MADAGASCAR DECEMBER 2010

Madagascar December 2010

Andasibe Area and the RN7 Southern Route

Trip report.

Front Page: Parson’s Chameleon

Introduction

This trip report is based on a short independent trip to the Southern half of Madagascar in

December 2010. No national parks, park guides or accommodation and transport were pre-

arranged, and all services were sorted on arrival. We turned up at the airport with a couple of trip

reports and an idea of where to go. A benefit of travelling in December is that the peak tourist

season (for birding especially) is over, so everywhere is quiet. Potential downsides are that the rains

can restrict access (especially Mantadia – as well as other sites in the north that are not part of this

trip report), and it is the tail end of the bird breeding season so some species may not be as vocal.

The rains didn’t hinder us at all, so we were lucky. Here is a summary what we managed to achieve:

Itinerary

Date Am Pm eve

05 Dec Overnight Heathrow

06 Dec Nairobi Arrive Tana Taxi to Andasibe

07 Dec Perinet Perinet Road and community

reserve

08 Dec Perinet Perinet Perinet

09 Dec Mantadia Mantadia Road

10 Dec Perinet Perinet Perinet

11 Dec Perinet Drive to Ranomafana via

Tana

Arrive after dark

Ranomafana

12 Dec Vohiparara trails Vohiparara trails Night walk on Road

13 Dec Main Swamps Night walk on Road

14 Dec Vohiparara trails Drive to Anja Anja community reserve

15 Dec Anja Community Reserve Drive to Zombitse Zombitse trails

16 Dec Zombitse Trails Drive to Tulear, lunch Tulear

+ sort out flights for later in

week

Drive to Ifaty

17 Dec Mosa Spiny Forest

reserve

Drive/walk along coast,

Spiny Forest

Mosa reserve/road

18 Dec Coast/drive to Tulear Flight to Tana Tana

19 Dec Tana Tana Tana

20 Dec Late am Flight to Nairobi Nairobi Overnight to Heathrow

21 Dec Arrive Heathrow

Accommodation (costs in MGA = Malagasy Ariary)

Andasibe (Perinet/Mantadia) – Hotel Feon ‘ny’ Ala basic twin room no ensuite 32,000MGA (the

most enjoyable hotel we stayed at by a long way). Speaking with the bird guide Patrice he is

currently building guest accommodation on the edge of the village of Andasibe, adjacent to his

house, presumably to be ready by the main bird watching season in Autumn 2011. When in the

village one evening at the internet café he took us around to see his work in progress – and show us

his resident garden Madagascar Flufftail . His contact is number is 0(0261) 330241390.

Ranomafana – Hotel Ihary to the eastern edge of the village twin cabin with ensuite 50,000MGA

Anja – Anja Community Reserve Accommodation. 50,000MGA New build with restaurant adjacent.

Isalo/Zombitse – We decided to stay outside of Isalo as it is less expensive and nearest to Zombitse is

the village of Sakaraha. Here the Hotel Le Palace on the western edge of town had a basic twin

room with toilet/shower in room (separated by curtain) for 30,000MGA. This town and more

especially the town between Isalo and Zombitse are the centre for Sapphire mining district, advice is

to be careful in these parts, but the hotel we stayed at seemed ok during our stay.

Ifaty/Mangily – Hotel Vovotello – beach front twin room hut with ensuite. 60,000MGA. The hotel

backs onto the beach.

Antanarivo – Hotel Le Cheval Blanc – 46,100MGA for a twin room with ensuite. Food here the worst

for the trip, room ok. 1mile from Airport, 40mins to centre of the city (because of the horrific traffic

congestion – get dropped off on the outskirts of the centre and walk in).

Transport

Driver & Nissan 4x4 Eugine for 10 days (after Andasibe). Cost 100,000MGA per day (with petrol

being additional – similar to UK petrol costs). Eugine had a number of contacts and knew park

guides along the route we took and could recommend hotels or provide options. He is not a wildlife

guide. His English was not perfect, but he also speaks a bit of Italian and Spanish as well as French.

