liverpool wire rope eye splice
DESCRIPTION
A photographic tutorial on the art of turning in an eye splice in wire rope Liverpool fashion.TRANSCRIPT
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~ Liverpool Eye Splice ~
The Art and Craft of
Traditional Ship Rigging
Dedicated to Karl Kortum ~Cape Horn Sailor and Ship Savior~
Legendary Cape Horn sailor and collector of ships who fisted sail aboard the 1899 barque Kaiulani around both Capes on the last American square-rigger to carry cargo - the 1899 barque Kaiulani.
!Karl was a maritime treasure with an incredible
wealth of knowledge and had the gravitas of a wizened old shellback sailor.
!Karl was instrumental in the saving of 1886
Balclutha, 1843 Great Britain, 1877 Elissa, 1878 Falls of Clyde, 1885 Wavertree, among many others and was a founding member of the World Ship Trust and the National Maritime Historical Society
!I feel so fortunate to have been in his orbit during
my time on 1886 full rigged ship Balclutha.
Dedicated to Karl Kortum ~Cape Horn Sailor and Ship Savior~
Karl Kortum at wheel of 1877 barque Elissa Barque Kaiulani - photo by Karl Kortum
Barque Kaiulani - photo by Karl Kortum
There are three different splices made in wire rope - the short splice, long splice and several styles of eye splices. This tutorial will describe one of the eye splices - the Liverpool eye splice tucked with the lay. !The other is the Admiralty style eye splice tucked against the lay. The Admiralty splice is stronger for the friction on the tucked strands is much greater under load than the Liverpool, but it is a much bulkier and more bothersome splice. !The Liverpool splice is made by laying the tucking strand around the same standing part strand and the most common one found on sailing ships. !
Turning in a Liverpool style wire rope eye-splice is a lot easier than it appears at first. The paramount thing to remember is to distort the wire as little as possible. !
When splicing smaller diameter wire top under 1/2” diameter, one can get away to a degree with trying to force the splice and overpower it. The resulting splice will not be pretty, but should be functional as long as all the strands bear an even strain. !
With larger diameter wire and especially anything over 3/4” diameter, one must become a judo master and use the stiffness and truculent nature larger wire to coerce it into the position you want. !
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I will illustrate with images and narration how to turn in a Liverpool wire rope eye-splice that would satisfy the scrutiny of even the bulliest of bosuns from a hundred years ago. !
For neophytes to the brethren of the splice - the first two dozen splices should be thrown away as they will probably lack the smoothness of later efforts. Like many other arcane marlinspike arts, wire splicing is a skill that belongs in repertoire of every traditional sailor and especially bosun.
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Once again, an excellent source of written background on this skill is the Rigger’s Apprentice, by Brion Toss.
Many sailors have asked me what is in my ditty bag and what tools do I prefer to use when splicing wire rope. !
My favorite tool is a marline spike made from an antique cabinet makers screwdriver. I simply filed down the slotted blade and fabricated a handle from Lignum Vitae. !
I am very partial to Drew spikes and sailmaker prickers. !
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My ditty bag and some of my
splicing tools
My favorite marline spike
The Liverpool eye splice illustrated in this tutorial was turned in by me several years ago. It was made from 3/8” galvanized extra improved plow steel 6 x 19
with an internal wire rope center.
The Liverpool Eye Splice !
~ Photographic Primer ~
Introduction
I am often asked what is the difference between splicing rope and wire. There is a pretty big difference between wire and fiber splicing. Splicing wire rope “Liverpool” style is more like a "sailmaker's eye splice" in fiber rope that is tucked “with the lay.” !
A Liverpool splice is always turned in with the lay. The only drawback to splicing with the lay is the splice can “un-work” itself and pull out the tucks if the eye is allowed to rotate around. On almost all application for running and standing rigging aboard ship this is not a problem, but if the splice is for a cargo whip or for hauling aloft personnel - an Admiralty or locked splice should be employed. !
