my home-made bob beck magnetic pulser

7/25/2019 My Home-Made Bob Beck Magnetic Pulser

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This page is sponsored by Steffan's Violet Ray & Violet Wand

Shop

http://www.twotowers.com

My Home-Made Bob Beck Magnetic Pulser (Thumper)

Based on the Design by Chris Gupta

Ifyou made it to this web page, you most likely have already been researching the BobBeck Protocol. If you have no knowledge of electronics and are wanting to build your

own pulser, I recommend thoroughly going over Chris Gupta's Pulser pagefirst and

then coming back here to fill in the blanks. Here I offer photographs and additional

information that may be of assistance to anyone wanting to build their own Bob Beck

Electromagnetic Pulser.

Bob Beck Protocol Information:If you would like to learn more about Robert Beck

and the Beck Protocol, you can view several Google Videos by clicking on the following

Link - Beck Video. Beyond these videos, there is a wealth of information on the internet

about the Bob Beck Protocol. In a nutshell however it implies a four process system

involving blood electrification, electromagnetic pulse, colloidal silver and ozonated
http://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkiX0jJJozkhttp://www.newmediaexplorer.org/chris/2009/02/19/build_a_low_cost_simple_magnetic_pulser.htmhttp://www.twotowers.com/http://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.html


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water. If you are experiencing cancer, hiv, lupus, candida or one or more of a host of

other ailments, it would be worth your time to research this health process. Also, you

can download the entire Bob Beck Lecture, "Take Back Your Power" (1MB PDF). I have

searched hi and low for this and finally found the complete document.

Useful mag pulser technical information provided by Russ Torlage of Sota Instruments

regarding the construction of electromagnetic pulsers can be found by clicking on this

link.

The information I provide on this web page is an account of what I have learned in the

process of studying Beck devices and building my own units for my own

experimentation purposes. I assume no responsibility for anything one might do with

the information provided on this web page. Please view any explanations as

hypothetical and not as instructions to be followed.

Lethal Electric Shock Hazard!This device uses 110V AC current and a bank of capacitors that stores a significant

charge. If this device is not built in a safe manor, there can be a risk of lethal electric

shock. It would advisable for individuals that are unfamiliar with electronics, to have

someone like a TV repairman build this device for them. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be

absolutely present, mindful and cautious when working around exposed capacitors and

110VAC current. As you will read below, even a shock by a single capacitor from a

disposable camera, can be extremely unpleasant. A professor at Penn Engineeringjokingly recommended that I keep one hand in my pocket. In other words, keeping one

hand in my pocket would prevent an electric shock from going across my heart!

Looking on the bright side however, Chris Gupta told me that many people have

successfully built and are using this device based on his schematic. I'm just asking

those that are intending to build this machine, to use safe practices when working

around exposed capacitors and hot electrical wires.

Please post any successes, failures, comments or questions on Chris Gupta's

Pulser web page, or on my FaceBook Page

Please take a close look at the photos below before reading on. As I don't provide a

lead-in, reviewing the images will help you to understand what I'm talking about.

All measurements are in Inches.

Plastic Box Outside Dimensions: approximately 2-3/8 X 4-1/4 X 7-3/8

Using 1/2 inch #4 beveled machine screws I fastened a 1/8 inch plexiglas sub-floor to

the bottom of the box in order to allow for the attachment of the Terminal Contact Bars
http://www.newmediaexplorer.org/chris/2009/02/19/build_a_low_cost_simple_magnetic_pulser.htmhttp://www.twotowers.com/beck/sota_emp_info.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/beck/sota_emp_info.htmlhttp://www.twotowers.com/beck/take_back_your_power.pdf


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was using. The new SCR is the LittleFuse S4065JTP Thyristor. The LittleFuse

S4065JTP Thyristor/ SCR has a 40A continuous and an 800A peak amperage rating,

which exceeds Gupta's design specs. At least in my searching on the web, I found that

S602L that Gupta lists on his schematic actually is not in compliance with his own

specifications for that component, as it only has a "Peak Amp" rating of 255A. Gupta

told me that component specs vary depending the on manufacturer that makes it. He

also told me that a heat sink for the SCR was not necessary. I had already ordered it

however, so I went ahead and installed it anyway. New photos of my upgraded EMP

based on Chris Gupta's design can be found at the bottom of this page.

