Dermaplaning Manual

Pre Study

Copyright 2018 No Part of this manual should be

replicated without prior permission

Objectives

Dermaplaning is a deeply exfoliating treatment. It is achieved using a medical grade scalpel, and a skin stretching technique. This process shaves away the outter layers of the skin. This process is not uncomfortable, and it is very safe when done by a trained professional. Dermaplaning is only suitable for the face. In removing the layers of dead skin, debris, oils etc your clients can have fresh clean skin, with the added benifit of vellus hair removal. As with all beauty treatments, you must bear in mind that you should keep correct posture at all times to avoid self injury. During this course you will learn the basics of Dermaplaning and learn how to deliver the service safely and effectively.

Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning is known under a few different names: Blading, epidermal/skin levelling, microplaning, skin resurfacing. It is a non-invasive method of skin rejuvenation, which leaves the skin immeidiatley feeling softer, smoother and glowing. Dermaplaning is a safe and simple way of exfoliating the epidermis, and removing the soft vellus hair, commonly known as peach fuzz. It is thought that celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe and even Cleopatra shaved thier faces in a similar way in the name of beauty. In the modern day, Dermaplaning is loved by celebs, as it addresses the vellus hair that can impeed a smooth flawless finish in HD production, and aids in make up being applied flawlessly. Dermaplaning is a great way to exfoliate the skin without the use of chemicals. Each session removes dead skin cells, and stimulates the skin. The combination of these may help keep wrinkles in check. Dermabrasion or Microdermabrasion is where the skin is abraded down to the dermis using a sanding type of device, or zinc oxide crystals blasted at the skin. There are sometimes complications associated with dermabrasion, these can include infections and scarring. Many clients find the crystals used in microdermabrasion annoying when they fall near the eyes, ears, mouth and nose. Machines are also renowned for becomeing blocked easily. All these things do not need to be considered with Dermaplaning.

Dermaplaning

Pregnant ladies and nursing mothers can be offered the treatment, as there are no chemicals used in the process. Clients wishing to remove excess vellus hair also fall in love with this treatment.  Vellus hair can trap oil and dirt causing skin issues. Vellus hair does not grow back thicker, stronger or longer as we will discuss later. Facial care products can be better absorbed once the layers of dead skin are removed, dermaplaning is a great way to prepare the skin for chemical peels or laser Removing epidermal skin also allows products to penetrate more readily into the deeper layers. Many aestheticians recommend this treatment to prepare the skin for other procedures such as laser treatments or deep chemical peels. Dermaplaning is most often used on clients with rough, dry skin, superficial hyperpigmentation, mild acne scarring, or fine lines and wrinkles. The treatment results in a more refined, smooth, “glowing” appearance. To understand the logic, look to the boys. According to aesthetician Mary Schook, shaving provides more of a benefit for your man than simply removing scruff. “Men are mechanically exfoliating their faces each time that they shave. That's why they sometimes appear to age more slowly than women do." Dermaplaning is performed on the face only. We do not plane the eyelids, bridge of nose, or chest. Dermaplaning can be performed every 3 to 4 weeks for maintenance and proper skin exfoliation. For correction of acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles, and skin rejuvenation purposes, it may be performed at a closer interval. Dermaplaning is an excellent way to prep the skin for a chemical peel. WILL MY HAIR GROW BACK THICKER? - No!! There are hair follicles all over the body. Within the follicles there are stem cells, blood vessels, sebaceous glands and, of course, hair. The follicle lies within the second layer of the skin: the dermis. This is the living part of the hair. The outer hair – that is, the hair you can see – is actually dead. Shaving, waxing, tweezing has no bearing on how this hair grows back.