When turning in an Admiralty eye splice it is done against the lay -very much like a fiber splice… but that is for another video. Admiralty splices are a bit of a handful to turn in, still not as bad as trying to splice 1x19 wire.
I hope only to add some of the tricks and techniques that I have developed over the years splicing wire rope on several historic sailing ship sailing ships and modern replica vessels. !
This is a photo of myself splicing up a new leech wire to be roped onto a new upper topsail on the iron barque Star of India in San Diego, one of the finest ship restorations in the world and a great group of people. I always enjoy visiting her and getting my hands tarry while rigging with her crew. !
The leech rope on the Star of India’s upper topsail has a chain break in it to help facilitate “breaking” the leech while furling.
The Set Up
It is my firm and ardent belief that wire rope eye splices should be done in the vertical plane and not horizontal. !
The reason for this is as follows: !
• Less workshop space is required. !
• Better visibility of the operation - entire circumference is visible while tucking. !
• Do not need to let go of the spike as is required when splicing horizontally. !
• Wire can be set up in a common bench or blacksmith vice and stretched vertically.
Measuring for thimble service
The “+” marking is the centerline of the crown of the thimble on the finished mainstay of a Tahiti ketch. This finished length is 26' 00”. Since the other end has already been spliced, this eye splice will need to account for the 3/4" shortening of the finished length caused by the “bulge” of the splice. !
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Since the diameter of the wire rope at the tucks of the splice is increased, the corresponding length gets shorter by 3/4"; using this 3/8” diameter wire rope. I determined this 3/4" length when I spliced the other end earlier. !
This is critical when using bottle screws or turnbuckles and not as critical when using dead eyes.
Marriage of strands
The wire is set up in the splicing vice with the standing part on the right and the working end on the left. This allows for the splice to be made "with the lay". This is contrary to splicing fiber rope which is spliced against the lay.
standing partworking end
right hand lay
Setting the thimble
Before putting the final squeeze on the set up, give the thimble a tap to set it in the bight. You can also use a piece of round stock or a screw driver to lever the thimble down onto the service by placing the tip under the acme threads of the jaws and pushing down with the handle. !!!Failure to set the thimble can make for a loose thimble after the splice is finished. If you have a "loose" thimble after splicing, try running a stranded piece of marlin or seine twine down under the lip of the thimble and trim the loose ends of the twine.
Strand # 6 and why is it first?
Strand #6 is the first strand to be tucked, as so aptly explained by Brion Toss in his book " The Rigger's Apprentice” - be sure to pick up a copy. It is a very informative and a must have book.
~even if Brion insists on splicing horizontally~ !
# 6 is just "peeking" out at you and will usually be the closest strand to the standing part.
standing partworking end
#6#1
#6
#1#2
#3#4
#5
#6#1
core
note: strands laid up clockwise when viewing cross section from above.
First tuck !
Strand # 6 enters the standing at approximately 9:00 and goes under 2 strands of the standing part on the "backside"; or behind the heart (core) of the wire. The most important thing is to not force the strand by bending it down after rolling it home. !
Depending on how the bight is formed and where the service ends on the "helix" of the wire, strand # 6 may enter the standing part anywhere from 8:00 to 10:00 on the diagram. The most important thing is to avoid too much distortion.
note: strands laid up clockwise when viewing cross section from above.
# 6 spike entry !
The marlingspike enters at about 9:00 (at the end of the service) on the standing part and under two strands. Since the tucking strands are in the way, I am following the entry point spiral up to a position that I can enter the spike. more comfortably. !
Remember that the position of the marlingspike mimics the placement and position of the "tucking" strand. In this case strand # 6 when it is rolled home.
I have rolled the spike one revolution away from the entry point at the end of the service. !
Helix strand # 6 around the standing part with the lay and enter toward the tip of the spike. To accomplish this I pass another spike below the working spike (to keep the hole open) and pull out the working spike and reinsert it the other way so I am passing the end of # 6 toward the tip of the spike. !
