I n s p I r a t I o n a l w I n e k n o w l e d g e a n d t h e p e o p l e b e h I n d t h e d r I n k

May2009I N T E R N A T I O N A L

Green light for whites in Italy sId 5 The many faces of Sangioveses sId 18

INNEHÅLL >paGe 5 Green light for whites in Italy paGe 10 Red and white from Provènce paGe 18 The many faces of Sangioveses paGe 23 A famous castle in Pouilly - Chateau du Nozet paGe 26 When medical care becomes healt care through wine production paGe 29 Exciting news at the Systembolaget paGe 33 Young and successful paGe 34 Wine and game paGe 38 Our job is to read the signs of the nature paGe 40 California played host to a well attended wine taster in Stockholm paGe 42 Arvid Nordquist cele-brates 125 years

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WELCOME TO FINE WINE MAGAZINE YouR on-lIne maGazIne In a GlaSS of ITS own.

Summer is racing towards us very early this year.Or can it be that the financial downturn is making everything roll that much faster, until we eventually hit rock bottom and begin ascending into a new era of prosperity. Which of course is what we’re all longing for. The crisis has left its mark amongst Sweden’s importers, some of which have been forced to shut up shop. Others have had to cut back on personnel.

We recognize the recurring pattern from previous economical downturns. Nevertheless summer is just around the corner, bringing with it many well earned, lovely, relaxing moments.In this edition you’ll find some interesting reading: from the Wine&Spirits auction, articles from the Loire valley, Chablis and Italy as well as Red and White from Provence. Ecological cultivation in California and a whole lot more. Enjoy

Ove CanemyrChief Editor Fine Wine Magazine

It is permitted to forward Fine Wine Magazine to friends and acquaintances interested in Fine Wines and are over the age of 18 years. Please let us know about anything interesting that you get to know about, people, events etc. We cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material, manuscripts, photos etc. You’re welcome to please quote from Fine Wine Magazine,but always reveal your sources.

edIToRal offIce:Ove Canamyr: Chief Editor , Fine Wine Magazine/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout : Sophie L Slettengren, By Design AB, International Edition Translations: Roger Brett, Broadcasting Arts. Broadart@tele2.se

euRopean wIne landS cReaTe TheIR oRIGIn oRGanIzaTIon

Several classified origin oriented wine districts In Europe have decided to amalgamate and found an mutual interest organization. This is to counter the pressure that the districts get from the direction of Brussels. The organization will become a reality in October, and according to the founders has been star-ted primarily to protect the quality oriented districts. The reason behind this a sharp criticism of the relaxation of the wine regulations that are beginning to creep insidiously into the old world.It’s mostly about whether one can blend white and red wine to a kind of sub-stitute Rosé, to able to use oak chips and that the rules pertaining to the labels are to be changed. “Quality wines are non-negotiable,” says one of the initiates.

JFC

The SpanISh fIlm hunk anTonIo BandeRaS IS GoInG To Be a wIne GRoweR

But hardly fulltime, his main home is still Hollywood California. But he has bought 50% of a Spanish bodega called Anta Bodegas in Ribera del Duero to start with.

Naturally this has got the Bodega´s marketing department clapping their hands with joy, because this is exactly what the district needs, a famous face behind their Vino tinto red, which has been losing ground against their biggest competitor Rioja who’s PR campaign, modern approach to wine making with their Tempranillo red wine and their spec-tacular architecture. “Antonio has been looking for an opportunity like this for a long time. So he is full of drive and enthusiasm to be part of a Vineyard like this”, Federico Ortega the Bodega boss explains to the Spa-nish Press.

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Top chIlean wIne makeR doeS IT In douRoAurelio Montes, the grand old man of Chilean wine, has decided to make a wine in the highly desirable Douro in Portugal. He has recently returned from a round trip in the area, and has commented in the Chilean wine press that his motivation is was to find a suitable soil for a vineyard and somebody to col-laborate with. But it won’t only be powerful red wine that will be produced in this vicinity, which also has received enormous attention to internationally in recent years. No, they will be attempting to make a traditional port. Today Au-relio Montes is the author of some of Chile’s most appreciated wines, amongst others Montes Folly, made from 100% Syrah, a veritable power pack , which enjoys an almost cult status.

JFC

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The BeRlIn TaSTInG In STockholm6th May was the day that was earmarked for a new, exciting installment of the BERLIN TASTING, this time it was held in the Grand Hotel in Stockholm.Present were Andreas Larsson our world champion sommelier and Eduardo Chadwick, remember him? The legend that that made SENA wines together with Robert Mondavi in Chilé and outclassed all of the top French wines at a blind tasting in Berlin. As well as Bengt-Göran Kronstam. Together they led the tasting which had assembled the elite of the Swedish wine establishment. How did it go? Well as follows:

1: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2004

2: Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 2004

3: Chateau Margaux 2004

4: Don Maximiano 2005

5: Ornellaia 2004

6: Sena 2005

7: Don Maximiano 2004

8: Vinedo Chadwick 2005

9: Sena 2004

10: Sassicaia 2004

a waSa foRTReSS wITh wIne and cheeSe

For the 14th year in a row Örebro Cast-le in the middle of April opened it’s do-ors to Wine and Cheese lovers. Helped by the streaming spring sunshine, vi-sitors flocked to Örebro for this annual event. The Château Grand Cru 2009 was of course very popular and the noble building was filled with wines and olive oils from all over the world, as well as cheeses from near and far. The visitors were treated to an abundance of wonderful aromas and fragrances as they mingled with each other.Interest for the better wines is growing steadily in Sweden and Chateau Grand Cru contributes greatly in spreading knowledge and information about what the market has to offer.

René BaRBeR IS 65 YeaRS old In Sweden

The first bottles came to Sweden already in the end phases of the se-cond world war. Namely 1944. Some people say that they are the first glass bottles that were ever imported to Sweden. Heretofore all wine used to be imported in bulk and subsequently bottled here. That might or might not be true, but any old way, the fact remains that it was the first Spanish wine from the Pe-nedés region that came to Sweden. Naturally the USA is the biggest market for René Barbiér, but guess who´s second?…Right! We are! A box of Rosé wine is to be launched before the summer. 1st May in an off-license near you.

RIoJa SommelIeR awaRd 2009This year´s winner comes from the Sca-nia region of southern Swe-den and calls itself “Gustibus”. The Rioja sommelier Award is presented annually and is Sweden´s only competition for som-melier students. This year the compe-tition was held in the restaurant “Close to Heaven on the 26th floor of the In-land Revenue Scraper in Stockholm. The jury consisted of Mats Olauson: System Bolaget as well as Charlotte Bengtsson and Håkan Larsson: wine journalists. The three “Gustibus” win-ners won a trip to Rioja this autumn to further improve their knowledge of this interesting wine district.

new RIoJa fRom ToRReSMiquel Torres has been traveling around Sweden, Norway and Den-mark to personally present his new Rioja which he calls Ibéricos 2006 and which consists of 100% Tempranillo. Ibéricos is vitified by 14 days skin con-tact, after which follows the fermenta-tion in separate stainless steel tanks.It is then stored in a mixture of French and American oak casks 10% of which are new ones.

You can taste the results after the 1st of May in the System Bolaget`s (Swedish State owned retail outlets) ordering assortment lists. The Natu-reo 2007 was presented at the same time. The wine is almost devoid of any alcohol content (0.5%) made from Muscatel grapes. If served at the right temperature the wine should function well at e.g. Student Parties, driving a car, as well as expectant Mothers who wish to enjoy an active social life. It will probably be placed quite near to the check out counter.

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auSTRIan wIne pRoduceRS aTTend The InTeRfood TRade faIR In GoThenBoRGOn the 18th May Fred Loimer and Fritz Weiniger, Gernot Heinrich and Madeleine Stenwreth (Mondo Wine) as well as Willi Sattlerho & Andreas Wickhoff all participated in wine tas-ting and seminars during the In food Fair in Gothenborg. The/AWT09 con-clude with a Wine Makers dinner at Heaven 23 On the 23rd floor of Hotel Gothia.

fIne wIne GRapeS GRowInG In VolcanIc SoIl Michele Tessari was a guest in Stockholm in May to Tell us about Ca´Rugate and how the volcanic soil in conjunction with the sunny micro climate location is helping them to assure the quality of their Soave Classica wine in Monteforte d´Alpone. The grapes are Garanega and Trebbiano di Soave for the white wines and Corvine, Rondinella and Corvinone for the reds. And their big-gest export market is guess – Yes right, Scandinavia.

QualITY IS The moTTo

Stéphane Follin Arbelet CEO of Bouchard Pére & Fils and William Févre were recent guests in Stockholm. They told us about their ambition to become the best producers in Bourgogne. “Tradition and tech-nology go hand in hand in our firm. It might mean that sometimes we use small areas of our vineyards divided separately to produce the high quality that the market demands at the present time. Contrary to what most people say, I believe that white wines age better that red. I stand by my opinion, says Stép-hane. By planting three or four ha vines every year, we create the possibility even for the upcoming ge-nerations to produce top of the range wines. 40 years is generally the best average age for a vine. In other

words high ambitions.The proof is to be found in an off-license near you.

