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ISSN 0368-4636

May-June 2012

Volume 73 No. 1

ContentsContentsContents

The Textile Association (India)The Textile Association (India)(Founded 1939)

National President

Mr. D. R. MEHTA

National Vice-President

Dr. ANIL GUPTA

Chairman

Mr. K. D. SANGHVI

Vice-Chairman

Dr. N. N. MAHAPATRA

Hon. Gen. Secretary

Mr. V. D. ZOPE

Hon. Jt. Gen. Secretary

Mr. HARESH B. PAREKH

Mr. VIRENDRA JARIWALA

Hon. Treasurer

Mr. V. N. PATIL

Chairman - J.T.A. Editorial Board

Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELI

Chairman P.A.C.

Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY

Chairman B.P.C.

Prof. ASHWIN I. THAKKAR

EDITORIAL BOARD

MEMBERS

OFFICE BEARERS

Chairman : Prof. (Dr.) M. D. TELIInstitute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

Co-Chairman : Mr. K. L. VIDURASHWATHATechnical Advisor, Rossari Biotech, Mumbai

Editor : Prof. (Dr.) R. V. ADIVAREKARInstitute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai

Dr. ARINDAM BASU (CSTRI, Bangalore)

Mr. C. BOSE (Bose & Co., Mumbai)

Dr. A. N. DESAI (BTRA, Mumbai)

Dr. ROSHAN PAUL (LEITAT, Spain)

Dr. A. K. PRASAD (Clariant, Mumbai)

Dr. RAMKUMAR SHESHADRI (Texastech University, USA)

Dr. H. V. SREENIVASAMURTHY (Advisor, NMIMS-CTF, Shirpur)

Published by PAVITRA PUBLISHERMr. J. B. SOMA (Publisher)

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Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 065.M.: 9819801922

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Sundaram Art Printing Press, Mumbai

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Phone : (91-22) 2446 1145 • Fax (91-22) 2447 4971E-mail : taicnt@mtnl.net.in

www.textileassociationindia.org

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)

JTA is Abstracted By :

Chemical Abstracts,

World Textile Abstracts,

USA

UK

Indian Science Abstrats,

Texincon,

India

India

Editorial

Welcome to the Peer Reviewed Journal of TAI

by Prof. (Dr.) Mangesh D. Teli

2

A Review on Auto Coner Winding Package Defects

and Probable Remedies

by Suchibrata Ray & Biswapati Chatterjee

5

Efficiency and Productivity Analysis of the Indian Garment

Industry During MFA Phase-Out and Post Period

by R. N. Joshi

29

Value Addition of the Products through Traditional

Danka Craft of Udaipur

by Radha Kashyap, Sulekha Ojha & Jyoti Soni

35

Texperience

Current Challenges for Textile Industry

by Dr. P. Siva Ramakumar

41

Texspecial

Innovation Through Software

by Sharad Tandon

43

Texnotes

Shape Memory Polymers in Textiles

by Chet Ram Meena

45

OTHER FEATURES

Unit Activities

News

Advertisement Index

Forthcoming Events

47494068

Effect of Weaves & Weft Counts on Comfort

Properties of PV Blended Suiting Fabrics

by S. B. Mhetre & Archana K. Karadbhajne

10

Effect of Plasma Treatment on Coloration & Antibacterial

Activity of Silk Fabric Using Natural Fungal Extract

by Parthiban M. & Thilagavathi G.

18

Self & Mixed Shades of Catechu and Henna on Cotton and

Silk using Harda as a Mordant

by M. D. Teli, Javed Shaikh, Kushalkumar Mahalle, Vijendra Labade & Rupa Trivedi

23

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1. IntroductionThe ring spinning system still dominates over other newspinning technologies and is likely to continue as a mostversatile machine for yarn manufacturing. The biggersize yarn package (called cones) of normally 1.5 - 2.5kgs are produced on Auto coner winding machine fromthe small yarn packages (yarn cop) of normally 45 -70gms. It is essential to facilitate the next manufacturingprocesses. The preparation of better quality yarn pack-ages is important for satisfactory performance duringknitting and weaving processes. Most popular windingsystem for all categories of normal yarn other thanspecial type of yarn, is drum winding. Drum windingmachines rotates forming package through surfacecontact with a cylindrical drum, and the yarn is tra-versed either by an independent traverse, typically bya wing cam or by grooves in the drum [1]. In thiswinding operation, packages are sometimes being pro-duced with different kinds of defects in it. The perfor-mance of latest generation high speed machines in nextmanufacturing processes gets largely affected by suchdefective packages. Also, defect in the package leadsto cone rejection and subsequently a large amount ofhard waste is generated. In this paper, certain causesof faults generation and few remedial steps are high-

lighted. which are to be taken to reduce or minimizethe winding package defects.