Picture the entry at the end of the service. The tip would pass into the contline with the handle facing us and the tip pointed away. Look at the spike in this photo - notice the tip is facing us. That is because I repositioned the spike as described.
original entry between #4 & #5 on standing part
#6 tucking strand
#6 tucking strand
original entry between #4 & #5 on standing part
#6 tucking strand
#6 tucking strand
original entry between #4 & #5 on standing part
#1
#2#3
#4#5
#6#1
#2#3
#4#5
#6 tucking strand
#6 tucking strand
Forming the bight #6 !
The spike has just been rolled up the wire approximately 1 & 1/4 turns (rotations). Strand # 6 is passed under the spike from the handle toward the point. !
This is the only time a tucking strand is passed "away" from the point. On all other tucks the tucking strand is passed toward the point and under the spike. !
Notice the nice easy bight that I have formed with the tucking strand before pulling and snapping it into place in the next photo.
Remember to pull the spike after the wire is passed and re-enter the wire. Or you could pull and shift the working spike as described on provious section.
Snapping home #6 !
The spike rolls up the standing part one & a quarter turns and strand # 6 is passed under the spike, through the standing part. !
Notice that I have removed the spike and re-entered it so the "point” of the spike is leading the handle. The tucking strand has also been snapped into place. Notice how it hugs the standing part in a tight helix. !
Now the strand is also in the proper passed toward the point orientation. Strands are always passed to the point of the spike and by re-spiking the rule can be followed with the first tuck of # 6. The reason for this on # 6 is the blocked entry as discussed earlier. By passing to the point, the duckbill of the point can be manipulated as a smoothing or cleaving tool, once the strand is seated.
flat or duckbill of spike
knife edge or side of spike
Rolling home #6 !
Roll the strand home by "pushing" it ahead of the spike. Let the spike help push the strand down and avoid really pulling on the strand to seat it. Also, use as little of the spike as possible to avoid distorting the wire of the standing part. !
Keep the angle of the marline spike as close to the lay angle of the wire and avoid having the spike horizontal, which distorts the lay. !
Distortion is anathema to a splice !
Keep the spike at an angle, trying to match the angle of the lay, and avoid pushing the handle down causing the spike to go more horizontal. This simple technique helps to keep the distortion down..
Rolling home # 6 continued !
The only time the spike goes horizontal is on the first tuck of # 6 to really seat it firmly against the thimble.
Rolling home #6 !
Roll the strand home by "pushing" it ahead of the spike. Let the spike help push the strand down and avoid from really pulling on the strand. Also use as little of the spike as possible to avoid distorting the wire of the standing part. !
Keep the spike at an angle, trying to match the angle of the lay, and avoid pushing the handle down causing the spike to go more horizontal. This simple technique helps to keep the distortion down..
Seating # 6 cont. !
Seating # 6 down into the standing part, as detailed in previous step, is not the end of the tuck. !
Keep the spike in the lay - do not pull it out. !
After the strand is seated, roll the spike up 1 full rotation before removing it. This will help relieve some of the tension and distortion that is introduced every time a wire is tucked. !
It really works - kinda like breaking your knuckles. !
note: this initial tuck of strand # 6 does not count as a full “tuck” - it serves as a fairleader to allow for a short nip and not a long lay for # 6 to follow from the thimble and end of the service.
…now on to Strand # 1 - # 3
Un-laying strand # 1 !
The cavity where # 6 tucking strand was. Strand #1 is to the left of the void and #5 is to the right of the void. Remember the wire is laid up clockwise or "with the Sun" as the old Shellbacks used to say.
#6 void
#1#5
Spike entry for #1 !
Spike entry for tucking strand #1. The spike is entered under 3 strands of the standing part and on the other side of the heart from #6. Notice that the heart of the standing part is between the spike and tucking strand #6.
Tucking #1 !
Strand #1 enters at the same contline as #6 and is tucked under 3 strands on the standing part. !
Be sure to squeeze the heart by passing #1 on the near side and # 6 on the backside of the heart or core.
Tucking Strands Standing Part
Contline - valley between crowns of strands
Seating strand #1 !