The TempRanIllo compeTIon comeS To STockholm foR The fIRST TIme The plan is that the Spanish national grape the Tempranillo is to experience a great break through in Stockholm. It is true that Sweden is one of the countri-es where the consumption of Riojas is highest but the grape is cultivated at so many places on the Iberian peninsular. The wine competition is called Tem-pranillo al Mundo and different countries compete with wines made from the great Spanish grape even if they are produced all over the world. It is cultiva-ted amongst other places in Australia, Portugal, California and Argentina. The competition will be held between the 26th and 29th May. Last year’s winner was Menus 4 Alta Expressión 2005 from Bodegas Lar de Paula in Rioja. For more information go to www.enologo.com.

The competition is a collaboration between the Spanish Foreign Trade Mis-sion ICEX and the international wine organization OIV

JFC

Fine Wines very own homepage

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of couRSe whITe wines from Italy sell reasonably well. But what are they like? What do we know about them? Where are they? And what do they give us? Well, Italian whites prevail in spite of everything. They are outstandingly competitive, from the point of view of quality, par-ticularly the beautifully green Verdicchio grape.

green light for whites in italy

Text Johan Franco Cereceda

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RED WINES from Italy enjoy an enor-mous reputation.It’s enough just to spell the words, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Barbera and Nero d´Avola to get most of us to surrender. But what are things like on the white side of the line? The answer is not very good. Not in quality though, rather more in ack-nowledgement. Generally speaking, Italian white wine, regardless of good sale figures has nothing more than an OK standing. We’ll know more about this and a whole lot more, particular the country’s most exciting green grape the Verdicchio when we talk to Swedish Barbro Guaccero, who’s lived in La Marche for decades. “Italian white wines are extremely neglected on the Swedish market“, she says directly. - “Why do you think so?”- The majority of the consumers are expecting a wine like a Chardonnay from Australia or a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zea-land. But most of the whites from

Italy don’t have these turgid inflated flavors with overly explicit aromas. Barbro Guaccero has been working with wines for a long time. Among-st others with Vin & Sprit (The for-mer Swedish state owned wholesale monopoly) Today she continues her association partly with Pernod Ric-hard. Though she also launches wi-nes under her own label, is often on visits to Sweden just to say hello or to hold highly appreciated lectures and wine tasting. She believes that

the reason the Italian white wines haven’t attained the appreciation they so rightly deserve is due to the Italians themselves.“I think that the Italians are not good at promoting their white wi-nes, apart from that, when one thinks of Italy one automatically thinks of red wines.The most famous wine districts in Italy like Toscana and Veneto are in fact pronounced red wine areas.-“ Do you think this situation can be turned around?”- “ Oh yes, there is an enormous po-tential in white wines in Italy. Also a lot has happened in recent years, the quality has improved remarkably.A lot of research has been done so that the wines receive as much of that distinctive originality as pos-sible. New techniques have been developed to take care of the aroma substances contained within the grape. All of this is making quite a difference.

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“However the market place is chan-ging, she says.

THE INTERNATIONAL market is very important for the survival of the Ita-lian wine industry. It´s quite simple, they have to export. But to be a suc-cess internationally then you have to adapt yourself to the consumer´s taste with wines that have a clear typicality, big aromas and bouqu-ets. That’s why Barbro believes that the key is lies in being able to offer wines with great identities in which one has successfully brought out the grape variety’s full potential. Not to kill them with oak or alcohol.“Thanks to research, we are so much better at this today than we were for only fifteen years ago.We know so much more about the aroma molecules present in diffe-rent grapes and how to vilify them into the best possible bouquet. Traditional white wines from Italy are not oaky, not assertive, rather more light .The areas of usage are a little different where food traditions vary, not least with fish dishes. Here we eat freshly caught fish, turned quickly over the coals, no sauces or other savory accessories. This is the reason that the white wines have become light, quite neutral, more elegant.

THERE ARE MANY interesting wine regions in Italy that make high qua-lity white wines. Barbro Guaccero points in particular to Kampanien, Kalabrien, Piemonte. Grapes like the Falanghina, Fiano, Gechetto in Kampanien has a great chance to be featured. Soave is up and coming more and more but even in Kala-bria with the Mantonico and Greco grapes. Apulia has another exciting grape, the Fiano aromatico, which is not all similar to the Fiano grape in Kampania. It is more remini-

scent of the Gewurztraminer with its spicy tone. Piemonte has its Ar-neis, which is another exciting gra-pe, like the Erbulace even with its high acerbity. But perhaps the fore-most green grape of all is the one that Barbro has growing around her house in La Marche, the Verdicchio. “The Verdicchio grape is absolutely one of Italy’s best green grapes. It has great versatility, very high aci-dity, big structure, thereby making it possible to age longer. You can lay down Verdicchio wines for up to ten or fifteen years.

SOMETHING WE are not exactly spoi-led with, when it comes to Italian whites. “Apart from the that”, she says It’s Ok to make any kind of wine you want: anything from the easily drinkable right up to cast fermented wines and wines with potentially long lives - and not least- the thick, syrupy, “pass it over variety!” Added to that the grape makes perfect dinner wines and not only to fish. I was up in the North a little while ago for a wine tasting. Following this we were served a fil-let of Reindeer with a lingon berry chutney. The best wine was a partly cask fermented verdicchio, a Vigna

Novali from Moncaro. But what is it that makes this grape so uni-que. Well there is one thing that becomes patently obvious from tas-ting many high quality Verdicchio wines and that is its ability to ab-sorb minerals. While at the same time the producers are very eager to constantly improve their wines. Potentiality is one thing, it’s quite another to actually succeed in ma-king god wine from the grape. This demands a commitment, a love of the raw material and a large portion of inquisitiveness. But they have it in spades. The research is intensive.

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Within the grape there some Euphoric compounds, thiosul-phates which are broken down by oxidization. That’s why the vi-nification has to be carried out in an environment that is devoid of oxygen. It is a costly process. The technology works like this. When the grapes come in they are placed on the conveyer belt, to be covered in frozen carbon dioxide snow.

THIS IS TO cut off the contact with the air, to minimize the risk for ox-idization. All of the tubes, presses and tanks that the essence has to pass through are filled with carbon dioxide. The reason for all this is to treat the fruit in a completely different way than before. A met-hod of vinification that Moncaro, one of the more emblematic wine companies that Barbro works with, has employed since 1995. The re-sult is a wine with a decidedly ri-cher bouquet, more fruitiness and grape character.Behind this method you will find wellfocused research. We know so much more about the bio-chemistry of wine than we did only 15 years ago.

MONCARO IS the leader in research and development surrounding vi-nification of Verdicchio in conjun-ction with the University of Anco-na. But let us not forget that not all producers use this hi-tech model.Most of them are still in the same old rut.

BARBRO THINKS that another im-portant area of research which will have great impact upon the deve-lopment of quality, is that which is aimed at isolating/cultivating the best yeast culture for the vinifica-tion of the Verdicchio grape. What

differentiates one yeast strain from another is their enzyme content. Different enzymes have the ability to break down the diverse chemi-cal bindings in the grape essence. Similar to what happens in our digestive system. Every yeast cul-ture has it’s own group of enzymes. Enzymes function rather like a key to unlock aromas which as long as they are bound to the other mo-lecules in the essence are unnoti-ceable. IF YOU TASTE a Verdicchio grape then you won’t b e able to enjoy its rich fruity aroma and taste wit-hout the first fermentation having taken place, releasing its aromatic substances. The difference bet-ween the various yeast cultures is mainly the type of enzymes that the yeast cultures contain. The aim of the research then is to develop yeast cultures that can release the otherwise blocked aromas.Apart from that they have to be ca-pable of fermentation at quite low

temperatures. So, if you have done your homework, the end result is a wine extremely endowed with grape character. Now it’s all about not masking the wine´s fruitiness and origins with casks. That’s why amongst the more innovative pro-ducers in La Marche, casks are more of an exception than the rule. It is not so usual that wine made from Verdicchio is stored in casks.

SOMETIMES THEY allow a portion of the wine to ferment in casks to give it more complexity. But if you use the casks too much, then you lose some of the fruiti-ness, and the vanilla character of the wood in the cask takes over. No, the wine should sooner pos-sess an intensive, fresh fruitiness with tones of different kinds of ci-trus fruits, mandarin, lemon, exo-tic fruits and apricot. Quite simply Verdicchio!

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LOMOND får sin unika prägel av den regionlängst ner i Sydafrika där de två världshavenmöts - Cape Agulhas

Färgen är mörkt röd med en mjuk, mulligfruktsmak som avslutas med toner av chokladoch en pepprig friskhet. Ett vin för mustiga grytor och lite kraftigare rätter, gärna medinslag av vilt.

Lomond Syrah. Pris: 90:–. Volym: 75 cl.Alkohol: 14,5%. Art.nr: 6606-01.

