The exterior and interior details of every home we build

will necessarily be slightly different, based on the layout and location of each home,

as well as each family’s specific needs.

However, the interior quality and the types of details used

need to be standardized so that every Habitat family receives the same high-quality finish

as their new neighbors.

Keeping to a set of guidelines will also ensure that the materials ordered for each home

are used efficiently in the correct locations, and will ensure we do not run out of anything.

Remember: We are quality home builders. We are caring home builders.

But we are not custom home builders.

We provide our families with a starting point: a home with simple, decent, affordable features.

Our families can build and alter these details if they wish

once they purchase their homes.

The purpose of this presentation is to give each leader an overview of all the tasks which will be performed in each unit during this week.

Each individual topic is best assigned to a specific group of volunteers.

Copies of this presentation will be printed and available on site.

This way you can: • Always refer back for specific details, and • Give specific topic pages as handouts to those

volunteers to use while you teach and while they work.

Trim

• Door casing • Baseboard • Shelves • Window sills • Half-wall caps • Closet doors • Attic accesses

Hardware

• Shelf Supports • Door Hardware • Bathroom Hardware

Paint Prep

Topics Covered

Note: We fully case (all three sides) all hinged doors. We do not fully case:

By-pass doors Bi-fold doors Windows

Door Casing

Door Casing

Put a little wood glue at the mitered corners to prevent cracking of the seam.

Reveal should be 3/16”

Casing above carpet areas should be raised 1/2” above floor.

Use at least 2” 16-gauge finish nails to secure thick edge/middle of casing to the jack or king stud behind. Use no more than 18-gauge brad nails to secure thin edge of casing to door jamb to prevent any gaps. .

.

All baseboard in carpet areas should be nailed 1/2” above floor. Have volunteers set each cut piece on 1/2” spacers (scrap baseboard) before nailing.

All baseboard in tile areas should be nailed as tightly as possible to the top of the tile. Push down to slightly bend baseboard to match any slight height differences as best

as possible to minimize gaps.

Use at least 2” 16-gauge finish nails: 2 nails per stud

And 1 nail angled slightly to hit bottomplate midway between studs.

Make sure to hit framing! It may look fine now, but if nails don't hit framing the baseboard will pull away from the wall with time, crack the caulk, and open ugly gaps.

Baseboard Installation

Where two pieces are necessary on a long wall (greater than 16') - Break the pieces on a stud - Cut each end at overlapping 45-degree angles - Use a little wood glue to prevent them from separating - Nail each end into the stud.

Where one piece of baseboard will span a carpet and tile area: - Begin the piece over carpet with a 1/2” gap above floor - Let piece fall gently closer to floor until it rests directly on tile at transition. - It is better to have a piece too low over carpet area than too high over tile.

Baseboard Joints

Baseboard Interior Corners

To install plinth: • Cut ¾” x ¾” stock to 3”

height. • Nail tight to inside corner

using (2) 16ga. trim nails. To install baseboard:

• Measure tight to installed plinth and cut baseboard to 90°

• Ensure tightest fit possible and caulk gap.

Baseboard at interior corners will join by butting into a plinth.

Two outside 45° mitered cuts meeting tightly.

Cut each a 1/16” longer than the wall measurement to ensure they meet as tightly as possible.

Baseboard Exterior Corners

For all bypass and bi-fold closet doors:

Do not install any baseboard on this opening surface.

Measure tight to corner of closet opening.

First cut piece to 90°, then to 45° starting at top of curve.

Baseboard Closet Doors

Install baseboard directly on top of stair stringers.

Remember the stud pattern may change between floors, and there is no bottomplate to nail into.

Baseboard On Stair Stringers

At the top: - Join the stair and floor pieces of

baseboard. - Find the angle by extending each

piece of baseboard, tracing on the wall.

- Mark their intersecting points.

At the bottom: - End the stair baseboard with a

plumb cut flush with the end of the stringer.

- Resume the baseboard at the floor.

Baseboard Connecting to Stairs

Under the dishwasher

Behind the refrigerator

In front of the tub

Behind the range

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Baseboard At fixtures and appliances

Where do we install baseboard in kitchens and baths?

