instruction˜and˜operation˜manual˜ · about the electra-jet’s wood parts the wings and...

Instruction�and�operation�manual�

The All Electric Jet

Version 3.1

01-02-2009

3481 State Road 419 • Winter Springs, FL 32708 USA

tel. 407-327-6333 • fax. 407-327-5020

BOB VIOLET MODELS

Electra Jet Instruction and Operation Manual

INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................................................................1

WARNING........................................................................................................................................................... 1 DISCLAIMER ...................................................................................................................................................... 1 PERMA-GRIT AND SOME OTHER USEFUL TOOLS....................................................................................... 2 TOOL LIST.......................................................................................................................................................... 2 ABBRIEVIATIONS USED IN THIS MANUAL..................................................................................................... 3 WARNINGS ........................................................................................................................................................ 3

GENERAL ASSEMBLY TECHNIQUES.................................................................................................4

THINK LIGHT...................................................................................................................................................... 4 ABOUT THE PACKAGING................................................................................................................................. 4 ABOUT THE ELECTRA-JET’S WOOD PARTS ................................................................................................. 4 TRIAL FITTING PARTS...................................................................................................................................... 4 GLUE, ZAP AND BVM AEROPOXY .................................................................................................................. 4 GLUING TECHNIQUES...................................................................................................................................... 5 GLUE CHART..................................................................................................................................................... 5 MOLDED CARBON FIBER PARTS ................................................................................................................... 5 FILLER MATERIAL............................................................................................................................................. 5 RADIO EQUIPMENT WARNING........................................................................................................................ 6 ABOUT BUILDING ELECTRA’S WOOD WING AND STABILIZER................................................................... 6 A FLAT BUILDING BOARD AND GOOD CRAFTSMANSHIP ........................................................................... 6 THE BUILD-OVER PLANS................................................................................................................................. 6 SERVO-OPERATED LANDING GEAR.............................................................................................................. 7

WING CONSTRUCTION........................................................................................................................8

PART PREPARATION........................................................................................................................................ 8 WING STRUCTURE........................................................................................................................................... 8 TOP WING SKIN APPLICATION ..................................................................................................................... 10 WING STRUCTURE (Continued) ..................................................................................................................... 11 FLAP HINGES PREPARATION ....................................................................................................................... 13 BOTTOM SKIN AND GEAR BAY COVER INSTALLATION ............................................................................ 14 LANDING GEAR AND STRUT DOORS........................................................................................................... 16 STRUT DOORS................................................................................................................................................ 17 FLAP AND AILERON CONSTRUCTION ......................................................................................................... 19 PARTS ORIENTATION .................................................................................................................................... 19 FINAL WING CONSTRUCTION....................................................................................................................... 22 AILERON SERVO COVER............................................................................................................................... 23 BALSA SKIN SANDING.................................................................................................................................... 24 WING MISCELLANEOUS................................................................................................................................. 24

STABILIZERS ......................................................................................................................................25

CONSTRUCTION ............................................................................................................................................. 25 ELEVATORS .................................................................................................................................................... 26

FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION ............................................................................................................28

FIBERGLASS PART PREPARATION.............................................................................................................. 28 SUBASSEMBLY CONSTRUCTION ................................................................................................................. 31

NOSE GEAR DOORS ...................................................................................................................................... 35 NOSE DOOR ACTUATION .............................................................................................................................. 37 INLETS AND FAN MOUNT .............................................................................................................................. 38 STABILIZER LOCATION.................................................................................................................................. 38 WING MOUNTING............................................................................................................................................ 38 WING / STABILIZER ALIGNMENT .................................................................................................................. 38 SECURING THE WINGS.................................................................................................................................. 38 ELEVATOR CONTROL .................................................................................................................................... 38 VERTICAL FIN.................................................................................................................................................. 38 RUDDER SERVO INSTALLATION .................................................................................................................. 38 VERTICAL FIN INSTALLATION....................................................................................................................... 38 MAIN GEAR RETRACTION ............................................................................................................................. 38 LINKAGE INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT.............................................................................................. 38 NOSE GEAR DOOR AND RETRACT.............................................................................................................. 38 BOTTOM HATCH ............................................................................................................................................. 38 ENGINE HATCH............................................................................................................................................... 38 CANOPY HATCH ............................................................................................................................................. 38 FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION MISCELLANEOUS......................................................................................... 38 COCKPIT AND CLEAR CANOPY .................................................................................................................... 38

FINISHING YOUR MODEL – GENERAL GUIDELINES......................................................................38

FIN TO FUSELAGE FILLET ............................................................................................................................. 38 GEARING UP ................................................................................................................................................... 38 RECEIVER LOCATION DX7 ............................................................................................................................ 38 RECEIVER BATTERY...................................................................................................................................... 38 LANDING GEAR FINAL CHECK...................................................................................................................... 38 EVF AND BATTERY INSTALLATION.............................................................................................................. 38 INSTALLING THE TAILPIPE............................................................................................................................ 38 CONTROL TRAVEL AND CG .......................................................................................................................... 38 FIRST RUN AND TAXI TEST........................................................................................................................... 38 FIRST FLIGHT PROFILE ................................................................................................................................. 38

SERVO TYPE.......................................................................................................................................38

LEAD EXT............................................................................................................................................38


BVM © Page 1 4/27/2009

INTRODUCTION The BVM Electra Jet represents the leading edge of electric ducted fan technology coupled with an airframe designed specifically for the BVM EVF (Electric VioFan) and battery combination. The factory prototype airframe and power plant was extensively tested and tuned to give maximum performance from an electric ducted fan.

WARNING The BVM Electra Jet is offered to you in this completely engineered and flight-tested format. Please give serious thought before trying to modify or “improve” any facet of this power and airframe package.

This model is designed to safely operate with our Electric fan unit, speed controller and

recommended batteries only. Any deviations, modifications or changes to any of the power unit components could lead to damage of these components. We highly recommend that you read and study carefully all of the instructions that come with this model and the propulsion unit itself.

Even though this is an electric powered model, its performance exceeds that of glow-powered ducted fans. Indeed the BVM EVF unit is an incredibly powerful unit and should be operated and handled with care. Along with the high performance of this model comes the responsibility for its use.

DISCLAIMER Bob Violett Models Inc. assumes no liability for the operation and use of these products.

The owner and operator of these products should have the necessary experience and exercise common sense. Said owner and operator must have a valid Academy of Model Aeronautics license.


BVM © Page 2 4/27/2009

PERMA-GRIT AND SOME OTHER USEFUL TOOLS Perma-Grit tools are sold in the USA by BVM. These are very high quality, tungsten carbide grit abrasive tools that will make your modeling easier.

TOOL LIST 2-56 tap

4-40 tap 2-flute

.050 Hex Driver, BVM part #2157

Perma-Grit small files BVM part # NF-1

Large files are also handy (#LNF-1)

(2) X-Acto Razor Saw #235

X-Acto #27 saw blade

Carbide Cutters (5/pk) BVM #2142

Set of ball end hex wrenches

Dremel drum sander

Dremel #409 cut-off discs and mandrel

A good set of small Phillips and Flat Blade

screwdrivers

12" steel ruler with 1/10th inch scale

#43 ( .089”) 4-40 tap drill

A set of small drill bits

Pin vise to hold 1/16” drill bit

Perma-Grit cut off Disc RD-2

Perma-Grit FXT-1


BVM © Page 3 4/27/2009

ABBRIEVIATIONS USED IN THIS MANUAL CA cyanoacrylate adhesive L.E. leading edge SHCS socket head cap screw T.E. trailing edge SMS sheet metal screw F/G fiberglass SHSS socket head set screw CG center of gravity FUSE fuselage P-P poly-ply ELE elevator CF carbon fiber C/L centerline alum aluminum RUD rudder AIL aileron SHSMS socket head sheet metal screw L.C. laser cut BHSMS button-head sheet metal screw BHMS button-head machine screw BHCS button-head cap screw

WARNINGS Use a particle mask such as 3M#6985 (available at auto paint supply stores) to protect from inhaling the glass or carbon fiber dust. Use this mask whenever you are sanding or cutting fiberglass or carbon fiber materials.

Use a professional charcoal filter paint mask (also available at auto paint supply stores) when spraying any primer or paint. Spray out of doors or in a properly vented spray booth.

Use safety glasses any time rotary tools, such as Dremel #409 disc or Perma-Grit cutters, are being used.


BVM © Page 4 4/27/2009

GENERAL ASSEMBLY TECHNIQUES

THINK LIGHT Extra glue, extra paint, extra resin will add up to a heavy model. Since 75% of the area of the model is behind the CG, a heavy model will only get heavier with the addition of nose weight.

ABOUT THE PACKAGING The individual parts of your model have been packaged according to assembly groups. Labels on the plastic bags identify each group of parts. A “Parts ID” sheet is included with your plans to help you locate specific parts within the various laser cut sheets as well as individual pieces. ABOUT THE ELECTRA-JET’S WOOD PARTS The wings and horizontal stabilizer of the Electra Jet are of all built-up construction. In most cases the parts can be identified on the plans. The 1/8” ply parts have small tabs that hold the parts in their sheets and can easily be cut through with a razor knife to free the parts. Handle these parts carefully as the building tabs also have small tabs that hold them in place but allow them to be broken away after construction. If a tab breaks away, it can be glued back into position using ZAP-A-GAP TRIAL FITTING PARTS BVM makes every attempt to insure that the parts in our kits have the best possible fit. However, due to manufacturing tolerance accumulation, some parts may fit a little tight. Always trial fit parts with mating parts and if necessary adjust the part perimeter with Perma-Grit hand tools. GLUE, ZAP AND BVM AEROPOXY You can help protect your investment in the model by using high quality adhesives such as the ZAP products from Pacer Technology. Through experience we have found these adhesives to be the best available to modelers, therefore we refer to them in this manual. Low quality glues deteriorate with time and could render the model unsafe.

For extremely high stress areas, such as the wing and tail mounting former to fuselage joints, BVM is making available to you a thixotropic, slow cure, aerospace grade, 2-part epoxy system we have dubbed “AeroPoxy.” It is the strongest and best gripping adhesive we have found. Always squeeze a small amount from the nozzle into a waste bin when first starting to apply the glue or if the nozzle has not been used for more than a few minutes. The BVM Vpoxy can be used in place of AeroPoxy. It cures in half the time.


BVM © Page 5 4/27/2009

GLUING TECHNIQUES Except for bare balsa and plywood, scuff all mating surfaces to be joined with #80 grit paper. This gives “tooth” for the glue to form a mechanical bond. Clean off all excess glue - no globs or puddles - excess glue is excess weight. For laser-cut plywood parts, use #80 grit paper to scuff the burned edges of these parts before applying glue. AeroPoxy/Vpoxy is best applied using an auto mix nozzle. Most applications can be accomplished with the 3-inch nozzle. Small, no nozzle hand mixes can be used where appropriate. Once applied in a bulkhead-to-fuse joint, use a finger or cotton Q-tip to make a neat smooth fillet while removing any excess glue. Puddles of glue add weight and do not contribute to strength. Always check the outside skin of the model to look for any glue residue and remove it with Isopropyl alcohol before it cures. These Epoxies are tough to remove once it has thoroughly cured. GLUE CHART Surfaces to be joined Glue preferences epoxy glass to epoxy glass .....................ZAP CA, epoxy, AeroPoxy/Vpoxy balsa to balsa ..........................................ZAP CA plywood to balsa......................................ZAP-A-GAP poly ply strips to fiberglass ......................ZAP-A-GAP carbon fiber to wood................................ZAP-A-GAP carbon fiber to fiberglass .........................ZAP-A-GAP, AeroPoxy/Vpoxy composite formers to fiberglass ..............AeroPoxy/Vpoxy plywood formers to fiberglass..................AeroPoxy/Vpoxy hardwood to plywood ..............................AeroPoxy/Vpoxy

CAUTION: USE ADEQUATE VENTILATION FOR ALL GLUING PROCEDURES. IF YOU ARE SENSITIVE TO CA GLUES, USE THE ODORLESS VARIETY.

MOLDED CARBON FIBER PARTS Alignment pins, Carbon Blade spars, etc. should be scuffed first, then glued to with a thin bead of

Zap-A-Gap, then mechanically trapped with AeroPoxy/Vpoxy lapped over flanges.

FILLER MATERIAL Use sandpaper to prepare the surfaces for filler.

Surfaces to be filled Filler material preferences Balsa……………………………...hobby spackling fiberglass………………………….micro-balloon/resin mix or polyester glazing putty such as Evercoat #400


BVM © Page 6 4/27/2009

RADIO EQUIPMENT WARNING STOP!!! Electric powered ducted fan models require special attention to reduce and eliminate electronic noises that can interfere with Radio Control. If the model is operated with 72 Mhz equipment, you must use the proper techniques, RF filters and an external antenna. A list of the recommended servos and corresponding output arms can be found in the back of this manual in addition to the plans. Always center and install the correct output arms while on the bench, once the servo is in the aircraft access to the servo arm screw is sometimes limited. Warning!! Damage to your transmitter module may result if the radio system is used on the bench for an extended amount of time with the antenna down. BVM uses a “Shop module” which is used for aircraft setup; this module never leaves the shop. NOTE: This does not apply to the Spektrum system BVM recommends using the Spektrum DX7 radio equipment to control your EVF powered model. BVM stocks this equipment.

ABOUT BUILDING ELECTRA’S WOOD WING AND STABILIZER The Electra Jet’s wood wing and stabilizer have been designed using the latest in computer technology. Every piece has been scrutinized for fit and strength as well as ease of assembly to make building these assemblies a pleasure. However to ensure a properly built wing or stabilizer section you must adhere to a few basic rules of good modeling.

A FLAT BUILDING BOARD AND GOOD CRAFTSMANSHIP A flat surface is required for an accurate wing and stabilizer structure. The factory models are built over an Armstrong 2’ x 4’ ceiling tile (available at Home Depot or similar stores) laid on top of a solid core door, glass plate, foam, etc. A simple 36” metal straight edge can be bought for around $20.00 and would be a good investment if you don’t already have one. Use the straight edge to ensure that you are dealing with a truly flat building surface. When building a wood structure it is always best to trial fit, inspect and double check before gluing. Like the old saying goes “measure twice but cut only once”. You may want to read through this manual and study the plans before beginning construction to ensure your success.

