january 2011 feast magazine

68
feastSTL.com %MO %YEAR %PG get over it HANGOVER CURES homina homina HOMINY it’s not just for dessert anymore FLOATING ISLAND Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis feastSTL.com / JAN 2011 / FREE HEARTY WINTER DISHES

Upload: feast-magazine

Post on 29-Feb-2016

230 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

DESCRIPTION

FEAST Magazine delves deep into St. Louis’ culinary scene for inspired ideas in cooking, the latest on restaurants, great gadgets, kitchen design and dining room decor. Visit feastSTL.com for more!

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com %MO %YEAR%PG

get over it

HANGOVER CUREShomina homina

HOMINYit’s not just for dessert anymore

FLOATING ISLAND

Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis feastSTL.com / JAN 2 0 1 1 / FREE

HEARTY WINTER DISHES

Page 2: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

2 feastSTL.com JANUARY 2011

Page 3: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

3Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 4: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 20114

Is the New Year ringing in a little too loudly? Try our expert list of tried-and-true hangover cures.

PH

OTO

GR

AP

HY

BY

CA

RM

EN T

RO

ESS

ER

GET OVER IT!

63

Page 5: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

5Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

where

FORM meets FUN

CTION50

Chillin’ & Grillin’

42

ALL FIRED UP!57

Homina, Homina,

HOMINY!38

Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis

from the staff

| 8 | feaststl.com

Check out this month’s online content.

| 10 | from the PUBlIsher

Brighten your January with our winter warmers.

| 12 | feast faVes

This month’s inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis.

colUmNs

| 24 | my stUff

From the kitchen of Cravings’ Tim Brennan .

| 27 | GadGet a-Go-Go

We put five handheld can openers to the test.

| 28 | oN the shelf

New and notable in beer, wine and spirits.

| 30 | mystery shoPPer

Buy it and try it: smoked paprika.

| 32 | the cheat

Simple, seasonal and super-cute beef pot pies.

|34 | decoNstrUcted dIshes

Warm up your kitchen and your belly with braised lamb and lentils.

| 66 | PUll UP a chaIr

The Nanook chair brings a whole new meaning to “cool design.”

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Of PRIME RIB

(PAGE 42) BY Jennifer Silverberg

JANUARY 2011

Page 6: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 20116

Volume 2 / Issue 1 / January 2011

Publisher and EditorCatherine Neville

Managing EditorBrandi Wills

Online EditorKristin Brashares

Art DirectorLisa Triefenbach

Advertising Sales DirectorDonna Bischoff

Copy Editor Andrea Mongler

Proofreader Erin Callier

Contributing WritersErin Callier, Russ Carr, Pat Eby, Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs

Jennifer Johnson, Liz O’Connor, Angela Ortmann, Michael Sweeney, Scott Thomas, S.C. Truckey, Cassandra Vires

Contributing PhotographersGeoff Cardin, Ashley Gieseking, Rob Grimm, Tuan Lee

Matt McFarland, Laura Miller, Jonathan Pollack, Greg Rannells Jennifer Silverberg, Carmen Trosser

Contact UsFeast Media, 14522 S. Outer Forty Road

Town and Country, MO 63017feastSTL.com

Advertising InquiriesDonna Bischoff, 314.340.8529

[email protected]

Courtney Barczewski, 314.340.8525Rich Shelton, 314.340.8514

Editorial [email protected]

DistributionTo distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please

contact Tom Livingston at [email protected].

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2011 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLCA Lee Enterprises Company

Magazine / Saint Louis

Page 7: January 2011 FEAST Magazine
Page 8: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 20118

ONLINE CONTENT

STL.COMONLINE EXCLUSIvES > THIS MONTH’S FEAST > WATCH & LISTEN > BLOG > FEAST EvENTS > RECIPES

ALL-NEW DINNER & A SHOW! Make the most of the St. Louis-area’s best cultural events by dining at a perfectly paired restaurant. visit feastSTL.com every Thursday for our picks. Up in January: It’s all about reinvention – both in a play at The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis and at Chez Leon. Pictured are Chez Leon’s escargots bourguignonne

shop girl

DEsigN BiTEs

QuiTE ThE pair

Dinner & A Show

TravEloguE

PhotograPhy by J. Pollack PhotograPhy

connect with us at facebook.com/feastSTL for daily recipes, cooking demo videos, culinary news and behind-the-scenes photos.

Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag for up-to-the-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEaSt events and more.

On the Goaccess FEaSt anywhere you go with our mobile site, m.feaststl.com. our recipes link makes it convenient to shop for ingredients from your smart phone.

INTEraCT with FEaST

FEAST’S WEEKLY E-NEWSLETTER: get fresh content every week, including exclusive recipes by a local pro using pantry staples. Sign up at feastSTL.com.

BEHIND-THE-SCENES VIDEO: tour local ceramicist yael Shomroni’s studio, and discover the technique behind her artisan kitchenware. Scan the Microsoft tag on page 54 to watch the video from your smart phone, or view it in the Watch & listen section at feastSTL.com.

Page 9: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

9Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 10: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201110

“Forks Over Knives” Film ScreeningTue., Jan. 18, 7pm, Landmark Theater at

Plaza Frontenac

$5 donation, [email protected]

Join FEAST publisher Catherine Neville as she emcees the prescreening of this documentary examining the standard American diet and its health implications. Presented by Whole Foods Market. Reservations are required to attend the event.

Cooking ClassWed., Jan. 19, 6pm, Schnucks Cooks Cooking School

$40/person, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Cook up some comfort food with the Schnucks Cooks team at this class featuring classic cassoulet and the braised lamb featured on page 34.

Wine TastingThu., Jan. 20, 6pm, Trattoria Marcella

Complimentary, [email protected]

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a wine tasting at Trattoria Marcella.

Cooking DemoWed., Jan. 26, 6:30pm, L’Ecole Culinaire

$40/person, 314.587.2433

Scott Thomas of GrillinFools.com joins chef-instructor Matt Borchardt in L’Ecole’s kitchen to teach you the secrets behind successful winter grilling.

The Ninth Annual St. Louis Food & Wine ExperienceJan. 28 to 30, The Chase Park Plaza

repstl.org or 314.968.4925

More than 700 premier wines, 90 exhibitors and culinary demonstrations from acclaimed local and national celebrity chefs, including Lidia Bastianich of “Lidia’s Italy,” make The Repertory Theatre of St. Louis’ 9th annual St. Louis Food & Wine Experience a not-to-be-missed, weekend-long epicurean adventure.

Julia Child’s ParisMay 28 to 31, altairtravelinc.com

Join FEAST publisher Catherine Neville in Paris and explore the landmarks of Julia Child’s culinary adventures. Then continue the journey (through June 7) with Catherine and McGraw Milhaven as they travel up the Siene to Normandy.

Cat’s PicksWednesdays, 8:35am, The BIG 550 KTRS

Tune in as FEAST publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.

IFROM THE PUBLISHER

feedback?

[email protected]

don’t know about you, but this time of year, I like to spend weekends wrapped up in a big sweater, reading a good book while something simmers on the stove and then pop open a rich, earthy Bordeaux when dinnertime rolls around.

Blustery and bleak, January’s frigid temps and long nights call for dishes that warm you from the inside out. Long-cooked, hearty entrées, like the braised lamb with lentils on page 34, fit perfectly into this month’s dinner plans. This issue’s recipes for easy pot pie, spicy duck posole and a hominy-and-jalapeño casserole are all on my list of things to make this month.

Yael Shomroni’s azure casserole dishes, featured on page 50, will be my oven-to-table bakeware of choice. I’m excited to be able to introduce you to her beautifully glazed, fully functional pottery. Once you see her gorgeous dishes, you’ll never use that boring glass bakeware again.

But it should be noted that just because it’s winter doesn’t mean all the cooking happens indoors. It may be freezing out there, but don’t neglect that grill on your deck. No, seriously, turn to page 42. The fine folks at GrillinFools.com have offered up all the tips necessary – plus some seriously tasty recipes – to get you grilling, even in January.

All this culinary heat even extends to the restaurant scene, where more and more chefs are cooking in wood-burning ovens. This traditional cooking method makes an amazing pizza, no surprise there. But local restaurants are pulling some interesting stuff from those ovens, like roasted olives, lamb chops and yes, even chicken wings. With all the great flavors to explore this month, January doesn’t seem that bleak after all.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville

PH

OTO

GR

AP

Hy

By

Tu

an L

ee

PSfeaST eVeNTS

Page 11: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

11Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 12: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201112

PH

OTO

GR

AP

Hy

by

Geo

ff C

ardi

n

T h e T avern KiTche n & BarComfort food with an upscale twist. This is what diners can look forward to at this new Valley Park restaurant. Our favorite place to sit is squarely overlooking the kitchen, diner-style. While perched on your front-row seat, watch the swift kitchen crew craft classic dishes such as a steaming bowl of orange-laced fisherman’s stew and house-made pappardelle pasta tossed with tangy stewed tomatoes and Italian sausage. Heartier appetites will be sated by the apple-rosemary pork tenderloin paired with a smile-inducing Tater Tot casserole. And if you’re just dropping by for a beer (The Tavern has a small, but good, selection of craft beers), pair those suds with the Kennebec chips served with guacamole and a buttermilk-blue cheese sauce.

