ministry brochure istanbul

8/14/2019 Ministry Brochure Istanbul

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The city that is discovered as you experienceit, and loved as discovered

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istanbulThe capital of empires The city that dominated

continents The cradle of civilisation Themeeting point of cultures and civilisationsThese are some of the thousands of phrasesthat describe stanbul. Yet neither words nor anyamount of reading or listening are sufficient totruly describe and become familiar with the city.

Only when you walk along its historic streets,when you see with your own eyes the architecturalmasterpieces of Byzantine and Ottoman Empiresin their original setting, when you enjoy thepanoramic vistas of its unique location, and whenyou start to explore its mystical beauties only

then will you begin to discover, and to fall in lovewith stanbul

If the world were a single state, stanbulwould have been its capital.

Napoleon Bonaparte


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stanbul is the most developed and largest city

of Turkey, and the latest discoveries indicatethat the history of human habitation goes back400,000 years ago. The Megarians settled andfounded the city of Byzantium that later lentits name to the Byzantine Empire. However,the first settlers in the region established

their city Chalcedon (Kadky), on the landof blind people which was strategically lessimportant. And the Megarians, led by an Oracle,became aware of the beauty of Seraglio Point(Sarayburnu), and they established their citythere on the opposite side of the Chalcedon.


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Today the historical peninsula is the most

beautiful part of stanbul, and is strategically wellplaced. The city is surrounded by a seascapepeppered with distant islands, and this, togetherwith the Golden Horn (Hali), the estuary thatthrusts into the land along the peninsula, makestanbul a unique place and, throughout its

long history, a city that many desired to conquer.But the desire to possess the city cannotbe explained only by its strategic position orunsurpassed beauty; it has a different attraction,a mystical magnetism that drew states, empiresand great conquerors towards it. This attraction

led to a long history of conflict, conquest and


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occupation between those determined to

maintain their hold on the city and those whostrove to capture it.

For more than 1,500 years stanbul was thecapital of two empires, first the Byzantine andlater the Ottoman. It was beautified accordingly

with magnificent monuments and became ametropolis where diverse cultures, nations andreligions mingle. Those cultures, nations andreligions are the small pieces that form themosaic of stanbul. Perhaps some of those littlepieces do not mean much to you, but as an

ensemble they make up the unique majesty ofstanbul.


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The Royal Purple Years of stanbul:The Period of the Byzantine Empire

Royal purple is the colour of the Byzantineimperial family. The Byzantine emperors calledthemselves the Royal Purple Blooded; theywere born in purple-decorated rooms, they worepurple mantles when they were enthroned, andthey were buried in purple sarcophagi; so theirwhole lives were identified with purple.

The purple years of stanbul may be consideredto have started in 330 when EmperorConstantine declared the city the capital of hisempire. Until 1453, when it was conquered bythe Ottomans, the city had served as the capitalof the Byzantine Empire. During the sovereigntyof Byzantine Empire it was adorned with severalworks of art to become the most magnificentcity of the world, even in those years when theByzantines themselves were enfeebled.

When the Roman Empire needed a base tostage its campaigns towards the East, therewas not much need to explore further afield:stanbuls unique location and strategic positionmade it the best choice. The capital was firstcalled New Rome, and indeed the city is quitesimilar to Rome. Both cities were based on seven


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hills; the original settlement area of stanbul wassurrounded on three sides by the Sea of Marmara

and the Golden Horn, while Rome was surroundedby the River Tiber; the layout of both cities lookslike a scalene triangle. Perhaps those features wereinfluential in choosing the location of New Rome.However, physical similarities were not deemedenough, and so every resource of the empire was

drawn up to enhance the magnificence of the newcity.

Byzantium was in fact a continuation of Rome, andthe Byzantines called themselves Romans evenuntil the day their empire came to an end. Yet therewas a significant difference between the Byzantinesand their ancestors: Christianity. In Byzantium,Roman temples were replaced with churches.Displaying unique examples of Byzantine paintingand architecture, these buildings were scatteredacross the historical peninsula as well as in otherparts of stanbul. Some of the most importantByzantine masterpieces in stanbul are publicbuildings such as the hippodrome, water cisterns,palaces, thoroughfares and public squares and thecity walls.

The identity of stanbul that began to be formedby the Byzantines was further shaped during theperiod of Ottoman Empire.


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9Mimar Sinan

The Most Valuable Heritage of theOttoman Empire

istanbulThe reason why stanbul is one of the mostbeautiful cities of the world stems from the factthat its natural beauty has been enhanced byhuman endeavour. The most important buildingactivities started in the Byzantine Period, andthe city was then embellished further during theOttoman Period.

Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror declaredstanbul the capital of Ottoman Empire after heconquered the city in 1453. Over the next 450years the city was adorned with superb Ottomanworks of art. Building activities after the conquestgained apace during the reign of Sultan BayezidII, with the finest works built by Mimar Sinan,the Chief Royal Architect. This world famousarchitect put his signature on the silhouette ofstanbul with several masterpieces. Of course, he

was fortunate to live through the most gloriousperiod of Ottoman history, a coincidence thatplayed a major role in his work. Sultan Sleymanthe Magnificent generously put the riches of theempire at the disposal of Sinan in order to enablehim to beautify stanbul. Sinan responded

to his generosity by adorning stanbulwith buildings that still evokeadmiration in visitors thanks to hissuperlative talent and skill. Sinansapprentices and disciples continuedthis work after him, so that stanbul,


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TheTourGuideofstanbul; anAsianaswell asa EuropeanCity

Asia andEuropeareliketwo loverswho longtoembrace but cannot becauseofthestraits.Theunionofthose two lovers isstanbul. Besidesthese twocontinentsit has alsounifiedmanypeoplesfromdifferentculturesforthousandsofyears.While inone part youcanexperience themysteryof the East, intheother you canexploretheEuropeanaspect. Inmany areas ofthecitytheminarets ofmosques,thesymbols of Islam,standhigh next to churchesand synagogues.Both modern andhistorical architect

urecanbeseenonthesame street, and hiddenbeautyspots canbefound all across the city.

stanbul cannot be seenor experiencedinwithall its glorious coloursin just acoupleofdays.The visitor needs

a couple of weeks toexplorethismagnificent city.Youhave towalk alongthe


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streets to get the feel of the city, and avoid publictransport if you are to enjoy the experience offinding hidden gems. The following are the routesthat we recommend you try.

The Historical Peninsula:Within the RoyalWalls; Sultanahmet and Environs; fromEminn to Sleymaniye From Sleymaniyeto Eminn; Fatih along the Golden Horn. Thewalk at Fener and Balat as well as sightseeing

along the Divanyolu (which follows the ByzantineMese road), where you can see examplesof monumental architecture, will help you tofamiliarise yourself with the historical peninsula.


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The European Side of the stanbul Strait:Galata and its environs have been the centre ofcommerce since the antiquity. A walk from hereto Ortaky or to Beyolu, the heart of stanbulsentertainment industry, would be a good start.

The Asian Face of stanbul:On the Asian sideof stanbul are Kadky and skdar which werehunting grounds and pleasure gardens duringthe Byzantine and Ottoman periods. A walkalong the Strait is also highly recommended.

Boat Tour on the stanbul Strait:A boat tour onthe Strait, connecting the Sea of Marmara to theBlack Sea, is a delightful way of seeing stanbulwithout setting foot either in Asia or in Europe.You can also take a boat trip to the Prince Islandsto escape the hustle and bustle of stanbul.


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The Historical Peninsula

The Heart of the Historical Peninsula:

Sultanahmet and Its Environs

The most magnificent of stanbuls monumentsare clustered on the historical peninsula, the

triangular piece of land surrounded by the Sea ofMarmara to the west and south, by the GoldenHorn to the north and by the city walls to theeast. The Megarians settled here and SeptimusSeverus, who was largely responsible for the pre-Byzantine settlement, paid particular attention

to this area. The city walls, which were builtaccording to plans that the Emperor Constantinedrew up with a spear, form the base of thetriangle.

The centre of the land that was the core of

stanbul was the area we know today asSultanahmet Square. The most prominentexamples of Byzantine and Ottoman architecturecan be seen in close proximity here.

In the Byzantine Period the centre of the city was

the Hippodrome and its environs. The palacewhich was the centre of power; Ayasofya (HagiaSophia) the most spectacular of the religiousbuildings, the Hippodrome which served asthe common entertainment centre and theYerebatan Sarnc (Yerebatan Cistern) which


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supplied most of the citys water, had all beengathered here at the city centre. The Hippodromewas the site of many riots as well as chariot racesin Byzantine Period. During the Ottoman timesthe square where the Hippodrome used to standbecame the site for the circumcision ceremoniesof the Sultans sons. These ceremonies lastedfor forty days and forty nights, during whichjugglers and magicians performed their tricks.This was also where the principal religious andstate buildings, including Topkap Palace, wereconstructed.

