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Anna Kucsma

Montreal with Kids

Montreal, 1 Day

Table of contents:Guide Description 2

Itinerary Overview 3

Daily Itineraries 4

Montreal Snapshot 7

Guide Description

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AUTHOR NOTE: At first glance, Montréal might seem more likea playground for adults than children. That perception couldn’t befarther far from the truth. A good number of the city’s museumsand attractions tailor many of their exhibits and activities to thecity’s tiniest sightseers, and parents are sure to hear hours ofgiddy shrieks and astonished gasps when they hit the spotsbelow.

Itinerary Overview things to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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Day 1 - MontrealDAY NOTE: La Ronde: Though many of the 37 rides at this SixFlags–owned venture—Montréal’s only amusement park—willtest thrill seekers, little ones and less-adventuresome kids willfind plenty of other fun options, including various multimediaextravaganzas and a slew of cutesy, slow rides. Older kidsand teens (and fearless parents) should head for the extrememonstrosities, which include the 60mph (97kmph) Le Cobracoaster; and Le Vampire, a suspended coaster that does fiveloops at 50mph (80kmph)...Insectarium de Montréal: More than 3,000 species of creepycritters (either mounted, flying, or crawling in enclosed displays)call this two-story museum home. Kids especially adore themounted butterflies and the live displays of scorpions, tarantulas,crickets, cockroaches, and praying mantises. If you’re lucky (orunlucky, depending on your appetite) and happen to visit in themonths of November and December, you can take part in themuseum’s Insect Tasting, where appointed experts in the field ofbug cuisine fry up, bake, sauté and candy all sorts of six-leggedcreatures...Biodôme de Montréal: Of the four ecosystems (all with theirappropriate temperatures, flora, and fauna) re-created in thisunusual attraction, the polar and rainforest environments are thebiggest hits with young kids—penguins and macaws apparentlyhaving the innate ability to mesmerize children for hours. Oncethey’ve gotten tired of watching the animals, little ones can try outNaturalia, a game room just for kids. Older children and teensusually find all of the exhibits—and their wide range of animals,which include endangered species—fascinating...Planétarium de Montréal: Young kids may fall asleep as theylean back and watch this planetarium’s illuminations of the nightsky, but older children will be intrigued by the exciting light showsand multimedia displays. The 20m (66-ft.) dome is modest as faras planetariums go, but its presentations (staged alternativelyin French and English) are still impressive and informative, andthe downtown location is very convenient. A special, worthwhileholiday show is screened in December and early January...Le Centre des Sciences de Montréal: This ambitious and highlyinteractive science museum is filled with intriguing exhibits thatenlighten visitors on a wide range of topics, from biology totelecommunications. The biggest draw for kids is the center’sIMAX theater, where an enormous screen and booming speakersbombard children with vivid images of furry animals, bouncingmolecules, hulking machines, and other science-relatedsubjects.

Centre des Sciences de Montréal

Insectarium de Montréal

Planétarium de Montréal

Biodôme de Montréal

La Ronde Amusement Park

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Day 1 - MontrealQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: La Ronde: Though many of the 37 rides at this Six Flags–owned venture—Montréal’s only amusement park—will test thrillseekers, little ones and less-adventuresome kids will find plenty of other fun options, including various multimedia extravaganzas anda slew of cutesy, slow rides. Older kids and teens (and fearless parents) should head for the extreme monstrosities, which include the60mph (97kmph) Le Cobra coaster; and Le Vampire, a suspended coaster that does five loops at 50mph (80kmph)...Insectarium de Montréal: More than 3,000 species of creepy critters (either mounted, flying, or crawling in enclosed displays) callthis two-story museum home. Kids especially adore the mounted butterflies and the live displays of scorpions, tarantulas, crickets,cockroaches, and praying mantises. If you’re lucky (or unlucky, depending on your appetite) and happen to visit in the months ofNovember and December, you can take part in the museum’s Insect Tasting, where appointed experts in the field of bug cuisine fry up,bake, sauté and candy all sorts of six-legged creatures...Biodôme de Montréal: Of the four ecosystems (all with their appropriate temperatures, flora, and fauna) re-created in this unusualattraction, the polar and rainforest environments are the biggest hits with young kids—penguins and macaws apparently having theinnate ability to mesmerize children for hours. Once they’ve gotten tired of watching the animals, little ones can try out Naturalia, a gameroom just for kids. Older children and teens usually find all of the exhibits—and their wide range of animals, which include endangeredspecies—fascinating...Planétarium de Montréal: Young kids may fall asleep as they lean back and watch this planetarium’s illuminations of the night sky,but older children will be intrigued by the exciting light shows and multimedia displays. The 20m (66-ft.) dome is modest as far asplanetariums go, but its presentations (staged alternatively in French and English) are still impressive and informative, and the downtownlocation is very convenient. A special, worthwhile holiday show is screened in December and early January...Le Centre des Sciences de Montréal: This ambitious and highly interactive science museum is filled with intriguing exhibits that enlightenvisitors on a wide range of topics, from biology to telecommunications. The biggest draw for kids is the center’s IMAX theater, where anenormous screen and booming speakers bombard children with vivid images of furry animals, bouncing molecules, hulking machines,and other science-related subjects.

contact:tel: 514/496-4724www.montrealsciencecentre.com

location:Montreal QC

hours:Weekdays from 8:30am,weekends from 9am; closinghours vary

1 Centre des Sciences de Montréal

DESCRIPTION: Running the length of a central pier in Vieux-Port (Old Port), this ambitiouscomplex occupies a steel-and-glass building along much of Quai King Edward. Focusing onscience and technology, it has interactive displays and a cinema, as well as a popular IMAXtheater. Designed to make energy conservation, 21st-century communications, and life sciencesvivid, in 2007 it hosted the touring Body Worlds exhibit. With its extensive use of computers andelectronic visual displays, its displays are particularly appealing to youngsters. Admission feesvary according to combination of exhibits and movie showings you want. Pre-order tickets forspecial exhibits to avoid long lines. An outdoor terrace called Origine Bistro, offering light mealsand drinks, opened in 2007 and joins an existing café selling sandwiches, salads, and sweets. ©Frommer's

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contact:tel: 514/872-1400www.ville.montreal.qc.ca/insectarium

location:4581 rue Sherbrooke estMontreal QC

hours:Nov 1-May 14 daily 9am-5pm;May 15-Sept 6 daily9am-6pm; Sept 7-Oct 31 daily9am-9pm

