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Editorial

Joachim Ziegler CEO Les Ambassadeurs

Half a century! Five decades, 50 years: impressive maturity combined with an ever-youthful spirit; experience but no excessive rigidity; the dignity of age without the weight of the years…

We are a young company in respect to the age-old history of the goldsmithing and jewellery art, as well as in comparison with the infinitely perfected techniques of time measurement. We have closely followed the ups and downs of the Swiss watch industry over the years. From the domination of mechanical watches through the quartz crisis to the subsequent rebirth of horology and its flourishing current state, we have remained perpetually fascinated by the watchmakers’ art and paid constant tribute to the beauty of jewellery.

We are young enough for the earliest employees to tell us about the eventful history of our company. Our annals are thus accessible and understandable for the generation that is currently perpetuating our heritage. Our history addresses us directly without any need to resort to dusty archives or yellowing pages. It is a privilege to know that our company harbours staff members who have practically experienced our entire history in person and have contributed to forging it. People whose passion for watches and jewellery spans my entire lifetime! It is this dynamic coexistence of youth and age that makes us who we are, because we feel as indebted to our past as we are committed to our future. Above all, we are dedicated to embodying our credo: The Leading House of Leading Names.

I also wish to extend our most sincere gratitude to you, our dear readers. It is thanks to you that we do not feel the weight of our 50 years. We look forward to having you drop in again soon so that we can toast this milestone together!

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C o n t e n t s | i s s u e 1 3 |

01 Editorial

T r en dy Ac c essor ies : 04 Must-haves for watchmaking fans

Watc h T r en ds:06 Looking back yet never backward

J ewel l ery T r en ds:08 Big is beautiful

C in em a : 10 50 years of cinematic symbols

Fa sh ion : 14 50 years of styles and revolutions

H i stor ic a l sec t ion :17 Foreword by Dr. Renato A. Vanotti18 Interview with Joachim Ziegler22 Frédéric Jeanjaquet, the Genevan pioneer24 The Zurich boutique now... and then28 Rolf Richner’s grand horological classics32 St. Moritz, where fashion and watches rub shoulders

Col l ec tor s c or n er :33 The 50th anniversary limited editions

S port:36 50 years celebrating sport and watchmaking

Des ign :40 50 years of watchmaking shapes

How to spen d i t :44 The pinnacle of ‘Swiss made’!

Ch r on ic l e:48 Fifty, or the triumph of the halfway mark

E spac e Con na isseu r :50 Rendezvous with watchmaking fans

E v en ts :52 Les Ambassadeurs events

Peopl e:54 Geneva 55 Zurich 56 Lugano 57 St. Moritz

Pr ec iou s:58 Jewellery

76 Watches & More

128 N ex t i s su e pr ev iew a n d c r ed its

�o hidden �ices! �Because concealing them is a far greater sin than con-suming them, cigar smokers can now enjoy their vice completely openly. With �lassconcept and its LD� 01 cigar cellar, combining the beauty of the container, the contents and the excellent standard of conservation is a tangible reality. The very first cigar box entirely made of glass ensures optimal humidification of cigars as if they were hung in blown glass tubes resting on some of the best Honduras mahogany.

�recious tortoise iA new toy for an overgrown child? No – this tortoise is way too precious to fall into that category. Designed by watchmaker Ra„l Pag†s and completely manufactured in Switzerland, this gold, diamond and sapphire-cladtortoise comes alive with a mechanism akin to a watch movement. This is a unique piece which is the start of a very limited series of tortoises representing symbols of longevity and wisdom, as well as contemporary expres-sions of a great tradition of prestigious automatons.

�� � luur �A wow effect is guaranted with the �yrowinder which confirms DŠttling’s expertise in manufacturing watch winders. In order to perfectly imitate wearing a watch on the wrist and to develop a winder that allows totally free rotation with a complete about-turn of the watch, the �erman company has drawn its inspiration from astronauts’ training devices. As beautiful as it is use-ful, this object allows the winding mechanism to be adjusted with extreme precision, notably by means of a set of weights designed to ensure the perfect counter-balancing effect.

A love of watchmaking usually goes far beyond the pleasure of owning beautiful timepieces. It comes with a passion for luxury, refinement, high performance and aesthetics. A close-up look at some must-have accessories for confirmed fans.

Must-haves for watchmaking fans

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L.A_TRENDY ACCESSORIES

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TRENDY ACCESSORIES_L.A

Text: Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

Behind closed doors… sLike a miniature safe, RDI’s K10-1 houses your precious timepiece in total elegance. Inside, behind the door, lies a perfectly finished winding system suited to all needs, with a choice of 16 programmes. On the outside, the K10-1 displays finely carved columns, harmoniously extending the pure, sober aesthetic lines.

Surrealist writing pNothing like testing “automatic writing” using a fountain pen with a truly crazy style strongly inspired by one of Surrealism’s uncontested geniuses. Montegrappa borrows from the insane world of Salvador Dali the raving image of an elephant with spider’s feet. This silver writing instrument issued in a 1,000-piece lim-ited edition is a direct reference to the Space Ele-phant sculpture, as well as to an iconic Salvador Dali quote: “Not one day gœs by that I don’t ride, ‘til the infinite, the horse of my imagination.”

On the cuff iA beautiful mechanism on the wrist? Classic, you might say! Certainly, except the one produced by Roland Iten is not worn against the skin but on the cufflink. After his famous mechanical belt buckles, Roland Iten has pushed his imagination even further to invent an exclusive cuf-flink collection. High performance mechanics, impec-cable ergonomics and precious materials make these accessories a must-have for dandies with a penchant for timepieces.

Black & White Ti(e) pIts strength dœs not lie in its luminous face nor in its dark side, but somewhere between the two. With the Ti Black & White model, Vertu combines the glossy shine of white alliga-tor leather with the pure matt effect of black PVD-coated tita-nium combined with white ceramics. A play on contrasts that adds an irresistible touch of glamour to Vertu’s famous concierge service.

Must-haves for watchmaking fans

The ultimate click-clack! pAn icon, a luxurious object, a digital camera that has nothing left to prove… the Hasselblad Lunar is all of this rolled into one. The latest from the manufacturer that supplied the model which went to the moon with Neil Armstrong is a nod to this amazing adventure. Compact and equipped with interchangeable lenses, the Lunar comes with different finishes – black or brown leather, carbon fibre, Italian mahogany or olive wood. Pure luxury!

Jaquet Droz

L.A_DESIGN

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L.A_DESIGN

Text: Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

The trend is invading virtually every field of life: fashion, interior design, cars, watches… Sprinkled with a dusting of vintage charm and enriched with a health dose of tradition, watch collections provide apparently infinite scope for revisiting classics.

Watchmaking is a brilliant ex-ponent of the art of reconcil-ing opposites. Perhaps its very nature determines this abil-ity to bridge the gap between past and present, to draw on

tradition in birthing futuristic objects? However disconcerting it may prove, this talent for expressing innovation across successive generations and re-viving certain trends is a tangible reality.

Anniversaries, tributes and jubilees all provide opportunities to create lim-ited editions that revisit the past and bring designs characteristic of another era firmly back in the limelight. One need only think of Longines, which cel-ebrated its 180th anniversary in 2012 by proudly reaffirming horological clas-sicism with its Column-Wheel Single Push-Piece Chronograph. The latter is strongly inspired by the very first wrist chronograph developed by the house exactly 100 years ago. While the refined design of this timepiece presented in an 180-piece limited edition appears to echo a bygone age, its movement is decidedly cutting-edge with a column-wheel system serving to control the var-ious chronograph functions merely by pressing the single push-piece. In terms of anniversaries, Breguet toasted five decades of its Type XX with a new ver-sion that is also set to become a legend: the Type XXII 3880 ST, a 44 mm steel

Looking back yet never backward

case housing the Breguet chronograph movement with silicon escapement and flat balance-spring. Whereas aes-thetic and mechanical aspects have evolved considerably, the spirit re-mains the same and is unmistakably vintage!

Vintage vs modernWhile symptomatic of an era with a penchant for reinventing previous achievements and nostalgic trips down memory lane that nonetheless avoid exuding an aura of obsolescence, an-niversaries and other such celebrations are the kind of alibis for so-called vin-tage designs that some brands readily forego. Jaquet Droz simply tips its hat to the return of dandyism and the hey-day of the pocket-watch. How can one indeed resist the quaint charm of a su-perb pocket-watch with an ivory-toned Grand Feu enamel dial framed by a 50 mm yellow gold case?Meanwhile, the greatest Cartier icons evolve in step with their times and yet retain a subtle retro touch like a guid-ing thread across the decades ensur-ing perfect consistency and continuity. After the Tank Américaine and the Tank Française, the recent Tank An-glaise combines the traditional codes

of the collection with the modernity of a model firmly entrenched in the 21st century. A bracelet seamlessly inte-grated with the case, Roman numerals, a railtrack minute circle, dagger-shaped hands in blued steel, parallel brancards (shaft lugs)… There is no doubt about the fact that this good-looking English model is every inch a Tank! However, as befits the mod-ern age, it opts for purer, tauter lines incorporating the winding-crown into the famous brancards. Careful observers of today’s watch-making scene will doubtless contend that every era is enjoying its revival. Even the 1970s, often associated with the advent of the quartz crisis, are in favour among watchmakers. Vulcain reclaims this vintage style with the Nautical Seventies Blue Limited Edition issued in a 100-piece series for the Vulcain Trophy D35 championship. This sporty model faithfully reflecting the 1970 original in terms of its case, dial and colours follows in the wake of the one presented a year earlier in an orange version. Equipped with the legendary Cricket alarm calibre that can be heard striking under water, this ideal collector’s item is an eloquent reminder that fashion constantly repeats itself.

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WATCH TRENDS_L.A

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Big is beautifulHuge earrings, imposing necklaces, outsized carat weights… What with flurries of precious gems and unashamedly generous volumes, jewellers are currently refusing to curb their creative ardour. Being modern is about thinking big – in XXL mode!

1. Graff, ring2. Pasquale Bruni, Prato Fiorito necklace3. Pomellato, Tango bracelets4. Les Ambassadeurs, Feather earrings 5. Ole Lynggaard, Gipsy earrings

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Text: Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

W hat can one say of the famous expression “less is more”, except that it’s not exactly a hot trend in the jewellery collections by the most popular creative talents on the current scene? Outsized exuberance is more the order of the day and indeed sometimes even outrageous-ly so, although without ever succumbing to

yesterday’s bling-bling designs. At this particular moment in time, following firmly in the wake of fashion gurus, jewellery is excessively large and fearlessly displays its plus-size attitude. Ever the trend-set-ter, Pomellato is in the vanguard of designers unabashedly channelling this vibe. The interwoven links of Tango brace-lets radiate a distinctly modern air, for while fashion-for-ward women are bound to adopt the rock-chick look evoked by its chains, the Italian jeweller has also opted for a reso-lutely XXL size. The same goes for Ole Lynggaard, firmly in tune with the current wave expressed here through a range of large, light and colourful gipsy-style earrings. The modern nature of this king-sized approach is also ex-pressed in precious stones and their ever more breath-taking vital statistics in terms of number, size, cut and carat weight. Witness the stunning Prato Fiorito necklace by Pasquale Bruni featuring 12.33 carats of diamonds glittering with countless sparkling facets. Part choker, part plastron necklace, this adornment fit for a queen wipes the slate

Big is beautifulclean of any preconceived ideas: contemporary aesthetic ap-peal is no longer about pure, uncluttered lines. Extreme mo-dernity is above all a state of mind. An art of living, a fierce desire to push the envelope – as exemplified in the feather-shaped earrings from Les Ambassadeurs set with 1,044 dia-monds weighing far more than the motif they evoke! Not to mention Graff, the king of diamonds who has composed a veritable ode to extravagant excess with an XXL ring starring a truly dazzling 10-carat pear-cut diamond. Like an item of clothing, a pair of shoes or a handbag, these spectacularly modern jewellery creations make a definite statement about those who wear them – supremely self-confident women unashamed to confess their delicious secret belief that big is beautiful!

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Text: Keith W. Strandberg

Watches and clocks have been used as symbols throughout the history of film. Remem-ber Harold Lloyd hanging from the giant clock in the 1923 silent film Safety Last? In more recent movies, Back to

the Future is a masterpiece of manipulat-ing time and using imagery regarding its passage. Nick of Time with Johnny Depp used clocks and watches through-out, as it was a movie that unfolded in “real time.” Wong Kar-Wai uses mir-rors, clocks and watches as key symbols throughout his films, representing fate and inevitability. Memento and Pulp Fic-tion played with the way time is present-ed in movies.In a way, every watch in every movie is a symbol – if only a symbol of what kind of character the actor is. After all, char-acters are defined by the choices they make: words, jobs, clothes, actions, cars and yes, watches.In The Taking of Pelham 1-2-3, John Travolta wears a Breitling in just about every scene. It’s a statement on time, as the story focuses on the city ticking down to a catastrophe, but at the same time it’s a watch that Travolta’s character would logically wear.Often, like with Travolta, watch brands have relationships with actors who wear their products, and when that actor is in a movie or TV show, he or she makes sure the watch ends up in front of the camera. Other times, companies have represent-atives who lobby for product placement with studios and production companies. Sometimes, a production company will approach a watch brand about using its products for a particular project.When product placement works, it can be much better than any advertising a company could do. The impact is great-er, because the audience is caught up in the plot of a great movie.

50 Years of Cinematic Symbols

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50 YEARS OF CINEMA_L.A

The Hollywood empire at its origins in 1923: a major property development named Hollywoodland

It’s one of life’s most elusive things. For their entire history, watchmakers have been trying to control and regulate time, while filmmakers have focused on capturing moments in time. In both watches and films, the best results are those efforts that are timeless.

The actor John Travolta, Breitling, and their joint flight

Some watch placements just natu-rally make sense. As an example, in Batman Forever, Bruce Wayne wears a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch, the fa-mous watch which flips over, put on his wrist to represent his dual personality. The use of this watch makes sense for the story – and begs for a close up so the audience can make the link from the watch to his character.In recent movies, Ulysse Nardin was worn by Rowan Atkinson in Johnny Eng-lish 2 and Ed Harris sported one in The Phantom. Panerai has appeared in many Sylvester Stallone movies, and in fact Stallone, a fan of the brand, wore a Pane-rai in The Expendables. In addition, Urwerk appeared in the Jackie Chan adventure film Chinese Zodiac.Watches are one of the key ways that men and women can showcase their style and taste, so it makes sense that Hollywood

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L.A_50 YEARS OF CINEMA

uses them on the wrists of stars to delin-eate their characters, and audiences are paying attention to what watches are on the wrists of their favorite stars.

Watch Creation for MoviesSome watches are designed specifically for films. The most famous instance of this is the watch Hamilton Watch Company designed for the 1968 Stanley Kubrick masterpiece, 2001: A Space Odyssey. The company originally never consid-ered selling the watch commercially, as it was too complicated, though Hamil-ton did come out with a limited edition of this watch (called the X-01) in, you guessed it, 2001.Action star Arnold Schwarzenegger has worn Audemars Piguet watches in many of his movies. For End of Days, Schwarzenegger wore a watch called the Royal Oak Offshore, which featured a unique PVD treatment. Schwarzeneg-ger had input into the watch’s design and the company has produced several limited series to be sold by their deal-ers throughout the world. Audemars Piguet also made appearances in the Ter-minator movies, on the wrist of the title character.