Sultanahmet Square

Yerebatan Cistern


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A tram line operates along Hdavendigar Street,

the road that climbs towards Sultanahmet fromSirkeci. The Royal City Walls enclose the gardensof Topkap Palace to the left. These walls haveseveral portals, and across the road the firstthing of interest is the former Bab- Ali (SublimePorte) which houses the Governors Office at

present. The name of this part means the portalof pashas, and it is the gate to the palace of theGrand Vizier. The term Bab- Ali later applied to allthe buildings in the complex. Renovated severaltimes in its history, the area has witnessed someof the most important episodes in Ottoman

history.

The road along the walls leads to one of themost important monuments of the ancient world,the magnificent Ayasofya, which bedazzles thevisitors.


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The most glorious architectural heritage ofByzantine Empire is Ayasofyawhich has beenreferred to as the eighth wonder of the world andit is one of the most important surviving works ofByzantine Period. Ayasofya was built under theauspices of Emperor Justinian I, who, along withEmperor Constantine, made great contributionsto stanbul. Massive in size and reputation,the basilica stood for centuries as one of theworlds most significant buildings, and, despitesuffering damage from natural disasters such asfire and earthquakes, has survived to this day.Ayasofya is not only renowned for its magnificent

architecture but also for its exquisite Byzantinemosaics.

The Emperor Justinian, who ruled during one ofthe most brilliant periods of Byzantine Empire,wished to construct a basilica surpassing the

legendary Solomons Temple. The outcome wasthe Ayasofya. The basilica was designed in aperiod when Byzantine religious architecture wasin search of new ideas, and Ayasofya becamefamous not only for the magnificence of itsconstruction but also as a superb and unique

example of Byzantine religious architecture.

Ayasofya


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The attempt to merge the basilica plan, whichhad been employed for churches until that era,with a central plan, and the important influenceof local architectural features of Anatolia wereapparent in Ayasofya. Its architects were alsofrom Anatolia. Most of the columns, capitals andmarbles used in the constructions were collectedand recycled from the sites of former buildings ofAnatolian antiquity. The columns of the Temple ofArtemis of Ephesus, one of the Seven Wondersof the World, were some of the reused material.

When the Ottomans captured stanbul, Ayasofyawas not deliberately damaged; on the contrary,many Turkish architects, including the renownedSinan, used their best skills to maintain themonument. Mimar Sinan thus played a crucialrole in preserving Ayasofya and enabling it tobe appreciated even today. The retaining wallshe built along the weaker sides of the buildingchecked the damage caused by the lateraloutward movement of the walls under themassive weight of the dome.


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This sacred place of Christianity was convertedto a holy shrine of Islam during the OttomanPeriod. The legends about the site that hadsurvived from the ancient times added toits sacred nature. Therefore, many OttomanSultans commissioned their tombs to be builtwithin the courtyard of Ayasofya. adrvan, theablution fountain, situated in the courtyard wascommissioned by Sultan Mahmut I in 1740. Asits construction coincided with the period whenOttoman architectural style was merging withEuropean styles, the elaborate decorationsand protruding eaves of the fountain reflect theinfluence of the Baroque.

The mosaics of Ayasofya, which were uncoveredafter it became a museum, are the foremostexamples of Byzantine art of the ninth to twelfthcenturies. Similarly, Ayasofya also boastsfine examples of Ottoman tile andcalligraphic arts.


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Yerebatan Cistern:One of stanbuls major

shortcomings was the insufficient supply ofdrinking water. However, neither the Byzantinesnor the Ottomans let their populations sufferbecause of that shortfall. Even before the citybecame the capital of Byzantine Empire therewere some attempts to bring water into the city,

and during the Byzantine Period several publiccisterns were built. One of the prime examplesof them is Yerebatan Cistern, located rightacross Ayasofya. It provided water to stanbulduring the Byzantine Period. It is also calledYerebatan Palace since it is the largest of all

cisterns in stanbul. When you climb down to themain holding area of the cistern you realise thatthe analogy is not baseless. The cisterns roofwas supported by 336 columns. One of themis known as the weeping column since it wasdecorated with crying eyes and eye drops which

are so skilfully carved that in the humid air of thecistern it seems as if the drops are really tricklingdown. The shallow water level in the cistern,

Yerebatan Cistern


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where small fish swim, and the wooden platformsbuilt just above the water level, lead the visitors

to the most attractive feature of the cistern thehead of Medusa, which is rumoured to turn theunwary gazer into stone if directly looked at in theeye. The medusa heads were used as the baseof columns, and it was believed that they werebrought here to protect the city from evil. That was

why they were placed upside down or sideways.

You may be reluctant to leave behind the cool andrefreshing air of the cistern; but there is more tosee above ground. First is the Haseki Hrrem

Hammam, the public bathhouse commissionedby Sultan Sleyman the Magnificent for his love,Hrrem Sultan (Roxelana). Built by Mimar Sinan,this bathhouse is situated between Ayasofyaand Sultan Ahmet Mosque. Hrrem Sultanwas brought to the palace to be trained as a

concubine in the harem (the sacrosanct femalequarters of the royal household). She managed toattract the attention of Sultan Sleyman with hersmartness and beauty in quite a short space oftime. Hrrem Sultan commissioned many publicworks bearing her name, and so takes her place

of glory in Ottoman history. Her tomb is next to thetomb of Sultan Sleyman the Magnificent in thecourtyard of Sleymaniye Mosque, considered asone of the citys most treasured buildings.


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Sultan Ahmet Mosque:Sultan Ahmet Mosque,also known as the Blue Mosque, is one of the

monuments of stanbul that has become itssymbol. The tiles are superb examples of the tileart of the period, and even the actual number ofthe tiles used was recorded: exactly 21,043, eachof which is priceless, but collectively lent theircolour to the name of the mosque. There are a

total of 16erefes (muezzinsplatforms) onthe mosques minarets. That figure is areference to the fact that Ahmet was the16th sultan in the Ottoman succession.The architect of the mosque was oneof the apprentices of Mimar Sinan,Sedefkar (master of inlaying mother-of-

pearl) Mehmet Aga.

The tomb of Sultan Ahmet I, whocommissioned the mosque, was constructed

in the gardens of the mosque as a detachedbuilding next to the front courtyard. Oppositethe tomb stands the German Empires Gift tothe Ottomans, the Alman emesi (German


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Fountain). The fountain was a gift from KaiserWilhelm of Germany to commemorate his visitto stanbul in 1901, and all of its parts were

produced in Germany, hence it bears this name.The internal face of the dome was gilded. Itstands in the very place where the gate of theancient hippodrome stood, which was decoratedwith numerous statues and monuments.

The Hippodrome; the Site of Entertainmentand Rebellion, Victories and Massacres: TheHippodrome, with its final seating capacity of100,000 people, is located in the square facingthe Sultan Ahmet Mosque, and its constructionwas commenced by Septimus Severus in the

beginning of the 3rd century AD. However, it wasnot completed until the reign of Constantine,who made stanbul his capital and the mostprominent city of his time and who constantlystrove to make it greater and more beautifulthan Rome. During the Byzantine Period the

Hippodrome was the stage for the rivalrybetween the Blues and Greens, factions whowere engaged in passionate struggles to support

German Fountain

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their own racers, like our present-day sportsfans. Three of the important monuments of theHippodrome are still standing. They are theDikilita (Obelisk), the Ylanl Stun (Serpentine

Column), and the rme Stun (Walled Obelisk).These monuments were erected on the centralspine of the race track. Visitors should also bereminded that the monument to Porfirius, thelegendary champion of those races, can todaybe seen at stanbul Archaeological Museum. Let

us take a closer look at these monuments.

From the Ayasofya end of the square the firstmonument is the Dikilita(Obelisk), which wasbrought from Egypt with great difficulty, anderected only after months of effort by an army

of workers. Its hieroglyphs were decipheredas late as the 18th century; before that, duringthe Ottoman and Byzantine periods, the signscarved on the obelisk were believed to quell evilspirits and spells. When the inscriptions weredeciphered, it was understood that the obelisk

was commissioned by the Pharaoh ThutmosisIII of Egypt in the year 1550 BC. The originalobelisk was actually far taller than what is seen

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at the present time since more than half of it wascut off in order to place in on a cargo vesselavailable at the time. Erecting the obelisk took

such a long time and so much effort that theEmperor Theodosius, who succeeded in thetask in 390, had an inscription carved on thehuge cubic base of the erected obelisk, sayingthat despite its having presented a challengefor so many years, it had finally submitted to the

will of Emperor Theodosius. The inscription alsostated how it had been erected over a period of32 days, and contained depictions of that heroicfeat. Other carvings on the base depict thechariot races and life and wars of Theodosius.

