merchandisng 13
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Subject: MerchandisingSession: 13Content: Range Development process, general Range development and specific range development
Jagriti Mishra, NIFT, Gandhinagar
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Product/Range development• Product/Range development is the process of market
and trend research, merchandising design, and development of the final product.
• Merchandisers or product managers, designers, and their assistants are all involved in the development of a line or collection of the fashion manufacturers’ product.
• Product/Range development is the process of market and trend research, merchandising design, and development of the final product.
• Line development is the creation of a line, also referred to as a collection( a group of garment styles that is presented by apparel companies to their customers for sale and delivery during a specific time period.
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DEFINITIONS• Product range: The total product range that you are developing for
a particular market e.g. Export Product Range.• Style: A distinctive common aspect that appears in all products,
determined by the raw materials, the production techniques or inspiration behind the products e.g. Contemporary, Traditional, Classic.
• Theme/Story/Concept: A subject of trend where ideas are drawn and collated from common inspiration to create a unified ‘look’.
• Storyboard/Concept board: A visual representation of the theme/story/ concept.
• Product group: Groups of products that have the same overall function or are produced from the same material type.
• Collection: Families, groups or sets of products that have common elements of design linking them to each other e.g. decoration, shape, finish.
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Product/Range development
It basically depends on the :• Season selected • Buyer(his own ranges) • Buyer strategy
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The line development must achieve the following:• Understanding: acquire and maintain a thorough
sense of market and target consumer by line development team.
• Conceptualization: be able to quickly and effectively visualize new styling ideas and communicate the concepts.
• Creation: the ability to develop finished garment styles that meet the expectations set forth in conceptualization stage through an efficient design process.
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Research
• Understanding of target markets• Predict market apparel requirements• Responsibility of translating marketing strategies
into salable products.
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• Market research: Merchandisers can determine the characteristics of a market through segmentation studies or by collecting data directly from a company’s target market.
• Fashion trend research: Merchandisers must keep themselves updated on fashion marketplace which can be achieved through reading trade publications, international fashion magazines, using predictive services, etc.
• Color research: By forecasting agencies like Color Council, Promostyl, International Color Authority, etc.
• Fabric and trim research: Valuable forecasting on by fiber organizations like DuPont, Wool mark, Cotton Incorporated
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Line plan• Sets parameters for company’s product line• Chart organized by product categories which shows
the number of styles, fabrics, colors, sizes that are expected to be included in a line
• The line must take into account the following:– The brand’s positioning– Projected sales– Economic conditions– Balance by price ranges– Balance to accommodate climate– Balance for fashion content
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Color Board
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Styling Directions
• Styling concepts which meet the need of the target market
• Primary factors to consider are color, fabric and sillouhette
• Inspiration from arts, music, sports, fashion etc. drives the creative process.
• Styling concepts can be communicated through style boards
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Product development
• Process of creating each individual style within the line
• After the research process is over, silhouettes are developed, fabrics and trims selected, prototypes made and specifications created.
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Fabric selection• Must take into consideration the following factors:• Fiber content, • fabric-construction, • texture and engineered effects, • prints, • color range, • performance characteristics-wear factors, care
requirements, drape, etc.• Versatility• Price and terms• Availability• Minimum order quantities
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Silhouettes
• Transforming garment ideas into final garment sketches
Line sheets• Line sheets are created for each style group in
a line plan • Designers provide the sketches of each style in
the group along with fabric and color swatches
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Prototyping
• After the silhouette has been approved, the next step is to create a prototype or the first sample.
• Try prototype on a fit model• There are two primary methods
to create prototypes:– Draping– Flat patterns
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Following data are critical for a prototype request
• Company name • Season and date• Style code • Product identification• Prototype identification
code• Detailed description of the
garment• Technical drawing • Sample pattern
identification code
• Sample size measurements• Fabric description• Bill of materials• Cutting instructions• Sewing construction details• Labeling instructions• Finishing Instructions• Packaging Instructions• Target Price
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Pre-costing
• Determine estimated cost for each new style• This estimate is called pre-costing• The precost formula must consist of material,
labor, overhead design and distribution, general and administrative costs and mark up
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Specifications
• Preliminary product specifications are made.• Product engineering is the analysis of a style to
determine whether any pattern adjustments or construction changes can reduce the cost of producing the style while still achieving the desired design results.
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Final costing• Final costing or costing for sale based on data
available
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Adoption
• Line to viewed in entirety and evaluated• Company decides which styles will be dropped
from the collection and which should be retained