks -You could lay individualplanks instead of the scored sheeting, butwood for this is not included in the kit. Ifyou elect to do this, paint one edge of eachplank black or brown. When the planks areglued together, the color will show up ascaulking between planks.Waterway -Along the inside of the bulwarks,flush with the deck or just slightly thicker,there is a waterway-nibbing strake. If youwant to add this detail, cut the edge off thescored deck, the width of the waterway, andglue the waterway to the edge of the sheet.Figure B-4 illustrates the procedure. You

STAGE B: COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES

FIG. B-1 KEEL, STEM & STERNPOST

PIN OR DOWEL ALL PARTS

GLUE

TAPER THESTEM

1/8" 1/16"

LASER-CUTPARTS

GLUE

FIG. B-2 RUDDER

PINTLE & GUDGEON DETAIL

1/16"

ROUND THE EDGES

CUT TENON

LASER-CUTRUDDER

CUTHOLE

PINTLE

BRASSCHAINSTRAP

GUDGEON

TILLER (LASER-CUT)

1/8"

TAPER & ROUND FRONT

RUDDER(TOP VIEW)

STERNPOST(TOP VIEW)

GUDGEON

BRASSSTRIP

PIN IS OPTIONAL

PINTLE

SOLDEROR

EPOXY PIN

FIG. B-3 JIG FOR MAST HOLES

FIG. B-4 WATERWAY NIBBING STRAKE

FIG. B-6 WATERWAY STRIP & WALE

MAST RAKE ANGLE

WOOD BLOCK DRILLGUIDE

ANGLEDHOLE

ANGLEDHOLE

WATERWAY

CUT IF INCLUDINGTHE NIBS

WATERWAYSTRIP

WATERWAYINBOARD

WALE

CUT-OFF TOADD WATERWAY

TO EDGE

GLUE ONTOP OR EDGE

SCORED DECKING

DRILLGUIDE

WITH "V"SLOT

7

could also install a waterway without cuttingthe nibs. Another way, the scored deckingcould go into the bulwark, and a thin water-way glued on top of the decking.

6. Creating the Ladder Way HoleThe ladder way shown on the plan indicatesan open hatch with a ladder. If you want todo this you must cut a hole into the deck. Ifnot, the hatch can have covers. The detailswill be discussed in Stage D.

7. Cutting Out the Gunports & Transom Ports

Cut the gunport openings and transom portsaccording to plan. Be careful cutting thegunports. After cutting, the remaining bul-wark will be fragile until the cap rail isinstalled. Use a fine razor saw blade to cutthe vertical sides and then cut the bottomwith a hobby knife.

8. Installing Bulwark Stanchions & Cap Rail

With the bulwarks in a fragile state, now isthe time to install the cap rail and bulwarkstanchions. Install the stanchions first, thenthe cap rail. While you are at it, up forward,add the inboard side of the stem, knight-heads and hawse timbers, and drill the hawseholes. Also, add the doublers in way of thesheet and tack sheave holes, and the bow

fairlead for rigging lines atop the rail. Drillthe fairlead holes before installation. FigureB-5 should clarify the details.

9. Installing the Outboard Waterway Strip & Wale

The waterway on the deck of the real ship isa wide plank that protrudes outboard justpast the normal hull planking. For our solidwood hull you need to add a 1/6" square

strip outside the hull port and starboard forthe full length to simulate the outboard edgeof the waterway. Below the waterway strips add a 1/32" thickwale strip. The profile view on the plansshow the wale shape. Note that it is widerforward and tapers to a more narrow plankaft. See Figure B-6 for a cross section view inway of the waterway and wale.

Before proceeding with additional work it isbest to mount the hull. This step will helpprevent details from becoming damaged dur-ing handling and will allow you to make anyalignments that require a true waterline. Prop-er mounting of the hull is very important andwill allow the accurate building and aligningof the remainder of the model. The kit doesnot include any parts for mounting. However,the following suggestions are provided.1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals -A common mounting for ship models is awooden baseboard with two wooden or brasspedestals. For a homemade board, a nicelooking hardwood such as cherry, walnut,and maple would be ideal. You can roundthe top edges of the baseboard, or cut a sim-ple chamfer. If you own a router, or canborrow one, you will be able to cut a nicefancy edge on the baseboard. Stain the base,if necessary, and give it a few coats of varnishor finish like Minwax.The pedestals could be wood or brass. Onepedestal needs to be longer than the otherbecause you should have the model mountedwith the waterline parallel to the baseboard.If you decide on this type mounting youshould already have drilled pilot holes for thescrews as noted earlier. For Dapper Tom, thepedestals should be located near station 4and 7. If something went awry and thewaterline is not level, you can add a brass

shim under one pedestal to correct it.

2. Launching Ways - A second type ofmounting that can be employed is thelaunching ways, which are most suitable formodels without sails. Figure C-1 illustrates asimple design. Drilling of the keel is stillrequired to insert rods that anchor the model

to the ways. The launching ways should bemounted on a baseboard or could be placedin a diorama comprised of boatyard groundactivity.

Baseboards, pedestals, and launching waykits are available from Model Expo(www.modelexpo-online.com).

STAGE C: MOUNTING THE HULL

FIG. B-5 BULWARK DETAILS

FIG. C-1 LAUNCHING WAY MOUNTING

ALIGNMENTPIN OR NAIL

LASER-CUT RAILFORWARD

TYPICAL BULWARKSTANCHION

GUNPORTFRAMING

DOUBLER IN WAY OF SHEET& TACK SHEAVE

HOLES

AFT SIDE OFSTEM PIECE

KNIGHTHEAD

HAWSETIMBER

LASER-CUT RAIL RIGGING FAIRLEAD

BLOCK

PINRAIL

CL

CL

CL

CL

BOWSPRITHOLE

STRIPWOOD RAIL AFT

WATERLINEPARALLEL TO BASE METAL ROD

OR WOODDOWELIN KEEL

BASE

KEEL BLOCKS

CROSS TIMBERSSUPPORTRAIL

SIDE SUPPORTSTRUTS

1/4" SQUAREWOOD FOR

1/8" - 1/4" SCALEMODELS

SUPPORT BLOCKSHEIGHT SET SO MODEL WATERLINE

WILL BE PARALLEL TO BASE

SIDE SUPPORTSTRUTS P/S

ABOUT1.5 X BEAM

OF HULL

8

STAGE D: ADDING THE HULL DETAILS

1. General NotesDon’t forget to file off any flash on Britanniametal fittings, clean the fittings and then primethem with grey primer before final paint. Locate deck fittings and place them intoposition. This can be done by measuringfrom mast holes, station lines and centerline(tick off from plans). Next, mark their posi-tions by drilling holes into the deck andinserting locating pins or dowels which willbe inserted into holes that you will need todrill into each deck piece. Before permanentinstallation, paint them according to theDapper Tom color scheme or your choice ofcolor. Having been pre-fitted, and with thepins in place, they will be easy to put backwhere they belong.If wooden parts are not painted prior toinstallation, at least make sure you have thepart sanded and ready for painting in place.Use as little glue as necessary on parts. Watchout for that glue squeeze-out. It’s hard toremove if left to harden.

