www.philippineairlines.com I 59

the wallet much faster. At night, join locals and tourists enjoying the cool breeze and stroll by the brightly lit India Gate, Delhi’s equivalent of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

AgraThe Taj Mahal, about three hours away from Delhi by train, is the most visited site in the country. It was built by Emperor Shah Jahan who was so grief-stricken when his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal died during childbirth that he was compelled to build the most famous symbol of enduring love. And made the rest of us guys look bad since then.

I stayed overnight in Agra at the Gateway Hotel and got up at 6 am just to be among the first in line. It was a misty, foggy day, but I still managed to stay for hours to contemplate its sublime beauty from all different angles.

Towards the end of my trip, I couldn’t bear the thought of leaving India without seeing the Taj Mahal at its best. I took an-

other trip back, and was rewarded with the most magical sight in the morning. You can also go across the Yamuna River, and view it from the other side, with its reflection in the water. Only two kilometers away is the Agra Fort where Shah Jahan lived.

VaranasiThe oldest city in India, the beauty here

is watching life unfolding on the banks of the Ganges. I got up before sunrise to take a boat ride and watch thousands of pilgrims from all over bathe and make offerings in the morning mist. The sight is simultane-ously serene and stunning. I also visited the nearby town of Sarnath, where Buddha first taught the Dharma.

JaipurAlso known as the Pink City, Jaipur is the largest city in Rajasthan and is the capital. Made of red and pink sandstone, the Palace of the Winds (Hawa Mahal) appears most vivid in the warm, early morning light. Al-

most a thousand small windows allow all the royal women and concubines, who had to practice strict purdah, or face concealment, to see all the activities in the street below without being seen. Amer Fort is an impos-ing palace sitting on a hill with Maota Lake as its front moat. You can ride a painted el-ephant and feel like royalty as the powerful drums and horns welcome you at the gate. Inside, the Mirror Palace has thousands of inlaid mirrors and colored glass beads that flicker beautifully under candlelight at night. The zenana, or harem area, housed the royal wives and hundreds of concubines. Clearly, the Rajas believed in spreading the love a lot more than Shah Jahan.

At night, the lit Water Palace seems to float in the middle of the lake and is a stunning view. On the final night at my hotel, I crashed (with permission of course) an elaborate Indian wedding com-plete with the groom arriving on a white steed. It lasted till morning—Shah Jahan would’ve been proud.

The Amer Fort is located a few kilometers from Jaipur and set on top of a hill overlooking Maota Lake. Also known as Amber Fort or Amer Palace, it was once the residence of Rajput royalty. Photo by Stuart Dee.

India is part of BRICS, an international political organization of leading emerging markets. It consists of Brazil, Russia, India, China, and South Africa.

CROWNING GLORY: The island of Cor on is recognizable by its jagged peaks, resembling the spikes of a crown. With no hotels or lodges, it's the ultimate getaway. Photo by George Tapan; Inset: Kayaking in Kayangan Lake. Photo

by Nyx Martinez

ESCAPE

TO CALAMIANES: FIVE ENCHANTED DAYS NYX MARTINEZ rediscovers paradise in Palawan

D , 014F: "If you love me, stop paddling!" I couldn't see John behind me, but I knew he was working steady and fast Ahead was the Co ron Island crown-shaped rock-our destination. But directly between us and the island was a huge passenger ferry, and we were headed straight for it

"Pleasef'I shrieked again in desperation, "Stop paddling!"

"No! Keep goingf' my husband yelled back. "\'<fe're not gonna hit it, ttust mef'

Trust! Wasn't that what marriage was all about? Yet right now, 1 was reluctant to let John have mine. We were in a two-seater kayak, attempting to reach Co ron Island, and return before sundown. We wanted to see the mysterious Kayangan Lake, swim in

9() I Mabuhay Magazine I Noverrber 2011

it, and have a grand, romantic time. If we don't get swallowed up first by a giant ferry, I thought.

We were celebrating our second wedding anniversary, the biggest journey I had ever embarked on.It had been, so far, what all good journeys entail: adventure, discovery, and once in awhile, getting lost. John, who had kitesurfed almost every possible part of our islands, had spent much time in the Calamianes group, in the North of Palawan. He was fumiliar with the wind, the waters, the current, and how to navigate them with a kite. 1 wasn't so sure about his kayak captaining skills. Yet again, he proved me wrong. Keeping his gaze steady, both on the ferry and on our destination, he steered us safely past the giant. At the

mystical Kayangan Lake, we swam in an enchanted piece of heaven.

