2020KSPEARL New Products

&KOREA New Innovative Cosmetics

2020

KSPEARL New Products

■ High Purity & Child labor Free: HP Iron Oxide Yellow/Red/Black 3AS

Sericite L AS / Mica G AS / Mica H ASSyn-Mica M/HP1/HP2/HP3

■ Eco-Friendly Sunscreen & Silica: M-ZnO P AS / Zinc Oxide ASMT-012 SA / Micro TiO2 060 ASSoft Silica

■ Silicon Free Cosmetics: TiO2 CR-50 ST

HP Iron Oxide Yellow/Red/Black 3AS

■ Innovative Powders: Silky Black / P-Alumina150 / Boron Nitride G

TiO2 IR AS / FOS treatment

Total heavy metals threshold < 20ppm (expressed as lead) in the RM.

High Purity & Child labor Free

Global Cosmetic Compnay Heavy metals standards

Compliance with E172, bur not comply with the global company`s internal standards

Commission Regulation (EU) No 231/2012 (E172)

Sunchemical (Suncroma) Titan Kogyo (P-type)

Ni < 200 ppm Ni < 200 ppm

Cr < 100 ppm Cr < 100 ppm

Co < 50 ppm

< Korea MFDS >

Nickel: eye cosmetics below 35㎍/g, color cosmetics below 30㎍/g, other cosmetics below 10㎍/gOpinion : 2017.12.8 ~ 12.28 (2017-441)Regulation start date : 2017. 12. 29. (2017-114)

Items Max (ppm)

Pb 10

As 3

Hg 1

Cd 3

Sb 5

Ni 20

Cr 20

Co 20

• High purity grade iron oxides

• Low heavy metals contents

• Highly pigmented iron oxides

• Low oil absorption

• Good dispersibility & hydrophobicity

• Compliance with global regualtions

- EU : EC No 1223/2009 – Annex IV (E172)

- USA : FDA 21 CFR 73.2250

• REACH full registered

• Application : Powders, oil dispersion, W/O emulsion

HP I.O.Yellow 3AS

HP I.O.Red 3AS

HP I.O.Black 3AS

HP Iron Oxide Yellow/Red/Black 3AS

Pb As Hg Cd Sb

≤ 10ppm ≤ 2ppm ≤ 1ppm ≤ 3ppm ≤ 5ppm

Ni Cr Co

≤ 20ppm ≤ 20ppm ≤ 20ppm

L'Oréal R&I development

NATURAL MICAS ORIGIN : If mines are located in India, should be only sourced from Merck

https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/

Up to 20,000 children are stimated to work

in the mines, around 90% of which are

illegal, according to a recent report by

NGOs Terre des Hommes and SOMO

Beauty companies and the struggle to source child labour-free mica

Child labor issue of Indian Mica

Sericite L AS

• High putiry grade Sericite

(Low heavy metals contents)

• Lamellar shape with High aspect ratio

• High whiteness ≈ 92

• Crystalline silica ≤1.0% (XRD)

• Very smooth and soft

• Average particle size: 10 ㎛

• Alkyl silane treatment

• Good affinity to skin

• Good water repellence

• Application : Powders

Beforewettingwith oil

Afterwettingwith oil

Sericite LCompetitor`s

Sericite

Pb As Hg Cd Sb

≤ 10ppm ≤ 2ppm ≤ 1ppm ≤ 5ppm ≤ 5ppm

Mica G AS / Mica H AS

Mica G AS Mica H AS

Mica G AS Mica H AS

• Lamellar shape with

high aspect ratio

• Excellent spreadability

• Place of Mine : China

• Wet ground

• Triethoxycaprylylsilane treated

• Application: All typesMica H AS Mica G AS

Size 13 ~16㎛

TextureGlossy

Transparent

Matt

Cover

Natural Mica Syn-Mica HP2

Before

wetting

with oil

After

wetting

with oil

Syn-Mica M/HP1/HP2/HP3

M HP1 HP2 HP3

HP3

Syn-Mica

HP2

Syn-Mica

M

Syn-Mica M HP1 HP2 HP3

Size 14㎛ 10㎛ 15㎛ 24㎛

TextureGlossy

TransparentMattCover

*available coating : AS (Triethoxycparylylsilane)

• Lamellar shape with high aspect ratio

• High purity grade Synthetic Mica(Low heavy metal contents)

• Fluorine elution less than 20ppm

• High whiteness → Anti darkening

• Soft and smooth texture

• REACH full registered

• Application : All types

Environment

EthylHexylMethoxycinnamate

Benzophenone-3

Results of the Center for Drug Evaluation and Research

(CDER) under the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

The blood concentration of six chemicals, including ▲ Avobenzone ▲

Oxybenzone ▲ Octocrylene, ▲ Homosalate ▲ Oxisalate ▲ Octinoxate

etc., which are included in sunscreen products, has increased every day.