2. Transom Rail, Mouldings, Counter Detail, & Main Boom Sheet Rod

The transom rail (or taffrail as it is generallycalled) curves both fore and aft and across thetop and sides of the transom so it is best cutout of a wider piece of stripwood. Some steambending may be required at the side corners,or the side rail portion can be cut to shapefrom a wider block. The transom extends beyond the sides of thehull. This extension is not a part of themachine-carved hull, so you first must addthe extension before installing the rails.On the sides, the rail meets a fashion piecethat curves down to the waterway strip andwale. Along the bottom of the transom out-board, add a moulding strip. Figure D-1should clear up this often confusing area.Inboard on the counter, there is a a smallblock to be added on centerline just forwardof the rudder post opening. This is actuallythe top of the sternpost on a real ship. On thetransom, fit the main boom sheet traveler rodmade from wire. See Figure D-2 for a sketchof the area.

3. Catheads, Bulwark Sheaves, Cavils, & Gunport Lids

When you installed the bulwark stanchionsearlier, most of the bow timbers and hawseholes were finished at that time. There arestill a few more details for the bulwarksunless you got these done while installing thebulwark stanchions.The catheads are laser cut parts. Beforeinstalling, drill the holes for the anchor tackleand add the eyebolts for the jibboom guys(Figure D-3).

FIG. D-1 TRANSOM RAIL & FASHION PIECE

FIG. D-2 INBOARD STERN DETAILFIG. D-2 INBOARD STERN DETAIL FIG. D-3 CATHEADS

FIG. D-4 CAVILS FIG. D-6 LADDER WAY

TAFFRAIL

TAFFRAIL

SIDETAFFRAIL

MOULDINGSTRIP

FASHIONPIECE

TRANSOMEXTENSION

PIECE

JOINTCAPRAIL

SIDETAFFRAIL

WALE

WALEJOINT

TRANSOM

COUNTERDECK

DRILLHOLES

FORANCHORTACKLE

EYEBOLTSFOR

JIBBOOMGUYS

LASER-CUTCATHEAD

CLEAT FORBELAYINGANCHORTACKLE

THIS SIDE OFCATHEAD MAYBE SHAPED TO

FIT FLUSHAGAINSTBULWARK

CAP RAIL

BULWARK

HOOK TO EYEBOLT ON SIDE OF STANCHION

CL

BOOM SHEETTRAVELER ROD

JOINT

FASHIONPIECE TAFFRAIL

CAP RAILSIDE TAFFRAIL

FASHION PIECE

WATERWAY STRIP

WATERWAYSTRIP

SECTION THROUGH TRANSOM

OUTBOARD VIEW AT CORNERSIDE VIEW

TRANSOMEXTENSION

PIECE MOULDINGSTRIP ALONGBOTTOM OFTRANSOM

TAFFRAIL

BLOCK REPRESENTINGTOP OF STERN POST

TRAVELER ROD

RUDDER & TILLER

BLOCK

STERN POST

SECTIONTHROUGH

RUDDER HOLE

HOLE IN CARVED HULLLADDER - MAKE FROM

STRIPWOOD

OPTIONALHATCH COVER

SCRIBE OR GLUE

INDIVIDUALBOARDS

1 OR 2PIECES

PIN ORJUST GLUE 1/32" THICK CAVIL

DECK

CAP RAIL

COAMINGS - CUT FROM STRIPWOOD

LIFT LINE

LIFT LINELIDCASTING

DRILL HOLE,GLUE LINE

GLUE OR PIN CASTING TO CAP RAIL

FIG. D-5 GUNPORT LIDS

9

Install the cavils, cut from stripwood, acrossthe bulwark stanchions in locations shown onthe plans (Figure D-4).The gunport lids are Britannia castings. Installthese in the open position. Add the line forretrieving and holding up the line. The cast-ing has a ring where the line attaches but it ismolded in flat with the casting so is useless forattaching a line. Drill a small hole at this ring,insert and glue the line (Figure D-5).

4. Deck Bitts, Fife Rails, Pin Rails,Capstan, Galley Funnel, Hatches,Ladder Way, Pumps, & Skylight The main hatch, galley hatch, capstan, galleyfunnel, bowsprit bitts, riding bitts and fiferails are all Britannia castings. Drill the neces-sary holes and install the fittings. The ridingbitts have a stripwood bar between the portand starboard bitt. Glue this in place.Fife Rails - Each of the fife rails consists ofthe topsail sheet bitts casting and tworail/stanchion pieces. The sheet bitt castingslopes aft, so drill the holes in the deckaccordingly. Drill holes for belaying pins inthe rails and glue the rails to the Bitts. The railstanchions also require holes in the deck.Galley Hatch & Galley Funnel - The baseof the galley funnel and the galley hatch cast-ings are slightly larger than shown on the deckplan. They will still fit, just adjust by movingthe funnel aft a bit.Ladder Way - As noted earlier, the ladder wayhatch can be open showing the ladder orclosed with hatch covers. The hatch coam-ings, ladder, and/or covers are to be madefrom stripwood (Figure D-6).Skylight - Figure D-7 illustrates the con-struction of the wooden skylight. The top israther small for much detail so the glass canbe simulated by painted light blue with blackink bars.Pin Rails - There is a pin rail between thebulwark cap rails forward and pin rails at vari-ous locations along the bulwarks. Make therails from stripwood, and drill the holes andinstall the belaying pins before gluing the railsin place. Pumps - Two wooden tub pumps arerequired on the deck just aft of the mainmast fife rails. No casting is provided so thesemust be made from wood. Figure D-8 showsa suggested method.

5. CannonsNow the fun begins. You will find the work alittle tedious, but take your time and you willhave some nice deck detail. The carriages andcannon barrels are Britannia castings. Gluethe barrels atop the carriages. Drill a hole oneach side of the carriage and insert a smalleyebolt. The eyebolts are for hooking the gunouthaul tackles. Below the eyebolts drillanother hole and add an eyebolt and splitring. This fitting is a fairlead for the breech

line, but at our model scale, this fitting couldbe omitted. Your choice.

After the guns are fitted and painted, add aneyebolt and split ring to form a ring bolt inthe bulwark stanchions on each side of thegunports. This is for securing the breech line.

Figure D-9 illustrates the cannon rigged inposition. In back of each gun on the deck,there is an eyebolt and split ring as shown onthe plan. This fitting is for a tackle to inhaulor train the cannons during battle. The actualtackle is portable, so it could be omitted onthe model.

6. Channels & Side LadderThere are three channel pieces port and star-board that support the lower deadeyes. Makethese from stripwood and shape the inboardedge to the hull curvature. Drill holes largeenough for the deadeye strops to passthrough. Or, notch the hole and add a stripover the edge after the deadeyes are installed(Figure D-10). The side ladder is three wooden steps on theoutside of the bulwark. Make it from strip-wood (Figure D-11).

FIG. D-7 SKYLIGHT FIG. D-8 PUMPS

FIG. D-9 CANNON RIG

FIG. D-10 CHANNELS FIG. D-11 SIDE LADDER

PAINT TO FAKEGLASS & BARS

BREECHLINE

CASTING

INHAUL TACKLE

EYEBOLT IN DECK

CAP RAIL CAP RAIL

2 PIECESOR CARVEFROM ONE

STRIP

WATERWAY STRIP

CHANNEL

WATERWAY STRIP

BULLWARKHOLE FOR

CHAIN PLATE

OPTION - CUT SLOT,ADD SEPARATE STRIP

AFTER DEADEYESARE INSTALLED

SIDE

TOP

OUTHAULTACKLE

BOTH SIDES

1/32" BASSWOOD

HANDLE

SIDE BRACKETWIRE

HOLEIN DECK

FILE FLATS ORLEAV E ROUND

WOOD DOWEL

1/16" BASSWOOD

D

S

S

S

Most references call a mast a mast, andanything else such as a boom, yard, gaff,and bowsprit a spar. Let’s stick with that definition.There are two mast assemblies for the DapperTom. They are a foremast & main mast. Theforemast is built up in three sections: lowermast, topmast, & topgallant mast. The mainmast is built up in only two sections: lowermast & topmast. Each of the sections are con-nected at the doublings (upper and lowermast overlap) by mast caps and trestletreeswhich in this kit are Britannia metal castings.Lower mast trestletrees are supported fromthe mast by bibbs (or cheeks) cut from woodsheet. The castings for the trestletrees includecrosstrees and tops where appropriate, all inone casting which eliminates a lot of assembly. The mast and spar dowels included in the kitare round. True to scale, masts and spars mustbe tapered for their full length.