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red and white from provènce

Text Britt Karlsson photo Per Karlsson, bkwine.com

poweRful BandolFor a long time Bandol wine was the only serious red wine that Pro-vence had to offer. With its drawn out, spicy, impetuous taste and its aroma of decomposing leaves, stacked with berries and fruit, it wasn’t comparable to any other in Provence. Nowadays the competi-tion has toughened and we’ re star-ting to find interesting reds from Coteaux d´Aix-en-Provence and Les Baux. As well one or another from the larger appellations Có-tes-de-Provence which otherwise strongly dominated by Rosé wines. However Bandol re-tains its position as a quality pro-ducer.

of just about 1200 hectares lies prettily by the seaside. Bandol is part of the early appellations in France. The district received its AOC as early as 1941 and many of today’s great profiles from the big Bandon properties helped in deve-loping the appellation into what it is today.Not least a certain Lucien Peyraud. Back in 1936 he married Lucie Tempier. In 1940 during a terrible war the young couple came to the

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of couRSe they make a lot of red wine in Provence, which incidentally is getting bet-ter and better. But we mustn’t lose sight of the fact that the two oldest appellations in Provence are for red and white wine. They are round and character full wines and the fact that they are situated wonderfully along the Mediterranean coast doesn’t exactly make things any worse.

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Domaine Tempier to take care of the family’s vineyard.

DOMAIN TEMPIER actually had a bit of role to play in Bandol even be-fore Lucien Peyraud entered the stage. After the Phylloxera crisis (a tiny aphid like insect which attacks the roots of the vines) LéonieTempier was one of the first to re-plant his vineyard with grafted vi-nes resistant to the wine louse.

LUCIEN PEYRAUD engaged himself from the start in the creation of the Bandol appellation. He was voted into Le Syndicat de Défense de l´apellation and he fought for the Mourvedré to be Bandol´s gre-at grape. It was hard times during the war, there was no running wa-ter, electricity or petrol. Lucien jumped on his bicycle to attend meeting in Toulon.

His goal was to make Bandol into a great wine, on a par with Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Cóte-Ro-tie, Hermitage or Cháteauneuf-du-Pape.

This was to be achieved with the help of the Mourvédre, which of course it did. Exactly in accordance with

Lucien’s wishes the Bandol wines are dominated today by the po-werful and character full Mourve-dre. This grape is cultivated even in Cháteauneuf-du-Pape and is spreading more and more around Provence and Languedoc. Though it has its home in Bandon where it thrives outstandingly in the warm and pleasant climate beside the sea. The Mourvedre needs the sea view namely, otherwise it has dif-ficulty in ripening properly. This is a fact that quite a few Languedoc growers have experienced when they’ve planted their Mourvedre too high up the mountain side. The grape matures late in the sea-son and is harvested normally in the middle of October.

IT’S VERY PRETTY in Bandon with most of the vineyards perched up on difficult slopes. The wine gro-wers have been forced to build dry stone walls, the so called restan-ques to keep the soil from washing away and to get rid of the biggest stones in the vineyard. The biggest challenge at the present time is re-sisting the pressure from the real estate agents.

In their eyes Bandol is very att-ractively situated, but of course it’s

nice as long as the wine growers keep the countryside open. You would think that this fact alone would make the price of Bandon wines much more expensive than they are. Wines from the most fa-mous growers like; Pradeaux, Van-nières, Pibarnon, Frégate, Tempier, are actually about 25 to 30 Euro a bottle but the majority are bet-ween 12 to 15 Euro a bottle. THE TOPSOIL is quite stony and con-sists mainly of chalk and sandstone. The whole appellation has quite a homogenous soil, which is meager and well drained. It’s quite dry in the summer, which is compensa-ted by the 600mm rain that falls during the rest of the year. Bandol is made up of 8 boroughs: Bandol, La Cardiére d´Azur, Saint- Cyr-sur-Mer, La Castellet, Le Beausset, Evenos, Ollioulles and Sanary. All of them are very picturesque villa-ges, either high up medieval ones like Castellet and Cardiére d´Azur or small fishing communities by the sea like Sanary and Saint- Cyr-sur-Mer

SANARY IS A little fishing harbor, which I think is reminiscent of

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Saint-Tropez. Here it’s an absolute joy to go to the Friday market and inspect the seasonal vegetables, the fine white asparagus, artichokes, lots of garlic, herbs and spices, fish, shell fish and cheeses. All along the quay you can buy sea urchins. Ours in- and eat them raw on the spot. A delicacy I have to admit I haven’t yet learned to appreciate.

APPELLATION BANDOL has strict regulations for its wi-nes. The vines themselves must be at least seven years old before they are allowed to used for Red Bandol. The growers can use the young vines for the popular Rosé instead. One bottle is namely the motto here in Bandol. The yield is maximized to 40 hectoliter per hectare and many keep it lower than that. Machine harvesting is strictly forbidden,But with these kinds of slopes it would be extremely difficult. The contents must contain at least 50% and at most 95% in the red wines. Mourvedre is com-plimented by Grenache and Cinsault and to a lesser extent Carignan. There are divided opinions upon how much Mourvedre is appropriate? Agnes Henry-Hocquard the colorful owner-proprietor of La Tour de Bon, thinks the Mourvedre delivers a one dimensio-

nal wine. She blends between 55% and 65% Mouve-dre with Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. Her wines lean more towards the elegant, though they posses the typical aroma of the Mourvedre, a wisp of leather and decomposing leaves. She also makes a special wine in the style of Port which she has rather jestingly christe-ned Vin d´Dou (wine from where?) a little pun based upon the French Vin Doux (sweet wine).

châTeau VannIèReSJean Phillppe Furney, the young wine maker from Cháteau Vanniéres has conversely increased the amount of Mourvedre in his wines. Vanniéres is a beautiful property of 33 hectares, which lies between Cadiére d´Azur and Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer on a southerly and westerly exposure, sheltered from the north by the Sainte Baume massive. The property has probably been in existence since the 16th century. The present owners of Vanniéres, the Boisseux family bought it in 1957. The quality level has always been high, even if the property hasn’t belonged to the real top Bandon vineyards. Though a number of changes in recent years leads on to expect

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great things in the future. They let the wine rest for shorter periods in the casks so as to retain the fresh fruity taste. Some of the wines are kept in the smaller barriquer (60 gallon oak keg) rather than the larger foudre (large oak cask, 500 liters)

ACCORDING TO the AOC laws (Ap-pellation D`Origine Cóntrolée) the Bandol wines have to spend at least 10 months “on the wood”. It used to be more normal to leave them for longer periods. Now there are many, just like Vanniéres that are quite thorough in bott-ling the wine before the fresh fruit taste has completely disappeared. Though the tannins in the Mouve-dre grape need at least 18 months to tame them down according to many. At Cháteau Vanniéres it’s also possible to get hold of old vintages, which is interesting be-cause Bandon wines have good potential for laying down. Ván-niéres also do a very pleasant and wellrounded Rosè from Grenache and Cinsault. The demand for Bandol Rosé wines is great. At the present time they represent 40%

of the total production. The white Bandol wines, on the other hand are not so well known and cor-respondingly stand for a very small part of total production. However it’s an interesting wine, well worth discovering. Venire’s green grapes, the Clairette and Rolle - grow on

a northerly exposition and that in combination with the refreshing sea breezes gives a certain tartness to wines. The aroma is dominated by white flowers, citrus and an inclination of exotic fruit. domaIne la SuffRéneThe added value factor when you visit properties in Bandol is that many of them produce their own olive oil. The Domaine La Suffré-ne for example is an old property owned by the pleasant Gravier fa-mily. It was firstly back in 1996 that they began to make their own wine. Previously they had delive-red their grapes to the cooperative. La Suffréne consists of 45 hectares and lies between Cadiére d´Azur and Castellet. Apart from the 45 hectares of vines, the Gravier fami-ly also have a 1000 olive trees on the estate. In 1996 they took over an olive press so that they could make and sell their own olive oil. They equipped a premises for the production and storing the oil in steel tanks. Many different kinds of olives were cultivated. Aglan-

dau, Brun, Caillon, Salonique, Tanche, Bouteillan, Grossane, Picholine, Cailletier and Luques. Normally the harvest is between the 15th November and 15th De-cember and is completed manu-ally. The kind of oil they make is

“Fruite Noir”.The manufacturing process for this kind of oil is pick them and crush them in the press straight away. With the “fruite noir”, they allow the olives to lay for a few days be-fore the pressing process begins. Some of them get broken which in turn sets off a decomposition procedure which causes certain aromas to be accentuated. This kind of oil is often much rounder in taste.

THE SUFFRéNE red wine is made from 55% Mourvedre, 20% Gre-nache, 15% Cinsault and 10% Carignan. The vines are old and pruned short in the Gobelet. Go-belet is recommended in Bandol because this method of pruning, is best way to protect the vines against the violent mistral winds. The green harvest is done to hold back the yield. After the obligatory 18th months on the wood in the great oaken casks the wines are bottled without filtering or clarify-ing. The wine has a good fruitiness, strength, length and soft tannins. The good Rosé is made from the same grapes and the malolactic

fermentaion is often blocked off to retain the freshness and acidity in the wine. The wine itself has a long taste, a certain corpulence and fine fruit aromas. The interes-ting white wines are made from 25% Ugni Blanc, the pulp receives

>>>

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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several hours skin contact (which gives the wine a certain corpulen-ce) and then the fermentation at a low temperature. The malolactic fermentation is blocked off here as well.

domaIne de SouVIouThe Domaine de Souviou in Beausset is a property of 51 hec-tares of vines and 7 hectares with 6000 olive trees. A fragrant avenue of lilacs leads us up to the dwel-lings, a beautifully restored 16th century Provencal “Bastide”. The whole property with its park like grounds has been very well looked after since the new owners took over in 2001. Here you can stroll around among 1000 year old olive trees and other typical Provencal vegetation. The wine cultivation is done ecologically, with stricter quality demands than the regula-tions decree.