THE BUILD-OVER PLANS Included with the kit is a separate set of drawings for both the wings and stabilizers. These are the build over plans and can be identified by the diamond shaped lines at the front and back of the rib sections. Because the majority of the ribs for the wing and stab are made from ply, pinning parts to the board is unpractical. Use an X-Acto knife to cut out the diamonds; the ribs can then be ”Zapped” directly to the ceiling tile.


BVM © Page 7 4/27/2009

SERVO-OPERATED LANDING GEAR

An all-electric model that utilizes the BVM carbon fiber/aluminum servo operated units. These units have been recently upgraded in strength and function. Two JR 791 servos are excellent for the task. The struts axles and wheels shown are for a “no brakes” grass field operation. This configuration provides the lightest undercarriage installation. BVM’s home field is a 700’ x 40’ paved runway that is usually crosswind. Option 1 (without brakes) works well there. The EVF can be switched off (throttle trim down) for the final flare and landing affording no residual thrust.


BVM © Page 8 4/27/2009

WING CONSTRUCTION NOTE: The wings are built right side up on top of the build-over drawing. The correct washout is already designed into the building tabs.

PART PREPARATION

Remove all of the pieces necessary for the wing construction from the laser cut sheets. Use a BVM Scuff board to clean up the edges.

Lay right wing build-over plan (P-2000 – 1) onto building

surface and make sure to cut away diamond sections. Tape in place.

Begin by using #80 grit sandpaper to lightly, but

thoroughly scuff both sides of all of the carbon fiber blade

spars. At this time you will only need (2) of the 5.7”, (1) of the 14 -1/8”, and (1) of the 11-1/2” Blade spars.

Use the plans as a guide to laminate the two 5.7” blade

spars, one onto each end of the longer carbon spars using slow CA. Make sure that the alignment top and bottom correct.

Identify (2) 3/8” x ½” x 3.5” maple hardwood blocks. Scuff

one side of the maple blocks with #80 grit paper to allow for better adhesion, then as before, with the plans as a guide, CA the maple blocks into position on the Blade Spar assemblies. Be sure to get the positioning correct as shown at right.

WING STRUCTURE Identify Ply Ribs R4 and R4A. Laminate with ZAP-A-GAP.

You will note that R4A is slightly smaller on the outside than R4; this is to account for the wing taper. Ensure that the ½” square spar slots are aligned.

Identify Ply Ribs R1 thru R5 along with the two blade spar assemblies and the LC 1/8” balsa positioning spar.

Begin by first sliding the ply ribs onto the blade spars in sequence. You do not have to do this directly on top of the plans but do use the plans to help approximate their position.

You can now use the balsa positioning spar, inserted into the rib slots from underneath to begin to align the structure. Place this structure over plans but DO NOT GLUE anything.

Attach the balsa L.E. and T.E. into position to further align the wing structure.

Make sure that the maple blocks are extending thru R3 and R4 as shown here and on the plans. (Rib R5 omitted in photo for clarification)


BVM © Page 9 4/27/2009

With the structure in place over the plans, make sure that the alignment of all of the pieces is correct and that the ribs are perpendicular to the building board.

NOTE: It is very important that all of the ribs, especially R1 are perpendicular to the building board. To accomplish this, we use a perfectly square, steel machining block, which also has enough mass to hold the structure in place. These steel blocks are called “1 2 3 blocks” and are available from machine shop supply stores. A small building square also works well.

With the wing structure aligned, use ZAP-A-GAP to carefully tack the building tabs to the board. You do not have to tack every single tab, just enough to ensure the structure doesn’t move around and that it is firmly attached to the building surface.

NOTE: In the following steps you will begin to glue the structure but do not (as yet) glue any part of R1 to the wing structure. You may however tack it to the building board to hold it in place. Also keep in mind that the area between R3 and R4 is where the flex plate will sit and you do not want large fillets of glue to get into the way there. In the following steps, use just enough glue to hold the structure together until the final steps. Later BVM AeroPoxy will be used to fully and completely join the structure.

Ensure that the L.E. is straight and true then use ZAP-A-Gap to tack it to the ribs. Do not tack R1. Check alignment of the T.E. then tack the ribs to it.

CA the rest of the ribs-to-blade spar joints but do not make big fillets – just enough to hold things together for now.

Place ribs R6 thru R9 into position over the plans and ensure that the wing is running straight and true over the plans and sitting squarely on the building surface.

Use Medium CA and laminate ply R6A onto the outside of balsa R6. The cutouts in R6A orient up. As before, the outer rib’s profile is slightly reduced for wing taper. Also note the rearward positioning to allow for wing sweep.

Tack the ribs to the surface where necessary with ZAP-A-Gap and then to the L.E. and T.E as before.

Assemble the flap servo and it’s mount and install into R4A. Use the diagram on the Wing Detail Plan (P 2000) to see an exploded view with details. We recommend a JR 9411 for flap operation.

Trial fit balsa ribs R8A and R8B into position. Use a razor saw and a sanding block to sand the angle at front and rear to get a good fit. Use ZAP-A-GAP to glue into position, tick marks up. A drop of CA on the tick marks will make them less fragile to handle.


BVM © Page 10 4/27/2009

R1 will be in contact with the wing root and fillet of the

fiberglass fuselage. In order to get a good fit, R1 must be perfectly straight from front to rear. To ensure this, use a straight edge, then when aligned, use ZAP-A-GAP to tack it to the Carbon Blade Spars. Make sure that it is also perpendicular to the building board.

Place a section of the 1/8” x 1/4” x 28” balsa spar into

position within the rib slots and ensure that it aligns properly, (leaving enough height for the .014” carbon fiber laminate). Cut the spar cap flush at each end, then glue into position with medium CA.

Use SloZAP to glue a section of the .014” x ¼”

Carbon fiber to the top of the spar cap as shown right. Trim the edges to shape

Use long sanding block to face off the aft surface of

the TE. Check straightness with a long straight edge to obtain a flat surface. Attach the 1/64” ply TE with medium CA.

TOP WING SKIN APPLICATION The Electra-Jet’s .093” balsa wing skins are cut slightly oversize. This is to allow you to sand all of the edges perfectly flush to the wing structure. In addition, the grain is aligned parallel to the wing’s L.E. This helps keep the curvature of the skin the same as the wings surface. To help establish the curvature, we spray an ammonia-based window cleaner onto the OUTSIDE forward third of the skin and rub this into the grain. After sitting about a minute, this will cause the skin to curl at the front to better conform to the airfoil.

With the wing structure still attached to the building board, use a long sanding block to carefully block sand the assembly. The longer the block the better. Use the block to span the outer balsa ribs between ply ribs R9 and R5 and keep the block oriented with the sweep of the wing. The majority of the sanding will need to be at the L.E and T.E.

Since the wing is built right side up, you will need to locate one of the wings’ top skins (without cutouts). Trial

fit over the structure taking note of the position that allows overhang all around the wing structure. NOTE: BVM recommends using Pacer’s SHEET-ZAP to apply the wing skins because it’s time-to-cure and adhesion properties are perfectly suited to the Electra-Jet’s wooden wing structure. If you prefer, an aliphatic resin glue such as Elmer’s Carpenter glue or Tite-Bond will also work well.

Spray the outer surface of the top skin with an ammonia-based window cleaner as described above when you are ready to begin applying the first skin. Set aside for the next step.

Apply your adhesive in a small bead working steadily

from end to end. We start at the inboard rib and work our way out leaving the L.E. and T.E. to the very last.

Carefully place, the skin into position on the wing

structure, aligning it as before.

Optional Perma-Grit is handy


BVM © Page 11 4/27/2009

Starting at either the front or rear, apply pressure

along the entire length of the wing using a long straight object such as the sanding block as shown here. If using CA, you can apply “Kicker” to begin the curing process.

Working a little at a time begin to press the block

towards the other side of the wing’s structure ensuring that the skin is in contact all along the way. Continue to apply pressure until all of the glue is cured. It may be helpful to have another set of hands

for this.

After it is thoroughly dry, remove the wing structure from the building board. The building tabs can now be broken away.

NOTE: With only one side of the wing skinned at this time, the wing may bow slightly. This bow will be removed when applying the second skin later.

WING STRUCTURE (Continued)

Use ZAP-A-GAP CA to affix ¼” x ¾” balsa sections, (cut to length from 36” stock provided) to the wing cradles to create a footing through which you can pin the cradles to the board as shown. Position the wing onto the cradles and pin everything to the board. Be sure to orient the wing cradles correctly, refer to PARTS ID SHEET and WING BUILD OVER plans. The ticks on the cradles go on the forward end.

Glue bottom 1/8” x ¼” balsa spar into position in ribs and onto the balsa positioning spar and trim flush at ends as before, then laminate with .014 x ¼” carbon strip. NOTE: Make sure the carbon strip does not protrude above the ribs, as this will cause a bump in the skin.

In preparation for installing the molded carbon flex

plates, trim and sand away the small protrusions on one side of each edge of a flex plate. This will allow the flex plate to sit flush on top of maple rails and carbon blade spars. IMPORTANT: Check orientation of flex plate to determine which edges to trim. See plans.

Place carbon flex plate into position and drill holes for

#4 x 3/8 sheet metal screws (SMS).

Align cradles to wing T.E.


BVM © Page 12 4/27/2009

Install 1/8” carbon alignment pin into hole at front of R1. Use thin or medium CA for now, later you will reinforce with BVM AeroPoxy. Make sure edge of alignment pin is flush with R1’s surface

NOTE: The aileron servo location is set up specifically for the JR 3421. When installed using the supplied BVM flush servo mounts and then positioned on top of the servo base, the output arm is in the correct position and the servo itself is below the cover plate.

Install 1/16” Ply Aileron Servo Base next to R6A. Use a mixture of epoxy and milled fiber or micro-balloons. IMPORTANT: Do not press the base plate and wing skin together, rather allow the base plate to lie on top of the epoxy mixture to cure. This will keep the wing skin from having a protrusion on the outside surface.

Use the diagram on the plans to install the servo into

the flush mounts as shown. Epoxy the servo mounts into position making sure you have good contact with servo base and ply R6A.

Locate one sheet of the .093” shear webs. Begin

placing shear webbing between ribs using medium CA. Shear web #1 goes between R1 and R2 and the rest follow suit. You may find that some light sanding is in order for a better fit. The numbers should be oriented to the top of the wing i.e. they will be upside down as you install them here from the bottom.

The #4 shear web which fits between ribs R4 and R5

will need to be trimmed to allow the passage of the front carbon fiber blade spar (see plans).

From the ½” x 1” x 18” balsa block cut (2) pieces to 1– 3/8” long. Trial fit these into position in front of T.E. at the flap hinge locations. A slight bevel will need to be sanded into the top and bottom face of the hinge block to allow for fitting between the wing skins. Make sure your hinge block sits flush to the trailing edge. And use ZAP-A-Gap to secure in place.


BVM © Page 13 4/27/2009

From one of the 3/8” x ¾” x 36 balsa stock, cut the four aileron hinge blocks that are to be located in the wing. For the outer hinge blocks you will need to angle them as before to allow fitting between the wing skins. Use medium CA to secure into position.

DO NOT install hinges until the model is painted.

FLAP HINGES PREPARATION The flap hinges supplied with your Electra Jet are made from carbon fiber. The smooth operation of your flaps depends upon the hinges being set up and installed properly. In addition, this type of hinge allows for the use of a concealed flap horn for activation.

Use a pair of side cutters to cut away each hinge section from the tree that holds them together. Use a BVM scuff board to clean up the edges.

Tap the pivot hole with a 2-56 tap, then assemble the

hinges using four (4) 2-56 x 3/16” BHCS. First, screw a BHCS all the way into one of the halves until it is tight. Then, thread another halve (correctly oriented) onto the screw. When tight together, back the hinges apart just enough to have free movement for about 50º.

IMPORTANT: Once installed, the hinges will not unscrew so you do not need to get a longer bolt and a nut. You will however, need to orient the hinges for each flap in a similar manner. Study the plans to see how they will be installed in pairs. Keep in mind that the hinge blocks that go in the flap will be offset laterally from the blocks in the trailing edge of the wing somewhat and that both pieces of the trailing edge have cutouts for the hinge. These cutouts are necessary at the T. E. where both sides of the hinge come together at the center.

Use a hinge as a guide to draw an outline on a hinge block long enough to put the center of the hinge at the back edge of the T.E. The slot need only be deep enough to have the hinge lay flush at the top as shown. Use an X-Acto knife and flat Perma-Grit file to form the hinge slot. DO NOT glue hinges at this time.


BVM © Page 14 4/27/2009

Use BVM AeroPoxy or Vpoxy to final glue the interior structure. Apply to all blade spar-to-ply ribs joints, around all hinge blocks, and the alignment pin. IMPORTANT: Be sure that you do not glue the flex plate to anything; it is designed to be removable.

Use SLOW-ZAP to reinforce all wood joints within the

wing.

Use a long sanding block (#80 – #100 grit) just as before and carefully block sand the bottom of the wing structure in preparation for the bottom wing skin.

IMPORTANT: the addition of extra glue or glue fillets not specified here does NOT increase strength; it will only increase dead weight.

BOTTOM SKIN AND GEAR BAY COVER INSTALLATION

Cut away the balsa gear bay structure from the bottom wing skin. Use a sanding block to square up the perimeter of the skin and the cover.

A 1/8” square hard balsa frame will be glued to the wing skin around the entire gear bay perimeter. Cut the supplied 1/8” square stock to length and glue it flush with the outer wing surface as shown. Use Litebond glue (or equivalent) so the joint can be easily sanded flush.

Trial fit the bottom skin making sure to leave a little

excess around all the edges. The gear bay opening should be squarely centered over the gear bay structure by aligning the inboard edges of the hard balsa liner with the center of the joint between the carbon blade spars. Make a few pen marks inside the gear bay on the ribs to help locate the skin after applying glue to the ribs.

