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Life Well Travelled

Hong KongDaily adventures from the city we call home.

Copyright Information: Copyright © 2016 by Cathay Pacific Airways Limited

To help see the city of Hong Kong with fresh eyes, we invited Zane Cooper and Wan Lin Wong, a photographer and marketing professional, to visit. Both have extensive experience traveling the world, but oddly enough, neither one had ever been to Hong Kong. Until now. Join them as they explore the city we’re proud to call home.

旅行者簡介: 我們請來攝影師Zane Cooper及市場營銷精英黄琬琳以新觀點、新角度看香港。他們的旅遊經驗豐富，足跡遍及世界，卻從未到過香港。現在，就讓我們跟隨他們的步伐，一起探索這個城市這個家。

About the travelers

OUR STORY IS AN IMMERSIVE, INTERACTIVE EXPERIENCE that brings to life the adventures of two travelers in Hong Kong. As you read, you’ll be greeted by different icons along the way. Explore to hear sounds. Learn important travel information such as weather, culture, and history. You can watch videos. Open maps. Even book flights. We hope you enjoy the trip.

如何使用本書: 這個故事猶如親臨其境的互動體驗，活現了兩位旅行者在香港的歷奇。閱讀途中，你會遇上各具特色的符號標記、探索不同的聲音、了解重要的旅遊資訊如天氣、文化和歷史；你更可以觀看視頻、打開地圖，甚至預訂機票。我們誠盼你樂享這個精彩旅程。

VIDEO AUDIO MAP WEATHER FLIGHT INFORMATION

To celebrate our 70th anniversary, we’re bringing Hong Kong to life through its people, iconic places, and proud history. It’s an amazing city we know well and one we’re proud to call home. Come and explore it with us.

為慶祝國泰航空70週年，我們藉著這裏的人與地，和輝煌的歷史，活現香港獨有的生命力──一個了不起的、親切的、讓我們自豪的家的城市。快來和我們一起探索

Life Well Travelled

Hong Kong

10,000 BUDDHAS MONASTERY

AN EVENING ON THE BAY

香港

SHOPPING

THE PEOPLE OF HONG KONG

NIGHTLIFE

HONG KONG ARCHITECTURE

KAM SHAN COUNTRY PARK

TEMPLE STREET

CHIU CHOW CUISINE

CHUEN LUNG VILLAGE

MAN MO TEMPLE

J PLUS HOTEL BY YOO

ABERDEEN WHOLESALE FISH MARKET

LANTAU ISLAND

TAI O STILT HOUSES

CHEUNG CHAU PIRATE CAVE

RANDOM DISCOVERIES

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Floating through clouds10:00 am | Lantau Island

It’s 10:00 am, and the rain is falling steadily. But we’re too excited to care. Today we’re heading to Lantau Island to see the sights, one of which is the iconic Tian Tan Buddha. We’re lucky because the weather has kept the crowds down, and we have our own cable car to take us up the mountain. From ground level we begin our ascent upward, and the higher we get, the better and better the

view becomes. One of our colleagues is slightly afraid of heights, and in retrospect, paying a little extra for the glass‐bottom cabin might not have been a wise idea. For the rest of us, it’s nothing short of amazing. Several hundred feet above the water, we bisect clouds and enter the lush green world of Lantau Island.

大嶼山

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The ride is a little rocky, as the wind blows the car more than we’d care for. We exit the cable car cabin after a 20-minute breathtaking journey, our legs a little wobbly from the trip. Walking through the gate, we’re greeted by some local cows who are presumably on their way to see the Buddha. We pass through a collection of shops selling trinkets to tourists, and then beyond, a giant

staircase where the climb to meet the Tian Tan Buddha begins. The Buddha is one of the five largest ones in China, and surrounding it are six smaller statues known as the Offering of the Six Devas. Each one represents the six perfections (generosity, morality, patience, zeal, meditation, and wisdom), all of which are necessary for enlightenment. The statue stands 112 feet in height and was built

from over 202 individual bronze pieces. There are three halls behind the statue, and to reach them, we must climb one final spiral staircase. At the top we find the Halls of the Universe, Benevolent Merit, and Remembrance. In the Hall of Remembrance we’ve heard there’s a relic of Gautama Buddha, a bone fragment from his cremated remains. Only visitors who purchase an offering of the Buddha

are allowed to see it. We’ve made the offering and are now face-to-face with an important piece of spiritual history. It’s both humbling and inspiring and gets us thinking. After being so high off the ground, it’s odd to think our next stop will have us going in the complete opposite direction.