1. Shaping the Masts

Establishing the Correct Curve of the MastsThe correct shape of the masts are shown onthe plans. Each of the mast sections shouldbe tapered in a slight (parabolic) curve (Fig-ure E-1). However, for this kit scale, it maybe difficult to accomplish a parabolic shape.A straight line taper should be sufficient.The best way to taper the masts from dowelsis to cut the taper into squares, thenoctagons, and finish by sanding into a roundshape (Figure E-2).

Shaping the Mastheads & HeelsThe next areas of the masts to be shaped arethe mastheads and heels where the masts jointogether at the doublings (see plans for loca-tion). Each mast has a head and a heellocated at its uppermost and bottom ends,respectively. The masthead on the lowermasts and fore topmast is from the trestle-trees upward to the cap. To accommodate the mast caps and trestletreefittings, the mastheads must be shaped square.The lower masts also have flat sides below thetrestletrees where the trestletree cheeks (alsocalled bibbs) are to be glued. The heel of the topmasts and topgallant mastis round where it passes through the mast capat the top of the doubling and square at thebottom at the trestletrees. The transitionfrom the square to the round portion isshown on the plans. A fid (protruding bolt ofwood or iron) is located in each topmast andtopgallant mast heel to prevent them fromfalling through the holes formed by thetrestletrees. The lower masts at the deck areoctagonal in shape. As an option the mastscould be left round.

Figure E-3 illustrates the shaping of themastheads, heels and the fid. Since you aredealing with wood dowels, the sketch alsoshows how to build the square or octagonalends by adding wood to the cut-end. Addingwood is necessary because the dimensionacross the flats of the square must be thesame as the dowel diameter. Consequently,the diagonal of the square is greater than thedowel diameter.

2. Assembling the MastsFirst, install the lower mast top fitting, thenthe topmast heel into the fitting. Make sureyou already have the fid installed into thetopmast heel. Then slide the mast cap overthe top mast and secure the cap onto thelower masthead. Make sure the topmast linesup straight with the lower mast when look-ing fore and aft and that the two mastsections are parallel when looking from the

side. You can now glue the fittings. Assemblethe fore topgallant mast to the topmast inthe same manner.

Mast Details - Before painting and stainingthe masts there are a few details to add. Thefore topgallant mast and the main topmastshould have a shoulder where the lifts andstays are seized near the top of the mast. Ifyou have not tapered the masts with theshoulder, do so now, or cut a groove at thatpoint. This is needed so the rigging lines donot slide down. The topgallant and topsail tyes pass throughsheaves in the masts. You don’t need a sheaveon the model, but drill a hole through themasts for the lines.The head of the fore topmast has a cheekblock port and starboard with two sheaves.Make the block with stripwood and drill ahole where the sheaves would be. The holeson the starboard side are for passing the jib

10

STAGE E: MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION

FIG. E-1 TAPER ON MASTS & SPARS

FIG. E-2 SHAPING THE MASTS

FIG. E-3 SHAPING MASTHEADS & HEELS

CENTER OF A YARD, OR MAXIMUM DIAMETEROF A MAST, GAFF, OR BOOM

THIS IS THE DESIRED CURVE. MATHEMATICALLY, IT IS A PARABOLA. IT’S CLOSE TO THE ARC OF A CIRCLE. SIMPLY TAPER THE SPAR

GRADUALLY FROM MAXIMUM DIAMETER TO THE END. FOR YARDS, MAKE SURE BOTH SIDES ARE THE SAME.

STRAIGHT LINE

DRAW SQUARE ON END

MINIMUMDIAMETERMAXIMUM

DIAMETER

MAST

DOWELTAPERREQUIRED

SQUARE

SQUARE

1. CUT SQUARE

2. ADD WOOD

OCTAGON

SQUARE

FINAL SHAPESTOPMAST & TOP GALLANT HEEL

FORE TOP MASTHEADLOWER MASTS AT DECKSPAR DIAMETER BUILD-UP

LOWER MASTHEADS

FID

ROUND

ROUND

SQUARE

TRESTLE TREE

CHAMFEREDGES

TOPTRESTLE

TREES

ROUNDBELOW

TRESTLETREES

ROUNDBELOW

TRESTLETREES

8-SIDED(OCTAGON)

FLAT SIDES INWAY OF THECHEEKS &

UNDER THETRESTLE

TREES

1ST CUTSQUARE

2ND CUT8-SIDED

SANDEDROUND

11

stay and the jibsail halliard. The port sideblock is not used or is for other lines notrigged on this model. Figure E-4 illustratesthe mast details.

Main Boom Rest - The main mast has a restfor the boom. The rest is a laser cut part butrequires support chocks cut from stripwood(Figure E-5).

3. Shaping & Detailing the SparsYardsShape the yards in the same manner as themasts. The maximum diameter of each yard isat its center. Taper the yards outward fromeach center.

Yard Details - Cut a shoulder on each end ofthe yards which is a stop for lifts andfootropes. Also, drill holes (sheaves on realship) in the ends of the yards for the sheetsfrom the sail above. Though the plans do notshow them, most likely the yards have chocksin way of the parrels and trusses. Jackstays (12A) consists of a series of eyeboltsthru which a line is passed and fixed at theends of the yard. The line and eyebolts areused for attaching the head of the sail and thefootrope stirrups. Note that the eyebolts areon top of the yard but slightly forward of theyards centerline. You have a lot of holes todrill for the eyebolts. While you are detailingthe yards you might as well add the jackstaylines after the eyebolts are installed. Figure E-6 illustrates a typical yard.

Boom & GaffsThe main boom and fore and aft gaffs alsotaper, but the maximum diameter of each sparshould be about one-third from its fore end.Like the yards, cut a shoulder at the outer endof these spars. The boom and gaffs requirethat jaws be added to their throats for joiningto the masts. The jaws are laser-cut woodparts in this kit (Figure E-7).

Bowsprit, Jibboom, & Dolphin StrikerThe bowsprit is tapered forward from thehull. At the outer end, cut the square shape tofit the bowsprit cap (Britannia casting foundin kit). The aft end of the bowsprit tapersfrom the bow back to the bitts. From the endof the stem back to the bitts on deck, theshape is octagonal with a square end to fit thebowsprit bitts hole. If using the dowel, youwill need to add wood as you did with thesquares on the masts. Or, you could forgetthis task and just leave the bowsprit round. The jibboom should be straight from the aftend to the bowsprit cap, then tapered forwardof the cap. At the outer end cut a shoulder forrigging stops. Where is the aft end of the jibboom? Theplans show only that it stops at the bow, butthis is not the complete story. Typically, Balti-

more Clipper jibbooms ended somewherealong the outer end of the bowsprit lasheddown to a saddle on the bowsprit. So forDapper Tom, it is recommended that you stopthe jibboom just aft of the forestay.The dolphin striker is a simple tapered roundspar. Cut a flat at the upper end where it willbe glued to the bowsprit cap. At the bottomof the spar, a wooden or metal cleat is fitted toeach side, which guide the fore topgallant stayand martingale stay.Figure E- 8 illustrates the bowsprit, jibboom,and dolphin striker details. Assembly -Glue the bowsprit cap onto thebowsprit. Make a saddle for the jibboom,then insert the jibboom. Make sure the jib-

boom lines up with the bowsprit and thenglue it to the saddle atop the bowsprit. Gluethe dolphin striker (proper name martingale)to the bowsprit cap. Add the bees for the foretopmast stays, chock stops for rigging collars,lashings, eyebolts, and other details as shownin Figure E-9.