Figure 1.1 : Auto Coner Winding Machine

2. Types of yarn package defectsThe defects are classified as per their nature and ap-pearance. In any condition none of the defects is de-sirable. Therefore the seriousness of all the types ofdefects is same. Any sort of defect causes yarn pack-age rejection. The frequency of occurrence of all kindsof package defects is definitely different. The nature oftwelve package defects is as follows in order of itsincreasing frequency of occurrence [2].� Jali cone� Bunch cone� Cut cone

A Review on Auto Coner Winding Package Defectsand Probable Remedies

Suchibrata Ray* and Biswapati ChatterjeeGovernment College of Engineering & Textile Technology

AbstractSince globalization, market has become more competitive. In today's competitive market the customersare becoming more and more sensitive regarding quality. Therefore, every parameter regarding yarn andpackage quality is of prime importance and must be met out in closest tolerance. In spite of producingbest quality yarn, defects generated during winding operation will make the quality yarn as unacceptableto the customer. So, it has become most essential for quality yarn producers to prevent occurrences ofany kind of winding package defects. Here we have tried to highlight the sources and remedialmeasures for winding package defects, practiced in the yarn manufacturing industry.

KeywordsWinding, Defects, Patterning, Loop gate, Adaptor, Deflector plate, Tension sensor, Doffing.

* All correspondence should be addressed to:Suchibrata RayGovernment College of Engineering and Textile Technology,12, William Carey Road,Serampore-712201, Hooghly, West BengalE-mail: raysuchi@yahoo.co.in

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� Ribbon cone� Hard/Soft Cone� Displaced/loose yarn layers� Over doff cone� Dirty Cone� Stained cone� Drum jammed cone� Squeezed cone� Webbed cone

3. Package defects, reasons of generation andtheir remediesAll kinds of winding defects as listed above have beenindividually defined and their probable causes with sug-gested remedies have been discussed here.

3.1 Jali Cone

Figure 3.1 : Jali Cone

Definition: Certain yarn portion comes out of its traverseposition during package formation and gets winded crosson bottom or top surface of the package. Yarn is visibleon the small or big side of the cone either across theside, around the tube, or going back in the cones [1].

3.1.1 Probable causes� Improper timings of drum brake.� Variation in winding acceleration.� Yarn is out of deflector plate.

3.1.2 Remedies1. Winding acceleration and brake timings to be checkedand standard timings to be set.

3.2 Bunch Cone

Figure 3.2 : Bunch cone

Definition: A small group of yarns get spliced with singleyarn and goes into the cone.

3.2.1 Probable causes� Yarn trapped in gripper arm.� Ring frame bobbin slough off.� Pre- cleaner setting too loose.� Improper working of Loop gate.

3.2.2 Remedies� Any cut mark in gripper arm to be checked.� Top bunch setting of ring frame cop to be set at

10 mm.� Pre cleaner setting to be adjusted.� Loop gate setting and functioning to be checked.

3.3 Cut Cone

Figure 3.3 : Cut cone

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Definition : The yarn is broken on the edges or in themiddle of the cone.

3.3.1 Probable causes� Tight setting of deflector plate.� Setting of suction mouth taper.� Wrong handling of the package (pushing) after

doffing.� Any cut mark on drum.� Wax deposition on cone aligner (Patti) plate.� Rubbing with traverse belt.

3.3.2 Remedies� Deflector plate and suction mouth setting to be

adjusted.� After doffing, package to be gently pushed.� Traverse belt to be checked for any sharp edges.� Deposited wax to be cleaned properly.

3.4 Ribbon coneDefinition: A pattern or ring is formed on the surfaceof the package by the drum when drum rpm are stay-ing the same [2].

3.4.1 Probable causes� Anti-patterning device does not work.� Power failure occurs while winding machine is

running.

3.4.2 Remedies� Anti-patterning device working to be checked and

adjusted.� Winding machine to be stopped before power fail.

3.5 Hard and Soft coneDefinition : Package hardness varies from its desiredvalue resulting in great difference in package densityfrom one winder head to another [2].

3.5.1 Probable causes� Improper tension setting - too high produce hard

cone and low tension produce soft cone.� Loop gate remains always "on".� Higher "pre- tensioner" setting.� Improper setting of cradle pressure - too high

produce hard cone and low tension produce softcone.

� Defective tension sensor.

3.5.2 Remedies� Tension, Pre-tensioner and cradle pressure set-

tings are to be set as per material type and pack-age parameters.

� Defective tension sensors to be replaced or re-paired.

� Loop gate functioning to be checked.

3.6 Displaced / loose yarn layers

Figure 3.4 : Loose yarn layers

Definition: Some layers of yarn are pushed out on thesmall diameter side of the package.