The Red CarpetRed carpet events are the height of Hollywood glitz and glamour – a show-case of entertainment’s elite – where the stars come out to shine and where high-end products, including watches, are squarely in the spotlight.Fashion designers and jewelry compa-nies were the first to take advantage of this opportunity, with watches com-ing a little later to the party. After all, women get most of the attention with their colorful and unique dresses, and most women don’t wear a watch with a beautiful gown. Watch companies have recently been working hard to change this by putting their watches on celebrity men and women.Jaeger-LeCoultre is very proactive in its involvement with film, spon-soring the Venice Film Festival, as well as the Abu Dhabi and San Sebastián Film Festivals and oth-ers. In addition, Jaeger-LeCoultre is very visible on the red carpet, as more and more actors, directors and producers are wearing their watches.

p Audemars Piguet appears in several action films starring

Arnold Schwarzenegger

s Harold Lloyd hanging from a giant clock in the silent film

Safety Last (1923)

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50 YEARS OF CINEMA_L.A

The brand is working on getting much more awareness and forging strong re-lationships with the creative people in the film world.Harry Winston has perhaps the longest history of working with celebrities – it was in 1944 that Harry Winston began to solidify his reputation as the Jeweler to the Stars, when the brand became the very first jeweler to dress an actress, Jennifer Jones, for the Academy Awards. The red carpet tradition, with both jew-elry and watches, is still very much a part of the company today.

Other Cinematic EffortsGirard-Perregaux recently teamed with the Academy Museum of Motion Pic-tures, scheduled to open in 2017 in Los Angeles, as its exclusive timekeeper and a founding supporter. Girard-Perregaux is able to select iconic images from the

Academy’s collection of more than 10 million photos in its advertisements. “We are honored to be working along-side the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences on this extraordinary venture,” says Michele Sofisti, CEO of Girard-Perregaux, Gucci and JeanRich-ard. “We understand the importance of preserving the heritage and history of film making which, like watchmaking, requires an immense amount of love, work and dedication.”In 2011, Scottish actor Gerard Butler (300, Law Abiding Citizen, Olympus Has Fallen) joined the stable of friends of the Roger Dubuis brand, and recently the market-ing and advertising of the mark has had a distinctly cinematic feel. Watchmak-ing is just like the cinema, it hides a precise mechanism which must then generate emotion, Butler says. The world of Roger Dubuis, the arrival of its collections, like spaces of freedom, per-fectly matches my principles. You need to take chances in life and always push yourself.Watches and movies both capture a mo-ment in time and you can look forward to seeing more of the watches we love on the silver screen and the red carpet.

Girard-Perregaux is sponsoring the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures that will open in 2017 in Los Angeles.

Scottish actor Gerard Butler has joined the roster of friends of the Roger Dubuis brand.

Actress Diane Kruger wearing a Joaillerie 101 watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre at the Venice Film Festival supported by the brand.

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Text: David Chokron

50 years of styles and revolutions

Fashion and watchmaking adorn the skin. One clothes the body and the other the wrist. While the former takes up virtually the entire available anatomical space, the latter obeys no less subtle de-sign codes. They share a common

history and the past fifty years have seen them experience recurrent revolutions, breaking free of existing constraints to perpetually reinvent themselves. They have both gradually emerged from their purely utilitarian vocation. Clothing the body and telling the time have become mere pretexts for far more sophisticated style games. Their parallel paths are in-fluenced by the spirit of the times, the opulence of a given era, as well as a pen-dulum-swing effect. And while omnipo-tent fashion tends to regard the watch as a mere accessory, the latter holds its own, building on its individuality, its mechanical complexity, its culture and its history. Thus, despite countless twists and turns and perpetually chang-ing colours and sizes, quality and au-thenticity maintain the upper hand. EmancipationThe 1960s witnessed a profound change in social mores. This was more or less the end of seamstresses and of hand-made clothes. Prêt-à-porter, or off-the-peg apparel was enjoying its first major successes, driven by the euphoria of economic growth. At the same time, watchmaking was also entering a new era. Thanks to the mechanisation of production technologies and the inven-tion of modern machines, it was able to meet strong demand also boosted by post-war prosperity. It enjoyed a golden age that saw the emergence of the clas-sic designs we now know. Longines and Jaeger-LeCoultre are perhaps the finest representatives of this understated, ele- gant style.

Ermenegildo Zegna’s rigorous Italian style celebrated its centenary in 2012, yet has not aged in the slightest.

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50 YEARS OF FASHION_L.A

Fashion and watchmaking are individual means of expression that have been running along parallel tracks for 50 years. They thrive on the mood of the moment, while denying any fickleness and successfully finding their way through the ages.

LiberationA free-spirited, liberated mind-set in-spired shorter skirts and expanded wardrobes. Underwear finally left the 19th century behind, becoming lighter and abandoning its role of restraining and constricting the body. Watch forms also broke free and the 60s witnessed the advent of wild and wonderful case shapes, along with vivid colours. The sports watch made its grand entrance as the stellar accessory for the leisure soci-ety, alongside automobiles. New mate-rials were gaining ground on all fronts. Nylon and polyester epitomised progress in the field of textiles, while steel ac-quired a noble pedigree when the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet made its mark on the early 1970s. With its case in non-precious metal, this model sold for the price of a gold watch – a feat the brand specifically boasted of in its advertising.

CelebrationSlowly but surely, luxury was moving into previous un-entered territory. Cash-mere and fur were no longer the only embodiments of opulence. Brand names became a fundamental part of products. The 1980s and 1990s were the heyday of branding. Several successive growth waves sent prices rocketing, along with the quality of concepts and the sophis-

tication of the marketing techniques. Clothing became a powerful medium. At the height of this wave, the hyper-luxury of the 2000s endowed the prod-uct with the unprecedented status of a language in its own right. In parallel, mechanical watchmaking was recover-ing from the difficult patch experienced during the 1970s and 80s. Driven by un-

known brands, it began a renaissance that would push it further and higher than ever before. Franck Muller led the way in the field of Grand Complication watches; while Blancpain with its sport-ing chic models put the mechanical watch back on the map. It was to become a must-have complement to male attire, and subsequently an equally prized com-panion for women of taste.

PreservationFor both fashion and watchmaking, the need to preserve exclusivity and quality is an inescapable corollary of this spec-tacular boom. Fashion has gone in two different directions. On the one hand, a whole section has opted for low-cost

production in certain countries. On the other, geographical labels such as Made in Italy, Made in France or Made in England are becoming more relevant than ever and maintaining their grip on high-end apparel. ‘Swiss made’ plays a similar role, although not as much as the geographical entrenchment of the greatest brands. Vacheron Constantin

and Roger Dubuis are Genevan before all else, and have been since their birth. These specific roots are also a token of re-finement. The production of A. Lange & Söhne embodies a perfect blend of German traditions and the preservation of rare skills, thereby going well beyond the purely mechanical aspects of the watch.

“Fashion changes, but style endures.”

1. Panerai Luminor Marina 8 Days PAM00510

2. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

3. Blancpain Léman Chronographe Flyback Grande Date 2885

4. Breguet Tradition 7027BR

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L.A_50 YEARS OF FASHION

The philosophy of excellence pervades the most finely crafted seams of couture and watchmaking.

RenownHowever, keeping these professions threatened by productivity and mass consumerism alive calls for names. Big names. They alone have the economic and industrial strike power to drive a complex supply chain, a tightly meshed network of manufacturers, subcontrac-tors and highly qualified personnel. 50 years ago, most of the brands cur-rently on the fashion catwalks and in

the watch store windows were already in existence, although some have mean-while experienced dramatic rebirths. In the 1970s, Breguet and Cartier needed to revamp their image. They have suc-ceeded in returning to the competitive forefront. Alongside them, a number of newcomers have found their place in the sun. Panerai and Urwerk appeal to very different audiences, but which are both eager for variety and exclusivity. What matters is not existing, but lasting. And when it comes to that, whether for dresses or chronographs, suits or per-petual calendars, there is a very simple recipe we owe to Coco Chanel. Her motto “Fashion changes, but style endures” definitely also applies to watchmaking.

1. Rotonde de Cartier Mystery Watch

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

3. Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon

Another age, other moustaches, but the same concern for elegance.

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With kind regards,

Dr. Renato A. VanottiChairman of the Board

Les Ambassadeurs SA

For the past 50 years Les Ambassadeurs has been the reference in its field, faith-fully accompanying and advising a great many watch and jewellery enthusiasts. The story began in 1964 in Geneva, fol-lowed by Zurich, St. Moritz and finally Lugano. We also owe this strong position to a great many top-notch watch and jewellery brands that have remained loyal to us all these years.

Whether in relationships with our clients, our watch brands or our jewel-lery suppliers, solid partnerships have always been the most important fac-tor in the history of our company. This holds true both for management and personnel, because trust and reliability are the elements that now enable us to toast our 50th anniversary in 2014.

Foreword

Dear readers,

Together with you, we wish to cele-brate the fascinating history of a com-pany that owes its name to a venerable Geneva café which used to be a favourite meeting point for the city’s elite. But also the history of a company of which the establishment in Zurich’s Bahn-hofstrasse marked a turning point in the architecture of its time, if I may be permitted to reveal some of the high-lights in this magazine. This issue of L.A Magazine as well as the next will also give a face to all our employees who have made a decisive contribution to the success of our company.

I would like to thank each and every one of you for your unfailing loyalty.

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In 1964, 50 years ago, “Les Ambassadeurs” opened its doors in Geneva for the first time. How did this luxury watch and jewellery boutique decide on its name? It was a stroke of luck. And a good choice because it is a sim-ple and altogether great name which perfectly describes our mission and our origins while being completely interna-tional. At the time, the Café Les Ambassadeurs in the Rue du Rhône was on the point of closing. Up until then, it had been the meeting place for diplomatic circles in Geneva. It was in this café, whose name was taken over by the

1964, founding: first boutique on the Quai Général-Guisan/on the Rue du Rhône in Geneva

HistoRy >

Les Ambassadeurs’ 50th anniversaryAn Interview with CEO Joachim Ziegler

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founders of our company, that we opened our first boutique in 1964.

At the time, one might say that Les Ambassadeurs was the first mono-brand boutique in Switzerland, above all for Omega. Why that particular choice? Omega is the first watch brand to have thought of not selling its watches simply through its some 200 representatives, but also in a boutique specifically dedicated to the brand in an exceptional location. The instigator of this idea was Gameo in Lausanne, the company that was then responsible for dis-tributing Omega. Charles Bauty, owner of Gameo, was also the General Distributor of Tissot and Audemars Piguet Swit-zerland and these two brands started to enrich Omega’s offering. But the transformation into a true multi-brand dis-tributor only took place much later.

The boutique was not alone for long. When did the expansion from Geneva begin?Things began to move under the leadership of Gameo’s visionary director Charles Bauty, who undertook the exten-sion of the boutique network, starting with Zurich in 1971. The opening of the store at number 64 Bahnhofstrasse cre-ated quite a stir. It was the first time that a watch boutique had displayed its wares on several floors, as well as associat-

1964-2014

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Brunner was also a major figure in the parent company in Geneva. Watch enthusiasts and professionals congregated in Les Ambassadeurs’ workshop because Brunner and his team members had a solution to every technical problem. Our repair shops in Geneva, Zurich and Lugano have inherited this philosophy. It was my predecessor, Patrick Frischknecht, who contin-ued to develop our reputation as a temple of the art of watch-making over nearly 15 years by focusing very early on niche brands – many of which are now highly sought after by col-lectors. While space would not permit me to provide an exhaustive list of noteworthy employees, I will just cite the example of Rolf Richner, the most gifted salesman we have ever had in Zurich. Richner contributed to our boutique’s success for four decades as a highly professional, experienced salesman and manager. It therefore makes me very happy to know that in this issue of L.A Magazine and the next he will be presenting the major iconic models he encountered in his long experience at Les Ambassadeurs.

At the beginning of the 1960s, Les Ambassadeurs decided to transform itself into a multi-brand boutique geared towards clients and service.Indeed, that period marked the beginning of Les Ambas-sadeurs’ transformation into a “Leading House of Leading Names”. Our slogan, which remains valid today, comes from our CEO at the time, Dr Heinz O. Weber. Parallel to this, new partner brands such as Cartier, Blancpain and many others were consolidated, while never losing sight of the necessary sense of individuality. Volume has never been a concern for Les Ambassadeurs – we have always focused on quality and especially on comprehensive customer service.

1971: opening of the second exclusive and modern boutique on the Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich

1970s: excellence in customer service is already an acknowledged characteristic of the brand

1979: st. Moritz boutique opens

ing them with Haute Couture apparel and accessories. But the new building in the Bahnhofstrasse also became a place of pilgrimage for architectural enthusiasts. It architectural concept was revolutionary, especially in light of the fact that the floors were connected by escalators.

Before the expansion continued, there was a merger between Siber Hegner and Les Ambassadeurs.In 1976, Les Ambassadeurs was bought up by Siber Hegner, which was part of today’s DKSH Holding SA. At this difficult time just after the petrol crisis, this came as a new stroke of luck for our company, because Siber Hegner decided to encourage the expansion of Les Ambassadeurs and it was thus that new subsidiaries were opened in prime locations: St. Moritz in 1979 and Lugano in 1983.

Nonetheless, Geneva remained the group’s flagship store for a long time?… and still is today, even though the Zurich store has become consistently more important, to the point of being on a par with Geneva following the recent renovations. Don’t forget that the heart of the Swiss watchmaking world beats in Geneva. However, the key role that our Geneva boutique plays is particularly due to Frédéric Jeanjaquet who managed the branch until 1997. For decades, he was the uncrowned ruler of the Western Swiss watchmaking world, mainly thanks to his expertise and his keen sense of the market and brands. As a trained watchmaker, he enjoyed huge respect from our partner brands as well as the watch creators.

Great personalities have always been key to selling watches. Aside from Jeanjaquet, have other people played important roles in the history of Les Ambassadeurs?Jeanjaquet succeeded in having a top-notch team of pro-fessionals around him. Aside from Jeanjaquet, Melchior

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1980s: complete change in strategy and shift to multi-brand sales

1995/98: diagram with the door symbol and slogan

2007: first edition of L.A Magazine 1983: Lugano boutique opens

In your opinion, what are Les Ambassadeurs’ strong points for the future? These range from our salespeople’s professional training to the extreme quality of our repair workshop. Expertise and confidence are decisive factors for our clients, particu-larly in the realm of after-sales service where they can be in direct contact with our watchmakers. We intend to inten-sify these contacts even more in future and especially with watch collectors and connoisseurs, such as through our Watchfinder search engine which is available to our clients on our website. In the past few years, we have focused all our watchmaking workshops on our clients’ needs. And in our lounges, that we call “Espace Connaisseur”, we organise events specially designed to offer watch enthusiasts a closer look at the fascinating world of watches and jewellery.

Les Ambassadeurs is now part of Excellence Holding. Has the strategy implemented in the 1980s been maintained by the new owners?It has been continually extended. Today we offer the wid-est range of brands in Switzerland and we are one of the most important meeting places for watch collectors and connoisseurs in the world. The Al-Rayes family has been the sole owner of Les Ambassadeurs for more than ten years. Our development over the past few years is solely due to its strong attachment to continuity and stability, combined with its passion for the art of watchmaking. Dr Renato A. Vanotti is the Chairman of the Board of Excel-

“We have always focused on quality and especially on comprehensive customer service”

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lence Holding, which he heads in a resolutely circumspect manner that greatly contributes to its current success. He leaves me as CEO plenty of room for manoeuvre, while pro-viding me with the support of his long experience.

Many jewellers and watch boutiques today survive almost exclusively through “global shoppers” and the Chinese in particular. How are things looking for Les Ambassadeurs?We have had an international focus at all our sites, while never losing sight of our local clientele. This has always played a very important role that we want to further rein-force – notably through our watchmaking workshops and the Espace Connaisseur serving as a meeting place for our local clients. We must not forget our origins and our roots, which are definitely local.

Les Ambassadeurs has always played a pioneering role when it comes to the interior design of its shops. Will this still be the case in future?Indeed, this approach began in Zurich at the beginning of the 1970s with the Omega building. This revolutionary con-cept for the time brought us a considerable audience and indeed nearly every day, whole classes came to sit on little fold-up chairs to sketch the architecture of our boutique. Today, there are different needs, so we have redesigned and developed our four shops according to completely modern criteria.