THE YIELD is between 30-35 hecto-liter per hectare and restrained by removing a number of grape clus-ters already in June. The red wines are made from approximately 75% Mourvedre and the rest Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan in differing proportions depen-ding upon the vintage. The essence is allowed to ferment for week at a temperature of 28 degrees followed by a further soaking for 10 days at a slightly higher temperature.The wines lay partially in large foudre or the smaller barriquer for a year and a half. The wine is round, structured and full of taste with a discreet fragrance of decom-posing leaves. The Rosé is made from 60% Cinsault, 30% Gre-nache and 10% Mourvedre. The grapes are crushed and then left to ferment without any skin contact. To retain the aroma the fermen-tation is carried slowly over two

weeks at a low temperature- 16 de-grees- in stainless steel tanks. The Rosé is light in color, slightly spicy in bouquet with a good roundness in the mouth.I recommend it both as a pavilion Rosé as well as to food.

BouIllaBaISSe and caSIS We’re getting nearer to Marseille and end up in the little town of Cassis. To sit and eat a bouillabais-se or a plate of oysters at a little harbor café in the picturesque little fishing township is a pure delight.Naturally there is also a Cassis in our glasses. The name of the place is the same as the local white wine. It is pronounced Cassi, if you want to blend in with natives. (Cassi with an S on the end means black current)

CASSIS IS one of Provence’s oldest appellations, after being totally wi-ped out by the Phylloxeran (wine louse) the district was gradually replanted , thanks to firebrands like Joseph Savon of Clos Sainte-Magdelaine and Emile Bodin from the Domaine de Fontblanche. The year was 1930 when the very first AOC was issued and Cassis went forwards. Today the appellation consists of 165 hectares split bet-ween 12 properties. On just like in other Mediterranean appellations, (Bandol, Bellet…They have the property developers are breathing down their necks. It’s all about the valuable land for lei-sure houses. But let’s hope that the special white survives the tempta-tions. With its roundness, dryness and slightly nutty tang, it is a very character full wine. Perhaps the wine lacks the lively acidity that is required to oysters, but to cooked fish and shellfish it fits admirably.

THE MOST important grapes for the

Cassis is the Ugni Blanc, Clairet-

>>>

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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te, Marsanne, and the Sauvignon Blanc. The Bourboulenc, called Doucillon hereabouts is present in very small amounts and many of the producers see it as their duty to not allow the old grape type Pascal Blanc to disappear Completely. Marsanne and Clair-ette are today expanding their acreage to the detriment of Ugni Blanc. Although, generally spea-king the Ugni Blanc is considered to have a good acidity in spite of its discreet aroma. The acidity is important to balance out the other grape’s corpulence.

ONE OF THE most prominent property’s in Cassis is the Clos Sainte-Magdeleine, which enjoys a fantastic location right on the outskirts of town. The vines grow on the slopes that run down to the sea at the foot of Cape Canaille, a spectacular, towering chalk cliff. The property which is owned by the Sack family is planted with 40% Marsanne, 30% Clairette, 30% Ugni Blanc and a little Sau-vignon Blanc. The grapes are hand picked, the stalks are crushed and the essence is then allowed to fer-ment in stainless steel tanks until bottling, one year after the harvest.

Quite a simple process, but the re-sult is a richly tasting wine, with tones of honey, exotic fruit, orange peel and citrus both in aroma and taste.

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It is time for the next Selected Wine and Spirits Auctions.

AuctionsThe small auction for single bottles, takes place on June 2nd, at 3 pm at Stockholms Auktionsverk, Magasin 5, Frihamnen in Stockholm.

The large auction takes place on June 9th, at 12 pm at Stock-holms Auktionsverk, Nybrogatan 32, Stockholm.

PreviewThe objects are on view in Frihamnen, Magasin 5, Stock-holm on June 1st and 8th, between 3 and 7 pm. For a private viewing please contact Stockholms Auktionsverk, telephone +46 8 453 67 15. You will find all objects at auktionsverket.se as well as in the printed catalogue.

Read more about the auction at systembolaget.se and auktionsverket.se

Good news for connoisseurs

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Go in under “click here”

under www.finewine.nu,

and ventilate your opinions

on Fine Wines. Tell us about

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Fine Wine Community.

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

17

“Det här är Stockholms motsvarighet till Osteria Verona på Piazza Erbe fast listan på Primewinebar är bättre.”www.amaroneguiden.se

PrimewinebarÖstermalmstorg 5, Stockholmwwww.primewinebar.se

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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THE MANY FACES OF SANGIOVESES

TEXT & PHOTO: URSULA HELLBERG

whaT doeS an original Sangiovese taste like? The question has many answers, de-pending on where you are asking it. Right now I’m in Florence at the start of the gigantic preliminary tasting, which will stretch from Montepulciano to Montalcino for almost a whole week’s duration. The arranger’s are the district’s three major Consor-tiums; The Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, Consorzio del Vino di Montepulciano and

THE VISION IS overpowering, I have never seen so many bottles standing in a row on a single table. Even though I have been here many ti-mes before.Meter after meter after meter. Stan-ding similarly in a neat row are the sommeliers ready to serve up the Chianti Classico DOCG 2007 and the Chianti Classico Reserva 2006 both of which are to be premier

tasted. The 2006 and 2007 vintages are considered to belong to the bet-ter Chianti´s of the 2000´s. They are almost in the same class as the outstanding 2004 and 2001, which is a comfort after the decidedly in-ferior 2005.

IN CHIANTI the wine laws allow for a certain leeway to soften up the somewhat harsh Sangiovese grape

with other types of grape. The re-gulations permit a blending of up to 20%. My own taste buds initially fine tuned to discover the typical grape flavors like, cherries, violets and licorice. The traditional produ-cers still use pure Sangiovese. By the Castello di Radda (Poggio Selvale), Poggiopiano and Villa Cafaggio only 100% will do. In spite of the absence of tannin shock. The wine

>>>

The place: Florence, Stazione Leopolda, Tuesday 17th February 2009 10.am.

THE COMPE TENT SOMMELIERS HAD A LOT TO DO DURING THE BENVENUTO BRUNELLO

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is finely balanced with pleasant mi-neral tones rather than fruity.

WITH A SLIGHT element of Canaiolo the wines receive a rather becoming roundness, something which Car-pineto amongst others rather feels. The problem is though that the gra-pes like the Malvasia Nera are dif-ficult to cultivate.The Colorino is a colorful grape that lives up to its name. Though the modern producers prefer to soften up their wines with Merlot. Castello di Selvole chooses to let a whole 20% of the wine contain Merlot. In the Collelungos Riserva 2006, one is satisfied with just 10 % which is more than enough to achieve a good result.

mY peRSonal faVoRITeS amonGST The chIanTI claSSIc.CarpinetoCastellare di Castellina Castello di FonterutoliFattoria Le FontiFattoria NittardiQuerciabella Villa S. Andrea Borgoconda

Montepulciano Piazza Grane, Thurs-day 19th February 2009 11.30 a.m.

THE MEDIEVAL TOWN square in Mon-telpulciano, is under canvas today, covered in by a giant tent.It is the Antiprima del Vino Nobile di Montelpulciano, and the crush of the visitors is great. The wine producers and the journalists share the space and they have just finis-hed listening to the consortiums new president Frederico Carletti welcome speech.He owns the Poliziano and has re-cently taken over the presidency from Luca Gattavecchi, who after last year´s wine scandal decided to resign.

The reason for the scandal was the suspicion that the wines from Mon-tepulciano were blended with grapes from another Italian district. The Guardia Finanzia carried out several raids in the hunt for e grape fraud. Actually the wine laws do allow apart from Prugnolo Gentile which is Sangiovese´s real name, up to 30% of other variety of grapes, but they have to come from the district.For those who wish to experiment with new varieties of grapes, can buy land in the nearby Cortona

which received its DOC status in 1999.The Antinori owned La Braccesca is one of the producers who suc-ceeded in combining traditional wi-nes like the Vino Nobile and Santa Pia (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG) with innovation through such wines as Achelio and Brama-sole (Cortona DOC Syrah)

mY peRSonal faVoRITeS fRom monTepulcIanoBindella La BraccescaBoscarelliIcarioPolizianoTenimenti Angekini “Three Roses”Tenuta Valdipiatta Montalcino Teatro Degli Asturi Sa-turday 21st February 2009 12.00

ALESSAANDRO GRAzI, painter and graphic artist carries the square ce-ramic tile carefully in his hands. He has just come from the theater whe-

BACK TO BASICS. THE CASATO PRIME DONNE IS OWNED BY THE COLORFUL DO-NATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI. AT THE PRESENT TIME THEY TRYING TO REVERT TO THE OLD SCHOOL OF WINE PRODUC TION, WHICH AMONGST OTHER THINGS MEANS FERMENTATION IN OPEN TANKS, OUTDOORS AND ONLY USING NATURAL YEAST. THE PROjEC T IS CALLED “ TINAIA DEL VENTO”. INTERESTINGLY ENOUGH IN THIS CONTEXT THE VINEYARDS WORK FORCE CONSISTS ENTIRELY OF WOMEN. HE WE SEE WINE MAKER BARBARA MAGNANI SER VE UP A SAMPLE OF THE NEW WINE WHICH IS STILL UNDER DEVELOPMENT, DIREC TLY FROM THE CASK.