It was past sunset by the time we returned. We stopped in at Bistro Co ron, a little side restaurant run by a Frenchman named Bruno, who had lived in the Philippines for four decades. And he had that many stories to tell. His adventures were punctuated with multiple expletives. John just smiled; he had heard them all before. On the menu were European pizzas, pastas, and scallops done just right. When the electricity shut otf a couple hours later,

STRAIGHT INTO SERENITY From Club Paradise's dive pool (Dugong Dive Center), it's just a few steps to the ocean to experience the magic of Calamianes.

we were still there, and Bruno was telling us about being blown up in a tiny boat when he was in his 20's, about finding some of the country's first archaeological ruins, about the corruption of politics which had caused him so much trouble, The old man was so grumpy, it was fascinating, "Ah, my wife, she says I complain too much;' he snarled, taking another swig of rum-coke, the typical island mix, "it's not good for my heart, she says:·

Another place down the road, Otto's bar, was run by an Austrian named Otto, of course. This jolly old soul kept us in delightful company, "Respect before you expect;' Otto admonished a few times,

"A sheikh in Africa once told me this, I was in Nigeria when there was a lot of crime, but my colleagues and I were always safe because we showed respect:' When the rum had warmed us more than was adequate for this tropical climate, we thanked Otto for his sound advice before flagging down a trike back to our choice resort for the night, Kokosnuss.

D, TVJC. The Calamianes Group of Islands is best

known for its main three: Busuanga, Co ron, and Culion-but there are hundreds more. The next day, we hopped on a speedboat to the Sangat Island Reserve, During

the IS-minute ride, we got to knowJojo Lorenz, the German PADI and SDI dive instructor, who was also one of those "locals:· Jojo had been a diver here for 16 years. It was popular with divers who would come here specifically for wreck-diving, Andy Pownall, who ran Sangat, had first come to Co ron from the UK in 1986, as a professional diver for a British marine archeological group. "In those days, we didn't have much communication, we didn't have much TV, we didn't have anything;· he told us later over lunch. "But it was just fantasticf'

Andy loved the islands so much, he eventually purchased Sangat Island. He married a Tagbuanua woman, learned to speak the local language, to read and write it, and have a thorough understanding oflocallaws and traditions. In 1994, the eco-friendly res01t was opened. It now comprised a restaurant and bar, gift-shop, water sports and dive center. With 14 native accommodations, Sangat had a very relaxed, rustic and quiet atmosphere. Our private patt of paradise was the tri-level, two­bedroom Lambingan Villa, separated from the main island by a walkway which led to a hidden beach. The rest of the afternoon, John and I snorkeled, bathed in hot springs, and watched for wild monkeys. That night, on a moonlit sandy shore, under a blanket of stars, it was just the ocean making music, and us.

r, ,.. THPE~

Wreck diving was one of the reasons Sangat had become so popular in recent years: A few of the sunken ships were just 15 minutes from its shores. The gunboat we chose to explore was popular with underwater photographers. Its crusted hull was visible just five inches from the surface. I stayed near the top with my snorkel and mask while John and Jojo, in full dive gear, dove much deeper. Later in the day, Andy took us to Tending Island, where a simple school for indigenous Tagbanua children was set up. There, we met Bert Peeters, a Belgian NGO worker who showed us around the school. At Tending, I also saw the most curious thing: One British fellow and one Belgian, both speaking Filipino­not just with the locals, but with each

WVIMI.philippineairli nes.com I 91

CLOSE ENCOUNTER The Dugong Dive Center on Dimakya Island is near to some of the ocean's rarest marine mammals. (BELOW LEFT) Just off Sang at Island, huge corals shimmer when the sunlight shines on these shallow

waters.

other. This was true integration, where no

lan,ouage barrier could segregate them. "The culture is in their survival;' Bert

said, about the Tagbanua, "their ways and means of dealing with this climate:· "They've actually got so much they can teach us;· Andy remarked, "and what we can do is help them adapt to the changing environment and the changing world:' Bert took us around the school grounds, which was a simple, single hut for teaching and a large space for eating. "The mats they are making are better quality than many other mats coming from different areas of the Philippines. So we try to help them make a profit from that, and it goes back to the Community:'

Volunteer teachers taught the children who came from neighboring fisher-folk families, Schoolbooks were donated; it wasn't much, but a head-sta1t to education and a progressive life for these kids.

1\ v FOIIP: Qub Paradise was waiting. The resort sits

on a 19-hectare island named Dimakya. To get there, we returned to the Co ron airport and were shuttled an hour over land and boat. On the island, guests can choose from different types of cottages: Garden View, Sea

92 I Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

View, Hillside, Island View, Junior Suite, or Beachfront-the single detached cottages that we chose for our one night here.

Dirk Fahrenbach, president of the world­class Dugong Dive Center on the island, was so enthusiastic about the existing marine life. "This place has the most marine diversity in the world. We have much more to offer than the Maldives! Here, there is everything-whalesharks, dugongs, shipwrecks from the war. You can dive all year round:'

For beginners like me, Qub Paradise was the ideal location for an lntro dive. Straight from the pool into the ocean, stepping on the seabed felt like walking right into a clear, vast aquarium, With complete equipment to ensure full safety, we had the best viewing point possible. Dugongs, or sea cows, were said to be spotted here in the March-June season. I came across giant sea turtles, baby sting rays, loads of jellyfish, amazing coral gardens and psychedelic fish in this fascinating world. We walked around underwater for half an hour before resurfacing.