2 Insectarium de Montréal

DESCRIPTION: Live exhibits featuring scorpions, tarantulas,hissing cockroaches, assassin bugs, praying mantises, andother "misunderstood creatures, which are so often wronglyfeared and despised," as the Insectarium puts it, are displayedin this two-level structure near the rue Sherbrooke gate of theJardin Botanique (Botanical Garden). Needless to say, kidsare delighted especially by the creepy critters. More than 3,000mounted butterflies, beetles, scarabs, maggots, locusts, andgiraffe weevils also are featured, and during the summer, theButterfly House is full of beautiful live specimens flutteringamong the nectar-bearing plants. In September, visitors canwatch monarch butterflies being tagged and released fortheir annual migration to Mexico. The annual award-winning"Insect Tasting" (Croque-insectes) dinner seems to have beensuspended, which is a shame. But you can still buy lollipopswith scorpions inside at the gift shop. © Frommer's

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contact:tel: 514/872-4530www.planetarium.montreal.qc.ca

location:1000 rue St-Jacques ouestMontreal QC

hours:Hours vary according to showschedule; call for details

3 Planétarium de Montréal

DESCRIPTION: A window on the night sky, with mythicalmonsters and magical heroes, Montréal's planetarium is rightdowntown, in the heart of the city. Shows under the 20m (66-ft.) dome dazzle and inform kids at the same time. Multimediapresentations change with the seasons, exploring time andspace travel and collisions of celestial bodies, and up to fivedifferent shows are screened daily. The special Christmasshow, "Season of Light," can be seen November through earlyJanuary. Shows in English alternate with those in French. ©Frommer's

Photo courtesy of Planétarium deMontréal

contact:tel: 514/868-3000www.biodome.qc.ca

location:4777 av. Pierre-de-CoubertinMontreal QC

hours:Daily 9am-5pm (until 6pm lateJune to Aug)

4 Biodôme de Montréal

DESCRIPTION: Perhaps the most engaging attraction in thecity for children of any age, the delightful Biodôme housesreplications of four ecosystems: a tropical rainforest, aLaurentian forest, the St. Lawrence marine system, and a polarenvironment. Visitors walk through each and hear the animals,smell the flora, and, except in the polar region, which is behindglass, feel the changes in temperature. The rainforest areais the most engrossing (the subsequent rooms increasinglyless so), so take your time here. It's a kind of "Where's Waldo"challenge to find all the critters, from the huge groundhog calleda capybara to the golden lion tamarin monkeys that swing onbranches only an arm's length away; only the bats, fish, andpolar penguins and puffins are behind glass. A giant tank in theSt. Lawrence region has Atlantic Sturgeon nearly 1.5m (5 ft.)long, while the open-air space features hundreds of shore birdswhose shrieks can transport you to the beach. The building wasoriginally the velodrome for cycling for the 1976 Olympics. The

Biodôme de Montréal

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facility also has a game room for kids called Naturalia, a shop,a bistro, and a cafeteria. © Frommer's

contact:tel: 514/397-2000www.laronde.com

location:22 Chemin MacdonaldMontreal QC H3C 6A3

hours:Late June to Aug daily11am-9pm (to 11:30pmSat); spring and fall Sat-Sun11am-7pm

5 La Ronde Amusement Park

DESCRIPTION: Montréal's amusement park, opened as partof Expo 67, the World's Fair, was run for its first 34 years bythe city. It was sold to the American-owned Six Flags theme-park empire in 2001 and at first seemed pretty much to be thesame old park, minus the threat of insolvency. But new rideshave since been delivered. Like hot sauces, they're categorizedby "thrill rating": moderate, mild, or max. There are 11 rides inthe "max thrill" category, including Le Vampire, a suspendedcoaster which has riders experiencing five head-over-heelsloops at more than 80kmph (50 mph). Other attractions includeFerris wheels, carnival booths, and plenty of places to eatand drink. An antique carousel, Le Galopant, was built byBelgian artisans in 1885 and was part of the Belgian Pavilionat the 1964 to 1965 New York World's Fair. The Minirail is anelevated train that circles the park. Young children also haveample selection, including the Tchou Tchou Train and tassesmagiques, in which they sit in one of 12 giant rotating tea cups.On 10 Wednesdays and Saturdays in June and July, La Rondehosts a huge fireworks competition, L'International Des FeuxLoto-Québec. Although the pyrotechnics can be enjoyed forfree from almost anywhere in the city overlooking the river,tickets can be purchased to watch from the open-air theaterat the amusement park and include entrance to the park.Call tel. 514/397-2000 or go to www.internationaldesfeuxloto-quebec.com/en for details. © Frommer's

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Local InfoJust 10 years ago, something of a bleakmood prevailed in Québec province. Itwas driven by lingering recession anduncertainty over the future; it seemedpossible that the province would choose tofling itself into independence from the restof Canada.Lately, though, something else is going on.Ripples of optimism have become waves.The Canadian dollar, as every travelerwill discover, has strengthened againstits U.S. counterpart. In Montréal, a billion-dollar building boom has been filling upvacant lots all over downtown. Montréalhas become a modern city in every regard,with skyscrapers in unexpected shapesand bright, noncorporate colors; a historicdistrict that has been beautifully preserved;and a large area of artists' lofts, boutiques,cafés, and miles of restaurants. QuébecCity, more traditional and more French, isreplacing its former conservatism with anever-expanding aura of sophistication.American and European travelers will likelyfind Montréal an urban near-paradise.The subway system, called the Métro,is modern and swift. Streets are safe.Montréal's best restaurants are the equalsof their south-of-the-border compatriotsin every way, but 20% cheaper. QuébecCity, meanwhile, with its impressive locationabove the St. Lawrence River and itsvirtually unblemished Old Town of 18th-and 19th-century houses, looks Frenchand is almost impossibly romantic andContinental-feeling-- it's unlike any city inNorth America.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