DAI UNA MANO ALLA PACE, THIS YEARS CERAMIC PLATE IS INLAID INTO THE “ VINTAGE WALL,” IN MONTALCINO WITH ALL DUE CEREMONY. THE ARTIST IS ALESSANDRO GRAzzI AND THE MAN ON HIS LEFT IS PATRIzIO CENCIONI THE PRESIDENT OF THE CONSORTIUM.

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re together with President Patrizio Cencioni from the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, he moun-ted the annual plate into the “vintage wall” outside.This is a tradition that reaches back to 1991, that an artist gets to design a tile which denotes how many stars the yearly vintage has been awarded.

THE DAY BEFORE there had been a big wine tasting in the old fort-ress. The festival is called “Ben-venuto Brunello” and is the last act of the week´s wine tasting relay. In the glass yesterday Bru-nello di Montalcino 2004, a five star wine was served. It is cha-racterized by its great elegance and already it feels accessible. The reserve wine from 2003, on the other hand, was not doing quite so well.

IT BELONGS to a vintage that has become the subject of a grea-

ter interest than the producers had planned for. Well known firms like Banfi, Antinori (Pian delle Vigne), Argiani and Frescobaldi (Castelgiocondo) have ended up under the authorities magnifying glass in the chase for grapes other than the 100% Brunello (Sangiovese) which are the only authorized variety in this DOCG.

AT BANFI THEY found a wine that contained a negligible amount of other grapes. The wine was re-classified. Argiano chose to re-classify the and Bru-nello 2003 of their own accord. It was re-released as Toscana IGT. Antinoris´s Pian delle Vigne made it without any bad marks at all, while half of the Fre-cobaldis Castel Giocondo 2003 was released in July.

It is noteworthy however that none of the above took

any of the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2003 with them to the annual Benvenuto Brunello festival.

HOW MANY STARS did the 2008 vintage receive?Four in all. The Ceramic plate was adorned with a hand bearing the legend “Dai una mano alla pace” (Stretch out your hand for peace) A message that carries the spirit of optimism, not only for the world but also for the wine producers who have had their knuckles rapt in recent years.

peRSonal faVoRITeS fRom monTalcInoAgostini PieriBaricciSestiSan PoloTenuta OlivetoCapanne RiciCiacci Piccolomini d´Aragona Donatella Cinelli ColombiniLa ColombinaLa Lecciaia

READY FOR TASTING. THE COCKEREL HAS BEEN THE SYM-BOL FOR CHIANTI CLASSICO FOR QUITE SOME TIME.

THE GERMAN ART DEALER PE TER FEMFERT IS A PARTNERIN FAT TORIA NIT TARDI. AS HOMAGE TO NIT TARDI´S MOST FAMOUS OWNER, MICHELANGELO, A LIMITED EDITION OF CASANOUVA DI NIT TARDI IS RELEASED EVERY YEAR.THE BOT TLES LABELS ARE ALWAYS DESIGNED BY FAMOUS ARTISTS. ON THE LEFT WE SEE BOT TLES DESIGNED BY YOKO ONO. THE BEAR THE LEGEND “IMAGINE ME, IMAGINE YOU, IMAGINE US, IMAGINE PEACE.

IT´S BEEN A TURBU-LENT YEAR FOR THE PRODUCERS OF VINO NOBILE DI MON-TELPULCIANO. BUT FREDERICO CARLE T TI LOOKED CALM AND COLLEC TED AS HE DELIVERED HIS WEL-COME SPEECH.

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peter thustrup andthe great beverage auction in stockholm

4532châTeau d´YQuem 1967Sauternes, 1er Cru Supérieur Stored in private cellarDamp affected labelSlip label: H.j Hansen, Odense A/SDanish tax label1 bt6.000 - 7.000EUR 550 – 640“One of the really great classic Yquem vintages. It is round, complex with an unbelievable length. 97/100

4559le monTRacheT 1983DRC, Côte de Beaune, Grand CruStored in private cellaru. 1 x 2,0cmNumber 000322Danish tax label1 bt10.000 - 12.000EUR 910 - 1.100“I had some of this about 8 ye-ars ago, this is a really powerful Montrachet, a little bit botrytised (a sweet and uniquely honey fla-vor caused by the mold botrytis,) golden yellow, complex and a fine length. We didn´t finish off the whole bottle and the following it was if anything, better.”

4604châTeau monTRoSe 1975St-Estèphe, 2ème Cru ClasséStored private cellaru. 9in, 3vts12 bts6.000 - 7.200EUR 550 - 655“ This is one of the good old Mont-rose style wines. Powerful, mascu-line, a little bit on the rustic side.To be drunk now with a cheese or a good steak. 90/100

4624châTeau laTouR 1973Pauillac, 1er Cru ClasséStored at Vinkällaren Grappe, Stock-holmBin soiled labelsTwo nicked labels11 bts11.000 - 13.000EUR 1.000 - 1.200“A surprising wine, a small vintage but Latour has succeeded well. Per-haps on its way down now, meager but fine fruitiness, a bit thin still a little complexity and a fine finish.”87/100

4625châTeau mouTon RoThSchIld 1975Pauillac, 1er Cru ClasséStored in private cellaru. 3vts, 3ts6 bts7.200 - 8.400EUR 655 – 760“Drink it up, a good wine, but no-thing special.” 85/100

4629leS foRTS de laTouR 1981Second wine of Château Latour, PauillacStored in private cellar7 bts (owc, lid broken)4.200 - 4.900EUR 380 – 450“A classic well made Bordeaux, well balanced but not particularly complex. Rather pleasant though.88/100

4656ReSeRVe de la comTeSSe 1985Pauillac, Stored in private cellar

11 bts (owc, lid broken)9.000 - 11.000EUR 820 - 1.000“A very good wine, I have always been fond of the big one: the Pichon Comptesse. Good struc-ture, starting to show a little com-plexity, though the Reserve La Comptesse, the second wine has always been more available. Goes down easily 86/100

4663châTeau mouTon RoThSchIld 1986Pauillac, 1er Cru ClasséStored in private cellar12 bts (owc, lid broken)48.000 - 60.000EUR 4.500 - 5.500“In the beginning (1990-2002) beautifully concentrated but a bit of a dry finish. With the years the fruit has retreated a little, the wine has closed itself in and the fine tannins have taken over. I believe that we will have to wait another 10 /15 period of greatness. In the beginning 98/100, now 92/100, perhaps in the future it will be back to 98/100

4715châTeau léoVIlle-laS caSeS 1982St-julien, 2ème Cru Classé4 bts12.000 - 16.000EUR 1.100 - 1.450“A highly regarded wine, that I have never really understood. Well balanced, classic but lacks a com-plexity and for this kind of mo-ney, what one would call charm. 92/100

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Terra AndinaReserva Carmenère

Alkoholhalt 14%

Art nr 6006

Pris 79:- kronor

Läs mer på www. amka.se

Att börja dricka i tidig ålder ökar risken för alkoholproblem

Nytt VinI alla butiker från

1 Januari

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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a famous castle in pouilly château du nozet

PHOTO: ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR

>>>

IT WAS NAMELY then that the Chateau du Nozet was purchased by the Comte Lafond and the Ladoucette family, who started to rebuild it here in the Pouilly-sur-Loire. But it wasn’t until 1875 that it attained its pre-sent appearance. The castle is surrounded by its own history. Among-st other things, legend has it that Pouilly Fumé was Napoleon’s favorite wine.

That might or might not be true, but today Baron de L is well known all over the world for its Special Vintage which is made from a blend of the best old Sauvignon Blanc vintages.

TODAY THE CHATEAU is run by Baron Patrick de LaTourette (5th genera-tion) who carefully car-ries on the tradition he has inherited from his forefathers.Another inheritance is the skillful Joel André who has worked here for 34 years. Today his duties also consist of traveling around the world to other vineyards owned

by Baron Ladoucette.In this way they gua-

ranty the quality of the production and that the wines are develo-ped according to plan.

THE NEW WINERY was built in 1989. The tanks are built into the walls and are clad on the inside in … yes, you guessed it - glass. Everything is done so that the wine is not influenced in any way other than that prescri-bed by Mr. André.

It is an impressive facility which pu-rely architectonically matches the color and shape of the adjacent castle.

GUILLAUMé DE VERDUN

and Mme Valerié Rol-dan show us around and explain about the pursuit of excellence and the development

of the Sauvignon Blanc, which is the linchpin in wi-nes from the de Ladoucette, and how they develop and implement new cloning of the Sauvignon Blanc every year.

aS we coaST SlowlY into the castle courtyard, the first thing we see is the Swedish flag. An unusual sight hereabouts. This is a courtesy extended to visitors from other countries, that stretches back perhaps to the 18th century.