2961 Dougherty Ferry Road, Suite 101 Valley Park tavernstl.com

FEAST FAVES / where we’re dining

The Tavern Kitchen & Bar

636.825.0600

Valley Park

Page 13: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

13Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Salsa verde – real salsa verde – is an addictive amalgam of deceptively simple ingredients that, when mixed in proper proportions, produce a sauce that’s spicy, salty, creamy and herbaceous. And what’s the secret behind the creamy, slightly thick texture of Taqueria el Bronco’s stellar salsa? Avocado. Once you’ve tasted freshly made salsa created in the Mexican tradition, you’ll never buy jarred picante again. Whether served simply with chips or drizzled on any of el Bronco’s fantastic Mexican fare, this salsa is a star.

2812 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District 314.762.0691

| 1 | Emile Henry mortar and pestle, $35; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com | 2 | Green marble mortar and pestle, $14.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com | 3 | Mint modern mortar and pestle, $48; Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, winslowshome.com

Mortar & Pestle

FEAST FAVES / seCret IngredIent

a v ocado

PH

OTO

GR

AP

Hy

By

Geo

ff C

ardi

n

FEAST FAVES / At home

FEAST FAVES / seCret IngredIent

Taqueria el Bronco

314.762.0691

Cherokee Business DistriCt

| 1 |

| 2 || 3 |

Salsa verde served with beef tongue, pork and steak tacos

Page 14: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201114

The crispy edges will get you hooked. Each burger patty at Carl’s is griddled so it’s thin yet juicy in the center, with lacy, crisp edges emerging beyond the lettuce, tomato and melting cheese (although you can have your burger plain if you must). Other Americana favorites on the menu include onion rings and Curly Q Hot Dogs, but if you don’t order a

burger, consider the Chili 3-Ways to warm you from the inside out on a cold January afternoon. Pair it with a root beer float for an unmistakable taste of midcentury fare.

9033 Manchester Road, Brentwood 314.961.9652

PH

OTO

GR

AP

Hy

By

Geo

ff C

ardi

n

Carl’s Drive In

314.961.9652

Brentwood

FEAST FAVES / where we’re dining

Carl’s Drive in

Page 15: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

15Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 16: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201116

Page 17: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

17Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

The STeTSon

FEAST FAVES / whAT we’re drInkIng

| 1 | OXO Good Grips 3-inch Mini Strainer, $7.99; Bed, Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com | 2 | RÖsle Tea Strainer, $19; Sur La Table, 1701 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Frontenac, surlatable.com | 3 | Mesh strainer, $4.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

PH

OTO

GR

AP

Hy

By

Jon

ath

an P

olla

ck

When it comes to the upper class, there’s old money, there’s nouveau riche, and then there are the robber barons. They’re rough and tumble to start, but before you know it their slick appeal has won you over. The story is the same with The Stetson – a charming cocktail of rye whiskey, Cocchi Americano, house-made pineapple gomme, lemon juice and mole bitters. This devil in disguise has a brash booziness up front that quickly subsides into a smooth, sweet, sophisticated finish.

With so many bold flavors (you get hints of chocolate, various citrus fruits, sweet white wine and rye in every

sip), it’s hard to define the dominant element in the drink. Rather, the ingredients work together to create a handsomely seductive sipper that has you instinctively seeking out a cigar and a high-backed leather armchair.

4850 Laclede Ave., Central West Endbrasseriebyniche.com

Brasserie by Niche

314.454.0600

Central West end

The StetsonBy Ted Charak, BRASSERiE By NiCHE

According to Charak, the pineapple gomme softens the intensity of the alcohols and gives the drink a bigger mouth feel. Pineapple gomme is made by soaking macerated, peeled pineapple in simple syrup and gum arabic overnight at room temperature, then straining the mixture through cheesecloth. If you don’t have gum arabic, Charak says you can simulate the flavor by putting ¼ medium pineapple and 1 cup simple syrup through the same process; however, you’ll sacrifice the silky-smooth texture.

Serves | 1 |

1½ oz Sazerac rye whiskey ¾ oz pineapple gomme ½ oz Cocchi Aperitivo Americano ¼ oz lemon juice 2 dashes mole bitters

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients with ice in a shaker and shake until mixed. Pour through a conical strainer into a martini glass and serve.

STRAIneRS| 1 |

| 2 | | 3 |

Page 18: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201118

FEAST FAVES / DESIGN TRENDS WE LOVE

FLOATING ISLANDS

No, we’re not talking about the classic French meringue-and-custard desserts – though we’d love to have a few of those in our kitchens as well. This particular floating island is part of a bigger trend of floating cabinetry that was heavily displayed at this year’s Eurocucina design show in Milan, Italy.

“European kitchens are generally much smaller than ours, so a design feature such as this, which creates a feeling of openness and makes the room seem larger, makes total sense,” says Adrea Jones, kitchen and bath designer at RSI

Kitchen & Bath in Rock Hill. “But it also fits perfectly in a contemporary American kitchen. The floating island is multi-functional, since it’s great for both prepping and serving and doubles as an additional seating area when you need it.”

While the island pictured here protrudes from a perpendicular wall, the floating effect can also be produced using support cables above, glass below, or by creating large voids in a longer series of cabinetry. Regardless of how it’s created, it’s a trend you’ll be seeing more of in the coming years.

©ISTocKpHoTo.coM/IvANWupI

No, we’re not talking about the classic French meringue-and-custard desserts – though we’d love to have a few of those in our kitchens as well. This particular floating island is part of a bigger trend of floating cabinetry that was heavily displayed at this year’s Eurocucina design show in Milan, Italy.

“European kitchens are generally much smaller than ours, so a design feature such as this, which creates a feeling of openness and makes the room seem larger, makes total sense,” says Adrea Jones, kitchen and bath designer at RSI

Kitchen & Bath in Rock Hill. “But it also fits perfectly in a contemporary American kitchen. The floating island is multi-functional, since it’s great for both prepping and serving and doubles as an additional seating area when you need it.”

While the island pictured here protrudes from a perpendicular wall, the floating effect can also be produced using support cables above, glass below, or by creating large voids in a longer series of cabinetry. Regardless of how it’s created, it’s a trend you’ll be seeing more of in the coming years.

Page 19: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

19Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 20: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201120

Warm and nuanced, the sautéed dumplings at Franco satisfy on blustery winter nights. Packed with flavor, the tender, golden dumplings are tossed with rabbit confit, and the meat’s rich flavor is counterbalanced by tart wild huckleberries and dried cherries. This is a step beyond typical gnocchi preparations, and we love Franco’s modern approach of mixing an unexpected protein with dried fruit and rarely seen-on-a-menu berries.

1535 S. Eighth St., Soulard eatatfranco.com

FEAST FAVES / SecreT ingredienTP

HO

TOG

RA

PH

y b

y Jo

nat

han

Pol

lack

FEAST FAVES / THe diSH

Sautéed dumplingS

Franco

314.436.2500

Soulard

Page 21: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

21Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Taylor FladgaTe 20 year old Tawny PorTo

Portugal

This wine demonstrates the notion that 20-year tawnys are the pinnacle of this port style in its opulent, layered

aromas of figs, roasted pecans and caramel and subtle dried apricot and

mocha notes. Pair with Stilton cheese, apple cobbler

and chocolate fondue.

$46.99 (750ml); The Wine & Cheese Place, 7435

Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, wineandcheeseplace.com

FEAST FAVES / shop-o-matIC

FEAST FAVES / what we’re drInkIng

Choosing olive oil can be as complex and personal a process as finding your favorite wines. Their flavors range from bitter (tasting of dark chocolate or black tea) to fruity (with green, grassy notes) to pungent (quite peppery). And that’s before you get into the flavored oils, such as tarragon, smoky chipotle and Persian lime.

A shopping mall isn’t the place you’d expect to go for a specialty olive oil tasting, but at Di Olivas inside West County Center, you’ll find an impressive collection of extra-virgin olive oils from around the world. Take the personal tour of the store’s selection, and by the time you leave, you’ll understand everything from olive varietals to how to expertly match them with vinegar, herbs, spices and more.

Beyond oil and vinegar, however, this tasty shop also offers a number of gourmet pantry staples, such as coffee, flavored pastas, sauces and tapenades, and seasonings and sea salts. Our favorite salt is the black truffle sea salt, but also of note is the Fumee De Sel, which is cold-smoked with Chardonnay oak chips for a one-of-a-kind flavor.

Stop in soon and ask them to pair up a number of items, and you’ll head home with everything you need for an unforgettably flavorful dinner.

West County Center, Des Peres diolivas.com

Di Olivas

ageD Tawny POrTsPort is a fine, cold-weather, warming drink. It is an excellent companion to aged cheeses and desserts and is simply splendid by itself. With a rich history spanning nearly 400 years, port is a wine fortified by grape spirits from the Douro Valley of Portugal. Blending and maturation are the essence of port production, and wood-barrel-aged tawny port – aged 10, 20, 30 and even 40 years – is a key reflection of a port house’s craft. Tawnys exhibit a tawny color from controlled oxidative aging and assume a rich, velvety texture from high alcohol and sugar levels, with flavors reminiscent of dried fruit, nuts, caramel and spice.

Di Olivas 314.909.1171

Des Peres

PH

OTO

GR

AP

Hy

By

Ash

ley

Gie

seki

ng

WRITTen By Jennifer Johnson

arre’s oTima 10 year old Tawny PorTo

Portugal

Freshly dried dates, almond macaroons and toffee greet

the nose in the company of a lush yet refreshingly

less-than-full-bodied mouth feel and balanced acidity.

Pair with walnut bread, praline ice cream, chocolate

espresso brownies and pecorino cheese.