But a parallel with the first boutique in Zurich remains – namely the presence of several floors?That is true – the watchmaking workshop, the advisory and sales area and the Espace Connaisseur extend over three floors. We want to be closer to our clients and above all the watch collectors. Thanks to this modern concept, customers must feel at home with us and be well advised without feel-ing obliged to buy. They must be able to take their time, and we need to offer them conditions enabling them to decide for a watch or a piece of jewellery. And even once this decision is

2008: Espace Connaisseur 2010/13: refurbished boutiques

taken, we are there for our clients by offering them the best possible service in our workshops.

What are the critical lynchpins in Les Ambassadeurs’ multi-brand strategy?Our employees are the key ingredient in our success. Their passion for watches and jewellery, their know-how and the customer service they provide make all the difference. They also constitute the basis of our success with our regular, loyal local clients and our extensive client base all over the world, which includes important watch collectors and con-noisseurs. These aficionados know that we have the most extensive range of watch and jewellery brands in Switzer-land and that they will be served with charm, competence and neutrality, in addition to the fact that our workshops remain at their disposal long after they have made their pur-chase. Thanks to the recent introduction of our Watchfinder, our clients can also obtain information on the most recent products on-line at any time and no matter where they are in the world.

In 2014, Les Ambassadeurs is celebrating its 50th anniversary. What are you planning for this jubilee year?A large number of different events for our clients, partners and employees. We kicked off with updating our history, an endeavour undertaken in collaboration with the Public History Research team. A great many documents and a vast amount of knowledge – which had been lost over time – have now been recovered and reassembled. By devoting two spe-cial sections in this edition of L.A Magazine and the follow-ing one, we are hoping to share this work with our clients, our partner brands and our employees, as well as other inter-ested parties.

Are you planning a jubilee watch?Not just a watch – an entire collection! We owe it to our reg-ular clients and watch collectors. (For further information, please refer to page 33)

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N euchâtel native, Frédéric Jean-jaquet, made a unique mark on the first three decades of the history of Les Ambassa-deurs. A trained watchmaker from La Chaux-de-Fonds, he came to be regarded as the

prince of jewellers and watch salesmen in the watchmaking city of Geneva. He principally owed this reputation to his extensive knowledge of watchmaking, as well as his contacts which extended to the very heart of the watchmaking workshops and his acute sense of the market.

At a very young age, this son of a Neu-châtel labourer managed to secure a place for himself at the very pinnacle amongst connoisseurs and watch sell-ers in Geneva. This was somewhat unusual in the Swiss watchmaking sector which for decades was characterised by family busi-nesses. Jeanjaquet began work at Les Ambassadeurs shortly after the opening of the first boutique in Geneva. This was a stroke of luck during this boom period for watches sales when it was very difficult to find capable and above all expe-rienced staff.

Jeanjaquet was endowed in abundant measure with precisely these qualities of competence and experience. Born in 1937 in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, he virtually absorbed watchmaking with his mother’s milk. Following his training as a watchmaker at the Neuchâtel Technicum, the young Jeanjaquet embarked on an unusual activity for the time: instead of retreating to a workshop, he opted to spend some time abroad. He applied for a job in London and thus acquired the know-how required to be a watch sales advisor at a well-known jewellery store – not to mention the fact that he learnt English which opened many doors for him decades later.

Jeanjaquet brought to Geneva the exact knowledge that was most needed. A mere few months after he was hired, he was entrusted with the manage-ment of Les Ambassadeurs. The bou-tique located on the corner of the elegant shopping streets of the Rue du Rhône and the Quai Guisan swiftly became a reference. Within just a few months, it had acquired a top-notch reputation amongst affluent tourists due to its exceptional customer ser-vice.

A great market strategist, Jeanjaquet understood the potential presented by foreign clients and in conjunction with the hotels, implemented a system tar-geting high-end individual clients in Geneva’s luxury hotels. This discreet, direct service paid off and soon Jean-jaquet was able to open a little branch

in an exceptional location in the heart of the Noga Hilton Hotel. He was thus able to count on a regular clientele con-sisting of rich Arabs and their families. Frédéric Jeanjaquet was less present in the public eye. His strong points were in relation to the maintenance of his extensive network of contacts with the watchmaking world. When a company put a new model into the market, it asked his advice because he was able to evaluate watches both from a technical standpoint and in terms of the reception on the market they were targeting. He frequently invited watch-makers to his holiday home in the Canton of Valais, or he was their guest. Thanks to this close collaboration with all the watch brands, Jeanjaquet made an essential contribu-tion to Les Ambassadeurs’ strong, sustainable multi-brand strategy, developed and implemented around 1980. He lev-eraged the trust thus gained among partner brands in a targeted manner. Little by little, he began to add selected brands to the range. The partner subsidiary in Zurich enor-

Frédéric JeanjaquetA watchmaker becomes the leading light in the watchmaking city of Geneva

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In 1956, Jeanjaquet graduated as a watchmaker from the Neuchâtel Technicum. p

In Geneva, Les Ambassadeurs regularly assumed a sponsorship role. Be it on the lake for sailing regattas or on the road for cycle races, measuring time is essential to sport. pp

i With the staff during an official group visit to the Geneva boutique in the 1960s.

f In 2010, Les Ambassadeurs relocated to the nearby number 62, Rue du Rhône. This move also required transferring the Espace Connaisseur lounge, which opened in 2008, and which was now located on the third and highest floor of this highly successful global concept. The branch is now run by Ignaz Steg and his team.

mously appreciated both his experience and his network of relationships.

Jeanjaquet decided to retire in 1997 and to focus exclusively on his private life. It was only after he left that Zurich finally became Les Ambassadeurs’ principal headquarters. What remains is the memory of the “leading light” of Geneva’s watchmaking sector, which has lived on even after his death in 2010. He personified the idea and spirit of Les Ambassadeurs, as well as help-ing the site and boutique in Geneva to acquire the position that they still hold today.

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April 1971: An important moment is about to take place for the staff of the Les Ambassadeurs boutique. They are travelling to the newly inaugurated Zurich branch – and they are in fact flying there, since things might as well be done in style. After all, the idea is to celebrate the expansion in Zurich and in particular the new building that is revolutionary for

the time. Even the experienced watch sales people in Geneva have never seen a seven-floor watch and jewellery store.

Like all visitors, the Geneva employees enjoy a guided tour of all floors of this sensational new construction located at number 64 Bahnhofstrasse.

From the ground floor right the way up to the very top, the boutique is brimming with a wide variety of areas dedicated to sales, advice and training – all with watches, fashion and jewellery under the same roof. The vision of Charles Bauty, the driving force behind Les Ambassadeurs and the director of the parent company, Gameo, has become a reality.

Omega has brought in its brass band from Geneva to cel-ebrate the inauguration, providing it with an appropriate musical setting. The event attracts thousands of bystanders. The mayor of Zurich, Sigmund Widmer, makes sure he also takes a guided tour of the new building with the Les Ambas-sadeurs management team. He thanks them on behalf of the town and presents them with an award for the quality of the building. In short, the inauguration of the new building in Zurich is a big event and so it should be.

This is because what Zurich-based architect Paul Steger and Gameo’s interior designer have achieved goes beyond anything previously seen on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. In a very short time, the building – affectionately known as the Omega Building due to the large advertisement it carries – becomes a pilgrimage site for architectural students and a classic building that is shown to entire classes who spend their drawing classes studying its ultra-modern façade.

The front of the building was inspired by the Bally building, located just next door and which aesthetically dominates

Seven floors of watches, jewellery and accessories

The opening of the Zurich branch of Les Ambassadeurs was a major event for the Bahnhofstrasse.

this part of the Bahnhofstrasse. This building had itself laid a new milestone for the Bahnhofstrasse. Completed in 1968, it replaced the traditional historical architectural approach with a resolutely modern touch. The Omega building fea-tures a joint-free sheet steel façade. The choice of a relatively dark colour relates to the choice of windows that darken when exposed to sunshine.

This makes it possible to maintain a façade with a uniform appearance in all weather. The architect designed these win-dows to span two floors, so that the ground floor and the intermediate floor could be visually connected for outside observers. But the main aim was to provide maximum space for window decoration and to create as vast a setting as pos-sible for the creators’ future projects. Finally, it was about making this even then high-profile yet inauspicious location an optimal sales platform and a visiting card for the com-pany. In addition, the façade provides an open connection between the internal and external space. The traditional principle of the closed jewellery store has vanished. Clients

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1. Diagram,cross-sectionviewofthebuilding,takenfromanoldLesAmbassadeursbrochure

2. InaugurationoftheboutiqueontheBahnhofstrassein1971

3. Snapshotofthetwo-floordisplaywindow4. Glimpseofthegroundfloor5. WelcomingJapanesegroupson

thelowergroundfloor6. Onthelowergroundfloor,fast

individualadjustmentscanbemadeforsales

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must be able to move around freely as if they were in a large department store.

This generous space is evident from the moment one enters the shop. In a unique fashion for a watch shop, an escala-tor located next to the first sales areas takes visitors down to the lower ground floor level or to up to the first floor. Groups of Japanese tourists who regularly walk up and down the Bahnhofstrasse are guided to the lower ground floor level where they are welcomed at specially designed stands by sales advisors who speak their language. The after-sales ser-vice department is right next to this area. It was only later that the lower ground floor also became home to the Dunhill boutique with clothing and accessories for the elegant man.

Clients taking the escalator up from the ground floor reach an initial intermediate space (first floor) featuring watches with gold bracelets, which are very popular at the time. The floor just above features fashion by Roberta di Cam-erino, a Venetian designer well-known in the 1970s. Ladies’ Haute Couture is offered here under the professional eye of the head of fashion, Beatrice Dreher (-Locher). Les Ambas-sadeurs is responsible for the exclusive distribution of the Venetian brand in Switzerland.

Another floor up is the jewellery exhibition area. English-man Andrew Grima, born in Rome, makes his taste the

symbol of a new generation as noted by the Zurich branch’s brochure at the time. Les Ambassadeurs provides an appro-priate showcase for his international reputation.

The two upper floors are home to the offices and train-ing area as well as a vast watchmaking workshop. Using the most modern equipment for the time, including video recordings, representatives of brands from all over Switzer-land distributed by Les Ambassadeurs are trained in giving advice on and selling the latest models.

During the restructuring that took place in the late 1980s and 90s, the boutique on the Bahnhofstrasse was resized. The area devoted to fashion was closed and Les Ambassadeurs began to focus more on watch brands and luxury jewellery.

With the completion of the avant-garde refurbishment of all four branches, Les Ambassadeurs is beginning its jubi-lee year in 2014 with a modern, refined new look. For the boutiques’ new design, Lucerne-based architect Albert Bol-linger has used only natural wood, natural stone and fabrics selected from contemporary colour compositions. The three floors of the boutique are clearly focused on total client ser-vice, from repairs on the lower ground floor through the ground floor sales area to events for collectors and enthusi-asts held in specially dedicated “Espace Connaisseur” rooms on the first floor.

7. Themodernin-storephonesystemguaranteesperfect communications8. Customeradviceontheintermediatefloor9. SchoolchildrendrawthefaçadeoftheBahnhofstrasse64building

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10. Thesecondfloorishometothefashiondepartment

11. Onthethirdfloor,clientsencounteranexhibitionareapresentingjewelleryTheescalatorprovidesaneffortlessmeansoftransport

12.Theadministrativeofficesandwatchmakingworkshopsareonthefourthfloor

13. Employeescangrabsomethingtoeatinthespaciouscanteenonthefifthfloor

14. Thefifthfloorishometotrainingroomsequippedwiththemostmodernequipment

15. Thewaythingslookafterrenovationworkin2013

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The Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet “Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak was launched on the

market a year before I arrived at Les Ambassadeurs – namely in 1972. It represented an almost com-

plete break with the traditional style of me-chanical watches. It was the first steel watch with a price that matched that of classic gold men’s wristwatches at the time. The truly

revolutionary element was its steel case, which was a perfect combination of elegance

and sportiness. Its octagonal bezel was inspired by the porthole of a British warship called the HMS

Royal Oak. Eight gold screws secure the bezel to the case to form a single whole. It is not only decorative

but also functional.”

Rolf Richner’s classic watches

For 40 years already, clients and young sales advisors have benefited from his vast experience and broad knowledge

of watches and jewellery. Part 1

Rolf Richner began work at Les Ambassadeurs in 1973 as a sales advisor. After training as a chef – his parents managed a restau-rant in Zurich – he sought a challenge in a different sector, some-thing that would fulfil his desire for personal contact and his love of good-quality, high-end products. For Les Ambassadeurs, recruiting him was a stroke of luck. For many years, he also served as branch manager of the Zurich boutique. For the jubilee celebration, Rolf Richner presents a two-part feature highlighting

his personal selection of the ten most precious and most highly appreciated objects illustrating the great art of watchmaking.

You can find the watch of your dreams in just a few clicks by using the online watchfinder. More than 2,000 models from 20 brands can be selected according to various criteria at www.lesambassadeurs.ch/watchfinder.The tool is also available as an app for tablets.

Royal Oak 15202ST.1240ST.01Original 1972 Royal Oak in its presentation box

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The Emergency by Breitling“Breitling built its reputation on the Navitimer pilot’s watch. In 1995, the brand launched the Emergency, which deserves a special men-tion. When we began presenting this watch, a private pilot from Alaska came to the boutique and said: ‘That’s the watch I’m looking for!’ And he wasn’t the only one. One can legitimately consider that Breitling played a pioneering role by equipping the Emergency with a built-in emergency signal transmitter. In the event of an emergency, you need to deploy an antenna. In addition to pilots, cross-country skiers and sailing enthusiasts swear by this model.”

The Tourbillon by Breguet “Abraham-Louis Breguet was undoubtedly one of the most amazing watchmakers of all time. In 1801, he in-vented the tourbillon, a device that made light of grav-ity. The heart of the watch rotated once a minute around its own axis, thus correcting what might call centre of gravity errors. In the 1980s, this principle developed for pocket watches was reintroduced for wristwatches and met with huge success. For historical reasons, the Breguet brand was thus predestined for the tourbillon. I often observe that this type of piece is passed on from father to son – a sure indication that tourbillon watches never lose their value.”

Breguet pocket watch N° 1188, sold in 1808

Breguet Tourbillon 5317BA/12/9V6

1995 Emergency watch

Emergency 2013

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The Tank by Cartier “Cartier was one of the earliest partner brands of Les Ambassadeurs. Cartier’s Tank was quite simply part of an excellent collection. Louis Cartier (1875 – 1942) introduced this model for the first time in 1919 after a long period of

development. The jeweller and designer’s objec-tive was to give a perfect aesthetic shape to the wristwatch which was just becoming fashionable.

Cartier’s idea was to combine the technical side of things with a formal modern style to make an excep-

tional piece of jewellery. Its external characteristic was the rectangular shape that broke away from traditional round stereotypes. Its form was inspired by the silhouette of the tanks used for the first time in the First World War which had just ended. That is how the watch got its name. Another characteristic was the butterfly clasp hidden on the leather strap. This watch has often been fitted with a dial featuring radiating Roman numerals.”

The Patrimony Automatic by Vacheron Constantin “Vacheron Constantin appeals to aficionados by combining the high-est standards with extremely small production volumes. It is all about the very soul of movements. Its timelessly elegant appearance radiates peerless understated elegance. Only a connoisseur will know what he is wearing on his arm. At a very early stage, Vacheron Constantin embraced the criteria laid down by the Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva), an independent official label of quality establishing tech-nical standards that must be met, notably with regard to the specific finish of ébauches (movement blanks). Assembly must be performed exclusively in Geneva. The Hallmark is an exclusive label that guaran-tees four invaluable properties in a watch: origin, extreme precision, longevity and horological expertise.”