3.6.1 Probable causes� Paper cone slips from adaptor.� Poor fitting of paper cone on adaptor (mis-match-

ing of paper cone and adaptor).� Surface of paper cone is slippery

3.6.2 Remedies� Paper cone to be fitted properly in the adaptor by

operator.� Surface of empty paper cone must be rough

enough to hold the initial yarn layers.� Adaptor gauge to be maintained symmetrical from

nose to tail so that paper cone fits properly in theadaptor.

3.7 Over doff coneDefinition : Package weight exceeds from requiredweight.

3.7.1 Probable causes� Length sensor does not work.� Wrong length setting in informator of the machine.� Wrong work practices by the operator; like not

doffing of the full package and further restartingof winding with the full doff package.

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3.7.2 Remedies� Rouge drums to be identified and functioning of

length sensor to be checked periodically.� Length vis-à-vis package weight calculation to be

done rightly and desired length to be set in theinformatory of the machine.

� Doffing to be done when drum gives yellow light(full doff signal) only.

3.8 Dirty cone

Figure 3.5 : Dirty cone

Definition: Package surface gets dirty or contaminatedwith oil drops or carbon particles.

3.8.1 Probable causes� Use of dirty hands by operators.� Un-cleaned machine parts.� Wrong work practice - cleaning of adapter by

blow of compressed air. Oil particles coming withcompressed air get deposited.

3.8.2 Remedies� Machine parts and hands have to be cleaned

continuously.� Cleaning of Adaptor to be carried out by a dry

piece of cloth only. Compressed air cleaning prac-tice to be completely stopped.

3.9 Stained Cone

Figure 3.6 : Stained cone

Definition: A dark ring appears on a specific area orportion of the package. It is generated because of sur-face friction between package and other machine parts.

3.9.1 Probable causes� Lapping in drum.� Deflector plate touches the package.� Full doff cone touches with fixed back side ma-

chine part.

3.9.2 Remedies� Full doff packages have to be picked up immedi-

ately after full doff length reaches.� Bended deflector plates have to be straightened up.

3.10 Drum jammed Cone

Figure 3.7 : Drum jammed cone

Definition: Winding of yarn on small portion (along thetraverse) of the package because of defective traverseaction.

3.10.1 Probable causes� Deflector plate got bent.� Jamming or lapping on drum.

3.10.2 Remedies� The deflector plate to be made straight.� Drum jamming/lapping to be avoided or to be

cleaned immediately in case of jamming.

3.11 Squeezed cone

Figure 3.8 : Squeezed cone

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Definition: After full or partial cone building cone shoul-der bends inwards.

3.11.1 Probable causes� Poor handling of empty paper cones.� Use of lower collapsing strength (CS) empty pa-

per cones.� Use of higher temperature than standard during

material conditioning.

3.11.2 Remedies� Soft handling of package after doffing and during

packing.� Standard cone collapsing strength (CS) to be

maintained as per variety of paper cones.� Temperature in conditioning to be maintained as

per cone type (as mentioned below): Low CS cone: 60 degree celcius

High CS cone: 65 Degree celcius

3.12 Webbed cone

Figure 3.9 : Webbed cone

Definition: Yarn layers come out of cone surface andforms a web like appearance.

3.12.1 Probable causes1. Drum stops for long time.2. Partially built-up cone is taken out and refitted

again in the same drum or other drum.3. Yarn is running out of tension disc.4. Tension sensor is defective.

3.12.2 Remedies1. Drum stoppage with partially built-up cone for

longer time to be avoided.2. Only full (set length/weight) cone to be taken out

from the drum.3. Yarn to be passed through tension disc.4. Defective tension sensor to be replaced or re-

paired.

4. ConclusionWith the increasing demand for superior quality ofpackage cones in industry, it seems natural that anyform of defects generated at the winding stage is moreprone to incur considerable loss in subsequent stages ofproduction as well as down to ultimate products. At-tempts have been therefore made identifying twelve(12) frequently occurring defects in package cones inhigh speed auto coner winding system. Their probablecauses with remedies are also listed out so as to avoidany occurrence of such defects.

References

1. Yarn faults and package defects - SITRA publica-tions.

2. www.textilesindepth.com�����

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VISIT YOUR WEBSITEwww.textileassociationindia.org

� Detail information and Data of the Tex-tile Association (India)

� View JTA Issues on-line : Year 2008 on-wards

� See ATA/GMTA Exam results

� See ATA/GMTA Exam Schedule

� Photo Gallery of TAI Events

� Access Copies of AITC Papers

� TAI Publications: Books, TABLETS, andCDs

� And much more ………..

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1. IntroductionClothing is an integral part of human life and has anumber of functions like adornment, status, modesty &protection. To be competitive, modern clothing besideshaving good mechanical & technological properties &being of easy care, must possess good comfort char-acteristics [1].Comfort has totally replaced the durabil-ity as far as the selection of garments/ fabrics is con-cerned [2].

The comfort sensation of a fabric has multidimensionalattributes and it is not possible to quantify it through asingle physical property. It is possible to distinguish thetwo aspects of wear comfort of clothing.