4. Installing the Mast & BowspritAssembliesBefore installing the masts, shape and slide onthe mast coats which are laser cut rings (Fig-ure E-10). The mast coats on a real ship areactually canvas covers over the wedges holdingthe masts in place.Place the masts and bowsprit in the holes you

FIG. E-4 MAST DETAILS

FIG. E-6 TYPICAL YARD

FIG. E-8 BOWSPRIT,JIBBOOM & DOLPHIN STRIKER

CHEEKS P/SMAKE FROM WOOD SHEET

SHOULDER AT UPPER PARTOF MAIN TOPMAST & FORETOPGALLANT MAST

FORE TOPMAIN TOP SIMILAR

HOLE FOR YARD TYE

CROSS TREES

TOPGALLANTMAST

CHEEK BLOCK P/S

DRILL HOLE FOR SHROUDS

TRESTLE TREES

CROSS TREES

CASTING

CASTINGS

SHEAVE HOLES

TRESTLE TREE

HOLE FOR TOPSAIL YARD TYE

FORE TOPMAST HEAD

HOLE FOR SAILABOVE SHEET

SHOULDER

JACKSTAYEYEBOLTS

FORWARD

FORWARD

FIG. E-5 MAIN BOOM REST

FIG. E-7 BOOM &GAFF JAWS

LASER-CUTRING

JACKSTAY LINEFED THROUGH EYEBOLTS–FIX AT ENDS

CHOCKS IN WAY OFPARRELS & TRUSSES

CHOCKS FROM

STRIPWOOD

PARREL

FLATTENSIDES

LASER-CUTJAW HALF

AT CAP

TAPER

FLAT AT CAP

ATBITTS

AT BOW

AT CAP

SHOULDER

SHOULDER

AT END OF STEMBOWSPRIT

JIBBOOM

DOLPHIN STRIKER

STRAIGHT TAPER

KNOT

12

drilled into the hull. It is suggested that you

do not glue the masts and bowsprit into the

holes. The rigging will hold them in position.

Furthermore, if the model gets restored in the

future, the masts and bowsprits can be easily

removed.

Check the alignment of the masts and

bowsprit. If not straight, looking aft, or at the

correct angle shown on the plans, you can

shim the holes. If necessary, drill the holes

larger to accommodate shimming.

1.Rigging IdentificationMost all of the rigging is identified on the rig-ging plan by number. The small belaying pinplan on the rigging plan shows a recommend-ed location for belaying the numbered lines.The key to the plan numbers is as follows:Note: Numbers 1 through 24 are standingrigging. Use the black rigging line supplied inthe kit. Numbers 25 through 50 are runningrigging. Use the tan rigging line supplied. If astanding rig has a tackle on the end, use tanline for the tackle. P/S indicates lines that areboth port and starboard.1. Shrouds (for all masts, P/S)2. Ratlines (for all shrouds, P/S)3. Deadeyes (for all shrouds, P/S)4. Lanyards (for all deadeyes, P/S)5. Fore Topgallant Mast Stay6. Jib Stay (includes an ouhaul tackle at the

bowsprit cap) 7. Traveler Ring at Jib Stay8. Fore Topmast Stay (P/S)

9. Forestay10. Footropes (for all yards, P/S)11. Stirrups (for all yards, P/S)12. Fore & Main Topmast

Futtock Shrouds (P/S)12A. Jackstays (for all yards, P/S))13. Fore & Main Topmast Backstays (P/S)14. Fore Topgallant Mast Backstays (P/S)15. Lifts (for all yards, P/S)16. Main Stay (P/S)17. Spring Stay18. Main Topmast Stay19. Bobstay20. Bowsprit Shrouds (P/S)21. Martingale Stays 22. Martingale Backropes (P/S)23. Manropes24. Fore & Main Lower Yard Slings25. Fore & Main Sail Tacks (P/S)26. Fore & Main Sail Sheets (P/S)27. Fore & Main Sail Clew Garnets (P/S)28. Fore & Main Topsail Sheets (P/S)29. Fore & Main Topsail Clew Lines (P/S)

30. Fore Topgallant Sail Sheets (P/S)31. Fore Topgallant Sail Clew Lines (P/S)32. Fore Lower Yard Braces (P/S)33. Fore Topsail Yard Braces (P/S)34. Fore Topgallant Yard Braces (P/S)35. Main Lower Yard Braces (P/S)36. Main Topsail Yard Braces (P/S)37. Fore & Main Topsail Yard Tye38. Fore & Main Topsail Yard Halliard

Runner & Fall39. Fore Topgallant Yard Tye40. Fore Topgallant Yard Halliard & Fall41. Fore & Main Gaff Peak Halliards42. Fore & Main Gaff Throat Halliards43. Fore & Main Gaff Vangs (P/S)44. Main Boom Topping Lifts (P/S)45. Main Boom Sheet 46. Main Gaff Ensign Halliards47. Jib Halliards48. Jib Inhaul49. Jib Sheet (P/S)50. Anchor Tackle & Fall P/S)

A few rigs are not numbered but are shownon the rigging plan to some degree. They areas follows and will be detailed later in theseinstructions:

Parrel (or parral) - On upper yards whichcan be raised or lowered, these lines hold theyard against the mast. Beads, or rollers, on thelines allow the yards to move freely along themast. There is a detail shown on the upperright side of the plan.

Truss - On lower yards, there are no parrels,instead, a fixed line holds the yards against themast. It has two running ends, each of whichhas a tackle secured to eyebolts in the deck atthe mast and the tackle belays to the fife rail.Thus, the truss can be tightened or loosenedat deck level. The truss is rope on the DapperTom. On later ships the rope truss wasreplaced by an iron fitting.

Jibboom Guys - These guys are shown in aplan view on the left hand side of the riggingplan. Note that the inboard ends have a tackleat the cat heads.

If you are not familiar with the names andfunctions of rigging lines, the book How toBuild First-Rate Ship Models From Kits byBen Lankford contains a description of Nauti-cal terms (See Bibliography).

Note: Throughout these instructions the low-est yards and their sails are referred to as“Lower Yards or Sails”. A more proper term is“Course Yards or Sails”.

2. Line, Block, & Deadeye SizesThere is a limited number of different size rig-ging lines in the kit. The following is asuggested list of line size use:

Standing Rigging (Black Line)

0.008" Dia. Line - All Ratlines, Fore & MainTopmast Shroud Lanyards, Fore TopgallantShrouds, Topgallant Yard Lifts, & Fore Top-gallant Stay.