Specifications are as follows:

:

Current It av: 41A

Gate Trigger Current Max, Igt: 50mA

Gate Trigger Voltage Max Vgt: 2V

Holding Current Max Ih: 80mA

MSL: - No. of Pins: 3

On State RMS Current IT(rms): 65A

Operating Temperature Max: 125C

Operating Temperature Min: -40C

Peak Non Rep Surge Current Itsm 50Hz: 800A

Peak Repetitive Off-State Voltage, Vdrm: 400V

SVHC: No SVHC (16-Jun-2014) Thyristor Case: TO-218X

Thyristor Case Style: TO-218X

This SCR needs to be mounted on a heat sink to prevent the component from

overheating. Both items can be purchased from Newark element 14. Newark part

numbers are as follows.

LittleFuse S4065JTP Thyristor/SCR - Newark Stock Number #99K0083 - Web Page
http://www.newark.com/littelfuse/s4065jtp/thyristor/dp/72R7043?ost=72R7043


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AAVID Thermalloy 6396BG Heat Sink - Newark Stock Number #6396BG - Web Page

Bulbs and Lamp Holders : I used candelabra lamp holders as they take up less space

and are less bulky. Holes of the appropriate size were drilled into the top of the box

about 1 inch in from the edges. The main thing here, is to make sure that the bulbs are

not touching when screwed into the sockets. My pulser makes use of two spherical

shaped 60W bulbs. The spherical bulbs were more aesthetically pleasing to me than

traditional candelabra bulbs. Should a bulb burn out, replace it before continued use. In

Chris Gupta's design the bulbs act as current limiters and protect the SCR from short-

circuiting.

Note:Keep in mind that the bulbs do get hot if you are using the pulser for several

minutes at a time.

Inductor Coil: If you want to go the easy way like me, and don't want to go through the

hassle of building your own coil, two options can purchased from Madisound Speaker

Components, Inc.This link will take you to the correct page on their web site. You are

wanting the Sidewinder 2.5 mH 16AWG Air Core Inductor Coil($20.60). One can also

use the Solen 2.5 mH Perfect Lay Inductors 14 AWG ($32). The 14 gauge coil is quite

heavy and measures about 3 inches across. I recommend the Sidewinder as long as

it's identical to the photo shown on the Madisound web site. Some time ago thecompany began to outsource their coils to another company that was using a clear

polycarbonate bobbin. Not the nylon one seen in the photo. The new coils on the

polycarbonate bobbin are NOT well suited for use as a mag pulser coil. So my

recommendation is to call Madisound before ordering.

Note 1: The AMS coil that is listed in numerous Beck texts as an alternative to building

your own, is no longer manufactured.

Connecting the Inductor Coil and the Switch: The inductor coilattaches to the

Cathode of the SCR and to the negative 'Contact Bar' of the capacitor bank. The

push-to-makeswitch attaches to the gate of the SCR and to one of the following:

directly to the + buss or contact bar of the capacitor bank, between the positive buss

buss of the capacitor bank and the anode of the SCR (See Photos), or directly to the

anode of the SCR. However when you hook up the switch, keep in mind there is a 10K

resistor between the switch and Anode of the SCR.

Photo Flash Capacitors:The ability of a capacitor to store a charge is measured in

'Farads'. Most capacitors are labeled in Micro Farads (uF). The photo-flash capacitors

you see in the tray below, all came from one run to a local drug store that does photo
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/solen-14-awg-perfect-lay/solen-2.5-mh-perfect-lay-inductors-14-awg/https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/sidewinder-16-awg/sidewinder-2.5-mh-air-core-inductor-16-awg/http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=988http://www.newark.com/aavid-thermalloy/6396bg/heat-sink/dp/99K0083


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processing. They are all from an assortment of disposable flash cameras and range

from 80uF - 160uF.