� Thermo physiological wear comfort : It concernsthe heat & moisture transport properties of clothingand the way the clothing helps to maintain the heat

balance of the body during various levels of activ-ity.

� Skin sensational wear comfort : It concerns themechanical contact of the fabric with the skin, itssoftness and pliability in movement & its lack ofprickle, irritation & cling when damp.

In order to find comfort evaluation of textiles, the con-cept of "Fabric Hand" is commonly used to assessfabrics. Term like "Fabric Handle" or simply "Handle"or "Hand" are also used. Fabric hand refers to the totalsensations experienced when a fabric is touched ormanipulated in the fingers.

The handle of the fabric is influenced by its mechanical& surface properties. The ease of body movement &the level of load generated in fabric during body move-ment are obviously related to the fabric handle proper-ties & therefore a study of clothing tactile comfortmust be taken into account. It is concerned with thesubjective judgment of roughness, smoothness, harsh-ness, pliability, thickness, etc. Many factors may influ-ence the fabric tactile quality such as raw material,yarn structure, fabric structure & finishing treatments.

Effect of Weaves & Weft Counts on Comfort Propertiesof PV Blended Suiting Fabrics

S. B. Mhetre & Archana K. Karadbhajne*Department of Textile Technology,

Textile & Engineering Institute

AbstractThe effect of weaves & weft counts on the thermal comfort and tactile properties of polyester viscoseblended fabrics have been studied by measuring the low stress mechanical properties on KawabataEvaluation System. The thermal comfort has been studied by measuring the air permeability, thermalinsulation & moisture vapour transfer properties of fabrics. The tactile properties have been studied bymeasuring the fabric mechanical & surface properties such as tensile, shear, bending, compression,surface roughness, surface friction and handle. The study shows that, KOSHI (stiffness) values arehigher for 2/1 twill woven fabrics, NUMERI (smoothness) and FUKURAMI (fullness & softness)values are higher for 2/2 twill & 5 end satin, thus giving higher Total Hand Value (THV). Plain wovenfabrics gives lower KOSHI, NUMERI & FUKURAMI, thus lower THV. Irrespective of the weave,fabrics woven using finer yarns helped in improving the surface smoothness. The air resistance is morefor twill and satin woven fabrics. The air permeability & moisture transport rate is more for plain wovenfabrics. Thermal insulation values are higher for 2/2 twill woven fabrics.

KeywordsAir resistance, fabric comfort, fabric handle, low stress mechanical properties, Moisture transport rate,thermal insulation value.

* All correspondence should be addressed to:Archana K. KaradbhajneDepartment of Textile TechnologyTextile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji, Dist. Kolhapur,E-mail: archu.lande@gmail.com

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Many researchers have carried out extensive work onfabric handle properties [3-13]. Thermal comfort is thefactor governed by the movement of heat, moistureand air through the fabric. The maintenance of thermalbalance is probably the most important attribute of cloth-ing and has drawn the attention of many textile re-search workers[14-18].

Efforts are being made to produce more comfortablefabrics which should satisfy three conditions i.e. goodhand, possibility of making good appearance of suit andmechanical comfort for wear [19]. Thus both mechani-cal comfort & thermal comfort characteristics of thefabric needs to be investigated to understand the physi-cal and physiological interrelationship between the cloth& human body. It is therefore important to examine thechange in mechanical properties of fabric and the totalhand value including various transmission behaviourwith change in weave and weft yarn count.

The present work, therefore, is aimed to study themechanical and thermal comfort aspects of PV blendedsuiting fabrics produced by using different weaves andweft counts in light weight, medium weight & heavyweight categories.

2. Material and Methods2.1 Materials2.1.1. Preparation of fabric samplesFifteen samples of suiting fabrics with different weftcounts and weaves were manufactured from 65:35polyester viscose blended yarns. Dope dyed blackcoloured Polyester fibres of 1.4 Denier with 44 mmlength & 1.5 Denier Viscose of 38 mm length wereused to manufacture the yarns.

All the fifteen samples of suiting fabrics were manu-factured with different constructions as shown in Table2.1 in different weight categories on a Sulzer TW11weaving machine. In light weight category plain wovenfabrics were manufactured. In medium weight category2/1 & 2/2 twill woven fabrics were manufactured andin heavy weight category 4 end & 5 end satin wovenfabrics were manufactured.

The finishing of the fabric samples was done as per thenormal process sequence followed in the suiting indus-try as below : grey singeing - Pre scouring - DryingHeat setting - Resin treatment (Resin 5 gpl + 10 gplsoftner) Perching Stabila Conti press or Nikki KierDecatising.

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Table 2.1 : Fabric Constructional parameters, fabric thickness & fabric weight

Warp count is 2/84 Nm for all samples.