0.012" Dia. Line - All Yard Footropes &Stirrups, Main Lower Yard & Topsail YardLifts, Fore & Main Topmast Shrouds & Fut-tock Shrouds, Fore Topgallant Backstays,Jibboom Guys, Fore & Main Lower ShroudLanyards, Martingale Stay & Backropes,Bowsprit Shrouds, Fore Topmast Stays, MainTopmast Stay, & Jib Stay.

0.021" Dia. Line - Fore & Main LowerShrouds, Fore & Main Topmast Backstays,Spring Stay, & Lower Fore Yard Lifts

0.028" Dia. Line - Forestay, Main Stays,Bobstay, & Fore & Main Lower Yard Slings& Trusses.

FIG. E-9 BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY

FIG. E-10 MASTCOAT

STAGE F: GENERAL RIGGING INFORMATION

SADDLE BLOCK

LASHING LASER-CUT RINGMASTCOAST

ROUND TOP EDGES

CAP CASTING

CLEATS

BEES FOR FORE TOPMAST STAYS

CHOCK STOPS FOR BOBSTAY & BOWSPRIT

SHROUD COLLARS

CHOCK STOPSFOR FORESTAY

COLLAR

HOLE FOR JIB STAY

HOLE FOR FORE TOPGALLANT STAYEYEBOLT FOR

JIB IN HOLE

13

Running Rigging (Tan Line)0.008" Dia. Line - Topgallant Sail Clew lines& Sheets, Fore & Main Topsail Clew Lines,Topgallant Yard Braces, Fore & Main GaffVangs, & Main Gaff Ensign Halliards.0.012" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Topsail YardBraces & Sheets, All Jackstays, Fore & MainSail Clue Garnets, Jib Stay Outhaul Tackle,Jibboom Guys Tackle, Boom Topping Lifts,Jib Halliard & Sheets & Downhaul, Jib StayInhaul & Outhaul tackle, & Topgallant YardTye & Halliards.0.018" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Sail Tacks& Sheets, Main Boom Sheet, Fore & MainTopsail Yard Tyes & Halliards, Fore & MainYard Truss Tackle, Gaff Peak & Throat Hal-liards, Lower Fore & Main Yard Braces, &Anchor Tackle.0.040" Dia. Line - Anchor Cable.

Blocks - Like the lines, the blocks for runningrigging are not sized on the plan. However,blocks are sized to suit the line that runsthrough their sheaves. The following list sug-gests the block sizes that should be used withthe line sizes provided:0.008" Line - Use 3/32" blocks.0.012" Line - Use 1/8" blocks.0.018" Line - Use 5/32" blocks.

Long Tackle Blocks - The plans show severalblocks which are long blocks with two sheavesin line rather than side by side. None areincluded in the kit. However, you can gluetwo single blocks together end to end to simulate the block, or simply substitute acommon double block.

Deadeyes - Use the smaller 3/32" Deadeyesfor the Fore & Main Topmast Shrouds, ForeTopgallant Backstay, & Bowsprit Shrouds.Use the 5/32" Deadeyes for Fore & MainLower Shrouds, Fore Topmast Backstays,Main Topmast Backstay, & the Bobstay.

3. Rigging Sail LinesThe Dapper Tom model is intended to becompleted with sails removed. However, evenwithout sails, some of the rigging lines such assheets, tacks, halliards, and clew lines are toremain, along with their lead blocks. Some ofthe lines are to be hooked together, such asthe jib halliard and sheets, and yard clew linesand sheets. The running ends of these linesshould be belayed at their proper locations.Installing the sail rigging lines on the DapperTom adds tremendously to the look of themodel, especially at the jib stay where thecontrasting black stay and light running lines,along with their blocks, create interestingvisual detail.

4. Applying Beeswax to the LinesBefore placing the lines on the model, run theline through a block of beeswax several times.

Then, run the line through your fingers. Thisheats the wax slightly and rubs it into the line.The beeswax will cut down on fuzz and pro-tect the line from moisture.

5. Seizing the LinesSeizing of lines (binding or securing two linesor different parts of the same line) can bedone as shown in Figure F-1. To prevent seiz-ings from unraveling, add a touch of CA glue.For seizings, use the 0.008" line in the kit orsewing thread.

6. Blocks, Strops, & FittingsAround the time the Dapper Tom was built,the use of rope for stropping blocks, and forparrels and slings on yards, was more com-mon than iron fittings. However, such itemsas iron-stropped blocks, hooks, and eyeboltswere available. There is no sure way to deter-mine exactly what was on the Dapper Tom.The details shown in the sketches and plansillustrate only one of the ways it may havebeen done. A block shown lashed into an eye-bolt could just as likely have been lashedaround the spar without the use of an eyebolt.A strop is an iron or rope band or grommetaround the shell of a block for attaching lines.

The blocks in the kit are fairly small, so it willnot be easy for you to create the exact detail-ing. Some modeling shortcuts are in order.See Figure F-2 for some life-size ship detailsand model options.

7. Rigging Tools & Belaying LinesFigure F-3 illustrates some homemade toolsthat are essential aids in the rigging process.Figure F-4 shows some suggestions for belay-ing lines to belaying pins and cleats.A word of advice - Rigging plans are hard tofollow. Lines cross each other and they some-times go behind something or seem todisappear into thin air. Before you start therigging, get a notebook and do a small sketchof each rigging line on a separate page. Sketchin where the lines end, such as at an eyeboltand label these points. If something seems tobe missing when you view your sketches, seekhelp or find the answer in a rigging text (con-sult the bibliography). Use the final sketchesas you rig the model. You won’t need to crawlyour way through the rigging plan again.When rigging such items as yards, boomsand gaffs, do as much rigging as possible withthe item in hand before installing the part onthe model. Seize the lines to the part and

FIG. F-1 SEIZINGS

FIG. F-2 BLOCKS,STROPS,& FITTINGS

CLOVE HITCH

WRAP

THREAD

HOOK

BECKET

EYEBOLT

LASHING

ROPE STROP

TWIST

WIRE

GLUE

GLUE

LINE OR WIRE

SEIZE & GLUE

NO HOOK

USING RIGGING LINE

SLIPKNOT & GLUE

CLOVEHITCHWITH

THREAD

LOOPTHROUGH

LINEPULL TIGHT,GLUE, THENCUT-OFF ENDS

SLIP KNOT

TOUCH WITH CA GLUE

CUT-OFF END

TUCK UP & GLUE

FAKED ON SMALL BLOCK OR SPAR

MODEL OPTIONS

SHIPSHIP

MODEL

FOR WRAPPING AROUNDYARDS & MASTS

14

FIG. F-3 RIGGING TOOLS

FIG. F-4 BELAYING LINES

CUT WITH SNIPS

PUSH

WOOD HANDLE BRASS ROD

PULL TIGHT& GLUE

REMOVABLE PIN

THREAD

JIG

ADD WHITEGLUE TO STIFFEN

FOR A MORE OPEN,REALISTIC LOOK,OMIT THREAD &

GLUE COILS TO EACHOTHER

USE TOOL TO PUSH LINE UNDER PIN

PULL

FLATTEN END, FILE SHAPE

LARGESEWINGNEEDLE

LARGESEWINGNEEDLE

BELAYING LINE TO PIN

SEPARATE ROPE COILS

1. Bowsprit RiggingBegin the standing rigging with the bowsprit.Add the gammoning (0.012" or 0.021" blackline), which ties the bowsprit to the stem.Wrap the gammoning neatly, laying each partof the line side by side as it is wrapped. Next,install the bobstay (19), then the bowspritshrouds (20). Figure G-1 illustrates the rig tothis point. Rigging at the bowsprit will becompleted while and after installing the headstays. But first, the mast shrouds will beinstalled since the head stays and all fore andaft stays go over the top of the shrouds at themastheads.