Top: Main entrance to Ngong Ping Piazza Bottom Left: Offering of the Six Devas Statues Bottom Right: Tian Tan Buddha Top: Po Lin Monastery Bottom Left: Lantau Island from cable car Bottom Right: View from Tian Tan Buddha pedestal

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大澳

Life on the water2:30 pm | Tai O Fishing Village

Leaving the grandeur of the Tian Tan Buddha behind, we opt to take a bus to our next destination, a 45-minute bus ride down to the edge of Tai O harbor in Lantau. But we’re not finished traveling yet. We’re catching a boat to tour the floating villages of Tai O. The village is proof positive humans can find a way to live in almost any environment. In a

world covered by water, the locals have found an ingenious solution to build their homes on stilts, and as we board, we can see them off in the distance. The ship captain has been living in the area for many years and tells us a bit about his life growing up here long before Hong Kong became the cosmopolitan city it is today.

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He carefully navigates our boat through the main inlet. House after house line the sides. Once there were over 20,000 stilt homes here, but times change. Fewer and fewer residents wanted to make the long commute into Hong Kong where most of the work is. Commuting distance aside, we learn there are some distinct advantages to living here. It turns out

older generations are allowed to live essentially free and need only pay a tiny yearly fee to maintain a license for their home. Not a bad way to keep your living costs down, and every window has a water view. Existing so close to the water can take a toll on any manmade object, and the homes here require constant maintenance to survive.

Left: Boat tour pilot Top: Onboard the boat tour of Tai O Stilt Village


Sailing on, we travel further up the inlet and then loop around to where the boat picked us up. Strolling the well-lined streets, we pass merchants selling fish, spices, and local agriculture. Here, space is at a premium, making it not uncommon to see commercial and residential areas side by side. It’s probably not exactly how

a classically trained urban planner would do it, but in a way, it makes perfect sense: people working and living together as best they can within their surroundings. Every culture could learn something from that.

Top: Tai O Dry Market Right: Tai O as seen from the water


川龍村

Time for tea10:30 am | Chuen Lung Tsuen Village

A trip to Hong Kong wouldn’t be complete without taking a moment to enjoy some tea at a local teahouse. The best, we’ve been told, is in Chuen Lung Tsuen Village in Tai Mo Shan. Set in the mountains outside of Hong Kong, the windy road leading there twists and turns like a serpent. The reference seems fitting in light of the fact that Chuen Lung

Tsuen loosely translates to “dragon steam village,” no doubt in part because of the mist and fog that surround it. A 20-minute ride on a bus out of Kowloon, the village gets more rainfall than anywhere else in the city. As a result, it’s one of the few agricultural areas left in Hong Kong, making it a lush oasis on the


border of an otherwise thoroughly modern city. The teahouse and restaurant we are visiting, Choi Lung, is the oldest and perhaps most popular in the area. Today the crowds are small, but on the weekends, the line can spill out into the street. Here you can pick your brew from four different types of loose teas readily available in large, overflowing

bins. The village built itself up around a beautiful, clear mountain stream, and we’ve been told the water used for the tea comes from there and has been made that way for centuries. A wonderful tradition and a great way to keep the restaurant’s water bill down. Allowing the tea to brew for a few moments, we look around the

Left: On Kee Store Top: A local enjoying some Dim Sum - Choi Lung Tea House


homey, comfortable space. There are trays of dim sum waiting to be enjoyed, and if we didn’t already have lunch plans, we’d be ready to partake. Locals serve themselves as the kitchen staff busily keeps the trays full. All the while, the call of a rather curious-sounding bird punctuates the air from his cage

over in the corner. It turns out owning a pet bird is quite popular in Hong Kong, and upstairs on the roof, many villagers have congregated together with their pet birds. As they play Mahjong, their feathered friends watch as silent sentry. One can only wonder if the birds know how to keep score. Finally ready to enjoy,

the tea is as good as advertised, and the birds are a fun treat as well. But in the Year of the Monkey, there’s an animal we’re going to see next that’s perhaps a little more esteemed this year.


金山郊野公園

Meeting new friends1:15 pm | Kam Shan Country Park

Since 2016 is the Year of the Monkey, we figure Monkey Hill at Kam Shan Country Park might be a good place to see more of them in their natural habitat.

Established in 1977 and located in the ranges north of Kowloon, it covers an area roughly 1.3 square miles, and it may very well be one of the largest parks in

the world dedicated to monkeys. Beyond meeting a furry friend or two, people come here to picnic and take in the panoramic views of the city.