Attach the bottom skin in a similar fashion as you

used to attach the top skin. Make sure that the wing is sitting squarely in its cradles and you do not bow the wing with too much pressure.

Identify the 1/8” ply gear bay retainer and install onto

the inboard side of rib R2 using (2) 3/8” #2 BHS. Place masking tape onto the rib and lightly coat with Vaseline to keep from gluing the retainer to it in the following steps.


BVM © Page 15 4/27/2009

Trial fit the balsa gear bay cover into the opening to make sure it fits snuggly. Use a sanding block to sand any areas necessary to allow approximately a 1/32” gap around its perimeter.

Be certain to make a left and right panel.

The polyply panels must first be sanded and scuffed on both sides.

Use a piece of smooth cardboard such as a paper pad

backing to facilitate the sanding process. Hand sand the obvious scratches and other flaws with #320 paper. Then scuff with a 3M 7447 pad until the polyply surfaces is fully dull.

Identify the side of the polyply that is to be laminated to the balsa; bits of tape will do here.

Work on a wax paper covered surface to apply finishing

resin to both sides of the balsa frame. Use a dabbing action to thoroughly coat both sides of the balsa.

Use (2) pieces of fresh wax paper to facilitate the lamination. Use the wheel well cut out area to carefully align the balsa to the polyply. Weight down with magazines and allow to cure.

Check the perimeter of the polyply for resin residue and scrape off with a razor.

Bevel this edge (Arrow) to allow for strut door action.

Glue (9) of the 1/8” ply disk tabs into position on the underside of the framework with medium CA (see plans for proper locations).

IMPORTANT: Do not allow more than .125” of any of the tabs to protrude beyond the edge of the BALSA framework.


BVM © Page 16 4/27/2009

Install the gear cover by first placing it about ½” offset to the

inboard end of the wing as shown. Then place the rear tabs under the hard balsa liner and push the cover back until the back edge of the cover is all the way back. Then bow the cover up just enough to slip the forward disk tabs under the forward edge on the gear bay. Now the cover can be slid outboard engaging the outer disk tabs.

Make sure that the cover fits snuggly all the way around. If

there is a tight spot, remove the cover and sand the appropriate disk tab. Make sure not to sand too much of the tab away as this can cause a loose fit.

LANDING GEAR AND STRUT DOORS The following steps detail the installation of the BVM mechanical main gear as described in the beginning of this manual as Option 1. The parts included in your kit for the strut door are designed specifically for this gear option.

Make left and right main struts by first cutting them to proper length, the struts then silver soldering the brass upper fittings and BVM axles as shown on the wing plan. IMPORTANT NOTE: The distances from the coil to the top of the brass fitting and from the coil to the axle are crucial for the proper fit and operation of the gear.

Install the retract unit using four #4 x 3/8” flat head screws.

Place the strut into the retract unit and tighten the cinch bolt at the base to retain it.

Install the gear bay cover and make sure that the strut passes through the opening without interference.

Place a 2.25” tire onto the axle and with the gear in the extended position; adjust the tire to have approximately ½ - 1 degree of toe-in, then retighten the cinch block.

Retract the strut and make sure that the tire, as well as the

coil and strut, fits through the opening. Move the cover and trim as necessary to obtain clearance.

NOTE: The factory prototypes operate with Dubro 2.25” main wheels and have been flown off a typical grass field without any problem. The wheel wells, gear bay cover and strut doors are all designed for 2.25” main wheels.


BVM © Page 17 4/27/2009

STRUT DOORS

Use a sanding block with #80 grit to straighten the edges of the gear bay cover until the 1/8” ply strut base fits with approximately a 1/16” gap all the way around as shown.

Use a single 4-40 x ¼” BHCS to attach a poly ply

outer strut cover and the ply strut door to the retract unit as shown but do not glue the door parts together at this time.

Pull the strut up tight against the ply while holding the

strut door firmly against the surface of the gear bay cover and feel around the perimeter of the polyply noting any high areas that need to be made flush.

Remove the strut door parts and use a BVM Scuff

Board to add a slight taper to the front and rear edges of the ply door and where ever necessary to allow the poly ply cover to seat flush to the surrounding surface.

NOTE: You will see that in order for the gear to extend and retract, the strut door assembly must slide through the opening in the gear bay cover and then into the area within the retract unit itself, behind the pivot mechanism. To accomplish this, you must sand a slight bevel at the base of the ply to allow the polyply cover to pass underneath.

Use a #80 grit sanding block to taper the last ½” of the ply strut door down approximately 1/32”.

Reinstall the strut door pieces and while pressing the polyply down against the tapered end of the ply, check

to see if the polyply passes beneath the gear bay cover’s surface when you extend the strut.

If it will pass beneath the surface of the gear bay cover but go no further, you may need to sand the edges of the polyply slightly to allow it to pass into the retract chassis. When a good fit is achieved, remove the poly ply cover leaving the ply attach to the retract with the 4-40 BHCS.


BVM © Page 18 4/27/2009

With only the ply section of strut door attached to the

retract, extend the gear making sure to keep the wire strut and door aligned. Place one of the nylon straps into position as shown and drill through the ply strut door with a 1/16” drill bit. Do only one side at a time.

Install one of the #2 x 3/8” DSMS through the nylon strap and tighten into the ply strut door.

Retract the strut to ensure the ply door is still aligned

then drill through and install the second screw.

Use a #409 Dremel cut-off wheel to cut away the excess screw length on the outside of the strut door. Be sure to grind it off below the surface of the ply strut door just slightly.

Use #220 grit sandpaper to lightly scuff the inside of

the poly ply strut door cover.

Remove the 4-40 screw and reinstall the poly ply strut door cover, then replace the 4-40 screw.

Lift the edge of the poly ply at the bottom of the strut an apply a small amount of ZAP-A-GAP, then press the poly ply and ply strut doors together and hold until cured.

Remove the 4-40 screw and the #2 x 3/8” screws

holding the door on, remove the door and use thin ZAP to wick in around the edges of the ply. Use pressure where necessary to hold the poly ply down onto the tapered edges of the ply strut door.

Reinstall the tire and strut door, check for smooth operation and fit throughout the struts range of motion.

With the cover in position, carefully tack glue it to the 1/8” ply cover retainer using medium CA.

Remove the screws from the retainer and then

remove the cover from the wing in the same manner as you used to install it.


BVM © Page 19 4/27/2009

Once off the wing, reinforce the glue joint with

AeroPoxy and cut away the bottom portion of the retainer at the tick marks. This will allow the cover to bend easily for installation and removal.

NOTE: In normal operation, the wing will need to be slid away from the fuselage slightly in to allow enough room to remove the bottom cover as described above.

NOTE: Close fitting doors are important to efficient, low drag flight. If the strut gets bent and the door does not close flush, the resulting drag can be heard on a fly-by and of course the speed of the model is degraded.

FLAP AND AILERON CONSTRUCTION The flap and aileron for each wing is built together as a single unit then cut apart. This ensures that the washout designed into the wing is maintained. In addition, the flap/aileron assembly is built upside-down over the plans. On the wing build-over plans you will notice that there are rib markings behind the trailing edge to help you align the ribs. You will build the right flap and aileron over the left wing build-over plan and visa versa for the left flap and aileron.

PARTS ORIENTATION IMPORTANT: The ribs for the flap and aileron have small “tick” marks on one edge. These marks indicate “UP” (as in) “towards the top skin”. The 1/8” balsa flap L.E. has two (2) cutouts along its length for the flap hinges; therefore these cutouts are “DOWN” (as in) “towards the bottom skin. The aileron L.E. has no orientation for top or bottom as it is symmetrical and is correct as long as the big end is inboard. All of the aileron and flap skins (top and bottom) are the same size.

Position the left wing build-over plan on your (flat and true) building board making sure the flap and aileron section is accessible.


BVM © Page 20 4/27/2009

SAND THE SKINS FIRST. On a flat surface, sand

both sides of all four flap/aileron skins with #220 grit. You may designate the “inside” of the sheets if you wish by sanding the outside to a better finish. The idea is that once the skins are in place, sanding is not necessary. Make sure not to sand through the outer ply veneer.

Lay one of the skins over the left aileron and flap

drawing with the finish-sanded side down.

Locate all of the ribs for the aileron and flap and one (1) aileron L.E. and one (1) flap L.E.

Place the outboard rib of the flap next to the

segmented break line. Bring the flap L.E. into position at the front as shown in the first picture (above right). Make sure that the rib is vertical and tack the pieces to the skin and each other with thin CA. Be sure of the parts orientation.

You can use a piece of scrap 1/16” balsa as a spacer

to set the inboard aileron rib next to the flap rib you just installed. Use thin ZAP but make sure you don’t glue the spacer in place. This spacer will set the ribs at the edge of the break line. Install Aileron root rib and LE in same manner as flap.

Use the build-over plans as a guide to install the

remainder of the ribs. You may want to use medium CA to reinforce all of the joints but always think “light”.

The hinge and control horn blocks for the flap and

aileron are made from the same material that you used to make the hinge mounting blocks for the wing. Cut and position the blocks and install with ZAP-A-GAP. Bevel each piece to fit between the skins.

Hold the aileron and flap assembly in place along the

wing’s T.E. to mark the exact location for the flap hinges. Make cutouts for these pieces now to ensure a good fit.

IMPORTANT: The position of the flap control horn block is dictated by the flap servo position. Keep in mind that servo output for the flap operation needs to be symmetrical, i.e. both servos push or pull at the same time, unlike the ailerons. Use a reversed servo or JR Matchbox if necessary. Determine your correct flap servo positioning before installing the flap control horn blocks.

When you have determined the correct location for the flap control horn, cut a length of the ½” x 1” balsa stock for the control horn block and shape to fit but do not glue yet.


BVM © Page 21 4/27/2009

Study the “flap servo detail” drawing on the wing

detail plan. Notice the shape and position of the flap control horn in the side view. The idea is to have the horn as close to the top skin as possible and still allow freedom of movement.

Trial fit the control horn and its block into the flap.

Make a cutout in the wing T.E. and test fit the flap to ensure that the horn clears. You may need to trim the shape of the carbon control arm to achieve a proper fit.

When you are sure of the horn position, you can

install the control horn block but do not install the horn itself for now. Make sure that you have all of the internal structure installed and properly glued. Ensure that none of the blocks are protruding above the ribs, as this will cause a bulge in the bottom skin.

Now you can attach the bottom skin using SHEET – ZAP.

Trim away any excess material and use a razor saw

to separate the flap and aileron. Use a sanding block with 100 grit to clean up the edges.

Identify the ¼” balsa aileron L.E. Use medium CA to

attach it to the aileron.

Block sand all of the edges flush, then bevel the L.E. approximately 25 degrees as shown on the plans.

Cut slot in bottom of aileron to install the control horn,

use the supplied 1/8” horn locater to position the horn. (See Aileron servo detail on the wing detail plan). Do not glue the aileron horn into position at this time. Glue in AFTER finish is applied to wing.

After beveling the aileron’s L.E. use the precut hinge

slots in both the aileron and wing as a guide to deepen the slots into the balsa hinge blocks within the wing and aileron using an X-Acto #27 saw blade. Center the aileron L.E. top to bottom relative the wing T.E. adjust hinge slots as necessary. Do not install hinges or control horns until after the model is painted


BVM © Page 22 4/27/2009

FINAL WING CONSTRUCTION

First cut to length, then Install a 3/8” x ¾” balsa L.E. into position using ZAP-A-GAP. Sand the ends flush at the root and tip

Use a razor plane on both sides of the L.E. to

carefully block the leading edge to the general shape and contour of the wing’s sheeting.

Use a #100 grit sanding block to follow up. At this

time you are just continuing the contour of the top and bottom surface of the wing as shown.

Attach the 1/32” ply tip rib to R9 along with the (3) tabs located within the wingtip template using ZAP-A-GAP. Make sure the tabs extend out no more than ¼ inch as shown.

Begin final shaping of the LE with a razor plane then use a long sanding block to finish the shape using the ply tip rib and root LE template as guides. Be sure not to sand into the tip template.

Use a long straight edge to check the straightness of the

LE from tip to root.

Laminate the 1/32” ply wing tip template between the ½” and ¼” thick balsa wing tip halves. The ½” thick section is installed on top - be sure to make a left and right wingtip.

Lightly block sand the inboard edge of the wingtip

assembly with #80 – #100 grit paper for a flush fit to the end of the wing.

Temporarily mount the aileron and flap back onto the

wing and check your alignment and make any changes necessary

Trial fit the wingtip into position checking to see if it fits

flush and square. The 1/32” ply tip template must lie in the same plane as the aileron TE. Make adjustments if necessary then, with the aileron in place to ensure fit and alignment, attach the tip with medium CA.

Use a razor plane to rough-shape the balsa. This can be

followed up with an #80 grit sanding block using the ply tip rib and wingtip templates as a guide to final shape the balsa.


BVM © Page 23 4/27/2009

Make sure that all hinging and control horn locations

are correctly installed and their operation and activation is smooth. You may want to temporarily install the servos to ensure the output arms and control horns are in line with each other. Make pushrods for flap and aileron control from supplied materials using diagrams on plans.

Separate the aileron from the flap using an X-acto

razor saw. Sand the end surfaces square.

AILERON SERVO COVER

Remove the balsa servo cover from the .093” wing skin and lightly sand the edges of it, and the aileron servo opening. Laminate a .010” polyply cover onto the outside of the balsa cover with the pushrod exit holes aligned. Use medium CA.

Locate (2) 1/8 x .55 x 1.35” Baltic ply tabs. Install one onto

the forward edge of the servo cover and the other underneath the back edge of the wing skin as shown at right.

Place the cover into position and drill through the cover at

rear center as shown with a 1/16” drill bit. A #2 x ¼” BHS secures the cover.

BUILD THE SECOND WING. When you have completed

this first wing, repeat all of the previous steps to build the other wing.


BVM © Page 24 4/27/2009

BALSA SKIN SANDING

The variances in balsa grain, hardness and glue joints will cause a slight waviness in the outside surface of the wing and stabilizer skins. Rib and spar protrusions and even glue shrinkage add to the uneven surface. Because the skins are 3/32” thick, there is enough material, combined with the techniques shown here, to achieve a smooth flat surface.