2. Shrouds & BackstaysThe lower shrouds (1), topmast backstays(13), and topgallant backstays (14) are set upwith deadeyes and lanyards at the channelsand attached along the outside of the shipusing chain plates. The lower deadeye stropsand chain plates are to be made of steel wireprovided in the kit (Figure G-2). To set up theshrouds, make a temporary jig of wire tospace the deadeyes as you do the seizings (Fig-ure G-3). The sketch also shows the sequencefor reeving the lanyards and the propersequence for the shrouds going around themastheads. Keep an eye on the masts as yourig the shrouds, so you will not pull them outof line. After the shrouds are in place, proceed

to add the ratlines and the sheerpoles (Figure G-4). The sketchshows ship practice and variousmodel options.The topmast shrouds are set upsimilar to the lower shrouds butinstead of having chain plates theyset up to futtock shrouds (12). Therigging plan seems to indicate thatthe futtock shrouds go to the mast,but this is not the practice for theperiod. They actually seize to thelower shrouds (Figure G-5).On this particular ship the topgal-

have enough running riggingline so it can reach to its finaldestination, such as a belayingpin, with a little line left. Bet-ter to be too long than tooshort. Standing rigging such asyard footropes are included, asthese would be very difficultto do with the yard hanging atthe mast.

STAGE G: STANDING RIGGING

FIG. G-1 BOBSTAY & BOWSPRIT SHROUDS

GAMMONING

SHROUDSP/S

BOBSTAYCOLLAR FOR BOBSTAY

& SHROUDS

FIG. G-2 DEADEYE STROPS & CHAIN PLATES

STROP

TWIST

MODELOPTION

CHAINPLATE

NAILBACKING

LINK

WIRE

15

lant shrouds have no deadeyes or ratlines. Theshrouds pass through the crosstrees and seizeto the topmast shrouds. 3. Foremast (Head) StaysForestay -The forestay (9) sets up to a closedand open heart and collar at the bowsprit.The closed heart shown on the plan appearsrather large for this ship. Normally, the openheart is simpler, and does not straddle thebowsprit as shown. That would make theheart much too wide. The hearts in the kit arelaser-cut and reflect the modification. File agroove around both of the hearts to receivethe stay and collar (Figure G-6).Figure G-7 illustrates the remaining headstays; fore topmast stay, jib stay & fore topgallant stay.Fore Topmast Stay -The fore topmast stay(8) is a double line passing port and star-board through the bees on the side of thebowsprit and are seized with lanyards to eye-bolts at the bow. Notice that the hole in theport bee is a little aft of the starboard beehole. Actually, the starboard stay should becalled a spring stay.

Jib Stay - The jib stay (6) is an interestingstay as it can be moved in or out along thejibboom with the aid of an outhaul tackle (6) and an inhaul (48 ) which are attached to atraveler ring. The ring is not included in thekit. Fashion it from brass or steel wire. Makesure you place the ring over the jibboom andrig this stay before you rig the outermost foretopgallant stay. The top of the jib stay passesthrough a cheek sheave on the side of themasthead and down to a tackle just abovethe deck.

Fore Topgallant Stay - This stay (5) passesthrough a hole (and sheave) at the end of thejibboom, under the starboard cleat on thedolphin striker, through a lead block on thestarboard side of the bowsprit, then through ahole in the bow and belays to a pin on theforward pin rail. This stay could also be set upto an eyebolt in the bow with lanyards andnot through a hole in the bulwark.Note: The detail on the rigging plan is con-fusing. The fore topgallant stay and themartingale stay appear to cross after passingthe dolphin striker. This is not likely so justswitch the lines with the topgallant going star-board and martingale going port.

4. Completing the Bowsprit Rigging

Now that the head stays are completed, youcan finish up the other bowsprit and jib-boom rigging. Figure G-8 illustrates thelines discussed. Martingale Stay & Backropes - This is thelowest stay on the jibboom. Seize the forwardend around the jibboom outer shoulder. Thestay (21) is lashed to the bottom of the dol-phin striker. From that point there is a

backrope (22) port andstarboard seized to eye-bolts at the hull. There isanother martingale stay,the inner martingale (also21), attached to the bot-tom of the traveler ringand feeds back via thedolphin striker, through alead block on the portside of the bowsprit tobelay inboard.Note: Refer back to thenote under fore topgal-lant stay regarding someconfusion with the plan detail.

Manropes (23) - Installan eyebolt port and star-board on top of thefairlead block at the bow.Run the lines to the eye-bolt stanchions atop thebowsprit cap. Midwaythere are support lineshanging from theforestay. A small nettingis shown on the planbetween the port andstarboard manropes. Nonetting is provided in thekit so you can omit it, oruse some netting materialfrom your local florist.

Jibboom Guys - Useblack line for the guysand tan for the tackles set to eyebolts on the catheads. The outer guysare secured to the end ofthe jibboom and theinner guys to the jib traveler ring.

5. Mainmast StaysMainstay - This stay (16)

FIG. G-3 SETTING UP THE SHROUDS

FIG. G-4 OPTIONS FOR TYING RATLINES

MAKE A LITTLE LONGERTHAN REQUIRED. LET

LANYARDS PULLSHROUDS TIGHT.

TEMPORARYWIREJIG

SEIZE

KNOT

STAYS

SHROUDS

TIE LANYARD& GLUE

LANYARDSEQUENCE

CUT-OFFAND GLUE

CLOVEHITCH

VIEW ISINBOARDLOOKING

OUTBOARD

SHROUDSEQUENCE

PORT

THREADWITH

NEEDLE

CLOVE HITCHESALL SHROUDS

WOOD SHEERPOLE LASHEDTO SHROUDS

EYE SPLICE LASHED TO

SHROUD (REAL SHIP)

FIG. G-5 TOPMAST FUTTOCK SHROUDS

FIG. G-6 FORESTAY

FORE TOPMAIN TOPSHROUD

WOODSTAVE

COLLAR

AT MAST TOP

CLOSED HEART

OPEN HEART

SEIZE

LOWERSHROUDS

FORESTAY

LANYARD

STOP CHOCKON BOWSPRIT

P/S

STROP

HOOK &LINE

FUTTOCKSHROUD

LOWER SHROUDS

LASH TO LOWER SHROUDS

16

is a pair, passing on eachside of the foremast andsetting up port and star-board with lanyards to theeyebolts shown on thedeck plan just forward ofthe foremast fife rail. Thestay eye would be fittedwith a metal thimble (Fig-ure G-9). Thisarrangement is a commonsolution. However, onsome ships the stay couldhave set up to bullseyes ordeadeyes at the deck.There is usually manysolutions to rigging theseold ships.

Spring Stay & MainTopmast Stay - Thespring stay (17) sets toeyebolts on the fore andmain mast caps. Themain topmast stay (18) isseized around the maintopmast and to an eye-bolt on the foremast capnext to the spring stay.

Main Topgallant Stay -This stay is shown butnot numbered or identi-fied on the rigging plan.Above the main topmaststay and shrouds, the top-mast continues foranother 13 feet or so.This extension could beclassified as a topgallant.Therefore, the fore andaft stay at the top will beidentified as main topgal-lant stay. Secure theforward end at the foretopmast crosstrees.

