ADVENTURES IN WORLD WIDE BOATING HOLIDAYS

2015

MARINER TRAVELLER

NEWS FROM THE 2014 GULET SHOW

EAST MEETS WEST

ISSUE 2

Croatia First Regatta

A ONE-DESIGN REGATTA FEATURING THE BENETEAU FIRST 45

BE FIRST!13-20 JUNE 2015

ASIA PACIFICLauren WhiteMariner Boating HolidaysTel: +61 2 9966 1244E-Mail: lauren@marinerboating.com.auAddress: 802/83 Mount StreetNorth Sydney NSW 2060AUSTRALIA

A ONE-DESIGN REGATTA FEATURING THE BENETEAU FIRST 45EUROPEInga TomaseviUltra SailingTel: +385 (0)21/398 578E-Mail: booking@ultra-sailing.hrAddress: Uvala baluni 6A21000 SplitCROATIA

www.croatiafirstregatta.com

MARINER BOATING HOLIDAYS 2015

Cover Shot: Poppies on the Island of Serifos, Greece

Photographer: Maggie Joyce

Maggie joins photographer Tim Wheeler and a Fairfax photographer and hosts the Greek Island Photo Odyssey in 2015

CONTENTS

2015 Yacht Rally Calendar 1

SPECIAL FEATURE:

East Meets West 2

DOUBLE SPREAD:

Rally Travellers, this ones for you! 3-4

Gulet in Focus 5-6

Xerxes’ Bridge with Peter Williams 7

Oh! Editor 8

BACK PAGE

What can we do to help?

Dream of an adventure on the water...

4 MARINER BOATING HOLIDAYS 2015

THE 2015

SEASONYACHT RALLY

GALLIPOLI YACHT RALLYCommemorate the 100 year anniversary of the ANZAC landing 23 APRIL to 10 MAY

AEGEAN YACHT RALLYGreek Dodecanese Islands and Turkey 8 MAY to 23 MAY

HANSE 445 CROATIA YACHT RALLYVenture north to Zadar through the Kornati National Park 12 JUNE to 27 JUNE

THE ITALIAN JOB The stunning Amalfi Coast 26 JUNE to 11 JULY

THE BONIFACIO YACHT RALLY Italian Sardinia meets French Corsica 28 AUGUST to 12 SEPT

THE GREEK ISLAND PHOTO ODYSSEY Sail with a professional photographer through the Cyclades Islands 11 SEPT to 26 SEPT

SAIL TAHITI YACHT RALLY Tahiti’s Leeward Islands 26 SEPT to 10 OCT

www.marinerboating.cominfo@marinerboating.com.au1300 131 724

MARINER BOATING HOLIDAYS 2015 2

We embark on an intriguing journey when we sail through Greece and Turkey. These countries are places of mysticism, history, stark beauty, conflict and occupation. Often referred to as cradles of civilisation, these places are today both modern and ancient, rubbing shoulders, and we sail a tantilising line between the two as we follow our course for the Aegean Yacht Rally.

Our hosts, Trevor and Maggie have been coming to this par t of the world since the 1970’s and consider it a second home – evident in the number of friends we meet along the track. The yacht rally begins in Kusadasi in Turkey, where the ancient city of Ephesus and our local guide Arkan, wait for us. This city respired occupation; first Greek and then Roman until the harbour silted up and became home to droves of pestilent mosquitoes. Now she retires on the hill, a testament to her par t in the human story. After an early morning tour we escape the heat, and land, and board our yacht that has been delivered to Kusadasi as par t of rally fleet.

The first rally leg is a cruise to the por t of Pythagorion on the island of Samos, just off the Turkish Coast, where Christos, “Minister for Everything”, clears us through Greek customs and immigration. Yes, this was the home town of the philosopher and mathematician, Pythagoras, but he left here early in his life to escape its tyrannical ruler. There is no sign of this tyranny when we reverse our 49ft Jeanneau ‘Volante’ into the town quay, and find a string of tavernas conveniently located right across the road.