First, feel the problem areas with your fingers to determine where the highs and lows are.

The important tools are a flat sanding block and sharp (fresh) sandpaper. Make a sanding block that is ¼” thick x 4” x 6”. A flat piece of ¼” 5-ply aircraft ply will work.

Contact glue #80 grit sandpaper to one side and #180 grit to the opposite side. Note: If you build a lot of models like we do, you can purchase 3” wide rolls of 3M “Fre-Cut adhesive-coated sandpaper at an auto paint store.

Use light pressure and a circular and diagonal (to the grain) action to cut down the high spots with the #80 grit. Keep feeling the surface until it is near perfect. Now, switch to the #180 grit for the final surface before the finish is applied. Caution: Too much sanding that thins the skins to less than 1/16” will induce more waves.

Keep checking the contour of the wing surface to see that it blends into the aileron and flap. When satisfied with the contour, separate the flap from the aileron with an X-acto razor saw. Sand the opposing surfaces square.

WING MISCELLANEOUS

Chamfer the inboard ends of the CF blade spars to ease entry into the wing mounting channels.

The inboard end of the flap must be trimmed on the top to clear the fuselage.

WING REINFORCEMENT Apply carbon fiber cloth to the inside of the balsa skin above the retract unit. This may save a wing repair in the case of a very bad landing that fractures the flex plate or the retract unit. Use the carbon cloth provided to cut two sections that fit between ribs R3 and R4.

Use the same resin as used to apply the glass cloth. Pacer’s “finishing Resin” works well.

Brush the resin on the inside of the wing sheeting between R3 and R4. Place the cloth into the wing cavity to best cover the area, pushing it fore and aft with the brush.

Wet the center section of the cloth and smooth out

any wrinkles. Use a paper towel to soak up any excess resin.

Brush a coat of resin onto the skin between R1, R2, and R3.


BVM © Page 25 4/27/2009

STABILIZERS CONSTRUCTION The stabilizers are built similar to the wings in that they are built upright over a “building plan” on their own building tabs and nearly all of the parts have jig tabs. The same steps are used to build both right and left hand stabilizers and elevators.

Locate the build-over drawing for the stabilizers and position the right plan on the building board. Cut out the rib attachment diamonds.

Identify all of the parts for the stabilizers. You may want to

use a BVM Scuff Board to clean up any rough areas on the parts. Be careful when handling the small 1/16” ply ribs as the tabs are designed to be able to break away easily after primary construction, but must be in place to build upon.

Place 1/16” ply ribs S2 thru S6 onto the 1/8” ply stabilizer

spar then place this assembly on top of the build-over drawing.

Use medium CA to “tack” glue the tabs of a few select ribs

to the building board to hold the assembly in the correct position.

When set, you can tack the ribs to the spar with CA.

Ribs S1 and S7 can now be glued into position. Make sure

to keep them perpendicular to the building board and correctly oriented over the plans.

Check the alignment at the front and rear of the structure

in preparation for the 1/8” Balsa L.E. and T.E. pieces. Use a BVM Scuff Board to bevel the front of the ribs slightly and then install the L.E. and T.E using ZAP-A-GAP.

The ¼” Balsa hinge blocks can now be installed. Make

sure to keep the blocks centered and use a plane or sanding block to taper the balsa where necessary.

Use #80-grit sandpaper to thoroughly scuff the carbon

blade spar and install into structure by sliding thru S3 down. Leave approximately ½” protruding beyond S3.

Lightly tack the spar in position using medium CA and

avoid making large fillets.

Install the carbon fiber alignment pin as shown using CA.


BVM © Page 26 4/27/2009

Locate and install 1/8” ply parts S8 and S9 and glue to the carbon spar and surrounding framework using ZAP-A-GAP

Carefully block sand the top surface of the structure with

an #80 grit sanding block. Be careful not to over sand the balsa L.E. and T.E. pieces.

There are (4) .093” stabilizer skins; they are all the same

size, slightly larger than the structure to allow for sanding. Since there is not much curvature to the stabilizer structure, you may not need to pre-bend the skin with ammonia.

Using Sheet-Zap, glue a stabilizer skin to the structure and

allow to fully cure.

Carefully remove the structure from the building board and break away all of the building tabs then block sand the bottom of the structure.

Inspect all of the joints to ensure that they are properly

glued. You may at this time choose to apply BVM AeroPoxy to the blade spar-to-wood structure joints. If you do, keep it light, just enough to do the job.

Using a sanding block, sand the edges of the first skin

flush to the structure and make sure it is ready to accept the bottom skin.

Use Sheet-Zap to attach the bottom skin. When cured,

sand its edges flush to the structure.

Use medium CA to attach the ¼” balsa L.E.

ELEVATORS

Laminate together the 1/32” core and two ¼” balsa halves of the stabilizer tip and elevator. Set both aside until after shaping of the L.E.

As with the wing, block sand the ends of the balsa L.E.

flush with the root and tip of the stabilizer.

Block sand the root of the stabilizer tip assembly so that it will sit flush to the tip rib. Temporarily install the elevator into the stabilizer at the controls-neutral position. Make sure to get the 1/32” ply centered at the L.E. and at the trailing edge. Also the 1/32” tip core must lie in the same plane as the elevator core.


BVM © Page 27 4/27/2009

Use a razor plane to bring the tip to its rough shape then use a block for final shape.

To begin shaping the elevator, first place it in position at the back of the stabilizer making sure to get it centered. Use a pen to trace the shape of the T.E. onto the front surface of the elevator top and bottom. On each end of the elevator use these top and bottom marks to make connecting lines to the back edge of the 1/32 ply elevator core. This will show you the outline of the elevator of three sides – the back is shaped all the way down to the ply core.

Use a razor plane to shape the elevator. When you get close, place the elevator at the back of the stabilizer to check shape. Use an #80 grit sanding block to final-shape the elevator.

Cut hinge slots into stabilizer trailing edge with an X-Acto

#27 saw blade, trial fit the elevator to make sure it lines up. Make adjustments to hinge slots as necessary.

Use a 5/32” drill to make a hole for the elevator torque rod

using the slot in the 1/32” ply core as a guide. You will also need to cut a small groove in the LE of the elevator to allow the torque rod to lie flush with the LE.

Glue elevator torque rod into position using Vpoxy.

NOTE: Early kits have torque rods with brass sleeves on them. These sleeves serve no purpose on the Electra Jet. Epoxy them to the elevator’s L.E. as shown below.

Refer back to wing section for final sanding of the stabilizer, L.E., tips and skins.

Do not install hinges or control horns until the model is

painted.


BVM © Page 28 4/27/2009

FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION The fuselage construction begins with cutting out and finishing all of the various access openings, lightening holes and slots in the fuselage and other fiberglass sections. To accomplish this task, you will need some simple tools. Below is a list and description of the necessary items. Whenever cutting or grinding on fiberglass parts you should wear a particle mask and eye protection such as described at the front of this manual. To make the task of preparing the fuselage with all of it’s intricate cutouts easier, it is recommended that you use the correct tools for the job. In the following steps you will be required to cut holes of varying shape and size. Some of the cutouts will require an initial, or “rough” cut followed by a slight finishing of the area being cleared. Using the right tools makes the job go much smoother. Below is a picture of the tools we have found to work best.

[1] Razor saw – Use when a perfect straight line is required such as for the bottom hatch cover and nose gear doors. (2) Razor saw*, (blade only) – Use in conjunction with the razor saw, this will allow you to cut perfect corners to removable panels and doors. (3) 1/8” carbide cutter – This bit works great to quickly cut through fiberglass, but only for “rough” cuts. (4,5 & 7) These Perma-grit and Dremel bits are used to “clean up” edges and corners. (6) Cutting disk – This tool is also a “roughing” bit but gives you the ability to cut a straight line quickly – Works great for cutting out the canopy opening. (8,9 &10) Perma Grit files (flat, round and pyramid) Use these tools to get precise angles and corners. *NOTE: Grip the saw blade in a vise and pull the handle off with a pair of pliers, then grind the dimples off. Wrap one end with masking tape.

FIBERGLASS PART PREPARATION

Begin by cutting out the holes at the base of the vertical fin. Use a carbide cutter to “rough” in the holes then finish up with the appropriate tool: A drum sander for round holes and corners and Perma Grit flat and round files for slots and small holes.

Cut out the openings for the Stabilizer spar and alignment

pins, use the 1/8” carbide cutter and Perma Grit files.

Use the scribe lines at the wing root to remove the lightening holes, spar slots and forward alignment pin openings. As before, use the 1/8” carbide cutter to cut inside the lines and then a drum sander and Perma Grit files to “finish” the holes.


BVM © Page 29 4/27/2009

Make the cut-outs in the vertical fin using the scribe lines but do not cut away the rudder at this time.

Cut and clear away the forward edge of the engine hatch opening using the scribe line as a guide. Use a drum sander to smooth all of the corners around both the engine and canopy hatch openings.

Use a BVM scuff board to clean up the long straight

edges of the hatch openings to ensure there are no rough spots.

Study the plans and note where the various

bulkheads within the model are located. Use #80 grit sandpaper to thoroughly scuff the entire inside of the fuselage, paying special attention to the areas where bulkheads are to be located. In addition, you will need to scuff the areas of the bottom hatch and nose gear doors. It is much simpler to accomplish this now before cutting these sections away.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The nose gear doors are cut away from the fuselage as a single unit. The front, or strut door is cut to length after installing the nose retract bulkheads in the “Nose Gear” section.

Place masking tape along the edges of the scribe lines on the bottom hatch and nose gear door opening. (NOTE: The nose gear door is “framed” by scribe lines only at the corners, you can use a straight edge to draw lines for placing the masking tape.

Using the tape as a guide, pull the razor saw in one

direction to begin to score the surface of the fiberglass. After a few passes, you can begin a sawing action to cut through the fiberglass. Cut one side then the other, then cut the front and rear lines. Do not cut into the corners until the majority of the cutting is complete. This will hold the part in place while you work, making the job easier.

With all but the corner cuts complete, use the razor

saw (blade only) to cut to the corners as shown.

Use these same techniques to cut away the bottom hatch. Put these sections aside until required later.

Use a cutting disk (# 6 on page 29) to carefully cut

slots for the canopy hooks, (4 locations) and polyply engine hatch tab slots (also four locations).

Use the small flat Perma Grit file to finish up the (4)

canopy hatch slots. When installing the hatches later, small adjustments to these slots may be required.


BVM © Page 30 4/27/2009

Cut out the small opening at the back of the engine hatch. Use a 1/8” carbide bit and Perma Grit flat file. Note: Disregard the small square above this location. Cut the hole to the scribe lines shown.

Make sure that the inside of the fiberglass fuselage

directly behind the cutout you just made is thoroughly scuffed, as you will be installing a piece of material there later.

To install the clear canopy, cut away the fiberglass

section using the cutting disk first, then follow up with a drum sander and scuff board making the edges clean and smooth.

After cutting and sanding the canopy opening, use

80-grit sandpaper to scuff the inside edges in preparation for installing the canopy later.

Cut out the engine hatch openings using a

combination of the 1/8” carbide bit and cutting wheel, finish up with a drum sander and scuff board.

Trim away the aft inside edge of each of the inlets;

there is a scribe line for this on the inside of the inlet lip. Be sure to cut the deeper recess into the spinner cavity as shown at right.

NOTE: It is very important to wrap each of the intakes with carbon BEFORE the two halves are joined.

Scuff the exterior of the intakes with #80 grit sandpaper

Mark left and right inlet 3.75” ± 1/4” from the forward

edge with a pencil line. Locate the 8-foot section of carbon cord supplied with the kit and cut it into two equal lengths. Tack one end of the carbon at the correct location on an intake section with thin CA then wrap the cord at least three times around. Hold the cord then tack the 3rd wrap end in position. Cut away excess. To saturate the CF cord with thin CA, step out-of-doors or use an exhaust fan. Rotate the duct to allow the CA to run around the cord. Use a very light mist of kicker. Use #80 grit sandpaper to deburr the now stiff CF cord wraps.

Use a scuff board to sand the seam on the inlets

5/16” from the rear edge to achieve a good inlet to EVF shroud fit.

Trim forward edge of intake lip as shown to get a good fit onto fuselage inlets


BVM © Page 31 4/27/2009

SUBASSEMBLY CONSTRUCTION The Electra’s internal structure was designed such that most of the construction and gluing of parts done outside the model in a separate, or modular fashion. Once completed, these separate sections are installed at the same time while also mounting the main wing and tail assemblies. For this reason it is necessary to have the completed wings and tails available at this time. The vertical fin construction will occur later in this parts assembly process. IMPORTANT NOTE: PARTS ORIENTATION – Bulkheads F4, F6, F7 and F10 (See Parts ID plan sheet), all must be oriented within the fuselage correctly. Each of these parts has a “tick” mark on one side. This mark must be on the right-hand side of the model. TAIL MOUNT

Lightly scuff one side of the .010” poly ply doubler and laminate it onto the FRONT of F10 using ZAP-A-GAP medium CA. (Picture at right showing “tick” mark at pencil’s point).

Use diagram on plans to drill elevator pushrod holes into

former F10. This must be done before F10 is installed in the model.

Turn F10 over and glue F10A into position using medium

CA, F10 is tabbed for proper orientation. This assembly can now be set aside.

ELEVATOR SERVO MOUNT NOTE: SEE ADDENDUM AT THE BACK OF THIS MANUAL. The factory Electra Jets use JR 3421 (Mini) servos on elevator. Included in your kit, on laser cut sheet LC028; we have included elevator servo mounts (F7A) for two sizes of servo (Mini and standard size). You must make a decision as to what size servo you will install for elevator before proceeding.

Glue the servo screw doublers, (located within the F7A parts themselves) onto the back of F7A, then glue the F7A Assemblies onto F7. Be sure to get all pieces oriented correctly as shown in photo at right.

