morocco 2018 trip report - wildlife travel

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018

WILDLIFE TRAVEL

Morocco 2018

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 # DATE LOCATIONS AND NOTES 1

3 March

Outbound from Manchester and Gatwick to Agadir Al-Massira Airport; transfer to Atlas Kasbah.

2

4 March

Atlas Kasbah and Tighanimine El Baz (Valley of the Eagle).

3

5 March

Taroudant, Tioute Palmery and women's argan oil co-operative.

4

6 March

Anti Atlas: Ait Baha and Agadir at Laatik.

5

7 March

Sous Massa National Park; Sahelo-Saharan megafauna.

6

8 March

Atlantic coast: Oued Tamri and Cap Rhir.

7

9 March

Western High Atlas: Cascades du Imouzzer.

8

10 March

Atlas Kasbah and local area; evening return flights to UK.

Leaders Charlie Rugeroni Mike Symes Front cover: Polygala balansae (Charlie Rugeroni)

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 Day One: Saturday 3 March. Outbound from Manchester and Gatwick to Agadir Al-Massira Airport; transfer to Atlas Kasbah. As the day dawned and stretched awake in snowbound Britain, treacherous with ice underfoot, conspiring to prevent us from leaving our driveways, let alone fly to warmer climes, we hoped that fellow participants had made it to their respective airports. Fortunately, all but one of us were successfully translocated, yet it was not long before the last of our lot would join us under Moroccan… cloud and rain. Once through passport control and currency exchange, the Gatwick few met up with Mohamed, our local guide and driver, and we waited for the Manchester group. Once united, we made our way in the wet evening gloom to our home range for the week - the fine Atlas Kasbah. On arrival, M’bark, Rasheeda and Fatima welcomed us to the Kasbah and Hussein was ready with the first of our splendid 'little teas'; tonight's basil. Moroccan bread and black olives, lentil and chickpea soup, then a delightful fish tagine, followed by a typical Moroccan dessert, a milk and almond pastilla and the second of our 'little teas', thyme, and we were ready for bed. Day Two: Sunday 4 March. Atlas Kasbah and Tighanimine El Baz (Valley of the Eagle). We awoke to the fluting song of Common Bulbuls, wind and rain with the Kasbah enveloped in an unseasonal grey duvet of cloud - mild but wet. The bulbuls could be heard and then seen from the terrace, competing for attention with the Tighanimine cockerels; both ushering us to breakfast. At a briefing, we learned of our itinerary for the week, revised slightly to take account of the weather, and appreciated why this area had been chosen by Wildlife Travel. Here on the south western slopes of the High Atlas we had access to a diverse and interesting flora and wildlife generally. The mix of alpine, coastal and semi-desert habitats were sprinkled with western Mediterranean, North African and Macaronesian influences. Over the next few days we would encounter endemic plant species, birds and other wildlife that would demonstrate the character and special distinctiveness of this area. Even before leaving the Kasbah car-park we had Periploca angustifolia, an interesting coastal shrub of Morocco and Spain; it had rather fleshy narrow leaves, horn-like fruits and wine-red and green stellate flowers with an unusual morphology. As we wound our way through the Kasbah gardens some of the plants spotted in the top garden included: Acalypha, Pokeweed Phytolacca, Cottonwood Hibiscus tiliaceus, Plumbago and Gazania. The lower slopes of the garden provided our first encounter with some of trip's specialities, like Cladanthus arabicus, beginning to flower. This North African annual produces masses of large, scented, orange flowers in a mound of fragrant, feathery foliage; a superb plant which could grace any front of border at home. Another superb plant here was Volutaria lippii, small plants similar to knapweed, with bright violet/pink flower heads. We were introduced to arguably the single most important plant of the region, one of the icons of this corner of Morocco, Argan Argania spinosa; a plant that would accompany us for much of our time over the next week. Argan belongs to the family Sapotaceae, and today Argan forests are confined to this corner of southern Morocco, centred in the Sous Valley; a relic from the time when this area had a tropical climate. The trees, their fruit and the oil which comes from the 'nut' are at the heart of much of the local culture and economy; being used for culinary and health purposes, for feeding animals and in much traditional architecture. The area of Argan forest has shrunk by some 50% over the last 100 years, owing to charcoal-making, grazing, and increasingly intensive cultivation. The best hope for the conservation of the trees lay in the recent development of a thriving export market for argan oil. Argan forests now cover some 8,000 km² and are designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. One of the features of the garden at the Atlas Kasbah (developed with sustainability in mind) is a filtration system for the 'grey water' from the hotel, which is used to irrigate the garden, delineated by a Myoporum tenuifolium hedge planted to act as an evergreen wind break along the northern and southern boundaries of the garden. Growing round the pools used in this filtration system was Sweet Potato Ipomoea batata.

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 We took a right turn out of the Kasbah and along the road and into a field with limestone bedrock for a track. Spiny plants such as the 'chicken-wire bush' Launaea arborescens (with its tiny yellow flowers) and the thorny Zizyphus lotus (regarded as the lotus tree of Greek mythology) were used as hedges around the fields. Withania frutescens with small green bell flowers was present here as was Asphodelus fistolusus, whose leaves are laced with silica crystals, and the sticky, smelly Ononis natrix, with yellow flowers. As well as the ever-present bulbuls, bird highlights included Serin, with their bright tinkling song, Sardinian and Western Subalpine Warblers, Tree Pipit, obliging Woodchat Shrikes and a very smart Moussier’s Redstart - a real speciality of the area. We also saw the local subspecies of Magpie, the Maghreb Magpie, with its blue eye surround and smaller white shoulder patch than the nominate form we are used to back home. The largely overcast conditions were not particularly attractive for butterflies, with only Small White and Greenish Black-tip recorded. Here and there and under the Argan trees there was a 'near riot' of colour from the lovely little purple toadflax Linaria bipartite; a Moroccan endemic, forming Moroccan rugs, if not carpets, of purple. Once we picked one out we then saw hundreds of them - a dwarf iris Moraea sisyrinchium, too early in the day for its flower to be open. Dipcadi serotinum, Emex spinosa, Eruca sativa (the Brassica), Plantago afra, Calendula arvensis, the ferny-leaved Lavandula multifida, Fagonia cretica, Echium horridum and the tiny enchanting grass Lamarckia aurea kept us going till we reached a farm where the farmer took us to see his camels and family. In the compound we saw both modern and traditional style bee-hives, the latter using cane, and mud, with a tiny opening at one end. On our return some of the Moraea flowers were open and we came across the yellow flowered Nanorrhinum heterophylla, which appeared to hang in midair, on thread-like stems, and the endemic Vachellia gummifera, associated with Argan, and an invaluable shrub/tree for the nomads of southern Morocco. After a delicious lunch of vegetable tagine, carrot/orange/banana smoothie and a 'little Rosemary tea' inside the hotel’s new extension with full views of the nearby valley, and two soaring kettles of White Storks, we set off to explore the nearby village with Ahmed, our guide for the afternoon. It wasn't long before Ahmed was chatting away with French speaking members of the group. As we wandered past a bank (of earth) that led down to the river, there, picked out by afternoon sun were more Dipcadi and the eye-catching squat, white-flowered Androcymbium gramineum. The heavy rains of the previous week were now evident in the good flow of water in the river, normally dry save for the odd pool. Stepping stones allowed us to ford the river more or less without getting wet feet. North African Water Frogs croaked nearby and we climbed past stands of Prickly Pear/Barbary Fig Opuntia ficus-barbarica, a widely naturalised and invasive species, with Ephedra fragilis sprawled over it, and a second cactus growing by a building in the old village largely depopulated now, Austrocylindropuntia subulata. Around the new village Black Wheatears, Laughing Doves, House Buntings and Spotless Starlings posed nicely on the semi-finished rooftops, with Kestrel, Red-rumped Swallow and more White Storks overhead. The view from the top of the path onto the valley was that of a classic Moroccan scene. After a warming shower we gathered in the Salon for a demonstration of a traditional Moroccan tea ceremony enacted by M’bark. This 'little tea' was of Absinthe. Supper was next: a duck tagine preceded by Moroccan lentils and onion tart, and all followed by a selection of typical Moroccan cakes. The species lists were set down in front of an open fire. Day Three: 5 March. Taroudant, Tioute Palmery and women's argan oil co-operative. The day dawned cloudy grey, with sunny spells. We struck out east for Taroudant at 0900 along the PAR RN11; fields and gulleys showing an amount of surface water. The effects of the torrential rain were evident in the ox-blood earth washed on to the roads. Hedges of Vachellia ehrenbergiana embraced orange groves which, on occasion, hid herds of camel. This, the Sous valley, is an important area for