The rme Stun (Walled Obelisk) is across thesquare and between them stands the smallerbronze monument which is known asYlanlStun (Serpentine Column). Ylanl Stun wasoriginally erected in the Temple of Apollo atDelphi in the 5th century BC to commemorate

a victory against the Persian army and it wasmade by melting weapons and armour capturedin the war. It was originally a leg that consisted


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of serpents coiled over each other and

at the top each serpents head wasseparated to form a tripod to holda vessel where an eternal flamewas kept burning for the memoryof the war. The vessel had longdisappeared and the serpentheads collapsed. The reason whyConstantine brought the monumentto stanbul is interesting. Thewidespread belief of the period wasthat the monument, consisting ofserpents, had a mystical power tokeep stanbul safe from snakesand vermin infestation. While theserpents necks and heads havenot survived to our day, partof one head was found duringexcavations and can be seenat the stanbul ArchaeologicalMuseums.

The rme Stun(WalledObelisk) is the last of theextant monuments. It wascommissioned by the Emperor

Constantine VII in 944, and, as itsname suggests, it was made ofcourses of masonry. When it wascompleted it supported a bronzesphere, and the marks of fixingstuds in the masonry indicate

that the obelisk was fully cladwith bronze plaques depictingthe wars of Emperor BasileusI of Macedonia. During theLatin occupation between 1204and 1261 those plaques were

removed and melted down tomake weapons, bronze goodsand to mint money.

Obelisk


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The Hippodrome was not always a place wherethe people were entertained and where joyouscries could be heard. The bloodiest uprisings of

history, the mass punishment of rebels and themassacre of thousands of people also took placethere. The infamous Nika Revolt, when manyByzantine monuments including Ayasofya wereset alight in 532, was put down in the bloodiestmanner there and thousands were killed on the

terraces and track of the Hippodrome. The squarealso played an important role in the Yenieri(Janissary) revolts and many were executed there.

The southern tip of the Hippodrome has survivedto the present day. Just looking at that part

enables us to realise how grandiose it oncewas. Despite being devastated during theByzantine Period, the Ottomans gave it a newlease of life by organising the state festivitiesthere, so it continued to serve as the place ofpublic entertainment. Various games and shows

were staged there, and the monuments of theHippodrome were depicted in Ottoman miniaturepaintings. Entertainments were also shown in


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the miniature paintings, for example the hightightropes set between the obelisks for rope

walkers, horse riders performing stunts beforethe Ylanl Stun, and tradesmen and artisanguilds displaying their rades on carts in aprocession during the festivities. The miniaturepaintings also show that the Chariot Races ofByzantium was replaced with cirit(the jereed,

a horseback team game where the aim was toscore hits with a blunt wooden javelin on theother teams riders).

Environs of the Hippodrome

As the environs of the Hippodrome were theearliest settlement areas of the city, the earliest

monuments of stanbul are situated here. Asthis area was also at the heart of Ottomangovernment, many important buildings wereconstructed here.

In the hierarchy of the Ottoman Empire, the

Grand Vizier was the person next to the Sultan,so their mansion houses were built closeto Topkap Palace, where state affairs were

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts


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discussed and settled. brahim Pasha was thevizier and son-in-law of Sultan Sleyman theMagnificent, and his palace was build near theHippodrome. This building serves as theMuseum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, onthe edge of the square. The museum exhibitsvaluable Seljuk and Ottoman carpets and otherartefacts covering a long period of history

ranging back to the 7th century. We recommendvisitors to spare time for the museum since theproduction of knotted carpets was one of themost important artistic activities of the Islamiccountries.

Binbirdirek Sarnc(Cistern of Philoxenos)is another monumental building that can bevisited on the same site. This was the second

largest cistern of stanbul after Yerebatan. As theOttomans preferred running instead of still waterit fell into disuse and was even forgotten for along period of time. Its construction started in the4th century, and it had 264 columns supportingthe vaults. At present it hosts occasional artistic

exhibitions. One of the most important buildingsaround the Hippodrome was the Byk Saray(Great Palace), which was the first imperial

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Binbirdirek Cistern


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Ayasofya

palace of stanbul and famous for its mosaics;in that sense it resembles the Ottoman Topkap

Palace. Both of them were set upon the landextending to the sea shore, and enlarged withadditional buildings over time. The BykSaray was first occupied in the 4th centuryand stayed in service until the 10th centurythrough extensions, though it gradually lost its

prominence. From the 11th century the favouritepalace of the Byzantine emperors became theTekfur Saray (Palace of the Porphyrogenitus),which is situated in present-day Fatih Districtnear the city walls. It is quite well preserved.

By contrast, the Byk Saray, which was situatedon the land between the Hippodrome and theshores of the Sea of Marmara, did not fare well,and today there are only a few remainders ofits past glory. The most important survival is themosaic floor, which was probably part of a grand

hall or a courtyard. The mosaics are believed todate from the period between 450 and 550, andare considered to be one of the finest examplesof early Byzantine art. They depict a widespectrum of scenes including realistic portrays ofdaily life including humans and animals in their

natural settings as well as mystical creatures,and childrens playing and games. These unique


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artefacts can be seen in the The Museum ofMosaics of the Great Palace in the Arasta Bazaar

situated on the seaward side of the Sultan AhmetMosque.

Some surviving parts of Byk Saray can beseen at the atladkap (Bull and Lion Gate)where the sea walls end. The area used to be the

summer palace of the Byzantine emperors. Builtin 842, the palace was also known as Bucaleonor Hormisdas Palace. Today the cellars, gate,and marble jambs can be seen.

The building known today as the Kk

Ayasofya Mosque was formerly the Church ofthe Saints Sergius and Bacchus. To get here,after leaving the Museum of Mosaics of theGreat Palace, follow the Kk Ayasofya Street;the church is not far from the palace. EmperorJustinian also made great efforts to enrich the

beauty of the city. And this building, constructedbetween 526 and 530, was commissioned byhim in memory of these both saints after a dreamhe had seen. The capitals and entablature withinscriptions surrounding the building are fromthe original 6th century building and are fine

examples of early Byzantine art.

The route can becompleted by a visit tothe Sokollu Mehmet

Pasha Mosque, which

was one of the greatestworks of Mimar Sinanand famous for its tiledecorations. The routereturns to SultanahmetSquare, and lets you to

take in the mesmerisingatmosphere.

Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque


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Within the Royal Walls:Topkap Palace

Sur-i Sultani is the place within the royal wallsthat encompasses Topkap Palace and its

environs. The walls surrounding the gardens ofTopkap Palace were commissioned by SultanMehmet the Conqueror. The seaward aspect ofthe gardens was surrounded by the Byzantinesea walls. The gardens of Topkap Palace arehome to several major Byzantine and Ottoman

buildings and museums. The most importantof them all is Topkap Palace, which was theresidence of the Ottoman sultans for 400

years: The Topkap Palace was built on theprime site of the historical peninsula of stanbulwith commanding views of the Sea of Marmara

as well as the stanbul Strait. The architectureof Topkap Palace was not similar to that of

Topkap Palace


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European palaces. The Ottoman sultans paidgreat attention to building grandiose religiousbuildings, while they kept the architecture of

their own residences quite plain, just enough tomeet their needs. This was probably due to theinfluence of Islamic thought.

Topkap Palace was the centre of imperialadministration as well as the residence of the

sultan and his wives. The spectacular ceremoniesin which the sultan and all the high officers of theOttoman state took part with all their regalia duringimportant festivities, and the audience ceremoniesgranted to an ambassador, as well as execution ofthe death penalty of any high state officer, all took

place in this palace. It was therefore a place thatwitnessed almost all of the most important eventsin the history of Ottoman Empire.


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Topkap Palace, the first place to visit on arrivalin stanbul, is actually not a single building but

a complex of individual buildings set out on alarge garden. Its history cannot be restricted to asingle period. While its construction was startedon the orders of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror,he died before its completion. The initial buildingwas completed in 1478 during the reign of Sultan

Bayezid II, and over the next 400 years the palacewas enlarged by adding new buildings accordingto the needs of the period as a residence andadministrative centre. Towards the mid-19thcentury the sultans preferred the new palacesalong the stanbul Strait such as Dolmabahe,Beylerbeyi, and raan; however, Topkap wasnever abandoned as it also housed the Chamberof Sacred Relics, which was regularly maintainedand repaired. Also, many state officials continuedto live in the palace.