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Apart from the Baron de L, they also produce La Poussie Blanc and the Vallombrosa Grand Vin Rouge. To a dessert like apple pie, they recommend Nectar Marc Brédif, 2003 for example. What would a top French producer be without his own champagne? So naturally there is the Champagne Comtessa Lafond Blanc de Blanc to be found amongst the others on the table. Apart from these there are naturally

chassis, calvados, (containing a glass apple in the bottom of the bottle) and a Cognac in a wooden box made from expensive wood. Very pleasing on the eye.

OUR jOURNEY then continued on to Sancerre, where Baron Patrick de Ladoucette also owns vineyards with the best soil and the best con-ditions for creating first class wi-nes. The landscape reminds you of

a huge amphitheater, with the sun shining in the right direction, a good elevation and an excellent cli-mate. Here, Sancerre Comte Lafond Grand Cuveé (white) and Sancerre Comte Lafond Grand Cuveé (red ) are produced amongst others.

IF YOU’RE INTERESTED, read more on www.chateaudeladucette.@wana-doo.frInfo at your nearest off-license

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Alkohol är beroendeframkallande.

www.arvidnordquist.se

Svenskar dricker mest Roodeberg iVärlden. Inte så konstigt att KWV valtatt lansera den vita motsvarigheten justhär!

Roodeberg White är liksom sitt röda sto-rasyskon byggt i en väldigt klassisk stramstil, druvorna som ingår i blenden ärbland andra Chenin Blanc ochChardonnay som fått en lätt touch avfransk ek.

“BÄSTA KÖP!”

Allt om Vin

KWV ROODEBERG WHITE 2007 Art.nr: : 32155 Alk. 13,5% Pris: 79 kr

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

26

when medical care becomes health care

through wine productionPHOTO: ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR

The JulIuS hoSpITal lies in Wurzburg and is actu-ally a research foundation for medical care and care of the elderly. Actually the foundation itself is not particularly young. In 1576 julius Echter allowed the research to begin and in 1582 the University of Wurzburg was established. Apart from that there was a huge parcel of land to farm, thereby assuring the future the julius Founda-tion through generous donations.THE DEVELOPMENT of the facility has continued right up to the pre-sent time, with a small interrup-tion during the war followed for rebuilding. Naturally the original gift didn’t include everything we see happening today. But if you take a closer look at some of the surviving old pictures on the walls and the great casks in the 250 me-ter long cellar you can see how the infirm, injured and aged made their way into the place, receive medical treatment and more to the point, fine wine made from the Sylvaner grape. (The easily recog-

>>>

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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nizable bottles are always present) Explaining perhaps why in the last painting the patients are dancing for joy during what remains of their lives.

THE FOUNDATION receives no mo-netary support from the commu-nity, but patients in need may be admitted today with their normal sickness insurance. The operation is selfsupporting with a good mar-gin and has even expanded during recent years.

Nowadays the old autopsy thea-ter is used for private parties, con-ferences, weddings and suchlike.In this way it contributes to its own running costs.

ONE HAS to wonder what is so spe-cial about the Julius Hospital? - Well about 100% of the turn-over from the wine production and sales goes to the foundation. You could say that in this way they create an extra bonus that in turn creates better conditions for the patient and elderly care here in Wurzburg. Care for the sick becomes health care through wine production. NATURALLY THE WHOLE of the pro-perty doesn’t consist only of wine cultivation. Approximately 1000 hectares is farmland, 3500 hectares are forest and a whole 172 hecta-res is made up of wine cultivation.

Planted on the slopes in a south-erly direction with outstanding conditions for wine production, with amongst other things the ri-ver that flows sedately through the town bringing with it a certain moistness in the adequately warm climate, perfect for example Sylva-ner and of course Riesling.

IN RECENT TIMES they have bottled the selected vintages in the tradi-tional Bourgogne flasks so as to manage the logistics with sales and transport opportunities. Of course there are even today’s wines bottled in the older bottles.

SINCE THE YEAR 2006, the wines are bottled with screw tops. “Everyth-ing to safeguard the quality of the wine,” wine maker Benedikt Then, of the Juliusspital points out to us. Their 172 hectares vineyard makes them one of Germany’s biggest wine producers. IT’S A GOOD FEELING to know that when I buy a bottle of wine from the Juliusspital that I am contri-buting to financing the recupera-tion of the patients, while creating more pleasant twilight years for the senior citizens who live here per-manently in the heartland of what we now call Europe.

Read more at www.juliusspital.de

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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Terra AndinaReserva Carmenère

Alkoholhalt 14%

Art nr 6006

Pris 79:- kronor

Läs mer på www. amka.se

Att börja dricka i tidig ålder ökar risken för alkoholproblem

Nytt VinI alla butiker från

1 Januari

VÅRMODENy design - Ny årgång

Freixenet Nordic AB08-612 92 80www.freixenet.se

Art Nr: 2751-08Pris: 195:-

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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Exciting news at the systembolaget

number name price SBReds:6533-01 Windsor Three Vines Red 99 SEK SB bas95066 Argolas Turriga 2004 398 SEK SB95067 Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat Stella 2005 389 SEK SB75931 Tommaso Bussola Valpolicella Classico Supeeriore 250 SEK SB best95052 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Vigneto Alto 2004 739 SEK SB75932 Tommaso Bussola Lérrante 2004 330 SEK SB best95068 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella 2004 250 SEK SB75626-01 Quelén 2006 549 SEK SB best75628-01 Peréz Cruz Syrah 2006 145 SEK SB best75629-01 Peréz Cruz Carménere 2007 129 SEK SB best75630-01 Peréz Crus Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 89 SEK SB best75627-01 Bembibre 2005 285 SEK SB best75659-01 Exaltos 2005 195 SEK SB best95188 Lagar de Bouza 109 SEK SB75305-01 Wallin Shilraz 2007 239 SEK SB best75303-01 Wallin Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 239 SEK SB best75302-01 Wallin Grenache 2007 239 SEK SB best75301-01 Wallin Syrah 2006 239 SEK SN best75981-01 Contrada Salvarenza Soave Classico 2006 209 SEK SB best95226-01 Villa Cafaggio Cortaccio 2004 399 SEK SB exkl tillf95227-01 Villa Cafaggio San Martino 2004 399 SEK SB exkl tillf75320-01 Tamburlaine Orange Reserve Syrah 2006 ekol. 135 SEK SB75732-01 L`Lcole No 41 Washington Col. Valley Merlot 05 199 SEK SB75744-01 L´Ecole No 41 Washing. Pepp. Bridge Vy Apogee 05 369 SEK SB75657-01 Sterling Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 05 179 SEK SB75478-01 Sokol Blosser Oregon Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 06 ek. 239 SEK SB white:95108 Maison des Princes Pouilly Fimé 2007 140 SEK SB bas96723-01 Esherndorfer Lump Silvaner GG 2007 juliusspital 239 SEK SB tillf exkl96783-01 Randersackerer Pfülben Riesling GG 2007juliusspital 249 SEK SB tillf exkl96795-01 Spreitzer Lenchen Rosengarten Trocken 2007 229 SEK SB tillf exkl96839-01 Gimmeldinger BiengartenRiesling Spätl.Trock.2007 189 SEK SB tillf exkl96849-01 Christmann IDIG Riesling GG 2007 339 SEK SB tillf exkl96628-01 Gunderloch Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesl. Trock. 2007 339 SEK SB tillf exkl95108-01 Pouilly Fumé Maison Princes 2007 140 SEK SB tillf7301401 Touraine Savignon Blanc 2007 109 SEK SB från 1.675321-01 Tamburlaine Orange Reserve Chardonnay eko 07 119 SEK SB73009-01 K Vintners & Charles Smith Washington Riesl. 06 109 SEK SB fr 1 juni73032-01 K Vintners & Charles Smith Washington Chard. 06 99 SEK SB73013-01 Guru Portugal Douro 2006 249 SEK SB

Rose:75785 Château LÁrnaude Rosé Cuvée Therese 2008 115 SEK SB best95126 Saturnino Rosato Nergroamaro 69 SEK SB bas95198 Castello di Ama Rosato 139 SEK SB95171-01 Barolo Vigna La Rosa 2004 485 SEK SB tillf exkl

champagne:7417 Champagne Saint Gall Rosé 269 SEK SB77086-01 Champagne de Saint Gall Premier Cru B de B Brut 279 SEK SB

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“Rekommenderas”Bengt-Göran Kronstam

* Argiolas Perdera från Sardinien görs av druvan Monica.

“Mer än prisvärt”Magnus Waern

Hej hejMonica!

Hej på digMonica!*

Pris: 85 kr Artnr: 6026 13,5% vol

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with BKWineIn BoRdeaux you find world famous châteaux and world famous wines but also a lot of new exciting initiatives (less famous but maybe more important for the future of Bordeaux!) and young ent-husiastic wine makers. On this trip we will visit both some big, famous Grand Cru Classé-châteaux and smaller ones that are less known, but very quality consci-ous. We will visit the well-known regions like Médoc and Saint-Emilion, but also rising-stars among the regions, like En-tre-deux-Mers and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux. We will learn about viticulture and vinification and after this trip you will know quite a lot about what’s going on in Bordeaux at the moment.