Strand #1 seated . !
By twisting the spike one can use the flat “duck bill” side to smooth the strand or the spike turned to present a knife edge to help manipulate the strand home.
Rolling out the spike !
Rolling the spike up the standing part before removing it to tuck the next strand. Rolling the spike up 1 revolution will improve many a splice by relieving the distortion and stress as mentioned earlier..
Tucking strand # 2 !
Strand # 2 enters at the same spot as # 6 and # 1 and exits clockwise from where # 1 left the standing part - or under two strands on the standing part. !
Notice how the splice is really two clockwise rotating disks. !
As long as you can remember that #6 enters the standing part at around 9:00 and goes under 2 strands, everything else is just the next exit clockwise on the standing part. !
This means that for # 1 to exit at the next contline clockwise from # 6 on the standing part, it HAS to go under three strands.
note: # 1 & # 2 are on the near side of the core or heart and # 6 is on the far side.
Spike entry for #2 !
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Spike entered under two strands on the standing part for tucking # 2. !
Strand # 2 enters in the same contline as # 6 and #1 and stays on the same side of the heart as # 1. Remember # 2 exits the standing part, one contline over clockwise from the exit of # 1. !
Roll spike up, pass # 2 tucking strand, and roll home as for # 1.
#1
#2
#6
#3#4
#5
Tucking strand # 3 !
Tucking strand # 3. The strand enters at the same place as # 6, # 2, and # 1 and goes under one strand, exiting one contline over clockwise from the exit point of strand # 2. !
Always clockwise.
Spike entry for # 3 !
Spike entered for tucking strand # 3.
Spike entry for # 3 !
Spike entered for tucking strand # 3. #6
#1
#2
#3
#4#5
#3
The heart or core !
Strand # 3 rolled home and seated. Notice the heart from the tucking part that will be rolled into the body of the splice next. !
Remember that # 6, # 1, # 2, # 3 all enter at the same spot, or contline, and radiate clockwise from # 6’s exit on the standing part. Also notice how # 3 is at 6:00 when looking at the splice in plan view. !
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# 6 under two # 1 under three # 2 under two # 3 under one
Rolling in the heart
Rolling in the heart !
Rolling the heart up the standing part. !
Enter your spike, as if you were going to tuck # 4, and lever the heart around to the backside of the spike. !
Using as little spike as possible, roll the spike up the standing, keeping the heart strand ahead of the spike. This will cause the spike to push the heart into the center of the standing part and lay alongside the standing part heart. Let the spike do the work - just keep a little tension on the heart !
Also notice how strands # 1, 2, & 3 form a chevron design. They should look like a 3 fingered salute with no bowing or large gaps.
heart
I always roll the core or heart into the body of the splice. This helps to prevent a “hollow” spot from forming at # 4 & 5 on the standing part. !
On real ornery wire or larger wire, above 3/4” diameter, I will often unlay the heart into several groups of wires and roll this gang of wires as a group. I will plait fiber core in larger wire for the same reason - to create as little distortion as possible - the key to a good splice.
The heart rolled in !
The heart rolled up or as Brion Toss, ever the romantic says "two hearts beating as one”, but Brion probably got it from Steve Hyman…the rigger in “Rigger’s Apprentice”. !
Steve is a master rigger and his rig in the 1877 barque ELISSA is pure poetry!
Tucking strand # 4 !
Tucking strand # 4 sometimes looks a little confusing. Remember the clockwise rule. Notice how it exits the next contline over clockwise from # 3's exit. Notice that # 4 rotated clockwise around the # 4 strand in the standing part. !
Remember when passing completely around a strand, like in # 4, to always pass in an upward helix or you will end up tying a half hitch - definitely not a fun thing to do, but can be fixed.
Seating #4 !
# 4 seated and getting ready to roll the spike up and out. !
Notice the "heart" exiting up 1 rotation.
#6
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5#4
#5
#6
#1
#2
Tucking strand # 5 !
Tucking strand # 5. Once again notice that the strand enters and exits clockwise from where # 4 did. !
