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http://w w w .montereycountyw eekly.com/new s/2011/may/12/new -moonen/ May 31, 2011

New Moonen | MontereyCountyWeekly.com

The bluefin tuna is done, says Rick Moonen, with uncharacteristic pessimism. Though a man ofunabashed hope, the sustainable seafood chef knows his science, and appetites: The mostoptimistic estimates put the Atlantic bluefin population at 20 percent of their numbers from 40 years

ago, a drop which most scientists equate with the brink of annihilation, and if sushi-driveneconomics are any measure, its western cousin cant be far behind last year a 500-pound Pacificbluefin sold for $170,000 at a Tokyo fish auction.

Moonens hope, in the face of bluefin realities, and the precipitous decline of other iconic marinespecies and their ecosystems, is founded largely on the premise that we might be turning a corner,that there are others out there who care as much about fish and the ocean as he does. Andcertainly, hes found that in Monterey: The Aquariums landmark exhibit Fishing For Solutions, whichran from 1997 to 1999, featured one of the first-ever lists of sustainable seafood the SeafoodWatch an instant hit for those concerned about the state of the seas. Finally, there was a blueprintfor responsibly enjoying delicacies from the deep.

Many forward-looking chefs were eager to capitalize on the increased consumer awareness, and insome circles (notably, at Oceana, where Moonen was cooking in New York), sardines soonbecame sexier than orange roughy. It is this marriage of the sustainable to the delicious thatinspired the Aquariums first Cooking For Solutionsa decade ago.

A lot has changed in those 10 years, and Moonen, the honored guest at this years festivities as theAquariums Chef of the Year, sees a shift in momentum that he takes to heart. Its been fun to seethat tipping point, that emotional embrace of the message, he says.

This years highly anticipated 10th Solutions is a reflection of that momentum, and promises to be

the best yet, extended to three days from two, and boasting an unprecedented lineup of activitiesand all-star chefs that include (aside from Moonen) Michael Cimarusti, William Dissen, VirginiaWillis, and the Aquariums own Cindy Pawlcyn.

For most of the weekend, the toughest task (aside from securing a ticket) will be in the choosing you cant do it all but Friday night, its all gala: With dishes from 70 top spots that includeBerkeleys slow food beacon Chez Panisse, San Franciscos fusion mecca The Slanted Door, localgems Fishwife, Passionfish and Montrio, national standouts The Market Place (a farm-to-tablepioneer in Asheville, N.C.) and emmer&rye (a seasonal luminary in Seattle, Wash.), as well aswines from 60 organic and sustainable wineries including Bernardus, Estancia and Heller, it isdoubtful that a diet for a small planet has ever partied this big.

Saturday morning serves up cooking demos from Cimarusti, Dissen and Willis, gardening andseafood presentations from P. Allen Smith,Alton Brown and Robert Irvine, six food and wineadventures that feature incredible lunches from top chefs (too many to name) at local vineyards orseaside estates, the new salon series with cookbook authors Myra Goodman, Maria Rodale andKristine Kidd, and in the evening, the already-sold-out seafood challenge, a cookoff la Iron Chefon the seaside patio of the Monterey Plaza Hotel.

Sunday kicks off with a Champagne and Cajun-inspired buffet, an afternoon of more mind andpalate-expanding presentations, and a demo from Portland-based sushi chef Brandon Hill ofBamboo, the only certified sustainable sushi restaurant in the U.S.

Both Saturday and Sunday, the most economical way for many to take part is just by visiting theAquarium, where one can sample local produce and sustainable seafood delicacies, attendcooking demos, mingle with local growers and enjoy the Kids Zone for the price of admission.

CFS inspires annual visits for Moonen.

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I have a longstanding relationship with the Aquarium, he says. They address every single issue overfishing, bycatch, habitat destruction, health concerns and its all broken down into a trafficlight. (The Seafood Watch color codes choices as best, good and avoid, with green, yellow andred.)

Moonens collaboration with the Aquarium came naturally: as he was making a name for himself inNew York in the early 90s, he was approached by the nonprofit Seaweb, and signed on to help lead

a spirited defense of the severely threatened swordfish.His career since has been marked by one success after another his New York restaurant rmreceived three stars from the New York Times culminating with his current venture Rick Moonensrm seafood and r bar caf in Las Vegas. What better place to make a statement than Sin City? hesays. 60,000 pounds of shrimp are consumed in Las Vegas every day. Thats more than the rest ofthe U.S. combined.

Moonen distributes thousands of pocket Seafood Watch guides, and is often on the road year-round to preach sustainability. The biggest challenge ahead, he admits, lies in changing peoplesmindsets, getting them excited about lesser known fish. Theres enough biomass in the ocean to

feed the world, Moonen says, but theres a very narrow acceptance of seafood. If your averageAmerican doesnt see salmon, tuna, cod, or Chilean sea bass on the menu, they order the porkchop Its a Catch-22 right now if you were a seafood distributor, would you carry a species thatwould be rotten in a few days?

The best things folks can do, in Moonens opinion, is follow the Aquariums lead. If people wouldust follow [the Watch list], wed be in a much better place.

Scientists and chefs can only do so much, he says. Ultimately, it is on the people to create a seachange.

COOKING FOR SOLUTIONS takes place May 20-22. The gala (7:30-10:30pmFriday) is $150 general; $120 members. Saturday-Sunday events at the Aquariumare free with admission. See www.montereybayaquarium.org for details.

http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/