On this occasion I hit the jackpot as the camera recycle bin was full. I could have

selected twice as many. Different camera manufactures and even cameras from the

same company will often have caps of different ratings, ranging anywhere from 330V

80uF - 330V 160uF, and on occasion even higher. Larger capacitors with higher

voltage and uF ratings can store more energy. When hooked up in parallel the uF

ratings are cumulative. Two capacitors rated at 330V 80uF hooked up in parallel, will

have a combined rating of 330V 160uF. When hooked up in series, it is the voltage

rating that increases. The same two capacitors hooked up in series would have a

combined rating of 660V 40uF. Note how the capcitace changes with cpacitors

hooked togetherin series. Below is a simple formula to caluclate the cpacitance of

capcitors hooked up in series

The formula to calculate the combined capacitance of capacitors hooked up inseries is as follows:

Add the reciprocals of each capacitor.

To arrive at the total capacitance, divide that number into 1.

Example:

Consider that we are hooking four 80uF capcitors together in series.

1/80 + 1/80 + 1/80 + 1/80 = 0.05

Total capacitance of the four 80uf capacitors hooked together in series = 1 / 0.05

= 20 MFD

Chris Gupta offers the following general rule of thumb about capacitors hooked

together in a parallel configuration: The voltage flowing through a set of capacitors in

parallel, should not exceed the voltage of the lowest rated capacitor. For example if

you connect a 330V 80uF capacitor and a 150V 80uF capacitor together in parallel, the

combined voltage rating of the two will be 150V.


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Capacitor Ratings From Various Cameras I Have Opened

All 330V

Kodak Power Flash: 120uF & 160uF (two slightly different models)

Kodak Zoom: 100uF & 120uF

Kodak FunSaver: 120uF

Polaroid Fun Shooter: 80uF

Studio 35: 80uF

In regard to capacitor (bank) C2, it will be difficult to find130uF capacitors from

disposable cameras. The highest rated capacitor I have been able to find from a

disposable camera is 160uF and out of over 100 cameras I have taken apart, I have

found only one with such a rating. Most photo-flash caps you will get out of a camera

are between 80uF and 120uF. Keep in mind however, one can mix and match

capacitors in parallel to arrive at the desired microfarad rating.

Click here for more information on capacitor charge calculations.

Observing Chris Gupta's circuit design, you see that his schematic calls for one 150V

130uF capacitor for capacitor C1. According to Gupta, it is OK to use photflash

capacitors in this location, so the easiest thing to do in this situation, is to use two

330V 80uF photoflash capacitors hooked together in parallel for capacitor C1 to

provide a combined capacitance of 160uF. Likewise for the capacitor array C2; if all

one had was 80uF caps to build a pulser with, one would want to add capacitors to the

array in parallel in order to reach the 650 combined uF (micro farads) called for in Chris

Gupta's design. In this case one might consider using 8 - 9, 80uF capacitors in parallel

providing a combined rating of 640uF and 720uF respectively. That is why the higher

the uF rating of the photoflash capacitor, the fewer capacitors one will have to use in

the capacitor bank C2.

The negative terminal of electrolytic capacitors is marked by a stripe running down the

side. Two 5-contact, Terminal Contact Bars were used to solder the photo flash

capacitors to. As the capacitors need to be connected in parallel, each Terminal
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/Hbase/electric/capchg.html#c2


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Contact Bar has a piece of 14 gage copper wire soldered at each contact across the

span of the bar to unify all contacts. The Negative pole of each capacitor is soldered to

one contact of the terminal contact bar and the same for the positive side of the

capacitors. Be sure the screw mounts are facing toward the outside. Once the

capacitors were soldered in place, I marked the hole locations on the Plexiglas sub-

floor and drilled the holes. The assembly was then fastened to the sub floor with 1/2

inch #4 Phillips machine screws, lock washers and nuts. See images below.