HistoryQuébec is immense, the largest provincein the second-largest country in theworld(after Russia) at 1,667,926 sq.km(643,819 sq. miles)-- more than threetimes as large as France. It stretches fromthe northern borders of New York, Vermont,and New Hampshire up north to almost theArctic Circle. To the east of it lie Maine andthe province of New Brunswick; to the west,

the province of Ontario and James andHudson bays. Its substantial fund of naturalresources includes 16% of the world'ssupply of fresh water.Most of the province's population livesin its lower regions-- the St. Lawrencelowlands and parts of the Appalachiansand the Laurentians. More than 80% ofits 7.5 million residents live within an area322km(200 miles) long and 97km(60 miles)wide, one of the highest concentrations ofpeople in sparsely populated Canada.The greater Montréal metropolitan areais home to nearly half of the province'spopulation. The city itself is on anisland that is part of the HochelagaArchipelago. The island is situated in the St.Lawrence(St-Laurent) River near where itjoins the Ottawa River. At the city's centeris a 232m(761-ft.) hill(which natives like tothink of as a mountain) called Mont-Royal,from which the city takes its name. Realmountains rise nearby: the Laurentides(theLaurentians) are the oldest range in theworld and the playground of the Québécois.The northern foothills of the Appalachianmountains separate Québec from theUnited States and add to the beauty of theCantons-de-l'Est, the bucolic region on theopposite side of the St. Lawrence onceknown as the Eastern Townships, wheremany Montréalers have country homes.Québec City, 263km(163 miles) northeastof Montréal, commands a stunning locationon the rim of a promontory overlooking theriver, which is at its narrowest point here.The Europeans Arrive-- The Vikingslanded in Canada more than 1,000 yearsago, probably followed by Irish and Basquefishermen. English explorer John Cabotstepped ashore briefly on the east coast in1497, but it was the French who managedthe first meaningful European toehold in thewilderness. When Jacques Cartier sailedup the St. Lawrence in 1535, he recognizedat once the tremendous strategic potentialof Cape Diamond,"the Gibraltar of theNorth." But he was exploring, not empirebuilding, and after stopping briefly on landhe continued on his trip upriver.

Cartier continued past the spot that wouldbecome Québec City under Champlain towhat was then a large island with a fortifiedIroquois village called Hochelaga andcomposed of 50 longhouses. As usual,he didn't linger but pushed onward in hissearch for the sea route to China. Hisprogress was halted by the fierce rapidsjust west of what is now the Island ofMontréal. In a demonstration of mingledoptimism and frustration, he dubbed therapids"La Chine" on the assumption thatChina was just beyond them(today, they'reknown as the Lachine). He then decidedto check out the Indian settlement afterall, landing at a spot in what is now OldMontréal, and paid his respects to theNative people before moving on. That wasthe extent of Cartier's contribution to thefuture city.Samuel de Champlain arrived 73 yearslater, in 1608, determined to settle atQuébec, a year after the Virginia Companyfounded its fledgling colony of Jamestown,hundreds of miles to the south. TheBritish and French struggle for dominancein the new continent focused on theirexplorations, and there the French outdidthe English. Their far-ranging fur trappers,navigators, soldiers, and missionariesopened up not only Canada but also mostof what eventually became the UnitedStates, moving all the way south to thefuture New Orleans and claiming most ofthe territory to the west. This vast regionlater comprised the Louisiana Purchase.At least 35 of the subsequent 50 stateswere mapped or settled by Frenchmen,who left behind thousands of names toprove it, among them Detroit, St. Louis,New Orleans, Duluth, and Des Moines.Champlain's first settlement, orhabitation,grew to become Québec City's Basse-Ville, or Lower Town, on the flat riverbankbeneath the cliffs of Cap Diamant(CapeDiamond). But almost from the beginningthere were attacks, first by the Iroquois,then by the English, and later by theAmericans. To better defend themselves,the Québécois constructed a fortress on the

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cape, and gradually the center of urban lifemoved to the top of the cliffs.The Founding of Montreal-- Paul deChomedey, sieur de Maisonneuve,arrived in 1642 to establish a colony and toplant a crucifix atop the hill he called Mont-Royal. He and his band of settlers cameashore and founded Ville-Marie, dedicatedto the Virgin Mary, at the spot now markedby Place-Royale. They built a fort, a chapel,stores, and houses, and the energeticJeanne Mance made her indelible mark byfounding the hospital named Hotel-Dieu-de-Montréal, which still exists today.Life was not easy. Unlike the friendlyAlgonquins who lived in nearby regions,the Iroquois in Montréal had no intention ofliving in peace with the new settlers. Fiercebattles raged for years, and the settlerswere lucky that their numbers included suchundaunted souls as la Salle, du Luth, de laMothe Cadillac, and the brothers Lemoyne.At Place d'Armes today there's a statue ofde Maisonneuve, marking the spot wherethe settlers defeated the Iroquois in bloodyhand-to-hand fighting.From that time the settlement prospered.Until the 1800s, Montréal was contained inthe area known today as Vieux-Montréal.Its ancient walls no longer stand, but itslong and colorful past is preserved in thestreets, houses, and churches of the OldCity.England Conquers New France-- Inthe 1750s, the struggle between Britainand France had escalated, after a seriesof conflicts, beginning in 1689, that hadembroiled both Europe and the NewWorld. The latest episode was knownas the French and Indian War in NorthAmerica, an extension of Europe's SevenYears' War. Strategic Québec becamea valued prize. The French appointedLouis Joseph, Marquis de Montcalm,to command their forces in the town. TheBritish sent an expedition of 4,500 men in afleet under the command of a 32-year-oldgeneral, James Wolfe. The British troopssurprised the French by coming up andover the cliffs of Cap Diamant. The ensuingbattle for Québec, fought on the Plains ofAbraham just southwest of the city center

on September 13, 1759, is one of the mostimportant battles in North American history:It resulted in a continent that was underBritish influence for over a century.(Thatinfluence carries on to today: The face ofQueen Elizabeth II is still on all Canadiancurrency.)The battle lasted just 18 to 25 minutes,depending on which historian you read, andresulted in 600 casualties. Both generalsperished as a result wounds received.Wolfe lived just long enough to hear thatthe British had won. Montcalm died a fewhours later. Today a memorial to both menoverlooks Terrasse Dufferin in Québec City,the only statue in the world commemoratingboth victor and vanquished of the samebattle. The inscription, in neither French norEnglish but Latin, says, simply, COURAGEWAS FATAL TO THEM.The United States Invades-- The captureof Québec determined the course of thewar, and the Treaty of Paris in 1763ceded all of French Canada to England.In a sense, this victory was a bane toBritain, however. If the French had heldCanada, the British government mighthave been more judicious in its treatmentof the American colonists. As it was, theBritish decided to make the colonists paythe costs of the French and Indian War, onthe principle that it was their homes beingdefended. They slapped so many taxes onall imports that the infuriated U.S. colonistsopenly rebelled against the Crown.But if the British misjudged the temper ofthe colonists, the Americans were equallywrong about the mood of the Canadians.George Washington felt sure thatFrench Canadians would want to join therevolution, or at least be supportive. He wasmistaken on both counts. The Québécoisdetested their British conquerors, butthey were also staunch Royalists anddevout Catholics, and saw their contentiousneighbors as godless Republicans. Onlya handful supported the Americans, andthree of Washington's most competentcommanders came to grief in attacksagainst Québec. Thirty-eight years later,in the War of 1812, another U.S. armymarched up the banks of the RichelieuRiver where it flows from Lake Champlain