Once again watch out for the evil and lurking half hitch that can be formed by passing the working end under itself and not over itself. This is easy to do as the bight is generally large, if you measured out enough tail on the set up. !
A little hint is to really take a last look, before the roll the spike the last 1/4 down. If you see a mis-pass - stop and regroup. Brion gives a great method to remove a mis tucked or passed strand in his book. I find that you can usually slowly finesse and coax it out. !
Never try to overpower wire - it is stronger than you are, but not as smart!!!!
Strand # 5 seated - # 6 next !
Strand # 5 tucked and seated. Notice how the lay is slightly broken or splayed open to allow the tucking strand to wrap closely around the # 5 standing part strand. !
I will break the lay and slightly splay open the wires in the strand beginning with the first tuck of # 4 and continuing until the tapering of the strands after several full tucks.
#4
#5#6
#1
Tucking strand # 6 for "real" !
Tucking # 6 for the first time. !
The initial entry of # 6 under two strands at the beginning was done ONLY to create a fair lead and less of a stretch or long lay for # 6. !
Look at the backside of a splice and if that first fair lead tuck wasn't done, # 6 will reach from the arse of the thimble a good length before diving into the standing part. This is a sure way to have # 6 not bear a full load under tension at the same time as the other strands. !
This usually ends up with a loose tuck that is not going to share the load evenly with the other tucks.
# 6 seated and rolled out !
# 6 tucked and rolled home. !
Notice the No. 1 on the blue tape to tell us that one full round of tucks have been taken. !
There is another way - a more sailorly way to tell how many tucks have been made, and I will explain that later on in the lesson.
Second round of tucks
Tucking # 1 for second round of tucks !
Tucking # 1 and trying to keep the bight horizontal or slightly down. The bight naturally wants to rise up, which tightens the lay slightly. By palming it down, as the wire is pulled and snapped into place, the lay becomes more relaxed. !
My left hand, which is out of frame, is pulling the wire, closing the bight.
#1 tucking strand
#1 second tuck !
Tucking strand # 1 for the beginning of the second round of tucks. !
Real important tip: Notice how I am manipulating the bight by slightly bending it towards itself. This helps relax and open the lay for the final seating of the tuck by the spike. I always break the lay slightly before passing the strand under the spike. !
This trick helps out if that initial breaking of the lay was not enough. Conversely, if you notice the lay is getting too loose as you roll the spike home, bend the bight away from itself and the lay will close up. !
We will do four full rounds of tucks on all strands and then start to taper for two additional rounds of tucks. This makes for a strong and elegant splice.
Splice so far !
Looking at the right hand side of the splice after tucking strand # 1 for the second time and getting ready to deal with the heart. !
After tucking strand # 1, pull the heart down to where it just exits the standing part but keep it to the right (counter clockwise) from where # 4 exits. !
I usually cut out the core before the second tuck of # 4. If the core is flexible or if it is fiber, I will sometimes run it up further into the splice. On wire below 1/2” though, I usually cut the heart out just beyond where the second tuck of # 4 will land. This keeps the heart locked into place and prevents the hollow from forming as previously mentioned.
#1 second tuck
#2#3
#4
#5#6
heart (core)
Cut the heart out !
Cut the heart about half of a lay length. In this case it is about one & half inches long. Do not distort or bend the heart to cause it to form a memory. It should point straight up alongside the standing part after it is cut. !
For this wire, 7x7, I did not tape the end before cutting, since 7x7 construction is pretty stable and stiff. When splicing 6x19, 7x19, or higher constructions, using tape is a good idea to prevent the end from splaying when cut.
Heart is cut out !
The cut heart, waiting to be rolled into the standing part. Notice how it is to the right of where strand # 4 exits the contline. !
Rolling the heart inside the standing part helps to prevent the awful "hollow" that sometimes occurs when # 4 is tucked. !
It helps to keep the rounding of the body of the splice more symmetrical and therefore stronger.
heart (core)
Heart rolled home into standing part
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Gently enter the spike as if you were going to tuck strand # 4 and easily roll the cut off heart into the splice. !