Contact details:

Park Guides Used

Access to national parks is only possible with local rangers. Some rangers also have excellent bird as

well as general wildlife knowledge.

Andasibe area: Patrice 0(0261) 330241390 (+ Maurice’s old Peugeot for getting to Mantadia),

Ranomafana: Fidi & Sabine ,

Zombitse: (unfortunately names not taken down)

Ifaty: Freddy & Mosa’s Brother

Bird sounds

Frank Hawkins, Richard Ranft (2007) Bird Sounds of Madagascar, An Audio Guide to the Islands

Unique Birds, The British Library

None of the park guides used had acceptable play back recorders or speakers, but they generally had

good calling and/or shepherding (!) techniques. Most had uptodate gen for the tricky species

within the national parks.

Southern Sites along the Route Nationale 7 & Andasibe Area east of Antananarivo

Madagascar is the fourth largest island in the world, don’t underestimate the distances…

Locations Visited

(1) Perinet Special Reserve & Community Reserves Around Andasibe:

Birds

Mid altitude rain forest site with some lowland affinities. Perinet is the principal location for many

rainforest endemics. Many of the commoner ones occur in other forest sites as well. 3.5 days here:

Short Legged Ground Roller, Pitta-like Ground Roller, Rufous-headed Ground Roller*, Cuckoo Roller,

Common Sunbird Asity, Velvet Asity, Mad Fluftail, Red Fronted Coua, Blue Coua, Nuthatch, Hook-

billed, White-headed, Red-tailed, Blue, Tyla’s (inc. one looked like a albigularis type), Chabert’s

Vanga, Brown Emutail* (H. only – had no mp3 capability to tempt it out as charger broke after the

first day), Mad Scops Owl, Cryptic Warbler, Rands Warbler, Mad Harrier-hawk, Mad & Frances

Sparrowhawk, Mad Buzzard, Mad Partridge, Mad Wood Rail (H. only), White-throated Rail, Mad Blue

Pigeon, Gtr & Lesser Vasa (inc dubious origin ones), Mad Cuckoo, Coucal, Mad Kingfisher, Mad

Cuckooshrike, Long-billed, Spectacled, Grey-crowned Greenbul*, Dusky Newtonia* , White-throated

Oxylabes, Yellowbrow & Crossley’s (H. only), all ‘Jerys’ and Ward’s Fly.

*think only present on highest point, just out the backend of the reserve.

(we failed to see Long-eared Owl and Ibis here – but could have probably tried harder)

1

2

Other wildlife

The place to see Indri. Other Lemurs seen included Diademed Sifaka (relocation project from logged

forest elsewhere), Common Brown Lemur, Greater Dwarf Lemur, Hairy-eared Dwarf Lemur, Grey

Bamboo Lemur (H. only – id Patrice), Red-bellied Lemur, Tuft-tailed Rat sp., Sportive Lemur sp.,

Weasel, Striped Teneric.

Parsons Chameleon, Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko, Brookesia sp. Chameleons, Madagascar Tree Boa,

Giraffe-necked Weevil, Calumma nasutum agg (‘Big-nosed’ Chameleons), C. gastrotaenia, C.

brevicornis, Lined, Striped and Peacock Day Gecko (Phelsuma sp.), Mad Girdled Lizard (Zonosaurus

madagascarensis). Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko.

(2) Mantadia:

Birds

As good if not better than Perinet, but 1hrs drive on bad road from Andasibe. 1 day here. Additional

sp/highlights:

Mad Little Grebe & Mellers Duck + Mad Spinetail on/over the pool at the Graphite Mine clearing

Scaly Ground Roller, Collared Nightjar, Mad Pygmy Kingfisher, Forest Fody, Forest Rock Thrush,

Frances Sparrowhawk, Blue Pigeon, Gtr & Lesser Vasas, Red-breasted Coua, White-throated Oxy.