On the seventh day after the discontinuation of use, it exceeded the

FDA safety standard of 0.5 NPB (nanograms per milliliter). In particular,

Homo salate and Oxybenzone exceeded safety standards until the 21st

day.

Environmental destruction of organic sunscreen

KSPEARL's Sunscreen Line-up

Eco-Friendly Sunscreen & Silica

EU (EC 1223/2009 Annex IV 30a) ASEAN (ACD Annex VII 29a)

Purity

≥ 96 % with wurtzite crystalline structure and physical

appearance as clusters that are rod-like, star-like and/or

isometric shapes, with impurities consisting only of

carbon dioxide and water, whilst any other impurities are

less than 1 % in total

Same with EU (EC 1223/2009 Annex IV 30a)

Median

diameter of

the particle

number size

D50 (50 % of the number below this diameter) > 30 nm

and D1 (1 % below this size) > 20 nm Same with EU (EC 1223/2009 Annex IV 30a)

Water

solubility < 50 mg/L Same with EU (EC 1223/2009 Annex IV 30a)

Coating

materials

uncoated, or coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane,

dimethicone, dimethoxydiphenylsilanetriethoxycaprylyl

silane cross- polymer, or octyl triethoxy silane.

Coating materials can be used that have been

demonstrated to be safe and not to affect the nanoparticle

properties related to the behaviour and/or effects

EU and ASEAN

USA

∙ USP grade Zinc Oxide

∙ Facility registration on US FDA.

∙ Drug listing for API(Active Pharmaceutical ingredients) - NDC(National drug code)

Nano Zinc Oxide global regulatory

UVAUVB

M-ZnO P AS

Zinc Oxide (100nm)

• Excellent Shielding for UV-A

• Triethoxycaprylylsilane treated ZnO

• Good tansparency

• Primary particle size: 30 ~ 50 nm

• Long lasting

• Zinc Oxide which meets EC No 1223/2009,

no.30a, Zinc Oxide (nano)

• Application : All types

M-ZnO P AS

M-ZnO P AS

Competitor

UVB UVA

M-ZnO P AS

SPF & PA in-vivo Test Result

M-ZnO P AS vs Competitor`s nano ZnO

Skin

Cream

M-ZnO P ASOMC

Only OMC OMC & nano ZnO

SPF Boosting with OMC

· Instituition : Ellead CO.,LTD.· Test method

-SPF : Cosmetics Europe SPF Test Method(ISO 24444)-PFA : UVA sun protection method by JCIA(ISO 24442)

· Number of people : 10

KSP Suncream

SPF50+/PA+++

KSP Inorganic

Suncream

SPF 50+/PA++++

Micro TiO2 035 AS 3 -

MT-012 SA - 7

M-ZnO P AS 8 13

UVINUL MC 80 7 -

SPF SPF 62.4 SPF 55.3

PFA PFA 9.11, PA[+++] PFA 16.84, PA[++++]

Environment

· Institution : Ellead CO.,LTD.· Test method

-SPF : Cosmetics Europe SPF Test Method(ISO 24444)-PFA : UVA sun protection method by JCIA(ISO 24442)

· Number of people : 10

SPF & PA in-vivo Test Result

Trade nameKSP Inorganc Suncream

SPF50+/PA++++

MT-012 SA 7

M-ZnO P AS 13

SPF SPF 55.3±9.9

PFA PFA 16.84±3.93 PA[++++]

- Caprylryl Silane Treated Micro TiO2 (Average particle size 60 nm)

- Both UV-A and UV-B Shielding Capacity and moderate opacity.

- Granular shape

- Higher UV-A shielding Capacity than micro ZnO.