$26.99 (500ml); Crushed Grapes, 1500 Troy

Road, Edwardsville, crushedgrapesltd.com

Page 22: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201122

Page 23: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

23Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

| 1 | Cuisinart Green Gourmet 11-inch

grill pan, $59.99; Macy’s, multiple

locations, macys.com | 2 | Cuisinart

Green Gourmet 10-inch stainless steel

fry pan with lid, $59.95; Williams-

Sonoma, multiple locations, williams-

sonoma.com | 3 | Scanpan Professional

nonstick wok, $179.95; Sur La Table,

Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.

com | 4 | Green Pan Rocks fry pans,

$49.95-$79.95 per piece; Crate &

Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond

Heights, crateandbarrel.com

FEAST FAVES / what we’re buyIng

Eco-friEndly nonstick cookwarE

Want the ease of nonstick pans without the negative health and environmental effects? Check out these PFOA-free wares.

| 2 |

| 3 |

| 1 |

| 4 |

©iS

ToCk

PHo

To.C

oM

/MiC

Hae

LDeL

eon

Page 24: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201124

Cravings Gourmet Desserts8149 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves314.961.3534cravingsgourmetdesserts.info

Cravings is a warm, welcoming spot in Webster Groves well-known for its classic pastries and international savory fare. This culinary destination has been in operation for 27 years, so how does owner Tim Brennan stay inspired? “I travel and read a lot; I own plenty of cookbooks and spend most of my time discussing food, eating and experimenting,” he says. “Some ideas are whimsy, some are dictated by what’s available and some are based on childhood loves translated into adult tastes.”

You’ve traveled the world. What flavors have you brought back to the menu at Cravings? The veal scallopine is based on a wonderful experience at a tiny restaurant in Paris. Our rugelach comes from the time I spent in Israel. Povetica is my Croatian grandmother’s recipe. Plus a dozen items from trips to Italy, France, Germany and Ireland. Your next destination? Vienna,

another trip to Rome and southern Italy, California, New York and Montreal. What characterizes a European approach to pastry in contrast to an American approach? Typically we go for looks over tastes; Europeans are much more demanding and conscious of taste first and foremost. Do you ever bake for yourself? I typically bake my own birthday cake … [but] I can’t think of a greater compliment than for a friend to offer to me something he/she has baked. When you throw a dinner party, what’s on the menu? It could be as simple as grilled meats and fish or as complex as boeuf bourguignon. Yet I have no problem with grilled burgers. The primary reason to entertain is to spend time with family and friends. I’ve learned to master menus that limit the time I spend cooking so that I can devote attention to my guests. Favorite tableware? Waechtersbach from Germany, Noritake and utilitarian white

porcelain. Flatware? Rustic: stainless with black handles. Serving dishes? A mix of gifts: Droll platters and handmade pieces from an artist in the Pacific Northwest. What’s a typical dinner at home? Chicken with Thai green-curry sauce. Must-have kitchen gadget? I believe in good All-Clad pots. Must-have spice? A variety of sea salts. Favorite chocolate for baking? Santander from Colombia. Weirdest cake request? Family recipe that doesn’t work or uses ready-made mixes. Any cake disasters? I once baked a kosher cake in someone’s house and used matzo for the first time. I didn’t know it comes flavored, but I could tell something was wrong as it baked and I smelled chicken. Favorite trend in restaurant desserts? Putting a real focus on good quality. Least favorite? Claiming something is authentic. What do you see as the next big thing in sweets? Dates in desserts.

MY STUFF

PH

OTO

GR

AP

HY

BY

Gre

g R

ann

ells

Tim BReNNAN of Cravings WRITTEN BY Catherine Neville

Page 25: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

25Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 26: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201126

Page 27: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

27Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Rösle Can Opener

PROSWith its unconventional, superchic design; stainless steel shaft and mechanisms; and clean black knob and trim, folks will be wondering what it could be. Once you know how it works, it’s simple to operate; the knob spins fluidly and the cutter leaves blunt, ouch-free lids and cans. Top-quality construction shows in the gears, the cutter and the snappy loop for hanging. A beautiful product. Dishwasher-safe.

CONSCastaways marooned with a case of canned goods and this opener wouldn’t intuitively know how to operate it. Directions on a small hang tag in Spanish, English and French could easily end up in the trash. The shaft must be held in the left hand. Steep price.

$36.95; Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, kitchenconservatory.com

Giada De Laurentiis Can Opener

PROS Hands-down good looks for an old favorite. The zoomy handles and turning knob not only look great but also feel terrific in-hand. Giada worked in a tab puller and bottle opener too, for opening craft beers and diet sodas. Cutting blades and gears are stainless steel. Great results every time on all cans.

CONSFind this in the Giada De Laurentiis designer section at Target, not with the hoi polloi can openers. Check the surfaces of knobs and handles for finish flaws that could detract from the opener’s good looks. To free this opener from its classy packaging you’ll need a sharp utility knife and a good back-and-forth saw.

$13.99; Target, multiple locations, target.com

GaDGet a-GO-GO

Put tO the test

WriTTEn by Pat Eby

What tO LOOk FOR :

Put these openers to use when making the scrumptious dishes from this month’s feature story on hominy.

knobs or levers: Even though most can openers are tied tightly to their packaging, you should check the knobs for grip and cutting motion. The gears and the cutting wheel should turn smoothly and evenly. Comfortable handles: bigger handles make for comfortable grips on nearly every model. rubber coatings to prevent slipping are a nice touch, but not standard.

Well-machined gears and clean castings: Check the

gears for nicks, gouges or rough places. Cast parts should be smooth to the touch.

Clear instructions: newer-style can openers, especially the safe-edge models, aren’t intuitively easy to operate. Make sure the packaging has clear instructions. Diagrams help too.

safe edge: Safe-edge openers leave a clean, blunt edge on the can and lid; they’re great for homes with small children or clumsy adults. no more cut fingers.

Zyliss safe edge Can Opener

PROSThe clever design of this squat, round opener incorporates great features with style. The rubberized knob and grip feel great in-hand. A flick of the thumb swings the top open to attach the can. Flick it back and the cutter locks on. The knob action is fluent and the lid never falls in the can. Love the safe, dull edges on both can and lid. Available with gray or red trim.

CONSThe lid lifter doesn’t grab the edge as easily as the pictogram directions suggest. Opening short 6-oz cans without spills takes practice. Must be hand-washed.

$15.89; Schnucks, multiple locations, schnucks.com

essential home Compact Can Opener

PROSThis newly available compact version of an old-fashioned opener is colorful and comfortably familiar. it still grips cans tightly and then cuts smoothly and cleanly until you let the handles open. it works just as well as the full-sized version and takes less room in the drawer. Priced right for a first kitchen or for thrifty shoppers who want good quality at a low price. With hardened steel cutters and gears, this baby carries a five-year guarantee too.

CONSSlim handles and a smaller knob make gripping the opener crunchier for finger bones. The knob twists smoothly, but you have to muscle the opener to make it work.

$3.99; Kmart, multiple locations, kmart.com

OXO softWorks snap Lock Can Opener

PROS OXO built an old-fashioned-style can opener so intuitively easy to use that there’s only one line of instruction on the packaging: “Push button to release.” The locking button makes can slips a thing of the past, even if you lose your grip. With a supercomfortable hold, the cutting wheel and gear attach to the can effortlessly each time. The Mr. big knob whirls around the can with grace and ease. Pop in the dishwasher to clean.

CONSSometimes the lids come off with a tiny tug, leaving a rough place on the metal. Plus, you might need more drawer space to store this big guy.

$13.39; Dierbergs, multiple locations, dierbergs.com

Check out page38!

CA

n O

PEn

Er P

HO

TOS

by

Lau

ra M

ille

r C

An

S O

F FO

OD

by

©iS

TOCk

PHO

TO.C

OM

/EAS

ybu

y4u

CAN OPENERShANdhEld

Page 28: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

ON the shelf

BEERwritten by Michael Sweeney

When not using his spare time to make fun of people who write blogs, Michael Sweeney writes the beer blog STLHops.com. The irony is lost on him.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR JANUARYPouring wine PhotograPhy by ©iStockPhoto.com/Lauri PatterSon

New holland Knickerbocker Gin

Provenance: Holland, Mich. (42.5% abv)

available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple

locations, wineandcheeseplace.com, $21.99

beer fans in town have long enjoyed new holland’s brews, and now the company is distilling as well. the gin may be the best of its collection. it features more citrus notes than most, with lemon being dominant enough that the juniper is not overwhelming. this balance makes this a great gin for cocktails, and the price is surprisingly affordable.

New holland hatter Royale hopquila

Provenace: Holland, Mich. (40% abv)

available at: Lukas Liquor, 15921 Manchester

Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com, $24.99

as the name suggests, some may indeed find tequila similarities in this tasty nectar. a base of neutral grain barley spirit is infused with centennial hops to create a hop-flavored spirit with an interesting sweetness and gorgeous citrus notes. any margarita lover should try this as a tequila replacement. in the days of artificially flavored spirits, one featuring all-natural ingredients is a pleasant newcomer.

GET CHAD’S RECIPES

ON THE WEB

feastStl.com

fernet-Branca

Provenance: Milan, Italy (40% abv)

available at: Randall’s Wines and Spirits, multiple

locations, shoprandalls.com, $26.99

although relatively new to our market, Fernet-branca has been in production since 1845. a longtime favorite of San Francisco bartenders, it is finally gaining appeal in the midwest. this form of bitters is highlighted by chamomile, saffron and myrrh. aloe and eucalyptus dominate at first; then the bitter components take over. Don’t be afraid to simply try it chilled.