Topkap Palace could be reached by walkingthrough the square between Ayasofya and SultanAhmet Mosque. Before gaining entry to the

Gate of Salutation


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palace grounds, the visitor is welcomed by theFountain of Sultan Ahmet III.The importance

given to water by the Turks has always been quitespecial. Satisfying the thirst of a living creature isconsidered as one of the best deeds a humanbeing can commit. In accordance with that beliefyou will find fountains in unexpected placesthroughout Anatolia. Fountains have also been

seen as symbols of cleanliness. The Seljuk andOttoman states therefore built and decoratedmonumental fountains wherever they gainedcontrol or established a new settlement. As wehave mentioned above, one of the shortcomingsof the geographical location of stanbul was its

inadequate water resources in the vicinity. Unlikethe Byzantines, who had built cisterns to collectwater, the Ottomans opted to bring running waterto fountains, and they built monumental fountains.This was the consequence of the belief thatrunning water was cleaner than still water. The

most monumental fountains of the Ottomans asyou may have guessed already were built instanbul. In the old days there were more than10,000 fountains in the city, and while many ofthem no longer exist, the most spectacular havesurvived. Built in 1728, the Fountain of Sultan

Ahmet III is probably the finest example in stanbuland indeed in the whole territory of the empire.On the walls of the fountain are poems andeulogies inscribed in the Ottoman Turkish.

As you pass this bedazzling fountain you willsee in front of you a monumental portal: this istheBab- Hmayun(The Imperial Gate), whichwas the main entrance to the palace during the

Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III


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Ottoman Period and remains so today. The gate

was built during the reign of Sultan Mehmet theConqueror, and the apartment on the top floor ofthe gatehouse is the Beytlmal (the property of theIslamic state) offices which take in the belongingsof the palace officials who died without an heirfor safekeeping before transferring them to the

Imperial Treasury.After entering through the Bab- Hmayun, thefirst courtyard that welcomes you is the AlayMeydan (Parade Ground) of the JanissaryTroops. During the Ottoman Period most partsof the Topkap Palace was forbidden to ordinarypeople. However, on certain days the firstcourtyard was open to the public, when peoplecould gain access to officials to pursue theirbusiness and put forward complaints. The tree-lined avenue leading towards the Bab-s Selam(Gate of Salutation) was the road used whenOttoman sultans left palace for war, when foreignembassies were welcomed and when baksheeshwas distributed during a sultans enthronementceremony. So the road was the first witness ofmany important events in Ottoman history.

In the first courtyard there are other Byzantineand Ottoman buildings. The Aya rini (HagiaIrene) Church was one of the first Byzantine

Harem, Topkap Palace


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Aya rini

churches built during the reign of Constantine,

and it was burnt down during the Nika Revoltin 532. The emperor rebuilt the church just likeAyasofya. Because of its architectural perfectionthe Aya rini has outstanding acoustic features;not surprisingly, it is a preferred location forconcerts. If you visit the city during the stanbul

Music Festival you can enjoy an audio feast in thathistorical building. It is closed at other times andcan only be visited with special permission.

Behind the Aya rini Church is another importantbuilding that has survived to the present day:theDarphane-i Amire (Imperial Mint). MintingOttoman coins and then the coins of the TurkishRepublic continued here until 1967. The buildinghas workshops for casting, rolling, blanking and

die-stamping, as well as repairing and mouldpreparation units. There were also workshopsused for the production of precious items andjewellery.


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Aya rini

The road leads from Bab- Hmayun toanother gate which, on both sides, has towers

resembling a medieval castle. This is the Bab-sSelam Kaps (Gate of Salutation) connecting twocourtyards. The gate is opened to the secondcourtyard where you cannot fail to notice theticket offices and x-ray security devices mountedon high platforms. These were actually designed

to provide vantage points for high state officialsand military officers who took part in the Divan(Imperial Council) meetings.

The second courtyard is named the DivanMeydan (Courtyard of the Imperial Council).Ulufe, the quarterly wages of the soldiers ofOttoman military, was distributed from thissquare. The audiences of the embassies

were also held in this courtyard. As in the firstcourtyard, here a road (the Viziers Road) leadsto the Divan- Hmayun (Chamber of ImperialCouncil) and the Bab-s Saade (Gate of Felicity).

To the right of the courtyard is the first building

opened to visitors, the Saray Mutfaklar (PalaceKitchens), which has high chimneys. Thekitchens were originally built in the 15th century,


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and repaired and renovated by Mimar Sinanaccording to the needs of the period. The kitchens

were used to prepare regular daily meals for thehousehold, and foods for occasional feasts wereprepared by a large group of servants. Thesultans dishes were prepared in a specialdepartment known as sultans kitchenby the chief cook. Today the

kitchens function as amuseum exhibiting rareChinese and Japaneseporcelain given as gifts tothe Ottomans, as well as thecopperware, porcelain and

ceramic kitchenware of theOttoman palace kitchens.

As we have already noted,the Topkap Palace complexwas not completed in asingle period but wasextended by addingindividual buildings as theneed arose. On the left ofthe courtyard across thekitchens standsDivan-Hmayun(Chamber of theImperial Council), built duringthe reign of Sultan Sleyman theMagnificent. The term Divan (Council) referredto the meetings where the most important stateaffairs were discussed. Such meetings would dealwith a wide range of problems, from individuals

requests to state appointments. The two buildingsat either end of this part are the Divan- HmayunKalemi (Secretariat of the Imperial Council) andDefterhane (The Office Keeping the Records ofImperial Edicts).

Imperial Council meetings were chaired by thesultans until the reign of Sultan Mehmet the


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Conqueror; henceforth the Grand Vizier took upthat duty. The reason cited for this change was

that the matters which could not be discussedopenly and plainly in the presence of sultan couldbe more easily handled in the new manner. On oneof the walls of Kubbealt (Under the Dome, that is,another name of the Chamber of Imperial Council)there is a gilded iron grill called theKafes-i

Mebbek. It is the window of a private chamberfrom where the sultan could discreetly listen to theproceedings of the Council. Council meetings wereheld there until the 18th century when the GrandViziers Office moved to the Bab- Ali (SublimePorte). The tower with a spire next to the Chambers

is the Adalet Kasr(Tower of Justice). The reasonwhy it is higher than the rest of the buildings canbe explained by the fact that the Ottomans valuedjustice as a virtue higher than any other; and it wasalso a symbolic expression of the sultans vigilanceagainst injustice.

The next building attached to the Divan- Hmayunis the Hazine Blm(Imperial Treasury) wherethe states treasures were kept. Naturally it was themost closely guarded section of the palace and itwas used to store the taxes collected, and it couldonly be opened by the Grand Vizier who kept theimperial seal. At present it is used as the armoury,where the arms of Ottoman sultans are displayed.

While the exterior of the various Topkap Palacebuildings are quite plain, the internal decorationis elaborate. The most beautiful can be found intheHarem Dairesi(Private Apartments of theSultan), one of the most interesting part of TopkapPalace (to visit the Harem one must purchase aticket). This was the most secret and forbiddenarea of the palace where only the sultan, his familymembers, and servants of the Harem department

could enter. It gave rise to many legends as therewas very little information available about it. Most


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of the prominent painters of Europe depictedthe Harem as they imagined it. The secrecy and

forbidding entry to any strangers lasted until thereign of Sultan Selim III, when for the first timeforeign visitors wives were allowed in. In line withthe piecemeal development of Ottoman palacearchitecture, several rooms were added to theHarem, where Harem officials performed their

duties and concubines provided their services.Some of the chambers are named after thesultan who commissioned them. For example,the Chamber of Sultan Murat III was built byMimar Sinan on the sultans command. There areabout 300 rooms in the Harem. There are also

nine bathhouses, two mosques and a hospital.Some of the rooms were assigned to the sultansmale children, concubines, Harem Agas, thatis, the eunuchs, and other servants. The mostbeautiful rooms were devoted to the mothers ofthe sultans, namely Valide Sultan who was the

highest ranking person in the Harem. The tiledecorations of the chambers of the sultans werealso exquisite.

One of the most important sections of TopkapPalace is the Bab-s Saade(Gate of Felicity)that serves as the passage from the second

courtyard to the third courtyard,and because of this it was the

most important gate of thepalace. During holy day

festivities the sultanseated in front of

this gate and theceremonies andprocessionsmarking theevent took placeon the courtyard

in front of thisgate.


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Passing through the gate the first buildingacross the courtyard is the Arz Odas(Audience

Chamber), where Ottoman Sultans met foreignembassies. Behind that building stood theEnderun Ktphanesi (Library of ImperialCollege) and the Aalar Camii(Aghas Mosque).This courtyard is the most visited part of theTopkap Palace complex, largely because of the

permanent exhibitions in the rooms around thecourtyard. Artefacts from the Treasury of TopkapPalace can be seen here. The artefacts displayedin Topkap Palace Museum are invaluable owingto their both material and sentimental values;moreover, they were deemed important enough

to become the topic of Hollywood movies. Allthe riches of the Ottoman Empire, which wasone of the most important and richest empiresof the world for 600 years, were kept at theTopkap Palace. Among the grandeur of thoseyears what has come down to us in the present

day are the gifts of rulers of other states, objectsdart decorated with priceless gemstones, thepersonal weapons and armour of the sultans,and their ceremonial garments.