This is the same technique that you used when rolling up the un-cut heart earlier.
heart
heart cut ends
Second round of tucks for # 1, 2, & 3 !
Remember that after the marriage and first set of tucks, the tucking strands are always tucked in a spiral that wraps around the same standing part strands. !
In other words, # 1 tucking strand always spiral wraps around # 1 in standing part, etc.
#1
#2
#3 standing strand
heart cut end
#3 standing strand
#3 tucking strand - note spiral around
standing strand
Breaking the lay !
Forming an overhand bight to gently break the lay of strand # 4 before tucking it. By slowly closing the circumference of the bight, while trying to keep the bight parallel to the deck, the lay opens up. !
If the lay does not open up after closing the bight, try rotating the bight counterclockwise. Pretend the bight is your car key in the ignition and slowly and easily turn it over to the left or counter-clockwise. !
When you release the bight, the lay should remain opened up slighty where the strand leaves the contline of the wire. !
Side view of # 3 ~ second tuck !
Side view of strand # 3 tucked and rolled home. Notice how the working ends are pointing upward. This helps the wire of the tucking strand to wrap smoothly around it's standing part strand. !
If the wires are trying to poke your eye out this is good. It just means to remember to wear safety glasses. !
Also, notice that by keeping the wires angled up and not bending them down, as is a common mistake, the lay angle of the tucking strand matches the lay angle of the standing part strand. On a first rate splice it is hard to tell the individual wires apart as they wrap around the parent strand.
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
#1
#6
#4
#3#2#5
#4 ~ second round !
Breaking the lay a little more on strand # 4 since the lay was not broken enough by the "closing bight" method. !
Here I have gently bent the tucking strand #4 to the left while trying to hold it in as upward a position as possible. I have even use the spike as a fulcrum to help open and mold the lay. !
Whatever you do DO NOT BEND IT DOWNWARD !!! !
This is a common trap to fall into as the lay will open up nicely but the strand will never wrap tightly around the standing part.
#4 seated ~ second round of tucks !
Strand # 4 tucked.
#6 wrapped around ~ 2nd round !
-using the knife edge of the spike to help push and wrap strand #6. !
Keep the handle of the spike as upright as possible and rotate the spike around the #6 standing part strand. !
It is almost like a karate chop and then a caress to help the # 6 tucking strand wrap around the inside face of # 6 standing strand. !
After seating the strand, use the duckbill face of the spike to mold and smooth the wires of the tucking strand. Smooth is both beautiful and strong.
#6 being seated ~ 2nd round !
Here the spike knife edge is cleaving the tucking strand # 6 to help the wire "yarns" wrap around the inside edge of the standing strand - the karate chop
#6 tucking strand - note tip of spike cleaving into
wires of the strand.
#6 fully seated ~ 2nd round !
Tucking Strand # 6 to complete the second full round of tucks. After using the knife edge of the spike, I am settling the inside wires by rotating the duckbill face of the spike in a smoothing motion. !
The distortion on #6 just under the spike is fairly normal on #6 due to the contortions the wire makes when it goes under the 2 strands at the initial marriage. It can be corrected somewhat by using the spike and standing part strand as a fulcrum and gently bending the tucking strand upward and to the left. to reform the lay. !
With this much distortion, I will reform the lay to prevent any kinking or problems on later rounds of tucks.
The distortion on #6 just under the spike is fairly normal on #6 due to the contortions the wire makes when it goes under the 2 strands at the initial marriage. !It can be corrected somewhat by using the spike and standing part strand as a fulcrum and gently bending the tucking strand upward and to the left. to reform the lay. !With this much distortion, I will reform the lay to prevent any kinking or problems on later rounds of tucks.
#6
#6
#2
#3
#1
#4
#5
On to round 3 - but first INTERMISSION !
2 full rounds of tucks made. Another 2 full rounds of tucks will be made before the taper begins. !