Install the servos into position. Make sure that the output

shaft of the servo is oriented to the FRONT of the model. MAIN GEAR RETRACT SERVO MOUNT

Laminate the two (2) F5 Retract Servo mount formers together using ZAP-A-GAP. Be sure to get the lightening


BVM © Page 32 4/27/2009

holes aligned correctly. NOTE: The servo mount brackets will be installed later. WING MOUNTING BULKHEADS The wing mounting bulkheads, front and rear, are comprised of plywood formers F4 and F6, the carbon fiber doublers and the (4) wing plug-in channels. IMPORTANT: Please note that F4 and F6 need to be oriented correctly with the “tick” marks to the right. Make sure when gluing parts together that the front and back of these parts is determined ONLY after orienting F4 and F6 correctly.

Locate the (4) 6-32 steel inserts and (4) carbon fiber wing plug-in channels. Press one of the inserts into each plug in channel from the back – small end first, as shown at right. The channels are symmetrical so it does not matter which hole you place the insert into.

Included in your kit is a single 6-32 flat washer, use this

and one of the 6-32 SHCS to thread into the insert from the front and tighten until the insert is fully seated into the carbon fiber plug-in channel. Complete all (4) channels the same way. After this, the 6-32 flat washer has no purpose

Use #80 grit sandpaper to scuff the back of the Carbon fiber doublers, then glue them into position on F4 and F6 carefully aligning the tops of the formers with their corresponding carbon pieces using medium CA. Study the picture at right to get the orientation correct. The carbon doublers go on the FRONT of F4 and the REAR of F6

Turn the spar assemblies over and use the laser cut holes as a guide to drill through the carbon pieces with a #43 or 3/32” bit. Next, tap all (16) holes for 4-40.

Position the plug-in channels on the spar assemblies with the 6-32 threaded insert on the inboard end. Attach each of the plug-in channels to the assemblies with (4) 4-40 x 5/8” SHCS


BVM © Page 33 4/27/2009

Install the 6-32-x ¼” SHCS into the rear spar’s (F6) threaded inserts and the 6-32 x ½” SHCS into the front spar’s (F4) threaded inserts.

FAN MOUNT

Glue the F3A formers to F3 using ZAP-A-GAP. Cut a length of the ¼” triangle stock to fit into the junction as shown.

Relieve the triangle stock as shown to allow the forward end of the fan shroud to seat onto F3. Use the shroud as a pattern to shape the cut.

Attach the four (4) F3B formers to the outside surfaces of F3A as shown using ZAP-A-GAP.

From the ¼ x ½ x 7” Basswood, cut two (2) sections to fit to the sides of F3A and on top of the F3Bs. Use medium CA to tack the formers together, then add epoxy to the underside seam where the motor mount is tilted slightly. This tilt matches the 5º angle of the EVF flange mounts.

Place your EVF onto the mount, centering in the large opening. Drill and tap the four mounting bolt locations for 4-40 making sure that the fan is firmly against the back of F3.


BVM © Page 34 4/27/2009

NOSE GEAR MOUNT

Locate the (4) carbon flex arm mounts. Two of the mounts have a “1” stamped on them as well as slightly smaller holes in the flange as shown in the photo. Thread the small holes with a 4-40 tap.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The proper operation of the nose gear and the nose gear doors, driven by a single servo, is achieved by geometry designed into the system and tested over many flights. The motion transfer arm and its plywood extension are key pieces to the operation of the primary nose door. The production arm packed with your kit is shown at right. In some of the subsequent photos you will see the factory models with a slightly different arm due to the evolutionary process of perfecting the door’s operation. Use the arm as supplied. Study the fuselage plans and note the orientation of the motion transfer arm in relation to the transfer arm mount and F1. The bearing must be on the aft side of the arm. Scuff the sides of the transfer arm and glue the ply arm extension into the correct position using medium CA. Cut two strips of the .007 carbon fiber and laminate to the sides of the transfer arm and its extension with ZAP-A-GAP (photo below).

Locate laser cut sheet LC-031 and remove the F1 and F2 formers. Laminate the (2) F1 formers together using ZAP-A-GAP.

Refer to the fuselage plans and note the orientation of

former F2. Break away F2A and the servo screw doublers and glue these items onto the bottom of F2.

Use four (4) 4-40 x ½” SHCS to install the flex arm

brackets onto the F1 Assembly. The threaded flex arm brackets are installed at the front of the F1 assembly; this will allow you to remove them if you ever need to replace them.

Before final tightening of the bolts, slide the carbon

flex arms themselves into the mounts as shown, then tighten the bolts, this will allow both the front and rear flex arm mount to properly align on the F1 assembly.


BVM © Page 35 4/27/2009

NOTE: The servos for the Electra were carefully selected for the job. The lowered position of former F2 allows for better pushrod geometry. However, this lowered position requires the use of servos with a lower profile such as the JR 791 and 9411 servos. BVM highly recommends the use of these servos.

Install the nose gear steering and retraction servos.

At this time if you have already purchased the Landing gear for the Electra, you can install the nose gear onto the flex arms using four (4) 4-40 x 3/8” flat head screws. Once the gear is installed, the F1 and F2 assemblies can be joined by installing two (2) #2 x 3/8” domed SHS screws through the tabs at the front of the flex arms into the hole in F2 and F2A.

Install the EZ connector onto the transfer arm as shown

but do not glue the transfer arm to the base mount at this time.

NOSE GEAR DOORS

Using the parts in the offset hinge package supplied with your kit, make up the hinge section for the nose gear door. Use the plans as a guide for parts orientation, length and position. (NOTE: Be sure to get the hinge sections into the correct location. The hinge being pointed to at right goes in the FORWARD location)

Ensure that the opening for the nose gear door is

sanded and that the door itself (still one piece) fits into the opening with a smooth and even gap all the way around. Use a sanding block to correct as necessary.

Determine which end of the door goes forward and use

a razor saw to cut the doors apart. The front door is 2.5” and the rear is 5.5” in length.

Cut strips of the .015” x 3/8” x 36” poly ply to line the

inside of gear bay as shown in the “NOSE GEAR DOOR DETAIL” on the fuselage plans.

Turn the model upside down and place the rear nose

gear door into position resting on the poly ply strips.


BVM © Page 36 4/27/2009

Allow a slightly larger gap on the hinge side. Use masking tape to secure the door in place. Turn the model up right.

Glue the plywood motion transfer arm mount into the recess in the F1/F2 assembly using ZAP-A-GAP (see

plans). The mount should be perpendicular to F1

Working through the engine hatch, slide the F1/F2 assembly into the nose section of the model. It is a tight fit past the inlets but a little pressure will push the assembly past. Center the F1/F2 assembly on the front of the nose door.

Position the transfer arm assembly onto its mount and allow the arm to drop to the floor of the fuselage and make a mark just above the carbon reinforcement area as shown.

Place the hinge assembly into position and ensure

that the hole in the EZ connector falls slightly forward or slightly aft of the forward hinge’s attachment point as these two points will be connected with a “Z” bend wire later (see plans).

When the hinge assembly is properly located use

SLOW ZAP to glue the bosses to the fuselage and door. Be careful to not glue the hinge to its pivot base. AeroPoxy will used to final glue the hinges to the fuselage interior.

Turn the model over, remove the masking tape and

check the operation of the doors. The door should open and close without binding and should seat properly against the fuselage.

IMPORTANT: Experience has shown very small amounts of CA are okay when used in conjunction with lightweight fiberglass sections such as the Electra Jet’s fuselage. However, Large amounts of CA, especially when “accelerated” can cause deformation of the fiberglass skin. For this reason, we recommend that if you use CA to “tack glue” any of the bulkheads within the model that it is done sparingly. Later after all of the interior structure is installed, final glue all of the components with either AeroPoxy or Vpoxy.

Once the operation of the nose door is correct, close the door and tape it as before. Check to make sure that former F1 is vertical in the model and that the tire and strut are centered over the door.

Tack glue F1 and the F2 assemblies along their edge

into the model. 5-minute epoxy is recommended.

Trial fit the forward nose gear door. Use a flat Perma Grit file and cut a 3/32” recess into the front of the door, wide enough to accept the hinge.


BVM © Page 37 4/27/2009

In preparation for gluing the hinge, scuff it with #80-

grit sandpaper.

Locate the molded carbon attachment, the nose door spring and a single #2 x 3/8” Domed SMS. Mount the spring to the attachment point at one end and cut approximately ¼ inch off the other end of the spring. You can use a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the last loop of spring out to make an attachment point.

NOTE: BVM tried in vane to obtain springs the proper length.

Glue the hinge into the recess in the door then glue the spring assembly onto the door as well using medium CA. Make sure that regardless of the location of the attachment point, the spring itself lays in the middle of the door (see plans for the dimension from the door LE to the spring mount).

Place the front door into position, close it and tape in

place. Turn the model over and working from the inside, use ZAP-A-GAP to glue the hinge into the fuselage.

Remove the tape and check the operation of the

door.

NOSE DOOR ACTUATION

Locate the 1/8” x 3/8” x 7” Balsa piece and cut it to the length shown on the plans to make the “Nose Door Spring Mount Base”. Glue the two molded pivot blocks onto the ends of the balsa piece as shown on the plans.

Study the drawing for the “Door Opening Spring” at the

top of the fuselage plan. Locate the .032” x 7” music wire and make the small loop and first bend as shown using needle nose pliers. Place the Wire through the pivot blocks then make the final 90-degree bend.

Locate the .047”: x 1.75” music wire and using needle

nose pliers, make a “Z” bend on one end. Study the drawing on the plans showing the two cross sections of F1 to visualize the geometry of the transfer arm and nose door. Install the “Z” bend into the door hinge and the other end into the EZ connector of the motion transfer arm and set the length to approximate the drawing.


BVM © Page 38 4/27/2009

Note the location of the spring mount base and lightly tack glue to the fuselage side with medium CA or five-minute epoxy. It should be approximately at the height of the flex arms in front view and parallel with the hinge line of the rear nose gear door.

From the supplied 3/8” x ¾” x 1” balsa block, cut the “spring adjustment support” block as shown on the cross section view of F1 on the fuselage plans.

Cut a piece of scrap 1/8” plywood to ½” x ¾” long and

glue to the top of the balsa wedge block. Trial fit into position and make a mark at the center of the loop in the .032” spring wire. Drill a 1/16” hole at this location. Glue this assembly into position with 5 minute epoxy as shown here

Install a #2 x 7/16” servo mount screw into the hole

through the loop as shown. After final hook up of the nose door, this spring and adjustment is used to apply just enough pressure to hold the door open in flight but not so much that it hinders the ability of the servo to pull the gear up and close the door.

For now, retract the nose gear and tape both doors shut. Later during radio installation make all final adjustments to these components.

INLETS AND FAN MOUNT To proceed with the installation of the inlets and fan mount, you will need to have the EFV unit in hand. In addition it is assumed that you built the fan mount as described earlier and prepared the cutouts and wrapped the inlets with carbon. The fan mount was designed to act as a positioning fixture for the inlets during installation. NOTE: Centering the EVF in the fuselage is important for proper fit of the BVM Saddle Cells

Use a belt sander or Dremel Rotary Tool to trim the EVF mount rails as shown from this top view. Bevel also the rear bottom corner to allow 2s2p battery installation (see on website).

Trial fit the inlet ducts onto their respective fuselage-intake lips and

place the fan mount over the inlets at the rear. It may help to use strips of masking tape to help hold the inlet sections to the intakes.

Bolt the fan into position on the rails of the fan mount and over the

inlets. Notice that it will slide about ¼” before the inlets hit the molded inside edge of the EVF shroud. This is the correct position for the EVF.


BVM © Page 39 4/27/2009

Install the EVF centering patterns as shown in this photo.

Place a straight piece of wood on the back edges of the EVF unit, check that the aft

flange of the EVF shroud is 90 degrees to the fuse hatch flange.

With the EVF shroud into position, slide the mount back until it just touches the shroud. Hold in place and double check the gaps of the inlet-to-intake lips. Use thin CA to tack the intakes to the inlets and medium CA to tack the fan mount to the inlets.

Use Slo-Zap and small clamps or clothes pins to

join the duct at the aft vertical members.

Use a Dremel Rotary Tool to remove the turned in edges as shown.

Use plastic tape on the outside of the inlets where we just used the Dremel tool. Now, apply BVM Aeropoxy here to fill these gaps. Also, make a small fillet of glue anywhere the two inlets contact each other.

Apply BVM Aeropoxy to the EVF

mount-to-fuse joint and inlet-to-motor mount ring joint.

The foam block supplied with the kit will sit beneath the EVF unit and acts as a “shock” mount. Upon final mounting of the EVF, fit the block under the EVF. The block may need to be sanded slightly for a good fit. It should be just snug under the EVF. It can be spot glued in with 5 – minute epoxy.

STABILIZER LOCATION NOTE: Final gluing of the stabilizers into the fuselage is done in the “WING AND STABILIZER ALIGNMENT” section.

Scuff the fuselage at the location of the F6 bulkhead to the fuselage and stabilizer mounting block joints.

Carve the 3/8” x ½” x 5” balsa mounting block to fit the bottom of the fuselage beneath the stabilizer spar ports as shown on the plans. A sketch of the block given on the plans is useful for visualizing the required cuts. The front side of the block should align with the front edge of the spar ports. The top of the block should lie flush with the bottom of the ports. When these conditions have been established then glue the block in this position with


BVM © Page 40 4/27/2009

AeroPoxy or Vpoxy. Carefully wipe away excess epoxy on the LE of the block so that the F10 bulkhead can locate flush with the blocks in a later step.

Temporarily install the elevators and their hinges into the stabilizer halves. Hold the two surfaces in the neutral control position with the tape applied over the gap at the outboard end of the elevators.

Find the small tick mark molded into the fuselage to locate the stabilizer LE. Make a small ink mark on the

stabilizer LE tip.

Draw an ink line on the fuselage from the tick mark to the trailing edge tip of the stabilizer root fairing. This line will bisect the stabilizer root cross section once the stabilizer is installed. The carbon fiber locating pin in the stabilizer root will also lie on this line.

Slide the blade spar into its port until the alignment pin

touches the fuselage. Mark the contact location of the pin on the fuselage. Remove stabilizer and draw a small vertical line at this location.

Drill a 3/32” diameter hole in the fuselage at the

intersection of the two lines.

Reinstall the stabilizer and check the fit of the locating pin and the LE and TE. Repeat for both stabs.