Other Wildlife

Best place for Diademed Sifaka and Black & White Ruffed Lemur (both impressive looking), Indri,

Eastern Red Forest Rat, Mantella baroni Frogs, Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko, Satanic Leaf-tailed Gecko,

Pill millipede,

(3) Ranomafana

Birds

An eastern rainforest site that is at slightly higher altitude than Andasibe area. 2.5 days. Additional

Sp here:

Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity (V), Velvet Asity , Rufous-headed (V) & Pitta-like Ground Roller, Pollen’s

Vanga (V), Brown Mesite (R), Henst’s Goshawk (V), Grey Crowned Greenbul (V), Grey Emutail (M),

Mad. Swamp Warbler (M), Dark Newtonia (H. only), Mad Yellowbrow (V), Crossley’s Babbler (V),

Rufous Vanga (R), Forest Fody (V).

V = Vohiparara, R = Main Ranomafana circuit, M = Marshes to west (ask park guides)

Didn’t have time to try for the Snipe also present in local farmland around here.

3

4

Other Wildlife

Golden Bamboo Lemur, Greater Bamboo Lemur, Milne-Edwards Sifaka, Rufous Mouse Lemur, Red-

bellied Lemur, Red-fronted Brown Lemur, Common Brown Lemur, Ring-tailed Mongoose,

Madagascar Tree Boa, Parson’s Chameleon,

Parson’s Chameleon, Calumma fallax, C. brevicornis, C. gallus, C. gastrotenia (suspected), C.

oshaughenessyi, Furcifer willsii, Brookesia sp (inc. superciliaris), Mantella baroni, M.

madagascarensis.

(4) Anja

Birds

Late afternoon and morning here for Ring Tailed Lemur at the community reserve, few bird sp. of

open country. Inc. Grey Headed Lovebird. Location on map may not be accurate but 13km south of

Ambalavo.

Other Wildlife

A very convenient place to see the classic lemur, Ring Tailed. The lemurs here are at higher altitude

than Berenty and along the south coast so are more cuddly looking. They are also very tame. Other

wildlife included Brookesia sp. & Oustalet's chameleons, Iguanas, and interesting Euphorbias and

other drought tolerant succulents.

5

5a

6

6a

(5) Zombitse

Birds

Late afternoon and early morning here. Trails north and south of road (access from main carpark

east end of forest). Giant & Coquerel’s Coua, Crested Coua (H. only), White-browed Owl, Mad

Hoopoe, Appert’s Greenbul, Mad Buzzard, Cuckoo Roller esp. common here.

Didn’t try for Benson’s Rock Thrush, or Mad Harrier at Isalo (5a). Didn’t try for the ‘dry forest’ Scops

Owl that is at both Zombitse and Isalo (plus other western forest sites further north). Ibis previously

recorded here but no sign.

Other Wildlife

Verreaux’s Sifaka is relatively common (this is the ‘dancing’ Sifaka, but they do not dance here as

that is an adaptation to open space), Hubbard’s Sportive Lemur, Ring Tailed Lemur, Red Fronted

Brown Lemur, Verreaux’s Chameleon, Oustalet's Chameleon, Standing’s Day Gecko, Iguana sp.,

Flatid Leaf Bug.

(6) Ifaty & Tulear (Toliara)

Birds

Spiny Forest and coastline, arid farmland and coral rag scrub. 1.5 days here, including travelling to

and from Ifaty. Long-tailed Ground Roller (M), Subdesert Mesite (M), Lafresnaye’s, Chabert’s &

Sickle-billed Vanga (M), Thamnornis (M), Subdesert Brush-warbler, Mad Plover, Mad Turtle Dove,

Grey Headed Lovebird, Vasa’s, Coquerel’s (M), Red-capped (olivaceiceps) (M), Running (M, SF), &

Crested Coua (M, SF), Mad Nightjar (M, SF). Plus common open ground sp. if not picked up

elsewhere such as lark, cisticola, manakin, kestrel etc, Sakalava Weaver

M= Mosa private reserve only. Also birded general tracks driving north of Ifaty for spiny forest (SF)

(in day time very hot!). Failed to find Banded Kestrel here but didn’t try hard. There were plenty of

potential stops for waders and coastal sp. between Tulear and Ifaty – saw plenty of waders etc. If

cant find Mad. Plover ask Freddy for a site.