6. Yard Lifts,Footropes, Stirrups,Slings, & TrussesThese lines are a part ofthe standing rigging list but we will defer theinstruction to running rigging, Stage H.These lines are best installed along with somerunning rigging while working with the yards. Justdon’t forget that these lines are black.Examine the model before moving to the nextstage. Is a mast or the bowsprit and jibboomout of alignment? Now is the time to correctthese mistakes.

FIG. G-7 FORE TOPMAST, JIB,& FORE TOPGALLANT STAYS

FIG. G-8 REMAINING RIGGING AT BOWSPRIT

FIG. G-9 MAIN STAY

AT TOP

JIB STAY

JIB INHAULTO PIN RAIL

OUTHAULTACKLE

TRAVELERRING

FORE TOPGALLANT STAY

CHEEKBLOCK

TACKLE AT DECKBETWEEN

FIFE RAIL - BELAYTO FIFE RAIL

FORE TOPMAST STAY(SPRING STAY)

PORTFORE TOPMASTSTAY STARBOARD

BELAY TOPIN RAIL

EYEBOLT &LANYARD

OPTION - SET TO EYEBOLTWITH LANYARD

LEAD BLOCKPORT SIDE

JIBBOOM BUYSP/S

NET

P

S

MARTINGALESTAYS

MARTINGALEBACK STAYSMARTINGALEBACK STAYS

EYESPLICEWITH THIMBLE

LANYARDS

EYEBOLTSIN DECK

EYEBOLT& LANYARDS

TO PINRAIL

MANROPE P/S

MANROPESUPPORTLINE P/S

CATHEAD

JIBTRAVELER

RING

17

Before starting on the running rigging, have allyour blocks stropped and/or seized to a line asmuch as possible. Some running lines maypass through a sheave hole, they require ablock. If so try starting at the block and rig-ging backward. Of course, if in such asituation a block is required on both sides ofthe sheave, you are stuck with having to seizeat least one of the blocks on the model.

1. Jib RiggingThe only head sail lines shown on the plan arefor a jib. There should have been more headsails such as a fore staysail and a jib topsail. Ifyou desire to add any additional sail lines toyour model, consult the Baltimore Clipperbook in the Bibliography. It would be advis-able and add to the model if you at least addhalliards and downhaul at the fore topgallantstay. Rig it like the jib halliards.The jib halliard (47) is seized to the topmastcap, goes down through a single block, backup through a cheek sheave on side of the mast-head, and down to its belaying pin on deck.With no sail, the lower block is brought downand placed just above the bowsprit andhooked to the jib sheets (49). But wait, thelines are floating in thin air. That’s because aline is missing from the plan. There should bea downhaul for the jib sail. To correct thisomission, add a single block lashed to the trav-eler ring. The downhaul will be hooked alongwith the sheets to the lower halliard block. Thedownhaul then goes thru the block on thetraveler ring and belays on the pin rail at thebow. The jib sheets could be omitted, but iffitted the standing end is secured to an eyebolton the port and starboard cap rail, and the linebelayed to the pin rail on the bulwarks. FigureH-1 illustrates the entire set-up.

2. Lower YardsJackstays - The jackstays were already installedwhen you detailed the yards in Stage E so nofurther work is required.

Footropes (10) & Stirrups (11) - Rememberthese are black standing rigging lines. Beeswaxthe footropes heavily so you can droop theminto a natural hanging curve and they will stayin place. Note the stirrups and inboard end ofthe footrope goes on the aft side of the yard(Figure H-2).

Braces - For now, just add the brace blocksat the ends of the yard (also Figure H-2).The main yard blocks face forward and foreyard blocks face aft. The brace rigging will bediscussed later.

Clew Garnets (27), Sheets (26), & Tacks(25) - These are all sail lines hooked togetherwhen the sails are removed. The clew garnetsare the only lines actually attached to the yard.

You could hook up the sheets and tacks afterthe yard is installed on the model, or add themnow. Both the sheets and tacks go to the hullthru sheaves in the bulwark and belay to cavilson the bulwark stanchions with one exception.The forward tacks go to the end of long polescalled boomkins protruding from the hull(Figure H-3).

Topsail Sheet Blocks - Refer to the topsailsheet discussion in the next paragraph.

Slings - The lower yards have no halliard andtye, but a fixed sling (24), since the yards arenot hoisted like other yards. The sling can beattached to the yard now, but cannot be fullycompleted until the yard is in place since the

sling goes around the masthead (Figure H-4).

Truss - The truss (not numbered) holds theyard against the mast. The line is pulled uptight by the port and starboard ends which areattached to a tackle at the deck (also FigureH-4). On some ships the truss is flipped andthe tightening tackle placed at the top abovethe yard instead of at the deck.

Lifts - The lifts (15) for this particular shipreconstruction appear to be fixed standing rig-ging at the caps. However, on most ships of theperiod a more common arrangement would beto have the lifts pass through blocks at the capand down to a tackle on deck. See Figure H-5for both the fixed lifts and running option.

STAGE H: RUNNING RIGGING

FIG. H-1 JIB HALLIARD, DOWNHAUL, & SHEETS

FIG. H-2 YARD FOOTROPES & STIRRUPS, BRACE BLOCKS

CHEEKBLOCK

JIBBOOMBELAY

TO FORWARDPIN RAIL

JIB SHEETS

EYEBOLTIN CAP RAIL

BRACEBLOCK

FORWARD

JACKSTAY

STIRRUP

FOOTROPE

CL

BELAY TO PIN RAILON STARBOARD BULWARK

BELAY TO PIN RAILON BULWARK

HOOK TOGETHER

JIB DOWNHAUL

JIBSTAY TRAVELER RING

JIB HALLIARD

SET FIXED END TO EYEBOLTOR WRAP AROUND THE CAP

P

S

18

3. Topsail YardsThe jackstays, footropes & stirrups, lifts andbrace blocks are essentially the same as for thelower yards.

Clew Lines and Sheets - The clew lines (29)are just like the lower yard clew garnets, just adifferent name. There are no tacks. The sheets(28) hook to the clewline block, then gothrough a sheave (a hole will do) at the ends ofthe lower yards, through the block on thelower yard inboard of the clew garnet blockand down to the belaying pins (Figure H-6).

Parrels - The topsail yards move up anddown. To hold the yard against the mast a par-rel is used. The parrel is a beaded fixture so theyards will move freely along the mast. Howev-er, because of the small scale of this model, asimple line without the beads will be adequate(Figure H-7).

Tye and Halliards - The halliard ( for liftingthe topsail yards) is made up of a tye (37)attached to the yard, a runner (38), and finallya fall (also 38) which is the tackle at the deck.The tye passes through a sheave in the mast.Just drill a hole if you have not already done sowhile making the masts. For both fore and main rigs, the runner seizesto an eyebolt in the channels. The lower fallblock also seizes to an eyebolt in the channelsbut on the opposite side of the ship. One dif-ference between fore & main, the rig is flippedso the foremast fall is on the starboard side andmain mast on the port side. Figure H-8 illus-trates the rig.

4. Fore Topgallant YardEverything is basically the same as the topsailyards except for the halliard. The runner iseliminated so you have only the tye (39) andfall (40). The lower fall block is hooked at thefore top, or at the channel but the line stillgoes to the deck for belaying.

5. Rigging the Yard BracesYou should have the blocks on the yardsalready. Now you need lead blocks at themasts. Figure H-9 shows where these blocksare located. All brace lines belay at deck level.Note that the sketch shows the main topsailyard lifts set to eyebolts on the fore lower mastcap. An option would be to fix the blocks andfixed ends to a rope collar around the masthead just under the cap.