The late afternoon was spent lounging by the Dugong Bar with Long Island Iced Teas-and the classic cocktail never seemed more fitting. This stretch of pure white in

Ca€M«.t W<Uf.fja

--.Sa•..dA•<l>ft The J>omal<,.a r£-,f.a.,..J.. ~ C~J, Yata.d.(/.)e.

front of us was 700 meters long and poured

into turquoise waters, the color clear as could be to the horizon point. Then, just after sundown, we saw the most amazing phenomena: Hundreds of thousands of bats started soaring over head, leaving our island in droves, going in search of food. Later, we learned this was a nightly event. After a delicious buffet dinner, we spent some time talking with the resort's owner, Juergen Warnke. 'Tve seen all the countries in Asia;· the wistful, elderly German said. "To me, the Filipinos are the friendliest in the world. And the islands are more beautiful than any other islands in the world. It's as simple as that:'

IJ ' Fl 'E: Our last stop was El Rio Y Mar, the sister of Club Paradise. This resort felt a bit more secluded but the air was tranquil, the rooms spacious. They offered native cabanas, cedar cabanas, or full houses with sea views. The Caltom's Bar sat at the end of the pier, lit up at night, and magical. We lingered there till late, when the rain drizzled around us,

Illustration by Ryan Kabigting

recalling the people we had met here and the lives we'd encountered. It was a fantastic week in one of the most remarkable places on earth.

"The Calamianes Islands are a world in itself,' I'd remembered Mr. Warnke saying. Separated from the main body of Palawan, which was already out of the way from the rest of the country, these islands had always held their own secluded charm. Whether it was ancient Chinese traders, Borneo neighbors, Malay settlers, or today's expats and tourists, those who came to this enchanted place almost never wanted to leave.

Going here was getting back to nature, and to ourselves, celebrating a marriage that worked out when we'd tlusted each other enough to let life happen. John and I had traveled together to many romantic places in Europe and Asia. Yet here, in the Philippines' Calamianes islands, at the far side of Palawan, I felt that nothing could compare. Perfection, some claimed, was near impossible; but it was out here. And, forced to kayak together, we had found it.

For all-inclusive hiking, camping, and boating tours

of the Calamianes Islands, contact Betan Pe, a trustworthy, local guide

featured in Lonely Planet. Call Showtime Adventures at +63908

939 3703.

CORON TOWN • Van from Airport

to Coron Town (Php150) • Kokossnuss Resort (Php1,700

for bungalow with private bathroom and aircon)

• Dinner at Bistro Coron Beers (Php50); Pizza for two

(Php300)

• Kayak Rental (Php800); wet bag to keep valuables (Php100);

snorkels (Php100 each); entrance to lake (Php200/person)

SANGAT ISLAND RESERVE Rates start at US$100; +63919 617 5187; info@sangat com ph; www

sangatcomph

• To Sangat Island 15 minute speedboat from Coron town

• PADI and SDI Courses US$89.50 (2-3 hours; 3-8 meters)

CLUB PARADISE RESORT Rates start at US$190; +632 838

4956; clubpara@info com ph; www. clubpa rad isepa Ia wan .com

• From airport. take 20 minutes shuttle van, then 45 minute boat to Dimakya Island, Club Paradise (land and boat transfers US$22

per pax) • Full Body Massage at the spa

Php1,000

(Island-hopping and other Coron tours available)

OUGONG DIVE CENTER Rates start at Php1,400 plus Php700 rental charge; info@ dugongdivecentercom; www

dugongd ivecenter.com

EL RIO Y MAR RESORT Rates start at US$170; +632

838 4956-60; info@elrioymar com; wwwelrioymar.com

TENDING ISLAND SCHOOL Balay Ta Kinatakwanan "House of Knowledge"; ( +63918 280 3257;

sa ragpunta@ya hoo com)

.............................................. ~ .. ·r;t: .. ili~~-b~-~~~~~-~~~~i~-~~·d··8~~~~~·~~-;;~ii~ ···F·~;·~·~;~· ~~t~;~-~-~i·~~: ............................................................................... . ""'""'f"""' call PAL reservations office at (+632) 855 8888 or visit wwwphilippineairlinescom

94 I Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

Silver service by the beach The resort's baroque touches

Where 'Baroque £\feets 'Beach Mangenguey Island looks like the kind of place where you can wear your weird sunglasses. Here, native cottages painted green and red and baroque-themed surroundings give a refreshing look to the usual clean whites and safe blues of beach resorts. Mangenguey Island is located in the Philippines' Calamianes islands in Palawan. Because owners Helena Carratala and Richard Mander accept only 12 guests at a time, one can look forward to their personally prepared meals and cocktails. If you still need convincing, check out their reviews on Trip Advisor-they're rated #1 among 9 hotels in the area. ww1v. mangenguey.com Photos by At Maculangan

96 I Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

cAmanpufo: ~ufeawatJ of the 'Rich cAncfTamous

Here, elite guests ranging from European royalty to Hollywood celebrities romp on a pristine 5.5-kilometer island with powder white sand and turquoise waters with no other resort or any residential or commercial activity. There are only 40 guest casitas (cottages) with a unique Filipino influence designed by no less than the Philippine National Artist for Architecture, Bobby Mafiosa. Since it begun in 1993, Amanpulo has garnered numerous awards including"Best Resort in Southeast Asia" from UK Gallivanter's Guide. Having an Am an resort, like Amanpulo in your country carries a lot of prestige. It is one of the signs that Philippines has arrived. A man Resorts was founded by Adrian Zecha and has 23 resorts in 14 countries. ww1v.amanresorts.com. Photos by Bien Bautista

98 I Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

FOLK TALE

WHY THE MACOPA IS BELL-SHAPED Long time ago, in a very remote place, there was a church which the people loved very much. They never failed to attend mass and all religious activities in that church. This church was known for its golden bell of which the people took utmost care.