- Higher UV-B shielding Capacity than 20㎚ TiO2 and 35㎚ TiO2.

- Less Oxidation and photoactivity than 20㎚ TiO2 and 35㎚ TiO2.

- Better spreadability than micro ZnO, 20㎚ TiO2 and 35㎚ TiO2.

TEM Image

Micro TiO2 060 AS

Micro TiO2 035 AS (35nm)

Micro TiO2 060 AS (60nm)

Company A (15nm)

UVB UVA

KSP SUN BB

SPF 50+ / PA++++

KSPEARL BB

SPF 50 / PA+++

KSPEARL BB

SPF 40+ / PA+++

TiO2 CR-50 AS - 6.9 6.9

Micro TiO2 060 AS 15.0 8.5 5.5

UVINUL MC 80 7.0 7.0 7.0

SPF 67.3 52.40 47.40

PFA 20.08 (PA ++++) 11.81 (PA+++) 11.00 (PA+++)

SPF & PA in-vivo Test Result

BB Cream

Twin Pact

Silky Moist Twin Pact

30/+++

TM 50 DAS 10.0

Micro TiO2 060 AS 5.5

UVINUL MC 80 3.2

SPF 30.40

PFA 11.05

O

O

O OO O

OO

S

i

S

i

S

i S

iO

O

Pigmen

t

Compatibility with Silicon Oil

Hydrocarbon : Compatibility withGeneral OilAS (Triethoxycaprylylsilane) treatment

• Octyl (hydrocarbon) group gives compatibility with oil.

• Short hydrocarbon (octyl) chain gives light texture, not stickiness.

• Si group has compatibility with silicon oil.

All in One

Pigmentary TiO2 (cover)

Micro TiO2 (SPF)

Zinc Oxide (PA)

Micro TiO2 060 AS(Cover + SPF + PA)

• All in One : SPF + PA + Cover

• Reduced Pigment → Enhanced Texture

- Microbeads, typically under 5mm in size, are used as abrasive exfoliants in products such as toothpastes and facial cleaners.

-The types of plastic microbeads :polyethylene (PE), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), nylon polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polypropylene (PP)

Plastic Microbead Free Make-up products ??

-theguardian news, November 18, 2015

Environmental issue of Plastic Microbeads

Environment

KSPEARL's Substitute

Environment

Micro Plastic Bead FREE

*Talc free

- Soft and moisture texture similar to organic microbeads

- Low oil absorption : < 20ml/100g

→ No effect on viscosity and stability of emulsion or oil dispersion

formulations

- Average particle size : 7㎛

- Chemically stable inorganic powder and no skin irritation

- Alkyl silane treated → Long lasting & Good dispersibility in oil

- Application : Powders, Oil dispersion, W/O emulsion

Texture

Porous Silica Bead(General Silica Bead)

Non-Porous Silica Bead(Soft Silica AS)

Spre

adabili

ty

Softness

PMMA

Nylon PowderSoft Silica AS

Silica Bead AS

Soft Silica AS

Silicone Free Cosmetics

★ 3% Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treated

★ Excellent dispersibility and low viscosity in oil system

★ Excellent hydrophobicity

★ Good skin affinity

★ Application : Powders, oil dispersion, W/O emulsion

Oil dispersibilityFeatures

Chemical Bonding Process

TiO2 CR-50 ST non treated TiO2

High loading test

40% of Titanium dioxide in caprylic/capric triglycerides

→ ST treated pigments show excellent dispersibility and low

viscosity in several oils.

OHOH

Ti OO

3O

OOH

Ti OO

O

IPA

O

O

O

Pigment Pigment

Product Name

TiO2 CR-50 ST

HP Iron Oxide Yellow ST

HP Iron Oxide Red ST

HP Iron Oxide Black ST

TiO2 CR50 AS

0H

2H 24H

CAPRYLYL METHICONE

DIBUTYL ADIPATE

DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE

★ CAPRYLYL METHICONE, DIBUTYL ADIPATE, PROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE-> Good dispersibility

CAPRYLYL METHICONE

DIBUTYL ADIPATE

DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE

CAPRYLYL METHICONE

DIBUTYL ADIPATE

DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE

TiO2 CR50 ST

0H

2H 24H

ISODODECANE-> Good dispersibility

CAPRYLYL METHICONE

DIBUTYL ADIPATE

DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE

CAPRYLYL METHICONE

DIBUTYL ADIPATE

DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE

CAPRYLYL METHICONE

DIBUTYL ADIPATE

DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE

Clean Beauty

Silicone FREEAccording to a study of 'inhalation toxicity', inhaled cosmetic ingredients

could be harmful to human health because they found a cancer from

laboratory rats.