to the St. Lawrence. And once again, theFrench Canadians stuck by the Britishand drove back the invaders. The warended essentially in a draw, but it hadat least one encouraging result: Britainand the young United States agreed todemilitarize the Great Lakes and to extendtheir mutual border along the 49th parallelto the Rockies.Montréal and Québec City Today-- Theancient walls that protected Québec Cityover the centuries are still in place today,and the town within their embrace haschanged little, preserving for posterity theheart of New France. Montréal, though, hasgone through a metamorphosis. It was"wet"when the United States was"dry" due toProhibition from 1920 to 1933. Bootleggers,hard drinkers, and prostitutes flocked to thislarge city situated so conveniently closeto the American border and mixed withrowdy people from the port, much to thedistress of Montréal's mainly upstandingcitizenry. For half a century the city's imagewas decidedly racy, but in the 1950s acleanup began, with a boom in high-riseconstruction and eventual restoration ofmuch of the derelict Old Town. In 1967,Montréal welcomed the world to Expo'67,the World's Fair. The great gleamingskyscrapers and towering hotels, thesuperb Métro system, and the highlypractical underground city date mostly fromthe 40 years since the Expo.All this activity helped to fuel aphenomenon later labeled the "QuietRevolution." The movement was totransform the largely rural, agriculturalprovince into an urbanized, industrial entitywith a pronounced secular outlook. FrenchCanadians, long denied access to theupper echelons of desirable corporatecareers, started to insist upon equalopportunity with the powerful Anglophoneminority.Inevitably, a radical fringe movement ofseparatists emerged, signaling its intentionsby bombing Anglophone businesses.The FLQ(Québec Liberation Front), asit was known, was behind most of theterrorist attacks, reaching its nadir withthe kidnapping and murder of a cabinetminister, Pierre Laporte.

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Most Québécois separatists, though, werenot violent, and most French-speakingQuébécois were not even separatists.Pierre Trudeau, a bilingual Québécois,became prime minister in 1968. Moreflamboyant, eccentric, and brilliant thanany Canadian who ever held the post, henecessarily devoted much of his time totrying to placate voters on both sides of theissue. In 1969, the Official Languages Actmandated that all federal agencies provideservices in both French and English. Butsuccession remained a dream for manypeople; in 1980, a provincial referendumon separation from the confederationwas defeated by only 60% of the vote.Subsequent attempts to assuage thechafed sensibilities of French Québécoisfailed again and again, as often at thehands of other provincial premiers as by theQuébécois, hounding at least three primeministers from office.In 1993, the governing Tories weredefeated by the opposition Liberals. Thenew Prime Minister, Jean Chrétien, afederalist, was not aided in his task ofnational reconciliation by representationin the House of Commons of the militantlyseparatist Bloc Québécois, which becamethe largest opposition party in the sameelection.On a regional level, the issue continued tosimmer. In Québec the following year, theParti Québécois won provincial electionsto end 9 years of Liberal control. The newpremier, Jacques Parizeau, vowed tohold an early referendum on sovereignty.In October 1995, the referendum lost bya mere 1% of the total vote. Parizeauresigned the next day, after makingintemperate remarks about the negativerole of ethnic voters in the results.An unsettled mood prevailed in theprovince, thanks to a recession and generaluncertainty over the future. But by 2000things began to change. The Canadiandollar strengthened against the U.S.dollar. Unemployment, long in doubledigits, shrank to under 6%, the lowestpercentage in more than 2 decades. Crimein Montréal(already one of the safest citiesin North America) hit a 20-year low.

Nationally, the Liberal Party was rackedby an ongoing corruption scandal. A voteof confidence was held in May 2005. Thegoverning Liberals won by a single vote,but redemption was short-lived. In January2006, the opposition Conservatives led byStephen Harper ousted the long incumbentLiberals.Meanwhile, the presence of skilled workersmade much of Canada a favored site forHollywood film and TV production. The rashof FOR RENT and FOR SALE signs thatdisfigured Montréal in the 1990s continuedevaporating, replaced by a welcomeshortage of store and office space.Today, the quest for separatism seemsto be fading. Conversations with ordinaryQuébécois suggest they are weary of theargument. As significantly, in provincialelections in March 2007, the LiberalParty, headed by Jean Charest, won justa minority government, with an out-of-nowhere second-place victory for the newAction démocratique du Québec partyand its young leader Mario Dumont. Theseparatist Parti Québécois placed a distantthird with just 28% of the vote marking,many think, the beginning of the end ofthe PQ's 40-year political movement andcampaign for independence.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Hotel InsightsHotel Le St-James(355 rue St-Jacquesouest; tel. 866/841-3111): Setting thestandard against which any boutique hotelin town must measure itself, this former19th-century bank in Vieux-Montreal letsno luxurious detail escape its attention.From its opulent main hall to the sybariticsubterranean spa to its immaculatelytrained staff, this is an experience thatmay well be the highlight of your visit.W Montreal(901 rue Square Victoria;tel. 888/627-7081): If you qualify as hip,aware, and on the fast track to somewheregood(or like to think you do), waste notime booking a suite at this local entry inthe spreading chain. It won't hurt if yourplatinum card is paid up and you don'tneed much sleep, either. There are threebars and lounges, a hyper-chic restaurant,and a clientele composed of knockoutsof both sexes. Also in Vieux-Montreal.