We spend a full day on Samos, enjoying spectacular late spring weather before racing south to Arki in rain and wind, on the nose (southerly) all the way. Where is the famous Meltemi (nor therly) we ask? What happened to that benign Mediterranean weather? Still, this is the only race we win on handicap, probably because in the cold and the rain no one is anxious to relieve our skipper on the helm.

There is a step across to Patmos on a flat ink-blue sea and another change of pace and weather – the sun has returned. Patmos is the spiritual headquar ters of the Greek Orthodox Church and in the summer as many as five cruise ships a day, each carrying 3,000 people slide into the harbour for the perfunctory four-hour-gallop to the 11th Century monastery and the church of St John the Divine. We plunder the shops, take a motorcycle to Lampi Bay and dine at the water’s edge. We gossip about whether or not St John wrote the Apocolypse, Book of Revelation from a cave here.

Our world changes again as Race 3 takes us back into Turkey and we enter Bodrum Harbour, home to hundreds of traditional Turkish gulets and site of a well preserved for tress dating from the Crusader times, that stands sentinel over the harbour. We’re told 2 nights here are a must, and they’re not wrong. The clubs are a thumping good contrast to the deser ted bays we just left behind in the Dodecanese. We take in the up-and-coming gastronomic scene, experience a ‘Haman’ (Turkish bath) for the first time, and spend a few Turkish Lira at the bazaar : “Genuine

fake watches for your genuine fake friends”!

The rally group then move east in Turkish waters and the landscapes sliding by the yacht slowly transform from the arid rockiness of the Dodecanese to forested hillsides, almost European in appearance.This is the south west corner of Anatolia, indented with fjords and spiked with steep-sided peninsulas. We race on to Knidos, Palmut and Datça and revel in the subtle transition from Greek to Turkish cuisine; not such a big leap, a similar treatment of lamb and fish, but more vegetable varieties here, chilli peppers and a greater use of Asian spices like cardamom, cumin and cinnamon.

The promised Meltemi wind arrives with a norwesterly blowing at 12-15 knots and we set off in Race Four to an anchorage called Atabol in the Hisaronou Gulf, or the Gulf of Symi as the Greeks call it. Now there are two points separating the top three yachts with another two yachts still in the hunt for placings. The fleet tie up to a jetty with moorings and another great meal is wheeled out by the chef-de-maison. Next door there is a yard building 30 m gulets; all timber, fully hand-crafted and with beautiful lines.

Next day we race to Bozuk Bükü, an ancient por t dating back to 400bc and situated in a spectacular fjord, the entrance dominated by an ancient citadel. Tied to a rickety jetty, we are besieged by several Turkish girls in dinghies filled with wonderfully embroidered fabrics, sarongs, slippers, and other harem necessities. We buy with abandon, caught in the moment by the colour bustling on the breeze.

The final race takes par t in the bay of Marmaris, everyone’s last chance to secure the final points in the series. Reluctantly, we hand over Volante at the char ter base in Marmaris and climb on the bus for the trip to the hotel. After each race en route we enjoyed dinner arranged by our hosts, but the final night presentation in Marmaris tops them all. On a whim the group decide on a “Sultan” theme and draped, be-crowned and -jeweled we fling ourselves out into a night of Turkish music and belly dancing.

The richness and diversity of experience waiting to catch your stern line in this par t of the world is incredible. The rally experience is an adventure that enabled us to intimately explore the Turkish coastline and Dodecanese Islands; the people, culture and history. We anchored in deser ted bays we had never heard of, danced in restaurants, tied to quays in the middle of town and raced on luxury char ter yachts. We were guided by hosts who shared their local knowledge and encouraged us to feel free to explore whenever the impulse took us.

Many thanks to John Brooks for his contribution to this article.

http://www.marinerboating.com/tour/2015-aegean-yacht-rally

EAST MEETS WEST

3 MARINER BOATING HOLIDAYS 2015

THIS ONE’S FOR Rally Travellers

MARINER BOATING HOLIDAYS 2015 4Sail in company explore on your own...

