kefir
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About aspects in Russian culture such as food and dining but also other things not very well known and understood other than Russians themselvevsTRANSCRIPT
Kefir
Photo from mamka.ru
The drink of pleasure
Just like hardboiled eggs, kefir was one of the basic ingredients of the Soviet diet. Often offered at
sanatoriums and canteens, the fermented dairy drink was mandatory to insure workers’ good health and
mood. Though it has given way to milkshakes and yogurts in recent times, it still remains a popular
traditional Russian drink.
However, not many know that kefir originated many centuries ago in the Caucasus Mountains. The word
kefir means pleasure drink. There are many myths and legends about the beverage. According to one,
Prophet Mohammed gave kefir grains to people and showed them how to make the drink. But the Prophet
warned that the drink would lose its healing properties if the grains and recipe were given away.
That’s why the so called “grains of the Prophet” were guarded jealously, considered part of a family’s wealth
and passed on from generation to generation. For many centuries foreign travelers could only try and enjoy
the drink in the Caucuses. Even the Italian trader and explorer, Marco Polo, mentioned kefir in his travel
chronicles.
Bringing kefir to Russia
Meanwhile stories about kefir’s magic powers reached Russia. At the beginning of the 20th century,
members of the All Russian Physician’s Society decided to get the famous kefir grains, whatever it took, and
make the drink available to their patients. The doctors went to Moscow Dairy owner Nikolaj Balandov and
asked him to get the grains.
Nikolaj Balandov
Balandov came up with a James-Bond like plan. He sent his employee, the beautiful young Irina Sakharova,
to the Caucasian Prince Bek-Mirza Bachorov. Sakharova was to charm the prince and persuade him to give
her the grains. The prince was charmed, but did not give the coveted secret ingredient. Irina left to look for
luck in other places. But shortly after, she was kidnapped and sent back to the prince.
The prince explained that her abduction was only part of the local tradition of “stealing a bride” and offered
her to marry her. But the Russian beauty wasn’t charmed. A daring rescue mission organized by Balandov’s
agents saved Irina from the forced marriage. Facing prosecution, Bek-Mirza was ordered to give Irina what
she wanted.
The launch of mass production
Thus, the mysterious kefir grains came to Russia and in 1909 kefir’s era in the country began. By the 1930s
kefir was being produced on a large commercial scale in the Soviet Union. Originally, kefir was made from
cows or goats milk in skin bags that were hung near the door. Everyone who passed through the doorway
was expected to prod the sack to mix the kefir grains with the milk. However it was impossible to produce
kefir in large quantities using the same method.
Книга о вкусной и здоровой пище
Nevertheless, since that time, kefir became a daily staple of the Soviet diet. Mentioned in many songs and
tales, as in olden times, it’s still believed to have many healing properties. For instance, if you come to
Russia, and by mistake have “over tried” another traditional drink – vodka - then in the morning you should
drink kefir. It’s known as a great hangover cure. It’s also often the main - if not the only - component of
weight loss diets. Some suggest fighting fat with kefir and recommend drinking nothing but kefir for one or
two days.
Healing properties
But while some may argue the effectiveness of the kefir diet, there is no argument about its medicinal
properties. Kefir is rich in vitamin B, folic acid, and easily digested proteins. It has a lot of good bacteria that
helps digestion and is also good for people suffering from anemia and other diseases. It can even be drunk
by the lactose intolerant.
However, it’s not a panacea. Those who have stomach ulcers are not recommended to drink it. Nowadays
this ancient drink is not only sold in former Soviet Union states, but continues to conquer Europe and
America.
Ded Moroz
Image from www.stutzbart.ru, author: Eldar Zakirov
Grandfather Frost
Ded Moroz or Father Frost, the Slavic version of Santa Claus, long ago became the symbol of Russian
winter, New Year’s and presents. He is usually accompanied by his granddaughter Snegurochka riding with
an evergreen tree in a traditional Russiantroika, a sleigh drawn by three horses abreast.
Snegurochka is a unique attribute of the image of Ded Moroz – none of his foreign colleagues have such a
cute companion.