One day the people were shocked by the news that a group ofMoro pirates were coming to seize the golden bell. The people lost no time in hiding the bell. They buried it in front of the church.

When the pirates arrived in the place, they went directly inside the church to get the golden bell. The bell could be found nowhere inside the church. They

searched for it in the houses and everywhere else in the place but in vain. This enraged the robbers. To punish the people the group beheaded anybody they met or cut their tongue for refusing to tell them where the golden bell was. Some of the people were able to flee to the mountain.

Not long after this incident, a tree was found growing on the spot where the golden bell was buried. The people watched it grow. After a few years, it bore fmits shaped like bells. As the fruit ripened, it became deeper red in color. The people found it very delicious.

THE: HVTHS Philippine Folk

Literature by Damiana L. Eugenio Published by the Un1versi ty of

the Philippines Press. 2001. Paperback. 513 pages. University of the Philippines Press. E. de los Santos St.

University of the Philippines Campus. 'fi1' (+632) 928 2558; 181 up.press@gmail

\ com; li1 www.press. jup.edu.ph.

y I06 I Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

AGEM IN THE CORAL TRIANGLE

In this 1.6-billion-acre region, a jewel shines brighter among the rest. ELIZABETH COOK surveys the Philippine waters and finds out why it is called the "center of the center" of marine biodiversity.

For many years, scientists have recognized that the Coral Triangle, which includes the Philippines, Malaysia, and Indonesia, has the richest variety of marine animals anywhere on earth. Indeed, the Triangle has often been referred to as a "hotspot of marine biodiversity" because ofthe vast number of different species found there.

SUPERNOVA IN THE SEA As a result of recent research, the Philippines has been identified as the hottest part of the biodiversity hotspot, or, as scholars put it, the "center of marine biodiversity:' In a 2004 study, marine biologists Kent E. Ca1penter

108 I Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

and Victor G. Springer discovered that there were more marine animals in a meter of ocean water in the Philippines than anywhere else in the Coral Triangle. That makes the Philippines a supernova in a sea of bright stars. The same study identified Verde Island Passage, located between southern Luzon and Mindoro islands, as having the greatest variety of shore-fish species, indicating that a vast wealth of other species resides there as well.

For a lot of scientists, ocean animals still represent a huge mystery. The fact that the ocean covers an area three times the size of the earth's land mass offers marine biologists

a huge hunting ground for new species, An example ofthe Philippines' rich

biodiversity is the number of nudibranchs (pronounced new-dee-branks) found in these waters. Dainty and exquisitely colored, nudibranchs are affectionately referred to as "sea slugs" by slug hunters­the marine biologists who spend months underwater hunting for new species,

Slug hunters have identified some 3,000 species of nudibranchs around the world, At least 717 of those species are found in Philippine waters, which makes the country home to the largest collection of nudibranch species in the entire Indo­Pacific, The closest competitor is Papua New Guinea with around 646 species, Species are being discovered so rapidly in these areas that more than half of them have yet to be scientifically named and described. This wave of new nudibranchs might have marine biologists wondering if sea slugs are evolving into new species faster than they can be cataloged!

FOOD, SURGERY, AND MEDICINE Biodiversity is a useful thing to people whether it is related to land animals or

The Philippines is at the heart of the Coral Triangle, a 1.6-billion-acre area (about half the size of the US), which is home to 3,000 species of fish, 500 coral species (75 percent of all known species), and six of the world's seven species of sea turtles - WWF. (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) A pair of Coleman shrimps in Batangas; A sea snake with forked tongue; A pipefish ghost; A school of anthias. Photos by Robert Yin

animals in the sea. Many people depend on animals as food sources. The more types of animals, the more varieties of protein are available to us. In terms of the sea, this translates to the many species of fish, crabs, and lobster, at the very least

More and more, scientists look to ocean animals for unique solutions to human problems. For example, coral can be used during reconstructive surgery as a structure for new bone to grow around. The deadly venom found in the Geography Cone, a

110 Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

species of sea snail, is said to have a pain­killing compound that could alleviate the terrible pain experienced by patients, including people who suffer from cancer.

With such a 'sea' of benefits, conservation methods need to be put firmly in place in these areas. These efforts will not only prevent us from wiping out food sources and enable marine animals to thrive, but also help communities attract tourist dollars with clean beaches, pristine waters, and attractive reef inhabitants.