THIS ONE’S FOR Rally Travellers

5 MARINER BOATING HOLIDAYS 2015

Gulet in FOCUS

Traditionally, gulets were used for trade and fishing along the coast of Turkey. Today, these beautiful, wooden, skilfully crafted and crewed vessels are used for charter, and what better place to cruise on a gulet than in Turkey - because, quite frankly, it is one of the only charter destinations where it is still possible to get a great deal on luxury. I’m often asked what to expect from a gulet cruise, it’s a tough question because it’s can be so many things. Think of an inspira-tional adventure, it is relaxation, history, a family holiday, roman-tic holiday or pretty much any other holiday that exists on the water! Esma Sultan is a luxurious and elegant charter vessel, first released into Turkey in 2008. She is a beautiful blend of classic lines, expanse areas and rich furnishings. When I first stepped foot on her I was met with the feeling of space, and lots of it. Ample deck space, ample interior, ample polished wood in diverse tones, soft leather, bright chrome and brass. There are seven cabins, all with en suites. The two light filled saloons, one forward and one aft, can both comfortably accommodate four-teen guests. I could just picture myself sitting back with a good book, listening to music on the inbuilt mP3 players, watching a movie and enjoying a great conversation over a Turkish wine (hmm yes that sounds nice) I had almost recovered from my reverie and acute aware-ness of space, when I was introduced to the master cabin. The luxurious stateroom gives new meaning to the word spacious. There is an 8 foot wide island bed on the starboard side in mahogany and cream leather, the en-suite is bigger than my side of the office! The ocean reflects in through large windows, filling the cabin with light and casting reflections off the mirrored ceil-ing....and wait a minute, what is that to my right? An enormous Jacuzzi is nestled into the port side of the cabin, assumingly to take advantage of the spectacular view....ohhh, here comes the reverie again. I decide I had better investigate the remaining six staterooms. There are four queen rooms, all the same size and each with its own comfortable queen size bed. The remaining two state-

Lauren White reports on Turkish Gulet - ‘Esme Sultan’

MARINER BOATING HOLIDAYS 2015 6

rooms both have a double and single bed; ideal for a family of three, a few friends or maybe a couple that likes a little extra space. All cabins have plenty of storage for luggage, they have a TV, DVD player, individually controlled air conditioning and a separate settee, there is room to relax and unwind in private...uh-oh, I am lapsing! Esma Sultan’s crew have their own private quarters and it is here that I am introduced to the six Turkish crew; a Cap-tain, Chef, Hostess and 3 deckhands. Traditionally the crew on most of these gulets have grown up on board; it’s in their blood. They take great pride in their attention to detail and I’m told people are often left speechless by the level of ser-vice these professionals provide. They are the cream of the crop. Culinary delights are plated up by ship’s own chef who is dedicated to making beautiful breakfasts and lovely lunches every day, and there is always the option to add on a dinner when dining ashore isn’t the mood of the minute. The chef ’s dishes are traditional Turkish mezzes, contemporary main courses, decadent desserts and an array of beverages. When the weather is warm and the breeze is cool, these feasts are spread out in one of the three al-fresco dinning areas. The aft deck has a large dining table under the fly deck, perfect for escaping the midday sun. When I’m led up a short flight of steps to the fly bridge I start to imagine dining under the shade of the gulet’s enormous sails....ahhh. Wait, is that anoth-er dining lounge right up the front? Okay here come thoughts of relaxing on the foredeck with an afternoon cocktail, maybe some local Turkish delicacies....oh... oops.... At this point I realise that above deck there are outdoor speakers and an area designed especially for 14 cushioned sun beds, I suddenly feel an overwhelming need to lie down. The Mediterranean sun soaking into my skin and visions of lazing in the Jacuzzi on the fly bridge spring to mind unbidden. The crew tell me there is wakeboarding, water skiing, canoe-ing, fishing and snorkelling gear on board and at this point in the conversation I become lost in a single image of myself trailing behind the speedboat on a doughnut with the sun dancing sparkles off the bow waves... This amazing ship features in the 2015 Gallipoli Yacht Rally, check it out at http://www.marinerboating.com/tour/gallipoli-yacht-rally-2015 or call Laura on 02 9966 1244 for more information

YACHT RALLIES 2014

7 MARINER BOATING HOLIDAYS 2015

Xerxes, King of Persia, passed through Cannakale 2494 years ago - in 480 BC - en route to invade Greece. He built two bridges at Negara Point, four kilometres north of the town, to cross the Dardanelles from Asia to Europe. Herodotus, the Greek historian, tells us Xerxes army was 1,000,000 strong, with 100,000 horses and mules, but modern histo-rians estimate it was one tenth that size.