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 agriculture, with fruit and salad crops grown under polythene for export to northern Europe. Near Oulad Brahmin a lucky few of us caught sight of a Lanner Falcon from the minibus. Taroudant, with its mud plastered walls dating back to the 16th Century is an impressive sight on arrival. Just outside the city walls a shout of raptors stopped the vehicle and out we trooped to spot Black Kites along with soaring White Storks and a large flock of around 100 Cattle Egrets flying across the city. The impressive camel-coloured city walls contrasted with a backdrop of battleship-grey clouds. Pulling up at the Hotel Palais Salam de Taroudant, tucked away inside the city walls, we came face to face with an impressive flowering Tropical Hydrangea/Pink Ball Tree Dombeya wallichii from East Africa and Asia. This fabulous hotel took us to a place of shade and tranquillity, a world away from the hustle and bustle of the town at work. Once a Saadi palace, the hotel’s courtyards embodied elements of traditional Islamic gardens as being places of rest and reflection alongside running water and, importantly, a reminder of the promised paradise. In the cool of the hotel's interior, surrounded by Berber tile mosaics and Arabic wall designs, Mohamed explained the fascinating history of Morocco's tribes, turbulent colonial past and its significance to Taroudant's market town beginnings; situated on a major caravan route between the north and the Sahara. The inner courtyard with its central fountain and bathed in the dappled shade of immense and ancient fig trees, flowering banana plants and Loquats Eriobotrya japonica, led us into what was once the harem garden, complete with a monumental Rubber Tree Ficus elastica, its buttress roots snaking their way across the flower bed and on to the patio. The main garden, a mix of exotics, succulents, native trees and shrubs, dwarfed the old building. Here we found a piece of paradise as we sat by the pool drinking coffee or orange juice among the hibiscus and a magnificent flowering trumpet vine Hawaiian Lily Solandra maxima, with its chalice-like flowers in full bloom. Up above us Kestrels flew and called noisily, and a few more Black Kites and White Storks passed overhead. House Buntings sang from the garden walls, whilst in a nearby pool five Moorish Terrapins sat disconsolately. A walk round and on to the city walls gave us views over the town and to the snow-capped High Atlas beyond to the east, with plenty of zooming Pallid and several Little Swifts. A sizeable flock of Cattle Egrets, brilliant white against the grey skies, flew off from a rooftop roost. In downtown Taroudant we visited the medina, where we sampled fresh dates and embarked on retail opportunities offered by various stalls offering spices, soaps, dry fennel toothpicks, table cloths and leather goods. We left Taroudant in a light drizzle and headed south towards the edge of the Anti-Atlas, a much lower and older range of mountains than the High Atlas to the north. After pausing to watch and photograph some tree-climbing goats by the roadside we reached the village of Tioute, where we stopped at the palmery to eat our picnic lunch, more coffee and fresh orange juice and were joined by Stephanie after she was hotfooted to us from the airport by one of Mohamed’s colleagues. After lunch we set off on a walk along the irrigation channels that are the life blood of the palmery, which shaded numerous small and not so small allotments. A donkey's bray ricocheted from Date Palm to Date Palm Phoenix dactylifera. Lining the irrigation channels was the familiar Maidenhair Fern Adiantum capillus-veneris, along with the occasional Brookweed Samolus valerandi. Other water demanding plants included White Poplar Populus alba and Carob Cerotina siliqua. Among the trees, fields of Alfalfa, broad beans and barley were growing and here, at the edges, we came across Asparagus albus, the delicate pink-flowered Lathyrus clymenum and the bright Vicia benghalensis, along with the pink sprawling Mallow Bindweed Convolvolus altaheoides. Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Grey Wagtail, Serin, Spanish Sparrow and Moussier’s Redstart were all seen, and we also had good views of the North African race of Chaffinch, with its somewhat washed-out plumage. In the relatively cool weather insects were thin on the ground, but we did see more Greenish Black-tip butterflies and several very well-camouflaged hopping cone-headed grasshoppers, specifically the Splendid Cone-headed Grasshopper Truxalis nasuta, which resembles a stick insect.


Top: Black-crowned Tchagra; Moroccan Hairstreak. Middle: Hottentotta gentili; Spur-thighed Tortoise; Bath White. Bottom: Dutchman's Pipe; House Bunting (Mike Symes)

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 Along one track and at the end of it by a dry water course, climbed the intriguing Dutchman's Pipe Aristolochia baetica, in flower and in fruit - this is the foodplant of the Spanish Festoon. Nearby was the day's floral highlight, which came in the form of a plant first seen on Wildlife Travel's first Morocco trip in 2011 and still flowering in the same spot; Linaria ventricosa, a tall multi-stalked endemic toadflax with exquisite yellow-ochre flowers, tinged maroon venation, and with a mid-lip capped in fine golden hairs - this was the orange form of this plant. Our final stop was at the Argan cooperative in the village; a mixture of both modern and the traditional, from the room of local Berber women cracking the nuts by hand, through to the pressing machine and bottling process. This is the second oldest cooperative in Morocco, founded in 2001, and our purchases here represented a direct way to return money to the community. Rain and drizzle were our constant companions on our way back, metamorphosing to proper rain on our arrival at the Kasbah. A supper of sweet tasting couscous salad, followed by pastilla with chicken, almonds, herbs, sultanas and spices encased in a light 'puff-pastry-like-pastry' and a dessert of layers of apple and confectioner's custard with langue de chat style biscuits, put a delicious full stop to a wonderful day. Day Four: Tuesday 6 March. Anti Atlas: Ait Baha and Agadir at Laatik. The unseasonably cool and wet weather continued this morning as we set off south-east in the direction of Biougra. Camels were spotted en-route again, or was it the effect of last night’s incense..? The feathery Retama monosperma, with its white flowers lined the road in many places. At Biougra it was the palm tree Washingtonia which replaced Retama along the streets and square, with much surface water around. A rubbish tip provided a good spot to see Cattle Egrets at close quarters with Yellow (subspecies iberiae) and Grey Wagtails, and some grubby-looking White Storks. Shortly after this we stopped at an innocuous looking field but therein were the grey-leaved fleshy specimens, up to 3-4 metres tall of a predominantly Saharan species, Calotropis procera, in the Apocynaceae. This highly poisonous plant, with the delightful English name of Sodom’s Apple Milkweed, is the larval foodplant of the Plain Tiger, a butterfly related to the Monarch. The caterpillars feed on the toxic plants and are able to tolerate and sequester the plant's steroidal heart poison as a form of defence, making them inedible to predators. The small but beautifully formed Mathiola parviflora was dotted around the ochre-coloured earth with Erodium hesperium and, over the fence the delicately-flowered Elizaldia calycina, Lupinus consentinii, Silene sp., Teucrium fruticans, the small blue flowered Macaronesian Mairetis microsperma (Echium-like) grew here among many others, but regrettably out of reach behind a thorny hedge. Birds here included a pair of colourful Hoopoe, Pallid Swift, Greenfinch and Thekla Lark, which is confusingly similar to Crested Lark but with good views can be differentiated by its heavier black streaking on the breast, slightly shorter, stubbier bill and more contrasting rump pattern when seen in flight from behind. However, arguably the highlight of this productive stop came in the form of a first for Wildlife Travel on these trips; a Mediterranean Chameleon Chamaeleo chamaeleon scrambling about in the thorny hedge - a wonderfully quirky animal. After stopping to admire Black Wheatear and Spanish Sparrow we arrived at Ait Baha around mid morning. First stop here was at the Hotel Al Adarissa for a coffee and some bird watching from its terrace: House Bunting, Chiffchaff, Kestrel and cronking Ravens were all noted. The town; the last main settlement before the Anti-Atlas seemed well-off and Mohamed explained how many of the Berbers here had made their money working in mining in France. After a spot of Berber shoe shopping at the traditional local cobblers, we headed further up into the Anti-Atlas. Rain fell as we continued to climb, this region containing some of the oldest rocks in the world: a very ancient mountain range, which began its genesis around 300 million years ago and once rivalled the Himalayas in height. Today it is eroded, the highest peaks between 2,500-2,700m. In comparison the more recent High Atlas only reached their maximum height within the last 10 million years: Jbel Toubkal is