1925 Tank wristwatch

Movement of the Patrimony watch engraved with the Hallmark of Geneva

TANK 18 KT W1529756

Patrimony 81180/000G-9117

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Les Ambassadeurs was the cause of much talk during the 1970s, mostly because of the striking, avant-garde archi-tecture of the Omega building in Zurich. Here, women and men of the world were able to choose from watches and jewellery as well as unusual accessories and exclu-sive clothes. Ladies came to purchase upmarket collec-tions by Venetian creator Roberta di Camerino, and men

the elegant British Dunhill line. For large-scale fashion shows aimed at hand-picked clients, the director of the fashion bou-tique Beatrice Dreher presented superb Italian Haute Couture. At the end of the 1980s, Les Ambassadeurs closed its Zurich fashion section in order to focus on watches and jewellery.

Once upon a time...

Roberta di Camerino handbags

Dunhill advice

The second part of the “Les Ambassadeurs 50th anniversary” section will be published in the Portfolio of the next issue of L.A Magazine

Portfolio by: Public History Research (Zurich, Switzerland), an historical publication agency

Roberta di Camerino apparel in the St. Moritz boutique

| L.A 13 | Page 33

Happy Birthday Mr Ambassadeur!Certain moments and dates are of special importance,

and a 50th anniversary is one of them.

These highlights would be nothing without encounters, celebrations and memories. In 2014, Les Ambassadeurs is celebrating its silver jubilee: 50 years of existence since its birth in 1964, representing a story of passions as well as strong, inseparable ties between brands and one of their finest showcases.To toast this important stage, six brands have associa-

ted in paying tribute to the Les Ambassadeurs group, with each offering passionate watch enthusiasts a limited series designed to celebrate this unforgettable milestone.

Each is different, but all are bound together by the same love of fine craftsmanship. They connect traditions to the future, forming an imaginary bridge spanning years gone by and those still to come.While the common denominator of all these models lies in the “1964/2014” engraving appearing on the back of their respective cases, they all feature special characteristics in homage to this anniversary, including a reminder of the Les Ambassadeurs pictogram. Let’s take a closer look at them.

Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain one-off edition

What finer word could there be than “magic” to describe this one-of-a-kind version of the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contempo-rain created by Greubel Forsey? These brilliant masters of the tourbillon are dedicating one of their most beautiful models to Les Ambassadeurs. In addition to exceptional complications, this unique creation features a dial adorned with a tapestry pat-tern exquisitely depicting the Les Ambassadeurs pictogram.This distinctive guilloché motif – along with the complexity of the dial – contributes to accentuating the sense of depth pervading this model. The timepiece is equipped with the now famous tourbillon inclined at a 25-degree angle that performs a complete turn in 24 seconds. This complication alone comprises 88 parts, a number that single-handedly sums up the degree of sophistication and precision required to achieve such a feat.CHF 459,000.– (including VAT)

Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapementone-off edition

Meanwhile, Girard-Perregaux has created an equally appealing unique piece with an exceptional blue-dial version of its famous constant escapement model. Here too, the technological feat is strongly present. Like the Tourbillon 24 Secondes, Girard-Perregaux offers an interpretation of future time through a model featuring a revolutionary calibre. The Constant Escapement is the missing link in watch-makers’ historical quest for precision. With this horo-logical complication, Girard-Perregaux has achieved impressive mastery of constant force and contributed to the advancement of watchmaking technology.CHF 124,200.– (including VAT)

Text: Serge Panczuk

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Bovet AMADEO Fleurier 43 mm five-piece limited edition

This discovery of the gifts from our six watchmaker-magi now takes us to Bovet, which is offering a very special version of its star model: the AMADEO Fleurier 43 mm.The exceptional nature of the AMADEO Fleurier lies in its construction enabling the user to switch seamlessly from a wristworn watch to a small desk clock.This model is a gold interpretation available in a five-piece limited series and featuring a marbled dial echoing the discreet luxury of Les Ambassadeurs boutiques.The watch proposed by Bovet is particularly delicate in terms of both its colours and the craftsmanship of the dial featuring a discreet power-reserve indicator and the distinctive rounded hands.Turning the model over affords a chance to admire the gold oscillating weight engraved with the Les Ambassadeurs pictogram and visible through a sapphire case-back.CHF 49,500.– (including VAT)

Ulysse Nardin Sonata Streamline eight-piece limited edition

The next of these magnificent limited editions is a model by Ulysse Nardin.It is a variation on the Sonata Streamlined issued in a limited series of eight.To celebrate the 50th anniversary of Les Ambassadeurs, the Ulysse Nardin teams have opted for a model that is a fine tribute to this name that embodies refine-ment as well as connotations of travel. The Sonata features horological complications that are useful to travellers, ranging from an innovative alarm function to a dual-time display. It is equipped with a sophis-ticated, beautiful and high-performance Manufacture-made movement.The charm of this model also lies in its deliberately contemporary, edgy design clad in black titanium and enhanced by red gold accents that define the character of this limited series.CHF 41,800.– (including VAT)

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Panerai PAM 565 50-piece limited edition

Panerai is naturally associated with its Italian roots and enjoys a longstanding relationship with Les Ambassadeurs. The Luminor with its sturdy 44 mm case set what was to become a strong and enduring trend.The brand that originated in Florence has created a 50-piece limited edition of its Luminor 1950 for Les Ambassadeurs. This PAM 565 model featuring a dial with Arabic numerals is driven by a Manufacture P 9000 move-ment and fitted with a sapphire case-back. It is teamed with an Assolutamente strap and en-graved with the Les Ambassadeurs pictogram and the anniversary date: 1964/2014.CHF 7,700.– (including VAT)

Breitling Navitimer 15-piece limited edition

Breitling is saluting Les Ambassadeurs with a limited edition of its most legendary model: the Navitimer.Interpreted in a gold/steel version with a black dial, this model is powered by the famous Manufacture Breitling Caliber 01, considered by aficionados to be one of the finest chronograph calibres currently available. Thus equipped, the Navitimer Les Ambassadeurs limited edition combines historical charm with a unique look and a high-tech move-ment. As on the other anniversary models, the back of the case is engraved with the Les Ambassadeurs logo and the anniversary date: 1964/2014, while the limited edition number appears on the side.CHF 12,580.–(including VAT)

(All prices indicated are subject to change)

Text: Vincent Daveau

The worlds of sport and adven-ture have consistently inspired watchmakers. Driven by a sense of a mission to accomplish, they have made it their business to measure performance coupled with a profound desire to asso-

ciate their identity with this universe filled with emotion and powerful im-ages. Some have taken 50 years to write

instruments to celebrate man’s victory over the stopwatch. Enduringly fasci-nated by athletics and winter sports such as skiing in which it is deeply involved, it has perfected incredible instruments over the past 50 years designed to time athletes from the different disciplines for which it was responsible to the near-est 1/100th and finally to the 1/1000th of a second. More recently, the com-

Marc A. Hayek at the wheel during the Super Trofeo © Blancpain

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their story, while others, younger or keener to increase their fields of com-petence, have made their mark quicker in order to achieve legitimacy in the sec-tors that appealed to them.In reality, watch brands have been in-terested in sport for more than 50 years, because performance and competition are inseparable. And competition spells a need to draw a line between competi-tors – which in turn implies recourse to timekeeping that both measures the progress of adversaries and calculates the gap between them. What is more, being involved in a sport trains the spot-light on companies with the ability to produce robust, efficient timepieces to match the athletes or adventurers who use them. Longines was unquestionably one of the first to grasp the importance of celebrating the feats of modern-day heroes by displaying with complete impartiality the time it took to achieve them. It thus timed the first Athens Olympic Games in 1896, as well as Lind-bergh’s aeronautical exploit in 1927. In the wake of these achievements, it developed ever more high-performance

pany with a passion for elegance has chosen to partner and serve as official timekeeper for sports that embody such deeply cherished nobility. This is doubt-less why it has been keeping time at the French Open tennis tournament since 2007 – and also explains why from this year onward it is playing the same role for the Fédération Equestre Internation-ale, having now taken up its place as if it had always been there.Some companies prefer to invest in oth-er areas of competition such as motor-sports. Jaeger-LeCoultre, for example, has developed a relationship with As-ton Martin and offers timepieces born of this partnership. These distinctive models with designs liberally inspired by cars have proven themselves on the wrists of pilots and hugely impressed collectors or owners of Aston Martins, delighted to know that they could match their watch to their car. The same goes for Breitling and its perfect love affair with the prestigious British car maker Bentley. The benchmarks established have demonstrated their effectiveness on the ground. Even better, the studied

50 years celebrating sport and watchmaking

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© Ja

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L.A_50 YEARS OF SPORT

graphic similarities between cars and watches have made it possible to create a close link between these two industrial entities. Marc Hayek, CEO of Blancpain and a racing car driver himself, wanted to create for his brand just such a pow-erful partnership between two worlds built around mechanics. By setting up the Super Trofeo and the watches associ-ated with these monotype races (involv-ing Lamborghinis), the Manufacture already renowned for its complications and its diving watches has managed to assert itself in the world of motor racing in less than ten years. For certain brands like Breitling, for ex-ample, aviation also represents a sport with amazing potential for adventure. Its creations for the pilots of aerobatic teams are also designed to meet the needs of amateur pilots and fans of aerobatics displays. In this respect, the emblematic Navitimer, the timeless Transocean or the robust Chronomat are unrivalled horological instruments in the world of aeronautics. By the same to-ken, the latest version of the Emergency is a dedicated timepiece that is basically

intended to be part of the standard gear of adventurers aware of the importance of having a personal distress alert sys-tem alongside a means of keeping track of time. Undoubtedly, its functionali-ties and the security that an instrument like this brings its wearer will ensure this timepiece a place in history for the same reason as the original Emergency, a benchmark model that has already helped save countless lives. Still in the realm of aviation, Breguet’s name

Breitling, Navitimer

The Longines Future Tennis Aces programme enables the brand to support future tennis champions. A glimpse here in Paris of the tournament held alongside the French Open at Roland Garros

The vertical-trigger AMVOX chronograph by Jaeger-LeCoultre, developed with Aston Martin

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is inseparable from the famous Type XX chronographs created for French fighter pilots during the 1950s and 60s, before proceeding to conquer the wrists and hearts of civilial aerial sports enthusi-asts. A similar fate has been experienced by Panerai, a company specialising in the manufacture of diving watches for navy frogmen. In less than ten years, it has managed to transform its mili-tary image into a somewhat more gen-eral nautical orientation that was in any case part of its DNA, by restoring the Bermuda ketch Eilean and by focusing on classic yacht regattas. Jaermann & Stübi, Seve Ballesteros

Panerai sponsors the largest international regatta circuit,

reserved for vintage sailboats, the Panerai Classic Yachts

Challenge

In terms of sports partnerships, certain brands such as Jaermann & Stübi have gone even further than a mere rela-tionship or a presence in the field. This company that specialises in the world of golf aims to establish a fusional bond between the athlete and his or her time-piece. It is achieving this through the development of small series of watch-making instruments capable of assist-ing players on the golf course due to its dedicated functions.

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Text: Olivier Müller

Nevertheless, the round shape sur-vived. Confronted with this new wave, certain companies remained doubtful. Jaeger-LeCoultre tried blue and choco-late-toned dials, but that was about as far as it went. Cartier adapted its shapes (Tortue, Baignoire, etc.) but did not take things any further, and nor did Breguet or Blancpain. As if awaiting a return to more time-honoured aesthetic values, the brands hung on, thereby preserving the longevity of the round shape.

Newcomers, new aesthetic codesThe first brand that succeeded in blaz-ing its own trail, somewhere between daring and tradition, was Audemars Piguet. The company took advantage of the prevailing creative momentum to inaugurate a segment that did not yet exist – that of ‘sport chic’, sometimes re-ferred to as casual chic. With its famous Royal Oak introduced in 1972, the watch manufacturer was to become insepara-bly associated with its taut, unique de-sign created overnight by Gérald Genta.This ability to adopt a design was to serve as a lesson. In 1991, Franck Muller reappropriated the XXL barrel or ton-neau shape. In 1997, Panerai established the diving watch in its most enduring aesthetic expression (Luminor). Bell & Ross brought the cockpit to the wrist

50 years of watchmaking shapes

From the timid 1960s to the daring 21st century, Les Ambassadeurs have witnessed the birth of a great many styles. The circular shape, while always a favourite, was frequently challenged prior to becoming a standard. After the creative wave of the Seventies, independent watchmakers today have managed to raise so-called ‘form’ or ‘shaped watches’ to art status.

For 50 years, the round shape of watches appeared invincible, al-though this did not mean it was unchanging!The most visible variation is that of its size. In the 1960s, the watch was utilitarian – displaying the

hours, minutes and seconds, along with the date for the more adventurous. The design was therefore sober, favouring readability and harmony of shape. Dar-ing never went beyond 34 -38 mm. This discretion was to evolve several times in the decades to come. In the Sev-enties, the fashion for precision chron-ographs led watchmakers to design 40 mm dials capable of ensuring perfect readability of the measured times. But with the arrival of the quartz in 1969, the round shape, naturally resulting from the arrangement of the gear trains, was no longer a must. Quartz also allowed designers to break free of the wheels that had had kept them turning in cir-cles for a century!Thus freed, watchmaking drew its in-spiration from everything fashionable: the future, space conquest, IT, televi-sion, etc. – the kind of influences that often involved square or rectangular designs. There was a spate of oversized TV screen-type models, with sometimes dubious colour and metal associations.

(BR01). As for Jaeger-LeCoultre, it set out to emphasise its historical legitimacy in this domain by introducing Art Deco variations of its Reverso. Little by little, the codes of watchmaking design found their rightful owners.

Dominant gold and dominated finishesGold, one of the most enduring materi-als in watchmaking, also took a back-seat in the 1970s. Nevertheless, this was but a fleeting hiatus and long-estab-lished manufacturers such as Vacheron Constantin or Cartier always retained it as their preferred material no matter what the epoch. Gold was not however always a lone ranger. In the 1980s, its best ally be-came… steel! This partnership corre-sponded to the tastes of an emerging class of watchmaking which, as a new-comer to the field, sought to apply its disruptive codes to conventional metals so as to visible signal its arrival. Often referred to as ‘bling-bling’, this genera-tion held shiny yellow gold in such high esteem that designs were in fact altered to feature sturdier case middles that tended to impinge on the dial, as well as the first all-gold bracelets. The manual finishes that we are once again seeing today (Côtes de Genève, circular grain-ing, etc.) became less popular.

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Vacheron Constantin – 1972 Prestige, an extremely daring embodiment of the Seventies spirit

Urwerk – EMC, the freedom of

contemporary design

Breguet – Classique, pure classicism

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turous by nature, they have explored unprecedented associations of materi-als and new shapes. For other independents, technique is the most important thing and this very fact considerably modifies the design of their timepieces. Greubel Forsey illustrates this trend with several new characteris-tics. Firstly, the thicker cases mean that the movement can be given real depth, breaking away from the flat surfaces of traditional dials. Then, there are cases featuring side openings. For the first time the case-middle is fitted with a sap-phire crystal enabling the calibre to be admired from the side. Finally, certain liberties are taken with the round shape, such as when Greubel Forsey gives it sub-tly curved sides in order to install a power reserve, a tourbillon or a globe.

Today, gold has gone back to less ostenta-tious considerations. Firstly because the bling era has had its day; and secondly because other materials such as tanta-lum, silicon, ceramics and carbon fibre have challenged its supremacy. Some of these were behind the black dials that have emerged in the 2000s (Breitling Avenger, Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Com-pressor, etc.). Above all, they enable designers such as at Harry Winston to dream up models in shapes previously unknown in watchmaking and creating multiple shimmering effects.