While they don’t make much noise, it’s clear from the dozens we see on our drive up to the park that we are going


to see some monkeys. Tons and tons of monkeys. And not just any kind of monkey. Macaques. Clustering together in little family troops, they hang out all day together. Almost as if in a back-massage train queue, they sit in line grooming each other all day long, broken up by the occasional nap or run up the local mango tree for some provisions. Local lore suggests they were in private collections and released by owners to the site in the 1920s, and it’s clear from the over 1,800 of them that live here today that they’ve done quite well.A word to the wise: Watch your food

and drink at all times. These creatures are quite comfortable being around people. In fact, it is absolutely amazing how close we can get without causing them any concern, making us feel an odd combination of curious and cautious. We could spend many more hours watching these happy little macaques, but like any good monkey knows, there’s always something new to explore.

Top: Macaques embrace Right: Monkey perches atop a shed (Tai Po Rd)


J Plus 精品酒店

Finding some R&R5:15 pm | J Plus Hotel by Yoo

When you spend many hours traveling, it’s essential to have a comfortable destination at the end of a long day. Every traveler knows this, but in a new city, finding that perfect hotel to call your temporary home can be a challenge. We’d heard about a newer option in Hong Kong called the J Plus

Hotel by YOO, and we’re excited to go check it out. The concierge greets us warmly, and as we walk into the lobby, it becomes abundantly clear that this hotel is unlike any we’ve ever stayed at. Less of a hotel and more of an art gallery,


we weave our roller bags through the works of prominent artists from all over the world as we approach the front desk. We pass a magnificent installation created by the artist Fin DAC featuring murals from all over the world printed on bamboo. Checking in moves us mere feet from several signature Philippe

Starck pieces. As the original interior designer, this makes sense, but we can tell he’s not treating this as a passing hobby. The art here is serious and meant to be explored, and to this point, every three months, the hotel is collaborating with different artists to showcase new pop-up art exhibitions. The guest rooms

are just as artistic as the larger hotel is. Colorful, adventurous, and elegant, a quiet oasis from the noise of surrounding Hong Kong. Utterly fatigued from a busy day, it’s almost time to turn in, but missing out on seeing the night side of Hong Kong would be a mistake. So we resolve to do a quick pub crawl, knowing

full well it’ll probably end up much later before long.

Top and Bottom Left: J Plus by YOO lobby Bottom Right: One of the many friendly staff members Top: Fin DAC art installation Bottom Left: J Plus by YOO Lobby Bottom Right: The finer nuances of art and comfort


香港九龍

Time for a nightcap9:00 pm to 12:00 am | Kowloon and Hong Kong

There is an energy that comes to Hong Kong when the sun goes down. For fun-seeking locals and travelers, that energy is best enjoyed via a night out on the town. The hundreds of nightclubs, pubs, and an eclectic restaurant scene help bring it to life. More than a little red-eyed from a long day, we’re determined to put in a few hours tonight to check it all out.

Our first stop is Ozone, where the expert mixologists are said to make legendary cocktails in a sleek, sophisticated setting. Located at the top of The Ritz-Carlton hotel in Kowloon, Ozone is perhaps the bar with the highest elevation in the world. Taking an elevator up 120 floors, the doors open,


and we instantly feel underdressed. This is the place people go to see and be seen. We approach the translucent bar and scan a multitude of beautifully arrayed bottles, tastefully lit. The design is meant to make you feel like you’re floating in the sky. Perhaps after a few cocktails, the effect will be fully achieved, but we have other places to visit, so for now, only one. A round of Sazeracs is ordered and served. The presentation is every bit as good as advertised. Along the bar, other drinks appear: some usual suspects like champagne cocktails and martinis, as well as others that can only be described as looking quite cosmic.

Colorful hues emanate from the glasses, thanks to specialty liquors mixed in unique ways. Despite the cooler-than-cool vibe, the staff is friendly and makes us feel welcome. We leave and head to our watering hole, a place with the extreme opposite sensibilities in another neighborhood called Lan Kwai Fong. Our next destination is known simply as The Keg and is the epitome of a Canadian bar mixed with a European pub transplanted to the middle of Asia. You walk in and feel like you’re somewhere outside Thunder Bay or have drifted down a side street in Hampstead, London. Hockey and football pendants hang prominently against a backdrop

of wood and quilted leather. Small, cozy, and unpretentious, we saddle up to the bar, grab a couple of stools, and promptly order a round of beer. Here, the feeling is light and the beer goes down easily. Their signage says they serve local Hong Kong craft beers, something we haven’t seen anywhere else before. An inch left in our pints, the hour is getting late and we’re determined to see one more spot before we turn into pumpkins, so we head to Salt LKF. Owned by a Nepalese expat, and recently opened, it’s been getting great reviews. Tucked into a backstreet alley, the bar is small, but it makes us instantly feel like it’s a locals hangout. Walking

in, we pass a DJ setting up shop for the night, catering to the twenty-something crowd that will show up long after we’ve gone to bed. We’re thousands of miles from Mexico, but the owner insists we have a shot of tequila with him. We chat for a bit and learn about the many bars he’s owned and hope this one becomes the next big thing. It sure seems like it’s well on its way. Bleary-eyed and ready for a good night’s sleep, we say good night, hoping the hotel has a few extra aspirin at the counter.