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 4,167m. A major feature of the Anti-Atlas is the highly folded rock strata, numerous valleys and rounded peaks, with many villages still living their traditional lifestyles. Onwards to our next stop at the small village of Laatik, to visit an ancient agadir, a fortified grain store dating from the time, some 700 years ago, when local Berber tribes still fought each other. The buildings are typical of the Anti-Atlas; others were seen during the day perched on outcrops with commanding views. It was a treat to be taken inside the agadir by the local custodian to see the wonderful old architecture, the store rooms accessed by 'stepping stones' up the wall, a well for freshwater to survive any siege, the prison and a chance to look inside the store rooms themselves. Lunch was taken here. Within its walls we could hear and then see House Buntings, while Spur-thighed Tortoises of varying sizes emerged from the shadows. Just outside the walls, interesting plants included an endemic, the white flowered labiate Sideritis villosa, and the sweetly-smelling yellow composite Cladanthus arabicus. On our return drive down the mountain we stopped at an area of rocky hillside covered with Argan trees and Euphorbia officinarum, here growing in the beautifully tight cushions of the echinarum form (considered by some to be a distinct subspecies). This was an impressive, well-built plant. In the small limestone rock crevices the fern Consentia vellea was seen looking a little bedraggled. More Androcymbium was growing at this 'rock garden'. The first of the Scorpions was spotted here, Buthus sp.; small and yellow, with a dark body. The rain continued as we retraced our steps. Giant Fennel Ferula communis was looking impressive and with the rain drops clinging to its florets, it made a good picture. A last stop proved to be memorable for its magnificent scent: on one side of the road we encountered another endemic, the yellow flowered Hesperolaburnum platycarpum (its stems used to make Berber baskets such as those seen in the agadir), and on the other side were stands of Retama monosperma - both smelling sweetly in the wet afternoon. After a quick coffee/tea to warm up, it was back home. Once again storks were on the move and this was very evident as we approached the Kasbah with many coming down to land for the night amongst the Argan trees and on pylons, in preparation for moving on at first light. As we returned to the hotel, we were lucky enough to spot a Black-crowned Tchagra perched in a tree. This very skulking species, a member of the bush-shrike family, then stayed put and allowed us all to get good views of this North African speciality. Incredibly, as we watched the Tchagra one of the group noticed our second chameleon of the day in the same tree! This was a smaller individual than the one seen this morning, and together with its plainer green colouration suggested it was a juvenile. There was time to freshen up before reconvening to go through the day's sightings before dinner. Day Five: Wednesday 7 March. Sous Massa National Park; Sahelo-Saharan megafauna. Mohamed arrived this morning at the head of a convoy of five 4-wheel drives, which would take us to the Sous Massa National Park (NP). After a short introduction to the NP at the centre, and a walk around the centre where we saw an interesting assemblage of plants (Elizaldia, Atriplex, Limonium, Cladanthus), we entered the Rokein Special Reserve, a 2,000ha enclosure within the National Park. The 'Sahelo-Saharan megafauna' is one of the most endangered assemblages of large animals in the world; threatened by a lack of grazing through competition with domestic livestock, primarily goats and camels, and overhunting, with increasing numbers of high powered weapons. Once widespread across the arid regions of North Africa, almost all the large mammals of the Sahara are now extremely rare in the wild: four important members of the 'Sahelo-Saharan megafauna' have been 'rewilded' here in the Sous Massa NP. The first of these was the Addax, a large sandy to almost ghostly white antelope; a native of stony and sandy areas out in the Sahara proper, now down to as few as just three individuals in the wild but obviously doing very well here as we saw good numbers, including couples showing courting behaviour and mating, and females with young. We also enjoyed great views of Red-necked Ostriches, seen feeding on Retama flowers or the insects thereon. This North African subspecies is the largest of the Ostriches, making it the largest bird in the

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 world and was noticeably more colourful than their sub-Saharan counterparts. The males were looking particularly red flushed; in breeding mode. A large male Wild Boar was spotted in this first enclosure. Somewhat shyer were the Dorcas Gazelles, the only antelope still doing reasonably well in the wild. A rather fine looking flightless Darkling Beetle Blaps sp., well adapted to arid and semi-arid environments, was picked up at the first observation mound. It was in the buffer zone between the two enclosures that we saw several interesting birds, including Crested Lark, Short-toed Lark, Southern Grey Shrike, Cattle Egret, Northern Wheatear and a male Marsh Harrier which drifted in low over the dry scrub. However the most exciting sightings were of cryptically-plumaged Stone-curlews and a party of Cream-coloured Coursers; the coursers in particular are beautiful birds, characteristic of flat, barren semi-desert areas, and are more often encountered further south and east in Morocco, on the edge of the Sahara, so it was a treat to see them. The third of the antelopes and the largest was the elegant Scimitar-horned Oryx, with its ginger neck, tear-shaped face marking and swept back scimitar horns, found in the second enclosure within the Arrouais reserve, with an area of 1,200ha. This species is now extinct in the wild, with the population in the Sous Massa NP now the largest single herd left on the planet. Hopeful news comes from the Chad, where last year a group of captive-born animals was released into a large fenced enclosure in the Ouadi Rimé-Ouadi Achim Game Reserve, the last former stronghold of the species in the wild. In August 2016, 21 animals were released into the wild. And in September 2016 a single calf was born: the first 'wild-born' Scimitar-horned Oryx for over 30 years. Fourteen more animals were released early in 2017 and the ambitious target is to have a self-sustaining population of 500 animals within five years. Within the two enclosures, the vegetation consisted of a mix of coastal steppe, planted Eucalyptus woodland with the Australian Golden Wattle Acacia pycnantha and blocks of Retama monosperma scrub over old and not so old sand dunes. The ground flora consisted of many annuals, not all in flower, such as Erodium hesperium (another species shared between coastal Morocco and the Canary Islands), patches of Volutaria lippii, in flower and once again the little blue borage Mairetis microsperma seen over the hedge from chameleon field, the small dandelion-like annual Hedypnois cretica (the most visible yellow composite in the reserve). A low-growing dwarf shrub, in much of the open steppe area of the first enclosure was Helianthemum confertum, with lemon yellow flowers, and inside the second enclosure we found a second Helianthemum; the low growing Helianthemum lippii, and a little sedge Cyparus capitatus. A noticeable and dominating sub-shrub in the buffer zone was the strong sweet smelling endemic Nauplius imbricatus and the lovely Adonis aestivalis. Just before we left the Arrouais enclosure we came upon a beautiful Moroccan Atlantic coast endemic, Ismelia versicolor, the tricolour chrysanthemum. A splendid male Lesser Kestrel and a pretty little False Baton Blue butterfly were also seen in the second enclosure. With the advancing sea mist we made our way to our lunch spot which brought a nice surprise to Jill - a large Praying Mantis Sphodromantis viridis on her trousers. A 'quick' retail fix in Aladdin's pottery cave, and then we were off for some bird-watching on the banks of the Oued Souss estuary. Almost immediately we spotted an Osprey perched on a telegraph pole, while on the banks of the river we saw many species including Spoonbill, Black-winged Stilt, Ruff, Black-tailed Godwit, Avocet, Little Stint, Grey Plover and a distant flock of Greater Flamingos. A Moroccan Wagtail, with its heavier black head markings, could be seen on the far bank, and gulls were represented by Mediterranean and Little amongst the commoner species. A few Sandwich Terns and a single Gull-billed Tern were also added to our growing bird list. A very full and enjoyable day was ended with another superb evening meal: a beef tagine after an apple and cabbage salad all followed by an Atlas Kasbah cake to honour of Jill's birthday. Ahmed our guide to Tighanimine played his guitar during our meal, including a memorable 'Happy Birthday'. Day Six: Thursday 8 March. Atlantic coast: Oued Tamri and Cap Rhir. Early misty morning with a promise of sunshine. Between the amlou (argan oil, almonds and honey) and the Moroccan breakfast Harira soup, there was a 'Tchagra' shout. Sure enough, there on the garden wall