The independent waveThese brands, in addition to Urwerk or Cabestan, share the fact that they were or are independent. More adven-

Octavio Garcia, Artistic Director at Audemars Piguet

50 YEARS OF DESIGN_L.A

1. Jaeger-LeCoultre – Grande Reverso and

its swivelling rectangular case

2. Cartier – Bagnoire with its

unique style

3. Greubel Forsey – a stunning view

illustrating the principle of fitting the case-middle

with a sapphire crystal

4. Bovet – AMADEO Fleurier 44 Virtuoso and its

spectacular tourbillon

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So seventiesThe roots of this creative freedom ac-tually go back considerably further. The 1970s had already seen the intro-duction of other less technical and one might say less noble materials, such as plastic, which could be moulded into just about any shape. Some caught the wave of opportunity and rode it into the field of traditional watchmak-ing. Thus, in 1984, institutions such as the AHCI (Horological Academy of Independent Watch Creators) demon-strated that new designs were possi-ble. Since then, brands such as Urwerk have appeared, combining completely new case shapes with 21st century materials.These shaped or form watches also stemmed from a new desire on the part of the public: namely to be able to actually see the horological com-plications. This as a creative direction already amply explored by a company like Blancpain, which since the 1990s had demonstrated its experience in the domain of the tourbillon by offer-ing several models in which this de-vice was visible from the dial side.This visible tourbillon became the symbol of Bovet (Amadeo) and Cartier (ID One). In the same way, A. Lange & Söhne and Audemars Piguet (Grandes

Complications), Blancpain (cal. 1735) as well as Jaeger-LeCoultre (Hybris Mechanica), have set about high-lighting the value of their technical heritage. Aesthetically, dials have now become packed with multiple complications, leading designers to focus on readability. Straight baton-type hands, simple hour-markers and natural coloured metals are thus now once again the norm.

4

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Text: Gaëlle Sinnassamy-Chaar

Why travel the world in search of the exceptional when, tucked away on the mountain peaks, next to the lake or in the heart of the city, Swiss luxury plays the quintessential cards of uniqueness and distinction? Its cardinal values include avoiding outsize logos or showy opulence and instead providing the ultimate in refi nement coupled with a sense of discretion devoid of artifi ce. Legendary palace hotels, talented multi-starred chefs, numbered skis,

shoes made of rare leather, prestigious runabouts, jewel-like putters: far from burying itself in the hush, plush world of watchmaking, Swiss expertise invents and reinvents itself far from the beaten track with the aim of bedazzling the world’s jetset. An anthology of extreme luxury made in Switzerland.

If the shoe fits... iCreated in Geneva in 1909, Arturo Belli has been producing custom-made shoes for men across the past four generations and the house is currently headed by the char-ismatic Tony Giglio. His philosophy? To cre-ate shoes that perfectly fi t the shape of the foot and which may be customised at will. Be it ostrich, blue sharkskin or the softest calf leather – the client selects his leather, as well as the inside and outside colours, size and model. The most demanding require absolute uniqueness. More than 250 interventions are required to make a single pair. Ten days later, the finished object – crafted in Carouge by master shoe makers – is delivered with its emblematic sole marked with a cross and accompanied by a red cedar wood shoe tree. www.arturobelli.ch

THE PINNACLEOF ‘SWISS MADE’!

travel the world in search of the exceptional when, tucked away on the mountain peaks, next to the lake or in the heart of the city, Swiss luxury plays the quintessential cards of uniqueness and distinction? Its cardinal values include avoiding outsize logos or showy opulence and instead providing the ultimate in refi nement coupled with a sense of discretion devoid of artifi ce. Legendary palace hotels, talented multi-starred chefs, numbered skis,

shoes made of rare leather, prestigious runabouts, jewel-like putters: far from burying itself in the hush, plush world of watchmaking, Swiss expertise invents and reinvents itself far from the beaten track with the aim of bedazzling the world’s jetset. An anthology of extreme luxury made in Switzerland.

If the shoe fits... iCreated in Geneva in 1909, Arturo Belli has been producing custom-made shoes for

THE PINNACLEOF ‘SWISS MADE’!

My beautiful Christmas tree! ipFifteen or so people are busy in Johann Wanner’s workshop. Christmas is coming and that means the yearly peak of activity. Specialising in Christmas tree decoration, this native of Basel decorates trees for the most prestigious palaces, for the Vatican, for big depart-ment stores such as the Galeries Lafayettes or Fortnum & Mason, as well as well-known personalities, political fi gures, stars and royalty. It must be said that Mr Wanner is in fact kept busy year-round so as to be sure to keep pace with current trends and to hunt out the ultimate ornaments, multi-coloured blown glass balls, giant fairy lights and strands of tinsel, as well as Santa Claus, stars, reindeer, pine cones and angels from the four corners of the earth – all of which he fashions to order and sells in his two boutiques in the city on the Rhine. www.johannwanner.ch

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A Swiss chef in New York sDaniel Humm, who hails from a Swiss village in the Canton of Aargau named Schinznach-Dorf, is helping spread the reputation of Swiss gastronomy well beyond national borders. Having settled on the other side of the Atlantic, he has been exercising his art since 2006 at the Eleven Madison Park – a triple-starred establishment and the New York jetset’s place to be – of which he is now both Chef and owner. Regarded as one of the world’s fi nest culinary temples and winner of the most prestigious awards, the restaurant with its monumental windows, high ceilings and marble Art Deco dining room overlooks the historical gardens of Madison Square Park. This is the ideal loca-tion to try out the inventive, modern, sophisticated dishes conjured up by the master of the house. www.elevenmadisonpark.com

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The luxury putter pThe term ‘valedictorian’ refers to a top-performing student in an American school who is chosen to deliver the farewell speech on behalf of the graduating class. It also stands for a confi dential luxury brand that remains a jealously guarded secret among wealthy and seasoned golfi ng addicts. At the crossroads between the world of golf and Fine Watchmaking, the Geneva brand designs high-performance putters in precious gold or platinum. All are issued in limited editions and each one of these tools repre-senting the ultimate in terms of both technical prowess and aesthetic refi nement may be customised on request, set with diamonds, rubies or other rare stones and engraved with its owner’s initials. A must for aesthetically minded sports enthusiasts. www.valedictorian.ch

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Chic turntable iWell-known among dedicated music lovers and geekish hi-fi addicts, Audio Consulting is raising high tech to art status. Each creation com-bines technical excellence and aesthetic research. Acoustic Engineer Serge Schmidlin dreams up these little jewels in Commugny in the Canton of Vaud, and all are hand made in Swizerland. Carved out of a wooden block and and boasting almost perfect quality, the R-evo-lution Minima turntable is composed of a wooden plinth along with ceramic and bronze parts. Free of electric disturbance due to its bat-tery-operated motor, the turntable is at the very top end of luxury disc players. www.audio-consulting.ch

THE PINNACLE OF ‘SWISS MADE’!

tery-operated motor, the turntable is at the very top end of luxury disc players. www.audio-consulting.ch

Aboard a Pedrazzini sAn Italian sails a Riva and a Swiss a Pedrazzini – luxury run-abouts made by the Zurich company for nearly a century. The 7.47-metre long and 2.45 m-wide Capri is the most com-pact model made by the company. Thousands of operations are required before the boat, which is produced in very limited numbers, is ready to emerge from the shipyard in Bäch. With its hand-crafted hinges and air vents cast in bronze and then chrome-plated, rare wood dashboard, teak flooring on the swimming deck, streamlined navigation lights, along with the mahogany gearstick knob, there is no doubt here that true luxury lies in details. www.pedrazziniboat.com

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Jakob Schlaepfer fNot many people know his name, and yet his creations are everywhere. On glossy paper, in fashion shows or at the-most sought-after interior designers. Jakob Schlaepfer’s skill? Designing excep-tional fabrics, pure textile jewels with the most amazing textures and eff ects. Be it Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Emanuel Ungaro, Chanel, Christian Dior, Marc Jacobs or Louis Vuitton, the entire haute couture world calls upon the talents of the St. Gallen-based designer. The tex-tile artist also off ers beautiful curtain and wallpaper collections. His creations notably include the wallpaper in the new rooms of the Swissotel Metropole Geneva.www.jakob-schlaepfer.ch

The Rolls Royce of skis f“Our motto is paring down to absolute essentials in our quest for natural equilibrium. A Zai ski features exactly what a ski needs and nothing more” explains Simon Jacomet, designer and founder of the Swiss brand that celebrated its tenth anniversary in 2013. Nothing more? That is in fact a moot point... At the factory in the Graübunden region of eastern Switzerland, each pair is unique, numbered and made to measure. Anything is possible: the choice of veneer, engraved initials, the degree of hardness, the particular curve, the geometry. It thus comes as no surprise that Zai works with such a prestigious company as Bentley, for which it has produced an exclusive limited edition of 100 pairs featuring ultra-technical materials and sporting the colours of the iconic car manufacturer. www.zai.ch

Suvretta House pIn 1911, Anton Sebastian Bon had the idea of creating a pres-tigious hotel a stone’s throw from St. Moritz in the fairytale setting of the Chasellas plateau. Offering panoramic views over the mountains and the lakes of the Upper Engadine region, the castle perched 1,850 metres above sea level between Alpine prai-ries and forests swiftly became an indispensable address for the happy few. A few hundred years later, Suvretta House is ranked amongst the most highly regarded fi ve star hotels due to its direct access to the ski runs, its 1700 square-metre spa, its 181 rooms and suites of unparalleled elegance and above all its legendary reception area, the sumptuous hotel's beating heart graced with club chairs and welcoming fi replaces contributing to its aura of idyllic, intimate luxury.www.suvrettahouse.ch

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Text: Marco Cattaneo Illustration: Nicolas Zentner

It is already 50 years since the initial Les Ambassadeurs boutique opened on the Rue du Rhône, one of Gene-va’s most prestigious streets. Fifty: one of those numbers to which we accord almost pagan reverence. They attract us, standing like

totems, digital or temporal markers amid the flow of our actions, giving rise to an irrepressible need in us to celebrate a phase when we reach them. 50 is not a primary number; it is devoid of all mythology; and it repre-sents only a poor metal – tin – on chem-ists’ periodic table. In photography it demonstrates a total absence of any form of bias: it is the focal length of re-ality, neither wide angle nor zoom, but a neutral eye, left to individual inter-pretation. Fifty therefore has no inher-ent merit of its own, apart from being exactly half of a hundred.

And that is exactly what we find fas-cinating. It takes us back to that uni-versal duality proposed by Plato, when he divided the world in two to make it more intelligible, as if the half made it easier to understand the whole, with the visible on one side and ideas on the others – the divide between shadows and reality. Responsible for both past and future, fifty tells the tale of the progress made and that still to be accomplished, richer and more complex than the completed whole of which it

is merely a part: fifty is a promise, a hundred is a work accomplished. Fifty is about Adam searching for Eve, the Yin ready for the Yang, night awaiting the promise of dawn, one half of the universe. It is the peak of the moun-tain and the middle of the ocean. Fifty is a remarkable place, the moment of silence between the tick tock of a watch. Fifty is a mid-way break in all that which around us works in pairs or in alternation: the time it takes to ascend and the time it takes to descend, the beating of a heart, the very music of our breathing or the vibrations of a balance wheel.

Half a hundred, fifty is also the ambas-sador of this decimal system that is magnificently ignored by craftsmen of time measurement. In 1927, there was the tyrannical clock to which Fritz Lang chained the workers in his film Metropolis. Its dial had ten hour-mar-kers, symbolising rational, efficient and inhuman organisation of work, a watchmaking caricature of the “taylor- ism” that ruled supreme at that time on the other side of the Atlantic in Henry Ford’s automobile factories. Ear-lier, in the wake of the French revolu-tion and a certain Bonaparte who was not yet Napoleon, scientists imposed the metric system at the end of the 18th century. They also had a new means of measuring time in their bag of bits,

Fifty,or the triumph

of the halfway mark

in the shape of a day carved into ten hours, each consisting in 100 minutes or 10,000 seconds. But nobody wanted it. There was a fresh attempt a hun-dred years later, with the invention of “centidays”, each a hundredth of a day long. The father of this principle, a certain Monsieur de Rey-Pailhade, was consigned to oblivion along with his invention.

Thus watchmaking has resisted the decimal system, leaving it but a tiny gap in the realm of the second, where time ceases to be poetic and becomes Cartesian with tenths, hundredths and thousandths. For the rest, it continues to prefer its Babylonian heritage, more than 20 centuries old, which measures time in multiples of six. So does the very nature of our famous fifty prohibit it from appearing on a watch?

Obviously not. If it were to be inscribed on the dial of a watch, it would natu-rally be at 6 o’clock, at the nadir, the lowest point of the path travelled by the hands. The very place where mas-ter-watchmakers delight in positioning complications in their quest for balance and harmony. This spot often hosts a date window or small seconds coun-ter, an enamelled moon-phase disc or an ethereally light tourbillon carriage. Fifty, on a watch, is home to a wealth of remarkable elements.

CHRONICLE_L.A

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Text: Vesna Mitrovic

RENDEZVOUS

WITH

WATCHMAKING

FANS

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ESPACE CONNAISSEUR_L.A

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Building on 50 years of experi­ence in the field of Fine Watch­making and in collaboration with world­famous watch brands, LES AMBASSADEURS have already organised a number of events in the Espace Connaisseur. The lat­

ter is a much­appreciated place where one can take stroll, browse and gaze; its warm, friendly atmosphere is an invitation to take the time to admire impressive collector’s items in a com­pletely serene, unhurried manner.The Espace Connaisseur evenings designed for connoisseurs and enthusi­asts are also very successful, since they enable these individuals to share their passion for the art of Fine Watchmaking with LES AMBASSADEURS. In a small group and within a very private atmos­phere, attendees of these events can thus enjoy fascinating presentations given by renowned speakers in the watchmak­ing field as well as by experts from well­reputed watch manufacturers.To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the LES AMBASSADEURS group, the pro­gramme put together for the upcoming Espace Connaisseur evenings comprises particularly interesting and fascinat­ing themes that are bound to appeal to participants.

More detailed information on the evenings organised in the Espace Connaisseur are available on the http://www.lesambassadeurs.ch/en/connaisseurs.html website, and can also be obtained from our teams in Geneva, Lugano and Zurich

50 years of design: Shapes

Watches come in a wide variety of guises. Discreet or flashy, understated or avant­garde, there is generally one to suit every taste. This evening, as we travel back in time, we will be sure to evoke the memory of the colourful sports watches of the 1970s or the modern designs of 1990s models, as well as pocket­watches bearing testimony to bygone eras.

50 years of artistic crafts: movement finishing

In the 18th and 19th centuries, customers already ordered extremely precious pocket­watches adorned in keeping with their wishes. Luxury watch manufacturers devote special importance to movement decoration, a process that transforms the overall composition into an exceptional work of art that is as fascinating as horological complications themselves. This craft calls for precision and exactitude that in turn demand extensive technical knowledge and years of experience. This evening, we will present some authentic works of art by well­known watch brands.

50 years of techniques: Escapements

We owe technical revolutions such as the constant­force escapement to the exceptionally inventive spirit of legendary watch manufacturers. This evening, we take a closer look at the heart of the movement as we discuss the historical development of escapements.

50 years of professional watches: Sports watches

Watches today are indispensable companions in the most varied aspects of our daily lives. This evening, we are setting off with you to discover the world of professional watches designed for divers, pilots or top­class sportsmen and women. At the same time, we will be presenting avant­garde models that look as if they come from another dimension.

50 years of extraordinary horological complications: Striking mechanisms

In an age when there was no electricity or artifical lighting, people depended on audible signals. Enabling a wristwatch to chime out the time at the press of a pusher is a complex task, and we are delighted to examine this mechanism in more detail with you this evening.