Auberge Bonaparte(447 rue St-Francois-Xavier; tel. 514/844-1448): The long-established restaurant on the groundfloor was accorded a massive rehab andexpansion a few years back, and nowincludes the comely inn upstairs. Roomsare simply furnished, but four out of theeight on each floor have whirlpool tubsand the rooftop terrace overlooks Vieux-Montreal's Basilique Notre-Dame. AubergeLes Passants du Sans Soucy(171 rueSt-Paul oust; tel. 514/842-2634): Justaround the corner from Bonaparte, thischarming little B&B helped pioneer therecovery of Vieux-Montreal to its currentstatus as the must-see quarter of the city.The lobby is an art gallery with changingexhibits. Fireplaces and jet tubs have beenadded to the nine bedrooms. Best HistoricHotel: No contest. The Ritz-CarltonMontreal, 1228 rue Sherbrooke ouest(tel.800/363-0366 or 514/842-4212), hasbeen around since 1913, giving it a half-century lead on the closest competition.Best for Business Travelers: A closercall, with several worthy candidates, butFairmont The Queen Elizabeth, 900 bd.Rene-Levesque ouest(tel. 800/441-1414 or514/861-3511), gets the nod for its centrallocation atop the railroad station, conciergefloors, a fully equipped health club, andexcellent bus connections to the airport.Best New(ish) Luxury Hotel Downtown:The nearby Omni, Ritz, and Vogue arechallenged by the first Canadian branch ofa pervasive French chain, the Sofitel, 1155rue Sherbrooke ouest(tel. 514/285-9000),which matches its rivals in every detail.Best for a Romantic Getaway: Withancient cut-stone walls, swags of velvet andbrocade, and tilting floors that BenjaminFranklin once trod upon-- not to mentiona baronial dining room and stonewalledoutdoor terrace, the Hostellerie Pierredu Calvet, 405 rue Bonsecours(tel.866/544-1725 or 514/282-1725), provokesmemories of lovers' hotels by the Seine.Best Established Boutique Hotel:When it opened, Hotel Le Germain,2050 rue Mansfield(tel. 877/333-2050or 514/849-2050), brought a neededjolt of panache to the too-often-stodgycorps of downtown business hotels, andhelped inspire a boom in similarly small,stylish hotels in Vieux-Montreal. Best NewBoutique Hotels(Posh Category): TheHotel Le St-James, 355 rue St-Jacquesouest, Vieux-Montreal(tel. 866/841-3111 or514/841-3111), raises the bar to an almost

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impossibly high level, with a superblysybaritic spa and gorgeous grand hall.The Hotel Nelligan, 106 rue St-Paulouest, Vieux-Montreal(tel. 877/788-2040 or514/788-2040), which expanded from 63to 105 units in 2007, counters with a greatfull-service restaurant and rooftop terrace.Best New Boutique Hotels(MinimalistCategory): Also in Vieux-Montreal, HotelSt-Paul, 355 rue McGill(tel. 866/380-2202or 514/380-2222), softens its austere lineswith pale cream walls and fur throws, whilethe Hotel Gault, at 449 rue Ste-Helene(tel.866/904-1616 or 514/904-1616), leavesits raw concrete walls uncovered and usescandy-colored furniture that was startlinglymodern in the 1950s. Best Lobby forPretending That You're Rich: A tie-- thewoody, hushed Ritz-Carlton Montrealexudes old money, while the newer HotelLe St-James caters to the internationalBluetooth-using bespoked-suit-wearingset. Best B&B: Located in a 1723 housein Vieux-Montreal, Auberge Les Passantsdu Sans Soucy, 171 rue St-Paul ouest(tel.514/842-2634), is more upscale and stylishthan most of its peers, and it's located nearthe top restaurants and clubs in the oldtown. Best Service: It's tough to chooseamong the troops at the Hotel Le St-James, the Ritz-Carlton Montreal, andthe Hotel InterContinental Montreal, 360rue St-Antoine ouest(tel. 514/987-9900).All three teams display an almost equalamount of grace and care when it comes totending to their guests. Best Hotel HealthClub: Hotel Omni Mont-Royal, 1050 rueSherbrooke ouest(tel. 800/843-6664 or514/284-1110), lays on yoga classes, freeweights and weight machines, saunas,a steam room, whirlpools, a year-roundheated outdoor pool, and massages torecover from the workout. A close second:Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Restaurants InsightsNuances(1 av. du Casino, in the Casinode Montreal; tel. 514/392-2708): Thisgourmet resto at the top of the city's casinogot an impressive face-lift in early 2007that made the decor as contemporaryand elegant as the food-- all creamywalls, white linen, and pale-green leatherbanquettes. A room with real star power.Toque!(900 Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle;tel. 514/499-2084): Superstar chef/ownerNorman Laprise has been thrilling Montreal

gourmands for years. In dishes of startlinginnovation, he brings together diverseingredients that have rarely appearedbefore on restaurant plates. There's littlepoint in describing individual dishes, for hemoves on before any of his food achievessignature status. Best Budget Restaurant:The tapas phenomenon gave rise to therampant small plates fashion, and Pintxo,in Plateau Mont-Royal at 256 rue Royest, 2 blocks west of rue St-Denis(tel.514/844-0222), does its own variationson the Spanish Basque originals. It has asecond, smaller resto at 2 rue Sherbrookeest, at the corner of boulevard St-Laurent.Best Expensive Restaurant: Amongseveral candidates, this vote goes to Vieux-Montreal's Version Laurent Godbout,295 rue St-Paul est(at rue St-Claude; tel.514/871-9135). This chef-entrepreneurhas an astonishingly sure hand with theinnovations he brings to the Mediterraneancanon. Best Restaurant, Period: Ever-questing Normand Laprise and partnerChristine Lamarche keep Vieux-Montreal'sToque!, 900 Place Jean-Paul Riopelle,near rue St-Antoine(tel. 514/499-2084),in a league of its own. Postmodern anddazzling. Best Classic French Bistro:Plateau Mont-Royal's most Parisian bistro,L'Express, 3927 rue St-Denis(at rueRoy; tel. 514/845-5333), is where youcome to see what the Francophone partof this city is all about. From the black-and-white checked floor to the grand,high ceilings, this is where Old Francemeets New France. Best for a Low-Key Date Night: The charming bistro LaMontee de Lait, tucked in on a nondescriptside street in Plateau Mont-Royal at371 rue Villeneuve est(at the corner ofrue Drolet; tel. 514/289-9921), keepsyou close to your honey-- and puts youelbow-to-elbow with neighbors. Best for aCelebration: Nuances, 1 av. du Casino(tel.514/392-2708), got a dazzling face-lift in2007 and now looks as contemporary asthe food on its plates. A gracious, multi-starredtemple de cuisine atop the Montrealcasino on Ile Ste-Helene. Best Value:Even the most expensive four-coursetable d'hote dinner at Le Bourlingueur,in Vieux-Montreal at 363 St-Francois-Xavier(near rue St-Paul; tel. 514/845-3646),comes in under C$17(US$15/#7.30). BestGuilty Treat:Poutine is a plate of frenchfries--frites-- drenched with gravy afloat withcheese curds, a bedrock Quebec comfortfood that's better than it sounds. Many