Top: The beginnings of a colorful libation Top: The Keg: A portal to the other side of the world


香港仔魚市場

First catch of the day5:15 am | Aberdeen Wholesale Fish Market

As a city surrounded by water, it’s easy to understand the symbiotic relationship Hong Kong has with fishing. Dotting the harbor’s edge are dozens of fish markets where fishermen do much the same as their forefathers did centuries before them, dutifully bringing in the catch every morning. Today we’ve set out to visit an area on the south end of Hong

Kong Island called Aberdeen. For many generations, it’s been composed of a group called “Tanka.” Often referred to as “Boat People,” they arrived in Hong Kong between the seventh and ninth and have passed down their knowledge of fishing to every generation who practices the craft today. The area


is home to one of the largest fish markets in all of Hong Kong: the Aberdeen Wholesale Fish Market. We get there before dawn, and much to our surprise, it’s already busy. Fishermen in waterproof coveralls are rapidly unloading their crates as local resellers and restaurant chefs peruse the catch to determine which ones make the cut and which are best left behind. Here you can buy almost any seafood you desire.

We pass booth after booth and see an amazing array of aquatic life. Everything from giant mantis shrimp to lobsters, snapper, sturgeon, manta rays, eels, salt fish, even octopus. It’s almost like taking a trip to an aquarium. We’re halfway down the main promenade and our shoes are soaking wet from the several inches of standing water that seems to meet every step we take.

Top: Worker wrestles with the morning catch Right: The catch comes in and the negotiating begins


Occasionally, a splash crashes over the wall of a tank as a merchant with a net scoops up abundant bounty ready to be sold. The sounds of bubbling tanks fill our ears as briny sea-salt air wafts through our sinuses. The experience leaves us feeling much more connected to the sea and the importance of living in harmony with it, something Hong Kong seems to have mastered in spades.

Top: Typical fishing boat - Aberdeen Right: Sai Ying Pun wet market vendor


萬佛寺

431 steps to enlightenment11:15 am | Sha Tin

If heaven is in the sky, logic suggests those who aspire to be there need a way to get there. At the 10,000 Buddhas Monastery, that answer comes in the form of a stairway composed of 431 steps set into the side of a mountain. It is overcast the day we visit. Not uncommon for January, but unseasonably cool, creating a surreal

context for our adventure as every breath we take hangs in the air, giving the place a supernatural air that heightens our senses. At the top of the path, the main temple emerges almost as if out of thin air: the 10,000 Buddhas Hall. The crowds are small today, giving us time to linger.


Top Left and Right: Sign and lantern Far Right: Over 500 gold statues line the 431 steps

Words hardly begin to describe the level of detail each one of the Buddhas was created with. There are over 13,000 miniature ones here, all conceived by one man, the reverend Yuet Kai. In 1949, he began work at the site. Bit by bit, he and his disciples moved the stones and building materials up the mountain, completing the effort in 1957. When

the reverend died in 1967 at the age of 87, his body was lacquered in gold-leaf paint, draped with robes, and put on display behind glass in front of the main altar, where he sits peacefully today. A small stand inside sells incense sticks, which explains the liberal smoke wafting around inside from visitors routinely leaving offerings to mark a


Top: Every Buddha tells a story Bottom Left and Right: One can only imagine the amount of gold paint used Top: Each Buddha has its own expression Bottom Left: Some are deep in thought Bottom Right: Others look a little more whimsical


wish or respect. You don’t have to be a practicing monk to feel a sense of immense peace when you’re here. Strolling around the grounds, you can turn your camera in almost any direction and get an interesting photo wherever you shoot, which explains the over 200 images we took in this location alone. The elevated vista offers uncompromised views of the surrounding city far below. Taking a moment to take it all in, the sounds of a waterfall, wind in the trees,

and the tinkling of wind chimes scattered around the grounds give the place an almost perpetual hum. We could stay here forever. And it turns out some people do. Part of what funds the upkeep of the location are locals who pay to have their ashes saved on-site after they pass. All in all, a great moment of reflection that gets us thinking about where we’ll go next.