In the Philippines, scientists have the unique opportunity to readily and consistently survey and monitor marine animals, water, and habitat quality. The vital information they have, in turn, could help shape local and government policy, If there are 717 species of nudibranch in the surrounding seas and many more to be discovered, consider how many more species of ocean animals are waiting to be discovered. And it could be you who finds one!

number or coral species per ecoregion 0-100 101-200 201-300 301-400 401-500 501-600

, (I

t:J

A good dive site needs to be conveniently located with provisions for divers lnduding room, board,

k Hereare some of my favorites:

MAIN IT POINT, MABIN I, BATANGAS Main it Point sits at the tip of Mabini and flanked by Batangas Bay and Balayan Bay. Nutrient rich currents flow from the two bays providing food for a varied collection of marine life at the point. Mimic octopus, wunderpus, hairy frogfish, rhinopias, Indian Walk man, and other rare animals abound at Secret Bay and Coral Garden dive sites, and whitetip reef sharks doze in the Sharks'

Research provided by WWF; Illustration by Ryan Kabigting

Condominium. Snorkelers can enjoy Mainit Point, as well as divers, but be careful of the frequently strong current

CATHEDRAL ROCK, ANILAO, BATANGAS While diving just otfshore of Pagalangit Point with Randy Limjoco in 1963,1 found these two adjacent submerged pinnacles. At that time, it was a virgin undersea jungle of thick growth of soft coral and black coral bushes. Through thick sweeper fish schools, I peeped into deep crevices filled with large lobsters hiding behind their waving tentacles. Sea life here remains abundant today, thanks to the rich current from Pagalangit Bay and the local coral reef protection etforts. The cross, planted in 1983 by former President Fidel V. Ramos, then a Brigadier General, signifies the

marine sanctua1y. On Sundays, divers say their prayers here underwater with the fish. An area named the "Swimming Pool" is good for snorkeling.

SEPOK WALL, MARICABAN ISLAND, BATANGAS An easy dive site usually with a gentle current, one can leisurely explore this wall dive inch-by-inch for small critters like colorful nudibranchs, curious hawk fish, and spongy-looking frogfish posing among brightly colored invertebrates like crinoids, sponges, and sea fans. Do not overlook the iridescent blue-spotted ribbontail rays and colorful moray eels hiding in the sand. The sandy bottom, only 10-15 meters deep, is accessible to snorkelers who may try to free­dive for seashells. Another large snorkeling area is located close to the beach.

www.philippineairlines.com I 111

A school of barracuda swims past Robert Yin in Tubbataha Reef. The reefs in the area are very significant because the Philippines relies heavily on its marine resources for livelihood and food. - www.tubbatahareef.org. Photo by Robert Yin

SAN AGAPITO POINT, VERDE ISLAND, BATANGAS A very compact dive site, this is home to over 20 different kinds of sea slugs, within one square meter of sand. On a larger scale, large schools ofbigeye trevally, barracuda, anthias, squirrel fish decorate the coral­rich area. The shallows are also good for snorkelers.

BEATRICE, SOMBRERO ISLAND, BATANGAS Filled with canyons and pinnacles, this is one of the most colorful reefs in the country. When the current flows, thick schools of

II2 Mabuhay Magazine November 2011

orangey-pink anthias flow like falling leaves in the water column. The best way to dive Beatrice is to hide on the lee of the often strong current as much as possible.

MALAYAN WRECK, TUBBATAHA REEF, SULU SEA Situated at the end of a short channel, the wreck is quite accessible, and the area around it is energetic with sea life and fish activity with bumphead parrotfish gliding by in the background and a variety of dramatically colored sweetlips hanging around the cleaning stations. The huge ship engine is only a few feet from the

sea surface, as is the deck, with many fish weaving in and out creating great snorkeling and photo opportunities.

PESCADOR lSLAND. MOALBOAL, CEBU This site has recently made the news due to an influx oflarge schools of sardines. The sardines attract large predators including thresher sharks, jack fish, and occasional whale sharks. It is thrilling to swim inside the enormous tornadoes of sardines. For photographers, they serve as an intriguing background for the colorful reef fish, octopus, and corals. The shallow ledge on the island's south end is full of coral seascapes and is ideal for snorkeling.

TALICUD ISLAND, DAVAO, MINDANAO Unaffected bytyphoons,Davao is a favorite location for year-round diving. On Talicud Island, Dayang and Bethlehem are some of the good places to find small critters including the tiger shrimp, harlequin shrimp, and frogfish. The best dives are in the shallower areas, which is good for snorkeling as well.

Picl:s and lltsights of Top Underwater Plwtographers

ROBERT YIN Professional Underwater Pho tographer and book author of several manne l1fe books 1nclud1ng a recent collaboratio n w ith Elizabeth Cook on Underwater Encounters, a series of children's books on the an1mals in the ocean

My favorite dive spot IS Tubbataha Reef.

Biodiversity: Tubbataha Reef collects most of the marine bio-mass from the Sulu Sea and neighbonng islands. For example, most of the hard coral that ex1st in the Phil ippmes can be found here.

My favorite underwater photo IS th1s one taken 1n Tubbataha (oppos1te page, no. 2) . I l1ke th1s p1c ture because 1t shows the largeness of t h1s barrel sponge by contrastmg 1t w ith Ke1ko, my d 1vemaster. It also illustrates the exceptional water c lanty 1n Tubbataha

Help preserve thi s site by donating to its operat ional fund or be1ng Involved m the enforcement of 1ts protect1on .