Dermaplaning

There are basically two types of hair growth on the human body. The first type is a very fine hair, soft, colorless, downy fuzz on the side of the face or for that matter anywhere on the body, called Vellus Hair. Some people find this undesirable.Vellus hair does not have a deep follicle, it grows out of a very shallow follicle with a very small dermal papilla. All our body, with the exceptions of our lips, palms and soles of our feet, is covered in vellus hair. Terminal hairs are the ones that have a well developed follicle, a papilla and pigmentation, usually coarse –but maybe thin, medium, or heavy textured. Terminal hair begins its development as the peach fuzz type, and later, has greater length than its neighbors (accelerated vellus stage), and finally begins to develop color and some degree of coarseness. At this point, the hair is of a terminal type. Terminal hair grows from the scalp, eyebrows, underarms, pubic area, and other parts of the body. Terminal hair develops from normal bodily changes, not from removal. During puberty, the increase in androgenic hormone levels causes vellus hair to be replaced with terminal hair in certain parts of the human body. Beard growth and excess body hair in males is the result of puberty, as well as pubic and underarm hair in men and women. In the course of our life there may be other reasons for the vellus hair to turn terminal too. Terminal hair never retrogresses to vellus hair, except in male pattern baldness. Generally speaking, original terminal hair always remain terminal hair. Terminal hair must be removed before dermaplanning. This can be done by waxing or threading prior to the treatment.

Client Results

Dermaplaning is painless. The sensation is rather like a stiff toothbrush being used to clean someones face. Most clients find it very relaxing. After the skin is cleansed and dried, the skin is stretched and a 10-gauge sterile blade is used at a 45 degree angle to shave off dead skin and vellus hair in short, quick strokes. There is zero downtime after dermaplaning. The treatment removes the layer of protective skin and hair, so clients must be advised to use appropriate sun screen to avoid hyperpigmentation. The treatment is very stimulating to the skin, so clients can expect to have some redness for a short time after their session.

Dermaplaning Benefits

• Removes surface dead/keratinised skin cells • Removes unwanted facial hair • Doesn’t cause any inflammation • Instant results • Skin has a nice, healthy glow • Skin feels incredibly soft and smooth • Non-traumatic method of skin rejuvenation • Improves skin tone • Can accentuate facial features and make clients look slimmer • Can be used in pregnant women who may be contraindicated to other treatments such chemical peels etc. • Does not disrupt pH balance of the skin • Make-up glides on effortlessly for a flawless finish • Improves superficial pigmentation • Allows topical treatments to be absorbed more readily into the deeper layers of the skin • Improves fine lines and wrinkle • Can help to dimiish scars • Does not caue the skin to ‘peel’: no downtime • Exfoliation treatment of choice for extremely sensitive skin, redness or rosacea, or visible facial veins • Stimulates fibroblasts - collagen and elastin • The skin starts to heal itself, immediately producing newer, healthier skin Stimulates circulation of blood and lymph flow • Enhances the natural shedding process of the skin • Stimulates new cell growth • Can help to minimise pore size • Risk of scarring is significantly less than with laser treatments • More cost effective than chemical peels or laser treatments but can command a high treatment cost

Understanding Skin Types

Understanding the four skin types: normal, dry, oily and combination   There are four basic types of healthy skin: normal, dry, oily and combination skin. Skin type is determined by genetics. The condition of our skin can, however, vary greatly according to the various internal and external factors it is subjected to. Understanding the four skin types: normal, dry, oily and combination Normal skin ‘Normal’ is a term widely used to refer to well-balanced skin. The scientific term for healthy skin is eudermic. Woman´s face with normal skin Normal skin is well balanced: neither too oily nor too dry. Dry skin ‘Dry’ is used to describe a skin type that produces less sebum than normal skin. As a result of the lack of sebum, dry skin lacks the lipids that it needs to retain moisture and build a protective shield against external influences. Woman´s face with dry skin Dry skin can feel tight and rough and look dull.

Understanding Skin Types

Oily skin ‘Oily’ is used to describe a skin type with heightened sebum production. An over production is known as seborrhea. Woman´s face with oily skin Oily skin has a glossy shine and visible pores. Combination skin Combination skin is, as the name suggests, skin that consists of a mix of skin types. Woman´s face with combination skin Skin types vary between the T-zone and the cheeks on combination skin.