Sample Weave Weft count Fabric thickness Fabric Weight (mg/cm2)Code (Nm) To mm at max. pressure

(Tm mm)

A1 Plain 2/84 0.382 0.302 16.92

A2 Plain 1/56 0.380 0.284 15.26

A3 Plain 1/48 0.404 0.296 16.18

B1 2/1 twill 2/84 0.433 0.334 21.30

B2 2/1 twill 1/56 0.412 0.308 20.40

B3 2/1 twill 1/48 0.441 0.323 22.16

C1 2/2 twill 2/84 0.460 0.353 22.54

C2 2/2 twill 1/56 0.425 0.328 20.52

C3 2/2 twill 1/48 0.447 0.343 21.64

D1 4 end satin 2/84 0.454 0.348 22.67

D2 4 end satin 1/56 0.422 0.327 20.42

D3 4 end satin 1/48 0.443 0.333 21.13

E1 5 end satin 2/84 0.504 0.379 24.05

E2 5 end satin 1/56 0.513 0.393 25.92

E3 5 end satin 1/48 0.493 0.380 23.62

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2.2 Methods2.2.1 Yarn PropertiesAll the yarns were tested for tensile tests which werecarried out on STATIMAT ME tester with test speedof 300 mm/min and gauge length 500 mm at a preten-sion of 0.5 CN/Tex with a drop force of 90% at 10Nload cell with 1% threshold.

2.2.2 Fabric tactile comfort propertiesHandle properties of the fabrics were evaluated bymeasuring the fabric low-stress mechanical properties(tactile, shear, bending, compression, surface, rough-ness, and surface friction) on KAWABATA EvaluationSystem for fabrics (KES FB). The tensile propertiesand shear properties were studied on KES-FB1 (tensileand shear tester). The tensile properties were mea-sured by plotting the force extension curve betweenzero and max. force of 500 gf/cm and the recoverycurve. Shear properties were measured by shearingthe fabric sample parallel to its long axis, keeping aconstant tension of 10 gf/cm on the clamp. Bendingproperties were measured on KES-FB2 (Pure bendingtester) by bending the fabric sample between the cur-vatures - 2.5 & 2.5cm -1. Compressional propertieswere studied on KES-FB3 (Compression tester) by

placing the sample between two plates & increasingthe pressure while continuously monitoring the samplethickness to a maximum pressure of 50 gf/cm2. Thesurface roughness and surface friction were measuredon KES-FB4 (Surface tester). The primary & totalhand values were calculated from sixteen mechanicalproperties.

2.2.3 Fabric thermal comfort propertiesAir permeability tests were conducted on KES-F8 AP1(Air permeability tester ).Thermal insulation and moisture transport rate weredetermined by using the KES-F 7 (Thermo Labo II B).All the fabric testings were carried out in Central In-stitute For Research On Cotton Technology , AdenwalaRoad, Matunga, Mumbai .

3. Results and Discussion3.1. Tensile propertiesTensile properties of suiting fabrics are shown in 3.1The EMT (Tensile strain) value indicates low-stressextensibility and is related to crimp removal processduring tensile loading. This factor affects tailorabilityand seam slippage. A higher value of EMT provideswear comfort but create problems during stitching andseam pressing.

Table 3.1 : Tensile Properties

Sample LT WT RT EMT

Code Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft

A1 0.718 0.669 7.40 5.57 58.77 65.05 4.13 3.34

A2 0.645 0.666 7.85 6.05 62.40 62.38 4.87 3.63

A3 0.744 0.704 8.63 4.93 59.04 68.97 4.64 2.81

B1 0.728 0.699 6.93 5.22 62.84 61.31 3.80 2.99

B2 0.715 0.710 6.85 4.55 61.68 64.28 3.83 2.57

B3 0.754 0.710 7.25 4.05 58.90 67.82 3.85 2.28

C1 0.682 0.602 6.27 5.32 57.37 64.87 3.68 3.54

C2 0.672 0.678 6.43 4.88 60.03 62.57 3.83 2.88

C3 0.698 0.628 6.43 4.68 58.36 64.17 3.68 2.98

D1 0.699 0.691 6.25 4.98 58.85 63.30 3.58 2.88

D2 0.695 0.653 6.28 4.68 64.54 62.57 3.61 2.87

D3 0.683 0.663 5.90 4.13 61.01 66.07 3.45 2.49

E1 0.679 0.688 5.45 6.90 62.82 54.36 3.21 4.03

E2 0.686 0.767 6.55 4.65 58.78 60.75 3.82 2.43

E3 0.682 0.657 6.45 5.35 59.74 59.81 3.78 3.26

EMT - Tensile Strain ; LT - Linearity of tensile Property ;WT- Tensile Energy; RT- Tensile Resilience.

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It is observed that EMT for warp is higher for all fabricsamples than for weft except for sample E1. EMTvalues are higher for plain woven fabrics. Among allplain woven fabrics A2 has highest EMT and among all4 end satin woven fabrics, D3 has lowest EMT.