The original Russian gift-giver was Saint Nicholas, the country's Patron Saint, whose Feast Day is
celebrated on December 6th. The image of Saint Nicholas originates from the image of another hero – the
ancient Morozko. In Russian folklore Morozko is a powerful hero and smith who chains water with his “iron”
frosts. Morozko was not hostile to people - he helped them and presented them with awesome presents.
In fairy tales Morozko is at times kind and at times evil. To be precise, he is kind towards the hard working
and the good-hearted, but extremely severe with the mean and the lazy. And it is not about justice only. It is
rather about two personalities living in one magical person.
Ded Moroz and the Communists
In 1917, with the Bolshevik Revolution, Ded Moroz was banished into exile. He was considered a kind of a
kids’ god, which was impermissible during Soviet times when Russian leaders were flatly against any
manifestations of religiousness. But only 20 years later Ded Moroz returned to the country and New Year’s
celebrations became public. Since then Ded Moroz and Snegurochkaappear on New Year’s Eve, putting
presents under the fir tree for the kids to find in the morning.
Image from www.zastavki.com
Visiting him at home
Those wishing to make acquaintance with Ded Moroz in his domestic surroundings can board trains and
travel to the picturesque town of Veliky Ustyug in the Vologodsky Region of Northern Russia (approximately
500 miles northeast of Moscow) where, situated in the dense taiga forest at the confluence of three rivers,
sits the log cabin ofDed Moroz.
There, in Veliky Ustyug, Ded Moroz waits through the summer reading letters that kids from
all over the country have written to him regarding the presents they wish to find under the
New Year’s Tree the next January 1st.
Characteristics
Image from www.snegurochka-dedmoroz.ru
Ded Moroz has a number of distinguishing features that help tell him apart from his foreign colleagues: his
shirt and trousers are made of flax and are usually decorated with white geometrical ornamental patterns.
His fir coat is ankle long and is embroidered with silvery stars and crosses. His hat should be red and
embroidered with pearls.
Ded Moroz wears mittens and a wide white belt. His footwear is luxurious – high boots with silver
ornamentation, but on an exceptionally chilly day Ded Moroz can opt for valenki!
And finally he never appears without his pikestaff – made either of silver or crystal, it possesses a twisted
gripe. It helps the not-so-young Ded Moroz make his way through the deep dark forest during long winter
nights.
Despite the respectful age and the benevolent character children often tease Ded Moroz calling him “Ded
Moroz the Red Nose.”
Ded Moroz it yourself!
Sometimes desperate parents of extra curious children eager to meet Ded Moroz in person disguise
themselves as the gift-giver. In this case traditions are usually violated and the fake Fathers Frost may be
noticed wearing slippers while their cotton-wool beards hang half glued to their chins.
Those who haven’t had the chance to meet the true Russian Ded Moroz and his cool granddaughter still
have an opportunity to see their tiny replicas under the New Year’s Tree every December. Little statuettes,
very accurately made, are often brought home by foreigners who long for genuine Russian winters,
traditions and frost.
Stilyagi
Screen shot from the movie "Stilyagi"
It’s the 1950s, it’s Russia and The Iron Curtain is very firmly in place.
But outside influences are beginning to slip through the cracks. Through the mediums of fashion and music,
the rock-n-roll phenomenon began to take root in the guise ofMoscow’s stilyagi or “hipsters”.
Against the grey backdrop of a cold war USSR, these daredevil teenagers sported daring, modern haircuts
and makeup with brightly colored Western ties, jackets and pompadour trousers. An underground
movement, they listened to the subversive, forbidden strains of American jazz and rock.
When Bill Haley’s “Rock Around The Clock” hit airwaves around the world in 1954, teenagers everywhere
began change, not only in the way they dressed and the type of music they listened to, but also in attitude.
Screen shot from the movie "Stilyagi"
Like London’s “teddy boys”, Moscow’s hipsters defied social convention and the oppressive monotony of
their everyday lives. But the drama of their unique historical context makes the stilyagi a uniquely fascinating
cultural phenomenon. Unlike their contemporaries in Europe and the US, these youngsters risked not only
the wrath of their parents, but the risk of arrest with the Russian police systematically organizing round-ups.