say it should stay unadorned, but at AuPied de Cochon, 536 rue Duluth, nearrue St-Hubert in Plateau Mont-Royal(tel.514/281-1114), the dish is elevated tomid-haute levels with the addition of foiegras. Best Smoked Meat: There areother contenders, but Chez SchwartzCharcuterie Hebraique de Montreal,known simply as Schwartz's, at 3895 bd.St-Laurent, north of rue Prince-Arthur inPlateau Mont-Royal(tel. 514/842-4813),serves up the definitive version of regionalbrisket. Best Seafood: Few Montrealrestos focus on fish, but Ferreira Cafe,1446 rue Peel near boulevard Maisonnuevedowntown(tel. 514/848-0988), doesextremely well by its repertoire of marine-focused Portuguese cuisine. Best Burgers:Local conviction is that the biggest,juiciest burgers are assembled at the LatinQuarter's La Paryse, 302 rue Ontarioest, at rue Sanguinet(tel. 514/842-2040).Nipping at its heels, though, is the youngMeatMarket, 4415 bd. St-Laurent justsouth of avenue du Mont-Royal(tel.514/223-2292), a gourmet burger jointin Mile End. Best Vegan: A standard-bearer since 1997, Plateau Mont-Royal'sAux Vivres moved to new digs at 4631bd. St-Laurent, near avenue du Mont-Royal(tel. 514/842-3479) in 2006 andhas been packing in vegans, vegetarians,and the meat-eaters who love them eversince. Best Pizza: The name says it all:Pizzedelic, 39 rue Notre-Dame ouest(nearbd. St-Laurent; tel. 514/286-1200), wherethey do anything from same-old tomatoand cheese to designer concoctionswith"shrimp satay ginger." Best Bagels:Even native New Yorkers have to give itup for Montreal's bagels, which are clearlysuperior to versions produced south ofthe border. Both St-Viateur Bagel& Cafe,at 1127 av. Mont-Royal est, near avenueChristophe-Colomb in Plateau Mont-Royal(tel. 514/528-6361), and FairmontBagel, at 74 av. Fairmont ouest, near rueSt-Urbain in Mile End(tel. 514/272-0667),are the places to assess that claim. BestOutdoor Terrace: Serious food isn't thelure at Le Jardin Nelson, 407 PlaceJacques-Cartier(tel. 514/861-5731). Music--classical or jazz-- is what draws the crowdsto this central Vieux-Montreal locale topartake of crepes and pizzas under thecrabapple tree in the garden. Best Late-Night Eats: If the bagels from FairmontBagel won't do the trick(the hole-in-the-wall shop is open 24 hr.), our heart is still

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with L'Express. It's in the center of thePlateau neighborhood and serves until3am. Best Wine Bar: Aszu, in Vieux-Montreal at 212 rue Notre Dame ouest nearrue St-Francois-Xavier(tel. 514/845-5436),features between 60 and 70 wines by theglass every night.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Nightlife InsightsMontréal's reputation for effervescentnightlife reaches back to the RoaringTwenties-- specifically to the United States'13-year experiment with Prohibition from1920 to 1933. Americans streamed intoMontréal for temporary relief from alcoholdeprivation(while Canadian distillers andbrewers made fortunes-- few of them withmeticulous regard for legalistic niceties).Montréal already enjoyed a sophisticatedand slightly naughty reputation as the Parisof North America, which added to the allure.Nearly a century later, clubbing andbarhopping remain popular activities, withnightspots keeping much later hours inMontréal than in arch-rival Toronto, whichstill heeds Calvinist notions of propriety andearly bedtimes.Nocturnal pursuits are often as culturalas they are social. The city boasts its ownoutstanding symphony, dozens of French-and English-language theater companies,and the incomparable performancecompany Cirque du Soleil. It's also onthe standard concert circuit that includesChicago, Boston, and New York, sointernationally known entertainers, musicgroups, and dance companies pass throughfrequently. A decidedly French enthusiasmfor film, as well as the city's ever-increasingreputation as a movie-production center,ensures support for cinemas showcasingexperimental, offbeat, and foreign films.A new discount ticket office for Montréalcultural events opened in summer2007. Called Vitrine culturelle deMontréal("cultural window of Montréal"; tel.514/285-4545; www.vitrineculturelle.com),it's located at 145 rue Sainte-Catherineouest in Place des Arts. It includes a centralinformation office and full-price tickets aswell as last-minute deals.

In summer, the city becomes even livelierthan usual. The biggest of the bunch is the3-day Grand Prix du Canada, the country'sonly Formula 1 auto race that roars onto IleNotre-Dame and brings the partying intodowntown in June.Concentrations of pubs and discosunderscore the city's linguistic dichotomy.While there's a great deal of crossover,the parallel blocks of rue Crescent, rueBishop, and rue de la Montagne north ofrue Ste-Catherine have a pronouncedAnglophone(English-speaking) character,while Francophones(French speakers)dominate the Quartier Latin, with college-age patrons most evident along the lowerreaches of rue St-Denis and their yuppieelders gravitating to the nightspots of theslightly more uptown blocks of the samestreet. Vieux-Montréal(Old Montréal),especially along rue St-Paul, has a moreuniversal quality, and many of the bars andclubs there feature live jazz, blues, andfolk music. In the Plateau Mont-Royalarea, boulevard St-Laurent, parallel to St-Denis and known locally as"The Main,"has become a miles-long haven of hiprestaurants and clubs, roughly from rueSherbrooke up to rue Laurier. It's a goodplace to wind up in the wee hours, asthere's always someplace with the welcomemat still out, even after the official 3amclosings.Most bars and clubs don't charge cover,and when they do, it's rarely more than C$10(US$8.70/£4.30). Beer is usually in theC$4-to-C$7(US$3.50-US$6.10/£1.70-£3)range, while cocktails are typically C$7 to C$12(US$6.10-US$10/£3-£5.15).Smoking has been banned in bars andrestaurants throughout the province since2006.Checking What's On-- Fordetails on performances or specialevents when you're in town,pick up a free copy of MontréalScope(www.montrealscope.com), a weeklyads-and-events booklet usually availablein hotel receptions, or the free weeklypapers Mirror(www.montrealmirror.com)and Hour(www.hour.ca), both inEnglish, or Voir(www.voir.ca) and