The linearity of tensile property (LT) is indicative ofwearing comfort. Lower values of LT gives higherfabric extensibility in initial strain range indicating bettercomfort, but on the other fabric dimensional stabilitydecreases. It is seen that, LT is higher for B3 &lower for C1. The tensile energy (WT) values are lowerfor D3 and higher for A2. The tensile Resilience (RT)indicates recovery after tensile deformation. RT is higherfor A3 and lower for E1.Tensile resilience values arehigher for tighter construction because of crimp re-moval which leads to a better recovery in tight fabrics.

3.2. Shear PropertiesIt has been observed from table 3.2 that the shearrigidity (G) in higher for B3 (1/48 weft , 2/1 twill) andlower for E3 (1/48 weft , 5 end satin). The high valueof shear rigidity causes difficulty in tailoring and dis-comfort during wearing. Shear rigidity of the fabricmainly depends upon the mobility of the warp and weft

threads within the fabric. The compact structure offabric having higher pick density gives higher shearrigidity values and hysteresis of shear. An increase inpicks per inch significantly increases shear rigidity andit may be because of restriction on yarn movement inthe fabrics with more picks per inch.

2HG and 2HG5 indicates the hysteresis of shear forceat 0.50 and 50 respectively. It is also observed fromtable 3.3 that the hysteresis for shear is higher for B3i.e. 2/1 twill woven fabric made with 1/48 Nm as aweft yarn and lower for A3 i.e. plain woven fabricmade with 1/48 Nm as a weft yarn.

Shearing occurs due to the relative movement of twosets of yarns in the fabric. Significant reduction in shearrigidity is observed for the 2/2 twill woven fabric than2/1 twill woven fabric. This can be attributed to thereduction in the number of yarn interlacing of the 2/1twill woven fabric, which would considerably bring downthe frictional forces giving rise to lower shear rigidityand shear hysteresis. A similar trend is observed forthe satin weave fabrics. A 5 end satin weave displayedlower shear rigidity and hysteresis (except for E2 fab-ric) than their corresponding 4 end satin weave fabric.

Table 3.2 : Shear & Bending Properties

Sample Shear Properties Bending Properties

Code G 2HG 2HG5 B 2HB

Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp WeftA1 1.33 1.24 2.08 1.24 4.80 4.81 0.0587 0.0551 0.0407 0.0404

A2 1.30 1.27 1.81 1.45 4.57 4.64 0.0473 0.0298 0.0292 0.0248

A3 1.17 0.94 1.86 1.31 4.19 3.61 0.0479 0.0409 0.0352 0.0367

B1 2.91 2.69 2.94 3.26 9.36 8.84 0.0908 0.0849 0.0638 0.0605

B2 3.41 3.45 3.89 2.89 10.96 9.92 0.1038 0.0589 0.0747 0.0555

B3 4.76 4.49 4.77 4.24 12.74 11.86 0.1088 0.0795 0.0818 0.0824

C1 1.86 1.73 2.55 2.24 7.07 7.05 0.0899 0.0773 0.0756 0.0615

C2 1.65 1.48 1.89 1.86 6.57 6.20 0.0859 0.0458 0.0648 0.0368

C3 1.94 1.78 2.16 2.04 7.26 6.92 0.0964 0.0662 0.0707 0.0562

D1 1.82 1.72 2.17 2.30 6.93 6.49 0.0874 0.0642 0.0574 0.0506

D2 1.59 1.48 2.24 1.92 6.26 5.67 0.0755 0.0423 0.0553 0.0320D3 1.77 1.68 2.07 2.15 6.43 6.47 0.0821 0.0550 0.0554 0.0477

E1 1.18 1.16 1.86 1.72 4.74 4.70 0.0945 0.0551 0.0694 0.0430

E2 2.16 2.26 3.10 2.74 8.24 8.05 0.01393 0.0865 0.0918 0.0741

E3 1.08 1.01 2.05 1.34 4.36 3.91 0.0956 0.0555 0.0608 0.0405

G- Shear Rigidity ; 2HG- Hysterisis of shear at 0.50 ; 2HG5- Hysterisis of shear at 50 ;B- Bending Rigidity ; 2HB - Hysterisis of Bending moment

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3.3. Bending PropertiesBending rigidity (B) of a fabric depends upon the bend-ing rigidity of the threads and the mobility of warp andweft threads within the fabric. Bending rigidity (B) ishigh for E2 & low for A2. Bending rigidity & hysterisisof bending values are higher for the fabrics with morepick density.

2HB represents the hysteresis of bending moment whichis a measure of recovery from bending deformation.Hysteresis of bending moment (2HB) is high for E2 &low for A2. Bending rigidity is one of the importantmechanical property influencing the tailorability of thefabric. Increase in bending rigidity increases Koshi( Stiffness ). Bending rigidity is higher in warp directionthan in weft direction. The bending rigidity of yarndepends on 4th power of yarn's diameter, i.e. 2nd powerof yarn count. Koshi increases with yarn count.