Left: Four headed buddha statue Top: View from the monastery top level


長洲

Hunting for pirate treasure4:15 pm | Cheung Chau Island

The bay is calm today, and given the recent rains, we’re grateful. Boarding a small boat in rough water is no fun. On this day, we’re setting sail by way of a ferry from Lantau Island to Cheung Chau Island. The entire trip takes about 45 minutes, but we’re in no hurry. Hong Kong locals visit this island frequently to relax and enjoy long weekends.

Traditionally a fishing-based island, the overcast skies create a dramatic back-ground to the army of brightly colored fishing boats that line our path as we sail into the cove. The ferryman care-fully weaves between the boats as we approach, making us feel not unlike the schools of fish that have made this place famous. There are no cars allowed on


the island save for the occasional ambulance, so everyone rides bicycles. We disembark the ferry and begin walking down a promenade that follows the main strip. Along the way we pass dim sum stands snugly mingled in with fishermen selling fresh seafood and stop to sample local epicurean delights. A diversion from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong, the pace of life here is slow. Because this is where so many come for long weekends, there are tons of rental homes. You can easily imagine them

all being booked to capacity when the sun comes out and the weather allows. But we didn’t come here today to stroll the beach. We came to look for pirate treasure. On the way over, our guide casually mentions that over 200 years ago, one of the most infamous pirates in what was then the Qin Dynasty was rumored to have buried his plunder on the island. Often portrayed as a Robin Hood–type figure, Cheung Po Tsai was a notorious pirate who patrolled the South China Sea. At the height of his

Left: View from Cheung Chau Family Walk Top: Boats tied up near Sai Wan Pier


Left and Top: Boat to Sai Wan Pier

marauding empire, he commanded a fleet of over 600 ships. After many years of successful swashbuckling, he surrendered to the king and was given an officer’s position in the Chinese Navy. Yet his treasure was never found. Our guide suggests there’s a place called the Cheung Po Tsai Cave where legend says he hid his loot. Our hearts racing, we head over ready to find lost treasure posthaste. Yet there is one little detail the guide fails to mention that becomes abundantly clear when we reach the

cave: Exploring it is going to be harder work than we thought. Climbing over boulders, a decayed and ancient metal ladder emerges from a darkened hole. Grabbing hold, we then descend into a crevice that’s scarcely wider than us. In retrospect, a little less dim sum at lunch might have been a better plan. Walking sideways through the pass, it’s easy to imagine a


desperate outlaw hastily trying to conceal his booty under the light of a full moon. The narrow cave leads out to an exit right on the bay, handy for harboring a waiting ship when the time is right to move your prize. The mind lingers a bit on a more romantic age long ago, but it’s late in the day now and the last embers of sunlight are starting to fade. Reality hits, and we realize we need to find a way back to Hong Kong Island. Fortunately,

our ferryman has taken the trouble to spray paint his number on multiple rocks lining the cove, so we give him a ring. In a short while he reappears in his small boat, and we’re off. Sadly, we don’t find any pirate treasure today, but we do have the wonderful reward of discovering a beautiful new place. To any good traveler, that’s the ultimate prize.

Top: Entering the Pirate Cave Right: View of the cave from inside


九龍

Food for the soul12:30 pm to 6:30 pm | Kowloon

In the Western world, there’s a common culinary misnomer. You’ve heard it said before when you’re out dining: “Hey everyone, let’s go get some Chinese food.” As if to imply there’s one style of food that everyone in a country of billions eats. Of course, nothing could be further from the truth. The dining

and cuisine in Hong Kong and beyond is as diverse as the people. People, it turns out, who have come from all over. One such example is known simply as Chiu Chow. Originally from the Eastern Guangdong Province of China, it spread to Hong Kong over hundreds of years.


All: Chong Fat Chiu Chow Restaurant kitchen - Kowloon City

Chiu Chow makes use of the ingredients that are naturally available in the area. One might even think of it as the first example of locally grown and sourced. Built on a foundation of fresh ingredients, the style of cooking is highly regarded from a health standpoint. Oil is rarely used in the cooking process. Instead, steaming, poaching, and braising are the preferred methods. Colleagues of ours have recommended a few choice local favorites, with Chong Fat Chiu Chow Restaurant in Kowloon City first on their list. Our mouths watering with thoughts of a great meal, we take a short cab ride over. A light rain falls as we navigate the midday traffic. We arrive for lunch and have the restaurant all to ourselves, a stark contrast to how things are on the weekend when it’s almost impossible to get a seat. A cursory look around shows

a window into how the food is made. Hanging on racks are fresh lobsters and shellfish. Nearby in a neatly arranged cooking area, the chef is busy dicing up fresh ingredients, surrounding himself with organized groupings, perhaps to speed up his craft or maybe remind him of what matters most. The menu is thorough and we’re in the mood to be daring, so we throw caution to the wind and go with our waiter’s recommendations. But before any food is consumed, we are served oolong tea in tiny cups. This tea service, called Tieguanyin, acts as a palate cleaner to get us ready to appreciate the nuances of the food to come.