NORMAL SKIN What is normal skin? ‘Normal’ is a term widely used to refer to well-balanced skin. The scientific term for well-balanced skin is eudermic. The T-zone (forehead, chin and nose) may be a bit oily, but overall sebum and moisture is balanced and the skin is neither too oily nor too dry. How to identify normal skin - Normal skin has:    fine pores    good blood circulation    a velvety, soft and smooth texture    a fresh, rosy colour uniform transparency    no blemishes     is not prone to sensitivity. As a person with normal skin ages, their skin can become dryer. Read more in age induced dryness. Woman´s face with a healthy and radiant look. A velvety, soft and smooth texture is a sign for a healthy and radiant skin. DRY SKIN What is dry skin? ‘Dry’ is used to describe a skin type that produces less sebum than normal skin. As a result of the lack of sebum, dry skin lacks the lipids that it needs to retain moisture and build a protective shield against external influences. This leads to an impaired barrier function. Dry skin (Xerosis) exists in varying degrees of severity and in different forms that are not always clearly distinguishable. Significantly more women suffer from dry skin than men and all skin gets dryer as it ages. Problems related to dry skin are a common complaint and account for 40% of visits to dermatologists. The causes of dry skin Skin moisture depends on supply of water in the deeper skin layers and on perspiration. Skin is constantly losing water via:     Perspiration: active water loss from the glands caused by heat, stress and activity.    Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL): the natural, passive way in which skin diffuses about half a litre   of water a day from the deeper skin layers.

Dry skin is caused by a lack of:   Natural moisturising factors (NMFs) - especially urea, amino acids and lactic acid – that help to bind in water.   Epidermal lipids such as ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol which are needed for a healthy skin barrier function. As a result, the skin’s barrier function can become compromised. How to identify different degrees dry skin Dry skin ranges from skin that is a little bit drier than normal, through very dry skin to extremely dry skin. The differences can normally be distinguished by: Dry skin Mildly dry skin can feel tight, brittle and rough and look dull. Skin elasticity is also low. Very dry skin If the dryness is not treated, skin may develop:    mild scaling or flakiness in patches   a rough and blotchy appearance (sometimes it appears to be prematurely aged)   a feeling of tightness   possible itchiness It is also more sensitive to irritation, redness and the risk of infection. Extremely dry skin Certain areas of the body – particularly hands, feet, elbows and knees – are prone to:   roughness   chapping with a tendency to form rhagades (cracks)   calluses   scaling   frequent itchiness Extremely dry skin is most commonly found on the elderly or on severely dehydrated hands.

OILY SKIN What is oily skin? ‘Oily’ is used to describe a skin type with heightened sebum production. An over production is known as seborrhea. The causes of oily skin A number of issues trigger the over production of sebum:    genetics    hormonal changes and imbalances    medication    stress    comedogenic cosmetics (make-up products that cause irritation) How to identify the different types of oily skin? Oily skin is characterised by:    enlarged, clearly visible pores    a glossy shine    thicker, pale skin: blood vessels may not be visible Oily skin is prone to comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and to the varying forms of acne. With mild acne, a significant number of comedones appear on the face and frequently on the neck, shoulders, back and chest too. In moderate and severe cases, papules (small bumps with no visible white or black head) and pustules (medium sized bumps with a noticeable white or yellow dot at the centre) appear and the skin becomes red and inflamed.

COMBINATION SKIN What is combination skin? In combination skin the skin types vary in the T-zone and the cheeks. The so- called T-zone can differ substantially – from a very slim zone to an extended area. Combination skin is characterised by:    an oily T-zone (forehead, chin and nose)    enlarged pores in this area perhaps with some impurities    normal to dry cheeks The causes of combination skin The oilier parts of combination skin are caused by an over production of sebum. The drier parts of combination skin are caused by a lack of sebum and a corresponding lipid deficiency.

Evaluating skin type and condition Unlike skin type, skin condition can vary greatly during the course of your life. The many internal and external factors that determine its condition include: climate and pollution, medication, stress, hereditary factors that influence the levels of sebum, sweat and natural moisturising factors that your skin produces as well as the products that you use and the skincare choices that you make. Skincare products should be selected to match skin type and address skin condition. Dermatologists and other skincare experts determine a person’s skin type and condition by measuring the following factors: Signs of ageing Our skin type can evolve during our lifetime. Those with an oily skin type in their teenage years can find their skin becoming drier post-puberty and those with a normal skin type can find their skin getting drier as they age. As all skin types age, skin loses volume and density, fine lines and wrinkles appear and changes in pigmentation can occur. Understanding and measuring these signs of ageing helps us to determine the condition of our skin. Read more in skin ageing. Skin colour Skin colour and ethnicity influences how our skin reacts to external forces such as the sun, pigmentation disorders, irritation and inflammation. Basic skin colour is determined by the density of the epidermis and the distribution of melanin. The redness of skin is also a useful measure of skin condition; it indicates how successful our circulation is and can be helpful in identifying conditions such as couperose and rosacea. Skin Sensitivity Sensitive skin is skin that is easily irritated by different factors, that are generally tolerated by well-balanced skin, such as skin care products or high and low temperatures. For some people, sensitive skin is a permanent condition, for others, sensitivity is triggered by certain internal and external factors. It occurs when skin’s natural barrier function is compromised, causing water loss and allowing penetration of irritants. Symptoms are exacerbated by factors that facial skin is most exposed to, from the sun to some ingredients in cosmetics and cleansers