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 was the bird in question, which was clearly setting up territory as it foraged around the shrubs and frequently sang its mournful whistling song - a great start to the day. Today was the day that we should have had on Monday, but didn’t on account of the weather. We hoped for sunshine today as we headed north, skirting the city of Agadir, and duly got it. As we left the immediate surroundings of the city, the vegetation began to change, with low-growing coastal steppe on the flatter ground mixing with areas of succulent Euphorbia scrub. On arrival at the Atlantic coast stop, just beyond Cap Rhir we were impressed by the strikingly spikey habitat. These succulent chiefly Euphorbia-dominated scrub communities are unique to the south-west Moroccan coastline down into the Sahara and across to the Canary Islands. They are a botanical link between this part of Morocco and the flora of the North Atlantic islands - Macaronesian flora. In the geological past this flora would have been more widespread on the mainland, becoming confined to these climatically favourable areas during recent cycles of glaciations. Here the vegetation comprised a mix of three succulent species: the dome-forming lime-green shrubby Euphorbia regis- jubae (found here and in the Canary Islands); the cactus-like Euphorbia officinarum (found in Southern Morocco and down to Mauretania); and the bizarre succulent groundsel Kleinia anteuphobium (endemic to Morocco) - last year’s flowers giving away its family. Also making up parts of this habitat were the yellow endemic composite Nauplius imbricatus, Salsola oppositifolia with its leathery leaves; and close by, the tiny purple flowered Lycium imbricatum. Two lavenders growing near each other: the 'fern-leaved' Lavandula multifida and Lavandula dentata var. candicans, with narrow velvety-grey leaves and smaller flowers and a more medicinal scent. Other plants spotted included the endemic sea lavender, Limonium mucronatum, with the wonderfully wavy-crinkly stems, the bizarre deep maroon spikes of Cynomorium coccineum, recalling periscopes emerging from the old sand dunes, Mesembryanthemum crystallinum, the alien looking rubber-like Cistanche phelypaea, which was emerging practically everywhere, the sea-spurrey Spergularia fimbriata, and Reseda alba. The colourful Malcomia littorea dotted the more open sandy areas and we admired two types of sea-heath, Frankaenia laevis with the larger flowers and leaves bearing a whitish crust and Frankaenia boissieri, with smaller flowers and thyme-like leaves, forming domed mini-shrubs. Eryngium maritimum was also present, though not in flower. Amongst this interesting floral assemblage we found some good birds too including Moussier's Redstart, Black Wheatear, Barbary Partridge, Linnet, Kestrel and another two Black-crowned Tchagra. Warblers comprised the ubiquitous Sardinian, plus Western Subalpine and a territorial Spectacled Warbler singing from the top of a bush, looking a bit like a small, bright Common Whitethroat that we are more familiar with from back home. We were also treated to a fly-past by two Northern Bald Ibis; once widespread across southern and central Europe, North Africa and parts of the Middle East, this species is now critically endangered. The decline of the Bald Ibis was due to various factors including pesticide poisoning, hunting, disturbance at their nest sites and, more recently, loss of feeding habitat to coastal development, and they reached a low of only around 100 birds by the mid-1990s. Thankfully the Moroccan population has been a conservation success story with the population now numbering over 600 individuals split between two nesting areas: at Tamri, where we would visit shortly, and in the Sous Massa NP. The warmer weather today had brought some butterflies out, and we saw Moroccan Orange-tip, Clouded Yellow, Common Blue and Moroccan Hairstreak. By looking under a few stones we found another Buthus sp. Scorpion and also the diminutive endemic Moroccan Lizard-toed Gecko; a beautifully marked little reptile. Our next stop was at the mouth of the Oued Tamri, where we took lunch under a brilliant sun and the hungry, watchful eyes of a family of friendly local dogs who enjoyed the scraps that were given them. There was plenty of evidence of the heavy rain of the past few days, in the form of large pools of water

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 and much mud. The smell of the Atlantic and roar of the waves proved too alluring for some, who decided to go paddling… and a little more. Once we’d finished our lunch, we set off across the beach towards the estuary, from where we could see several Bald Ibis feeding on the hillside opposite. A range of other bird species were noted such as Ruddy Shelduck, Audouin’s Gull, Little Grebe, Marsh Harrier, Moroccan Wagtail, Kentish Plover and Zitting Cisticola. Busack’s Fringe-toed Lizards darted between bushes at the back of the beach, whilst North African Water Frogs plopped into the pools and shallow water. Two Barbary Ground Squirrels were briefly seen on a rocky outcrop above where our vehicle was parked, but they soon disappeared when some local dogs got a bit too close. At the back of the beach, we managed to find the semi-woody grey coloured Polycarpaea nivea with its encrusted looking flower heads and small leaves, Sea Rocket Cakile maritima, Sea Spurge Euphorbia paralias, Lotus creticus and Suaeda vera. Unfortunately over the years Atlantic storms have continued to push sand up the beach, burying much of the plant diversity that was once seen here. We began to retrace our steps southwards, stopping briefly at Cap Rhir lighthouse to see the semi-endemic (Morocco/Algeria) aromatic shrub Warionia saharae. The plant is said to have healing properties due to the essential oils it contains; local women use it as a perfume. We then stopped near an old cemetery to explore some Euphorbia-scrub. We found the climbing yellow toadflax, Nanorrhinum heterophylla, Phagnalon saxatile with its flowerheads very long stalked, a much taller Limonium mucronatum, the height of the I, and shrubs including Searsia tripartita and Mastic Tree Pistacia lentiscus, a plant common around the Mediterranean and found here at the very southern end of its distribution. Within the walls of the cemetery we saw a female Blue Rock Thrush and a bright male Moussier’s Redstart, and we had very brief views of two Bonelli’s Eagles soaring above the ridge. Our final stop was up at the ruined Kasbah Agadir Oufla overlooking the city and down the sweep of coastline, past Oued Sous and continuing south following the Sous Massa National Park's western boundary adjoining the Atlantic coast. We also had good views of Agadir's fishing port and the Anti Atlas Mountains were visible in the distance, all bathed in a lazy late afternoon light. The site of the 1960 Agadir earthquake was seen from this vantage point. Before supper, Helene treated us to a very entertaining and informative chat on Berber culture, cosmetics and social norms, ably assisted by Rasheeda. An exotic amuse-bouche was followed by Canary Drum, a fish from the eastern Atlantic and western Mediterranean in a vegetable sauce, accompanied by stuffed aubergine. Our dessert was a selection of dates with soft cheese and Moroccan mini cakes - wonderful. Day Seven: Friday 9 March. Western High Atlas: Cascades du Imouzzer. The amount of rain that had fallen the week before had taken its toll on the road through Paradise Valley and even though we’d left this area for last, the road repairs had not been completed. For this reason, on a bright sunny morning we made our way north/north-east into the interior instead of along the coast: our plan being to get to the Valley and other sites from the top and drive down as far as we could. The snowy peaks of the High Atlas were visible ahead of us as we drove through Amskroud where the wet red earth (lateritic soil - the iron giving it its colour) was quite a feature of the place. Also seen here were the highly folded strata; very noticeable where the road had been cut into the hills. Near Idmine we stopped to admire quite a remarkable tree - Tetraclinis articulata, the 'Thuja of the Berbers'. This conifer is primarily found in Morocco and Algeria, with two small relict populations in Malta and Andalucía. Yet it is Morocco that holds 600,000ha of the 1million ha total world area of the tree. Well-known for its unusual grain and rich colour, Tetraclinis wood is handcrafted to produce ornaments and kitchen utensils; its large burrs or lupias, a result of its ability to 'self-coppice', a way of coping with wildfires and overgrazing, are much prized by wood-carvers. Its resin is sandarac gum, is used to make liquor taken as a remedy for cramps, insomnia and difficult childbirths. Its name refers to the cones, which we found, which are split into fours. Whilst admiring the Tetraclinis we picked up a few good birds, which vied for our attention: Blue Rock Thrush, Cirl Bunting and a singing Western Orphean Warbler which eventually revealed itself.