But for them it was worth it, for the stilyagi believed fervently in freedom of expression; not only for
themselves but for all those around them and they resented the control with which the Soviet government
ruled all aspects of their public and private lives.
In 2008, their mark was forever immortalized in the history books when acclaimed director Valery Todorovski
dedicated his hugely popular 2008 film to its namesake, “Stilyagi”. It’s a nostalgic, feel-good romp of a
musical. But the movie sets out to prove that rock-n-roll is not only about music – it is about a lifestyle and
the need of all young people the world over to imprint their own personality on the way they live.
Written by Alice Hibbert , RT news anchor and correspondent
Skomorokh
Skomorokhs during Shrovetide in Moscow (RT
Photo)
The “Skomorokhs” were ancient Russian strolling performers, who entertained people with songs, dances,
comic plays and acrobatic tricks. They appeared in Russia in the 11th century, and were considered “devil
servants” and outlawed by the church in 17th century.
Historians have not yet come to any conclusions about the origins of the word and the phenomena. Some
say the first skomorokhs came to Russia from Europe, while others point out that the word “skomorokh”
resembles the Byzantine word “skommarkh” – “master of laughter”, street comedian. Another version is that
skomorokhs appeared in Russia without the help of neighboring countries and cultures, and their shows
were the last remains of Russian pagan ceremonies, much like fairy-tales are the echoes of ancient myths.
Skomorokhs added a new genre to Russian folk art – drama, especially puppet comedy. They staged tales,
made plays out of song lyrics or composed plays themselves. The character of their performances
represented common social stereotypes, actors performed in masks, and this made skomorokh shows akin
to Italian commedia dell arte. Comedies had simple plots and coarse humor, but their audience was
unpretentious.
Skomorokhs contributed greatly to the development of Russian folk music. And literature researchers have
found out that skomorokhs not only were mentioned in many folklore epic poems – bylinas, but participated
in their composition and distribution.
18th century engraving depicting the
skomorokhs
The majority of skomorokhs traveled from town to town, but some found rich noble patrons and settled in
their households. Even the infamous Russian ruler Ivan the Terrible often invited skomorokhs to palace
celebrations, and danced together with them in disguise.
One of the first representations of skomorokhs was found among the wall-paintings in the Sophia Cathedral
in Kiev. It was painted in 1037, and depicts a dancing and singing skomorokh troupe. In spite of this, church
authorities always criticized skomorokhs, accusing them of dealing with the devil and drawing people away
from religion. Wearing masks, playing music and wide usage of swear words were considered to be signs of
evil. Skomorokhs answered with laughter: a silly and greedy priest often appeared in their plays to be
defeated by a smart and witty peasant.
In the middle of 17th century, the patriarch talked the Tsar into prohibiting skomorokhs all over the country.
Moreover, all masks, masquerade costumes, and folk musical instruments were to be destroyed. Five full
carts of gusli, most popular skomorokh musical instrument, were gathered and burned to ashes in Moscow
after the Tsar signed the aforementioned prohibition.
After that, skomorokhs would appear sporadically here and there, but this tradition began to fade. Wandering
skomorokhs left their “jobs”, and many of them mastered the new professions of robbers and thieves.
Settled skomorokhs became professional musicians, dancers and actors.
Dacha
Photo from http://base.zem.ru/
How it all began
The word “dacha” originated in the 17th century from the verb “davat’” (to give), in reference to plots of land
distributed by the Tsar.
At the beginning of the 18th century during the reign of Peter the Great dachas became popular as summer
holiday retreats. The nobility used their dachas for social and cultural gatherings, including masquerade balls
and fireworks displays.
By the end of the 19th century, a house in the country was one of the necessary possessions of the rich as
well as the middle class. Russian poets and playwrights (including Alexander Pushkin and Anton Chekhov)
mentioned dachas in their works. Summer homes in beautifully adorned areas became a “place-to-be” for
many Russian artists. Many types of goods were specially manufactured for dacha use – from lady’s
accessories such as fans and hat to furniture items and even toilets.