Today, we enjoy a meal of braised goose, air-cured sausage, and whole fried fish, as well as a sweet-and-tangy noodle dish that can best be described as a magnificent pancake. All delicious. Each memorable on its own. Sitting back and taking it all in, we get the sense that this is one of those magical places that locals and tourists both

enjoy. We are so impressed with this style of food, we resolve to head out for more the following day. This time to Chateh, a modern upscale restaurant in a fashionable mall. Here the ambiance is a little more upscale. We make fast friends with the owner and get a tour of the kitchen, where the intricacy of the food meets an amazingly efficient line. We

watch them turn out dish after dish with immense precision. The presentations of food here border on gourmet, but the principles of how it’s made remain the same as the day before: a joyful, delicious expression of cuisine that’s also healthy. Now that’s worth seconds.

Top: Head Chef - Chateh Bottom Left and Right: Line cooks and staff during dinner service Top: Line cook at work Bottom Left and Right: The modern elegance of Chateh


香港九龍

An evening on the bay9:00 pm | Hong Kong and Kowloon

We’ve heard great things about the bargain-hunting fun of Temple Street, and tonight we’ve decided to set out and explore it. But that requires a trip to Kowloon, and to get there from Hong Kong, we need to take a boat. It’s not that we couldn’t take the MTR, but a boat seemed more adventurous and gives

us the perfect opportunity to see an amazing view of the Hong Kong skyline at night. Like any absent-minded tourists occasionally do, we get our departure times a little mixed up and have to race down to the wharf to buy our tickets before the boat leaves. Fortunately, they’re sold from


Top: Star Ferry Pier Right: Aboard the Aqua Luna

automated machines, and we’re able to make up time fast. Tickets now in hand, we race down to the gangway as the last ones on and just make the departure. The boat is a double-decker ferry and looks to seat a couple hundred people. Tonight the open windows are lined with plastic to keep out the rain, but on a clear day, they offer the perfect vista to see the greater harbor. The ride to Kowloon is about 15 minutes, giving us plenty of time to capture a few shots of the Hong Kong city skyline. One need not be a professional photographer to capture amazingly beautiful shots. Between the incredible array of neon building lights juxtaposed with the eclectic mix

of modern architecture, this very well may be the most picturesque skyline in the world. Along the way, we pass the illuminated red sails of a fleet of junks, a style of Chinese sailing vessel from a bygone time that still prowls the waters today. When we land in Kowloon, we stroll the Avenue of Stars, a little promenade lined with small boats and commerce ships. There’s even a larger-than-life statue of Bruce Lee, one of the area’s native sons. This already has the making of one of our best experiences yet, and the night has only just begun.


廟街

A night out on Temple Street10:30 pm | Temple Street

Part of the fun of exploring Hong Kong is the art of finding the perfect souvenir to take home with you. Hands down, the best place to start is Temple Street, home of the ultimate Hong Kong night market. Named after a Tin Hau temple that the street is built around, the entire block creates an unusual juxtaposition

between the spiritual world and the commercial one. The sun begins to set, and like commerce moths drawn to the light of the deal, merchants begin setting up their booths. Soon there are hundreds of them lined up neatly down the main street and many spilling over into side alleys, each one with


little twinkly lights beckoning in any direction you turn. Here you can find anything you can possibly imagine, ready to be sold: trinkets, jewelry, antiques, clothing, food, electronics, dried medicines, even fortune-telling. We walk at a snail’s pace, just trying to take everything in, until all the exploring makes us quite hungry. We stop at one of the booths and indulge in one of the

best clay pots that all of us agree we’ve ever had. The food in this city never fails to impress. Strolling on, we pass another vendor. A small jade statue catches the eye. The sale price is clearly marked, but it’s merely a starting point. Everything here is haggled over, and it’s actually part of the fun. Back and forth we go, with both the buyer and the seller coming up with more and more elaborate reasons

All: Food stalls - Temple Street Night Market


to back out of the deal until the agreed-upon price is reached. It’s a process that plays itself out all along the block. We pass a group of fortune-tellers and decide to take a chance on one, a kindly-looking gentleman who could just as easily be 70 or 700 years old. Patiently, and with extreme focus, he takes his time to read our faces and

then tells us our destiny. As a psychic, the jury is out. But as a nice friend to meet on our trip, he’s worth his small consultation fee. And so it continues as we walk along and bargain our way down the street. All in all, a good evening that will at least yield more than a few stories for when we return home.