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 As we climbed the lower slopes of the Western High Atlas, Holm Oaks Quercus ilex became more dominant. At a stop on the floodplain of the Oued Tazentoute opposite an almond grove, we came across Lavandula dentata var. dentata (less grey than its cousin on the coast), Lavandula multifida, and a veritable carpet of Androcymbium gramineum, mostly white but with some roseate specimens among them, all beautifully backlit by the sun. We also found a small Berber Toad crouching in the shade in the dry river bed, and heard the far-carrying calls of at least two Levaillant's Green Woodpeckers, which replaces the European Green Woodpecker here in Morocco. Muddy landslides were being cleared from the road as we continued onwards and upwards, seeing Barbary Partridges fly out from rocky outcrops, while Barbary Ground Squirrels tried their best to avoid being photographed on the limestone rocks around. We stopped briefly to admire the bluish flowers of a small shrub: Globularia alypum growing by the roadside. The colourful male Bibron's Agamas were also spotted on the way up. At around 1,500-1,600m Dwarf Fan Palms Chamaerops humilis var. cerifera, the glaucous form was much more evident, as were Cistus shrubs, Prickly Juniper Juniperus oxycedrus and the yellow-flowered Genista tricuspidata. On reaching our highest point for the day at around 1,550m, we stepped out onto a steppe-like dwarf shrub habitat growing on what was almost limestone pavement. New shrubs here included Cistus crispus and Kermes Oak Quercus coccifera, giving the area a Mediterranean feel, while the clear backdrop was of the snowy peaks of the High Atlas. Much to our surprise there was someone selling mint tea and fresh almonds which went down very well while taking in the impressive views. Thekla Lark, Sardinian Warbler, Woodchat Shrike and a small endemic reptile; the Moroccan Day Gecko, were all recorded amongst the rocks and shrubs, as were Ajuga iva, not in flower, Geranium mollis, and the odd chunks of calcite. Way in the distance, down in the Sous valley, crops under cover appeared to form a huge inland sea. We started to descend towards Imouzzer, stopping briefly to look for bulbs but sadly the Fritillaria lusitanica, whilst present, was not in flower. However, those intrepid and sure footed among us were able to enjoy Narcissus cantabricus, several flowers of the white hoop petticoat daffodil, halfway up a goat track. The name 'cantabricus' refers to the area of Cantabria in Northern Spain where the species was incorrectly thought to originate; in fact it is a plant of southern Spain, Morocco, Algeria and the Balearics. In terms of the fauna, Rock Bunting was added to the trip bird list, a Red Fox scampered across the road, a Scarce Swallowtail butterfly glided along, and we also found our second Scorpion species of the holiday, the large black Hottentotta gentili, at the side of the road. Lunch was taken below the Cascades du Imouzzer at a local restaurant from which we could look up at the cascades, which were in full spate and looked splendid: white waters against brick red coloured rocks with a bright blue sky as background. A wander along the road towards bridge brought us the fern Cheilanthes vellea once again and an impressive exhibition of Aristolochia baetica in flower, growing under a retaining wall for the car park. Boxes and a host of other artefacts made from the wood of Tetraclinis were on sale here, and tempted some of the group into parting with their Dirhams. A short walk into the surrounding olive groves revealed the leaves of Friar’s Cowl Arisarum simorrhinum, and another new bird for the trip in the form of an African Blue Tit. A Spur-thighed Tortoise kept a low profile in the corner of the cafe garden, where Brimstone and Speckled Wood butterflies were also seen. After lunch we retuned via the same route, making a couple of last stops for a final bit of birding and botanising. As we started to climb up from Imouzzer, where almond trees were in full flower, we were finally able to admire one of the stars of the High Atlas; Polygala balansae expressing itself fully and not as a grazed-upon shrub as we saw at the top of the mountain. A very prickly, glaucous shrubby milkwort, covered in maroon and yellow flowers - a true highlight of the trip. Until recently this was thought to be a Moroccan endemic, but a small population has now been found in southern Spain near Granada. Very good numbers of Dipcadi serotinum were also seen here.

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 A bit further on, up at around 1,300m, the southern side of the valley was dominated by impressive stands of the Dwarf Fan Palm. On the northern side of the valley, different vegetation was clearly present, dominated by Holm Oak, again an indicator of altitude. This is a tree of the Mediterranean, but growing this far south only in the cooler and more amenable climate found at altitude; here forming only a shrub. We had good views here of a Barbary Partridge walking up the hillside, and after taking a few moments to clinch the ID, we saw a Tristram’s Warbler working its way through the scrub, before being chased off by an intolerant Sardinian Warbler. Before heading back to base we did attempt to go further down into Paradise Valley but a police checkpoint conspired to prevent us from continuing. Retracing our steps, we continued up and then back down 'chasing' Barbary Ground Squirrels and Agamas for one last special photograph. Fridays in Morocco means vegetable or meat couscous, and so it was for us, a fitting meal to mark our last evening and another full day… in the sun! Day Eight: Saturday 10 March. Atlas Kasbah and local area; evening return flights to UK. A final wander took some of us back across to the goat track and the wonderfully warm hillsides a stone's throw from the Atlas Kasbah. Others in the group headed to Agadir to visit the Berber museum and the new Medina, while others still, made bread while the sun shone. Swallows and Swifts circled above while migrating flocks of Bee-eaters passing high overhead revealed themselves with their liquid and very summery calls, only to come down later and colourfully pose for us on Argan trees. The Barbary Nut was plentiful and in flower today. The apiarists were busy with what looked like a new delivery of the traditional hives and everywhere around us the hum of bees filled the air. Barbary Partridges strolled across an enclosure, a Little Owl peered out from an Argan tree and was heard calling. Just then we saw a plant not seen in flower on our first day down the track, another Saharan endemic, Picris coronopifolia, and little further up the track a very similar but different white composite Catananche arenaria, a cupidone, with a mauve centre. Something akin to wall rocket Diplotaxis coloured the hills around us in a vivid green and lemon yellow while in the distance the sounds of shepherds calling their flock mixed with Bee-eater flight calls. Numerous kettles of hundreds of migrating White Storks made their way north-west, and a Short-toed Eagle drifted overhead. Hoopoe, Corn Bunting, North African Chaffinch and Southern Grey Shrike were all seen, while Reichardia tingitana was noted on the track as was Chrysanthemum coronarium. The warmer conditions meant that we saw more butterflies today than on our first exploration of this area a few days ago, and we enjoyed watching Greenish Black-tip, Moroccan Hairstreak, Small White, Painted Lady, Clouded Yellow and Bath White flitting between the flowers. At the very end of our walk, we found yet another interesting plant: Orbea decaisneana, a fleshy perennial growing at the base of the hedge just opposite the Kasbah gates. We were back for lunch at 1330, today taken up in the new terrace with its commanding views to the west and south. A chicken tagine and fresh bread baked earlier today in the traditional wood oven, followed by a dessert of apple, banana and home-made custard compote. Our 'little tea' at lunch was of lavender. We had a couple of hours to relax and enjoy the Atlas Kasbah before a last 'little tea' of lemon grass this time, and a chance to thank Mohamed and Rasheeda, M’bark, Hussein, the cook and the Atlas Kasbah team for our stay, delicious food and their great hospitality. Helene and her staff came out to wave goodbye as we drove off to the airport. 'Little Teas' at the Atlas Kasbah: Lavender, Sage, Absinthe, Mint, Lemon grass, Cotton lavender, Basi, Thyme, Rosemary Some abiding memories: The bubbling early morning Bulbul call; the mournful song of the Tchagra; the high fluting calls of bee-eaters; the hum of bees on the goat track; the 1610 call to prayers; the Tighanimine cockerel at 0500; the surprise that came in each tagine; the, as if, last sighs of the braying local donkey; the look of surprise on the chameleon; Hussein's high pouring sounds of tea into little glasses; the shuffling of M’bark’s slippers as he walked with purpose; the serviettes in their pigeon holes;

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 the oil and black olives at mealtimes; the biodiversity of fare at breakfast; the indefatigable Mohammed's ubiquitous, 'Yes,….of corrse.'; the rabbit warren and colour that was Taroudant’s souk; the wildlife. Charlie Rugeroni and Mike Symes, Wildlife Travel. March 2018.


MOROCCO 2018: some highlights

Top: High Atlas. Middle: Sardinian Warbler; Scimitar-horned Oryx. Bottom: Chameleon (Mike Symes); Linaria ventricosa (Charlie Rugeroni); Busack's Fringe-toed Lizard (Mike Symes)

Morocco, species list and trip report, 3 to 10 March 2018 E - endemic species; e - endemic subspecies H - heard not seen Selected Plant Species

Some plant species do not have English names and English names vary according to author. A common name is given as a guide to help those who are not familiar with the scientific name. The Scientific name consists of the Genus (the first name starting with a capital) and the species (the second name, without a capital). Families are in alphabetical order (not in the order found in many plant books - which now changes frequently as the systematic order of families is changing rapidly due to clarification by genetic research). The English name of a family member is also given so you can relate the family to plants you may know. Some species have recently been transferred to different families and the names of species also change occasionally. Orchid names are always problematic as many people split them into a number of species. For families and species, the list follows the (up to date as much as possible) Plant List (Kew) and INPI classification.