SPIRITSwritten by Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Bell’s Brewery Inc.’s hopslam

StYle: American Double IPA (10% abv)

available at: Lukas Liquor, 15921

Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.

com, $17.49 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles)

PairingS: Spicy BBQ ribs • Pepper jack cheese

bell’s hopslam becomes one of the most sought after beers in January. why the excitement? this double iPa is bursting with juicy floral hops and backed up with a touch of honey to balance the bitterness. blink and you'll miss it; when it hits the market, it’s sure to sell out fast.

Crispin Cider Co.’s Crispin Original

StYle: Hard Apple Cider (5% abv)

available at: Randall’s Wines and Spirits,

multiple locations, shoprandalls.com, $6.99

(four-pack, 12-oz bottles)

Pairing: Tandoori chicken • Roasted vegetables

ok, ok – cider isn’t technically a beer. but like beer, it’s one of the oldest beverages in the world. the wonderful thing about crispin cider is that unlike many ciders, it has a subtle sweetness that reminds you of really fresh apple juice. if you’re feeling continental, drink it over ice like the europeans do.

the saint louis Brewery’s schlafly scotch Ale

StYle: Scotch Ale (6.6% abv)

available at: Schnucks, multiple locations,

schnucks.com, $7.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles)

PairingS: Glazed pork loin • Brie

Seasonal beers can be a blessing and a curse. it’s always exciting when they’re around, but the wait for them to return seems unbearable. big and malty, the Schlafly Scotch ale is always a welcome addition to a cold January. it’s the perfect thing to warm you up when the winter chill blows up your kilt.

Page 29: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

29Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at 6pm on Thu., Jan. 20, at Trattoria Marcella. RSVP by emailing [email protected].

WINEwritten by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

2009 Hermann J. Weimer Gewürztraminer

Provenance: Finger Lakes, N.Y.

available at: St. Louis Wine Market & Tasting

Room, 164 Chesterfield Commons E., Chesterfield,

stlouiswinemarket.com, $20

Pairings: Taleggio • Sweet and sour pork • Tikka masala

From the highly regarded Hermann J. weimer Vineyard comes this delightful, food-friendly Gewürztraminer. riesling drinkers will enjoy the classic floral and bright peach aromas as well as the flavors of honeyed melon and warm spices.

2008 Lange Twins Petite Sirah Petit Verdot

Provenance: Lodi, Calif.

available at: Provisions Gourmet Market, 11615 Olive

Blvd., Creve Coeur, provisionsmarket.com, $17.99

Pairings: Charcuterie • Chicken enchiladas •

Hearty stew

Known “blending grapes” Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot make up this unique concoction from the eco-conscious and sustainability-driven Lange twins winery and Vineyards. ripe blueberry notes permeate your mouth, and layers of herbal tones and velvety tannins unfold with every taste.

2005 Gérard Bertrand Banyuls

Provenance: Banyuls, France

available at: Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine, 1722

Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, veritasgateway.com, $19

Pairings: Blue cheese • Dark chocolate • Espresso torte

banyuls is a fortified wine from the south of France produced in the same manner as port. Lower in alcohol and not as sticky-sweet, this dessert wine is made from the versatile Grenache grape. Striking scents of wild berries, plum and cedar waft gently from the glass. Hints of vanilla and raisin linger in the finish. exceptional as an aperitif or as an after-dinner indulgence.

Page 30: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201130 feastSTL.com JANUARY 201130

mySTery Shopper

How has smoked paprika been reduced to little more than a garnish for potato salad and deviled eggs? This smoky, sweet spice lends far more to a dish than its vibrant hue, adding depth and distinction of flavor.

WHAT IS IT?

Smoked paprika is a blend of dried and ground smoked, red-skinned chiles. While paprika is largely used as a garnish here in the states, in other parts of the world, such as Hungary and Spain, it’s a mainstay ingredient used for its flavor more than its color. It may look spicy-hot, like cayenne or chili powder, but many varieties are actually quite mild. That’s not to say it can’t pack a wallop – paprika comes in many colors and ranges from mild and sweet to hot and pungent. Spicy chorizo sausage is made with smoked paprika, as are many traditional Spanish tapas. With any luck, more cooks on this side of the pond will realize smoked paprika’s sweet subtleties in dishes, not just sprinkled on top.

HOW DO I USE IT?

Add smoked paprika to your next batch of chili, roasted pork or seafood stew. Put a spoonful into homemade barbecue sauce or marinades. Add a dash anywhere you add ground cumin, curry powder or coriander. Smoked paprika loves garlic, meat and seafood. Think potatoes, chickpeas and kale. It’s also great for making a dry rub or vinaigrette, something you can keep in the fridge for weeks. Infuse olive oil with a couple of teaspoons for a flavorful and colorful addition to your pantry. Smoked paprika’s subtle spice makes it a versatile staple that goes with so many savory dishes. And, though it’s really so much more, smoked paprika still makes a perfectly lovely garnish for your potato salad.

PH

OTO

GR

AP

Hy

by

Car

men

Tro

esse

r

Stop by to pick up more delicious recipes featuring smoked paprika. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.check it out!

FeasT exTra

Insalata di Ceciby MArk SAnfIlIppO And BEn pOrEMBA , SAlume beddu

Smoked paprika adds nutritional value as well as flavor to your food. It’s rich in vitamin C and other antioxidants.

Serves | 4 |

½ cup olive oil, divided ¼ lb salume Beddu pancetta, diced 4 stalks celery, thinly sliced 1 small red onion, diced 1 Tbsp tomato paste 2 tsp smoked paprika 2 cups cooked chickpeas salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ lemon, juiced extra-virgin olive oil for seasoning fresh mint leaves

| Preparation | Warm ¼ cup olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta, celery and onion and sauté until soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Remove pancetta, celery and onion to a plate. In the same pan, heat remaining ¼ cup olive oil. Add tomato paste and smoked paprika and sauté until it loses its ketchup smell. Add pancetta, celery, onion and chickpeas to the hot pan. Turn off heat. Toss to combine. Season with salt, pepper, lemon juice and high-quality extra-virgin olive oil. Serve garnished with torn mint leaves.

meeT: SMOKED PAPRIKA WRITTen by Liz O’Connor

Page 31: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

31Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 32: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201132

Serves | 8 to 10 |

1/3 cup all-purpose flour salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 lbs cubed beef sirloin, fat removed 1 Tbsp butter 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 cup finedly chopped onion 1 Tbsp minced garlic 1 bottle good quality red wine 4 cups water 2 bay leaves 1 sprig fresh thyme 15 pearl onions, peeled and whole 4 carrots, diced 4 russet potatoes, diced 1 box store-bought puff pastry, thawed according to package directions 1 egg 1 Tbsp water

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 425ºF. In bowl, combine flour and liberal amounts of salt and pepper. Add beef and toss to coat.

In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat butter and oil on high until butter is melted. Add beef and sear on all sides, not stirring too much. Once beef is browned, remove from pot and set aside. Decrease heat to medium and add onion and garlic. Stir constantly, breaking up browned bits from the bottom of pan, until fragrant. | 1 | Return beef to the pan and add red wine. Let cook until wine is reduced by ½ cup. | 2 | Add water through potatoes. Cook on medium heat for 25 to 30 minutes, until beef is tender and vegetables are cooked through.

Divide stew into individual oven-safe ramekins. Cut puff pastry into squares large enough to cover the ramekins, allowing for ample overlapping. Using a small paring knife, cut slits into the pastry. (This will allow steam to escape.) | 3 | Place the pastry squares over the ramekins and press down, adhering to the rims and sides of the ramekins.

Whisk egg and water in small bowl. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush the tops of each pie with egg mixture, making sure not to tear the pastry. Place pies on a baking sheet and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the pastry is brown and crisped. Allow to rest before serving.

The cheaT

Beef PoT Pie

Beef Pot Pie

STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

Chef Cassandra Vires received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

One of my fondest memories from growing up is pot pie night. Each of us kids had our own little pie, and we would all carve our initials into the top crust and watch the pies puff up and brown in the oven. The anticipation was unbearable as my mom pulled them out of the oven but wouldn’t let us take a bite until they had cooled. When we finally cut into the crust, an amazingly aromatic steam would erupt from the flaky pie.

Since our mother was a single working mom, our pot pies came from the freezer section. As I got older and took over the cooking, I decided to make our pot pies from scratch. What a complete disaster! Every surface covered in flour, and my poor little pies just fell apart. I had made an amazing stew but had no “pie” to serve it in. So I got creative: I pulled a box of puff pastry from the freezer and topped each pie with that. It was my very first cheat, if you will.

As with most classic American dishes, the pot pie’s true roots are European. Appearing in our culinary tradition toward the end of the 18th century, that first pot pie was, oddly enough, similar to mine. It was praised for its portability, as people would cook the stew in a large Dutch oven hanging over an open fire, then top it with pastry and carry it to the table.

In America, the most common pot pie is the chicken variety, which I make with spring peas, carrots and mushrooms. There are no limitations with this. Make your favorite stew, soup or braised meat; top it with puff pastry; and bake. A simple homemade family dinner.