3.4. Surface PropertiesThe fabric surface properties are shown in table 3.3 Itis observed that the coefficient of friction (MIU) ishigher for sample C1 (2/2 twill woven fabric made with2/84 Nm weft yarn) and is lower for B2 (2/1 twill

woven fabric made with 1/56 Nm weft yarn ).Themean deviation of coefficient of friction (MMD) notesthe surface smoothness as perceived while moving thefingers on the fabric surface. MMD is higher for B1(2/1 twill woven fabric made with 2/84 Nm weft yarn)& lower for C2 (2/2 twill woven fabric made with 1/56 Nm weft yarn).Also the geometrical roughness(SMD) is higher for A1 (plain woven fabric made with2/84 Nm weft yarn) and lower for C2 (2/2 twill wovenfabric made with 1/56 Nm weft yarn).

According to M.Matsudaira et. al.[6], scroopy feel offabric increases because of increase of twist numberof weft yarn. All the samples of first category aremade by 2/84 Nm weft yarns whose TPI is 29.79which is more than other yarns. Thus fabric wovenusing finer yarns in B2 fabrics aided in improving thesurface smoothness.

3.5. Compressional PropertiesThe compressional properties of fabrics are measuredby placing the sample between two plates and moni-toring its thickness with increasing pressure. The lin-earity of compression (LC) mainly depends on the fabric

Table 3.3 : Surface and Compression Properties

Sample Surface properties Compression properties Code

MIU MMD SMDLC WC RC

Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp WeftA1 0.143 0.171 0.0217 0.0152 10.72 5.28 0.624 0.125 61.06

A2 0.146 0.170 0.0171 0.0177 7.65 5.27 0.533 0.128 61.41A3 0.142 0.175 0.0268 0.0147 8.68 4.69 0.380 0.100 64.15

B1 0.143 0.159 0.0153 0.0315 4.00 4.17 0.539 0.134 60.30

B2 0.136 0.151 0.0122 0.0181 3.71 4.15 0.495 0.127 62.74

B3 0.137 0.153 0.0168 0.0267 3.45 3.88 0.397 0.114 59.49

C1 0.162 0.172 0.0100 0.0149 3.06 3.80 0.478 0.127 69.09

C2 0.150 0.166 0.0113 0.0134 2.74 3.09 0.523 0.127 66.84

C3 0.140 0.158 0.0102 0.0162 2.95 3.73 0.427 0.110 58.38

D1 0.150 0.160 0.0114 0.0163 3.70 3.40 0.459 0.120 62.96

D2 0.150 0.153 0.0130 0.0145 3.12 2.97 0.554 0.130 56.23

D3 0.146 0.150 0.0135 0.0191 3.81 3.58 0.443 0.123 71.09

E1 0.154 0.172 0.0111 0.0149 3.19 3.88 0.466 0.146 52.94

E2 0.157 0.165 0.0145 0.0149 2.78 3.33 0.506 0.152 51.25E3 0.150 0.177 0.0153 0.0134 3.77 3.43 0.500 0.142 57.64

MIU - coefficient of friction ; MMD - Mean deviation of MIU;SMD - Geometrical Roughness ; LC - Linearity of Compression ;WC - Compressional energy ; RC- Compressional Resilience

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thickness and compressional characteristics of the yarn.It has been observed from table 5 that LC is higher forA1 (plain woven fabric made with 2/84 Nm weftyarn)& lower for A3 (plain woven fabric made with1/48 Nm weft yarn). Compressional energy (WC)depends upon the LC and the amount of compression.WC is higher for E2 (5 end satin woven fabric madewith 1/56 Nm weft yarn) and lower for A3 (plainwoven fabric made with 1/48 Nm weft yarn). Thecompressional resilience (RC) mainly depends uponfabric thickness and compressional characteristics ofyarn. It has been observed that RC is higher for D3 (4end satin woven fabric made with 1/48 Nm weft yarn)& lower for E2 (5 end satin woven fabric made with1/56 Nm weft yarn).

3.6. Fabric weight and fabric thicknessThe plain woven fabrics are manufactured in light weightcategory suiting fabrics & 5 end satin fabrics aremanufactured in heavy weight category suiting fabrics.Thus the fabric weight is higher for E2 (5 end satinwoven fabric made with 1/56 Nm weft yarn) and lowerfor A2 ( plain woven fabric made with 1/56 Nm weft

yarn) and the fabric thickness is higher for E2 andlower for A2.

3.7. Fabric hand valuesThe fabric samples are manufactured for winter suit-ing, hence the three primary hand values namely Koshi,Numeri and Fukurami have been calculated and areshown in table 3.4 Primary hand values are graded byusing a scale of 1-10 where 1 indicates the weakestfeeling & value 10 indicates the strongest with regardsto the particular descriptor.