The most important and holiest of all exhibition

halls of the Topkap Palace is the MukaddesEmanetler Dairesi(Chamber of Sacred Relics),which were set in the former Has Oda (SultansPrivate Chambers) and audience chamber aswell as other ancillary chambers. The SacredRelics considered holy and highly significantby all Muslims are exhibited here. Among themare the relics of the ProphetMohammed; silver and goldinlaid keys of the door of theKaaba; artefacts used by ProphetsMoses, Abraham and Joseph, andthe arms and armour of the firstfour caliphs of Islam. Itwascustomary for the Ottoman


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Sofa Mosque, Topkap Palace

sultans to send valuable gifts to Mecca andMedina, the holy cities of Islam, during the hajjperiod. The caravans bearing those valuable giftswere ceremonially sent off from this spot.

The last place to visit at Topkap is the area whichwas the terrace of the palace until the beginningof 17th century when new pavilions were builtthere. It is known as the Fourth Courtyard or Sofa-iHmayun (Imperial Sofa). The most importantbuildings here are the two pavilions of the TopkapPalace, the pavilion of Revan (Yerevan) and ofBadat (Baghdad), built to commemorate Sultan

Murat IVs conquest of Yerevan in 1636, andBaghdad in 1639.

Note: The Museum can be visited between09.00 and 17.00 every day except Tuesdays.Some sections of the museum may be closed

temporarily for repairs and maintenance. For up-to-date information about daily tours and closuresplease visit the website: www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr.


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Witnesses to History: Archaeological Museumsof stanbul

The Royal Walls do not only surround TopkapPalace. Within the Royal Walls are ArchaeologicalMuseums of stanbul, which consist of theArchaeological Museum, Museum of AncientOrient, and the inili Kk (Tiled Kiosk) Museum,all of which are among the worlds famous

museums.

At the entrance of the Archaeological Museums thefirst building on the left is the Museum of AncientOrient. This museum houses rare artefactscollected from the Ottoman territory before the First

World War, from lands such as Egypt, Syria andPalestine, as well as Anatolian finds.

The most important item held in the museum is

the Kadesh Peace Treaty, which is known to bethe oldest recorded treaty in the world. Also thereare almost 75,000 cuneiform tablets, making themuseum an important resource for this type ofartefact.

The Archaeological Museum forms the mainbody of the Archaeological Museums of stanbuland exhibits the most well-known items such as

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the Sarcophagus of Alexander the Great, andSarcophagus of Crying Women, as well as

numerous artefacts from successive Anatoliancivilisations. Recently a new ancillary buildinghas been added to the complex so the exhibitioncapacity has greatly increased, and two storeysof the old building built at the end of the 19thcentury were devoted to the exhibition of unique

artefacts such as statues, sarcophagi and coinsfrom antiquity to the Byzantine Period. The four

storeys of the six-storey ancillary building areopen to visitors. The ground floor is designedto introduce children to history and stimulatetheir interest in the subject. The first floor isdedicated to the history of stanbul. The second

floor is dedicated to the Trojan War, and displaysartefacts from excavations at Troy as well asother settlements in Anatolia: this exhibition iscalled Anatolia through Antiquity and Troy. Theupper floor is dedicated to exhibiting artefactsfrom lands such as Syria and Palestine, formerly

part of the Ottoman Empire.

The museum opposite the Archaeology Museumis the inili Kk Museum. This building is oneof the oldest examples of civilian architecturein stanbul, and was built in 1472. Its name isderived from the tile mosaics on its facade.And as its name suggests, it exhibits tiles andceramic artefacts from the Seljuk and Ottomanperiods.


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Gardens of Topkap Palace:

Glhane Park

The Sur-i Sultani within the Royal Walls includesnot only the buildings that have stood witnessto important episodes in world history, but also

beautiful landscaped gardens. The first of thosegardens is Glhane(Rosehouse) Park. Today,the tulip is a flower mainly associated with othercountries. Perhaps in your mind too tulips areidentified with other countries. However, youshould know that the first tulip bulbs were sent

abroad from stanbul in the Ottoman Period.The tulip has even lent its name to the mostcontroversial era of Ottoman history. If you visitstanbul in season, you will find tulips in bloomin Glhane Park a wonderful haven for thosetrying to escape from summer heat, a placewhere you can enjoy sea breezes under thecool shade of centuries-old trees. The park alsohas a panoramic view of the Sea of Marmara,

Gotlar Column, Glhane Park


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the Golden Horn and the stanbul Strait, as it issituated on the tip of the historical peninsula.

The park is also associated with the Tanzimat(reorganisation of the state) reforms since theRescript of Glhane was proclaimed here. TheTanzimat Museum, which exhibits documents andphotographs relating to that important period ofthe Ottoman Empire, is situated in Glhane Park.

The Has Ahrlar (Royal Stables) is a part ofGlhane Park, and at present they house theIslamic Science and Technology Museum. Themuseum exhibits replicas, built according towritten records, of various devices and toolsinvented and developed by Islamic scientistsbetween the 8th and 16th centuries. Among themare the world map designed by 70 geographersand astronomers in a thirty-year period in 9thcentury, and the oldest clock of the world thatworks in accordance with the time system which isstill in use. We recommend a visit to the museumfor an insight into the contribution of scientistsfrom the Islamic world to the world history ofscience.


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From Mese to Divanyolu: Squaresand Monuments of stanbul

stanbul was laid out along two main roads in theByzantine Period. One of them was Kardowhich

ran between Golden Horn and the harboursalong the shores of Sea of Marmara. The otherwas Mese, connecting the seven squares ofByzantium. Kardo was the commercial route as itconnected the harbours, while Mese had a moreimportant function. As Byzantium was regarded

as the centre of the world, all roads leading todifferent parts of the world were assumed to startfrom stanbul, and their first metres were on theMese. Emperors leaving for a war or returningvictorious passed under the Altnkap (GoldenGate Porte Aurea), which was on the city walls

where Mese passed through at a place nearpresent-day Yedikule.

On this thoroughfare various Byzantine emperorsbuilt squares bearing their names, and decoratedthem with monuments. Although these squares,

located at equidistance, couldnt survive to thepresent day, some of the monuments are stillextant.

Yedikule


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This important road of the Byzantine Periodwas not neglected during the Ottoman Period,and continued to be used. It only changedits identity, together with the rest of the town,and was renamed as Divanyolu which literallymeans the road to the court. The road took thisname because the viziers attending to the Divan(Imperial Court) sessions at Topkap Palaceused that road on leaving the palace meetings.Despite the name changed its fate remained thesame: rebels used the route to storm the palace,and many were executed along it. In short, theroad has witnessed the history of stanbul.

The first square along the road was theAgusteion Square, today known as SultanahmetSquare. During the Roman Period, and itscontinuation, the Byzantine Period, the squaresor forums were surrounded by various buildings.

Augusteion Square was surrounded by theGreat Palace, the Hippodrome and Ayasofya,the most important monuments of the past tohave survived to our day. The Million Stonewasregarded as the starting point of all destinationswhen stanbul was considered to be the centre of

the world. Although it is an unassuming brokencolumn near the Yerebatan Cistern that fails toattract the attention of passersby at present,it was the starting point of all roads in theByzantine Period.

The road called Mese in Byzantine Period andDivanyolu in Ottoman Period was approximatelyon the same route with todays tram line. Byfollowing the tram line the other squares canbe reached. As this route played an interestingrole in the Ottoman Period, to follow its course

enables visitors to see some important Ottomanbuildings. The first building is the Firuz AghaMosque, which is located to the left of the road.


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This is one of the oldest mosques in stanbul,and was completed in 1491. Contrary to othermosques with single minarets, its minaret is onthe left-hand side.

A bit further on to your right is the Kzlaraas

Mehmet Agha Madrasah. When emberlitaappears on your sight, you are in danger offocusing on it and missing other importantbuildings, so beware. First of these is the Tombof Sultan Mahmut IIthat was built in 1840. Inthe tomb are the graves of Sultans Mahmut II,

Abdlaziz and Abdlhamit II, who ruled duringthe last period of the Ottoman Empire.

The second square after the Augusteion Squareis the Forum of Constantine, and at presentthe emberlita(Column of Constantine or

Burnt Column) stands as a silent reminder. Inthe Byzantine Period, the Roman tradition of


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erecting columns for the emperors continued.The Forum of Constantine was built by EmperorConstantine who made Byzantium the capital ofthe empire, and it was decorated with statuesand monuments. The bronze statues weremelted down during the Latin occupation. On top

of the emberlita, a statue of Constantine usedto stand. However it fell down in a devastatingstorm, and killed many passersby. The porphyrystones making up the shaft of the column weregradually cracked, and to prevent disintegrationthe column was secured by putting iron rings

around it at regular intervals, and gradually itsname came to be known as emberlita (theringed stone). Rumours have it that there was achapel under the emberlita and parts of thecross used for crucifixion of Christ were buriedthere. According to the rumour the column was

built there to protect the entrance to the chapel.Many people tried to dig tunnels to find the holycross, but none of them was successful.