In order to avoid this whole mess of stringing capacitors together in parallel, have now

switched to using a single 1000MFD 330V Rubicon Photo-Flash capacitor for C2. Also

in compliance with Russ Torladge's (Sota Instruments) suggestion I added a high

voltage silicon rectifier across the terminals of the capacitor. Specifics and the reason

for this is explained in more detail below.

June 2016 Update.I now use a single, readily available Glan 450V 900MFD photo

flash capacitor. I noticed that the voltage in my version of Gupta's mag pulser circuit

goes as high as 400V. This is significantly higher than standard 330V photo flash

capacitors are rated for. Consequently I decided it would be safer to increase the

voltage capacity of the main (pulse) capacitor.

SOMTHING TO THINK ABOUT:Russ Torladge of Sota Instruments claims that having

a capacitor with a higher uF rating will not increase the intensity of the magnetic pulse,

but rather increases the pulse duration. So perhaps it is better to stick with a singlephoto flash capacitor in the 600 - 700 uF range. Torladge uses a single 600uF

photoflash capacitor in his mag pulser device.

Most often capacitors in spent disposable cameras will still have a charge and can

shock you if touched. If you attempt to build your own pulser, please be sure to always

discharge capacitors before removing them from a camera.

SHOCK HAZARD: If you disassemble a camera, be extremely careful when removing

the cover and handling components. Avoid touching any of the circuitry until the

capacitor has been discharged. I recently got shocked from a camera that had a 330V

80uF capacitor inside, and it really hurt! The jolt went up my whole right arm and it

took about a half an hour for my hand and arm to feel normal again. Capacitors are not

to be taken lightly and should be considered dangerous and potentially life-

threatening!

During testing, when I discharged the capacitor array, it sounded like a firecracker

going off in my ear and the tips of the 14 gage wire were slightly melted. There was a

noticeable difference in the discharge strength of seven capacitors as compared to

five. One does not want to get shocked by that! A jolt like that going across one's heart


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could be lethal! - Please be careful and always discharge capacitors, even if you think

they are not charged. Instructions to build a capacitor discharge tool that will safely

discharge a bank of capacitors is outlined above.

Making a Capacitor Discharge Tool:One can makea capacitor discharge tool with two insulated alligatorclips, about 16 inches of 14 gage stranded wire and a

10,000 ohm, wire-wound, 10 Watt resistor. Solder aninsulated alligator clip to either end of the insulatedwire. Then cut the wire about 7 inches from one end,and solder the resistor in place. Now wrap the resistorand solder points with at least three layers ofELECTRICAL TAPE.

Discharging Capacitors:Carefully connect thealligator clips to the capacitor terminals (one clip toeach exposed terminal). The resistor will drop thevoltage down in a minute or so.

Diodes:

Diodes are also directional and must be installed properly. Their primary function is to

insure the flow of current is only in one direction. This symbol

is used to indicate a diode in a circuit diagram. Current flows from the cathode side to

the anode side. If they are installed with the polarity reversed, your pulser will not work.

The stripe on any diode indicates the cathode side and the negative pole.


10/22

About flying fender washers: My washers don't fly up from the center of the coil as

with some other designs. Washers on my unit fly in line with the sides of the coil. When

experimenting with this, one needs to play around with the magnetic field until one

finds the right spot. Once I figured out the correct positioning for the washer, I was

able to get a 1-1/2 inch fender washer to soar about 40 inches into the air. Pretty

amazing!


11/22

Starting my Pulser for the First Time:I didn't know what to expect when I plugged

the chord into the outlet and pressed the on switch for the first time. The lights came

on momentarily and then went out. Chris Gupta told me this was normal.

Should you build your own machine based on this design, and after turning the unit on,

the lights come on and stay on, immediately turn the machine off and troubleshoot

your assembly! Also if the lights don't come on at all, then something is amiss as well. I

had rubber gloves on when I pressed the push-to-make switch for the first time. When

pressing the push-to-make switch the lights shown brightly and I could hear a slight

momentary sound from the wires in the coil. Again, Chris said this was normal. All was

well and I had successfully built my pulser. After repeated pulses, the coil will begin to

get warm. This too is normal.