COOKING DEMO!Follow along with chef Cassy Vires as she demonstrates

a simpler approach to homemade pot pie. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app

at http://gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

Page 33: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

33Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

| 3 |PH

OTO

GR

AP

HY

bY

Jen

nif

er S

ilve

rber

g

| 1 |

| 2 |

Page 34: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201134

deconSTrucTed diSheS

LAmb & LeNtiLsLamb shanks have an intense, earthy flavor but can be tough as leather if cooked via a dry heat method, such as baking. Searing and then simmering them for a few hours will transform them into meltingly tender morsels, with the connective tissue dissolving into collagen, which gives body to the sauce. Lentils are a traditional French accompaniment to lamb, and in this dish the two work together fabulously. Like its cousin, cassoulet, this braised lamb dish is an ideal restorative food for a long winter.

Gabrielle DeMichele, Nate Bonner and Lucy Schnuck work together to formulate original recipes, brainstorming the best ingredients,

methods and techniques to employ when teaching classes at the Schnucks Cooks Cooking School in Des Peres.

Curious about cassoulet? Get hands-on with chefs Nate and Lucy on Wed., Jan. 19 as they teach you to make this braised lamb dish along with traditional cassoulet and other rustic fare such as wilted-lettuce salad and upside-down caramel-apple pie.

written by Erik Jacobs | recipe by Nate Bonner

cardamomA staple spice in Middle eastern and indian cooking, cardamom has an exotic perfume and pronounced flavor. cardamom can be found in different colors and in different forms – seed pods, extracted seeds or ground – but as with all spices, its whole form offers the best flavor. toasting cardamom lightly before use really enhances and awakens the essential oils that are key to its intensity.

StockMany cooks attest there’s no real difference between stock and broth, especially when making it yourself. However, when purchasing packaged versions, here are some rules of thumb: broth tends to be thinner than stock and seasoned, best in soup or to perk up bland dishes. Stock is lighter in salt or salt-free, but has deeper flavor and more body. Use it for making gravies and as a braising liquid.

Fennel SeedsUsed extensively in Mediterranean and indian cooking, fennel has a profile similar to anise, which has a mild licorice flavor. Fennel seed goes well in a variety of spice rubs and marinades.

JOIN US!

rsvp: schnuckscooks.com

or 314.909.1704

serves | 6 to 8 |

Lamb 6 to 8 baby lamb shanks salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 tbsp cardamom seeds 1 tbsp fennel seeds olive oil 3 carrots, diced 1 onion, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 6 shallots, diced 4 cloves garlic, diced 1 bay leaf 1 sprig rosemary 2 sprigs thyme 2 cups Pinot Noir 1 tbsp tomato paste 2 cups beef stock 8 lamb sausage links

LentiLs 2 cups du Puy lentils, washed well 1 tbsp butter 5 slices smoked bacon, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 3 carrots, diced 1 onion, diced

Braised Lamb Shanks with French Lentils

2 leeks, white parts only, washed and diced 6 cloves garlic, diced 3 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 3 cups turkey stock, heated

| Preparation – Lamb | rub shanks with salt and pepper. toast cardamom and fennel seeds and use to season shanks. cover and refrigerate overnight.

preheat oven to 350ºF. Add oil to stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear lamb shanks well on all sides and set aside. reduce heat to medium. Add carrots through garlic, cooking for 1 minute between each addition. when vegetables are just tender, add herbs and cook 1 minute more. Add wine, tomato paste and veal stock and bring just to a boil.

place lamb shanks in pot. cover and

bake for 40 minutes. reduce heat to 280ºF and continue to bake for 90 minutes. Meanwhile, grill sausages and keep warm until ready to serve.

| Preparation – Lentils | Soak lentils for 3 to 4 hours. preheat oven to 300ºF. in a large sauté pan or saucepan, over medium-high heat, add duck fat. when melted, add bacon and sauté until cooked through but not browned. reduce heat to medium and add vegetables one at a time, cooking a few minutes between additions. After adding garlic, immediately add thyme and bay leaf, stir, cover and sweat ingredients over low heat until tender. Drain lentils and add to pan. pour in hot stock, stir, cover and bake for 35 minutes, or until lentils are tender.

| To Serve | place lamb shank atop bed of lentils. top with lamb sausage and garnish with toasted baguette slice.

Page 35: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

35Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Rob Grimm

Du Puy LentilsThese little gray-green lentils are considered the finest French lentils you can buy. Harvested in the town of Le Puy in the Auvergne region of France, these are AOC-protected by the French government. There are many types of French green lentils, but none so revered as du Puy. Less starchy than others, these will keep their shape and not turn mushy when cooked properly.

Baby Lamb Shanksbaby lamb shanks are very mild in flavor, being generally harvested when lambs are between 6 and 8 weeks old. The shank portions of the lamb are located above the hoof on the front and rear legs, and because these muscles are worked so often, they are tougher and contain more connective tissue than other cuts. braising and stewing are the methods best suited to cooking this oft-overlooked cut.

Page 36: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201136

Page 37: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

37Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 38: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

Homina, Homina, HOMINY!

Page 39: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

39Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

When the flurries are flying and the need to nurture strikes, try turning to hominy for soul-warming, stick-to-your-ribs meals. This ridiculously nutritious, ancient Mesoamerican supergrain is nothing more than a whole corn kernel that has undergone a process called nixtamalization to render it more amenable to human digestion. While this relatively timely process involves soaking the corn in various alkaline solutions in order to remove the outer hull and alter protein structures, through the wonders of modern convenience, all you have to do to enjoy the benefits of hominy is open a can. The following recipes are simple twists on classic hominy combinations.

Red Chile Duck PosoleThe rich, meaty texture of the duck-infused broth blends wonderfully with the piquancy of the chile paste and the chewiness of the hominy. This is south-of-the-border comfort food at its best.

Serves | 6 to 8 |

Chile Paste 5 dried guajillo or ancho chiles* 6 cloves garlic, peeled ¾ medium white onion, roughly chopped 1½ Tbsp Mexican oregano ¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice

Broth 1 lb duck necks** (optional) 2 Tbsp vegetable oil, duck fat or lard 2 29-oz cans hominy, drained and rinsed 2½ quarts chicken broth (packaged low-sodium or homemade) 8 duck legs (skin and fat removed) salt, to taste

Garnishes Finely shredded Napa cabbage Diced radish Cubed avocado Lime wedges Tortilla strips/chips Sliced serrano chiles Chopped cilantro Finely minced white onion, rinsed and drained Duck cracklings

| Preparation – Chile Paste | Remove stems and seeds from chiles. Steep chiles in boiling water to cover until soft, about 20 minutes. Drain, reserving about a cup of the soaking liquid. In a blender, blend chiles with remaining ingredients until smooth, adding soaking liquid as necessary to reach a smooth paste consistency.

| Preparation – Broth | If using duck necks, preheat oven to 500°F. On baking sheet, salt and pepper the duck necks and roast for about 20 minutes, until deep amber in color.

Homina, Homina, HOMINY!STORY AND RECIPES bY Erik Jacobs | PhOTOgRAPhY bY Rob Grimm

Winter is all about comfort food.

Page 40: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201140

Over medium heat, in a large (6- to 8-quart) stockpot, pour enough fat to cover the bottom of the pot. When fat begins to ripple and smoke, pour chile paste into the stockpot. The mixture will spatter, so be careful. Boil 1 to 2 minutes, until thickened.

Add hominy, chicken broth, duck legs and duck necks. Bring to boil, then immediately reduce to a gentle simmer for 45 minutes. Remove duck legs from pot and, when cool enough to handle, pull meat from bones and shred. Discard bones and place shredded meat back in stockpot. Remove duck necks from broth and discard. Add salt if needed, and serve piping-hot with an array of garnishes.

*Look for dried chiles in Latin American grocers or the ethnic section of supermarkets.

** The Asian grocers on Olive Boulevard often carry duck necks, legs, feet and even tongues. Adding roasted necks to the chicken broth amps up the duck flavor of this rich stew.

Hominy and Jalapeño Casserole with Roasted PoblanosThis dish should easily secure a place on your list of go-to winter indulgence dishes. Creamy, rich cheese and butter are combined with a bit of spicy/smoky/vinegary chiles layered atop contrasting textures of chewy hominy and crunchy bread crumbs. Comforting, calming goodness for a bracing winter’s night.

Serves | 8 to 10 as a side dish |

2 poblano peppers 1 stick + 2 Tbsp butter, divided 1 cup whole milk 1 8-oz pkg cream cheese ¼ cup pickled jalapeños, chopped ½ tsp garlic powder 1 29-oz can hominy, drained and rinsed salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 cups bread crumbs

| Preparation | Roast peppers by blistering and blackening skins on a gas burner set at medium-high heat or under a broiler. Place in paper sack and allow skins to steam. When cool, peel charred skins away, discard seeds and julienne into long strips.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Melt 1 stick butter, milk and cream cheese in a saucepan over medium heat, being careful not to bring to boil. Add jalapeños, poblano strips, garlic

powder and hominy and stir to combine. Add salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to buttered 8x8-inch baking pan.

Melt 2 Tbsp butter and combine with bread crumbs. Top hominy mixture evenly with bread crumbs and bake for 30 minutes or until casserole is brown and crispy.

Sausage-n-’Shroom Hominy Hash with Dippin’ EggsHearty breakfasts are a wonderful opportunity to use hominy. This easy-to-prepare skillet dish offers salty, porky goodness together with earthy mushrooms and crispy, rich hominy. Put a heaping spoonful on a hot plate, and top it with a fried egg for a complete meal. Don’t forget the toast, and pass the hot sauce, please.