Didn’t have time to get to sites south of Tulear (road to St Augustine etc 6a) (wanted to do it on the

18th, probably staying St Augustine overnight but no available flights back for 19th) so missed the

chance of Mad Sandgrouse, Red-shouldered Vanga, Littoral Rock Thrush (only Nosy Ve) & Verreaux’s

Coua.

Other wildlife

Sportive Lemur (Hubbards?), Grey-brown Mouse Lemur, Spider Tortoise, Spiny-tailed Lizard, flaccid

Leaf Bug. Three-eyed Lizards

Further Reading

Brian Gee (1998) Madagascar (with Mauritius & Reunion) Winter 97/98

John Hornbuckle (1996) Madagascar and the Comoros, October/November 1995

Both above are available through the African Bird Club online shop.

Alex Schouten, Angeline Peters (2004) Self Driving Bird Trip Madagascar

Jan Vermeulen (1996) Madagascar 26 November to 15 December 1995

Remco Hofland (2004) How to Clean Up in Madagascar? Sept 25 to Oct 31 2004

Above sourced via internet published trip reports

A selection of trip photos (reduced to 72dpi):

Pitta-like Ground Roller Community Reserve outside Andasibe

Short-legged Ground Roller, Perinet Special Reserve

Giraffe-necked Weevil on its foodplant Dichaetanthera cordifolia, Perinet Special Reserve

Mantella baroni along a forest stream at Mantadia

Diademed Sifaka

Blue Coua, Perinet Special Reserve

Red-fronted Coua, Perinet Special Reserve

Madagascar Tree Boa, Perinet Special Reserve

Striped Teneric, Perinet Special Reserve

Satanic Leaf-tailed Gecko, Mantadia

Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko, Mantadia

Madagascar Pigmy Kingfisher, Mantadia

Collared Nightjar, Mantadia

Wedge-tailed Jery, Mantadia

Greater Vasa Parrot, Mantadia by Graphite Mine Clearing

Indri, Perinet Special Reserve

Red-bellied Lemur, Perinet Special Reserve

Rufous Mouse Lemur, Ranomafana

Boophus madagascarensis, Ranomafana

Golden Bamboo Lemur, Ranomafana

Milne-Edwards Sifaka, Ranomafana

Brown Mesite, Ranomafana

Grey Emutail, Ranomafana

Pollen’s Vanga, Ranomafana

Anja Community Reserve

Dry country Brookesia sp. Anja Community Reserve

Ring-tailed Lemur, Anja Community Reserve

Ring-tailed Lemur, Anja Community Reserve

Ring-tailed Lemur, Anja Community Reserve

Route Nationale 7 from Antananarivo to Tulear

Hubbard’s Sportive Lemur, Zombitse Forest

Coquerel’s Coua, Zombitse Forest

Running Coua, Mosa Private Spiny Forest Reserve

Standing’s Day Gecko, Zombitse Forest

The Spiny Forest, Ifaty. This unique habitat is like nowhere else on earth.

Young Octopus Tree in recovering Spiny Forest following cutting for firewood

Long-tailed Ground Roller, Mosa Private Spiny Forest Reserve

Long-tailed Ground Roller (inc. juvenile at front), Mosa Private Spiny Forest Reserve

Archbold’s Newtonia, Spiny Forest, Ifaty

Thamnornis Warbler, Spiny Forest, Ifaty

Sickle-billed Vanga, Mosa Private Spiny Forest Reserve

The other 90%. Most of the Madagascar landscape is deforested, and with it goes virtually all of the unique wildlife. Here is a lone Baobab tree in semi-arid countryside that is left following deforestation of the western deciduous forests such as that preserved at Zombitse National Park.