SCIENTIFIC NAME

NOTES

First seen

PTERIDOPHTYES - Ferns

Adiantum capillus-veneris Maidenhair Fern Along the water channels in the palmery at Tioute

5th

Asplenium cf ceterach The woolly fern on the rocks, Anti-Atlas 6th Consentina (was Cheilanthes)

vellea Immouzer wall under car-park 9th

CONIFERS

Cupressaceae (Cypress Family)

Cupressus sempervirens Pencil Cypress In the garden 4th Juniperus phoenicea Juniper. Western High Atlas day. 9th Tetraclinis articulata Thuya of the Berbers Common higher up in the High

Atlas 10th

Ephedraceae (Ephedra Family)

Ephedra fragilis Joint Pine Scrambling up through bushes: eg amongst the Opuntia in the old village and elsewhere.

4th

Pinaceae (Pine Family)

Pinus halepensis Aleppo Pine Planted around Immouzer 9th DICOTYLEDONS

Aizoaceae (Carpetweed Family)

Carpobrotus acinaciformis Hottentot Fig eg planted in the garden, along the roadsides around Agadir

4th

Mesembryanthemum crystallinum At Tamri beach 8th Amaranthaceae (Amaranth Family)

Chenopodium bonus-henricus Good King Henry in the Palmery 5th Salsola oppositifolia Thorny shrub around Cap Rhir, nr gulley 8th Anacardiaceae (Cashew Family)

Pistacia lentiscus Higher up in the High Atlas and Cap Rhir 8th Searsia (=Rhus) tripartita Reddish fruit, three-lobed leaves, ‘hawthorn-like’ bush

near the cemetery 8th

Apiaceae (Carrot Family)

Eryngium ilicifolium Along the goat track 4th Eryngium maritimum First stop along coast 8th Ferula communis Giant Fennel In the Oryx enclosure and common in

the Anti Atlas 7th

Smyrnum olusatrum At top of High Atlas 9th Apocyanaceae (includes Asclepediaceae) (Dogbane Family)

Calotropis procera The large, Saharan scrub, food plant of the Plain Tiger 6th Nerium oleander Oleander various places 5th E Orbea decaisneana var.

hesperidum Succulent at base of hedge at roadside opposite hotel gate

10th

Periploca angustifolia Clambering vine with bullhorn see pods 4th Araceae (Arum Family)

Arisarum simorhinum Under the olives at Immouzer (leaves common 9th


SCIENTIFIC NAME

NOTES

First seen

elsewhere) Aristolochiaceae (Birthwort Family)

Aristolochia baetica Abundant in the palmery: vine with ‘dutchman’s pipe’ flowers, the food plant of Spanish Festoon

5th

Asteraceae (Daisy Family)

Bellis annua ssp microcephala At the highest point on the High Atlas drive 9th Calendula arvensis Field Marigold Common arable weed, eg in the garden 4th Catananche arenaria Creamy, with maroon centre 10th Chrysanthemum coronarium Crown Daisy 4th Cladanthus arabicus Large orangey composite with feathery aromatic leaves 4th Evax (=Filago) sp The tiny cudweed between the two enclosures 7th Ismelia versicolor

(=Chrysanthemum carinatum) The three-coloured daisy just before last stop within the National Park

7th

E Kleinia (=Senecio) anteuphorbium Succulent shrubby ‘groundsel’ around Cap Rhir 8th Launaea arborescens Chicken wire bush by Kasbah etc 4th E Nauplius imbricatus Fragrant leaves, yellow flowers: bush around Cap Rhir 8th Onopordum cf macranthum Large thistle between animal enclosures and in village 4th Pallenis spinosa Spiny bracts – several places eg Anti Atlas 6th Phagnalon rupestre On way to village and elsewhere 4th Phagnalon saxatile 9th Reichardia tingitana End of goat track 10th Volutaria lippii The common blue ‘knapweed’, a frequent annual in the

garden and field edges 4th

Warionia saharae The sweetly-scented desert shrub, growing at the lighthouse

8th

Balanophoraceae (Balanophora Family)

Cynomorum coccineum Sandy soil near Cap Rhir 8th Boraginaceae (Borage Family)

Echium horridum The red ‘bugloss’ with long spines 4th Heliotropium crispum The white heliotrope on the goat track 4th Mairetis microsperma Little blue ‘borage’ nr chameleon field and Sous Massa:

endemic to Morocco and the Canaries 6th

Nonea (=Elizaldia) calycina Yellow and brown flowers: the Saharan flower first seen in chameleon field

6th

Brassicaceae (Cabbage Family)

Biscutella didyma Weedy yellow brassica: at the highest stop in the High Atlas

9th

Cakile maritime Sea Rocket 8th Malcolmia littorea Sea Stock 8th Mattiola parviflora Palmery day and chameleon field day; tiny flowers 5th Sinapis arvensis Charlock In the animal enclosures & elsewhere 7th Cactaceae (Cactus Family)

Austrocylindropuntia subulata The cylindrical cactus, introduced from Peru top of village

4th

Opuntia ficus-barbarica (=O ficus-indica)

Fig of the Berbers An invasive, domesticated cactus, originating in Mexico, common around villages

4th

Caryophyllaceae (Pink Family)

Paronychia capitata Papery white flowers 4th Polycarpaea nivea Encrusted grey semi-shrub, Cap Rhir 8th Silene virescens The tiny pink; chameleon field & elsewhere 6th Spergularia fimbriata First stop when at the coast. 8th Spergularia purpurea Goat track 4th Casuarinaceae (Casuarina Family)

Casuarina equisetifolia Australian introduction, in the garden 4th Chenopodiaceae (Amaranth Family)

Arthrocnemum macrostychum Estuary while watching birds. 7th


SCIENTIFIC NAME

NOTES

First seen

Chenopodium murale Nettle-leaved Goosefoot; estuary while watching birds. 7th Suaeda vera Shrubs in the dunes at Oued Tamri 8th Cistaceae (Rock Rose Family)

Cistus crispus In the High Atlas: not yet in flower 9th Helianthemum canariensis Endemic to Morocco and the Canaries: near the

cemetery at Cap Rhir amongst euphorbia 8th

Helianthemum confertum In the first animal enclosure 7th Helianthemum lippii In the second animal enclosure 7th Convolvulaceae (Bindweed Family)

Convolvulus althaeoides Large pink flowered bindweed, eg around the garden, field margins etc

4th

Cuscuta sp a Dodder 5th Ipomaea batatus In the garden by the pool 4th Crassulaceae (Stonecrop Family)

E Sedum versicolor Yellow-flowered stonecrop with marbled leaves, on the goat track: endemic to southern Morocco

4th

Umbilicus rupestris Navelwort Amongst the rocks; various places eg palmery

5th

Cucurbitaceae (Gourd Family)

Bryonia dioica White Bryony 4th Euphorbiaceae (Spurge Family)

Euphorbia exigua Dwarf Spurge Annual weed, in the barley fields amongst the palmery

5th

Euphorbia helioscopia Sun Spurge Annual weed, in the barley fields, palmery 5th Euphorbia officinarum The ‘cactus’-like succulent, around Cap Rhir (var

officinarum, growing tall, columnar, endemic to Morocco) and in the Anti Atlas (var echinum, growing in dense cushions, also found in Mauretania)

8th

Euphorbia paralias Sea Spurge On the beach at Oued Tamri 8th Euphorbia peplus Petty Spurge Eg in the garden: ruderal weed 4th Euphorbia regis-jubae Lime green, shrub-forming Euphorbia around Cap Rhir.