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At the Forum of Theodosius(Beyazt Square)the Mese road divided into two branches. One ofthe branches continued towards todays Aksaray,and led to Yedikule and Altnkap, and the otherbranch to the present-day Edirnekap. If youleave the tram line and follow the road towardsEdirnekap you will find two more forums.The first is the Forum of Philadelphionat

ehzadeba, though there are no remains fromthis forum today.

The next forum is the Forum of Amasterianon,which was situated on the site of present-dayskenderpaa Square in Fatih District wherethe Column of Marcian known in Turkish as the

Kzta (Maiden Stone) still stands.TheTurkish name is associated with thereliefs on its base which led to manytales about the column. One of themis about a maiden who was carrying

a stone block for the construction ofAyasofya when she was deceived bya genie to shift the stone there. When

she realised her mistake she was unableto move it. Another romour refers to themagical nature of the column which bendsforwards to reveal the maidens who arenot virgins. In reality the column waserected in 455 AD for Emperor Marcian,and the reliefs were actually depictions ofNike, the goddess of victory. The columnmost probably related one of the victoriesof the emperor or wished him successin a battle. The bronze statue of Marcianwas looted and taken back to Europein 13th century, as happened to many

monuments in stanbul.


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From Eminn to Sleymaniye From Sleymaniye to Eminn

The most important building in Sirkeci is theSirkeci Gar Binas (Sirkeci Train Station). Thebuilding was designed by foreign architects,as became the fashion in the later periodsof Ottoman rule. It has been stanbuls gateto Europe, and the arrival place of Europeanvisitors who were attracted by the mythicalcapital of Ottomans and the legendary East fordecades.

The history of the building dates back to 1890.During the construction period a particularimportance was attached to the harmony ofthis building with the stanbuls architecturalcharacter. stanbul, which connects the East andthe West, also created connections betweenEuropean architecture and Oriental styles.There is a small museum in the Terminal whereartefacts related to the Ottoman railways and thehistory of the Terminal are on permanent display.

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The first building that strikes visitors to Eminnis theYeni Cami(New Mosque), which hasalways a flock of pigeons on the stairs andcourtyard. Its construction commenced in 1597,

but was completed in 1663. With the 66-yearconstruction period the mosque has a distinctiveplace in the Ottoman history. The tiles andmother-of-pearl inlaidmahfil(the raised platformfor the sultan) are worth close inspection. Themosque is a part of a complex and another

largest building in this complex is Msr ars(Spice Bazaar or Egyptian Bazaar), one of theoldest and most important covered markets ofstanbul. Goods from Egypt used to be sold here.At present, it sells spices and other gift items tovisitors who drop by to shop while soaking up

the atmosphere. One of the most visited spotsof stanbul, it is consequently still a meeting


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Spice Bazaar

point of diverse cultures, as it has been the casethroughout its history.

Being one the most beautiful mosques of stanbul,the Rstem Pasha Mosquewas designed andbuilt by Mimar Sinan, the imperial architect. Itis situated off the main road along the GoldenHorn, and to reach it you have to pass throughthe narrow side streets. It was built on a raisedplatform so it commands the silhouette of stanbul.It was commissioned by Rstem Pasha, the GrandVizier and son-in-law of Sultan Sleyman theMagnificent. Rstem Pasha had a reputation formeanness during his lifetime, but towards the endof his life he spent exorbitant amounts of moneyon the construction of this mosque and decoratedit with the most exquisite znik tiles. Its interior is sorich that it can be considered a museum of tiles.


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The next spot is easy to visit, as the minarets ofSleymaniye Mosque can be seen everywhere.

After climbing a steep hill, you can arrive at thewalls surrounding the mosque. If you just followthe walls you will shortly arrive at one of thecourtyard gates.

The whole district is named after the mosque.

Designed and built between 1550 and 1557 byMimar Sinan, the master architect of the OttomanPeriod, the Sleymaniye Mosque and Complexwas devoted to Sultan Sleyman the Magnificent,who was also known as the Lawgiver. Themosque indeed befitted the magnificence of

Sultan Sleyman, and it was built on one of theseven hills of stanbul. The Mosque is the mostmonumental masterpiece built by Mimar Sinanin stanbul. Its monumental nature was to glorifythe memory of Sultan Sleyman the Magnificent.It was also one of the works that ranked himamong the greatest architects of the city. MimarSinan referred to Sleymaniye as the workof my craftsmanship and despite its gloriousdimensions, it has fairly simple characteristics.Some consider that it was due to the Sultansmodesty, while others argue that Mimar Sinandesigned it so that the architectural features ofthe building showed themselves without beingclouded by decorative elements. Apart froma tile-clad Mihrab, the whole internal space israther plain.

The interesting aspects of the mosque requiresome exploration. For example, if you wonder


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how the mosque has withstood frequent andpowerful earthquakes or why no soot hasaccumulated under its domes despite the oillamps and candles that have burnt for 450years, or how its wonderful acoustics work, youcan discover the answers here in the hiddenparts of Mimar Sinans genius. The foundationsof the mosque were given a certain amount ofelasticity by placing juniper piles and beamsamong the masonry in order to enable it absorbthe shock waves of earthquakes. To avoid sootaccumulation on the interior surfaces due tohundreds of candles and oil lamps, he found avery creative solution: the design of the mosquehas created a ventilating current which broughtall the soot to a special chamber situated overthe entrance portal. The soot collected herewas used to produce ink used in calligraphyemployed in firmans, the imperial edicts. Yetanother stroke of genius was employed in thecentral dome of the mosque. He placed 255 potsinto the fabric of the dome, and by doing so heimproved the acoustics of the building and itsthermal insulation. It was built as a multi-minaretmosque. If a mosque has more than one minaret,it means that it was built either by a sultan or bysome member of his royal household.

The other buildings of the complex extend overa large area, and each building is rich andbeautiful in its own way. The domed ceiling ofthe tomb of Sleyman the Magnificent was inlaidwith precious stones, and gives the impressionthat you are looking at the stars on a dark night.


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Its walls are clad with splendid znik tiles. Anothertomb in the courtyard belongs to Hrrem Sultan,

the wife of Sultan Sleyman. The complexhad four madrasahs, and each was devotedto a different level of education. Its darifa(hospital) was built like a modern traininghospital. The darifa had two departments,one of which was devoted to patients, and theother was for education. The plain tomb of MimarSinan was placed next to the complex as anindependent building. Despite creating so manyglorious buildings, this master of architectureopted to build a very plain tomb for himself, afact that can only be explained by his modesty.

The Botanical Garden of stanbul Universityis situated behind the Sleymaniye Mosqueand office of stanbuls mufti. A secret heaven,it has a rich collection of plants from all over theworld. A visit is highly recommended; but priorpermission is required.

Let us continue on our route. When you reachDirekleraras, which used to be the publicentertainment centre during the Ottoman Period,on the ehzadeba Street, turn right and walkalong the road. You first arrive at the Damatbrahim Pasha Complex, which was built in1720. All the buildings of this complex are setaround a courtyard. The ehzade Mosquegave its name to the road, and is an importantmilestone in the development of Mimar Sinansarchitectural mastery. He himself referred themosque as his work of apprenticeship, and itis widely believed that he built his masterpiecesrelying on the experiences he gathered duringthe design and construction of this mosque. Themosque was built for the memory of ehzadeMehmet, a beloved son of Sultan Sleyman,who sadly died when he was just 22 years old.


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The tombs in the courtyard with their spectaculartiles are also worth a visit. However, like many

other tombs in stanbul, they can only be visitedon certain dates or with special permission.

If you proceed along the same road you willreach the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Complex,(Complex of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror), one

of the first religious complexes built in stanbul.The complex is also an earlier example ofselatinmosques (imperial mosques of Ottoman sultansor their family members). A complex has themosque as its central feature, and consists ofa madrasah (religious college), imaret (public

kitchens), and darifa (hospital) as wellas other buildings for charitable purposes,education, and health. The Fatih Complexused to have the first universities of stanbul,the Mediterranean Madrasah and Black SeaMadrasah. Following the demise of Byzantium,

Fatih underwent large-scale reconstructionand embellishment activities, and building thiscomplex was part of that effort. It was also builton one of the seven hills of stanbul, which wasa very significant place during the ByzantinePeriod. On the same hill the Havariyun Church

(Church of the Holy Apostles) used to stand,which contained the sacred cemetery of theByzantine emperors. The mosque and other


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buildings were built over the ruins of the churchand sustained earthquake damage several

times in its long history. They have neverthelesssurvived into our own day after successiverepairs. One of the most splendid parts ofthe complex is the tomb where the internaldecorations contain inlaid silver and goldpatterning.