Adjust the location and size of the alignment pin hole

with a small rat tail Perma-Grit file until the pin penetrates the hole and the LE and TE match the line drawn on the fuselage. The hole should lie on the line. However the location of the LE and TE take first priority. View both stabilizers from the rear to verify they are at the same incidence angle.

Do not glue the stabilizers in place at this time.

Glue the F10 assembly to the fuselage bottom and the front side of the 5” block per the plans. Verify that the

bottom of F10 makes full contact with the block. Glue to the F10 and the fin mount to the fuselage with AeroPoxy.

WING MOUNTING

Temporarily install F4 and F6 in the correct positions and orientation at the spar ports per the plans. Slide the wings into the spar channels. Butt both wings against the fuselage.

Move each wing root so that it is centered on the

fuselage wing fairing. If a wing cannot be centered, the fuselage ports must be trimmed. Slide the wing out just enough to see the ports and the spars. Identify the points of interference. Verify that the carbon fiber locating pins is not affecting the wing position. There is no need for the pin to fit perfectly because the sockets for the pins


BVM © Page 41 4/27/2009

are glued in place later.

Remove the wings and trim the ports as necessary to center each wing root onto the fairing. Replace the wing once the roots are centered and tape them in place. Tack glue F4 and F6 in place with 5-min epoxy. Remove the wing and permanently glue F4 and F6 in place with AeroPoxy or Vpoxy.

Glue the CF wing alignment pin receptacle to the fuselage

using AeroPoxy or Vpoxy. Use Vaseline on the pin to prevent permanent wing attachment.

WING / STABILIZER ALIGNMENT

Set the wings and stabilizers in position. Tighten the 6-32 SHCS in the carbon fiber spar channels to hold the wings in position. Set the model on a suitable flat surface. Study the photo. Note how the stabilizer tips align with the wing TE. If the tips can’t be aligned then the anhedral of the stabilizers halves must be adjusted. Visually check the anhedral of each stabilizer half for equality since the effects the alignment check above. Visually check the incidence angles from side to side to verify they are equal.

The position of the wing in the fuselage is set by the

root fairings and the wing mounting channels in the F4 and F6 bulkheads and therefore is not adjustable. The stabilizer anhedral can be adjusted by shimming under the spars or by removing material from the mounting block with a small Perma-Grit file.

Check the fit of the root of each surface to the

fuselage. If the fit needs to be corrected then lightly sand the root as required to achieve a good fit without excessive thinning of the root ribs.

If gaps still exist then fill them with balsa shims or HobbyLight filler. If shims are used, glue them in place

with Tite Bond (wood glue) because CA hardens the balsa around the joint and causes uneven sanding.

If HobbyLight is used then place a sheet of waxed paper between the wing root and the fuselage. Keep it pulled tight with a sticky tape. Apply HobbyLight around the edges of the root in the sufficient quantity to squeeze out of the gap when the parts are mated. Separate the parts after curing and sand the filler flush with the airfoil surface. Hobbylight sanding properties are very close to balsa. Then saturate the Hobbylight with thin CA for added strength.

Make a final check of alignment, fit, incidence, and positioning as defined above. Decide on the color

scheme and finish the stabilizer components before installing the hinges and torque rods using AeroPoxy or Vpoxy. Install the hinges and torque rods and epoxy the stabilizer in place using AeroPoxy or Vpoxy. Monitor the stabilizer to wing alignment as defined above during the epoxy setup.

Install the elevator horn bearings using ZAP-A-GAP.

SECURING THE WINGS NOTE: The 6-32 x ½” SHCS must penetrate the forward blade spar to assume a secure wing retention.


BVM © Page 42 4/27/2009

Mount wings on model and install bolts into the 4 inserts: (2) 6-32 x ¼” SHCS on the rear spar and (2) 6-32

x ½” SHCS on the front spar. Tighten bolts to mark spar drill location. Loosen bolts and remove wings. Measure the position of bolt imprint on the front spar only and transfer that location to front side of spar. This is necessary to drill the inboard bolt hole through spar at a 90° angle.

Use 1/16” carbide cutter to start hole through CF blade spar. Increase size of hole with 3/32” drill bit. Finish hole with #28 (.1405”) drill bit. A #28 bit is correct size bit for hole through blade spar. However, a 5/32” drill bit could be used if #28 is not available. In this case, drill directly on transferred mark, not biased toward root rib as per “note” below.

NOTE: When starting hole with carbide cutter, use outboard edge of pencil mark, ever so slightly moving hole toward root rib of wing. This will ensure a tight wing root joint to fuselage as wing bolts are installed.

Install wings and all (4) wing bolts. Check wings for fit and tightness. Any excess play up and down can be minimized by applying thick CA to top and bottom of CF blade spars 1/2” from wing root rib. Block sand to achieve firm fit in wing spar channel.

Apply AeroPoxy to the bottom of the (4) brackets to securely glue them to the formers.

NOTE: DO NOT apply AeroPoxy to the top of the brackets.

ELEVATOR CONTROL The elevators are controlled via a .062” music wire riding in a Nyrod sleeve. Study the plans carefully to get an idea of the position and orientation of the parts involved. There are a few points that are very important to the smooth and free operation of the elevators.

Install the F7 assembly into the model as shown on the plans. Glue into place with Vpoxy


BVM © Page 43 4/27/2009

Scuff the exterior of the 36” yellow Nyrod with #80-grit sandpaper then cut into (2) equal lengths.

Solder a 4-40 threaded coupler on to one end of each of the .062 x 36” music wires using silver solder

Use a cut-off wheel and cut away approximately 3/8” of the threads as shown. This will allow you to thread the plastic ball link housing all the way onto the coupler. This is to allow maximum throw of the elevators. This end will therefore become non-adjustable.

Trial fit a yellow Nyrod outer sleeve from the back of

the model through the holes in Former F10 and through former F7. The proper length for the Nyrod is to be nearly FLUSH at the back of F10 and extend just ¼ inch forward of F7. Make a mark, remove the Nyrod, cut to length and repeat for other side.

When the glue on F7 assembly is fully cured, install the

elevator servos as shown on plans – output arm located forward.

NOTE: The silver solder flux (acid) can cause metal to rust if it is not cleaned off. Coat the elevator pushrods with a light oil or lubricant before installing into Nyrods.

Install a 2-56 threaded steel coupler into a clevis, and then place the clevis onto the output arm of one of the elevator servos. Reinstall the Nyrod and place one of the .062” pushrods (from the back) through the Nyrod. Snap the black plastic link connector onto the elevator control horn and make sure the elevator is “neutral”.

With the servo arm and elevator both neutral, mark the cut off length of the .062” pushrod wire. Remove the

entire assembly then cut the wire to the correct length. Leave the pushrod in the Nyrod then silver solder the threaded coupler onto the wire.

The whole assembly (minus the forward clevis) can now be slid back into position and reconnected to

ensure that everything is correct. Repeat for both sides. Glue the yellow Nyrod at both ends with epoxy ELEVATOR TRAVEL: With the black plastic ball link connector attached to the elevator control horn, manually work the elevator through its full up and down travel. Notice that “up” elevator, moves the connector towards the side of the fuselage and “down” elevator moves it away. Ensure that there is sufficient clearance to get one (1) inch of “up” travel.

If may be necessary to remove the elevator and use a pair of pliers as shown to gently bend the horn outwards. Reinstall and check your clearance. Adjust both sides as necessary until you have the correct amount of travel.

Connect the pushrods at both ends making sure there is sufficient movement and that there is no binding. Epoxy formers F9 and “Elevator Pushrod Supports” (see plans) into position. Place them in such a manner


BVM © Page 44 4/27/2009

as to not disturb the position of the pushrod. The fore and aft placement is not critical as long as they are approximately in the middle of the pushrod.

VERTICAL FIN The Electra Jet utilizes a one-piece composite vertical fin. The process for cutting away and hinging the rudder as well as mounting the fin to the fuselage on both the straight and swept-fin are the same. Illustrated here are the steps being applied to a swept-fin model. IMPORTANT: The hinges for the rudder should not be glued in until the finish process is complete.

If you haven’t already cut away the servo opening and lightening holes on the vertical fin do so now using the same tools and methods as previously described.

To cut the rudder away from the vertical fin, use the same

methods as described for the nose gear door cut out.

After cutting the rudder away you will notice an approximate 1/8” recess in the fin T.E. This will allow the L.E. of the rudder room to swivel, yet have a very “scale-like” fit and appearance. Use a block with #180-grit paper to lightly trim the (saw cut) thin T.E. of the fin skins.

Carefully block sand the L.E. of the rudder. Place the

rudder at the back edge of fin and make sure that the gaps line up evenly. Use medium CA to attach balsa L.E. to rudder.

Block sand the edges of the balsa L.E. flush with the

rudder.

Study the photo at right and shape the balsa L.E. as shown. We use a combination of a razor plane and sandpaper - #80-grit then #220-grit sandpaper.

HINGING NOTES: The rudder of the Electra is hinged using three Robart Hinge Points. These are great for scale type hinging because it allows you to set the actual hinge line back into the rudder. However, good craftsmanship and attention to detail is a must for proper operation of the flight surface. On the side view of the fuselage plan there is a cross section showing the depth of the hinge point in relation to the L.E. of the rudder. It is the correct depth of the hinge points, and their alignment with each other, that allow smooth and free operation of the rudder while maintaining a tight gap between the rudder and vertical fin.

Drill a 1/8” hole at each of the three location of the L.E. The Robart hinge guide (shown) is a good tool to have for this type of work. IMPORTANT: The top of the rudder gets very thin and narrow. This will necessitate cutting some of the Hinge Points away (see plans). Be

1/8” drill bit


BVM © Page 45 4/27/2009

sure to not drill too deep or you will puncture the surface of the rudder.

You will notice that when the Hinge Point is set to the correct depth, the hole (as drilled) does not allow much movement. You will need to cut a square, “wedge” shaped area into hole to allow at least 30 degrees of side-to-side movement.

Repeat this procedure until all three hinges are at the

right depth and have good freedom of movement from side to side but DO NOT glue hinges in place at this time

Remove the hinges and use a pen to make a mark just at the edge of the rudder on the centerline of all three hinges. Now place the rudder in position behind the vertical fin and transfer the hinge lines to the vertical fin. Use the Robart hinge guide and drill the three holes in the T.E. of the vertical fin at the correct locations.

NOTE: The balsa L.E. of the rudder can be prepared for final finish by sealing with a coat of CA and a brushed-on coat of primer.

Use a Dremel tool with a disk cutter to make a slot to receive the control horn for the rudder. Study the plans to see the position and orientation. Note that you may need to slightly modify the base of the horn to get it in the correct position.

You may trial fit the horn and rudder hinges, but do not

glue in place until just prior to final finishing of your model. Use AeroPoxy or Vpoxy.

RUDDER SERVO INSTALLATION Due to the size of the vertical fin, a mini-sized servo is required. BVM recommends the JR3421. The Electra fin has carbon fiber reinforcement in the location of the servo mounts.


BVM © Page 46 4/27/2009

Use a Dremel with a carbide bit to cut a slot .6” (just under 5/8”) deep, 1/4 “ from side of both maple block at the location shown on the plans.

Install the rubber bushings that come with your servo into position but do not install the brass collets, they

will not be used in this servo location.

Trial fit the block into position on the servo. The slot should be just wide enough to make a good snug fit. Use a BVM Scuff Board to adjust the slot as needed.

When both blocks fit onto the servo, trial fit the servo into

the vertical fin (see plans for proper location and orientation). Be sure that the servo sits just below the surface of the vertical fin allowing the cover plate room to seat flush into its opening. Make any adjustments necessary to the base of the mounting blocks to get a good fit.

Before installing the servo, glue a piece of scrap 1/8 ply

under the aft edge of the servo pocket to receive the screw that holds the cover on (see plans). Be sure that the ply does not interfere with the placement of the servo.

Use BVM AeroPoxy or Vpoxy to

permanently secure the servo mount blocks to the vertical fin. The poly ply strip retains the servo.

VERTICAL FIN INSTALLATION

Temporarily tape the rudder to the vertical fin and trial fit the fin onto the fuselage noting the fit at the base. It should fit flush and in the correct position fore and aft. If you need to move the fin forward or aft slightly, this can be accomplished by trimming the slot in the fuselage behind or in front of the vertical fin spar.

After thoroughly checking alignment of the fin, Use epoxy

to glue it to the model. Be sure to get enough epoxy into the spar cavity and make sure it is vertical. Use a ruler to measure from a fixed position on each stab to the tip of the vertical fin.

Install hinges and control horn after painting.


BVM © Page 47 4/27/2009

MAIN GEAR RETRACTION Required items: Electra retracts, struts, wheels and JR 791 servo. Construct the main gear pushrods as described below and shown on the plans. All of the parts for constructing the pushrods and connecting them to the servo are included in the retract install package # E-2000M-2010A-02.

Use the 791 servo as a guide to drill 1/16” holes in the carbon fiber mounts. Attach the servo with #2 x 7/16” socket head screws

Drill a 3/32” hole in the center of the arm directly over the “C” section of the mount as shown.

Tack glue F5 (two pieces laminated) as located on plans.

Locate the round JR servo wheel supplied with the servo that matches the drawing on the fuselage plans. Mount (2) ball ends onto the wheel’s outermost predrilled holes using two (2) 2-56 nuts, use thread locker.

Connect the servo into the receiver and turn everything

on. Operate the gear switch noting the rotation of the output. From the top view of the servo (see plans), activating “Gear Up” should yield “Counter Clockwise” rotation. If not, activate the reverse function on the gear channel.

Set the servo wheel onto the servo in the stopped, “Gear

Down” position as shown on the plans.

Place the servo into position on F5 but do not drill for the screws as yet. Orient the servo such that the servo wheel is at the center of the fuselage. The orientation of the servo body itself does not matter as long as you have set the rotation and placement as described.

Construct the main gear retraction pushrods as shown on the plans. The dimension of 10.125” is the length from the tip of the clevis to the tip of the Sullivan spring ball connector when they are set in the center of their adjustment. This allows adjustment of each pushrod by at least 3/8” if necessary. Use Stay-Brite silver solder (BVM part # 5786) for all soldering.