Note:Always press and instantly release the push-to-make switch. The circuit is

designed for repeated but momentary bursts of electromagnetic pulses. Keeping the

push-to-make switch depressed will damage your pulser.

One should consider saturating the induction coil with some kind of resin and let it

cure, to prevent the wires inside the coil from moving when the machine is discharged.

The movement of wires inside the coil is in effect wasting energy that could be

converted into electromagnetic energy. Also, such movement over time can cause the

insulation of the magnet wire to wear through, and cause the coil to short out

internally. I purchased a large bottle of super glue available at most hobby stores and

poured a substantial amount into the coil. I then sprayed a little super glue catalyst

onto the coil that made the glue cure instantly on the surface. The catalyst is also

available at the same hobby shop where the glue is purchased. The catalyst is very

handy to speed up the curing process. I still let the coil sit over night before using it, to

make sure all of the glue had cured on the inside. Be careful when doing this, because


12/22

super glue will instantly bond skin. Also one also doesn't want to inadvertently glue the

coil to whatever it is sitting on. Use acetone for cleanup

Chris Gupta's Instructions and parts List:

Well finally, I have got all the wrinkles out my prototype SCR Thumpy. And this circuit

has definitely got the power. You can actually feel an electric current pulse when used

in the neck area - uncanny! This is subtle however. I hasten to add that power is not

the be all and end all, indeed, it is quite possible to design very effective low power

pulsers with exceptionally fast pulse rise times that can surpass the performance of

even the most powerful pulser. Unlike the high power pulsers these minimize dangers

from electromagnetic radiation. So be warned and don't get carried away with the lure

of high power! It has been long known amongst alternate energy and electromedicine

researchers that very high speed pulses have the ability to tap into some form of

radiant energy that is generally not recognized by mainstream science. Devices with

very weak but high speed pulses in nanosecond range have been build and

efficaciously used by NASA engineers. This is a well known phenomena and I have

worked it out mathematically to my satisfaction. More on this at a later date. One

theory is that such weak high speed pulses are able to by pass the cell

electromagnetic defences by their sheer speed but certainly there are other issues a

play such as tapping radiant energy... For a better description on this please see Dr.

Glen Gordon's video here.Dr. Gordon was a candidate for a heart transplant but

managed to rebuild his own heart by just such a device.

See also: BIOELECTROMAGNETIC MEDICINE - THE BOOK

Please note that this is not a permanent magnet but a pulsed magnet and as such the

polarity is not an issue, when the pulse collapses the magnetic field reverses. Hence

one need not worry about the magnetic polarity.

I still don't like the auto types as the body gets habituated to non random pulses theonly exceptions are possilbly the natural beat frequency of the Earth magnetic field

(9.6 Hz) AND the Schumann waves (7.83 Hz) - a random pulser circuit is still the goal

but due to great demand, much against my will, have now included a constant pulsing

option for those who requested it. For the sake of simplicity a neon lamp is used.

Unfortunately neons are not very stable and tend to vary as time goes by and may

need to be replaced so use a socket for a quick change. The pulsing rate can be

changed and should be changed every so often so the body does not get

habituated, to that end I have added a switch to change the pulse rates...

To calculate the output energy use the following:

Formula: W=(CE^2)/2
http://www.newmediaexplorer.org/chris/2004/09/16/bioelectromagnetic_medicine_the_book.htmhttp://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5695988460216444662


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W=energy in joules: C = Capacitance in farads: E = Voltage across Capacitor in volts

# capacitors #Joules

5* 29

6 35

7 41

*Present circuit.

More on Capacitor Charge Calculatio re.

Any SCR with PEAK current of at least 600 to 1000 amps should work. The one shown

is 20 amp continuous with the appropriate peak rating. The lamps act as current

limiters and protect the SCR against a short circuit. The circuit can be further

simplified as discussed in point 3 below.