However, if you prefer not to proceed towardsthe Fatih Complex and turn right at the ehzadeMosque, the road will take you toBozdoan SuKemeri (Valens Aqueduct), which served stanbulfor many years by bringing water into the city

from distant sources. The aqueduct was repairedseveral times during the Byzantine Period aswell as Ottoman Period and extended to newwater sources to ensure a safe supply of water tostanbul from several kilometres away.

If you continue the road you will reach VefaDistrict, which is famous for itsboza(a thick maltdrink made of fermented millet). The historic VefaBozacs (boza producer and seller) is close tothe Valens Aqueduct and Vefa Lyce. It is thepreferred refreshing drink of the winter months,

though even a summer visit is no excuse not totaste the famous drink.

Bozdoan Aqueduct


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Another significant building on the same route isthe Church of Christ Pantokrator, todays ZeyrekMosque. This monumental building was set on topof a hill. It has the largest floor area after Ayasofyafor a surviving historical building in stanbul. In thisdistrict you can find examples of the late ByzantinePeriod. The church is also dated to the end ofByzantine Period. However it was not designed

and built in a single period. It consisted of severalbuildings commissioned by different Byzantineemperors and empresses.

If you visit Vefa on the first day of a calendarmonth, take a key with you and visit Meryem AnaAyazmas (Virgin Mary Holy Spring). The keys areimportant if you make a wish at the holy spring.The belief is that if you manage to keep the keyfor a month afterwards, your wish will definitely berealised in near future.

The route then leads you to the shores of theGolden Horn. Near the Atatrk Bridge spanningthe Golden Horn turn right and walk alongside theshore to reach back to the Egyptian Bazaar whereyou can rest and recuperate with a nice meal atone of the restaurants serving fine food from thefour corners of Turkey.


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Intersection Point of Religions:

Balat and Fener along the GoldenHorn

The estuary, Haliin Turkish, was called as theGolden Horn by the Byzantines. According tolegend it was formed by the thrust of Ios horns

that was transformed into a heifer by Zeus.Another legend relates that the plentifulpalamutfish (Atlantic bonito) makes the water shimmerwith their reflective skin. Actually the sunriseand sunset lend its golden reflections to the stillwaters.

The Golden Horn was closely associated withthe Tulip Era, the most controversial period ofOttoman history. During this period rich royalyachts plied the waters, splendid kiosks andmansion houses were built along the shores of

the Golden Horn, and all the gardens displayedthe most colourful examples of glorious tulips,which lent their name to the period. It is a pitythat none of those kiosks or tulip gardenssurvived to the present day. However, we willvisit three important buildings, each of them

belonging to a different religious community andeach was built during the Ottoman and Byzantineperiods, over the hills with a commanding view ofthe Golden Horn.


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At present two districts of stanbul, Balatand Fener, are closely associated with theGolden Horn. Sultan Mehmet the Conquerorgranted privileges to the Christian and Jewishcommunities living in the city to perform theirrituals free of intervention. Those privileges areconsidered to be fine examples of Ottomantolerance, and helped to keep the Christiancommunity in the city. The Sephardic Jews whowere expelled from Spain were accepted with

open arms by the Ottomans and settled in thesame part of the city. So Balat and Fener becamea centre for the religious minorities of stanbul.There, mosques, churches and synagogues canbe seen side by side as if a living proof of thefraternity of religions.

The Synagogues of Balat: Balat, the districtmostly populated by Jewish in the OttomanPeriod was the scene of many important Jewishbuildings, and some of them are still fulfillingtheir religious functions. The synagogues of the

Sephardic Jewish community survived intactuntil 1940s when a great part of the community


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opted to resettle in Israel. However, there is still athriving Jewish community living in the area. Twoof their synagogues are on the Vodina Street,and the first one to visit is ana Synagogue. TheAhrida Synagogueis on the same road thoughit was not built by Jews expelled from Spainbut by those who emigrated from Macedonia.The shape of the synagogue resembles a ship,as a reference to the wandering Jew. The thirdsynagogue is theYanbol Synagoguewhich issituated on the Driye Street, a street crossingthe main road. It was built by the Jews whoemigrated from Bulgaria. Along the shores ofHali is the Or-Ahayim (Light of Life) Hospitalwhich has attractive architectural features andwas built as a Jewish hospital in 1896.

Fener Orthodox Patriarchate


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Museums of Hali

After visiting the churches, synagogues andmosques of Hali (Golden Horn), you may wishto visit the museums and cultural centres on theopposite shores. Here is a short list to choosefrom:

Miniatrk:Miniatrk is an open-air exhibition onthe shores of the Hali where 1:25 scale modelsof the most important buildings from antiquity tothe Ottoman Period from across Turkey are ondisplay.

Rahmi KoMuseum:The

Rahmi KoMuseum is thefirst and onlyindustrial museumof Turkey. It exhibitssubmarines, ships,airoplanes and

thousands of other industrial products. Withits world renowned classic car section whichincludes private collections, it is among the mustsee museums in stanbul.

Santral stanbul: Santral stanbul is quite closeto Miniatrk on the shores of Hali. It is a culturalcentre created by renovating a thermal powerstation built originally in 1911 and which providedpower to stanbul until 1952. Even the underwatercables laid to supply power to the Anatolianside of the city were started from there. Todayit houses a modern art museum, a museumdevoted to power generation and distribution,workshops, and concert venues as well as cafsand restaurants.


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The Holiest Grounds of stanbul:

Eyp

Eyp is the place just beyond the land wallsalong the shores of the Hali, and houses the

mosques, tombs and cemeteries of somesignificant personage of the Islamic religion. Theholy character of Eyp was established hundredsof years ago. During the Byzantine Period therewere monastery churches on the grounds, noneof which has survived. One of the reasons they

disappeared lies in the fact that those areas outof the city walls were devastated during eachsiege the city was subjected to and militarybattles that devastated any building in the vicinity.After the Ottoman conquest of stanbul, Eypwas rebuilt and it eventually took on its present

aspect.

If you proceed from the land walls towards Eypthe first place to visit is Defterdar MahmutEfendi Mosque, which is situated on DefterdarStreet. The main buildings of all religions bear

the symbols of that religion. Just as a churchhas a cross on top of the bell tower, so, in the


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same manner, a minaret is normally topped witha crescent moon representing Islam. However,over the minaret of this mosque, a pen and aninkpot were placed to give the message thatliteracy is the best way of enlightenment andmodernisation. The original inkpot and pen weredestroyed in successive earthquakes; however,recently a new set has been installed.

If you continue on the Defterdar Street, alongthe shores of the Golden Horn you will comeacross a red building. This is the Feshane(FezFactory), founded in 1835 to meet the increaseddemand for the fez, a type of red hat, as wellas the production of uniforms for the OttomanImperial Army. It is one of the oldest factoriesin Turkey. After a long service life, Feshane nowserves as an exhibition and conference hall andas an entertainment center during the festivitiesof Ramadan. From the pier of Feshane you cantake boat trips aboard a replica of royal boatsthat were once used by Ottoman sultans to crossthe stanbul Strait.

Across Feshane, and next to the Municipality

Building, stands the first museum of Eyp, theNezih Eldem City Museum. The building wasactually the Military Cadet School, commissionedin 1884. The museum exhibits documents relatedto the history of Eyp. Just behind the museumis the Cezeri Kasm Mosque. Curiously, another

mosque in a different part of the city, situatedacross the Caalolu Hammam (public bath) inDivanyolu, has the same name.

Zal Mahmut Pasha Complexis also on thesame route and it was designed by Mimar Sinan.

There you can visit the handcrafts workshopsmanufacturing the traditional wooden toysidentified with Eyp.


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Eyp Toymakers: Children who were startingprimary school or who were to be circumcised

were brought to visit Eyp, and this custom stillcontinues. It is believed that visiting this holyplace would make them more successful in life,and that they would not face any hardship. Oneof the unintended consequences of the childrensvisits was the creation of a toy-making industry

in Eyp as early as the 17th century. Even themale heirs of the Ottoman Empire played withthese toys, and today the same wooden toys aremanufactured with traditional techniques, andare sold locally. As a memento of your visit toEyp, why not buy one? Who knows, maybe themagic will work for you!

The district is named after Eyp Sultan, andthe Mosque and Tomb of Eyp Sultanareconsidered as the holiest place in stanbul.Eyp Ensari was a companion of the ProphetMohammed, died during the siege of stanbulby Arabs in 674-678, and was buried here.Following the conquest of stanbul, SultanMehmet the Conqueror found the grave of EypEnsari, and built a tomb over it, then a mosqueand religious complex nearby. The complex wasthe first to be built in stanbul.

The district of Eyp gradually took shape aroundthe complex commissioned by Sultan Mehmetthe Conqueror. Many sultans after Mehmet builtreligious buildings in Eyp and continued todevelop it, so today there are many buildings inclose proximity that reflect the different periodsof Ottoman architecture. As Eyp came to beconsidered a holy place, many from the higherechelons of Ottoman society as well as ordinarypeople chose Eyp as their everlasting place ofrest. And today the cemeteries of Eyp containvarious styles of funeral architecture, includingintricately carved headstones.