Laundry shelving

Closet Shelving

Pantry Shelving

Shelving Three Types

For all shelving types:

Ledgers

Cleats

• Ledgers should support three sides of each shelf. • If blocking is available: side ledgers should stop just

short of shelf edge. • If blocking can’t be located: side ledgers should run as

long as necessary to hit a stud. • All side ledgers should end in a closet cut (90° and then 45°).

• Install a cleat everywhere a shelf or rod support is required. • Any shelf longer than 48” should have a support.

• Verify the height of the support before cutting and installing cleat.

• Cleat should be 1” longer than support is tall. • Rod supports and shelf supports are different heights.

• Bottom of cleat should be mitered twice at 1” in on each side.

All cleats and ledgers are made from 1x3 MDF material.

Shelving

Number of shelves: 1 Made from: 11” particle board Hardware: Closet rod and support brackets Height: 60” from floor Note: Closet shelf side ledgers should extend past shelf at least 3” to support closet rod.

Shelving Bedroom and coat closets

Each of these corners should be supported by a ‘box’ made of the ledger material.

This box should be a 15” square. It should be composed of 4 pieces MDF ledger stock doubled up, alternating, glued and nailed for strength.

15”

15”

Shelving Master Bedroom Closets

If a master bedroom closet is large enough to install shelving on two or more walls, that shelving will be continuous with one or more 90° corners.

Number of shelves: 4 Made from: 11” particle board (top shelf) 15” particle board (bottom 3 shelves) Hardware: Support brackets if shelf is over 48” long Height: 2’, 3 ½’, 5’ and 6’ from floor

Shelving Pantry and Linen Closets

Number of shelves: 2 Made from: 11” particle board (top shelf) 15” particle board (bottom shelf) Hardware: Support brackets every 2’ in middle of shelf, and Support bracket at end of shelf (if not running all the way to the wall). Height: 54” and 72” Note: In some laundry closets, washers and dryers will be stacked. No shelves are installed in these closets.

Shelving Laundry Rooms and Closets

• All window sills and wall caps will be made from 8” wide MDF. • Be sure not to use particle board (shelving stock).

• All sills and caps will have an apron cut from casing directly underneath.

• All sills and caps will use a roundover rout (on top and bottom); not a table-top style rout.

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Tabletop edges are easily damaged, sanded away, or unevenly filled with paint leaving an undesirable finished look to the material.

Sills and Caps

Window Sills are to be installed in every main floor room (Not in any basement or second-floor rooms).

• Sill pieces will be pre-cut to standard lengths for each size of window

and already routed on three sides. • For example, a 36” window will start with a 38 ½” piece.

• To install the sill:

• Use a sliding T-bevel to find the inside corner angle for each side.

• Measure the width of the opening.

• Cut each side to fit these angles, centering the cuts on the board.

• Sills should have a 1 ¼” wing around the frame. • If the window is slightly wider or narrower than its standard

measurement these wings may be longer or shorter. • Make sure to level the sill using paper shims before nailing it down.

~1 ¼”

Window Sills

• Each sill should have an apron directly underneath cut from casing material. • Cut from 16’ sticks, not 8’ sticks

• Measure and cut each piece to the same length as the window sill.

• Each end should be a 45° cut.

• Install centered under the sill as tightly as possible.

Window Sills Aprons

• Overhang the MDF cap evenly on each side of wall underneath.

• Cut 45° angles on each end to eliminate potential injury points.

• Route the top and bottom of the cap for more comfortable grip.

Half-Wall Caps

The casing for bypass closet doors gets installed first.

• It is a combination of 2x2 lumber and standard door casing.

1) Cut each to fit exactly within the top of the door

opening. 2) Nail the casing to the 2x2 so that the tops and

ends are flush. 3) Using 3” interior screws, attach the 2x2 portion

to top of opening, ensuring to hit the framed header above drywall.

Inside

Outside

Casing

2x2 lumber

Track

Bypass Doors Casing

• Front face of casing should be flush to face of drywall within bedroom.