I have build several of these and my experience has been:

1) The capacitors develop a memory and don't fully discharge its better to use a

number of them in parallel. This reduces the internal resistance and provides a better

result and less memory loss. The caps must be designed for flash applications. They

need not all be the same value but must be the minimum voltage rating stated.

2) In the original Beck based designs the flash tube heats and develops some

resistance so you need to have enough time between flashes for them to cool down.

This has been eliminated in my circuit, however, you still need some time for the

capacitors to charge up. The larger the capacitor bank the longer it will take to charge

up. Those planning to incorporate the automatic version must be mindful of this and

adjust the timer circuit to compensate this effect.

3) Using a high current SCR (forces the caps to fully discharge by providing a longer

connection than the strobe) and parallel caps from disposable cameras I can now

consistently get 12 - 18 inch jumps with #14 fender washers. You can cycle them very

fast (though not recommended). All for less than $30 to $50 Cdn. The most expensive

part is the coil which can cost as much a $20 unless you build it yourself! One can

further reduce the cost if at a latter date you don't want to upgrade to auto pulsing.

This can be accomplished by removing the 10k resistor and the SCR and by simply

wiring the a push to close switch in line to the coil. Don't recommend this unless you

just can't get an SCR or really need to reduce cost. MAKE SURE THE PUSH BUTTON

SWITCH CAN HANDLE THE CURRENT AND IS MECHANICALLY ROBUST!

More info regarding other coils options etc. is available at:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/Hbase/electric/capchg.html#c2


14/22

http://www.keelynet.com/biology/thumind.htm

Coil winding instructions from Dr. Beck's paper are:

"Junk VHS videocassette reels are cheap, plentiful and adequate for this application.

Remove 5 screws from shell, remove reels and discard tape. Be SURE alternative

spools (if used) are non-conductive or system will not work. Avoid shorter length VHS

tape reels which may have center hubs larger than 1" dia. and won't hold sufficientwire. Drill 1/4" holes through hub and through center of flange(s). Make two 4" discs

from 1/4" thick plastic or fiberboard, drill 1/4" center holes and another 1/4" hole off-

center so coil's inside lead wire can be pulled through. These 'stiffeners' will sandwich

reel's flanges so they won't warp or split as wire pressure builds up while winding

progresses. A 2" (or longer) 1/4-20 machine nut and bolt with washers through centers

will clamp flange stiffeners and reel and also provide a shaft to hold in a variable speed

drill motor or similar winding device if used. Then remove bolt and stiffeners.

Specifications: Completely fill tape spool with #14 or 16 enameled copper magnet wire

(130 to 160 turns) wound onto the 1" dia. hub and 3-1/2" OD spool with a gap width for

wire of 5/8". Scrape enamel insulation 1/2" from ends and tin. Pull inside end of magnet

wire through hub and stiffener and to outside. ~130 turns (about About 1-1/2 lbs

should fill spool. Remove bolt, stiffeners, and finished coil. Now solder ends of 3 ft of

heavy two-wire extension cord to each side of coil. Finished coil weighs ~1 LB 3 oz, has

~0.935 millihenry inductance, 0.34 ohm resistance, and takes ~20 minutes to handwind or ~3 minutes with drill motor. An excellent alternative is an AMS brand air-core

crossover inductor for home audio, #16 gauge, 2.5mH, 2-1/2" dia., $17.90 from

Madisound speaker components.

Chris Gupta's EM Pulser Circuit
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/sidewinder-16-awg/sidewinder-2.5-mh-air-core-inductor-16-awg/http://www.keelynet.com/biology/thumind.htm


15/22

Those interested in using a 12 V DC source use a cheap 75 watt car inverter I bought

one on sale for just $7 Cdn! Simply remove one of the bulbs. This of course is easier if

at least one bulb is in a socket.