Sebum and sweat production The amount of sebum produced by the sebaceous glands in skin controls the efficacy of the skin’s barrier function and, as a result, the condition of skin. The overproduction of sebum can lead to oily, acne-prone skin, while low sebum production causes dry skin. The perspiratory glands in skin produce sweat to help the body to maintain its optimum temperature. Excessive or low sweat production can influence skin condition. Woman applying skin care on her face For oily skin it is essential to follow a daily skin care routine with appropriate products. Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF’s) Naturally produced in healthy skin, NMF’s such as amino acids help to bind water into the skin, maintain its elasticity and suppleness and prevent it from becoming dehydrated. When the skin’s protective barrier is damaged it is often unable to retain these essential NMF’s so skin moisture decreases and condition is affected. Skin sensitivity Sensitive skin is skin that is easily irritated and is more reactive than normal skin. Identifying and evaluating symptoms such as redness, a rash, stinging, itching and burning help in determining skin condition.

It is important to analyse your clients skin before treatment. This will enable you toidentify any contradinications, and determine how best to treat your clients skin. A good analysis will enable you to give your client advice on their homecare routine, other treatments you may offer, and product choice. To carry out a skin analysis, you must first cleanse the skin. The skin must be free of oils and make up to do so properly. Good lighting and a magnification lamp should be used, and the client should be only slightly reclined to allow the face to fall as it would normally. The clients eyes can be covered if they find the light too bright.

Skin Analysis

Skin analysis is carried out through: Asking questions like - • How do you find your skin usually? • What are your main concerns about your skin? • What products are you currently using at home? Touch your clients skin. Have a good look at all of the areas - Forehead, Nose, Chin, Cheeks and Neck What can you determine from the following things? • comedones (blackheads) • Milia (whiteheads) • pore size • wrinkles or fine lines • broken capillaries • crepey skin • shiny oily patches • dry flaky patches • skin colour • skin age e.g. young or mature • skin texture e.g. fine or coarse Make a note of what you notice on your clients consultation form

Skin Analysis

Acne Vulgaris Acne, also known as acne vulgaris, is a long-term skin disease that occurs when hair follicles are clogged with dead skin cells and oil from the skin. It is characterized by blackheads or whiteheads, pimples, oily skin, and possible scarring Sebacous Cyst A sebaceous cyst is a small lump or bump under the skin. This type of cyst is not cancerous. They are most often found on the face, neck, upper back, and upper chest, but can occur on other sites of the body as well. Usually a sebaceous cyst grows very slowly and doesn't cause pain. Folliculitis Is a condition in which hair follicles become inflamed. It's usually caused by a bacterial or fungal infection. At first it may look like small red bumps or white-headed pimples around hair follicles — the tiny pockets from which each hair grows.

Skin Conditions Rosecea Rosacea is a common rash, found on the central part of the face, usually of a middle-aged person. A tendency to flush easily is followed by persistent redness on the cheeks, chin, forehead and nose, and by crops of small inflamed red bumps and pus spots. Conjunctvitis Conjunctivitis is an inflammation or swelling of the conjunctiva. The conjunctiva is the thin transparent layer of tissue that lines the inner surface of the eyelid and covers the white part of the eye.

Skin Conditions Impetigo Impetigo is a bacterial infection that involves the superficial skin. The most common presentation is yellowish crusts on the face, arms, or legs. Herpes/Coldsores Herpes simplex is a viral disease caused by the herpes simplex virus. Oral herpes involves the face or mouth. It may result in small blisters in groups often called cold sores or fever blisters. Fungal - Ringworm Ringworm of the Face (Tinea Faciei) Ringworm on the face outside of the beard area is called tinea faciei. On the face, ringworm is rarely ring-shaped. Characteristically, it causes red, scaly patches with indistinct edges Lice Adult lice infest hairs of the scalp, axilla, chest, pubic and rarely, eyebrows, and eyelashes. Infestation of lice on eyebrows or eyelashes is most commonly caused by phthirus pubis, which is transferred by hand contact from the genital area to the eye