Endemic to Morocco and the Canary Islands

8th

Ricinus communis Castor Bean Plant roadside weed 4th Fabaceae (Pea Family)

Acacia (Vachelia) ehrenbergiana Large thorns on way to enclosure, Sous Massa 7th E Acacia gummifera Small bush, red stems, fine leaves, goat track 4th Acacia saligna Golden Wattle Australian, planted in the garden and

common in the animal enclosures at Sous Massa

7th

Ceratonia siliqua Carob Planted in the garden, and in the palmery at Tioute

4th

Chamaecytisus mollis White-flowered spiny shrub along the goat track 4th Coronilla scorpioides Along the goat track 4th Genista tricuspidata The yellow ‘gorse’ all over the High Atlas hillsides 9th E Hesperolaburnum platycarpum The common yellow flowered large labiate in the Anti

Atlas: sweetly smelling flowers, stems used for basket weaving

6th

Lathyrus clymenum Delicate pink pea flower, the pale-flowered form, amongst the barley in the palmery

5th

Lotus creticus The yellow bird’s foot trefoil 8th Ononis natrix Smelly, sticky leaves, yellow restharrow along

roadsides 4th

Retama (Lygos) monosperma The white-flowered broom 6th Vicia benghalensis The deep maroon vetch amongst the barley, in the

palmery 5th

Fagaceae (Beech Family)

Quercus coccifera Kermes Oak The spiky-leaved shrubby oak in the 9th


SCIENTIFIC NAME

NOTES

First seen

High Atlas Quercus ilex Holm Oak The tree-forming oak in the High Atlas 9th Frankeniaceae (Sea-heath Family)

Frankenia boissieri Smaller flowers, forming domed clumps, coast, Rhir 8th e Frankenia laevis ssp velutina Larger flowered, encrusted stems, coast, Rhir 8th Geraniaceae (Crane's-bill Family)

Erodium hesperium Large-flowered pink stork’s-bill Sous Massa. Endemic to Morocco and the Canaries

7th

Geranium mollis At top of High Atlas on pavements 9th Geranium robertianum At top of High Atlas on pavements 9th Lamiaceae (Mint Family)

Ajuga iva Arable weed, in the palmery and High Atlas. Not in flower

5th

Lavandula dentata The ‘standard’ variety, in the High Atlas 9th Lavandula dentata var candicans Around Cap Rhir: velvety grey leaves, small flowers 8th Lavandula multifida Pinnate leaves, medium-large flowers. eg the goat

track near the hotel; common in the palmery at Tioute 4th

Marrubium vulgare White Horehound in the old village & outside the agadir

4th

Salvia verbenaca At Tamri 8th Teucrium capitatum Tiny deep-red flowers, grey leaves 6th Malvaceae (Mallow Family)

Dombeya cayeuxii The ‘pom pom’ tree outside the Hotel Palais, Taroudant 5th Hibiscus rosa-sinensis Hibiscus in the garden 4th Hibiscus tileaceae Cotton Bush in the garden, nr pond 4th Malva parviflora The small flowered mallow, a common weed during the

trip 8th

Moraceae (Mulberry Family)

Ficus carica Common Fig Common in the palmery at Tioute. Four massive ancient trees in the Palais Hotel grounds, Taroudant. Near the cascades at Immouzer

7th

Ficus elastic Rubber Fig A massive specimen in the harem courtyard, Palais Hotel ground, Taroudant

7th

Ficus lyrata Fiddle-leaf Fig The third species of fig in the Palais Hotel grounds, Taroudant: commonly sold as a house plant (eg at Ikea!)

7th

Moringaceae (Moringa Family)

Moringa oleifera Horseradish tree, with long fruits in patio at hotel 4th Nyctaginaceae (Four O'clock Family)

Bougainvillea sp Common planted shrubs around towns, eg the hotel garden

4th

Orobanchaceae (Broomrape Family)

Cistanche phelypaea Desert Hyacinth Big yellow spikes in sandy soil 6th Orobanche foetida The large, deep red broomrape, parasitizing Ononis,

Sous Massa 8th

Phelipanche (=Orobanche) mutelii The small lilac broomrape, Sous Massa 8th E Striga barthlottii Parasitic on Euphorbia officinarum 6th Oleaceae (Olive Family)

Olea europaea Olive Wild in the High Atlas, planted in the hotel grounds

9th

Olea oleaster Wild Olive considered a valid sp & ssp of the cultivated O.europaea

9th

Papaveraceae (Poppy Family)

Fumaria cf agraria Various places 4th Papaver setigerum Various places 4th Phytolaccaceae (Pokeweed Family)


SCIENTIFIC NAME

NOTES

First seen

Phytolacca americana Pokeweed – in Atlas Kasbah garden 4th Plantaginaceae (inc Globulariaceae and part of Scrophulariaceae) (Plantain Family)

Globularia alypum On way to Western High Atlas 9th E Linaria bipartita Carpets under the argan trees, purple annual 4th E Linaria ventricosa The tall, creamy yellow toadflax, striped with maroon.

On the edge of the palmery at Tioute, and common at the roadside in the Anti Atlas

5th

Nanorrhinum heterophylla Scrambling yellow ‘snapdragon’ near coast cemetery 8th Plantago afra The branched plantain, eg the palmery 5th Plantago albicans The tall, silvery-leaved plantain , eg Cap Rhir 8th Plantago cf ovata A short, round-headed plantain with hairy, narrow

leaves, eg Sous Massa 7th

Plumbaginaceae (Leadwort Family)

E Limonium mucronatum Very winged stems, small pink flowers 8th Limonium sinuatum Winged stems, blue and white flowers 8th Plumbago auriculata In Atlas garden 4th Polygalaceae (Milkwort Family)

Polygala balansae The purple and yellow-flowered shrubby milkwort in the High Atlas. Near-endemic, with one other population near Granada in Spain

9th

Polygonaceae (Knotweed Family)

Emex spinosa The spiny ‘dock’, common roadside weed 4th Rumex vesicarius Bladder Dock Pinkish-flushed inflated calyx, on way to

village 4th

Primulaceae (Primrose Family)

Anagallis arvensis Scarlet Pimpernel Common form with blue flowers and red

4th

Samolus valerandi Brookweed Along the watercourse edges in the palmery

5th

Ranunculaceae (Buttercup Family)

Adonis sp. (possibly annua) A pheasant’s-eye three-petalled, red/orangey flower, between the enclosures

7th

Ranunculus spicatus Large leaved buttercup at the Fritillaria stop High Atlas; In Bud

9th

Resedaceae (Mignonette Family)

Reseda alba White Mignonette 4th Reseda lutea Wild Mignonette 4th Rhamnaceae (Buckthorn Family)

Zizyphus lotus Very spiny hedging bush. Foodplant of the Common Tiger Blue

4th

Rosaceae (Rose Famliy)

Prunus dulcis Almond In the High Atlas 9th Rubiaceae (Madder Family)

Rubia peregrina In the palmery: like a large goosegrass but robust 5th Sapotaceae (Milkwood Family)

E Argania spinosa Argan 4th Scrophulariaceae (Figwort Family)

Myoporum laetum The white-flowered plant planted as a hedge around the hotel garden: introduced from New Zealand

4th

Scrophularia peregrina Nettle-leaved Figwort in the old village 4th Verbascum niger In palmery and elsewhere 5th Solanaceae (Nightshade Family)

Hyoscyamus albus White Henbane outside the palmery 6th Lycium intricatum Purple tubular flowers, near Cap Rhir 8th Nicotiana glaucum South American weed in the village, at roadsides 5th Solandra maxima The big trumpet vine in the hotel gardens, Taroudant 7th


SCIENTIFIC NAME

NOTES

First seen

Solanum linnaeanum Devil’s apple in Sous Massa 7th Withania frutescens In the palmery, with smaller flowers and furry leaves 5th Withania somnifera Hedges near the hotel 4th Tamaricaceae (Tamarisk Family)

Tamarix gallica French Tamarisk at Tamri 8th Urticacaeae (Nettle Family)

Urtica pilulifera Roman Nettle pom-pom flowers 4th Verbenaceae (Verbena Family)

Verbena officinalis Vervain Field edges, in the Palmery 5th Zygophyllaceae (Caltrop Family)

Fagonia cretica Scrambling plant with purple flowers, seed heads turn downwards on fruiting. Outside hotel

4th

MONOCOTYLEDONS

Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllis Family)

Narcisus cantabricus White Hoop-petticoat above Immozer with Fritillaria 9th Arecaceae (Palm Family)

Chamaerops humilis var cerifera Dwarf Fan Palm The glaucous form, in the High Atlas 9th Phoenix dactylifera Date Palm A common roadside tree. Some wonderful

old trees in the palmery at Tioute. 5th

Washingtonia filifera A common planted roadside tree. 5th Asparagaceae (Asparagus Family)

Asparagus acutifolius The scrambling wild asparagus in the Palmery 5th Asparagus albus The spiny, shrubby asparagus, with pale stems 4th Dipcadi serotinum The brown ‘bluebell’, in dry stony or sandy places: eg

the goat track near the hotel; the High Atlas near Polygala stop

4th

Leopoldia (=Muscari) comosa Tassell Hyacinth On the threshing pavement near the village agadir

10th

Scilla peruviana The big blue Scilla growing on the threshing pavement, near the village agadir

9th

Asphodelaceae (Asphodel Family)

Asphodelus fistulosus fine-leaved asphodel on grazed hillsides 4th Asphodelus ramosus ssp nervosus broad-leaved asphodel 4th Urginea maritima Sea Squill Tulip-like leaves on grazed hillsides 4th Cyperaceae (Sedge Family)