At the beginning of the 20th century Maxim Gorky published a play entitled “Summerfolk” (in Russian –
“Dachniki”). The author and political activist (who later became a leading socialist writer) critically portrayed
dacha dwellers and their guests. He wanted to show that these educated folk knew nothing about the needs
and troubles of ordinary people. Thirteen years after the work
Photo from http://rosatrans-tlt.ru
was published the 1917 Russian Revolution deprived most owners of their dachas. some of which were
turned into the “holiday homes” for workers.
Zero point zero six of a hectare – dachas for everyone
Many foreigners can’t help wondering why Muscovites spend so much time in huge traffic jams on Friday
and Sunday evenings from April to November (in the South of Russia – from March to December). The
answer is simple - residents want to get out of the city right after work to spend as much time as possible at
their dachas. For many generations these small summer homes have been a multi-functional phenomenon.
Some people grow vegetables here to sell. Others grow the food to live on. There are also people who
spend their holidays at their dachas. This way of leisure was popular in Soviet times and is making a
comeback today with the global financial crisis cutting into many people’s savings.
How did this “nationwide passion” start?
In the middle of the 1950s, as the country healed from the devastation and hunger caused by World War II,
people began to think about small plots of land in the country. For some it was not just a weekend getaway.
A dacha with a small plot of land let people save their tiny incomes. Here they could plant their own
vegetables. They stored potatoes in cellars, pickled cucumbers and made jams out of apples and pears in
order to have some food reserves to last through the cold Russian winter.
The state played a big part in the process. There were many regulations at the local level. The biggest issue
was the size of the allotment. In many regions plots did not exceed 0.06 hectares (in Russian – shest’
sotok). This figure was thoroughly calculated by the bureaucrats. A plot this size was too small for most
people to live on permanently; authorities needed to keep workers in the big cities and were not interested in
the restoration of private farming on a wider scale. The concession of the “zero point zero six of a hectare”
was necessary because the country could not provide its people with enough food. As a result many dacha
settlements sprang up with small houses standing right next to each another.
A typical plot of land was surrounded by berry trees and shrubs. There was a small house (in many cases -
with no conveniences at all) and a hut for storing garden tools. Around the house there were rows of plants
and vegetables. In the areas around Moscow potatoes, tomatoes, and cucumbers were the main crops.
However, the owners’ fantasies about what to plant knew no boundaries. A row of strawberries became “a
must” for many (strawberries usually ripen faster than everything else). In the south beans and even melons
were grown, while in Siberia many dacha lovers liked to plant sakura (Japanese cherries). At the beginning
of the 1960s the number of fruit trees that could be planted was heavily regulated by the rules of the dacha
settlement. The aim of this measure was to make the area visually pleasing. Later all these quotas were
lifted. The same was true for the size of the plot – if you wanted a bigger plot you could simply buy your
neighbor’s land or find another plot somewhere else.
Photo from http://www.metronews.ru
In the 1980s, due to the shortage of goods in stores, farming at dachas became a massive phenomenon.
For some it was more necessity then pleasure, as modern farming tools were not readily available. But
others took their dacha trials as a hobby. They took pride in inventing something unique for their flowers and
vegetables, such as greenhouses or unique water-spraying devices. Still others tried to think of ways to
fertilize the ground not just with manure, but other additives. Many unnecessary items from city apartments
could easily be turned into useful gadgets for the dacha. For example, if you had too many empty cola
bottles you could cut them in half and use the bottom part to protect young plants from cold spring nights.
The harvest was a special pride for many people – some sold their produce, while others gave it away to
their neighbors and friends. It was common to share the seeds of rare plants with others. Real fans think
about their dacha all year long. In winter they plant tomato, cucumber, pepper and eggplant seeds in small
pots that they keep on the window sills of their apartments - and at the beginning of May they re-plant them
at their dachas.
Photo from http://www.c-b-c.ru
Many dacha lovers chose to live on their plots of land. They built good houses with all the necessary
facilities, including heating and electrical systems. Having a banya (a small bath house) at your dacha is not
a luxury any more. At the beginning of 1990s some Russian “nouveau riches” made “fortresses” out of their
dachas. A few even bred exotic animals - like iguanas and crocodiles.