WOWIE WONG Best Tourism Photo W mner, 2010 ASEAN TA; Co-founder/ Market ing Lead of Network o f Underwater Digital Imagers, Inc. (NUDI); Market Development Manager of Intel Ph1lipp1nes

My favorite dive spot IS either Basura or Secret Bay m Anilao.

Biodiversity: Both c lassified as muck d ive sites, t he so-called 'capital' of nud ib ranchs (over a hundred spec1es) also showcase the most Interesting and somet1mes rare creatu res, such as rhmop1as. octopuses, seahorses, t iny frog f ishes, ghost p1pef1sh, and vanous t iny shnmps

My favorite underwater pho to is this Rmg-tail cardinalf ish (Apogon aureus) from An llao. Batangas C1ty . Th1s fish (oppos1te page, no. 1) caught my attent1on when I had not1ced that 1t was as 1f 1t was coughing or choking, o nly to f ind o ut that such behavio r was caused by protecting 1ts own eggs in 1ts mouth. I had to pat iently wait for over 45 m 1nutes (w1th remaining a 1r worth 8 m inutes) at 60 feet deep m co ld water for that perfect moment w hen 1t faced me w 1t h 1ts eggs show1ng out .

Help preserve this site by teaching f ishermen to fish v1a l1ne among particular s1tes or 1n deeper waters. Fishermen usually catch f1sh by raking the sand w1th nets towards the shore. Th1s prevents soft coral f rom mult iplying, thus. hampenng any form o f l1fe from reach1ng matunty Developing eco-tounsm IS also a good source of income for the communities.

GREGG VAN Enviro nmental Journalist

My favorite dive spot IS Santelmo Reef 1n Hamilo Coast. Nasugbu, nort hern Batangas It IS a perfect example of how q u1ckly damaged coral reefs can recover. Since t he s1tes were act ively protected in 2007, the d ifference in fish y1elds has been not1ceable. Local f1shers reel in f rom four to 12 ki lograms da1ly- a f1gure att r ibuted not JUSt to the m anne protected areas but to Increased enforcement efforts against illegal fishers.

Biodiversity : True Giant Clams, ocellated clownf1sh and ent ire f ie lds of lettuce coral. Because o f the prol1ferat1o n o f these corals, t he s1te IS also known as the Santelmo 'Salad Bowl.' A real treat for d ivers looking fo r an easy d ive and lots of demersal or subst rate-associated reef l1fe. Excellent for macro -photography

My favorite underwater photo is the o ne of the True G1ant Clam ( Tridacna g igas) shown on page 109.

Help preserve this site by v is1tmg Hamllo Co ast . bemg a WWF-Philipp1nes Facebook fan and by logg1ng on to wwforg.ph/donate.

The rice terraces at Barlig's La tang area. The rice terraces are the main livelihood of the people of Barlig, along its banks live old winemakers. Photo by Martin Lazaro

BEYOND SAGADA MARTIN LAZARO suggests an alternative mountain getaway to the Philipines' Sagada Mountain Province

It seems as iftime stands still in Barlig, a remote town in northern Philippines surrounded by lush mountains and forests. If you're looking to take an off-the-beaten­path trip up north, this rugged destination is for you.

The town hardly gets any visitors because of the lengthy travel time that takes 13 to 14 hours via bus along inaccessible roads in the wet season. Fortunately, the difficulty of coming here has helped protect Barlig from exploitation.

With Banaue as a take-otfpoint, Barlig is another three to four hours by jeepney where you will pass through narrow and elevated zigzag roads. The best seats in the house were on the roof of our jeepney­spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding mountains.

Temperatures drop to four degrees upon

Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

entering the misty boundary ofBarlig, a town that is predominantly made up of dense forests with trees covered in moss.

For lodging, there are a few pension houses to choose from.

For Php150-200, you can book BAG a room with views of majestic rice terraces and relax with a fresh cup of Arabica.

Living along the lush rice fields are some of Barlig's wine makers. I had the chance ofbeingwelcomed inside one of these compact wooden homes by an old man. At first, he was hesitant to talk because he saw my camera and requested for it not to be used. He brought out jars that looked like old Chinese bottles-inside them was rice wine. These may have been fermented for a long time because of the cobwebs

enveloping the containers. One bottle even had a cricket

inside that fell in my cup­their version of the tequila with worm. We took turns

taking shots from a husk while next door, an old woman

was playing the flute. With a slight buzz, I enjoyed the rest of

the foggy afternoon walking along the intricate rice paddies.

The pride of Barlig is Mt. Amuyao, the third highest mountain in the Philippines. This heavily forested mountain has enough flora and fauna to make Charles Darwin happy. Strangely, it has an established path all the way to the peak where an abandoned satellite station awaits. Other mountains don't have trails so for those who plan to explore these, go with a guide

and inform him of your hiking capability. Trekking and exploring mysterious lakes

hidden in pockets of forests are the most rewarding activities in Barlig. Here you can spot lots of wild orchids and rare plants endemic to the area. Wild animals still roam Barlig's thick forests so don't be surprised to see traps left along the trails by hunters. There are also numerous streams to keep a river trekker satisfied.