While you are learning the splice, using blue tape with tick marks or Roman numerals will help keep track of the total number of “full tucks”
INTERMISSION !
By now you are probably bleeding with your brain melting inside your skull. !
Grab some band aids and think how nice it must be in the South Seas… sailing
Strand #1 fourth tuck !
note: third round of tucks proceed as with second round and are not shown. !
Strand #1 has just been tucked for the fourth time. !
Notice that the blue tape will read 3 complete tucks until strand # 6 has been tucked for the fourth time.
Side view of fourth tuck of strand # 1 Strand # 1 has just been tucked for the fourth time.
Which strand is tucked next? !
The following photo describes how to read the splice to answer the question “which strand gets tucked next?” If you step away from a splice for a little while it is easy to lose your place. The blue tape only tells how many complete rounds of tucks have been made, not which strand gets tucked next.. !
The entry for strand # 3 is usually very obvious, since it is at the centerline between the horizontal jaws of the vice and is the top strand in the three strand chevron. Counting in an upward helix (clockwise as we go up the wire) leads us to strand # 2 -# 3 - # 4 - # 5 - # 6 - # 1- # 2 - then back to # 3 again. This pattern always repeated. !
Since the last strand tucked is ALWAYS the highest in the upward helix and the lowest one is the next strand to be tucked. The splice is built from the vice up. !
Remember: Top - next tuck --- Bottom - last tuck !
Since # 1 is the lowest and therefore the next strand to be tucked, I have completed another full circuit of tucks. Since the blue tape is showing four rounds of tucks, I can start tapering the splice.
#6
#2
#3
#1
#4
#5
#2
#1
#3
#2
#1 (last strand tucked)
#3
#4
By now it should be apparent that the splice is built “clockwise” and away from the vice jaws. !Starting at # 3, one can count upward and discover how many tucks have been made. !note: the highest tucking strand on the “helix” of the splice is the last one tuck and the next one to be tucked is the lowest. !Looking at this photo, one can tell that # 1 (highest) was the last one tucked and # 2 is the nedt one to be tucked ( lowest).
Tapering a strand !
Since 7x7 wire construction has seven individual wires in each strand, I will remove two wires or almost 1/3 from the trailing edge of the strand # 1 at the exit. !
If this was 6 or 7x19 construction, I would remove six wires (1/3). !
It is important to remove the trailing wires to avoid creating a lumpy distortion as the remaining wire tries to pass smoothly over the dropped out wires.
taper 2 wires
Tapering !
Another view of the two wires dropped that will not be tucked again.
Tapering continued !
I usually taper all the strands at one time and then pull them down. This is the only time I pull wires down. I also use a round turn of electrical tape "rigger's helper" to help secure the wires out of the way. !
Once this is done, the fifth round of tucks using the tapered strands can begin.
Breaking the lay on a tapered strand !
By this time in the splice, the lay strand is pretty well broken, in fact sometimes it is over done . !
To reform and smooth out the strand, gently work it to the left and against the lay. It usually doesn't take much, so go easy.
Tucking a tapered strand !
Tucking the tapered strands is identical to tucking full strands, except try to really use as little spike as possible. Here strand # 6 is being smooth out after tucking it. I know that it is # 6 because all the other "dropped wires" don't have their parent strands next to them anymore.
Five full rounds of tucks !
After a full round tucking the tapered strands, the blue tape is marked with a 5. !
The splice is now almost done. If this was 3/4" diameter or larger wire rope, I would taper another 1/3 of the strands and tuck them again. Instead, I will do a "West Coast" or staggered tuck to finish off the splice as shown in the next photo. !
Notice the pulled down dropped wires and the working strands still angling upward.
West Coast taper !
Every other strand will be tucked again. I usually like to tuck strand #2, #4, #6 again to form the final taper. !
In larger diameter wire you may want to drop out a few wires to taper the strand further, but this 3/8" wire doesn't require it.
2 - 4 - 6 final tuck !
Strands # 2, # 4, and # 6 tucked for the final time. !