In the middle of the 1990s many residents of big cities reinstated the 19th century concept of the dacha as a
place for recreation and not for gardening (many Muscovites ignored gardening even during the Soviet
years). This created an opportunity for people in villages to rent their dachas to well-off city-dwellers. Today
there are thousands of web pages offering dachas of various sizes and comfort for rent.
“The residence of the Soviet official”
This was the definition of the word given by the Merriam Webster Dictionary in the 1950s. It would have
been more precise if it had stated “one of the residences.” Dachas played a very important role in the lives of
the leaders of the USSR and the Russian Federation. Vladimir Lenin used his Gorki residence (about 20
miles southeast of Moscow) to write works about the political and economic future of the country. His last
words and thoughts were never put into reality, however. He died in his enormous dacha in January 1924.
Joseph Stalin’s favorite Moscow dacha was called Blizhnyaya (Russian for “the closest”). It was located on
the western outskirts of the capital. Here many important meetings and ceremonial banquets took place. In
1941, after Germany attacked the Soviet Union, an exact copy of this dacha was built thousands of miles
away in the city of Kuibyshev (now Samara). The government was to be evacuated here in case of
Moscow’s surrender to the enemy. Stalin also had dachas on the Black Sea and in his native Georgia.
Nikita Khruschev spent his last days in the position of the General Secretary of the Communist Party of the
USSR at his dacha in Pitsunda on the Black Sea (now the Republic of Abkhazia) - right up until the moment
he was stripped of his duties in October 1964.
His successor, Leonid Brezhnev, used different dachas for different purposes. In his huge Black Sea dacha
in the Crimean Peninsula (now Ukraine) he gave a hospitable welcome to his foreign guests (leaders of
Eastern European countries and top Communist Party officials from all over the world). But if he felt like
hunting he invited the country’s leadership to his forest residence in Zavidovo, 100 miles northwest of
Moscow.
In 1991 hard-line Communist Party members decided to strip Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev of his
powers while he was vacationing at his Crimean dacha – he was trying to rest before signing of the new
Union Treaty within the USSR. Gorbachev later returned to Moscow with the supporters of the new Russian
President Boris Yeltsin. These events led to the dissolution of the USSR.
The current President of the Russian Federation has three official dachas – in Zavidovo, in Novo-Ogaryovo
(10 miles west of Moscow) and at the summer retreat of Bocharov Ruchei in Sochi. Most new state dachas
are constructed out of brick and concrete. The plots have plenty of greenery and places to relax (pools,
baths, fitness rooms). There are also facilities for meetings, press conferences and state visits and many
important decisions have been made during these talks in the open air. Among recent visitors to Dmitry
Medvedev’s Novo-Ogaryovo dacha is US President Barack Obama.
Photo from http://www.mforum.ru
Throughout Russian history, dachas were also “recognition” items, given as awards to prominent writers,
poets, musicians, composers, scientists, top-ranking generals and the like. They symbolized the person’s
high status. In most cases services and maintenance – sometimes even meals –were provided by the state.
Granting dachas was also a good form of control. As soon as the person fell out of favor, his or her dacha
was the first item to be taken away.
By the end of the1990s, most people had the opportunity to privatize their dachas if they wished. Those in
high places did their best to keep their summer homes - in most cases they negotiated a lower price with
officials.
Some researchers say that for many Russians the dacha is a way of “returning to paradise lost” - a source of
temporary harmony away from the hustle and bustle of the big city.
Writen by Oleg Dmitriev, RT
Golubtsi
Photo from http://doctor.kz
Golubtsi are considered to be a meal for special occasions and though not cooked very often, they’re
nevertheless loved by practically every Russian.
Golubtsi consist of cooked cabbage leaves wrapped around a variety of fillings. As with many household
dishes, different recipes prepare the dish using different fillings, sauces, etc. The filling traditionally consists
of meat, often ground beef, lamb or pork and is seasoned with garlic, onion and spices. Grains such as rice
and barley, eggs, mushrooms and vegetables can often be included in the filling as well. As only the largest
cabbage leaves can be used, small pieces of cabbages are often mixed into the stuffing and sauce.