Ici(www.icimontreal.com), both inFrench, available all over town. Alsoin French is the free monthly Nightlifemagazine(www.nightlifemagazine.ca).Fugues(www.fugues.com), available atthe tourist information office in the GayVillage, provides news and views of gayand lesbian events, clubs, restaurants,and activities. Extensive listings of largelymainstream cultural and entertainmentevents are posted at www.canada.comand www.montrealplus.ca.CinemaIn Montréal, English-language films areusually presented with subtitles in French.However, when the initials"VF"(forversionfrançaise) follow the title of a non-Francophone movie, it means that themovie has been dubbed into French.Policies vary on English subtitles onnon.English-language films-- the best ideais to ask at the box office. Besides the manyfirst-run movie houses that advertise in thedaily newspapers, Montréal is rich in"ciné-clubs," which tend to be slightly older andshow second-run, foreign, and art films atreduced prices.Admission to films is usually about C$10(US$8.70/£4.30) for adults, and less forstudents, seniors, children, and afternoonshows.Foreign-language and independent filmsare the menu at Ex-Centris, 3536 bd.St-Laurent(tel. 514/847-2206; www.ex-centris.com), and the architecturalsurroundings are at least as interesting--sort of a post.machine-age spaceship. Goinside and try to find the ticket booth to askabout showtimes just to see what we mean.A casual and nifty bar-café, Café Méliès, ison the premises. The films are in Englishabout half the time.The National Film Board ofCanada(Cinema ONF) at 1564 rueSt-Denis(tel. 514/496-6887), showsCanadian and international films, primarilyin English and French, particularly classics.Also at the theater/office is the uniqueCinéRobothèque, a high-tech screeningcenter that lets visitors browse a multimediacatalog and then watch a film at a personalviewing station.

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Imposing, sometimes visually disorientingimages confront viewers of the five-storyscreen in the IMAX Theatre in the Centredes Sciences de Montréal in the Vieux-Port(tel. 877/496-4724). Many of the filmsare suitable for the entire family.GamblingThe Casino de Montréal(tel. 800/665-2274or 514/392-2746; www.casino-de-montreal.com), Québec's first, is housed inrecycled space: The complex re-uses whatwere the French and Québec Pavilions onIle Notre-Dame during Expo'67(the World'sFair that Montréal hosted). Asymmetricaland groovy, the buildings provide adramatic setting for games of chance.Four floors contain more than 115 gametables, including roulette, craps, blackjack,baccarat, and varieties of poker, and thereare more than 3,200 slot machines. Its fourrestaurants get good reviews, especiallythe elegant Nuances. There are alsolive shows in the Cabaret, a 500-seatperformance hall. No alcoholic beveragesare served in the gambling areas, andpatrons must be 18 and dressed neatly(thefull dress code is posted online). Open 24hours a day, 7 days a week, the Casino isentirely smoke-free, with outside smokingareas. Overnight packages are available.To get there you can drive or take the Métroto the Parc Jean-Drapeau stop and thenwalk or take the Casino shuttle bus(no.167). From May through October, there'salso a free shuttle bus(navette) that leaveson the hour from the downtown InfotouristeCentre at 1001 rue du Square-Dorchester.Call tel. 514/392-2746 for information onthe shuttle and its other downtown stops.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Things to Do InsightsListen to Jazz: Downtown, Old Town,the Latin Quarter, all over, this is a favoritepastime of locals and visitors alike,especially in late June and early July duringthe renowned Montreal Jazz Festival.Savor Top-Notch Cuisine at AffordablePrices: Experience all of French cuisine'spermutations-- traditional, haute, bistro,original Quebecois-- along with the city'sfusion hybrids and ethnic restaurants theway the locals do: by ordering the table

d'hote specials. You'll get to indulge inthree or more courses for a fixed pricethat is only slightly more than the cost ofan a la carte main course alone. Mostfull-service restaurants offer the option, ifonly at midday. Explore Vieux-Montreal:The old quarter has an overwhelminglyEuropean flavor. Wander Place Jacques-Cartier, the most engaging of the district'ssquares; explore museums and thestunning architecture of the churches; strollor meander on a bike along the revitalizedwaterfront. Shop: Browse the shops ofworld-class domestic designers, from theup-and-coming to the well established;search for Inuit(Eskimo) sculptures of thehighest order(with prices to match); andtake in the scores of eclectic antiquesshops along rue Notre-Dame between rueGuy and avenue Atwater.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Travel TipsBy MetroFor speed and economy, nothing beatsMontréal's Métro system for getting around.The stations are marked on the street byblue-and-white signs that show a circleenclosing a down-pointing arrow. Althoughstarting to show its age(the system hasrun at a deficit in recent years), andrecently afflicted with waves of graffiti,the Métro's relatively clean, quiet trainswhisk passengers through an expandingnetwork of underground tunnels. In April2007, the orange line(no. 2 on our map)was extended three stops farther into thenorth. The new end station is Montmorency,making it the train"direction" you'll see onplatforms(instead of Henri-Bourassa).Fares are by the ride, not by distance.Single rides cost C$2.75(US$2.40/£1.15),a strip of six tickets is C$12(US$10/£5.05), and a weekly pass, good forunlimited rides, is C$19(US$17/£8.15).Reduced fares are available to childrenand, with special Métro ID cards, seniorsand students. Tourist passes are good forshort visits: unlimited rides for 1 day for C$9(US$7.85/£3.85) or 3 days for C$17(US$15/£7.30). Buy tickets at the booth in anystation or from a convenience store.

To enter the system, slip your ticket intothe slot in the turnstile or show yourpass to the attendant in the booth. If youplan to transfer to a bus, take a transferticket(correspondence) from the machinejust inside the turnstile; every Métro stationhas one, and it allows you a free transferto a bus wherever you exit the subway.Remember to take the transfer ticket at thestation where youfirst enter the system.If you start a trip by bus and intend tocontinue on the Métro, ask the driver for atransfer.The Métro runs from about 5:30am to12:30am. If you plan to be out late, checkthe website at www.stm.info or call tel.514/786-4636 for the exact times of the lasttrain on each line.The Métro is not immune to transit strikes;an action in May 2007 led to reduced hoursof operation for several days. And onecaveat: Convenient as the Métro is, therecan be substantial distances betweenstations, and accessibility is sometimesdifficult for people with mobility problems.For example, to get from the lobby of thecentrally located Fairmont The QueenElizabeth hotel to the platform of theBonaventure station"directly beneath" takesthe equivalent of 3 city blocks and the useof 4 escalators.By BusBuses cost the same as Métro trains, andMétro tickets are good on buses, too. Exactchange is required to pay bus fares incash. Although they run throughout thecity(and give riders the decided advantageof traveling aboveground), buses don't runas frequently or as swiftly as the Métro.If you start a trip on the bus and want totransfer to the Métro, ask the bus driver fora transfer ticket.By TaxiThere are plenty of taxis run by severaldifferent companies. Cabs come in a varietyof colors and styles, so their principaldistinguishing feature is the plastic sign onthe roof. At night, the sign is illuminatedwhen the cab is available. Fares continueto increase, largely due to hikes in gasprices, with an initial charge of C$3.15(US$2.75) at the flag drop, C$1.45(US$1.25)