Geneva: Tuesday, 28.1.2014Lugano: Wednesday, 29.1.2014Zurich: Thursday, 30.1.2014

Geneva: Tuesday, 18.3.2014Zurich: Wednesday, 19.3.2014Lugano: Thursday, 20.3.2014

Geneva: Tuesday, 20.5.2014Lugano: Wednesday, 21.5.2014Zurich: Thursday, 22.5.2014

Geneva: Tuesday, 23.9.2014Lugano: Wednesday, 24.9.2014Zurich: Thursday, 25.9.2014

Geneva: Tuesday, 18.11.2014Lugano: Wednesday, 19.11.2014Zurich: Thursday, 20.11.2014

RENDEZVOUS

WITH

WATCHMAKING

FANS

EspacE connaissEur

L.A_EVENTS

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1. Zurich Classic Car Award2. Ladies Only Party

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EVENTS_L.A

3. Poestate Lugano4. Breitling factory tour5. Les Vendanges de Genève

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L.A_PEOPLE

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What is your role at Les Ambassadeurs?I am passionate about my work and have really found the ideal position as a sales consultant.

How long have you been working for Les Ambassadeurs?I started on November 1st 2006, so that makes seven years so far.

What have the three most important phases in your career been?I grew up in Portugal and came to Switzerland at the age of 20 in the 1990s. I wanted to go abroad and loved watches from a very early age. One of the greatest turning points of my career was the chance to come and work at Les Ambassadeurs. That was the most important step

in professional terms because it was really a dream come true.

What do you like doing in your spare time?I am very keen on sport – and particularly cycling. I am also a great fan of music.

In terms of watchmaking, what is your favourite complication and why?Definitely the perpetual calendar. I have always been impressed by how such a large and sophisticated complication can be fitted inside such a small case.

What is your dream watch?A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 for its design, its purity and its understated elegance.

What would your ideal holiday destination be? I am not a great traveller but I would be keen to go to Brazil. Maybe because I am Portuguese and it is a country that intrigues me.

And finally, do you have a motto you live by? If so, what is it? Think positive!

Address of the Geneva Boutique:Rue du Rhône 62 – 1204 Geneva

T. +41 (0)22 318 62 22

geneve@lesambassadeurs.ch

Joaquim JacobLes Ambassadeurs Geneva

Text: Mathilde Binetruy

PEOPLE_L.A

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What is your role at Les Ambassadeurs?I am a sales consultant but I also manage the apprentices and the jewellery after-sales service.

How long have you been working for Les Ambassadeurs?I have been here for three and a half years.

What have the three most important phases in your career been?Following my apprenticeship at Bucherer in Lucerne, I began my career in a little watch and jewellery boutique. After that, I worked on a cruise ship for seven months. Once I returned home, I applied for a job at Les Ambassadeurs. Today, my greatest challenge is training the apprentices. I love supporting young people in

their first professional experience and following their development.

What do you like doing in your spare time?Last year, I started playing golf. Although I am still a beginner, I really enjoy it. I also like jogging and spending time with my friends and family.

In terms of watchmaking, what is your favourite complication And why?I have always been fascinated by the perpetual calendar. It is one of the great complications and its design is a real technical achievement!

What is your dream watch?A diamond-set steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. I love its sporty, classic

Caroline StutzLes Ambassadeurs Zurich

design which has been tried and trusted for more than 40 years.

What would your ideal holiday destination be? My mother is from the Philippines and I go there every two years. The beaches are breathtaking. Every time I go I try a different island.

And finally, do you have a motto? If so, what is it? The greatest wealth is contentment.

Address of the Zurich boutique:Bahnhofstrasse 64 - 8001 Zurich

T. +41 (0)44 227 17 17

zuerich@lesambassadeurs.ch

Text: Mathilde Binetruy

L.A_PEOPLE

Page 56 | L.A 13 |

What is your role at Les Ambassadeurs?I work for the after-sales service.

How long have you been working for Les Ambassadeurs?I have been with Les Ambassadeurs for three years.

What have the three most important phases in your career been?I went to hotel school and began my career as a receptionist prior to being a concierge and accountant. When I came to Ticino, the luxury hotel industry was in trouble and so I looked for a job in another area. After ten years in a watch boutique where I supported the master-watchmaker, I joined Les Ambassadeurs Lugano.

What do you like doing in your spare time?Swimming is one of my passions. It is also very important to me to spend time with my family.

In terms of watchmaking, what is your favourite complication and why?My favourite is the minute repeater. It is not by chance that the chiming mechanism of a minute repeater is considered to be one of the most sophisticated complications.

What is your dream watch?It’s all there in the name of this exceptional timepiece issued in a 100-piece limited edition: the Alexander the Great Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts minute repeater by Ulysse Nardin.

What would your ideal holiday destination be? I prefer warm countries such as the French West Indies and the Caribbean.

And finally, do you have a motto you live by? If so, what is it?Service is what makes all the difference.

Address of the Lugano boutique:Via Nassa 5 – 6900 Lugano

T. +41 (0)91 923 51 56

lugano@lesambassadeurs.ch

Osvaldo BrescianiniLes Ambassadeurs Lugano

Text: Mathilde Binetruy

PEOPLE_L.A

| L.A 13 | Page 57

What is your role at Les Ambassadeurs?I manage the boutique. Everyone on the team has a very different professional background but we are all united by a shared passion for watchmaking.

How long have you been working for Les Ambassadeurs?I have been here for 11 years and my aim has remained the same since I got here: to ensure customer satisfaction.

What have the three most important phases in your career been?I was born in Egypt and I stayed there until I was 25. I studied mechanics and I was given a chance to work in the jewellery industry. When I arrived in Switzerland, I honed my professional

experience with the Christ and Meister retailers prior to joining the team at Les Ambassadeurs St. Moritz in 2002.

What do you like doing in your spare time?I am very keen on chess, winter sports and jogging. Basically, I’m up for any challenge that arises.

In terms of watchmaking, what is your favourite complication and why?That is very hard to answer because I like virtually all the complications. If I had to choose, I would pick the minute repeater. It represents the very essence of the art of watchmaking.

What is your dream watch?That is a question that should be asked in the plural because there are so many!

Mohamed ShaabanLes Ambassadeurs St. Moritz

What would your ideal holiday destination be? I have no shortage of places I would like to escape to: Canada, Dubai, Japan…

And finally, do you have a motto you live by? If so, what is it?If you respect others, others will respect you.

Address of the St. Moritz boutique:Palace Galerie - 7500 St. Moritz

T. +41 (0)81 833 51 77

stmoritz@lesambassadeurs.ch

Text: Mathilde Binetruy

Photographer: Richard FrémontAssistant: Manuel Obadia-Wills

Production: Opus MagnumArt Director: Nicolas ZentnerHair & Make-up: Julie Monot

Styling: Agnès BoudryModel: Marine

18K white gold earrings with aquamarines, amethysts and diamondsRef. PCD01-BB020106CT104.28 – CHF 19,980.–

18K white gold necklace with aquamarine, amethyst and diamondsRef. PCD02-BB020106CT81.07 – CHF 18,600.–

18K white gold earrings with white diamonds, 4.04 cts.

Ref. GE12308 – CHF 107,900.–

18K white gold necklace with white diamonds, 5.95 cts.

Ref. GP11966 – CHF 93,500.–

18K white gold ring with white diamonds, 2.17 cts.

Ref. GR16167 – CHF 75,000.–

18K white gold ring with white diamonds, 1.06 cts.

Ref. GR19620 – CHF 25,000.–

Siriana Collection

18K white gold necklaceRef. MCT83001B – CHF 3,890.–

18K white gold pendant set with diamondsRef. MCI8300A – CHF 6,020.–

18K white gold bracelet set with diamonds Ref. MBR83001 – CHF 21,750.–

18K white gold ring set with diamonds Ref. MAN83000A – CHF 3,160.–

Desmos Collection

18K white gold earrings with black 11-12 mm South Sea cultured pearls, white diamonds

Ref. OBH70BB – CHF 16,050.–

18K white gold ring with black 12-13 mm South Sea cultured pearl, white diamonds

Ref. ABH72BB – CHF 9,900.–

Perles Collection

Necklace of black 12-14 mm South Sea cultured pearls

Ref. NMRR490-33 – CHF 59,600.–

18K white gold ring with white baroque 19 mm South Sea cultured pearl, white diamonds

Ref. ABQ96WB – CHF 15,500.–

Prato Fiorito Collection

18K white gold ring set with white diamonds Ref. 12839B – CHF 9,340.–

18K white gold earrings set with white diamonds Ref. 12821B – CHF 14,400.–

18K white gold necklace set with white diamonds Ref. 12813B – CHF 7,750.–

18K white gold bracelet set with white diamonds Ref. 12817B – CHF 12,650.–

18K yellow and gold “Lotus” earrings with moonstones Ref. OL01-A2658-405 – CHF 3,150.–

18K yellow and pink gold necklace Ref. OL02-C2009-401 – CHF 2,650.–

18K yellow gold Leaf Ref. OL02-A2614-401 – CHF 4,350.–

18K yellow and pink gold “Lotus” pendant with moonstone and diamonds Ref. OL09-A2655-404 – CHF 4,250.–

18K yellow and pink gold “Lotus” pendant with moonstone and diamonds Ref. OL09-A2654-404 – CHF 1,550.–

18K yellow and pink gold “Sweet Spot” pendant with smoky quartz and diamonds Ref. OL09-A2700-506 – CHF 3,750.–

Two 18K yellow gold “Dew Drops” pendants with moonstones and diamonds Ref. OL09A2635-403 – CHF 2,200.– Ref. OL09A2635-401 – CHF 2,200.–

18K yellow and pink gold “Love Bracelet” Ref. OL04-A1731-401 – CHF 6,850.–

“Silky” bracelet in beige-toned silk Ref. OL04-A2540-002 – CHF 225.–

“Silky” bracelet in champagne-toned silk Ref. OL04-A2539-001 – CHF 225.–

18K yellow and pink gold “Lotus” ring with dark grey moonstone Ref. OL03-A2650-404 – CHF 2,450.–

18K yellow and pink gold “Lotus” ring with white moonstone Ref. OL03-A2651-406 – CHF 3,550.–

18K yellow and pink gold “Lotus” ring with white moonstone and diamonds Ref. OL03-A2652-406 – CHF 5,250.–

Tango Collection

18K pink gold earrings set with brown diamonds Ref. OB306BR071 – CHF 14,475.–

18K pink gold ring with smoky quartz, set with brown diamonds Ref. AB110BRO7QF – CHF 12,125.–

18K pink gold ring set with brown diamonds Ref. AB306BRO7A – CHF 22,000.–

Sabbia Collection

18K pink gold necklace, 62 cm long Ref. CB209WO762 – CHF 20,595.–

Purple Collection

18K white gold “Purple Wings” ring with enamel and white diamonds

Ref. 6.7073 – CHF 15,460.–

18K white gold “Magic Purple” earrings with enamel and white diamonds

Ref. 8.8653 – CHF 34,900.–

18K white gold “Brilliance of the Sun Variété” necklace featuring the letter W set

with a white diamond Ref. 4.6728 – CHF 19,800.–

18K white gold “Magic Purple” amulet with enamel and white diamonds

Ref. 9.9495 – CHF 25,300.–

18K white gold “Purple Kiss” ring with enamel and white diamonds

Ref. 6.7075 – CHF 14,000.–

+

+

+

=23 WATCHES

TRY OUR NEW WATCHFINDER ONW W W. L E S A M BA S S A D E U R S .C H

A N D O N TA B L E T S (AvAIlAblE FOR IOS & ANDROID)

W

C

S

O

A

H

&

R

T

E

M

E

Texts: Soraia Glarner

A.Lange & SöhneAudemars PiguetBell & RossBlancpainBovetBreguetBreitlingCartierChanelFranck MullerGirard-PerregauxGreubel ForseyHarry WinstonJaeger-LeCoultreJaermann & StübiJaquet DrozLonginesPaneraiRoger DubuisUlysse NardinUrwerkVacheron ConstantinVulcainBuben & ZörwegVertu

All prices indicated

are subject to change.

WATCHESPage 78  |  L.A 13 

Ref. 117.028

Grand LanGe 1Movement mechanical hand-wound,

Manufacture Calibre L095.1. Power reserve: 72 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds, large date. Power-reserve indication.

Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 40.90 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back.

Dial solid silver, black.Strap hand-sewn crocodile leather.Price CHF 38,700.–

Ref. 330.025

Saxonia annuaL CaLendarMovement mechanical self-winding,

Manufacture Calibre L085.1 SAX-0-MAT. Power reserve: 46 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds and zero-reset function. Annual calendar with large date, day of the week, month and moon phases.

Case platinum. Diameter: 38.50 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back.

Dial solid silver, rhodium-coated.Strap hand-sewn crocodile leather.Price CHF 56,500.–

Ref. 421.032

1815 rattrapante perpetuaL CaLendarMovement mechanical hand-wound,

Manufacture Calibre L101.1. Power reserve: 42 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds. Split-second chronograph with sweep-seconds hand along with 30-minute counter. Perpetual calendar indicating the date, day of the week, month, moon phases and leap years. Power-reserve indication.

Case 18K pink gold. Diameter: 41.90 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back.

Dial solid silver.Strap hand-sewn crocodile leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 186,000.–

WATCHESPage 80  |  L.A 13 

Ref. 26402CE.OO.A002CA.01

royaL oak offShore ChronoGraph 44 mmMovement mechanical self-winding,

Manufacture Calibre 3126/3840. Power reserve: 55 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Chronograph with sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters.

Case ceramic. Diameter: 44 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial black with “Méga Tapisserie” motif.Strap rubber.Price CHF 36,700.–

Ref. 15451ST.ZZ.1256ST.01

SeLfwindinG royaL oakMovement mechanical self-winding,

Manufacture Calibre 3120. Power reserve: 60 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date.Case steel. Diameter: 37 mm.

Glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 50 m.

Dial black with “Grande Tapisserie” motif.Bracelet steel with folding clasp.Price CHF 22,700.–

Ref. 15335OR.OO.A092CR.01

extra-thin tradition Movement mechanical self-winding,

Manufacture Calibre 2120. Power reserve: 40 hours.

Functions hours, minutes.Case 18K pink gold. Diameter: 41 mm.

Glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back.Water-resistant to 20 m.

Dial satin-brushed silver-toned.Strap hand-sewn crocodile leather.Price CHF 30,500.–

WATCHESPage 82  |  L.A 13 

Ref. BRV123-ST-HER / SRB

Br123 Sport heritaGe automatiCMovement mechanical self-winding, ETA Calibre 2892.Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date. Case polished steel. Diameter: 41 mm. Fixed bezel

with 60-minute graduation. Glareproofed ultra-domed sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial black with photoluminescent sand-toned numerals, hour-markers and hands.

Strap rubber.Price CHF 2,600.–

Ref. BRV126-FLY-BB

Br126 BLaCkBird automatiCMovement mechanical self-winding, Dubois Depraz.Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date.

Flyback chronograph with sweep-seconds hand, 12-hour counter. 24-hour counter for AM/PM indication. Tachymetric scale.

Case steel with black PVD finish. Diameter: 43 mm. Glareproofed ultra-domed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial black with photoluminescent numerals, hour-markers and hands.

Strap rubber.Price CHF 5,900.–

Limited edition of 500.

Ref. BR0197-Climb

Br01-97 CLimBMovement mechanical self-winding, ETA Calibre 2897. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date.

Yellow power-reserve indication at 9 o’clock.Case steel with black PVD finish. Diameter: 46 mm.

Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial black.Strap rubber.Price CHF 4,800.–

Ref. 6639-3642-55B

ViLLeret Quantième CompLet 8 daySMovement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 6639. Secure calendar

and moon-phase mechanism. Power reserve: 8 days. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Complete calendar indicating

the date, day, month, phases and age of the moon.Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 42 mm. Sapphire crystal

and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar.Dial opaline.Strap alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 36,900.–

Ref. R10-1103-53B

L-eVoLution r LarGe dateMovement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 6950.

Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Large date.Case satin-brushed steel. Diameter: 43.50 mm.

Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 10 bar.Dial carbon fibre.Strap alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 12,600.–

Ref. 3626-4544L-64A

women ChronoGraphe fLyBaCk Grande dateMovement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 26F8G.

Power reserve: 40 hours.Functions offset hours and minutes. Large date.

Flyback chronograph with sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters.

Case steel set with diamonds. Diameter: 38.60 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial mother-of-pearl.Strap satin-textured rubber.Price CHF 20,500.–

Total carat weight: 0.84 cts.

WATCHES  L.A 13  |  Page 85

Ref. AIVI004

amadeo ® VirtuoSoMovement mechanical hand-wound,

Calibre 16BM02AI-HSMR. Power reserve: 5 days. Functions jumping hours, retrograde minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,

power-reserve indication, reversed hand-fitting.Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 44 mm. Convertible

into a wristwatch, a pocket-watch, a table clock and reversible (AMADEO ® system). Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Strap alligator leather.Price CHF 248,400.–

Delivered with an 18K white gold chain.Limited edition of 50.

Ref. TPINT001

amadeo ® ottantatreMovement mechanical hand-wound,

Calibre 16BM3AI-HSMR. Power reserve: 5 days.Functions jumping hours, retrograde minutes, seconds on the tourbillon,

power-reserve indication, reversed hand-fitting.Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 44 mm. Convertible

into a wristwatch, a pocket-watch, a table clock and reversible (AMADEO ® system). Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Strap rubber.Price CHF 216,000.–

Delivered with an 18K red gold chain.Limited edition of 83.

Ref. H32RA070-SD123

Château de môtierS 32Movement mechanical self-winding,

Calibre 11BA15. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds.Case Château de Môtiers in 18K red gold. Diameter: 32 mm.

Bezel, bow and lugs set with diamonds. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial guilloché white mother-of-pearl with diamond hour-markers.Strap alligator leather.Price CHF 28,100.–

Total carat weight: 0.50 cts.

WATCHES  L.A 13  |  Page 87

WATCHESPage 88  |  L.A 13 

Ref. 5287BB / 92 / 9ZU

CLaSSiQue ChronoGrapheMovement mechanical hand-wound, Breguet Calibre 533.3.

Power reserve: 48 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Small seconds at 9 o’clock.

Chronograph with sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter. Tachymetric scale.

Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 42.50 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial hand-guilloché black 18K gold dial featuring four different motifs. Individual numbering.

Strap leather with triple folding clasp.Price CHF 49,000.–

Ref. 8967ST / 51 / 986

reine de napLeSMovement mechanical self-winding, Breguet Calibre 591C.

Power reserve: 38 hours. Functions hours, minutes.Case steel. Dimensions: 43 x 34.95 mm.

Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial natural white mother-of-pearl.

Individual numbering.Strap blue leather.Price CHF 15,100.–

Ref. 7727BB / 12 / 9WU

CLaSSiQue ChronométrieMovement mechanical hand-wound with stop seconds,

Breguet Calibre 574DR. Power reserve: 60 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Small seconds at 12 o’clock and

10ths of a second at 1 o’clock. Power-reserve indication.Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 41 mm. Sapphire crystal

and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial hand-guilloché silver-toned 18K gold dial featuring

six different motifs. Individual numbering. Strap leather with triple folding clasp.Price CHF 39,500.–

Ref. A1337111 / BC29

Super aVenGer iiMovement mechanical self-winding,

Breitling Caliber 13. COSC-certified chronometer. Functions hours, minutes, date. ¼ th of a second

chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers.Case steel. Diameter: 48 mm. Ratcheted unidirectional bezel.

Sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 300 m.

Dial Volcano Black.Bracelet Professional III.Price CHF 5,400.–

Ref. MB0510U6 / BC80

tranSoCean unitime piLot BLaCkSteeLMovement mechanical self-winding, Manufacture

Breitling Caliber 05. COSC-certified chronometer. Power reserve: 70 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Worldtimer function. Simultaneous readings of all 24 timezones. ¼ th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers.

Case Blacksteel (Pilot). Diameter: 46 mm. Convex sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial black.Bracelet Blacksteel Ocean Classic.Price CHF 12,090.–

Ref. AB045112 / G772

tranSoCean ChronoGraph GmtMovement mechanical self-winding, Manufacture

Breitling Caliber 04. COSC-certified chronometer. Power reserve: 70 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. 2nd timezone in 24-hour mode. ¼ th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers.

Case steel. Diameter: 43 mm. Convex sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial Mercury Silver.Strap alligator leather.Price CHF 8,455.–

Limited edition of 2,000.

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 91

Ref. W1580049

tortue xxL watCh, muLtipLe time zoneSMovement mechanical self-winding, Manufacture Calibre 9914 MC.

Power reserve: 48 hours. Individual numbering.Functions hours, minutes. Multiple time-zone complication with

home-time indication by a 24-hour hand, lateral city disc and mechanism taking account of summer (DST) time and winter time. Day/night indication.

Case 18K pink gold. Dimensions: 51 x 45.60 mm. 18K pink gold octagonal crown adorned with a facetted sapphire. Mineral glass and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial galvanic guilloché, openworked silver-toned grid with sunburst effect.

Strap alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 39,200.–

Ref. W1556224

rotonde de Cartier myStery watChMovement mechanical hand-wound, Manufacture Calibre 9981 MC.

Power reserve: 48 hours. Individual numbering.Functions hours, minutes with mysterious display. Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 42 mm. 18K white gold beaded

crown adorned with a cabochon-cut sapphire. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial galvanic guilloché, openworked silver-toned grid with sunburst effect.

Strap alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 57,000.–

Ref. WB710008

tank amériCaine watCh, SmaLL modeLMovement quartz, Calibre Cartier 157.Functions hours, minutes. Case 18K pink gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

Dimensions: 19 x 34.80 mm. Octagonal crown in 18K pink gold set with a brilliant-cut diamond. Mineral glass. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial flinqué silver-toned.Bracelet 18K pink gold.Price CHF 35,700.–

Total carat weight: 0.97 cts.

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 93

Ref. H3259

premièreMovement high-precision quartz.Functions hours, minutes.Case 18K yellow gold set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Dimensions: 20 x 28 mm. Crown adorned with a cabochon-cut onyx. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial black lacquered.Bracelet 18K yellow gold chain and clasp.Price CHF 24,600.–

Total carat weight: 0.43 cts.

Ref. H3406

J12 moonphaSeMovement mechanical self-winding.

Power reserve: 42 hours.Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date. Moon phases.Case black high-tech ceramic*. Diameter: 38 mm.

Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 100 m. Dial satin-brushed black with aventurine subdial.Bracelet black high-tech ceramic* with steel triple folding clasp.Price CHF 7,800.–

* Highly scratch-resistant material

Ref. H3410

J12 SuperLeGGeraMovement mechanical self-winding.

COSC-certified chronometer. Power reserve: 42 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Chronograph with sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter and tachymetric scale.

Case white high-tech ceramic*. Diameter: 41 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 200 m.

Dial opaline.Bracelet white high-tech ceramic* with steel triple folding clasp.Price CHF 7,800.–

* Highly scratch-resistant material

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 95

Ref. 10900 SC DT GPG TITAN NR TITAN

ConQuiStador CortezMovement mechanical self-winding,

Calibre FM 0800. Power reserve: 36 hours.Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date.Case titanium. Dimensions: 41 x 41 mm.

Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial black.Strap rubber with folding clasp.Price CHF 11,300.–

Ref. 6850 B SC DT VA AC

CurVex automatiCMovement mechanical self-winding,

Calibre FM 0800. Power reserve: 36 hours.Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date.Case steel, cintrée Curvex. Dimensions: 47 x 34 mm.

Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial translucent lacquered white with stamped sunburst effect.

Strap hand-sewn alligator leather.Price CHF 10,300.–

Ref. 7500 SC AT FO

Lady automatiCMovement mechanical self-winding,

Calibre 2671. Power reserve: 36 hours.Functions hours, minutes, seconds.Case 18K pink gold, cintrée Curvex.

Dimensions: 39 x 29 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial translucent lacquered white with stamped sunburst effect.

Strap hand-sewn alligator leather.Price CHF 13,200.–

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 97

WATCHESPage 98  |  L.A 13 

Ref. 49700-11-133-BB6B

Girard-perreGaux traVeLLer ww.tCMovement mechanical self-winding, Girard-Perregaux

Calibre GP03300-0084. Power reserve: 46 hours.Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Date at 2 hours.

Chronograph with sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter. World time with day/night indication.

Case steel. Diameter: 44 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial opaline.Strap alligator leather-coated rubber with folding clasp.Price CHF 16,200.–

Ref. 49525D52ABD1-BKEA

Girard-perreGaux 1966 Lady 38 mmMovement mechanical self-winding, Girard-Perregaux

Calibre GP03300-0066. Power reserve: 46 hours.Functions hours, minutes.Case 18K pink gold with diamond-set bezel.

Diameter: 38 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial sunburst brushed, track set with 47 diamonds.Strap alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 25,900.–

Total carat weight: 1 ct.

Ref. 93500-53-131-BA6C

Girard-perreGaux ConStant eSCapementMovement mechanical hand-wound, Girard-Perregaux

Calibre MVT-009100-007. Power reserve: 7 days.Functions hours, minutes, seconds.

Linear power-reserve indication.Case polished 18K white gold.

Diameter: 48 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial grained silver-toned.Strap alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 124,200.–

Ref. 9100 1539

douBLe tourBiLLon aSymétriQueMovement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre GF02A2.

Double Tourbillon 30o. Power reserve: 72 hours.Functions hours, minutes, small seconds.

Sectorial power-reserve on a disc. Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 43.50 mm.

Convex synthetic asymmetrical sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Individual numbering. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial oxidised 18K black gold.Strap hand-sewn alligator leather with

Greubel Forsey folding clasp.Price CHF 529,200.–

Limited edition of 11.

Ref. 9100 1776

Gmt Movement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre GF05.

Tourbillon 24 Secondes inclined at 250. Power reserve: 72 hours.Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Dual time-zone,

world-time indication by rotation of the titanium globe, and power-reserve displayed on a sector. World-time and summer-time disc on the case-back.

Case 18K 5N red gold. Diameter: 43.50 mm. Convex synthetic sapphire crystal and case-back. Individual numbering. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial 18K white gold, anthracite.Strap hand-sewn alligator leather with

Greubel Forsey folding clasp.Price CHF 567,000.–

Ref. 9100 2926

douBLe tourBiLLon teChniQue BLaCk Movement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre GF02s.

Double Tourbillon 30o. Power reserve: 5 days.Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Outer tourbillon 4-minute

rotating indication. Inner tourbillon 60-second rotation. Power reserve displayed on a sector.

Case titanium with black ADLC finish. Diameter: 47.50 mm. Convex synthetic sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Individual numbering. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Strap hand-sewn rubber with Greubel Forsey folding clasp.Price CHF 529,200.–

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 101

Ref. OCEACT44RR023

oCean tripLe retroGrade ChronoGraphMovement mechanical self-winding. Power reserve: 40 hours. Functions hours, minutes.

Chronograph with retrograde 12-hour, 30-minute and 60-second counters. Power indicator (Shuriken).

Case 18K pink gold. Diameter: 44 mm. Sapphire crystal and open sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial opaline black.Strap rubber with folding clasp.Price CHF 47,600.–

Ref. PRNATZ41RR002

premier exCenter time zone automatiCMovement mechanical self-winding. Power reserve: 45 hours. Functions excentered hours and minutes.

Large date. Retrograde dual-time display. Day/night indicator.

Case 18K pink gold. Diameter: 41 mm. Sapphire crystal and open sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial anthracite.Strap alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 41,000.–

Ref. MIDQHM39RR004

harry winSton midniGht monoChromeMovement quartz.Functions hours, minutes.Case diamond-set 18K pink gold. Diameter: 39 mm.

Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m.Dial metallic silver slate impression, with 4 diamond-set

hour markers. Stamped “Harry Winston” logo.Strap satin.Price CHF 21,000.–

Total carat weight: 0.95 cts.

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 103

Ref. 3483590

rendez-VouS CeLeStiaLMovement mechanical self-winding, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 809.

Power reserve: 40 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Sky chart, celestial vault disc

with zodiac indication. Shooting star indication of a personal rendezvous.

Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 37.50 mm. Bezel, lugs and crown set with diamonds. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 5 bar.

Dial guilloché diamond-set lapis-lazuli.Strap alligator leather with diamond-set buckle.Price CHF 56,000.–

Total carat weight: 2.09 cts.

Ref. 1302520

maSter uLtra thin perpetuaLMovement mechanical self-winding, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868.

Power reserve: 38 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Perpetual calendar

indicating the date, day, month year, phases and age of the moon.

Case 18K pink gold. Diameter: 39 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 5 bar.

Dial eggshell white.Strap alligator leather.Price CHF 28,700.–

Ref. 1296520

maSter uLtra thin JuBiLeeMovement mechanical hand-wound, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 849.

Power reserve: 35 hours. Functions hours, minutes.Case extra-white platinum. Diameter: 39 mm.

Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 5 bar.Dial grained silver-toned.Strap alligator leather.Price CHF 16,200.–

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 105

Ref. H06

hoLe in oneMovement mechanical self-winding, Calibre A10.

Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. JS02 mechanical golf counter.

Retrograde display of the holes played. Indication of number of strokes per hole, of the total number of strokes and a handicap comparison.

Case steel with black PVD finish and integrated shock-absorber. Diameter: 44 mm. 18K pink gold rotating bezel. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial engraved with guilloché motif.Strap rubber.Price CHF 11,800.–

Ref. TA2

tranS atLantiC Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre A10.

Chronometer-certified by the COSC. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. JS02 mechanical golf counter.

Retrograde display of the holes played. Indication of number of strokes per hole, of the total number of strokes and a handicap comparison. Metre – yard conversion.

Case steel with integrated shock-absorber. Diameter: 44 mm. Rotating bezel. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial engraved with guilloché motif.Strap rubber with folding clasp.Price CHF 8,000.–

Ref. QG2

Queen of GoLf Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre A10.

Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. JS04 mechanical gold counter.

Indication of number of strokes per hole and of the total number of strokes.

Case steel with integrated shock-absorber. Diameter: 38 mm. Diamond-set bezel. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 50 m.

Dial white mother-of-pearl.Strap calfskin, damp-absorbent lining.Price CHF 8,900.–

Total carat weight: 0.60 cts.

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 107

WATCHESPage 108  |  L.A 13 

Ref. J015233200

Grande heure GmtMovement mechanical self-winding,

Jaquet Droz Calibre 5N50.4. Power reserve: 68 hours.Functions central 1st and 2nd time-zone indications.Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 43 mm. Sapphire crystal

and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Individual numbering.

Dial Grand Feu ivory-toned enamel.Strap hand rolled-edge alligator leather.Price CHF 27,150.–

Ref. J013033200

tourBiLLon iVory enameLMovement mechanical self-winding,

Jaquet Droz Calibre 25JD. Power reserve: 7 days.Functions hours and minutes. Small seconds on

tourbillon carriage at 12 o’clock.Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 43 mm. Sapphire crystal

and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Individual numbering.

Dial Grand Feu ivory-toned enamel.Strap hand rolled-edge alligator leather

with folding clasp.Price CHF 99,900.–

Ref. J007030246

Grande SeConde QuantièmeMovement mechanical self-winding,

Jaquet Droz Calibre 2660Q2. Power reserve: 68 hours.Functions offset hours and minutes. Large seconds.

Pointer-type date indication at 6 o’clock.Case steel. Diameter: 43 mm. Sapphire crystal and

case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Individual numbering.

Dial brown.Strap hand rolled-edge alligator leather

with folding clasp.Price CHF 9,650.–

Ref. L2.792.4.71.0

the LonGineS heritaGe 1968 Movement mechanical self-winding,

Calibre L619. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date.Case steel. Dimensions: 33 x 33 mm.

Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial silver-toned.Strap alligator leather.Price CHF 1,950.–

Ref. L2.831.4.53.2

the LonGineS aViGationMovement mechanical self-winding,

Calibre L704. Power reserve: 46 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date.

2nd time zone.Case steel. Diameter: 44 mm.

Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial black.Strap alligator leather.Price CHF 2,100.–

Ref. L2.257.4.77.6

the LonGineS maSter CoLLeCtionMovement mechanical self-winding,

Calibre L595. Power reserve: 40 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date.Case steel. Diameter: 29 mm.

Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial silver-toned with diamond hour-markers.Bracelet steel.Price CHF 2,080.–

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 111

WATCHES Page 112  |  L.A 13 

Ref. PAM00514

radiomir 1940 3 dayS – 47 mmMovement mechanical hand-wound,

Panerai Calibre P.3000. Power reserve: 72 hours.Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date.Case polished steel. Diameter: 47 mm.

Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 10 bar.

Dial black with luminescent hour-markers,Arabic numerals and hands.

Strap rubber with Panerai buckle.Price CHF 7,500.–

Ref. PAM00524

Luminor 1950 3 dayS Chrono fLyBaCk – 44 mmMovement mechanical self-winding,

Panerai Calibre P.9100. Power reserve: 72 hours.Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date.

Flyback chronograph with central sweep-seconds hand. Seconds reset.

Case steel. Diameter: 44 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 10 bar.

Dial black with luminescent hour-markers, Arabic numerals and hands.

Strap rubber with Panerai buckle.Price CHF 11,100.–

Ref. PAM00446

poCket watCh tourBiLLon Gmt CeramiCa – 59 mmMovement mechanical hand-wound,

Panerai Calibre P.2005/S. Power reserve: 6 days.Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. 2nd time zone.

24-hour indicator. Power-reserve indication on the case-back. Tourbillon.

Case black ceramic. Diameter: 59 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Chain ceramic.Price CHF 190,700.–

WATCHESPage 114  |  L.A 13 

Ref. RDDBEX0390

exCaLiBur 42 ChronoGraphMovement mechanical self-winding, Calibre RD681,

Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark . Power reserve: 52 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Double-pusher chronograph with column-wheel, central sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter.

Case 18K pink gold. Diameter: 42 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back.Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial sunburst brushed ivory-toned.Strap hand-sewn alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 41,900.–

Ref. RDDBVE0005

VeLVet amethyStS and SpineLSMovement mechanical self-winding, Calibre RD821,

Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Power reserve: 48 hours.

Functions hours, minutes.Case titanium with DLC finish. Bezel set with amethysts,

lugs and décor set with spinels. Diameter: 36 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back.Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial black.Strap satin-finish fabric with folding clasp.Price CHF 37,800.–

Total carat weight: 1.24 cts.Limited edition of 188.

Ref. RDDBEX0392

exCaLiBur 42 SkeLeton tourBiLLonMovement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre RD505SQ,

Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Power reserve: 60 hours.

Functions hours, minutes. Flying tourbillon.Case 18K pink gold. Diameter: 42 mm.

Glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back.Water-resistant to 3 bar.

Dial openworked.Strap hand-sewn alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 149,000.–

WATCHESPage 116  |  L.A 13 

Ref. 6902-125

StranGerMovement mechanical self-winding, Calibre UN-690.

Power reserve: 48 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date.

“Strangers in the Night” tune played with hour repeater or on demand.

Case 18K pink gold. Diameter: 45 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial silver-toned.Strap leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 105,000.–

Limited edition of 99.

Ref. 3106-125BC / 991

JadeMovement mechanical self-winding, Calibre UN-310.

Power reserve: 48 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date.Case 18K pink gold with diamond-set bezel.

Dimensions: 36 x 39 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial white mother-of-pearl with diamond hour-markers.Strap leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 35,800.–

Total carat weight: 1.73 cts.

Ref. 2056-131

freak CruiSerMovement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre UN-205.

Power reserve: 7 days. Functions hours, minutes indicated by the rotation

of the Tourbillon Carrousel movement.Case 18K pink gold. Diameter: 45 mm.

Knurled rotating bezel serving to set the time. Manual winding via the case-back. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back.

Strap leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 80,000.–

WATCHESPage 118  |  L.A 13 

Ref. UR-110

ur-110 pthMovement mechanical self-winding, regulated by turbines,

Calibre UR-9.01. Power reserve: 39 hours.Functions satellite complication with mobile hour modules

on planetary gears, minutes. Control board with day/night and “Oil Change” indications, and a 60-second counter.

Case titanium with platinum bezel. Dimensions: 47 x 51 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial black.Strap leather.Price CHF 124,200.–

Limited edition of 20.

Ref. UR-110

ur-110 rGMovement mechanical self-winding, regulated by turbines,

Calibre UR-9.01. Power reserve: 39 hours.Functions satellite complication with mobile hour modules

on planetary gears, minutes. Control board with day/night and “Oil Change” indications, and a 60-second counter.

Case titanium with 18K red gold bezel. Dimensions: 47 x 51 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m.

Dial black.Strap leather.Price CHF 104,760.–

Limited edition of 55.

Ref. EMC

emCMovement Manufacture mechanical hand-wound

Calibre UR-EMC. Power reserve: 80 hoursFunctions hours, minutes, small seconds. Control board

with δ precision indicator and power-reserve indicator. Fine-adjustment screw for regulating the movement.

Case titanium and steel. Dimensions: 43 x 51 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial anthracite.Strap leather.Price CHF 116,640.–

Limited edition of 55.

Ref. 82028 / 000R-9708

patrimony Contemporaine poCket watChMovement mechanical hand-wound, Manufacture

Calibre 4400, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Power reserve: 65 hours.

Functions hours, minutes.Case 18K 5N pink gold. Diameter: 43 mm.

Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar.Dial opaline silver-toned with beaded minute circle.Cord-strap brown leather.Price CHF 43,500.–

Ref. 86300 / 000R-9826

hiStoriQueS toLedo 1951Movement mechanical self-winding, Manufacture

Calibre 2460 SC, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Power reserve: 40 hours.

Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Case 18K 5N pink gold. Dimensions: 36.50 x 43.10 mm.

Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar.Dial hand-guilloché silver-toned.Strap hand-sewn alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 37,100.–

Ref. 47660 / 000G-9829

oVerSeaS Lady date automatiCMovement mechanical self-winding Manufacture

Calibre 1226. Power reserve: 40 hours.Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date.Case diamond-set 18K white gold. Diameter: 36 mm.

Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 5 bar.Dial satin-brushed black with diamond hour-markers.Strap alligator leather with folding clasp.Price CHF 55,100.–

Total carat weight: 2.59 cts.

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 121

Ref. 580158.327L

50s preSidentS’ moonphaSeMovement mechanical self-winding,

Vulcain Calibre V-58. Power reserve: 42 hours.Functions hours, minute, seconds. Complete calendar

indicating the date, day, month, moon phases.Case steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Glareproofed

cambered sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 50 m.

Dial sunburst silver-toned.Strap alligator leather.Price CHF 5,280.–

Ref. 100152.024LDLC

nautiCaL dLCMovement mechanical hand-wound, Vulcain Cricket

alarm Calibre V-10. Power reserve: 42 hours.Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Alarm.

Indication of diving decompression tables. Case steel with DLC finish. Diameter: 42 mm.

Hesalite glass. Triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber and enabling underwater use of the alarm function. Water-resistant to 300 m.

Dial black.Strap rubberised leather.Price CHF 5,490.–

Limited edition of 100.

Ref. 100108.332LDLC

aViator Gmt piLot dLCMovement mechanical hand-wound, Vulcain Cricket

alarm Calibre V-10. Power reserve: 42 hours.Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date, alarm. World time.

Simultaneous reading of all 24 time zones.Case satin-brushed steel with DLC finish.

Diameter: 42 mm. Glareproofed cambered sapphire crystal. Triple case-back serving as a resonance chamber. Water-resistant to 100 m.

Dial matt black.Strap alligator leather.Price CHF 5,490.–

Limited edition of 250.

WATCHES   L.A 13  |  Page 123

miraGe· 22 TIME MOVER® (8 of them in the safe)· BUBEN&ZÖRWEG Safe SI-80 with Safety Class VdS I (German Security Certification)· BUBEN&ZÖRWEG signature clock with a stainless steel bezel· Storage drawer (Gentleman Insert)· Interior in finest velour· Viewing window made of two way mirror spy glass· State-of-the-art LED lighting technology with fading function· Integrated thermometer and hygrometer displays· Swiss security lock· Height-adjustable stainless steel feet on a pedestal· Optional German HiFi system with Bluetooth and iPhone/iPod docking station · Finest German craftsmanship· Dimensions: 1540 x 560 x 540 mm· Mains Operation· Price: CHF 82,700.–

Grand CoLLeCtor· 35 TIME MOVER® (8 of them in the safe)· BUBEN&ZÖRWEG Safe SI-60 with Safety Class VdS I

(German Security Certification)· BUBEN&ZÖRWEG signature clock with a stainless steel bezel· 2 storage drawers (Gentleman insert and watch insert)· State-of-the-art LED lighting technology with fading function· Stainless steel portholes· Swiss security lock· Height-adjustable stainless steel feet· Optional German HiFi system with Bluetooth and iPhone/iPod docking station · Finest German craftsmanship· Dimensions: 1810 x 550 x 505 mm· Price: CHF 69,300.–

CoLLeCtor Safe· 16 TIME MOVER® and 3 drawers· BUBEN&ZÖRWEG Safe SI-80 with Safety Class VdS I

(German Security Certification)· Hand-crafted housing, piano finish with precious wood inlay, high gloss· 1 storage drawer (Gentleman insert)· Hand-stitched Italian nappa leather· Interior in finest velour, black· Swiss security lock· State-of-the-art LED lighting with fading technology· Height-adjustable stainless steel feet· Finest German craftsmanship· Dimensions: 1235 x 550 x 505 mm· Mains Operation· Price: CHF 37,800.–

   |  L.A 13  |  Page 125... & MORE

Signature ClouS de PariS BlaCk PVd / CHF 17,400.–

PHYSICAL SPECIFICATION· Length: 130 mm. Width: 42 mm. Depth: 13 mm.· Weight: 116g to 238g

PIONEERING DESIGN · Polished/Brushed finish black PVD stainless steel· Clous de Paris finish key towers, side cheeks and back· Black ceramic pillow with silver V logo· Polished black sapphire crystal keys with silver graphics· Precision-engineered key switches with jewelled bearings· Black fine mill leather Black· High-resolution display with sapphire crystal· High-fidelity 11 mm x 15 mm loudspeaker with dual sounds ports · Exclusive ring tones and alerts played by the London Symphony Orchestra

TECHNOLOGY· Up to 5.5 hours GSM talk time· Up to 3.0 hours WCDMA talk time· Up to 300 hours standby time· 3G and Quadband GSM coverage worldwide*· Bluetooth· Micro USB· WLAN*· PC and Mac synchronization· Modem support· MMS/SMS· Accurate, auto dual-time clock· 4GB user memory· WorldMate travel application· Web browser

EXCLUSIVE SERVICES· Vertu Concierge· Vertu Select· Vertu City Brief· Vertu Certainty

* Some features are location, network and/or service dependent

ConStellationorange / CHF 5,700.–MoCha / CHF 5,700.–

PHYSICAL SPECIFICATION· Length: 142.2 mm. Width: 70.4 mm. Depth: 11.2 mm· Weight: 179g

PIONEERING DESIGN · 4,3” nHD high contrast AMOLED display,

protected by Sapphire Crystal · High-fidelity 11 mm x 15 mm loudspeaker · Exclusive ring tones and alerts played

by theLondon Symphony Orchestra

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION· Operating System Android™ 4.2 (Jelly Bean)

TECHNOLOGY · Talk time: Up to 14 hrs 30 mins (WCDMA) *· Stand-by: Up to 405 hrs · Qualcomm® Snapdragon™· Dual-core 1.7 GHz processor· 4.3” 720p, brilliant, high contrast display,

protected by sapphire crystal· 13MP main camera with AF and twin LED flash· 1.3MP Skype™ compliant front camera· 32GB of internal memory· High-fidelity 11 mm x 15 mm loudspeaker

with Dolby® DS1 support· Quadband GSM 850/900/1800/1900 MHz· WCDMA Bands I, II, IV, V, VIII· HSPA+, Cat24, 42Mb/s Downlink,

Cat6 5.76Mb/s Uplink· WLAN 802.11 a,b,g, n, inc. WAPI for PRC **· Micro USB system connector· 3.5 mm audio socket· Bluetooth® v4.0 + LE· CSR aptX® support· NFC + support for embedded and SIM

based secure elements· Wi-Fi hotspot (tethering & portable hotspot)· A-GPS + Compass· Gyro and accelerometer for orientation and game play· Battery Internal 1800 mAh Li-ion

EXCLUSIVE SERVICES· Vertu Live· Vertu Select· Vertu City Brief· Vertu Certainty

* Power management figures based on GSMA-DG09 standards** Some features are location, network and/or service dependent

   |  L.A 13  |  Page 127... & MORE

NextThe next L.A Magazine will be published in June 2014 and will continue celebrating the 50th anniversary of Les Ambassadeurs. Have it delivered directly to your door by using the form below, or check out the online version at www.lesambassadeurs.ch

[ ] Mr [ ] Mrs [ ] MissAge [ ] 25-35 [ ] 36-45 [ ] 46-55 [ ] 56-65 [ ] 66 and overDate of birth (optional):Marital status:First name: Family name:Address:Postal code: City:[ ] Switzerland [ ] Liechtenstein Type of address [ ] professional [ ] privateE-mail:Professional activity:Watch or jewellery brands owned:I am already a customer of Les Ambassadeurs [ ] yes [ ] noI would like to receive L.A Magazine in [ ] french [ ] italian [ ] russian [ ] english [ ] german [ ] chineseI discovered L.A Magazine in a [ ] boutique [ ] beauty salon [ ] restaurant [ ] medical establishment [ ] hotel [ ] private company [ ] other (please specify):Please send to: Les Ambassadeurs – Marketing & Communication – Bahnhofstrasse 64 – 8001 Zurich – fax: +41 44 227 17 27 – magazine@lesambassadeurs.ch

All prices shown may be subject to change. The illustrations have been enlarged for enhanced clarity.

C R E D I T S

L.A Magazine The twice-yearly magazine for clients of Les Ambassadeurs.A Swiss magazine published by Les Ambassadeurs with a 80,000 copy run in German, English, French, Italian, Russian and Chinese.

Publisher Les Ambassadeurs AGProject director Philippe Meyer (p.meyer@lesambassadeurs.ch)

Editorial & production management Opus Magnum Sàrl (www.opusmagnum.ch)

Copy editing Soraia Glarner (sg@opusmagnum.ch)

Contributors (By order of appearance) Joachim Ziegler,Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon,Keith Strandberg,David Chokron,Serge Panczuk,Vincent Daveau,Olivier Müller,Gaëlle Sinnassamy-Chaar,Marco Cattaneo,Vesna Mitrovic,Mathilde Binetruy,Soraia GlarnerPhotographer Richard Frémont50th Anniversary portfolio Public History Research,Zürich (www.publichistory.ch)

Design Mélanie & Nicolas Zentner, Lausanne (www.enzed.ch)

Translation Susan Jacquet (English), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (German), Silvano Daniele (Italian), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (Russian), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (Chinese)

Proofreading Christiane Lalieu (French), Transcribe (English), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (German), Gabriella Daniele (Italian), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (Russian), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (Chinese)

Photolithography Images 3, Lausanne

Printing DaneelsCopyright © 2013 Les Ambassadeurs AG. All rights reserved.All published texts and visuals are subject to copyright.Any reproduction, whether in whole or in part, is strictly forbidden without prior written consent by the respective copyright holders.This magazine was entirely printed using solar energy.

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