The bridges were swept away by a storm and Xerxes, angry that nature had conspired against him, ordered the Dardanelles punished with three hundred lashes! His men entered the strait to waist depth and whipped the water. They were ordered to shout ‘your master lays this punishment on you for injuring him!’

When the bridges were rebuilt, some 300 galleys for each were anchored side by side across the strait and attached to the shore by flax and papyrus cables. Planks were laid over the ship decks to form the bridge. To ease the crossing for the horses, dirt was laid to appear as a road and screens erected on both sides of each bridge so they would not take fright at the sight of the water.

The army took seven days to cross to Abydos on the Gallipoli shore, the soldiers on one bridge and an immense supply train on the other.

Peter Williams heads an adventure in Turkey next year see http://www.marinerboating.com/tour/gallipoli-yacht-rally-2015

XERXES’ BRIDGEwith historian and author Peter Williams

HISTORICAL TOUROF GALLIPOLI 2015

MARINER BOATING HOLIDAYS 2015 8

EDITOR’S CHOICE http://www.burmaboating.com/

Virtually unknown to the outside world, the Mergui Archipelago is located in Myanmar’s (Burma’s) remote south. There you will find an archipelago of about 800 islands. Just across from the Thai border, the archipelago opened to foreigners as recently as the late 1990s. With only a few of the 800 islands sparsely populated and a couple dozen visitors to the entire area each month, the Mergui Archipelago remains one of the planet’s most unspoilt destinations.The traditional inhabitants of the Mergui Archipelago are the Moken, a people who live off, and on, the sea. Sometimes called “sea-gypsies”, this ethnic minority group leads a traditional, semi-nomadic lifestyle, dominated by diving for sea cucumbers, fishing and bartering.

To explore this remote natural hideaway from the deck of a classic ship check out our partners http://www.burmaboating.com/ or call Lauren on 02 99661244 for more information

ROLEX SYDNEY TO HOBART - BOXING DAY CRUISEJoin Mariner Boatiing Holidays on their annual Boxing Day Cruise on board the M/V Constellation, a 32 metre luxury cruiser with 3 decks of veiwing space! Enjoy expert racing commentary by Sydney Hobart Veteran Michael Delaney and Former World Etchell Champion and Admiral

OH...EDITOR!

cup team member Peter Hemery.

Where: Mosman Bay Wharf (Bottom of Avenue Road, Mossman)When: Boxing day 26th December 2014Departure: 10:30 am Sharp- there is no provision for late comersReturn: Approximately 3:30pmIncludes: Hot and Cold buffet lunch – a cash bar will operate all dayPrice: $125 per person

Limited Spaces, First in Best DressedFor more information or to book please contact Laura on 02 9966 1244 or email

HOW CAN WE HELP?

Mariner Boating Holidays Suite 802, 83 Mount St, North Sydney NSW 2060 Australia Ph (61) 02 9966 1244 Fax (61) 02 9966 1255 Email info@marinerboating.com.au

Toll Free 1300 131 724Travel Agent Licence No. 2TA5348 TD & MJ Joyce P/L ABN 43 002 858 880

www.marinerboating.com

We would like to help you:• choose the time of year to

make a trip• avoid peak periods and high

charter rates • get the yacht you want, when

you want it• leave the crowds behind when

looking for marinas and other facilities

• choose the right yacht based on our own personal experience

• safely explore the worlds’ cruising grounds and help you plan the best itinerary

• to help you to meet helpful local people

• negotiate one-way charters, which means you have longer to spend in the ports of call along the way

• arrange pre-sail and post-sail land tours, hotel bookings and car hire and make suggestions about what to see and do.

Mariner Boating Holidays is a family owned Australian licensed travel agent based in Sydney. We have an amazing local team of travel specialists who are passionate about adventures on water. Sharing our experiences in wonderful places has been part of the Mariner Boating Hoildays adventure since the start of business in 1989.

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