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per kilometer( 2/3 mile), and C55¢(US48¢)per minute of waiting. A short ride fromone point to another downtown usuallycosts about C$6(US$5.20). Tip about 10%to 15%. Members of hotel and restaurantstaffs can call cabs, many of which aredispatched by radio. They line up outsidemost large hotels or can be hailed on thestreet.Montréal taxi drivers range in temperamentfrom sullen cranks to the unstoppablyloquacious. Some know their city well,others have sketchy knowledge and poorlanguage skills, so it's a good idea to haveyour destination written down-- with thecross street-- to show your driver.Cyclists will be glad to know that severaltaxi companies participate in the"Taxi+Vélo"(vélo means bicycle) program. Callone of them, specify that you have a biketo transport, and a cab with a speciallydesigned rack arrives. Up to three bikescan be carried for an extra fee of C$3(US$2.60/£1.30) each. The companies arelisted at www.velo.qc.ca(search for"taxi"), orcall tel. 514/521-8356.By CarMontréal is an easy city to navigate bycar. Visitors arriving by plane or train,however, will probably want to rely on publictransportation and cabs. A rental car cancome in handy, though, for trips outside oftown or if you plan to drive to Québec City.Rentals-- Terms, cars, and prices forrentals are similar to those in the UnitedStates, and all the larger U.S. companiesoperate in Canada. Basic rates are aboutthe same from company to company,although a little comparison shoppingcan unearth modest savings. A chargeis usually levied when you return a car ina city other than the one in which it wasrented.All the companies listed here havecounters at Trudeau Airport(the localnumbers at the terminal are listedhere). Major car-rental companiesinclude Avis(tel. 800/437-0358 or514/636-1902); Budget(tel. 800/268-8900or 514/636-0052); Hertz(tel. 800/263-0600or 514/636-9530); National(tel.

800/387-4747 or 514/636-9030); andThrifty(tel. 800/367-2277 or 514/631-5567).If you'll be doing much driving inMontréal, pick up the pocket-size atlasby JDM Géo. It's published by MapArt(www.mapart.com) and sold at gas stationsthroughout Canada.Gasoline-- Gasoline and diesel fuelare sold by the liter, and are significantlymore expensive than in the UnitedStates(Europeans will find the prices lessof a shock). With recent prices of C$1.15 aliter(US$1/49p), and 3.78 liters to 1 gallon,that comes out to about US$4.35 a gallon.It costs about C$40(US$35/£17) to fill thetank of a small car with the lowest grade ofunleaded gasoline.Parking-- It can be difficult to park forfree on the heavily trafficked streets ofdowntown Montréal, but there are plentyof metered spaces. Look around beforewalking off without paying. Meters are setwell back from the curb so they won't beburied by plowed snow in winter. Parkingcosts C$1 an hour, and meters are in effectweekdays until 9pm and weekends until6pm. If there are no parking meters in sight,you're not off the hook. The city has startedto install new black metal kiosks that servea number of spaces on a street. Look fora column about 6 feet tall with a white"P"in a blue circle. Press the"English" button,enter the letter from the space where youare parked, then pay with cash or a creditcard, following instructions on the screen.In addition, check for signs notingrestrictions, usually showing a redcircle with a diagonal slash. The wordsLIVRAISON SEULEMENT, for example,mean"delivery only." Most downtownshopping complexes have undergroundparking lots, as do the big downtown hotels.Some of the hotels don't charge extra ifyou want to take your car in and out duringthe day-- useful if you plan to do somesightseeing by car.Driving Rules-- The limited-access expressways in Québec arecalledautoroutes, distances are given inkilometers(km), and speed limits are givenin kilometers per hour(kmph). BecauseFrench is the official language of the

province, some highway signs are inFrench only, although Montréal's autoroutesand bridges often bear dual-languagesigns.One traffic signal function often confusesnewcomers: Should you wish to make aturn and you know that the street runs inthe correct direction, you may be surprisedto initially see just a green arrow pointingstraight ahead instead of a green lightpermitting the turn. The arrow is just to givepedestrians time to cross the intersection.After a few moments, the light will turn froman arrow to a regular green light and youcan proceed.Turning right on a red light is prohibitedon the island of Montréal, except wherespecifically allowed by an additional greenarrow. Outside the island of Montréal, it isnow legal to turn right after stopping at redlights. The change has caused authoritiesto put up numerous signs at what theybelieve to be dangerous intersectionsspecifically prohibiting that move.Seat-belt use is required by law whiledriving or riding in a car in Québecprovince.Note: Too many of the region's driverstake perverse pride in their reputation asdangerously fast at the wheel and areprone to such maneuvers as sudden U-turns or cutting across two lanes to snare aparking space. Growing indignation at suchpractices, with newspapers decrying excessspeed and the accidents that result from it,doesn't seem to have curbed the behavior.Be aware.July 1: Citywide Moving Day!-- Montréalis an island of renters, and close to 100,000of them move from old apartments to newones every July 1-- that date, and only thatdate. It coincides with Canada's NationalDay, ensuring that separatist-mindedFrancophone Québécois won't have time tocelebrate a holiday they have no intentionof observing anyway.All but certain to be miserably hotand humid, July 1 is a trial that can,nevertheless, be hilarious to observe. Seefamilies struggle to get bedroom sets andlarge appliances down narrow outdoorstaircases! Watch sidewalks become

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obstacle courses of baby cribs, bicycles,and overflowing cardboard boxes! Hearthe cacophony of horns as streets becomeclogged with every serviceable van, truck,and SUV!Later in the day, hundreds of people getto their new digs and discover gifts of junk

no longer desired by their predecessors--busted furniture, pantries of old food, pitifulplants.No one can explain why reason didn'tprevail long ago in the form of a mandatedstaggered schedule. One thing that doesn't

take much thought, though, is that you'llwant to either be someplace else on thatday, or put on a strong backpack to walkaround and do some good trash-picking.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.