Far Left: Shopping at the Temple Street Night Market Top: A face reading from a local fortune-teller


Building a vision9:15 am to 11:00 pm | Hong Kong

One of the great things about traveling is that it exposes you not just to how other cultures see the world, but how they build the world around them. And building is something Hong Kong has done for its entire existence. We’d heard the city had impressive architecture, but what we didn’t realize is just how much of it there is. To truly appreciate it,

you have to understand the context for how it all came to be. Over thousands of years, people relocating from all over the globe have shaped Hong Kong with their traditions and cultures. It’s not uncommon to see a juxtaposition on almost any street of Asian and European influences, from the old

香港


dynasty periods in China to the British Colonial influence, and of course, the range of award-winning architects from all over the world who have helped sculpt the contemporary buildings that line the skyline today. If you are an architecture nerd or find yourself getting lost in the intricacies of a hand-carved

column, this is most definitely the city for you. On a recommendation, we visit Hong Kong University, the oldest higher-education institution in the city, and King’s College, a private school for boys. Both are elegant and harken back to the sophisticated tastes of yesteryear colonial elegance, with arched rooms

Far Left: Painted steps - PMQ Hong Kong Top: Hong Kong is a city constantly reinventing itself


supported by grand columns that lead down to polished stone floors. Impressive wood windows look out to neatly manicured courtyards. At King’s College we pass a beautiful lotus pond, and we can almost imagine any of the many famous alumni who’ve passed through the halls stopping here to

get their thoughts together before an exam. Hong Kong University is equally impressive. Although it sustained significant damage during World War II, the gentle elegance of the original design blends seamlessly with the more recent additions. Beyond these

Top: Hong Kong University Right: King’s College


Left: Hong Kong Legislative Council Building from Statue Square Top: Statue Square

two wonderful places, there are things to see everywhere. Ancient temples sit next to magnificent glass towers that support financial superpowers from all over the globe, each one more impressive than the next, standing like supermodels on a stage. It would be hard to pick the best if you had to judge this competition.


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Where the trends begin7:30 pm to 10:00 pm | Hong Kong and Kowloon

Mention to any self-respecting fashionista that you’re going to visit Hong Kong, and their face will instantly light up. That’s because, for anyone who loves to shop and covets staying on top of the latest trends and styles, there’s simply no better city to visit. Naturally, we’ve come to find out what the commotion is all about. On

a tip, we’ve been told to make sure visits to Star Street and PMQ are on our list. We start on Star Street, and it doesn’t disappoint. You could call it cool, trendy, sophisticated, flirty, fun, one of a kind, but it almost wouldn’t be enough. Boutique after boutique selling every accoutrement of style. The day we go, we are lucky


enough to meet several of the up-and-coming local and East Asian designers who ply their trade creating the latest looks. Although a Hong Kong lease can be expensive, the prices seem reasonable. Abundant variety and the ability to get custom-made is what makes shopping in this city rewarding. If you see something you like, it’s quite easy to get it made to your specs.

Perfect for those who find themselves constantly saying “I love it. If only it were in my size.” Our other stop is an area called PMQ. Essentially, it’s a creative hub housed within a former police married quarters, perhaps an inside joke from the designers who have put up shop here today seeing too many fashion violations and wanting to make them stop. We drop in at a small

boutique selling one-of-a-kind beautiful goods. As we browse, the owner tells us a lovely story. It turns out his daughter is the creative visionary behind many of the designs that are sold here. In fact, her talents have helped pay her way through college. Some say the fashion business can be cutthroat, but it’s stories like this that make you think it doesn’t have to be this way. At least not

here. Between more stories about his love of aviation and his daughter’s keen interest in using natural dyes to create unique and vibrant colors, we literally could stay here for the rest of the day. But like most of our adventures in Hong Kong sure seem to be, there’s always another one coming soon.

Top: Kopok - Star Street Top: PMQ - Hulu Culture


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Practicing peaceful11:30 am | Sheung Wan

There are many Buddhist temples around Hong Kong, and although they share many traditions, each one tells its own story. Without much planning, we pass one called Man Mo Temple and decide to walk in and explore. Picturesque and revered, it was built in 1847 as a tribute to the god of literature

and war. At first blush, this seems a bit of an odd juxtaposition, so we’re determined to find out more. Surrounded by the fast-moving nearby financial district, walking inside the temple instantly makes us all feel a sense of peace. Lit by the light of candles and a few strategically placed skylights,


the space feels supernatural, and the incense drifting through the air from the many burning coils that hang from the ceiling only heightens the effect. The temple is still being used today, as many people are gathered in prayer. Their chanting creates a gentle hum that permeates the temple, making an almost perpetual state of vibration. All around,

pops of red lanterns abound off the rich mahogany walls. Although we don’t understand much of the symbolism and can’t decipher the meaning of the chants, it’s easy to feel spiritual here whether or not you practice any form of religion, and for whatever it’s worth, no one in our group checks their phone the entire time we are here.