6. Fore & Main Gaffs & Main BoomThe foresail on the fore gaff of the lower fore-mast is loose footed. The gaff is fitted withvangs (port & starboard) that extend from thepeak of the gaff to the outboard deck to steadythe gaff when the sail is furled. Peak and throathalliards raise and lower the gaff. For ourmodel, without sails, the sheet for the foresail

would have been removed with the sail. Theremaining peak and throat halliards and thevangs are identical to the mainsail.Unlike the foresail, the mainsail has a boomand a boom topping lift (44). Normally, whenthe sail is furled or removed, the gaff is loweredto lay on top of the boom. However, for themodel the gaff looks better in the up positionand the vangs help fill in the open space. Therigging plan shows it this way.

Gaff Throat and Peak Halliards - Rig thethroat (42) and peak (4) halliard lower blocksand peak halliard seizing on the gaff beforeinstalling the gaff. The upper blocks aresecured below the top and mast cap respective-ly. The hauling end of the peak halliard shouldgo down on the starboard side of the boomand the throat halliard on the port side. The

belaying plan is confusing because it indicateswhat appears to be eyebolts in the deckbetween the main mast fife rails. In this case,there would be a tackle in the halliards hookedto these eyebolts and the fall lines belayed tothe fife rail. The fore fife rail has no indicationat all where the halliards are belayed. To sim-plify the rigging, it is suggested that no tacklesbe installed and the halliards simply be belayedto pins in the fife rail. See Figure H-10 for thehalliard arrangement.

Boom Topping Lifts, Gaff Vangs, & BoomSheet - Figure H-11 illustrates these runninglines. The topping lifts (44) are a pair of linesport and starboard. Quite a hefty rig but themainsail would be quite heavy when the sailis furled.

FIG. H-3 LOWER YARD CLEW GARNETS, SHEETS & TACKS

FIG. H-4 LOWER YARD SLING & STRUSS

CLEW GARNET P/S

HOOK TOGETHER

TACK P/SSHEET P/S

BELAY TOCAVIL

EYEBOLT

HOLE (SHEAVE)

TACK P/S

BOOMKIN

BULWARK(AT FORE YARD)

BULWARK(AT MAIN YARD)

BULWARK(AT MAIN YARD)

SLING

TRUSS

CLEATS ONFORWARD SIDE OF YARD

EYEBOLT ATDECK P/S

BELAY TOPIN RAILAT BOW

CL

19

The vangs (43) are fitted port and starboard.The plan does not clearly show where thefixed end of the fall is located. Seize it to aneyebolt in the deck close to the bulwark or ontop of the cap rail directly in line with the lineon the plan.

The main boom sheet (45) lower block is fit-ted with a ring around the traveler rod on thetransom. The running end can be belayed portor starboard to the cavils on the bulwark stan-chions. The lead block on the deck can beconsidered optional.

7. Anchor TackleFigure H-12 shows the anchors, port and star-board, rigging and stowage. Coil the anchorcables on the deck.

8. Final TouchesAfter all the rigging is in place, re-check everyline, and make sure all the seizings are sound.If necessary, add another touch of CA glue toseizings. Check to see if there are any shinyplaces on the rigging. If necessary, tough-upstanding rigging with black paint, or black liq-uid shoe polish. For running rigging, use a tanstain, or brown liquid shoe polish.

Check to see if any of the painted woodenparts were marred or scratched during the rig-ging process and touch-up as necessary.

Congratulations—you’ve done it! We look for-ward to helping you with your next shipmodeling project.

FIG. H-5 YARD LIFTS

FIG. H-6 TOPSAIL YARD CLEWLINES & SHEETS

FIG. H-7 YARD PARRELS

TACKLEAT DECK

FIXED

FIXED

RUNNING

RUNNING

OPTION 1

OPTION

LOWER YARDS& FORE TOPSAIL

TOPSAILYARD

LOWERYARD

REAL SHIP

MODEL OPTION

MAIN TOPSAIL& FORE TOPGALLANT

OPTION 1NO BLOCKS AT CAP

TACKLEAT DECK

BELAY ATBULWARKPIN RAIL

SHEET LEAD BLOCK

BELAY AT FIFE RAIL

YARD

COULD ALSOELIMINATETHE HAULINGEND

MAST

BELAY TODECK B ITTS

BEADS (10 PER YARD)

RIBS (6 PER YARD)

CLEWLINE

HOOK TOGETHER

SHEET

Below and on the following pages are photos of the Dapper Tom rigging on our prototype model.

20

FIG. H-8 TOPSAIL,YARD TYE & HALLIARD

FIG. H-9 YARD BRACES

HOLE IN MAST

TYE

RUNNER

EYEBOLT INCHANNEL

TACKLE PORTAT MAINMAST& STARBOARDAT FOREMAST

CHANNEL

FORE TOPGALLANTYARD BRACE

LASH LINES &BLOCKS TO

LOWER SHROUDS

FORE TOPSAILYARD BRACE

OPTION-COLLARAROUND MAST

MAIN TOPSAILYARD BRACE

MAIN LOWERYARD BRACE

FORE LOWERYARD BRACE

ALL BRACES PORTS & STARBOARD

MAIN TOPMAST

MAIN TOP FORE TOP

BELAY TOPIN RAIL

HALLLIARD

21

FIG. H-10 GAFF THROAT & PEAK HALLIARDS

FIG. H-11 GAFF VANGS, BOOM TOPIPNG LIFTS & SHEET

FIG. H-12 ANCHOR TACKLE

PEAK HALLIARD

COLLAR AROUNDTRESTLE

TREE

TO STARBOARD SIDE OF MAST TO PIN

IN FIFE RAIL

TO PORT SIDEOF MAST TO PIN

IN FIFE RAIL

BELAY TO PINSON BULWARK

PIN RAILS

COLLARAROUND

MASTD

D

S

STHROAT

HALLIARD

VANGSP/S

RING

CAVILTOPPING LIFT

P/S

BELAY TOBULWARKPIN RAIL

EYEBOLT IN DECKOR IN RAIL

LASH TOBULWARK

CLEATINBOARD

BELAY TO PINRAIL OR ACLEAT ON

THE CATHEAD

LEAD BLOCKP/S

(OPTIONAL)TRAVELER RODON TRANSOM

BOOM SHEET

1. The Baltimore Clipper by Howard I. Chapelle. Marine Research Society 1930. Reprinted by Bonanza Books, Crown Publishing. This is a complete history of the Baltimore Clipper type. It contains many plans of contemporary schooners.

2. The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchorby Darcy Lever. 1819 (reprinted)Block and spar details, and typical rigging techniques of the period.

3. Steel’s Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Riggingby David Steel. 1794 (reprinted)Details of masts and spars, block, rigging practices, and rigging sizes.

5. The Art of Riggingby George Biddlecombe. 1848 (reprinted)There is essentially an update of David Steel’s earlier work.

6. The Neophyte Shipmodeller’s Jackstayby George F. Campbell. Model Shipways, 1962.Excellent visuals and background information on building models from kits. Good detail on hulls and rigging. Great for beginners.

7. How to Built First-Rate Ship Models From Kits by Ben Lankford. Model Expo 2002. Comprehensive reference covers construction methods for solid hull, plank-on-bulkhead, and plank-on-frame kits. The book is profusely illustrated and includes glossary of nautical terms.

Note: Many books are available through Model Expo at www.modelexpo-online.com. Please check current catalog or website for availability.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

22

23

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