The dish originated as a way to use leftover food, and means the recipe is adaptable so that the filling can
incorporate whatever food you have to hand.
Here is a recipe for home-made golubtsi (serves 6). The recipe can also be adapted to suit vegetarian
guests.
Ingredients
Filling:
1 pound ground beef
3/4 cup cooked rice
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1 egg
2 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
1/2 cup milk
Photo from http://cooking.ua
Sauce:
1 cans (8 ounces) tomato sauce
1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes, undrained
3 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp vinegar
1/2 cup water
2 tbsp cornstarch mixed with 1/4 cup cold water
Cooking
Drop cabbage leaves into boiling salted water and cover and cook for 3 minutes. Drain well. For filling,
combine ground beef, rice, onion, egg, and salt, pepper, and milk. Mix well and divide into 12 portions. Place
a portion into the center of each cabbage leaf. Roll leaf around filling and fasten with a wooden toothpick.
Place in a baking dish. For sauce, combine tomato sauce, tomatoes, sugar, vinegar, and 1/2 cup of water
and pour over cabbage rolls. Bake covered in a preheated 350 degree oven 40 to 45 minutes. Remove rolls
and discard toothpicks. Place pan with juices over medium heat or transfer the juices to a saucepan and
place over heat and stir cornstarch and water mixture into the sauce, bring to a boil and cook till thickened.
Written by Sara Firth, RT correspondent
Zakuska
Image by IzoSoft
The drinks companion
Zakuska is a a general word for appetizers, starters, entrees, hors d'oeuvres, however in most cases it is
the food, which accompanies vodka and other strong drinks like whisky, cognac or brandy.
The word zakuska became popular in Russia in the 18th century. At first it was a synonym for breakfast.
According to tradition, it consisted of cold dishes only. Leftovers from the previous night’s dinner were also
welcome. Later on the word zakuska was applied to all cold dishes of Russian cuisine.
The most authentic Russian zakuska are the following:
– pickled fare (cabbage, cucumbers, mushrooms)
– salted fish (sturgeon, salmon, caviar)
– smoked meat (ham, poultry, cold-boiled pork).
In the 19th century the list grew longer thanks to kholodets . Some European entrees also became zakuska,
like French pate and marinated vegetables and German "bread and butter." The 20th century brought more
pickled fare, along wit canned fish, olives and pickled salads. Russians still do their own pickling at home
and at their dachas(summerhouses).
The advantages of zakuska
Image by IzoSoft
The way zakuska are served has evolved over the years. At first zakuska were served long before lunch or
dinner and consisted of two or three dishes and vodka. Over the years they were consumed in increasingly
closer proximity to dinner and by the late 19th century became an inseparable part of the dinner itself. The
three basic ingredients remained unchanged - fish, meat and vegetables.
Perhaps the main vehicle keeping zakuska popular is strong drink, which requires some light food as a
chaser to avoid getting drunk. Few Russians sip on drinks - they simply don't know how. They drink vodka
and other drinks by shots. And zakuska is the prime assistant in this business.
There is a Russian saying that says "kogda p'esh, zakusyvat'nado" (when you drink, you should have some
zakuska). Keeping in line with it the Russian drinking culture has produced some drinking and eating
combinations the world has never known before. Some examples are cognac with herring or kholodets, port
wine with sprats and whisky with pickled cucumbers.
Pick your favourite
Today notions of strong drink and zakuska are inseparable - during Russian parties people usually sit at the
table and have vodka and zakuska for an hour or two - sometimes longer. And only then are they ready for
the main course.
Listed below are some of the most popular Russian zakuska to accompany vodka:
– pickled cucumbers and tomatoes:
– herring with onions;
– pickled mushrooms with onions;
– cold salty salmon;
– cold pickled cabbage (something like German sauerkraut)
– kholodets and fish aspic;
– vinaigrette( a mix of beetroots, pickled cucumbers, onions);
– onions marinated in vinegar;
– a can of Baltic sprats on rye bread with onions;
– caviar on bread with butter;
– Russian meat salad with slices of meat or chicken, pickled cucumbers, green peas and mayonnaise (or
sour cream)
Written by Oleg Dmitriev, RT