Serves | 6 |

1 lb breakfast sausage 1 large white or yellow onion, sliced into slivers 1 lb white button mushrooms (or any variety that you enjoy), sliced 1 29-oz can hominy, rinsed and drained 1 Tbsp dried thyme 3 Tbsp butter, divided ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper 8 oz sharp Cheddar cheese, grated 6 eggs toast

| Preparation | In a large sauté pan (preferably cast-iron), sauté sausage over medium-high heat until completely cooked. Remove from pan, reserving pan drippings. Add onions and mushrooms to drippings and sauté until soft and beginning to brown.

Add hominy, thyme, 2 Tbsp butter, salt and pepper, and reduce heat to medium. Allow hominy and onion mixture to become browned and crispy on the bottom, about 5 minutes without stirring. Top with cheese and brown under broiler until melted.

Over medium-low heat, melt remaining butter and fry eggs in 2 batches, making sure yolks remain runny.

| To Serve | Spoon hash evenly onto 6 plates and top each serving with an egg. Serve with plenty of toast for dippin’ into the yolks.

Can you say nixtamalization?

FEAST EXTRA Check out the Let’s Eat section of the Post-Dispatch every Wednesday starting Jan. 12 for more hominy recipes from FEAST!

Page 41: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

41Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 42: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

Written by Scott Thomas | PhotograPhy by Jennifer Silverberg | reCiPeS by Scott Thomas, Greg Thomas and Tom Jones of GrillinFools.com

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201142

Page 43: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

Chillin’ & Grillin’

Hanging out around an open fire when it’s 95 degrees outside doesn’t make sense. Yet summer is prime grilling season for

most. While a few modifications are needed to grill in the off-season, you’ll find that cooking up some cold-weather comfort foods on your

outdoor grill adds impressive flavor and flair to winter dishes.

Winter grilling simply demands that you compensate for the weather, namely cold temperatures and wind, by maintaining the temperature of the grill and extending cooking times. While gas grills and ceramic cookers such as the

Big Green Egg and the Primo hold up better to cold temperatures, we have a few tips for winter grilling with your basic metal charcoal grill.

Page 44: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201144

Be exact. Even if you’re an old pro, eyeballing a fire or judging the temperature by feel is not very accurate, particularly on a

cold day. A probe thermometer doesn’t have to be used strictly for the internal temperature of the meat. It can also be used to judge the temperature of the

cooking chamber. Using a probe thermometer, if your grill isn’t already equipped with a temperature guage, is a fairly inexpensive way to determine the internal temperature of the

grill without opening the lid and losing the heat.

Tighten up your game. Reaching and, more important, maintaining the proper temperatures in your grill are the main challenges. If cold air finds its way into the chamber, you’ll instantly lose

significant degrees. So the first step is to check your grill’s vents. Make sure they aren’t wide-open, which is the winter-grilling equivalent to leaving the lid off.

Add fuel to the fire. Another surefire way to keep up the heat is to periodically add more briquettes or use lump charcoal. Lump charcoal burns faster than standard briquettes, but it also burns much hotter.

Reaching and maintaining the proper temperatures are key.

Prime Rib

Page 45: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

45Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 46: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201146

Keep your lid on. It will be necessary to open the lid at various points to mop, sauce or spray

the meat as well as to add fuel and smoke wood. Each time the lid is opened, heat is stolen away, and it can take anywhere

from five to 20 minutes for the heat to build back up. It’s very important to limit the number of times the lid is opened by doing many of

the maintenance tasks at once. If it’s time to slather the ribs with sauce, check the charcoal and smoke wood at the same time to make sure there’s enough to

last until the next scheduled saucing. If there isn’t, this is the time to add them.

Protect your equipment. At times, tightening up the vents, adding extra fuel and barely opening the lid aren’t enough to keep the temperatures up because it’s just too

windy. On blustery days, consider using a windbreak. Erect a wooden barrier next to the grill, or move the grill to the lee side of the house or shed. The draftier the grill,

the more important it is to protect it from the wind.

Get winter grilling tips straight from GrillinFools’ Scott Thomas at this month’s L’Ecole class. He’ll join chef Matt Borchardt

in the kitchen and teach you how to make grilled flatbread, double-smoked beef brisket and the pear tart from this

article for dessert. Call 314.587.2433 to reserve your space!

The draftier the grill, the more important it is to protect it from the wind.

Pot Roast

Acorn Squash

Meatloaf Shepherd’s Pie

Pear Tart

Page 47: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

47Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 48: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201148

Grilled Acorn SquashServes | 6 |

1 stick butter 2 Tbsp raw sugar ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 2 Tbsp honey ½ tsp ground cayenne pepper ½ tsp cinnamon kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 acorn squash, seeded and quartered

| Preparation | Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add sugar, vinegar, honey, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, salt and pepper and simmer over medium-low heat 1 to 2 minutes. Toss squash in butter mixture, place skin side down on a medium-high grill (approximately 375ºF) and close the lid. Brush remaining butter mixture onto squash every 20 to 30 minutes, cooking until very tender and caramelized, about 45 minutes to an hour depending on the heat of the grill.

roasts from rack and sear them directly over the fire, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Remove rack from pan, place roasts directly into vegetable/broth mixture and simmer until done. Total cooking time should be 2½ to 3 hours depending on the heat of the fire.

Prime RibServes | 6 to 8 |

6-lb standing rib roast, bone-in or boneless 3 cloves garlic, sliced into long slivers 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 16 oz Andria’s steak sauce

| Preparation | Bring beef to room temperature prior to grilling. Using a slender, sharp knife, create a grid of ¾-inch-deep slits, 1 inch apart, on surface of roast and insert garlic slivers. Rub pepper all over the roast.

Prepare grill for flank method with coals on each side and nothing in the middle. If your grill isn’t wide enough, use the two-zone method with coals on one side and nothing on the other. Build temperature to 300ºF to 325ºF. Add soaked hickory chips (pecan or apple can be substituted) to coals and close the lid.

Place roast, fat side up, on roast rack where there aren’t any coals below. Baste every 30 minutes with steak sauce. Add smoke wood and fuel at the same intervals to minimize heat loss from opening the grill. Grill for 20 to 25 minutes per pound. Cooking time should be 2 hours for rare, 2½ hours for medium-rare and 3 hours for medium depending upon the heat of the fire. If an internal probe thermometer is used, the temperature should be 125ºF to 130ºF for rare, 135ºF to 145ºF for medium-rare, and 150ºF

Grilled Pot RoastServes | 8 |

2 2½-lb beef chuck roasts 16 oz Italian dressing 1 cup dry red wine 1 tsp sea salt 2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 4 16-oz cans beef broth 2 cups water, divided 5 lbs red potatoes, cut into bite-size pieces 2 lbs baby carrots 8 celery stalks, chopped 1 lb parsnips, peeled and chopped 3 leeks, sliced and rinsed

| Preparation | Place roasts into a resealable container with Italian dressing, red wine, salt and pepper for 48 hours, turning every 12 hours for even marinating.

Prepare grill for flank method with coals on each side and nothing in the middle. If your grill isn’t wide enough, use the two-zone method with coals on one side and nothing on the other. Add soaked apple or cherry wood chips to the coals and build temperature to 300ºF to 325ºF.

In roasting pan, add 2 cans beef broth, 1 cup water and all the prepared vegetables. Place roasts on a rack, and place rack in center of roasting pan to allow the wood smoke to penetrate the beef on all sides and the drippings to be captured in the pan. Place roasting pan where there aren’t any coals below to cook meat and vegetables indirectly.

Rotate pan and stir vegetables every 45 minutes, adding remaining beef broth and water as needed. Add smoke wood and charcoal at the same intervals to minimize heat loss from opening the grill. After 90 minutes, remove

Page 49: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

49Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

to 160ºF for medium. Allow roast to rest for 15 minutes before carving. Roast will continue to cook while resting.

Pear TartServes | 6 |

¾ cup Marsala wine 5 tsp raw sugar, divided 5 dates, sliced and pits removed 3 pears, cored and sliced 4 oz mascarpone cheese 1 pie crust 1 egg 1 Tbsp cream ½ cup balsamic vinegar 2 Tbsp honey

| Preparation | In small saucepan, combine wine and 2 tsp sugar over low heat. Add dates and increase to medium heat. Cook approximately 5 minutes, until dates start to become tender. Remove pan from heat and remove dates from wine mixture. Add pears to the mixture, tossing to coat. In separate bowl, combine mascarpone cheese and 2 tsp sugar.

Roll out pie crust onto a cooking stone. Arrange pears on the crust, leaving a ¾-inch crust as the border. Scatter prepared dates over pears. Drop the mascarpone cheese mixture by the tablespoon over pears and dates. Fold the border of pie crust up over the pears. The crust will not cover the entire top of the tart. Beat egg with cream, brush mixture onto crust and sprinkle remaining sugar over crust and fruit. Place baking stone with pear tart directly onto a medium grill (approx 350ºF). Cook 30 to 45 minutes, depending on heat of the grill, until crust is golden-brown.

While tart is cooking, place balsamic vinegar into a saucepan over medium heat and add honey. Bring to a low boil, stirring constantly until reduced by half. Remove cooking stone from grill and transfer tart to a platter or board (tart will continue to cook if left on the stone). Drizzle with balsamic reduction sauce and serve warm.