Casing

Door header, drywall wrapped

2x2 lumber

Bypass Doors Door tracks

Follow all manufacturer’s directions included in each bypass track kit. In addition:

• Mount track so that the back edge is flush to the back edge of drywall.

The door on the back section of track should be installed first, and should be the furthest from

the bedroom door.

This way we see this continuous plane

from the door, not this gap.

Follow all manufacturer’s directions included in each bypass door kit.

In addition:

Make sure to use long screws in top of slider so that they grip the solid portion of door framing, not the hollow core.

Door handles are not included in

track/door pack. Ask staff there location.

They snap into place, which takes some pressure.

Do not use a hammer.

Bypass Doors Doors and Handles

After both doors are installed, close each and check this gap on each side.

Loosen the side screw to allow bracket to pivot, which lowers that side of the door.

When satisfied that the gap is even, tighten side screw and install final (bottom) screw.

To minimize and standardize this gap

from top to bottom of door, adjust the angle

of these brackets.

Finally, install floor guide using at least 2” screws.

Center in opening and ensure guide holds doors parallel to closet door opening

(this is more important than perfectly plumb).

Bypass Doors Adjusting Doors and Finish Hardware

Bi-Fold Doors Installing Tracks and Floor Hardware

Follow all manufacturer’s directions included in each bypass door kit.

In addition:

Door header, drywall wrapped

Casing 2x2

lumber

Construct the same casing piece as with bypass doors, mounting flush to outside of drywall.

Mount track directly to the underside of the 2x2 lumber.

Plumb from center of top track to bottom of door opening and mark wall. Center floor bracket

on this mark.

Use tile bits to drill through tile and install with included

screws.

Bi-Fold Doors Installing Doors and Handle Hardware

In addition: •If door opening is too large, center doors in opening. •If door opening is too narrow, rip edges to fit.

• Always rip outermost edges, as these will never face out even when doors are opened.

•If door opening is too short, rip bottom edges to fit.

Follow all manufacturer’s directions included in each bypass door kit for installing and adjusting doors.

- Use 1x3 ledger around all 4 sides of opening. - Install flush to bottom of ceiling drywall.

- Install casing like on a door, with glue at the mitered corners and a 3/16” reveal. - Install a ¼” wide adhesive insulation strip to the top of the ledger. - This will compress under lid and prevent air/energy leakage. - To augment the glue and ensure it stays, use a few fascia nails to tack it down. - Install a rectangle of ¾”OSB to the back of the drywall lid for rigidity and weight.

- Install hook and eyes centered on lid. - These prevent uplift of the lid during great pressure differences to protect energy efficiency. - Ensure these attach to ¾” OSB, not just drywall.

Attic Accesses

Shelf supports • Closet brackets and rods • Laundry/pantry brackets

Door Hardware

• Door handles • Strike plates • Door stops

Bathroom hardware

• Medicine Cabinets • Towel bars • Toilet paper holders • Towel rings

Hardware

• Each bracket comes with appropriate screws

• Don’t lose them while unpackaging!

•Install short screws into shelving first to help pull the bracket tight to underside of shelf.

• Ensure short screws are long enough to penetrate shelf without protruding through the top.

• Screws may need to be angled slightly to allow drill room to work. Don’t angle too sharply!

•Install longer screws into cleat next, making sure that bracket is pushed tight to cleat with no gaps.

Closet Shelf Supports Brackets for Closet Rods

•Every shelf longer than 48” should be supported by a bracket.

•Brackets should be centered left-to-right on the MDF cleat on the wall. • Push bracket as tight as possible up to the existing shelf.

Closet Shelf Supports Closet Rods

•Rest closet rod over hook in bracket. • Rest each end cap on the ledger to

each side.

•Closet rod comes with appropriate screws • Don’t lose them while unpackaging, but

we do not use included hook hardware.

•Two long screws attach each end cap to the ledger.

• Make sure cap is pushed tightly against ledger to avoid gaps.

• Be careful not to angle screws too sharply.

•The longer end of the “L” points vertically down, the shorter end supports the shelf.

• 11” wide shelving needs brackets at least 8” long. • 15” wide shelving needs brackets at least 11” long.