In all The chaTeaux we will get private tastings together with the people who are involved in the wine making and who are delighted to share with us their passion for fine wine. We will stay four nights in the city of Bordeaux, an elegant and very beautiful city of just over half a million people.

BKWine offers you Two poSSIBIlITIeS to go to Bordeaux this yearOctober 14 – 18, 2009November 11 – 15, 2009

Wine tour to Bordeaux

For more information please contact info@bkwine.com or visit www.bkwine.com

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Sann Gastronomi!

>> Pilsner UrquellArt nr: 1566 Alk: 4,4%Pris 33 cl flaska: 14,40:-Pris 50 cl burk: 16,90:-

Tillhör du dem som oftast väljer vin att ackompanjera maten? Då kan det vara hög tid att utforska hur ett riktigt bra öl kan bidra till en stor gastronomisk upplevelse.

Pilsner Urquells smak är medelfyllig och brödig med ren friskhet, fin humlebeska och en eftersmak med en liten nötighet. Det här är ett riktigt bra matöl som förhöjer många rätter.

För dig som vill kliva in ordentligt och botanisera kring kombinationen mat och öl har vi tagit fram en ölgastronomibok full av spännande smakupplevelser. Maila oss på info@bibendum.se så skickar vi dig en bok utan kostnad.

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young and successfulINTERVIEW WITH FREDRIK BENGTSSON

How did you get into the wine business?I come from a Hotel family, and got to be keen on the Hotel branch at quite an early age. I also reali-zed quite early on that the level of knowledge about wine was quite low. That’s why I began my stu-dies at the Restaurant Academy in Stockholm as a sommelier. I combi-ned that with working in a vineyard in Bordeaux. After I completed my studies I started to work in Erik’s concern. I became restaurant mana-ger for both Rìche and the Theater Bar. I then took over as managing director for Domestic Import.

What happened after that?Then it was down to Australia. Ade-laide, where I worked as a cellar hand, then with wine making in Nepenthe. After my year in Oz I returned to Stockholm in the Au-tumn of 2005. We opened Mondo Wines together with the founders of Prime Wine.

What was the thinking behind Mondo Wine?The idea was that we would be more of a restaurant fine wine orientated outfit. More New World orientated. We would rather take in three wines from a small produ-cer, than one wine from a big one. We are looking for producers that think bio dynamically. It is also im-portant for us to like the way they make their wine. Because I have an extensive network in Australia, a lot of our wines come from there. In the

recent past we have invested a lot in Austria, which has made us into the leading importer of Austrian wines.

Your Visions? We don’t want to be traditional. We feel that we know what we’re doing. You have to see wine as a foodstuff and treat it as such. Which means removing some of the dra-matics that surround it.

How are your finances?The foundations are based upon good solid sales figures from the SystemBolaget (the Swedish state owned off-licences) The succes-ses we’ve enjoyed are down to the straight dialogue that exists between the wine producer and the process.We sell about 80% through the Sys-temBolaget and 20% through res-taurants. We work a lot with train-

ing in the restaurants and taverns. We feel that it’s working very well. The Austrian Wine events that we arranged last year were a great suc-cess, so we’re going to do follow-ups in Gothenburg this year What will you be doing in 10 years?Continuing developing what I’m doing today. n

facTS:Fact Sheet: Fredrik Bengtsson MD/Partner in Mondo Wine A subsidiary of the Prime Wine GroupBorn: SkövdeRaised in Höllviken, Skåne, South-ern Sweden.Studied Economics

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>>>

wine and game EDITOR AND PUBLISHER OF THE NEWS LETTER ALCOHOL UPDATE.

BanG, BanG, (reload) Bang! Sometimes the Elks are difficult to bring down when the old adrenalin’s pumping. But, down he is, and eventually he will be prepared and ser-ved up at a fine dinner together with the appropriate drinks. It’s all about choosing the right one. More importantly however, it’s more important to chose right one to go with wild boar or venison which have a more pronounced gamey taste than elk. One can of chose something a little lighter to accompany late summer duck, phea-sant or grouse.

I RECENTLY WENT to a very pleasant wine tasting at the Opera Terrace in Stockholm. The bill of fare was Californian wines that were up for tasting. This time I decided to con-centrate upon finding a really good American wine to go with the game from the Swedish forests. No it’s not the hunting season right now, but perhaps these few lines might as an inspiration in the Autumn. Food and wine belong together. So for myself as a hunter I think it would be a shame not to combine a fine piece of elk with a wine of similar caliber (no pun intended)

THE HUNTING SEASON in Sweden usually begins with the deer bucks in the middle of August. He might taste a little acrid because of the ma-ting season, so I actually prefer to prepare a younger animal. A couple of days later the duck season begins, followed by the elk season in the beginning of Septem-ber up in northern Sweden. This spreads then further south during the middle of September.Wild boar maybe hunted all year round except for sows who are car-rying. But an old boar can be quite rancid to the taste, so don’t hunt him down for his meat, but rather as a trophy. A little later into the

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Autumn I would shoot a young pig. Very nice indeed.

To the venison I would have liked to drink a West (Cabernet Sauvig-non) from 2003 or 2004. Both of them come from a Swedish family concern in California and their wi-nes are on the SystemBolagets order sheets. They cost around 300 Swe-dish crowns but I think they are well worth the price.

OTHERWISE TRY a Syrah or Zinfandel to a filet of venison. For example I believe a Vina Robles Signature (pe-tit Verdot/Syrah) from 2004 would do the trick. It costs about 400 Swe-dish crowns, but it’s marvelous. Ca-parison Estate Wines (Merlot) 2005 or the Syrah from 2006 would also fit the bill.

They are in the mean time more difficult to get hold off, but there are some around in some restaurants.A surefire series that goes well with venison, wild boar and elk are defi-nitely the 2006, Lodi 2005, Sono-ma 2005 and the Barrica 2006.The Vintners Blend is available on the SystemBolaget´s normal stock lists, otherwise all of the others can be obtained through the order se-lection.

They cost between 100 to 350 Swedish crowns a bottle. An out-standing series for game.

Elk, or Capital deer? Well per-haps a Tensley Wines (Syrah) 2006.They´re about 300 Swedish crowns a bottle. I’ve already mentioned the Ravenswood wines, otherwise there’s a fine Syrah from Tablas Creek Vineyards 2005 which can also be yours for 300 crowns.

Wild Boar is the strongest tasting

meat and should be well roasted to taking the risk of trichinosis into consideration. That’s why an Aaron or something similar is needed here. So if you’re rummaging around in California, then I would say a Zin-fandel from Seghesio- either the So-noma County 2007 or the Sonoma County Old Vine from 2004 would do admirably. It is a powerful wine that will hold its own against the dazzling game. The cost is around 200 respectively 350 crowns a bottle.

POULTRY!, WELL I COULD go on and on about this. In Sweden I love to hunt game birds more than anyth-ing else. There´s nothing finer than to be standing in a clump of reeds waiting for a duck drive or up in the hills with dog to bring down a few grouse.

The Californian tasting offered many fine Pinot Noir wines. The Calera Central Coast 2007 (about 250 crowns) was one that would have been outstanding with poultry. The Irony 2006 (125 crowns) was

another. Both of them are so full of character, that one might even try them to venison or elk.

THERE´S ANOTHER pair of fine Pinot Noir that one can fantasize about while your waiting for the plunder, and they are the Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander from 2005 or the Duckhorn Goldeneye Anderson Valley 2006.

And finally a Zinfandel that would go well with game birds and that is the Ironstone Reserve Old Vine 2007.

Normally one wouldn’t combine game with white wine but I would dare to drink a Calera Central Coast (Chardonnay) tinged with oak with wild duck for a couple of hundred crowns a bottle.

THIS WAS jUST a small selection of all the fine things that were presented. It must be said that not all reds go well with game. But the Califor-nian vineyards contain much that would be quite appropriate to the Swedish fauna when it arrives at the dinner table. Unfortunately it isn’t all that easy to get hold of many of the wines that I have highlighted. Some individual ones are at best to be found in the regular assortment, otherwise go to the SystemBola-gets wine cellar in the NK house in Stockholm or use the order forms. Apart from that they cost a bit more than a normal Swede is prepared to pay for wine. We’re talking about everything from a 100 crowns up-wards. Right now I’m off hunting down these wines while I’m waiting for the real hunting season to begin.

CHRISTOPHER jARNVALL

Fine Wines very own homepage

w w w.f inewine.nu Here you’ll f ind the last 4 editions of Fine Wine in Swedish and English. All you have to do is download them to your screen, and investigate all the exciting links.

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WIN TWO RIEDEL GLASSES AND A CARAFE

Question A:Some of the best sweet wines are made from grapes that are infested with something called Botrytis cinerea.What is it?1: A little yellow spiderX: A fungus2: A bacteria

QueSTIon B:Eiswein is a special kind of wine which is pro-duced quite naturally in Germany and Austria. Why is called Einstein?1: Because it is served chilledX: Because the grapes are not harvested until they are frozen solid2: Because the wine originated in Eisenach, Germany

QueSTIon c:Riedels crystal glasses are designed to guide the wine to the correct taste bubs on the tongue that correspond to the wine being served.Where are the taste buds for sweetness situated?1: On the TipX: At the root of the tongue2: On both sides of the tongue.