Meatloaf Shepherd’s PieServes | 4 |

Meatloaf 1 lb ground sirloin ½ lb ground pork 1 cup panko bread crumbs 1 egg 1 medium onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 4 oz barbecue sauce 2 tsp brown sugar 1 medium carrot, finely chopped 1 tsp thyme ½ tsp chili powder ½ cup Asiago cheese, grated 1½ tsp salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Mashed Potatoes 3 red potatoes, chopped to equal-size pieces ¼ cup heavy cream 1 Tbsp butter ½ cup Asiago cheese, loosely packed salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

| Preparation | Place all meatloaf ingredients into a mixing bowl and combine. Do not knead meat too much, as the meatloaf will become very dense. Form into a loaf and place in a disposable aluminum bread pan.

Prepare grill for two-zone cooking – coals on one side, nothing on the other. Bring temperature to 275ºF to 325ºF and place soaked pecan or cherry wood chips on the fire. Place the meatloaf on the other side of the grill with probe thermometer in the thickest part of the loaf. Add smoke wood as needed throughout.

While meatloaf is cooking, boil potatoes in salted water until fork-tender. Drain and place in a mixing bowl. Mix in remaining ingredients until smooth.

When internal temperature of meatloaf reaches 110ºF, approximately 60 to 70 minutes, spread a layer of mashed potatoes on top. When the internal temperature reaches 150ºF, remove meatloaf from grill and let rest for a few minutes. Total cooking time should be approximately 90 minutes depending on the heat of the fire. Slice meatloaf and serve with a scoop of remaining mashed potatoes.©ISToCkPhoTo.CoM/NALE - TREE vECToR ART ILLuSTRATIoN

Page 50: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

where FORM meets FUNCTION

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201150

Page 51: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

51Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Just outside the door to her basement pottery studio, tucked

into a well-forested nook in Webster Groves, Yael Shomroni stops me

and offers a word of caution. “I must warn you: This is the cleanest studio

you have ever seen.”

With a huge smile, she escorts me in, flipping lights as she goes. A stark hall and an empty table appear first, but around the corner, a cascade of

blues and greens splashes against immaculate white walls. The colors are dazzling, like brilliant blue waves washing against the white sand of

Netanya, near Shomroni’s native Tel Aviv, Israel. A closer look at the cups, jars and bowls reveals yet another dimension – the rich blue glazing

sparkles in the light, like the sun against the waves.

WrITTeN by Russ Carr | PhoTogrAPhy by Greg Rannells

where FORM meets FUNCTION

Page 52: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201152

“The glaze is my own recipe,” says Shomroni, beaming – her smile far brighter than any of the room’s tiny lights.

Based on the consistently rich tones lining the shelves around us, it’s clearly a recipe she’s tested to perfection. But she’s quick to add that “you never know what’s going to come out when you fire it. I can work all day on a piece but then pull it out of the kiln and” – she throws up her hands – “time to start over.”

Though Shomroni’s work may draw visually from the colors of the Mediterranean, the muse for each project comes from a more down-home source: her own practical needs. “I love to cook, so it starts with the things I need, like an olive oil jug or a holder for garlic,” she says. “I like making different things, and I want people to use them.”

And so, everything Shomroni makes is kitchen-friendly, with a purpose that fills a need, from mugs and pitchers to serving bowls and bakeware. The lone exceptions are decorative bottles and her series of whimsical, cone-roofed birdhouses – a testament to her devotion to living peacefully in her surroundings.

The simple elegance of Shomroni’s handiwork belies the work that goes into making each piece table-worthy, and that’s the other source of her inspiration.

Shomroni custom-mixes her glazes to create a distinct range of blues and greens that sparkle in the light.

Page 53: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

53Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 54: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

“I love to challenge myself. Making practical pottery is part of the challenge. There are so many things I have to consider: the weight of the piece, its balance; the handle has to feel good; the spout should pour well. If it’s a mug, the rim should be smooth. But more than that, the piece has to work aesthetically, not just feel good.”

The most difficult piece would have to be a teapot. They have so many parts, and so many things can go wrong. Particularly the spout, on teapots or the olive oil jugs. They’re so delicate and it’s so easy for them to close up when you’re working with them.”

Shomroni’s vibrant energy while describing the challenges of her art reveals a determination to be as resilient as her creations, and every bit as joyously colorful.

To discover Yael Shomroni’s practical pottery for yourself, visit either Craft Alliance location, in The Loop or at Grand Center in St. Louis, or visit Yael Shomroni Pottery on Facebook.

The real beauty of her work is in the details, such as the delicate handles she

loves making and includes on most pieces.

STEP INSIDE! Visit Shomroni’s studio and watch one of her olive oil jugs take shape. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at http://gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

Page 55: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

55Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 56: January 2011 FEAST Magazine
Page 57: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

57Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Written by Erin Callier | PhotograPhy by Matt McFarland

or a nimble touch of a button, chefs and owners Patrick Thirion and Brandon Case of Peel Wood Fired Pizza in Edwardsville prefer a more hands-on approach. As the name implies, the pizzas at Peel are baked in a hearth that harnesses the heat from a live fire. The pièce de résistance of a partially open kitchen, Peel’s wood oven produces much more than pizza. From chicken wings to pasta to homemade bread, Thirion and Case utilize the wood oven just as any Italian chef would – for as many dishes as possible. “Our oven reaches over 900°F, and our pizzas cook in under 90 seconds,” says Thirion.

A kitchen fixture centuries before the microwave, wood-fired ovens cook food by simultaneously using reflective heat from the flames bouncing off the oven dome, conductive heat from the oven floor and convection from the constant circulation of hot, moist air. The result of this triple threat of heat? A quick, moist and evenly cooked dish that would be hard to achieve with your average modern-day oven.

Bill Cardwell of Cardwell’s at the Plaza in Frontenac and BC’s Kitchen in Lake Saint Louis imported his first wood oven from Italy in 1994.

ALL FIRED UP!WhILE mOST OF uS PrEhEAT Our OvEnS WITh A quICK Turn OF A KnOB

Woo

d ov

en a

t Pee

l Woo

d Fi

red

Pizz

a

Page 58: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

Cardwell would agree that wood-fired ovens are neither culinary relics nor attention-getting novelty appliances. They offer a timeless and relevant cooking method that goes way beyond the pizza pie. “There is no limit to what you can use a wood oven for,” Cardwell says. “If I was going to build a new home, I would design one in. They’re fantastic. It’s the way people used to cook. It’s like heirloom-style cooking.”

“We do all our prepping in our wood-fired oven,” says Mike Randolph, proprietor of The Good Pie in Midtown, which produces arguably the most authentic Neapolitan-style pizza in St. Louis. “Everything tastes better roasted with wood – not just pizza,” ventures Randolph. “We eat very well as a staff using the wood oven to roast meats and whole fish.”

Since 1994, many more St. Louis-area restaurants have opted for the wood-fired oven approach, but for all its culinary benefits, the wood-fired oven has yet to fully break into the St. Louis residential market. An increasingly common kitchen or patio feature on the West Coast, wood ovens are still a rare residential find in the Midwest. Nathan Folkemer, a sales associate at Forshaw in Frontenac, estimates that the store sells no more than 10 wood-burning ovens a year – mainly for outdoor use. “Most of our customers who are interested in wood-burning ovens cook often and intend to use them for pizza or slow cooking,” says Folkemer.

According to Folkemer, the pricing for wood ovens starts at about $2,000. Most U.S.-based wood oven manufacturers or importers are based in California but sell do-it-yourself kits online. There’s also the more traditional option of hiring a local mason to custom-build your hearth. As Cardwell points out, “the concept is basically a fireplace.”

Most chefs would agree it’s simply not possible to achieve the smoky flavor profile of a wood oven with other cooking methods. However, there are some tricks and nifty products that may help you come close. For pizza there is, of course, the pizza stone. If you preheat the stone and amp your oven up to its highest heat setting, the stone will transmit heat directly to the bottom of the pizza, just as the floor of a wood oven does. Another option is a ceramic oven liner. A contraption invented for the sole purpose of emulating the cooking cycle of a wood oven, a ceramic oven liner will harness the three types of heat produced by a wood oven.

Randolph says that before opening The Good Pie, he tried everything to achieve good pizza without a wood-fired oven. The trick that got him closest to wood-fired goodness was certainly clever but should probably come with a disclaimer of the don’t-try-this-at-home variety. “I put my oven on the cleaning cycle and used a baking stone,” he says.

“EvErything tastEs bEttEr roastEd with wood – not just pizza.”

Page 59: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

59Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Oven Roasted Olives

Page 60: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

Beef Short Ribs

¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 quart beef broth 1 12-oz bottle porter-style beer ½ cup top-shelf bourbon salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

| Preparation | Combine chili powder through thyme. Lightly coat short ribs with half of oil and liberally rub with seasoning blend. Sear over a medium charcoal grill or indoor grill on all four sides to lightly char. Remove to tray while preparing braising liquid.

Preheat oven to 300°F. In heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat remaining oil. Add onions, carrot and garlic. Sauté until golden. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Add seared meat. Cover and place in oven. Slow braise until tender, 1½ to 2 hours.

Carefully remove cooked meat from sauce to a serving platter; cover to keep warm. Strain cooking liquid. Discard solids and return liquid to Dutch oven. Skim surface fat while reducing to thicken. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour sauce over meat and serve.

Funghi PizzaBy Mike Randolph, The GooD PIe

Simplicity is the cornerstone of Neapolitan cooking, and this classic pizza is simplicity at its best. Enjoy with an Italian wine and wait for visions of Naples to dance through your head.