Hazard of D4, D5 and D6

• Synthetic mica based Black Iron Oxide

• Fluorine elution ≤ 20ppm guaranteed

• Low heavy metals contents

• Triethoxycaprylylsilane treated

• Good dispersibility & hydrophobicity

• Compliance with global regulations (iron oxide)

- EU : EC No 1223/2009 – Annex IV (E172)

- USA : FDA 21 CFR 73.2250

Silky Black ASMicroscope Image

Syn-Mica

Iron Oxide

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Particle size distribution

Innovative Powders

Iron Oxide Black pigment Silky Black AS

Hand Mix HenschelMixer

Hand Mix HenschelMixer

* Color/Talc=1:1 30s mixing

Dispersibility Test

Comparison of color difference between mixing by hand of powder and Talc and mixing by mixer for 30 sec.

Endurance

Black Iron Oxide does not separate from Syn-mica easily

SEM image after mixing Silky Black AS and Talc by henschel mixer for 30s

Silky Black AS has less color drift by mixing method, mixing time, etc.

Platy Alumina Powder

• INCI : Alumina (or Synthetic Sapphire)

• Refractive index

Human skin(1.70) and Platy alumina(1.76)

have similar refractive indices

-> good cover, but still natural look

• Soft focusing / Coverage

Covers even the tiniest pores, wrinkles and

blemishes

• Application : Powders, Eyeshadow,

BB cream and Foundation

P-Alumina150 P-Alumina150N

Size(㎛) 9 11

Surface

area (㎡/g)7.5 3.5

P-Alumina150

P-Alumina150N

Before Make-up with P-Alumina150 After Make-up with P-Alumina150

Boron Nitride G

• INCI : Boron Nitride• Lamellar crystal structure improves texture• Soft and lubricious for superior spreading

and adherence• Luminous coverage• Application : All types

Particle Size Distribution

BN

(%)

B2O3

(%)

Particle

size (㎛)BET

(m2/g)

>99 <0.1 11~13 4-15

1um

1um

Thermal Skin Aging by Infrared

Thermal Skin Aging

31~33℃ 40℃Ideal skin temp Thermal skin aging temp

Active collagen synthesis in the skin

Maintain collagen and elastic fibers existing in the skin

→Skin regeneration & Prevention of skin aging

Reduced collagen synthesis in the skin

Decompose collagen and elastic fibers present

in the skin

→ Loses elasticity & Generation of wrinkles

TiO2 IR AS

Heat Shielding Test

IR Transmittance & Reflectance

TiO2 CR-50 AS

MT-012 SA

TiO2 IR AS

TiO2 CR-50 AS

MT-012 SA

TiO2 IR AS

TiO2 CR-50 AS

MT-012 SA

TiO2 IR AS

PET film (blank)

Infrared region Infrared region

Infrared lamp

Sample film

Measurement point

Microscope Images

Transparency Images

TiO2

CR-50 AS

MT-012

SA

TiO2

IR AS

Hydrophobicity and Lipophobicity

Chemical Bonding Process

OHOH

SiO

OOH

Ethanol

F F F

F FF

FFF

Pigment Pigment

SiO

F F F

F FF

FFF

O

Water Silicone Oil

Water

Ester Oil

Ester Oil

on the surface of TiO2 CR-50 FOS

Product Name

TiO2 CR-50 FOS

HP Iron Oxide Yellow FOS

HP Iron Oxide Red FOS

HP Iron Oxide Black FOS

Talc 13R FOS

Sericite L FOS

TiO2 CR-50 ST

Water Silicone Oil Ester Oil

on the surface of TiO2 CR-50 AS

Water

Ester Oil

FOS Treatment

★ Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane treated

★ Excellent hydrophobicity and

good lipophobicity

★ Long lasting & Anti darkening effect

★ Moderate dispersibility in silicone oil

★ PFOA and PFOS free

KOREANew Innovative Cosmetics

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