TRAVEL TIPS • The best time to visit is during summer when the rice terraces appear the most lush and roads are safer to pass Before visiting during the rainy season. check the forecast on sites like Accuweather.com. • There is no cell phone signal here. When approaching Barlig. jeepney drivers can advise you when the signal starts to get lost • Upon arrival in Barlig. the first thing you should do is drop by the municipal hall for a simple registration process and briefing • Always have a guide for day trips If attempting to hike the surrounding mountains. bring flashlights. tents and basic survival kits. • Accommodations are very cheap and

Barlig doesn't see the same amount of visitors that flock to Sagada but the town's inhabitants have no problem with that. They keep a dusty record book in the municipal hall where you will notice the different registration dates of tourists going there. Intervals vary from seven months to one year. A rarely visited town that bursts of natural wonders, Barlig is a true naturalist's paradise.

range from Php100-150/night Try the cozy Sea World Inn. • The best way to go about food is to bring your own and ask the foll<s where you're staying to cook them for you There are only a few restaurants in town .

GETTING AROUND • The fastest way to get to Barlig is by taking the cable bus (Php600) located in front of Trinity College along E. Rodri-guez Ave. Cubao. Quezon City It leaves daily for Bontoc at 8 pm From Bontoc. look for jeeps going to Barlig Travel time is one and a half hours . • As soon as you arrive. it's best to buy your return ticket home. The cable bus leaves for Manila twice from Bontoc at 11 a.m. and 3 pm

Make the Philippines your dream retirement destination! Experience an affordable yet quality way of life and feel the warmth and care only global Filipinos can offer.

A gallinera (shown above) is derived from gal!o, the Spanish word meaning "cock" and it refers to the wooden bench with a slatted bottom half designed to keep the guest's fighting cock tucked safely under.

ANTIQUES 101 M.G. REYES gives us a crash course on how to see the value in wooden artworks. Photos by JUSTIN VENTURA

An artifact has to be a hundred years old to qualify as an "antique:·

That is what the law says-Republic Act 10066 to be exact. RA 10066, also known as The National Cultural Heritage Act of 2009 expands the provisions of Presidential Decree 37 4 signed by President Ferdinand E. Marcos in 1973.

RA 10066 defines "antique" as a cultural property found locally which is 100 years in age, more or less, the production of which has ceased.

"Cultural property" refers to "products of human creativity" from paper weights to books, maps, pottery, furniture, houses, churches, mosques, schools, natural history specimens and sites, whether public or privately owned, moveable or immoveable

120 I Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

and tangible or intangible. Here in the Philippines, the National

Museum is tasked to oversee and protect our cultural heritage. For example, the antique collector interested in verifying the authenticity of a porcelain tea pot from China should go to the Cultural Properties Division. This office also issues permits to operate an antique shop and permits to export. To the individual collector, the permit to export simply means the right to take a cultural property out of the country.

Cultural properties classified as "important" will not be allowed to leave the country unless otherwise declared by the proper government agency. Section 5 of RA 10066 classifies the following as "important cultural properties:" works by a

National Artist; works by National Heroes; archaeological and traditional ethnographic materials; marked structures; archival material or document dating at least 50 years old; and structures dating back at least 50 years.

So if you are an expat or a visiting balikbayan and someone offers you an H.R. Ocampo nude or a gold necklace from a shipwrecked galleon off Batangas, it would be good to ask, "Would I be allowed to take it with me?"

Ordinary collectors like us are not likely to be confronted by such a situation. The real question at the back of our minds is: how much is it actually worth?

Dr. Gerard Salgado ofJo-Liza Antiques lists three things that affect the value of an antique apatt from age:

Quality or condition: Are there any missing parts-like a piece of bone inlay? How much restoration is involved?

History or provenance: Where was it found or made? Who owned or used it

From top left Dr. Gerard Salonga's home is adorned with different antique wooden furniture. Danny Flores stands by one of the masterpieces of his late father Juan C. Flores, who is considered the "Dean of Philippine Woodcarving."

before? An antique inkwell is just another antique inkwell unless it was used by General Emilio Aguinaldo to sign the Pact of Biak-na-Bato,

Rarity: How many more of this antique piece is out there?

There is a wealth of antique furniture in the Philippines that are unabashedly adaptations of European models, Howeve~

there are two that are distinctly Filipino in function: the mesa altar and the gallinera.

The term galline~·a is derived from gallo, the Spanish word meaning"cock" and it refers to the wooden bench with a slatted bottom half designed to keep the guest's fighting cock tucked safely under,

The mesa altar is a made-to-order high table that the upper middle class Filipino family used as their altar at home, It is made from Philippine hardwood like narra, kamagong, molave or batikulin,

The mesa altar is usually adorned with "bone inlay;· an exquisite but difficult decorative craft that flourished in France,

Italy and Holland during the 16th and 17th centuries, "Bone inlay" is wood inlaid with tortoise shell, mother-of-pearl or ivory, In

the Philippines where there are no more elephants, the a1tisans sensibly substituted carabao horns for ivory,

Two towns are well-known for their fine

bone inlay furniture: Bal iuag in Bulacan province and Pefiaranda in Nueva Ecija, Bal iuag bone inlay is el~(r.mt in its restraint

It is less floral, more linear, more Asian in its treatment of space, The Pefiaranda bone inlay is the opposite, It is,,well, more abandoned

with its profusion of floral patterns and leaves fenced in by geometric shapes,

One can find genuine antiques­affordable and otherwise-in reputable antique shops in Metro Manila, There are

also the antique shops on Calle Crisologo in Vigan that reportedly sell bone inlay furniture for as much as 30 percent less, A

word of caution: not all items here are as anti~ as claimed,

But who knows? One could be lucky-as some shoppers were-and chance upon a genuine find that given 20 more years will be certified "antique" by the National Museum,

Jo-Liza Arts & Antiques is located at 664 Jose Abad Santos St, Little Baguio, San Juan City or at 4th Floor, Building B, SM Mega mall, Mandaluyong City Call +632 725 8303 or +632 635 3013.