Serves | 1 to 2 |

½ lb pizza dough 3 portabella mushrooms 4 Tbsp dried porcini mushrooms 2 tsp balsamic vinegar, or to taste 5 Tbsp fresh mozzarella cheese 2 Tbsp shredded taleggio cheese oregano, to taste olive oil

| Preparation | Preheat conventional oven and pizza stone to 550°F. Roll out pizza dough on lightly floured surface. Clean portabellas and roast for 5 to 10 minutes. Reconstitute porcinis. Combine both mushrooms and season with balsamic vinegar. Dress pizza dough with mushrooms, cheeses and oregano. Finish with drizzle of olive oil. Bake in oven until crust is crisp and bubbly, 6 to 10 minutes.

Dutch Oven Beef Short RibsBy Bill CaRdwell, CARDweLL’S AT The PLAzA AnD BC’S KITChen

Add to the timeless comfort of this dish by serving with blue cheese-bacon-chive smashed potatoes.

Serves | 6 |

1 Tbsp dark chili powder 2 Tbsp kosher salt 2 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbsp smoked paprika 2 Tbsp onion powder 2 Tbsp granulated garlic 1 Tbsp thyme 6 12-oz boneless beef short ribs 1/3 cup salad oil, divided 2 large onions, diced 1 large carrot, diced 2 Tbsp minced garlic 1 cup ketchup 1 cup barbecue sauce

Local wood oven aficionados share some of their favorite recipes with tips on how to achieve the fiery flavor in your home kitchen.

WOOD-FIRED RECIPES AT HOME

Oven Roasted OlivesBy Mike Randolph, The GooD PIe

Wood-fired ovens aren’t just for pizzas or large dishes. The smoky heat can add big flavor to small bites in a flash. Minus a wood oven? Hike up the heat on your conventional oven and enjoy this Italian classic.

Serves | 4 |

1 cup mixed olives ½ lemon, zested with peeler 2 cloves garlic 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 450°F. Rinse olives; toss with lemon zest, garlic and rosemary. Coat with olive oil and roast until sizzling.

Funghi Pizza

Wood oven at The Good Pie

Page 61: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

61Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Wood Fired Lamb ChopsBy Patrick thirion, Peel Wood Fired Pizza

This recipe works best in a wood-fired oven at 650 to 700°F. In lieu of a wood oven, a regular convection or conventional home oven on the highest heat setting can produce good results. With a smaller rack of lamb, this dish would also make a great appetizer or finger food for a cocktail party.

Serves | 4 |

2 1½- to 2-lb lamb racks, cut into individual chops (if you prefer, your local butcher can do for you) 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp lightly chopped, fresh rosemary 1 Tbsp gray sea salt (or to taste) 1 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper (or to taste) 1 cup dry white wine ½ cup Dijon mustard 1 cup 40 percent heavy cream 1 sprig fresh rosemary

| Preparation | Preheat wood oven to 650°F, with fire producing a flame that rolls halfway up the dome, or preheat conventional oven to highest temperature. Preheat a cast-iron griddle in the oven. rub the lamb chops with olive oil, rosemary, sea salt and pepper. evenly space lamb chops on preheated griddle with at least an inch gap between each chop. Cook on each side for approximately 3 to 4 minutes or until medium-rare. remove lamb from oven.

Pour drippings from griddle into a saucepan. deglaze griddle with white wine to loosen all the leftover flavorful bits and add to drippings. add mustard and cream to the pan and bring to boil.

| To Serve | drizzle lamb chops with mustard cream sauce and garnish with rosemary sprig.

WOOD-FIRED RECIPES AT HOME

Peel is adding this dish to their menu for Feast readers! Visit peelpizza.com for the full menu.

check it out!

FeaST exTra

Page 62: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201162

Page 63: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

WRITTEN by S.C. Truckey | PhoTogRaPhy by Carmen Troesser | shoT oN locaTIoN aT The Royale Fine Food and Spirits

Among the hundreds of superstitions and scientific remedies proved to be effective, many hangover fixes are brought to you by none other than the person who gave you that hangover in the first place: your bartender. We sidled up to the bar and chatted with five local seasoned bartenders who shared their restorative recipes, be they bananas, flaxseed oil or beer, and why, for them, they’re worth trying.

GET OVER IT!

63Inspired Food Culture JANUARY 2011

Page 64: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

A Banana and Some BittersBy James Isenberg, Mangia italiano

“What you need is potassium and electrolytes,” Isenberg says confidently. “Try some club soda and bitters; bitters contains electrolytes, and it satiates that desire for more booze but doesn’t get you drunk. And the potassium from a banana is also good. You’re lacking hydration in the a.m., but if you just drink water, you’ll pee it out.”

1 banana 1 club soda with bitters

A Burger ’n’ a ShotBy roxanna ratossa, CBgB

“Tequila or whiskey and a cheeseburger,” says Ratossa, a veteran bartender of 14 years, currently serving up trouble at CBGB. “I’d try the cheeseburger first. And if that doesn’t work, go for the booze. Being hungover is simply a blood sugar issue, so what you crave after not drinking is simply more liquor. It doesn’t go down really well, but it always makes you feel better.”

1 cheeseburger 1 shot

A Good Bloody MaryBy ron KIttrell, Riley’s PuB

Before Kittrell began bartending at Riley’s, he tended bar in Colorado, where people lined up for his Bloody Marys. “A good Bloody Mary should have a lot floating around in it – and you should use that mix that has all the vegetables in it,” he says. “Have one of those and you’ll be back on the road.”

A regular pipes in, “The nice thing about Bloody Marys is that they don’t taste like alcohol.”

Kittrell snickers, “They do when I make ’em.”

1 Bloody Mary in a 16-oz glass boiled shrimp and a celery stalk for garnish

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201164

Page 65: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

A Trip to the Medicine CabinetBy Barrett Brown, Duff’s RestauRant

“Hey, Andy, what would you do for a hangover?” Brown asks a fellow employee.

“Eat a greasy plate of food and then go back to bed,” he says. She glares at him. “Yeah.” Andy shakes his head. “There’s nothing you can do.”

“Have another drink!” someone else chimes in.

A Turkish customer plays along, contributing in a heavy accent, “Tripe soup!”

Brown scoffs at them all, insisting on her restorative concoction that is to be taken before bed, thus responsibly preventing a hangover altogether.

1 tablet vitamin C 1 tablet vitamin D 1 spoonful flaxseed oil 2 aspirin 1 big glass of water

The Suffering BastardBy Marla Griffin, the Royale fine fooD anD spiRits

“For me personally, it absolutely works. Ginger beer is always a good hangover cure on its own, but throw some booze in with it and the pain just vanishes,” says Griffin. She attributes the drink’s restorative abilities to the soothing aromas of the orange and mint, the warmth of the brandy, and the “medicinal dimension” of the bitters. “Combine all that with the fact that it’s served on the rocks in a pint glass, creating the illusion that I am actually re-hydrating, and it’s got everything I need to move on from last night. I usually

drink gin, so if I’m hungover, it’s from gin, and I do believe in the ‘hair of the dog’ theory.”

1 oz gin 1 oz brandy 2-3 dashes Angostura bitters ½ oz fresh lime juice 4 oz ginger beer fresh mint orange slice

| Preparation | Mix gin through lime juice and top off with ginger beer. Garnish with mint and an orange slice. serve tall, in a pint glass, on the rocks.

Page 66: January 2011 FEAST Magazine

feastSTL.com JANUARY 201166

puLL up a chair

Its shape inspired by the geometric structure of a snowflake and its pattern digitally created to reflect a tribal motif, the Nanook chair by Moroso is a modern, multidimensional nod to the history of the Inuit people. Designed to evoke the animal hides worn by these Arctic inhabitants, the Nanook chair brilliantly juxtaposes the natural world with the technological. $707; Unica Home, unicahome.com

written by Erin Callier

Saarinen Dining Table“the chair is the real story here. i think the

Saarinen dining table works well with the nanook chair because the soft curves and understated design of the table balance the sharp angles and bluntness of the chair. this table supplies plenty of style while allowing the chair to take center stage.”

Heather Helms, Interior Elements Design, LLC

$2,775 and up; Hive hivemodern.com

ThE NaNOOK chair

Local designers choose complementary tables to pair with this unique chair:

arch Dining Table/glaSS DeSk“why hide the striking features of the nanook chair when you can appreciate its features at all angles? the Arch table is a classic one-piece design that would highlight the character of the chair with ease. Flexible as a desk, small meeting table or a dining table, the simplicity of the Arch table would be an effortless complement to the nanook chair.”

Carla Hunigan, St. Louis Loft Style

$579, St. Louis Loft Style stlloftstyle.com

conTainer Table“i like the Container table by Moooi for its

simplicity and solidity of form – a perfect contrast to the complex pattern and delicate frame of the nanook chair. Order it in a solid black laminate or a steel base lacquered in white to complement the colors of the chair.”

Renée Céleste Flanders

$4,199 for 63” table; Centro Modern Furnishings, 4727 McPherson Ave. Central West End centro-inc.com

new Yorker Table “i love the contrast of the cast aluminum

base and yew wood top of the new yorker table by Hickory Chair. the solid wood tabletop complements the bold pattern of the nanook chair – allowing a place to rest as you view the decor.”

C.J. Knapp

$3,780; C.J. Knapp Interiors cjknappinteriors.com

Page 67: January 2011 FEAST Magazine
Page 68: January 2011 FEAST Magazine