Send your answers please to: tavling@clubvinuernic.se no later than 26 th june 2009

Don’t forget your name and address.

Good Luck!Fine Wine International

C O N T E S T !

Stilren kvalitet från riojaFrån april 2009 finns

Marqués de Murrieta Reserva på Systembolaget.

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our job is to read the signs of nature A CONVERSATION WITH DENIS DE LA BOURDONNAYE AT LAROCHE IN CHABLIS.

PHOTO: ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR

AS MOST PEOPLE know, we Swedes are the biggest Chablis drinkers in the world, in relation to our po-pulation. That’s why it is especially pleasant to have a chat and a tasting with Denis de la Bourdonnaye at Laroche. This is a man who at the annual blind tasting of grapes from 14 different producers who supply him with Chardonnay grapes, can tell exactly which grapes come from which growers, thanks to the diver-sity of the local soil.

“SINCE THE wine louse blight back in the 20´s, we have raised the produc-tion to 5000 hectare at the present time her in Chablis. Laroche esta-blished itself in 1850 and the 5th generation Laroche have a 100 hec-tares cultivated. In 1970 we moved the office into the cloister building, which two generations earlier had been the Laroche home.

Today you can still se the old wine presses, actual built into the struc-ture itself, which once was and still

As one appRoacheS the village of Chablis in a car, you have ease your foot off of accelerator in good time. Otherwise there’s a risk that you’ll get to see the village in your rear view mirror.Even if the village Chablis is tiny, it is steeped in history. Building began in the 10th century, as usual with monks doing the digging and planting the vines. For those of you that haven’t had the pleasure in visiting Chablis it is a prosperous little place with a village square, a church and fantastically skillful wine producers.

>>>

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is where we have our great annual wine festivals and where all the par-ticipants wear traditional clothing.

What’s the secret of your success?- One of them is that we don’t use any sulphides in our wines because we add co2 throughout the entire production. Something that beco-mes apparent the day after a good dinner, where one´s head feels just as fresh as the day before.

Is the majority of your production consumed here in France.

“A whole 80% of our manufacture goes for export.Naturally Chablis is consumed here in France initially, tightly followed by Canada and then Scandinavia.

“Does one have to a per fectionist to cope with your job?”“Organization is essential. It’s all about logistics.

Everything from the transportation from the vineyards right up when the grapes end up in the designated tank. We would never be able to ex-pand our knowledge and therewith our quality without it.Sometimes we only have a number of hours to make an important de-cision.

“ You mentioned that top quality is about logistics.Could you expand on that a little for us?”“Well, like I said, we have to be able to read the signs of nature. For my-self, everything is about;

STRUCTURE - FRUIT - BODY. Then to try and reach a kind of har-mony between them. When that is tried and tested, I then blend them into perfect wines like for instance GRAND Cru’s and PREMIÈR Cru’s from the contents of various tanks.

To assure the quality of our wines, we started using screw tops back in 2002. We know the quality of the wines that we put into the bottles and we don’t want to use anything that we don’t have control over. That’s why there is precisely 36mm of air between the cork and the wine in every bottle.

Which allows our Grand Cru to be laid down for up to 10 years. Which is quite unusual for a white wine today.

You might already have noticed that Denis de la Bourdonnaye is not a person who leaves anything to chance. For that we thank him, especially every time we unscrew a bottle of his wine back home in Sweden.

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PAUL DOLAN delivered a very interes-ting lecture in conjunction with the tasting that included :Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel “Peachy Canyon Westside Zinfan-del 2006”, Paso Robles, Paul Dolan Vineyards Zinfandel 2006, Mendo-chino Rubicon Estate Edizione Pen-nino Zinfandel 2006, Napa E&J Gallo Frei Ranch Zinfandel 2003, Sonoma and Seghesio Family Vine-yards Old Vine Zinfandel 2006Sonoma.

CAMILLE SEGHESIO from Seghesio Vineyards in California was also at the tasting in person. She has been working formaly with a sustainable commitment since 2003. Naturally with generations of wine growers behind her, who have always had the greatest consi-deration for the soil that they have cultivated. Sustainability is not a static situation for Camille, and she explains how they at Seghesio are constantly implementing new pro-cesses to retain nature’s resources.

Paul Dolan on the other hand spoke of “Life Energy”, that is to say the vitality that is removed from the soil at harvest time. Another interesting turn of phrase of his is “ Biodyna-mic is the ultimate expression of terroir”. What does he mean then

by “Biodynamic”? Well he sees it as a self-regulating arrangement. He sees the soil as an organism- a net-work of basic elements and a mix-ture of cultures like olives- flowers- woodlands and fauna. Everything contributing to the selfregulating arrangement.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE between Organically grown grapes and Or-ganic? Both of them are entitled to be certified as organically grown grapes. In both cases they are cul-tivated by a certified organic wine producer and that an updating of the production method is carried out by an impartial body every third year. But then comes the great dif-ference- no sulfides are allowed with the organics.

IT APPEARS that Paul Dolan has gone as far as is possible with his own wi-nes. He talks about earth friendly packaging. What does that mean? - Only 100% recycled paper is used together Soya and water based prin-

california played host to a well attended wine

taster in Stockholm The aSSoRTmenT of wines from California gets bigger and more inte-resting for every year that passes. In spite of the dollar exchange rate. This time on the agenda we had a special zinfandel tasting, to em-phasize the sustainability in California or as Paul Dolan put it “green wine”. On his last appearance in Copenhagen a couple of years ago, he told us about The bio dynamic cultivation of Californian wines.Today, two years later it has more than doubled in volume. The con-sumers, women in particular are enquiring more and more about environmentally friendly wines in the stores

>>>

CAMILLE SEGHESIO FRåN SEGHESIO VINEYARDS I KALIFORNIEN

PAUL DOLAN

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ting ink. That even includes the cartons.

THE INTEREST in California wines and environmentally adapted pro-duction in particular in constantly increasing. We look forward to see-ing him again in a couple of years, to be able to follow this exciting development closely.

Världspremiär för En Värld av Vin på nätetAll världens vinländer, regioner, viner och producenter i en dator nära dig. Registrera dig gratis på www.envarldavvin.se. Välkommen hälsar Mikael Mölstad.

Fine Wines very own homepage

w w w.f inewine.nu

Here you’ll f ind the last 4 editions of Fine Wine in Swedish and

English. All you have to do is download them to your screen, and

investigate all the exciting links.

Welcome to Fine Wine -Your online Wine Magazine.

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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ONE PRODUCT from back then still remains in our and the SystemBolaget´s assortment- na-mely the Beaujolais, produced by the Dufouleur Family and which was re-christened to Beaujolais Royal in 1959. We were even allo-wed the epithet By Royal Appoint-ment. Even though king Gustav the 6th Adolf wasn’t a particularly big wine consumer. Of course the court always wanted to offer a fine qua-lity wine to its guests. Then as now.

DURING THE 70`S Arvid Nordquist HAB became more of a spirits importer than a wine agent. Or more correctly it was Nordman & Co as the company was known from 1955 that did it. During that

same year we managed to launch Perquita, which was the first Por-tuguese wine in the SystemBolaget (State owned off licences)

AFTER GAINING entrance to the EU in 1994 the IDN (International Distilleries and Vintners) wanted to buy Nordman & Co out. When that didn’t work, they bought Tan-ner & Son instead and moved all of their brands over to them.

After that began a new focus for Arvid Nordquist HAB again a new strategy for wine. Jörn Ek, Wilhelm Schultz and Sara Norell wanted to invest predominantly in Family owned producers.

AFTER THE South African boycott

came to an end in 1993, KWV came into the product portfolio.The following year even Roodeberg came to Arvid Nordquist HAB, to be exact the 24th April. The same day that Nelson Mandela was freed from prison.

“IN 1997 we took over Bollinger (which at that time held the 13th place as the most sold Champagne in Sweden) now holding 2nd pla-ce,” Jörn continues.Almost at the same time we began building up the brand name Bengt Fritiofsson. Everything happened all at once back then.

TODAY KWV is our largest volume supplier and Roodeberg is our big-

arvid nordquist celebrates 125 years

as a wine importer to the swedish market

INTERVIEW WITH JöRN EK.

haTS off foR Arvid Nordquist HAB, who are celebrating their 125th jubilee this year. A long time for an agent and importer you might think - “They actually imported wine right from the beginning” jörn Ek tells us enthusiastically.” “just think, 1884, then the Grocer’s shop just grew as the assortment expanded. But in 1919 the monopoly was installed

as everybody knows, so the wine import business was put temporarily out of action. Happily the ration book was done away with in 1955 and under the leadership of Bengt Nordquist wine importing was resumed.

>>>

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gest seller. The Roodeberg Boxes were the very first out onto the Swedish market, while 47% of the total production is sold in Sweden today.

NOT CONTENTED to rest upon their

laurels, Arvid Norquist also laun-ched Roodeberg onto the Nordic markets (Finland-Norway- Den-mark since 2008)Which resulted in Scandinavia becoming Roodeberg´s largest ex-port market.

HOW WAS all this possible? Well, thanks to a good collaboration it has become a very lucrative affair for all of the parties involved.

Read more about the Jubilee at www.arvidnordquist.se

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