16/22

Most Current Chris Gupta Magnetic Pulser Info and Photos

I recently switched to using a single Rubicon 330V 1000MFD photo flash

capacitor and also to a new surface mount SCR (details above in SCR section). I

purchased the new capcitor for $10 on E-Bay.

I also followed Russ Torlage's recommendation and installed a MR756 silicone

rectifier diode across the capacitor's terminals in order to prevent current from

traveling back across the capacitor an damaging or destroying it. Below in italics,is what Russ Torladge, owner of Sota Instruments has to say about it.

The main on/off switch is an illuminated rocker switch I purchased at Radio

Shack.

The switch to fire the gate on the SCR is a momentary toggle switch. I created a

grounding connector for the momentary switch out of a piece of thick copper

plate that I had laying around.

Strain reliefs have been implemented for both cables coming into the box.

This is a pretty powerful EMP device! I did notice recently that this big 1000 MFD

capacitor takes a full six to seven seconds to charge.

"When the capacitor gets fully charged, we must dump this high energy into the coil

somehow. Originally a Xenon photoflash tube was used as a thyratron switch (the

Xenon gas is ignited to a plasma which provides a low impedance path for the electron

flow) for the do-it-yourself'ers. The Xenon tube presents about 1-3 ohms of resistancewhen ionized. It makes a good switch, but it does restrict peak current flow. Ringing

can and does occur with the capacitor-coil combination because the current can back-

feed into the capacitor. (This ringing affect can allow reverse-biasing of the main

capacitor; degrading it's life-span very quickly or destroying the capacitor under

extreme conditions.) When a capacitor is in series with an inductor in this manner, it is

known as an L-C (Inductive from the coil and Capacitive from the capacitor) circuit.

Xenon tubes get hot, and they waste energy in the form of heat and (of course) light. A

better switch is an SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) of appropriate voltage and current

rating (800-1000 Volts @ 25 Amps is a good start.). An SCR provides a one-way path

of current flow from capacitor to coil, inherently preventing ringing and therefore

saving the capacitor from reverse-biasing. This one-way path ensures the output

magnetic field is DC based or uni-polar. This means North magnetic pole will always be

on one side of the coil, and will not change to South pole at any time.

NOTE: Although a typical SCR is a fast operating device, there will always be a "dead-

time" where the device is in a conductive state (known as tq which is typically = 35uS).

This can allow reverse voltages to appear across the main capacitor which may

eventually lead to a much shortened lifetime or the complete destruction of the

capacitor. So, in order to prevent such an event we need to suppress this high-power


17/22

content reverse voltage spike across the main capacitor. The simplest, effective and

most economical way is to place a high-current diode in reverse, across the leads of

the main capacitor. The CATHODE (-) lead of the diode connects to the POSITIVE (+)

terminal of the capacitor. Remember, this reverse-voltage spike can contain many

joules so you must use an adequately rated diode. We use an MR756 silicon rectifier. It

is rated at 600 Volts DC, 6 Amps continuous and 400 Amps peak surge. I measured

over 80 Amps of current in the reverse-voltage spike. WARNING: If you do not use a

similar rated diode, it may very well blow up in your face! I know, because I had this

happen many times while taking measurements. Scares the heck out of you!"

March 28, 2015


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Please post any successes, failures, comments or questions on on my FaceBook

Page.

Some individuals have posted claims that Chris' design is flawed. I for one, can attest

that his design is sound and works well. If after constructing your device it fails to

work, it is most certainly an error in construction. If your device does not work, the

capacitor polarity may be incorrect, one or more diodes may have incorrect polarity, a

component may be burned out or defective, or there is an error somewhere in how

things were assembled and soldered. Watch for any arching on your component board.

Update MAR/23/2016 My bulbless, auto-pulsing Bob Beck mag pulser is here!

Price $399. For more information and to purchase this device please click on This Link.
http://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.htmlhttps://www.facebook.com/pages/Steffans-Violet-Ray-Violet-Wand-Shop/1596428067237456


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http://www.twotowers.com/products/bob_beck_protocol/beck_devices.html

my home-made bob beck magnetic pulser

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