•Brackets should be centered left-to-right on the MDF cleat on the wall.

• Should be pushed as tight as possible up to the existing shelf.

Every shelf longer than 48” should be supported by a brackets every 48” Any open-ended shelf (one which has no side ledger, but is open to the

room) should have a bracket at its end.

Closet Shelf Supports Laundry / Pantry Supports

•Install short screws into shelving first to help pull the bracket tight to underside of shelf.

• Ensure short screws are long enough to penetrate shelf without protruding through the top.

• Screws may need to be angled slightly to allow drill room to work. Don’t angle too sharply!

•Install longer screws next, making sure that bracket is pushed tight to cleat with no gaps.

Closet Shelf Supports Laundry / Pantry Supports

•Each bracket comes with appropriate screws

• Don’t lose them while unpackaging!

Follow all manufacturer instructions included with each knob.

• Including Up/Down orientation

Turn all machine screws by hand.

• Do not risk over-tightening or stripping the head of the screw.

Drills may be used on wood screws.

• But still be careful not to over-tighten or strip the head of the screw!

Test every door handle before walking away.

• From the outside, with your tools handy, in case it sticks shut.

Install privacy knobs on all bathroom

doors and the master bedroom door. Install passage knobs on all

other interior doors.

Door Knobs

• Always ensure that one screw in the top hinge of the door has been replaced with a 3-inch finish screw.

• Otherwise, the door will sag in its opening over time.

• Always install door knob before strike plate.

• Ensure striker is oriented correctly and door knob functions correctly before closing door.

• Close door and sight through gap at striker to see where in the jamb’s bore the striker actually sits (high, in the middle, or low).

• Set strike plate to match this height.

• You may need to trim excess paint from mortise in order for strike plate to fit tightly.

• You may need to trim a tiny amount of wood from around the mortise in order to match an unusually high or low striker.

Door Knobs Installing Strike Plates

Hingepin • Use where baseboard doorstops are not

possible or not practical. • Always use in pairs; one at top and one at

bottom hinges. • Always adjust each to be in sync and to stop

door two inches from touching closest surface.

Baseboard • Use wherever possible and practical. • Mount flush to bottom edge of baseboard

curve. • Do not oversink screw; doorstop spring will

not fit between wall and plate.

Always test the doorstops before you walk away!

Doorstops

•Install 24” cabinet : 20” from vanity top 36” cabinet : 12” from vanity top •Center cabinet over vanity top and under light bar.

• Where vanity top is tight to wall on either side, ensure that medicine cabinet door edge is at least an inch away from wall so it can be opened.

•Use 3” Phillips pan or truss head screws • Commonly sold as white “cabinet screws”

•At least four screws per cabinet. • Ensure all hit framing. • All screws should go through reinforced backing at top and bottom of cabinet.

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Medicine Cabinets

•Unpack and install all shelves. • Make sure not to lose any shelf

supports while unpackaging!

• Install: 24” from floor

• If mounting on drywall: • Ensure both brackets are attached to

framing • If necessary, use metal toggle bolt

attachments • Do not use plastic screw pieces included

with kits.

• Where possible, mount to side of vanity base.

• Spring-loaded bar should not be compressed when installed,

• It should fit snugly into both brackets while under no tension.

Bathroom Hardware Toilet Paper Holder

Towel Bars •Install: 50” from floor

•Ensure both brackets are attached to framing • Check for studs or blocking

•If necessary, use metal toggle bolt attachments • Do not use plastic screw pieces included with kits.

•Center on walls as best as possible.

Towel Rings •Install: 24” from vanity top

•Ensure both brackets are attached to framing • Check for studs or blocking

•Center over vanity top as best as possible. • Do not mount so close to medicine cabinet that it interferes

with opening doors.

Bathroom Hardware Towel Bars and Rings

Use caulk (+ silicone):

• Painted trim to painted trim

• Painted trim to wall/ceiling

• Window flanges to window well drywall and sills – careful not to smear it onto the flange!

Use silicone:

• Painted trim to tile

• Counters/vanity tops to wall

• Counters/vanity tops to tile

Paint Prep