Left and Top: Interior of Man Mo Temple


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Random discoveries on a Tuesday1:30 pm to 6:30 pm | Hong Kong

The beauty of Hong Kong being the compact city it is means that you don’t need tons of time to see interesting things, which is perfect if you should ever find yourself in the city on a layover with only a few hours to spare. Today, we find ourselves short on hours, and we are determined to get as much out of our

day as we can. A quick breakfast of rice porridge called congee has us fueled up and ready to go. First on our list is a stop at some of the world-famous art galleries that encompass Tai Ping Shan Street in Hong Kong’s oldest neighborhood. Here traditional and modern worlds


meet in the unique buildings that make up the neighborhood. We walk beautiful stone streets lined with century-old trees. Originally settled in the 1840s as a working-class neighborhood, it’s evolved today to house trendy galleries and posh boutiques. The galleries are every bit as beautiful as advertised and make it easy for us to linger. We spend quite some time at 88 Gallery in Hong Kong taking

in their stunning collection of modern art until around noon, when we decide to have lunch. Fortified by a light meal of dim sum and sweet cane juice, we walk on, passing a dry spice market and numerous flower venders on our way. Every so often, we notice a shop with an intricate shrine or religious altar erected in front. Neatly cared for, they are meant

Top: Lucy Chung Fine Arts Right: 88 Gallery


to bring the business owners luck and good fortune, and from the hustle and bustle many of these shops exhibit, perhaps they really do work. It’s pleasant today, and we enjoy being out of the rain. But before we know it, the sun begins to set, and it’s time to head back toward the hotel. We’ve had another fun adventure, with more still to come. Not too shabby for a couple hours.

Left: Dried Cod store - Des Voeux Road West Top: Lan Kwai Fong - Florist


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Work is a joy1:30 pm to 2:00 am | Hong Kong and Kowloon

There are many things that make Hong Kong unique, but one of the most important ones is the people. Here in a city of over 7 million, pretty much everyone you meet works. And what they do for employment is as diverse as the people who encompass the city. In our travels in Hong Kong and the surrounding islands, we meet everyone

from food vendors to fishermen, independent shop owners, white-collar financial professionals, street performers, flower merchants, fashion designers, and of course, airline industry professionals from Cathay Pacific. Along the way, we discover work here isn’t viewed quite the same as we view it in the Western world. Most people


Top: Marketing manager - J Plus Hotel by YOO Bottom: Owner - Salt LKF Top: Screen printers - PMQ Bottom: Employee - Choi Lung Teahouse


where we come from see work as a means to an end, a way to retire, so to speak. The people of Hong Kong almost always see it differently. To them, work is a point of pride, and you’re never too old to do it. It’s not uncommon to see people working well into their later years. Working, in a sense, is synonymous with having a productive spirit, something that should be enjoyed every day, no

matter how grand or humble your place of employment. It’s why the subway musician we meet teaches lessons to his students in the station. His setup next to the train entrance might as well be a private music academy with a train running through it. A nicer venue doesn’t make the students appreciate learning any more. It’s the teacher that matters most. It’s also why the owner of a salt

cod fish store we drop by makes his own shrimp paste from scratch versus importing it from another country. Importing would probably be easier, but it wouldn’t have the same quality. All of it speaks to a pride in effort and the product that ensues, and it seems to permeate everywhere. You may be a waiter, but your help allows people to make a wonderful memory over a meal.

Or sell trinkets on a street to tourists. Yet you provide them with a memento from a vacation they’ll never forget. We came on this trip to gain some perspective about Hong Kong. We never imagined we’d find it from people busy at work.

Top: Dim Sum server - Lin Heung Tea House Top: Vendor - Jardine’s Crescent Street Market

Cathay Pacific Airways

Cathay Pacific Airlines is an international airline founded, registered, and based in Hong Kong, offering scheduled cargo and passenger services to more than 110 destinations around the world. For over 70 years, the company has made a steadfast financial commitment to developing the aviation industry in the region. This support has helped solidify Hong Kong’s position as the

premier regional transportation hub in China. Today Cathay Pacific, its subsidiaries, and associates employ over 20,000 people. As a founding member of the Oneworld Alliance, our combined network now serves over 700 destinations worldwide, helping to introduce travelers to our part of the world and far beyond.

FLY TO HONG KONG

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