BVM © Page 48 4/27/2009

Begin by cutting the 5/32” x 12” square brass tube

into (2) 6-inch Lengths. Cut each of the .062” x 9” music wires to exactly 7.7 inches. NOTE: Use Stay-Brite silver solder and flux BVM #5786.

Solder a threaded coupler on one end of each of the

7.7-inch long music wires then slide a section of the brass tube onto each wire. Solder the second threaded coupler onto the other end of each of the pushrods.

Center the brass between the threaded couplers and

solder to the music wire at both ends.

The Pushrods are identical – make radius bends to them as shown on plans.

LINKAGE INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT The over-riding factor in the proper retraction and “down locking” of the gear is that that there is always pressure on the actuation arm of the retract unit. This is accomplished with the proper servo and output wheel as described above, yielding more throw to the actuation arm than is required. This additional travel is absorbed into the pushrods. As the gear flexes through normal landing loads, the retract unit can twist and flex. If the pushrod is not properly “loaded” and the gear flexes inboard, a failure can occur. For this reason it is necessary to “pre-load” the linkage.

Attach the clevis side of the pushrod to the main retract units. The clevis connects to the inner most hole of the actuating arm.

Mount the gear to the flex plates and install the wings

onto the model. The pushrods should orient to the servo output wheel in the fuselage.

With both wigs on, locate the servo directly between

the two Sullivan spring ball keepers. (This should be very close to the centerline of the model) Then drill 1/16” holes and install two (2) #2 x 7/16” SHS affixing the servo to F5

With the gear fully extended and the servo in the “Gear Down” position, adjust each pushrod to be approximately 1/8” longer than where the ball should engage the keeper – this is the preload. Pull back the guard on the spring keeper and install both links into position on their respective balls.

With the servo connected to the radio, operate the gear and note the movement of the pushrods. As the gear reaches full extension, the servo should continue to rotate to the horizontal. This should cause the

Flex the strut inboard while engaging the ball keeper


BVM © Page 49 4/27/2009

pushrods to bow and even F5 will begin to twist ever so slightly. The gear should retract fully into the wells. If the doors are attached to the struts, they should be tight against the bottom of the wing.

Adjust the linkage until you have the above conditions.

In the down position, you should be able to apply

pressure to the tire forcing it inwards and down and not unlock the gear. You can also check that when you push on the locking link, (see arrow right), that it always returns to the fully locked position.

NOSE GEAR DOOR AND RETRACT The nose gear retraction setup is similar to the main gear in that, the proper servo output arm and its positioning provide the correct amount of pre-load to the gear when extended as well as enough throw to close the door as the tire enters the gear bay. Unlike the main gear retract servo, the nose retract servo outputs through a single arm, thus it is more susceptible to bending. Extensive testing has found that a plastic servo arm WILL fail. We therefore highly recommend using the Hanger 9 aluminum servo arm part # HAN 3531. These arms are in stock at BVM.

Install the nose gear retract and steering servos and make up the pushrods as shown on the plans. Having already set up the main gear retraction sequence, the servo rotation is already set; it rotates counter clockwise to actuate the gear to the up position.

Bolt a 2-56 ball and hex nut onto the Hanger 9 servo

arm at the center location (1/2” of throw). Connect the servo, turn on the radio and select “Gear Up”. Now place the horn onto the output shaft pointing aft.

The clevis end of the retract pushrod goes on the

outermost hole of the retract actuation arm. Adjust the length of the pushrod to be slightly longer (approx. 1/16”) than where the keeper engages the ball on the output arm. Flex the nose strut aft and up to accomplish the pre-load. Adjust the pushrod to fit under this load.

Cycle the gear through extension and retraction noting a

good solid “Down lock” and retracting well into the gear bay. Adjust the pushrod until you can see the pushrod just beginning to bow after the gear goes into down lock.


BVM © Page 50 4/27/2009

Center the nose steering servo. Install output arm as shown here and on plans then connect and adjust the steering pushrod.

NOTE: Release rudder (nose gear steering) input during retraction and extension cycles to allow the nose gear unit to function properly.

Begin by setting up the rear nose gear door first. Deactivate the nose door spring by removing the screw at the adjustment base, rotate the spring’s arm up out of the way and tape it to the side of the fuselage. Turn on the radio and retract the nose gear under servo power alone making sure that the plywood motion transfer arm is resting on top of the nose strut.

Insert the .047” door pushrod into the EZ connector

on the transfer arm while holding the door tightly closed then tighten the 4-40 x 3/16” SHCS.

Operate the gear with radio on through the extension then back to the retraction cycle allowing the nose strut to activate the nose door. Note the door position, if necessary, re-adjust the door activation by loosening the bolt and sliding the activation wire just a little more into the EZ connector.

Do not make the adjustment too short, as this will

cause the door to hit the tire as it retracts, keeping the door from closing completely. Make small adjustments until the door closes tightly upon retraction.

Allow the nose door torque spring to rest upon the 4-40 bolt in the EZ connector and re-install the screw at the adjustment plate. Adjust the spring to have just enough pressure on the transfer arm to open and hold the door out away from the strut. NOTE: Too much tension on this spring will affect the closing of the door.

The activation of the forward door requires attachment

of the spring to the strut using the supplied 2-inch piece of safety wire. Do not twist the wire too tight. The spring must be able to slide up and down the strut as it retracts and extends. Adjust the wire accordingly.


BVM © Page 51 4/27/2009

BOTTOM HATCH

(See plans) After the retract servo and F5 is installed, glue formers F5A into position as shown. The F5A formers are butt glued to F6; they are NOT glued to the carbon wing plug-in channels.

NOTE: Hatch support strips are cut from .015” x 3/8” poly ply and applied per plans.

Use #80-grit on the poly ply and inside edge of the fuselage and hatch to thoroughly scuff the surfaces. Note that the hatch cover receives six (6) tabs, three front and three rear, the rest are located inside the fuselage as shown at right.

Use ZAP-A-GAP to secure tabs into position. Glue scrap

ply pieces onto the F5As as shown and trim in height as necessary for a flush fit of the hatch to the fuselage. Install the hatch cover into position. Drill through the hatch at the locations shown with a 1/16” bit and install two (2) #2 x 3/8” domed SHS.

NOTE: The bottom hatch must be flexed to install.

ENGINE HATCH NOTE: It is helpful to have an assistant hold the fuse while you fit and adjust the hatch edges. Remove only very small amounts of material at a time.

Begin the work on the hatch by making the cutouts as marked. Use a flat sanding block with #180-grit paper to square up the aft edge. Test fit to fuselage while doing so.

The slots in the fuselage flange are cut with a Dremel

#409 disk.

Proceed to the forward end of the hatch and adjust the mating surfaces there. Use a strip of paper between the hatch and fuselage to locate the tight spots.

After the ends fit as good as possible, use a piece of

sand paper (#180-#220 grit) to lap the side edges.

Check to see if the plywood frame is interfering with the fuselage flange and use a Dremel drum sander to trim if necessary.


BVM © Page 52 4/27/2009

Locate the .020” x 3” x 3” poly ply sheet and, using the template drawn on the fuselage plan, cut (4) half round disks.

Install the disks vertical to the hatch framework using ZAP-A-GAP. Glue one disk at a time and check the side-to-side fit.

Included with your kit is a center hatch spanner made

from 1/16” ply. Note the fit of you hatch; if you need to draw in or expand your hatch slightly, you can accomplish this with the spreader. Glue in place with medium CA.

The engine is held in place on the model by the canopy hatch. NOTE: Properly accomplished, good fitting hatches appear as scale-like panel lines

CANOPY HATCH The canopy of the Electra is unique in that it slides on from the front to the back. If you have built a BVM jet in the past, be aware that this is unique to this model.

Tape the engine hatch firmly into position so that you can begin fitting the canopy hatch using the methods and tools as described previously.

Install the (4) canopy hooks one at a time into

position in the 1/16” ply canopy rails with CA. Fitting the canopy to the fuselage and make any adjustments as needed before installing the next canopy hook.

Install the ply hatch tab F8A into the slot in the framework with ZAP-A-GAP. You can glue some triangle stock around the ply for reinforcement (see plans).

Place the canopy hatch back onto the model. The ply

tab should pass through the slot at the back without interference. Tape the canopy hatch securely in place.

Turn the model over and, working through the bottom

hatch, glue the ply former F8 into position over F8A. To avoid gluing the parts together, lightly glue F8 at


BVM © Page 53 4/27/2009

first, then after removing the canopy further reinforce the bond. Before proceeding, insure that the canopy fits correctly.

Open the hole and slot at the hatch pin location on the right side of the fuselage using Perma-Grit files. Trial fit the hatch pin into position. Ensure that both the hatch slider and the pin itself are not binding with the fiberglass as well as having at least 1/4” of the pin protruding above the fiberglass flange.

Tack the hatch pin in place with five-minute epoxy

then glue around the flanges of the hatch latch with epoxy.

With the hatch pin mounted, slide the canopy onto the model ensuring it is all the way against the fuselage at the back. Note where the hatch pin contacts the bottom of the canopy framework; remove the canopy and drill 3/32” hole at this location. The hole does not have to be perfect.

Reinstall the canopy and ensure that the hatch pin

extends freely through the hole. Adjust the hole with a Perma-Grit file if necessary.

From the supplied .015 x 3/8” poly ply strip, cut a 2-

inch length and drill a 1/16” hole as shown on the fuselage plans – slightly off center.

Slip the poly ply piece onto the hatch pin with the

long side to the rear. Now slide the canopy into position seating it all the way back. The poly ply strip should be visible inside the plywood framework as shown here.

Shim between the poly ply and fuselage side until the poly

strip is contacting the plywood, use a small amount of thin CA to tack the poly ply in place. Depress the hatch pin, remove the canopy and then thoroughly glue the poly ply in place.

The canopy installation is automatic. When you engage the four canopy hooks and slide the canopy back, the poly ply will depress the hatch pin until it engages the hole. Always check the full engagement of hatch latch pin before flight.


BVM © Page 54 4/27/2009

FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION MISCELLANEOUS There are a few more steps you can take before beginning the finishing process. One of the benefits of an all-electric model such as the Electra is that there is no need to fuel proof the inside of the model. On the factory models we installed most of the radio gear as the model was being built, and left it in during the finishing process.

The foam block supplied with your kit will sit beneath your EVF unit and acts as a “shock” mount. Upon final mounting of the fan, fit the block under the fan, you may need to sand it slightly for a good fit. You want it to be just snug under the fan. It can be spot glued in with 5 – minute epoxy.

Construct the rudder pushrod as shown on the plans. Note

also the detail of the rudder servo hatch cover. Make the tabs from the supplied .020” poly ply using the template on the plans. Complete the installation of the hatch cover with the scrap ply under the rear lip and a #2 x 3/8” domed SMS.

COCKPIT AND CLEAR CANOPY The final mounting of the canopy and cockpit deck be completed after all paintwork and gearing-up of the model.

Trim the clear plastic canopy per molded-in line. Use curved plastic scissors, then a sanding block to smooth the cut edges.

Cut ¼” off of the bottom of the 1/8” balsa seat back and

trim the plastic seat at the demarcation line.

Place the balsa seat back into the plastic seat noting the bottom edge of the balsa. Cut the bottom of the plastic seat at this line with about a 15-degree slant. This will allow the seat to lean back properly in the cockpit tub. Glue the balsa piece into the plastic seat

Trim the bottom flange from the cockpit deck along the demarcation lines. Trial fit into the canopy frame. Trim as necessary to get a good fit.

Place the seat into the cockpit tub. The seat should not

extend more than 1/8” above the raised area behind it.


BVM © Page 55 4/27/2009

Cut sections of the yellow plastic heat shrink to approximately ¼ inch. Cut the black “O” ring and slide the yellow sections on, spacing them evenly as shown. Use a heat gun to shrink them in place. Make two holes at the top of the ejection seat just big enough to fit the ends of “O” ring. Install the “O” ring after you paint the seat.

The cockpits on the factory models are painted with “Model Master” paints. We spray the cockpit tub with flat black or a dark gray, then paint the ejection seat a lighter gray or silver.

After painting, apply the instrument panel, glue the

ejection “pull” ring into the seat back with medium CA and glue the seat to the cockpit tub with Epoxy or ZAP-A-DAP-A-GOO. Trim the pilot as shown and glue in place.

After final finish of the model, Glue the clear canopy in

place by first tacking it in a few spots with 5 minute epoxy then cover the seam from inside with PACER Canopy Glue. The cockpit tub sits above the ply canopy rails and can be held in place with tape.


BVM © Page 56 4/27/2009

FINISHING YOUR MODEL – GENERAL GUIDELINES At this point, construction has been done up to the finish application without installation of the hinges and control horns. Finish the model before this is done.

THE RESIN / GLASS CLOTH APPLICATION (for wings and stabs)

Use an epoxy finish resin such as Pacer’s PT 40 “Finishing Resin”.

NOTE: The Electra Jet’s wing and stabilizer can be film finished for minimum weight. The structures will be quite strong enough with this type of finish. Many great articles have been published on how to apply the model films like MonoKote and Ultracote. NOTE: BVM sells a package of ¾” ounce glass cloth to cover the surfaces of the Electra – Part # 1939 WARNING: DO NOT take your Electra to an auto paint shop. Unless the painter is also a very experienced modeler/flyer, he will ruin your model with extra pounds of paint.

Block sand the balsa surfaces with #220 paper, hand sand the tips with #320.

Cut the 3/4 oz F/G cloth about 2" oversize around the periphery of the wing (stab).

Mix the 2-part resin per instructions.

Lay the F/G cloth on the surface and blow out the wrinkles. Use a soft brush to apply the resin, starting at the center of the surface and work outward.

Stroke the resin with a plastic card, again working from inboard to outboard on the surface. Remove most of the resin and allow to cure.

Apply the cloth/resin to the 2nd side of the surface. Trim the edges after cure with a razor and #220 paper. Lightly scuff the surfaces with a 3M #7447 pad.

Apply the 2nd coat of mixed resin. Squeegee thoroughly into the cloth and remove most of it. The surface should have only a slight sheen to it with no puddles of resin. Allow to cure for a few hours.