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At some distance from the Eyp Cemetery, upon the hill is the Pierre Loti Caf, which can be

reached by road or by cable car departing fromthe shore. It is famous for the best panoramicview of the Golden Horn and Eyp.

Pierre Loti (Louis Marie Julien Viaud) was arenowned French writer and traveller wholived between 1850 and 1923, and he was soimpressed with stanbul that he settled there.The caf was his favourite haunt. Gazing at thesilhouette of stanbul he must have dreamed

about his imaginary love, Aziyade, and called hername out loud to the other shore of the GoldenHorn. As the time went by, the caf took thename of Pierre Loti. The best way to end yourpleasure trip to Eyp is with a pot of tea at thePierre Loti Caf where you can take in the view

and also buy some souvenirs.

Pierre Loti Cafe


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The Insurmountable City Walls ofstanbul

The magic and attraction of stanbul led to afierce determination to capture the city. However,until 1453 the city walls of stanbul checked theonslaughts of countless enemies that surroundedthe city. In a sense the thousand-year-long life

of Byzantium was due to its majestic city walls,which were one of the finest examples of MiddleAges military architecture.

The city walls built during the reign ofConstantine, which marked the boundaries

of present-day Sultanahmet and its environs,gradually became too small for a bustling cityand its increasing population. In 415, only 120years after the foundation of the original walls,the Theodosian walls marking the historicalpeninsula were built. These walls, which can

be seen extending from the shores of the Halito the shores of the Sea of Marmara, were built


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by the Emperor Theodosius; however, they were

repaired extensively over the centuries. Theconstruction was sturdiest in the land walls, sincethe threat deemed lesser; the sea walls were notfortified as strongly as the land walls.

Now the city walls from the Hali to the Sea of

Marmara would accompany your sightseeingroute to another part of stanbul which were silentwitnesses to thousand of years and wars.The strongest and most insurmountable parts ofstanbul city walls are the land walls extendingfrom the Sea of Marmara to the Hali. As the Sea

of Marmara provided an important protection,the sea walls were not deemed to be as strongas the land walls. As the land walls would facethe staunchest attacks, they were designed andbuilt to be as strong and enduring as possible.The sightseeing tour along the city walls gives

you a chance to visit some important buildings,including some famous Byzantine ones.


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Our excursion starts at the point where the city

walls meet the Golden Horn. The first place tovisit is Atik Mustafa Pasha Mosque. This was achurch before the conquest, however the nameand history of the old church is disputed. Somebelieve it was the church built for Saints Peterand Mark in 5th century, while others believe

it was the Hagia Thekla Church built in the 9thcentury.

Amid the well-preserved part of the city wallsstands the Tekfur Saray(the Palace of thePorphyrogenitus). It is the only surviving part of

the Palace of Blachernae; therefore, this threestorey palace has an important place in arthistory. Although it was built as early as the 5thcentury, it became the main residence of theByzantine emperors at around the 12th century.During the Ottoman Period it was put to diverse

and curious uses such as glass manufacture andeven as a pen for royal giraffes.

The next Byzantine landmark to visit is theKariye Museum. The name Kariye derives fromChora, which means outside the city walls. The

district was thus known before the land wallswere built. Although it was used for a while as amosque, the magnificent mosaics and frescoeswere not damaged. They were only covered over

with whitewash. They were discovered in mid-20th century and restored to reveal their

original majesty. The church buildingdates back to the 12th century, but

the frescoes and mosaics are fromthe 14th century. They represent

the peak reached by Byzantineart before the European

Renaissance. The frescoes areamong the finest examples of


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Byzantine art to be found anywhere in the world.

They depict stories from the Bible as well as thelife of Virgin Mary and Jesus Christ. Over theentrance door to the naos is the scene depictingTheodoros Metokhites offering the churchto Jesus Christ one of the few non-biblicalscenes. A similar scene can also be found in

Ayasofya.

One of the prominent gates on the land walls isEdirne Kap (Gate of Polyandrion). Next to theEdirne Kap is the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque,one of the finest mosques built by the imperial

architect Mimar Sinan. Mihrimah Sultan was thedaughter of Sultan Sleyman the Magnificentand there are several buildings in various districtsof stanbul devoted to her. As it was build on aterrace it can be seen from quite far away. Inorder to let in a good deal of natural light the

walls of the mosque are pierced by a number ofwindows.

Kariye Museum


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When you pass through Belgrad Gate andapproach the Sea of Marmara you come tothe most famous section of the city walls, theYedikule Hisar. The most splendid of all 55gates on the City Walls during the ByzantinePeriod was the Altn Kap (Golden Gate), thegate where the emperors and armies entered thecity triumphantly after returning from a victoriousmilitary campaign. After the Ottoman conquestSultan Mehmet the Conqueror added a fortressstrengthened with towers here, which came tobe known as the Yedikule Fortress (Fortress with

Seven Towers). The Byzantine name, Golden

Gate, came from the gilding on its faade. TheOttomans added five towers to the existing twotowers, and formed a citadel which was laterused as a storage area, then part of the treasury,and later as a prison. The layout of the fortress

resembles a five-pointed star and its dungeonswhich were used as a prison for high-rankingofficials during the Ottoman Period. It is nowopen to the public, with a permanent exhibitionin the courtyard, including the canon balls and


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other artefacts. The courtyard is also a venue foropen-air concerts during the summer months.If you are not too tired, you may wish to continuealong the shores of the Sea of Marmara toYenikap. The archaeological excavations ofthe Yenikap area unearthed artefacts that shedlight on the 8,000-year of history of stanbul.In particular, the sunken boats of Yenikap andother relics of the ancient port are consideredto be highly important as they shed light on theByzantine and Ottoman periods. The TheodosiusPort of Yenikap was built by Emperor Theodosius

I at the end of the 4th century and remained inuse until the 14th century. Other important findsare the foundation line of the sea walls builtunder the Emperor Constantine. In addition,the ruins of Elefterion, one of the oldest ports ofstanbul built during the Byzantine Period, were

also uncovered there. So if you are keen to learnmore about the Byzantine history you shouldcertainly visit Yenikap.


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The Commercial Harbour of both

the Byzantines and the Ottomans:Galata and Its Environs

From Karaky to Beyolu

Over the years, earthquakes and fires devastatedparts of stanbul, yet each time the city was bornagain out of its ashes as if it were the mythicalPhoenix. Perhaps the most often devastatedand rejuvenated parts of stanbul are Galata andBeyolu.

Galata, or Karaky as it is called today, is in theshape of a peninsula surrounded by the stanbulStrait and the Golden Horn which, throughouthistory, has been the commercial port of stanbul.During the Byzantine and Ottoman periods it

maintained its importance as the most importantharbour of the region, and a centre of commercialactivities. The district is famous for its Tower, andthe Genoese colony that settled there maintainedcommercial links with Europe during the ByzantinePeriod. Later, Iranians, Egyptians, Syrians,

Turks and Levantine traders of European originmarketed their wares from the warehouses there,and distributed them to other parts of stanbul.

As Galata maintained its commercial importanceduring the Ottoman Period, many warehouses

were built in the district. The first embassies tothe Ottoman Empire were settled in the samearea, and it was also an entertainment center withits several drinking dens. At the end of the 19thcentury, the first banks of the Ottoman Empirewere also clustered here, and consequently

Galata became the financial centre and heart ofthe stock exchange. Its importance continueduntil the first years of the 21st century, though with


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Galata Tower


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the relocation of important finance houses toLevent and Maslak districts, Galata finally lost itsfinancial importance.

One of the most interesting aspects of Karakyis that you can see the beauty of historicalpeninsula from a different perspective acrossthe estuary. When you are at Sultanahmet, theother shores may not seem to so interesting.However, once you are at the Karaky, the vistaof the historical peninsula is majestic. Especiallyduring the sunset, the reddish sky contrastingwith the darkening silhouette of Sultanahmet,Ayasofya and Topkap Palace offers the visitors anew horizon where the Ottoman royal mosques,built on top of the hills of stanbul with theircharacteristic domes and minarets, are at theirbest in this most romantic of settings.

Nowadays two bridges, Galata Bridge andAtatrk Bridge, connect the historical peninsulaand Galata. In the past, the Renaissance MasterLeonardo da Vinci prepared designs to build abridge over the Golden Horn. The great artistwrote a letter to Sultan Bayezid II and mentionedhis intentions about the bridge, but most


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probably was never given a chance to put hisintentions into practice.

The Jewish community that settled in variousareas of stanbul and built places of worshipthere had a history exceeding half a millennium.

The Zlfaris Synagogue, situated in PeremliStreet across the Galata Brid

ministry brochure istanbul

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