Cyperus capitatus The little sedge in the sand at Cap Rhir 8th Iridaceae (Iris Family)

Gynandriris sisyrinchium Barbary Nut The little purple iris, opened out in the afternoon sun

4th

Colchicaceae (Colchicum Family)

Androcymbium gramineum The low-growing white lily, on way to old village & High Atlas

4th

Liliaceae (Lily Family)

Fritillaria lusitanica Before getting to Immouzer; In Bud 9th Poaceae (Grass Family)

Arundo donax Giant Reed 4th Lamarckia aurea Feathery grass 4th Xanthorrhoeaceae

Asphodelus ramosus ssp nervosus broad-leaved asphodel 4th Asphodelus fistulosus fine-leaved asphodel on grazed hillsides 4th Urginea maritima Sea Squill Tulip-like leaves on grazed hillsides 4th


ENGLISH NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME

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4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

10

th

BIRDS

Family Ratidae (Ratites)

Red-necked Ostrich Struthio camelus camelus � Family Anatidae (Ducks, Geese & Swans)

Shelduck Tadorna tadorna � Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea � Mallard Anas platyrhnchos � � Shoveler Anas clypeata � Family Phasianidae (Pheasants and Partridges)

Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara � � �

Family Podicipedidae (Grebes)

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis � Family Sulidae (Gannets)

Gannet Morus bassanus � Family Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants)

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis � � Family Ardeidae (Herons)

Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis � � � Little Egret Egretta garzetta � � � Grey Heron Ardea cinerea � � Family Ciconiidae (Storks)

White Stork Ciconia ciconia � � � � �

Family Threskiornithidae (Spoonbills and Ibises)

Northern Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita � Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia � Family Phoenicopteridae (Flamingoes)

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus � Family Pandionidae (Ospreys)

Osprey Pandion haliaetus � Family Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles and Vultures)

Bonelli’s Eagle Aquila fasciata � Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus �

Black Kite Milvus migrans � Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus � � Family Falconidae (Falcons)

Lanner Falco biarmicus � Kestrel Falco tinnunculus � � � � � � � Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni � Family Rallidae (Rails and Crakes) Coot Fulica atra � Family Recurvirostridae (Avocets and Stilts)

Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta � Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus � Family Burhinidae (Stone curlews)

Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus � Family Glareolidae (Coursers and Pratincoles)

Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor � Family Scolopacidae (Sandpipers)

Dunlin Calidris alpina � Little Stint Calidris minuta � Curlew Numenius arquata � Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa �



3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

10

th

Redshank Tringa totanus � Ruff Philomachus pugnax � Family Charadriidae (Plovers)

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula � Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus � Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola � Family Laridae (Gulls)

Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus � Little Gull Hydrocoloeus minutus � Mediterranean Gull Ichthyaetus melanocephalus � Audouin’s Gull Ichthyaetus audouinii � Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis � � � � � �

Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus � � Family Sternidae (Terns) Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis � Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica � Family Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)

Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon Columba livia � � � � � � �

Woodpigeon Columba palumbus � � Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto � � � � � � Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis � � �

Family Strigidae (Owls)

Little Owl Athene noctua �

Family Apodidae (Swifts)

Swift Apus apus � � Pallid Swift Apus pallidus � � � Little Swift Apus affinis � � Family Meropidae (Bee-eaters)

Bee-eater Merops apiaster �

Family Upupidae (Hoopoes)

Hoopoe Upupa epops � � �

Family Picidae (Woodpeckers)

Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker Picus vaillantii H Family Alaudidae (Larks)

Crested Lark Galerida cristata � � � � � Thekla Lark Galerida theklae � � � � �

Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla � Family Hirundinidae (Swallows and Martins)

House Martin Delichon urbica � Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica � � Swallow Hirundo rustica � � � � � � �

Family Motacillidae (Pipits and Wagtails)

Iberian Wagtail Motacilla (f.) iberiae � White Wagtail Motacilla (a.) alba � � �

Moroccan Wagtail Motacilla (a.) subpersonata � � Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea � � Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis � Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris � Family Muscicapidae (Flycatchers and Chats)

Robin Erithacus rubecula � Moussier’s Redstart Phoenicurus moussieri � � � � � �

Stonechat Saxicola torquata � Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura � � � � Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe �



3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

10

th

Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius � � Family Turdidae (Thrushes) Blackbird Turdus merula � � � � � � � Family Sylviidae (Sylviid Warblers)

Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla � Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala � � H H � � � Western Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis � Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata � Western Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans � � �

Tristram’s Warbler Sylvia deserticola � Family Phylloscopidae (Leaf Warblers)

Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita � � � � Family Cettiidae (Bush Warblers)

Cetti’s Warbler Cettia cetti H Family Cisticolidae (Cisticolas)

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis H � Family Paridae (Tits)

Great Tit Parus major H � H H African Blue Tit Cyanistes tenerifae � Family Laniidae (Shrikes)

Southern Grey Shrike Lanius elegans � � � �

Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator � � � �

Family Malaconotidae (Tchagras)

Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus H � � � � H Family Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls)

Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus � � � � � � �

Family Corvidae (Crows) Maghreb Magpie Pica (pica) mauritanica � � � � � �

Jay Garrulus glandarius �

Raven Corvus corax � H

Family Sturnidae (Starlings)

Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor � � � � � �

Family Passeridae (Sparrows)

Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis � � �

House Sparrow Passer domesticus � � � � � � �

Family Fringillidae (Finches)

North African Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs africana � � � � � Greenfinch Carduelis chloris � � � � � � �

Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis H Linnet Carduelis cannabina � � Serin Serinus serinus � � � � � � Family Emberizidae (Buntings)

Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra �

House Bunting Emberiza sahari � � � � Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus � �

Rock Bunting Emberiza cia �


3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

10

th

MAMMALS

Dromedary Camelus dromedarius � �



3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

10

th

Dorcas Gazelle Gazella dorcas � Addax Addax nasomaculatus � Scimitar-horned Oryx Oryx dammah � Barbary Ground Squirrel Atlantoxerus getulus � � �

Wild Boar Sus scrofa � Red Fox Vulpes vulpes �


3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

10

th

AMPHIBIANS

North African Water Frog Pelophylax saharica � Berber Toad Bufo mauretanicus �


3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

10

th

REPTILES

Spur-thighed Tortoise Testudo graeca soussensis � � Moorish Terrapin Mauremys leprosa saharica � Moorish Gecko Tarentola mauretanica �

Mediterranean Chameleon Chameleo chameleon � E Moroccan Lizard-toed Gecko Saurodactylus brosseti � E Moroccan Day-Gecko Quedenfeldtia moerens � Bibron’s Agama Agama impalearis � � Busack’s Fringe-toed Lizard Acanthodactylus (pardalis) busacki �


3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

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th

LEPIDOPTERA - Butterflies

Family Papilionidae (Swallowtails, Festoons, Apollos)

Southern Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides (podarius) feisthamelii � Family Pieridae (Whites)

Moroccan Orange Tip Anthocharis belia � � Greenish Black-tip Euchloe charlonia � � � �

Large White Pieris brassicae � Small White Pieris rapae mauretanica � �

Bath White Pontia daplidice �

Clouded Yellow Colias croceus � �

Brimstone Gonopteryx rhamni � Family Lycaenidae (Blues, Coppers, Hairstreaks)

Moroccan Hairstreak Tomares mauretanicus � �

Common Blue Polyommatus icarus � False Baton Blue Pseudophilotes abencerragus � Family Nymphalidae (Nymphs, Fritillaries, Browns)

Painted Lady Vanessa cardui �

Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria �



3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

10th

OTHER INVERTEBRATES

Striped Hawk-moth Hyles livornica Outside hotel on 5th Praying Mantis Sphodromantis viridis On Jill’s leg by pottery store on 7th Yellow Scorpion Buthus sp. Under rocks on 6th (Middle Atlas) &

8th (near Cap Rhir) Black Scorpion Hottentotta gentili On road above cascades (High

Atlas) on 9th Splendid Cone-headed

Grasshopper Truxalis nasuta In Tioute palmery on 5th

Darkling Beetle Blaps sp. In Sous Massa NP on 7th


Top: Cistanche phelypaea (Charlie Rugeroni); Barbary Ground Squirrel (Mike Symes). MIddle:Sphodromantis viridis; Nauplius imbricatus; Androcymbium gramineum. Bottom: Narcisus cantabricus; Euphorbia officinarum var. echinum (Charlie Rugeroni)

morocco 2018 trip report - wildlife travel

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