Notice how strands # 1, # 3, & # 5 have been pulled down and secured with electrical tape to keep them out of the way.
Unlay wires in strand !
I prefer to trim the strand ends by starting at the top of the splice (the last tuck of # 6) and trim going down. !
First start by unlaying the strand wires as shown.
unlay wires
Breaking the wire !
With this 7x7 construction the wire can be broken off quite cleanly by hand. Besides, by this stage of the splice you are probably bleeding and want to take it out on the wire. What better way than by breaking its arms - all forty two of them. !
Take an individual wire and rotate it clockwise, trying to set up a twisting motion at the contline. It is a similar motion to twisting off a chicken drumstick.
Twisting continued !
!
Keep twisting the wire by rotating it around. After a little practice, the wire will break off before even 1 full rotation. Don't worry if in the beginning you make a couple of rotations, it will get easier. !
This only works on 6x7 and 7x7 construction where the individual wires have a large cross sectional shape. !
On other constructions (6x19, etc.) a wire cutter, hacksaw, triangular file, angle grinder with cut off disk, etc is needed. !
You are still wearing those safety glasses right?
The broken ends !
!
The ends should break off either in the contline or just above it.
More trimming… !
Down to the initial taper with the trimming of the wire ends. The splice is almost done. !
You may find that it is easier to break the ends off if the un-laying stick is removed. !
This causes the lay of the wire rope to tighten up and grip the tapered ends better.
Trimming complete !
The trimming is now complete. The only thing to do now is remove the splice from the vice and pound it fair with a mallet. !
Remember to un due the un-laying stick to avoid the splice from spinning out of the vice. The next step is to fairing out the splice on a stump of wood. Use a piece of wood and a copper or lead mallet to fair the splice and not damage the galvanizing. !
Speaking of galvanizing, you will probably observe a lot of zinc dandruff or snow on top of the vice. This was caused by the rolling of the spike chafing off particles of zinc and can not be avoided. This is why it is very important to slush, worm, parcel, and serve the splice. !
The next few slides show more of this finished splice.
Backside of splice
Side view
Front view of marriage !
Here is a good visual of the three strand chevron that strands #1, #2, and #3 form.
Side view !
!
Back side of splice !
Here is a view of the back side of the splice. Notice strand #6 and how it is under 2 strands. !
If it wasn't under those 2 strands at the marriage, it would have a very long reach to its entry point.
#6 when tucked under two at start - “a short nip”.
#6 would start here !
and travel a “long lay” to enter here if not tucked
under two at start.
Finished served splice !
note: I apply a canvas or linen “butterfly” under the service at the crotch of the
splice to help shed water from the heart of the splice
Liverpool eye splice gallery
Finished leach rope splice !Finished leach rope splice. This was made in 7/8" wire rope and incorporates 3 links of chain that serve as a leach break. !Since furling a sail with this diameter wire leach rope is difficult, this chain break was used like a hinge to help fold over the leach when furling. !After being served it will be used by Mr. Jim Brink, one of the premier if not best traditional square rig sail makers on the planet. Jim built all the sails used in all 4 Pirates of the Caribbean and “Master and Commander” movies. His work is also seen aboard the ELISSA, Star of India, HMS Surprise, and many other square-riggers.
1863 barque Star of India
1896 barque Glenlee
1904 barque Moshulu
I hope this tutorial will be beneficial to those sailors and riggers who would like to learn this traditional marlingspike skill. Like any learned craft, you must have patience and accept that the first couple of dozen wire rope splices will not be ones a bosun will cast an approving eye upon and voice a “well done”, but do not despair. !
Persevere in your craft and this skill will be one that you will be proud of and any ship would welcome. !
During my wonderful time aboard the 1886 three masted full rigged ship Balclutha as a rigger and later as Historic Ships Rigger Foreman, I learned many things from my shipmates and especially from the late Karl Kortum, master rigger Steve Hyman and Chris “Tarbrush” Jannini ~ foremost among them was “Do it right, then you got something”.
Copyright © 2014 by Jamie White All rights reserved.