Use a 3M #7447 (red) scuff pad to thoroughly dull the surfaces. Sand the L.E, T.E. and tips to remove any excess resin.

Brush on a full coat of PPG Prima K-36 mixed with the 201 hardener, add reducer if necessary for easier brushing.

Allow a few hours for cure then fill any defects with F/G putty such as Evercoat #400 (auto paint supply).

Block sand with #100 paper until about 50% of the primer is removed then block with #220 paper until all but a trace of the primer is removed.

Apply pinhole filler (BVM #1925) as per instructions. Remove the filler with a 3M 7447 scuff pad. Spray on a medium coat of “Prima” and check again for defects and fill them.

If you have the benefit of warm sunlight, allow the structures to bake in it for several hours. You can further accelerate the total resin/primer cure by spraying on a thin flat black paint. Once this has been sun heat treated, there should be no further shrinkage.

Block sand with #220 paper to remove the black, then hand sand with #400. These surfaces are now ready for the color finish.

Block sand the seams and joints with #180 grit paper then fill with F/G putty if necessary and sand

again. Brush-prime these areas, sand and then spot spray prime these areas again. Do not prime the entire fuselage - only areas that have been worked.


BVM © Page 57 4/27/2009

FIN TO FUSELAGE FILLET (STANDARD FIN SHOWN)

Thoroughly scuff the area with a 3M 7447 pad that is to accept the fillet.

Use Scotch brand plastic ¼” tape to straddle the fin-to-

fuselage joint then outline with ½” wide tape. Pull the ¼” tape to expose the area to receive the filler.

Further protect the area with masking tape before

applying the fillet. Mix the polyester glazing putty and apply with an

artist’s spatula. Smooth with your finger while still wet.

Use #80 grit sandpaper to rough trim the fillet leaving the tape in place. Sand until the inside edge of the tape is exposed. Use various diameter dowels as sanding fixtures.

Remove the tape and blend the fillet edge with #180 grit paper.

After final sanding to blend the fillet to fuselage and fin, reapply masking tape just beyond the edges of the fillet, then brush prime the area and final sand to make ready for the first coat of paint.

For a perfect fitting wing, cover each wing root with 2-

inch wide packing tape. This will act as a release agent for the material to follow. An alternative method is to use masking tape and a coat of wax.

Cut the holes for the wing spars and forward locator pin, install the wing and tighten the 6-32 screws. Mix small batches of Evercoat 400 working it into the joint between the wing and fuselage. Be sure to get enough in to make solid contact with the wing root but not too much.


BVM © Page 58 4/27/2009

Work material in around the entire wing wiping off any excess before it hardens. Begin sanding with #120-grit and follow with #220 until the fillet is satisfactory. Loosen the 6-32 SHCS and gently tap the wing at the L.E. Remove the wing and block sand the fillet.

Remove the tape from the fuselage root and replace the wing checking for a perfect fit. Sand

as necessary in preparation for final finish. Remove any wax residue. NOTE: BVM uses PPG Concept 2 part paints. Use the reducer recommended for the ambient temperature. If yellow or red is to be used, the lightest weight finish will be accomplished if the surfaces are first all white - no dark spots. Wet sand, then apply colors in 2 thin coats. Back tape colors to avoid multiple layers of paint over the same surfaces. Wet sand all colors with #600 paper. Wipe bleed of reds from whites with a good thinner or acetone. Use clean paper towels and rotate with each stroke, wiping light to dark.

Apply ProMark Graphics transfers as per instructions. Wipe model with isopropyl alcohol or PPG 330 to remove residues of transfers and fingerprints. Use high-pressure air (60 PSI) to blow all dust from all of the orifices of the model then use a tack rag.

CAUTION: Do not apply air pressure close to openings in wings and tails - you could destroy the structure.

Install all hinges and control horns using AeroPoxy or Vpoxy. Recheck the wing/ stabilizer alignment and glue the stabilizers into their mounts. Shim the blade spars as described on page 44. Use AeroPoxy or Vpoxy for stabilizer attachment.

CLEAR COAT Currently BVM is using the Concept (PPG) 2021 clear. Spray out of doors, early in the morning in a no wind condition. Apply a tack coat then a wet coat. The clear coat will be dust free in just a few minutes. Practice with spray equipment on scraps of plastic or old model parts before applying to model.

Application of auto paints to models usually requires thinning the mix 2 to 3 times more than recommended for auto use. CAUTION: Always wear an appropriate charcoal filter equipped mask and plastic gloves when mixing paint, spraying paint, and cleaning the spray equipment. GEARING UP After finishing your model, reinstall any equipment that has been removed, ensuring that everything is properly rigged.

Adjust hinge slots for even top and bottom fit of control surface with wing/stabilizer.

Use .020” shims between surfaces to establish even gap. Ensure sufficient control travel (see later pages) before gluing hinges

Final hinge all flight surfaces. Scuff hinges, SLO-ZAP hinge into control surface then use slow cure epoxy to

glue to mating tail or wing. DO NOT ever use a knife to scrape paint from polypropylene hinges.


BVM © Page 59 4/27/2009

Use the radio to center any servos not already set up, and rig the control surfaces for neutral. (See control

travel section.

Ensure that all “keepers” and set screws are in place and thread-locked as needed

RECEIVER LOCATION DX7 Locate the receiver on top of the receiver tray behind the switch. On the factory models, we use the new Spektrum 7 channel radio. The antennas are located within the forward compartment, in front of the inlets. For a conventional radio (72-Mhz), use a “whip” style antenna. IMPORTANT: Regardless of what radio setup you use, always perform a full and complete range check with the EVF in the model and running. More on this procedure is covered in the instructions you get with your EVF. Do not attempt to fly your model without a successful “motor running” range check.

RECEIVER BATTERY NOTE: The factory models (10S and 12S powered), balance perfectly with a 4-cell 1100Mah battery pack in the nose. This size battery works well with the Electra and allows three flights between charging. Check the MAH used after the first flight.

LANDING GEAR FINAL CHECK Double-check the operation and function of the landing gear prior to your first taxi test or trip to the field. If you have any problems refer to pages 46 – 50. At the time of this writing, the two factory models have completed 80-plus flights from grass and pavement without a single gear failure.

EVF AND BATTERY INSTALLATION The EVF is held in the model with the four (4) 4-40 bolts as described earlier. The batteries are held in the model with Velcro (hook and loop material), on the bottom and sides of the battery. A single 2-inch strip of loop material (fuzzy) at the center of the bottom edge of the battery and a 2-inch strip of hook material (rough) just below the top outside edge. By standardizing the positioning of the individual material in this manner the batteries will fit on either side of the model. This is very helpful when you have multiple sets of batteries. NOTE: Glue the two (2) 1/16” plywood “battery shelves” Into position on top of the main spar assemblies (see plans) with epoxy.


BVM © Page 60 4/27/2009

Install the EVF into position. Turn the fan blades by hand listening for any rubbing on the inlets. If there is any interference, note where the parts are touching, remove the EVF and sand away the problem areas. Vacuum any loose materials from within the fuselage, reinstall the EVF and check again. IMPORTANT: Before final mounting of the EVF, be sure the foam shock mount block has been fitted beneath the fan shroud.

The temperature reading strips on the top edge of the batteries are a BVM accessory BVM part # E-1000-39 The center section of the main power hatch can be opened up as shown with no detriment. This allows easier hook-up of batteries and “Y” harness to the EVF.

INSTALLING THE TAILPIPE Follow the instructions that come with the tailpipe assembly.

CONTROL TRAVEL AND CG CG The CG is located 7.6 Inches aft of L.E. at root chord on the

bottom fuselage fairing. ELEVATOR (Measure at root T.E.) UP High Rate = 1” Low Rate = .8 “ DOWN High Rate = .9” Low Rate = .6” RUDDER (Measure at root T.E.) LEFT 1.25” or more RIGHT 1.25” or more AILERON (Measure at outboard tip) UP High Rate = .5” Low Rate = .35 “ DOWN High Rate = .45” Low Rate = .3” FLAPS (Measured at inboard T.E.) TAKEOFF 1.2” Down LANDING 2.5” Down * HIGH WIND LANDING 2.0” Down * Reset in transmitter when wind is 15 MPH or more


BVM © Page 61 4/27/2009

FIRST RUN AND TAXI TEST IMPORTANT: Before running your motor for the first time, you must read and fully understand the safe operation and set up of the EVF as described in the instructions that came with your unit. For the first run, have a helper secure the model ensuring that they are clear of the intakes. Trim the throttle until the motors begins to run at low idle. Listen carefully for any abnormal sounds, if you hear something, shut the motor down and inspect. While restrained, run the motor for a few moments getting used to the throttle response. Remember that the Electra does not have brakes, so for your first taxi test keep this in mind as you taxi the model. Note any tendency for the model to drift and adjust the nose gear steering. If you haven’t performed a thorough and complete range check with the fan running, do so now. Have a helper secure the model.

The Jet Take-Off When the propulsion force is applied at the rear of a vehicle, it is destabilizing. The slower the forward speed, and the higher the thrust-to-weight ratio, the more problematic this effect is. A high powered model jet during the early stages of taking off is exemplary of this phenomena.

The Proper Technique

A narrow, paved runway that has obstructions on the sides requires the best techniques. The first flights should be made in light wind conditions and preferably little or no crosswind. With good piloting techniques, most jets will handle a 10-15mph crosswind, but save that for later.

Set the wing flaps to the take-off position and taxi into the take-off position on the centerline and nose into the wind. Apply about 1/2 up elevator, release the brakes and slowly advance the throttle to about the 1/2 position. Direction control is primary, first with nose gear steering, and then as the speed increases, the primary control is with the rudder. Once the rudder authority is dominate and the model is headed straight down the runway, advance the throttle to full power. The model will lift off when it has sufficient airspeed.

Retract the gear and climb to a safe altitude and then retract the flaps.

For the first flight, keep the airspeed at a medium level and concentrate on trimming the model and deciding whether or not the center of gravity is optimum.

The published C.G.'s for BVMJets is on the conservative side - a place to start. You may want to ease it back on subsequent flights.


BVM © Page 62 4/27/2009

FIRST FLIGHT PROFILE To start with, you cannot takeoff and fly for 5 minutes at full power, this would ruin the 5,000mah LiPo batteries and make for a very expensive flight. There is a given amount of energy stored in the batteries. An ideal flight profile will consume about 80% of the battery capacity. For a 5,000mah system, the ideal flight would consume 4,000mah and the battery temperature would be 120-130°F at the end of the flight. The battery manufacturers consider these numbers to be safe and one should expect a high cycle life when staying within these parameters. WARNING: Immediately after each flight, disconnect the fan power batteries from the ESC. If this procedure is not followed, the ESC will continue to draw a small amount of current from the batteries eventually depleting them below minimum voltage and ruin the entire set of packs During the development of the EVF and the Electra Jet, we have made flights that consumed 90% of the available amperage and have seen battery temps of 140°F. The subject batteries are still performing per spec. Because the factory team uses multiple sets of batteries, the cycle life of these hard-pressed cells will not be known for some time. So, to stay within the 80% margin, make the first flights according to the profile suggested here, recharge the batteries, then make time and power usage adjustments accordingly.

Transmitter travel adjust settings: Throttle ATV (DX-7 radio) High __85%___ Low __58%___ These values will vary with type of radio. The “H” setting should be such that when the throttle is reduced from the full power position that there is a corresponding reduction in fan rpm. The “L” setting can be adjusted such that at the mid throttle trim position, the fan is running at its lowest rpm and will turn off by reducing the trim a bit more. This allows the fan to be an air brake for landing touchdown and roll out. We have experimented with using a throttle-to-throttle mix at the full throttle position to help conserve the batteries and this is an option, but most pilots prefer not to bother with this and simply learn to use the

How do you know that your EVF is putting out its maximum potential at full throttle? It is a sound that you get used to hearing. You can also use a push scale such as shown in the EVF brochure. The installed thrust will vary with model type and ambient conditions. For an Electra, expect 12-13 pounds of thrust, for a BVM F-86, expect 10-11 pounds of thrust. Always check the battery pack voltage before a flight. A 5S1P Saddle Cell™ should register 21±.2 volts. A 6S1P Saddle Cell™ should register 25±.2 volts. For the first flight – pick a low wind day, set your transmitter timer to 3:30. Start the timer at the beginning of the take-off roll. Plan to touch down at 3 minutes 30 seconds. At 15-20 seconds after lift-off, reduce throttle to ¾ position for a cruise climb with gear and flaps up. During the flight, use a 50/50 mix of full throttle for high speed passes and vertical maneuvers, and ½ throttle for cruising fly-bys and turnarounds. The landing pattern can be flown with ½ throttle, gear and flaps down and then power off for the final glide path and flared touchdown. “Motor off” descents help to conserve. NOTE: Grass field operation will consume more power for taxing out and back.


BVM © Page 63 4/27/2009

power lever (throttle) as required. NOTE: The EVF does not require a low throttle cool down after landing and taxi back

BVM Electra Jet RADIO CONTROL COMPONENTS

CONTROLS QTY SERVO

TYPE

QTY LEAD EXT

Fuse Tail Wing Ailerons 2 JR 3421 1 2 12” 1 “Y” Harness Elevators 2 JR 3421 or DS821 1 12” 1 “Y” Harness Rudder 1 JR 3421 1 24” 1 “Y” Harness


BVM © Page 64 4/27/2009

Nose Steering 1 JR 9411 or *DS821

Flaps 2 JR 9411 or DS821 1 12” 1 – reversed or

mechanically reverse (servo arm)

1 “Y” Harness

Retracts 2 JR 791 2 6” 1 12” 1 “Y” Harness Battery 1 JR 1100 MAH 4-cell Switch 1 JR Deluxe harness

NOTE: IF EQUIPMENT OTHER THAN JR IS USED, CONSULT THAT MANUFACTURER FOR SIMILAR COMPONENTS. DS821 servos come standard with Spektrum DX * DS 821 must be shimmed up from tray to clear fuselage bottom.�

instruction˜and˜operation˜manual˜ · about the electra-jet’s wood parts the wings and...

Documents