122 1 Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

TOMORROW ALWAYS BEGINS IN THE EAST The University of the East, one of the country's leading academic institutions, marked its yearlong 65th foundation anniversary last September.

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) UE Manila's UE-Tan Van Kee Garden along Recto f!' Avenue; One of the multimedia labs of the College of Computer Studies and Systems; One of the many fully equipped laboratories of the College of Den tis try

124 I Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

The commemoration's theme is "Jose Rizal, Nasa Puso ng UE;' which echoes the I 50th bitth anniversary of the Filipinos' national hero. It is also a eel ebratio n of the values, ideals and actions of Gat Rizal as epitomized by the UE community. Indeed, in their respective ways, UE students, professors, administrators, employees and alumni alike, renowned or unheralded, have become personifications of Dr. Rizal's goodness and greatness-with UE as their common foundation.

Hundreds of thousands of individuals who have made their mark in business, politics, sports, academe, industries, culture, medicine, and other arenas through the years, locally or globally, do have their roots in UE. These alumni share a fondness for "Lualhati;' the welcoming symbol of the University's perpetual reception to the youth of the land and of other nations who long for the enlightenment and enrichment that UE's high-quality education offers. They, in turn, becomeLualhati's virtual ambassadors throughout the world, glorious icons of triumph and achievement through their respective work.

From top: BS HRM students; the UE field; and UE's well-stocked library

Megaworld Corporation Chairman-President Andrew Tan, former Vice President Noli De Castro, Manila Mayor and former Senator Alfredo Lim, PBA living legend and

former Senator Robert Jaworski, MyPhone magnate Elena Lim, Medal for Valor awardee Ariel Querubin, Philippine National Police ChiefNicanor Bartolome, Supreme Court

Justice Lucas Bersamin and Asia-Pacific Dental Federation President Hermogenes Villareal-these are just some of the renowned achievers whose seeds for bright and colorful

tomorrows were planted in UE, specifically at the UE Manila Campus along C. M. Recto Avenue, at the heart of the University Belt.

Now, 65 years since it was founded by Dr. Francisco T. Dalupan Sr. in 1946 amid the post-World War II rubble, UE has remained an ennobling, empowering academic

institution. W ith Dr. Lucio C. Tan as Chairman and Chief Executive Officer-along with M r. Jaime J. Bautista as Vice Chairman, and former CHED Chairperson Ester Albano­

Garda as President, among other officers-UE h olds firm to the ideals of its founders while keeping in step with the times. That is, constantly beefing up its curriculum

to meet the demands of global industries; strengthening its workforce, especially in the academe, to better serve their charges; orienting its students and personnel on

the constantly growing digital age through high-tech IT facilities and capabilities; and instilling in every UE student,

local or foreign alike, the sense of self-worth and service to others.

UE otfers an array of scholarships to deserving students

as welL Aside from the long-time academic scholarships and athletic and cultural service grants, as well as a number of

scholarships from outside entities, there is the UE-Tan

YanKee Foundation Inc. scholarship program. Established in 1998, the program is a tie-up between UE

and the TYKFI, the philanthropic arm of the Lucio Tan

Group of Companies which is named after the late Tan Yan Kee, Dr. Tan's father.

It is therefore fitting that UE marks its 65th year of

service by paying tribute, through its many activities, to Gat Jose Rizal The man himself had lived a life of steadfast faith in his countrymen's inevitable emancipation and

empowerment -through no less than a sound education. All told, UE is the right place for any aspiringyoung

achiever looking for a great starting point. The future can

unfold anywhere in the world, but for everyone in the UE community-students, professors, employees, officers and alumni alike-tomorrow begins in the East.

For more information, readers are invited to visi t www.UE..edu pt\ like University of the East (UE) on Facebook, and follow @Offidai_UE on Twitter.

U6 l Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011

LAST FRAME

Look But Don't Touch July 2011

On their first day in India, MICHAEL JO and his photographer friends had late dinner in Dilli Haat, New Delhi . They passed by an area where

henna tattoos were made for women and children . Here, Michael asked permission from a girl to take her photo and with his Canon 5d Mark

II, captured the details of this intricate form of art The origin of henna dates back to the Bronze Age where it was used as a dye for materials like leather and wool and parts of the body such as hair and fingernails

Early recorded users include India, Rome, Spain and Egypt Popularly used as temporary tattoos today, henna can last from

a few days to a month .

134 I Mabuhay Magazine I November 2011