Contraindications are conditions that mean that you would be unable to carry out the treatment. Some conditions will be a total contraindication, and others may need the advice of the clients GP to confirm it is ok to proceed. It is essential that you not only look for these problems, but you should have already asked your client if they were aware of any issues when you did your consultation. As well as asking your client about any contraindication, you must also look for them yourself, as clients may not always be aware of the reasons behind them. DO NOT IGNORE a contraindication. You could make the clients situation worse, and also invalidate your insurance. Conditions that are TOTALLY contraindicated  - 1st trimester of pregnancy  - Auto-immune disease, e.g. Addison’s Disease, Graves’ Disease, Lupus, Multiple Sclerosis,   -  Rheumatoid Arthritis -  Type 1 / insulin dependent diabetics -  Active shingles / Chicken Pox -  Haemophiliacs -  Thin, weak, comprimised or delicate skin -  Clients on blood thinning medication Apixaban, Dabigatran, Heparin, Rivaroxaban, Warfarin - Clients taking prescription medication for acne (such as Roaccutane) - Infectious/contagious diseases (inc active coldsores) - Undiagnosed lumps/swellings  - Clients allergic to nickel or stainless steel Conditions that need to be treated with caution - Hypersensitive skin (do a patch test as descibed) - Clients on steroid medication

Contraindications

 - Acne The oil from the sebaceous glands needs to travel up and connect with the vellus hair in order for it to be excreted from the skin. If the hair is removed and the oil builds up, the glands are obstructed and can cause more breakouts  - Severe eczema/psoriasis on face Conditions that could restrict treatment  - Eczema/psoriasis on the face  - Scar tissue, that is less than 3 months old  - Sunburn  - Clients on steroid based medication/chemotherapy: patch test If you are unsure as to the condition of your client you should advise them to seek permission from their doctor to continue with the treatment do remember we are not medicallly trained and so are unable to offer clients advise should their situation fall into one of these categories.

Contraindications

Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation of the skin. Your clients skin will be left smooth and hair free. Because the upper layers of dead skin have been sloughed away, the skin can be more sensitive to light. You need to treat your clients skin  with an SPF cream prior to them leaving the clinic. Your clients must observe the following aftercare:- - Use and SPF in your skin care - even on cloudy and overcast days - Do not combine your treatment with any other facials during your sessions. - Avoid using exfoliants for 7 days after your treatment - Avoid sun beds and strong direct sunlight for 7 days after your treatment. - Do schedule another appointment to provide improved benefits. - Do enjoy your smooth, refreshed face

Aftercare Advice

Should you have a client with hypersensitive skin, or those that may have an allergic reaction, you can patch test prior to their treatment. Patch test: Clean and dry the clients skin (a place near the jawline is ideal) Dermaplane a small test area Leave for 48hrs Ask your client to advise you of any signs of reaction.

Patch Testing

Client Consultation Before treatment can begin a consultation must take place. The consultation is an opportunity to ask the client about their medical and skin history, if they are feeling fit & well, and the motivations for them during their treatment. It is your opportunity to rule out any contraindications. Client records must be obtained, and kept safely. They must be kept up to date with each visit. The consultation must be completed fully by the client, inlcuding the date section to ensure that it meets standards in the event of an insurance claim. A sample form is included for your reference

The reccomended price for a standard dermaplaning facial is £60+ This is a SKILLED & ADVANCED treatment, which requires additional training and ioften insurance cover - and so it should be priced to reflect this. LED treatments, enzyme & chemical peels can be added to your treatments (if you are adequalty qualiifed) which can further increase the cost. I would suggest that you charge £30-40 for your case studies, and never less than £45. As with all of your treatment pricing it is important that clients recognise quality and are always happy to pay for excellent services and treatment.

Pricing

Set Up Your Working Area

To carry out a Dermaplaning treatment you will need the following items: - Facial bowl - Warm water - Consultation form - Gel cleanser - Toner - Facial sponges or mitts - Cotton rounds - Tissues - Black/white tissue (for skin debris) - Waste bin - Sharps box - Head band - Scalpel handle - At least 1 size 10 Blades - Disposable gloves (medical grade) - Moisturiser - SPF cream - Clean towel or couch roll