THV gives a consolidated index reflecting the suitabil-ity of the fabric for predetermined applications in ascale of 0-5. A THV of 5 indicates that the fabric isideal for the intended use while a THV of 0 suggestsits unsuitability . A value of THV between 0-5 wouldindicate varying levels of suitability of the fabric for theproposed application.

In a fabric the Koshi (Stiffness) depends on its bendingproperties. Koshi values are higher for B3 (2/1 twillwoven fabrics made with 1/48Nm weft yarn ) and

Table 3.4 : Primary and Total Hand Values and Comfort properties of suiting fabrics

Primary Hand Values Comfort properties

Sample Koshi Numeri Fukurami Thermal Moisture AirCode (Stiffness) (Smoothness) (Fullness THV Insulation Transport Resistance

& Softness) value rate (m) (K.Pa. CV% (Tog) (g/sq. ms) S/m)

A1 4.07 2.94 2.45 1.78 0.823 0.00947 0.345 16.6

A2 2.95 3.72 3.20 1.90 0.765 0.01043 0.291 17.4

A3 2.99 3.11 2.37 1.48 0.765 0.00950 0.334 15.7

B1 6.51 1.96 2.32 1.90 0.764 0.00876 1.751 13.4

B2 6.56 3.39 3.31 2.47 0.764 0.00840 1.422 11.0

B3 7.38 1.99 2.40 1.91 0.736 0.00864 2.170 12.9

C1 5.68 4.56 3.96 2.93 0.856 0.00820 1.924 11.2

C2 4.90 4.77 3.84 2.88 0.800 0.00896 1.371 10.2

C3 5.74 4.22 3.38 2.67 0.804 0.00889 1.622 13.6

D1 5.55 4.14 3.33 2.62 0.775 0.00887 1.941 7.1

D2 4.67 4.33 3.28 2.54 0.751 0.00888 1.531 7.5

D3 5.27 3.81 3.29 2.48 0.745 0.00870 1.583 9.6

E1 4.75 4.94 3.85 2.93 0.799 0.00870 1.740 12.8

E2 6.82 3.74 3.36 2.57 0.790 0.00743 2.129 16.0

E3 4.70 4.63 3.54 2.72 0.777 0.00971 1.443 4.4

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lower for A2 (plain woven fabric made with 1/56Nmweft yarn ). According to M. Matsudaira et. al.[6],Koshi increases with yarn count and weft yarn density.Increase in bending rigidity increases KOSHI . TheKOSHI is less for A2 fabric since its bending rigidityis less. Numeri means surface smoothness. Numerivalues are lower for 2/1 twill woven fabrics and higherfor 5 end satin woven fabrics. It has been observedthat for sample E1, Numeri value is high and for B1,the Numeri value is less.

Plain woven fabrics due to higher number of yarn in-terlacing, in the fabric structure presented a more un-even surface topology compared to the twill and satinweave fabrics. The long floats in the twill and satinfabrics, aided in improving the surface smoothness. Itwas observed that irrespective of the weave, fabricswoven using finer yarns helped in improving their sur-face smoothness.

Fukurami (Fullness & Softness) is the bulky, rich andwell-formed feeling and it mainly depends on fabricbulk and compressional properties. It has been observedthat Fukurami values are higher for 2/2 twill wovenfabrics specially for C1and lower for B1, i.e. 2/1 twillwoven fabrics.

The total hand value of the fabric is estimated from theprimary hand values using Kawabata System of equa-tions. It has been observed from table 6 that THV arehigher in the 2/2 twill and 5 end satin woven fabricsand lower in plain woven fabrics.

The 2/2 twill weave fabric gave better grading (THV)as a winter suiting fabric compared to 2/1 twill weaveby virtue of higher fabric smoothness (Numeri), soft-ness and fullness (Fukurami) and lower stiffness (Koshi).Similarly, 5 end satin weave gave better Total HandValue (THV) than 4 end satin weave. They also exhibitgreater surface smoothness possibly due to longer floatson the fabric surface compared to 4 end satin weave.Softness and fullness too were enhanced due to greaterthickness of these fabrics. Overall the 5 end satin weavefabrics were noted to give the best grading in terms oftotal hand value as suiting fabric among all the fabricsunder study.

3.8. Fabric comfort propertiesThe thermal comfort is related to fabric transmissionbehaviour, namely thermal insulation, moisture transportrate and air resistance. Table 3.4 shows the comfort

properties of all the fabric samples.

It has been observed that the air resistance increasesfor twill & satin woven fabrics. This may be attributedto compact structure of fabric & hence lesser numberof pores are available for air passage. The air resis-tance is low for plain woven fabric A2 and high for 2/1 twill woven fabric B3. Since single yarn woven fab-rics gives higher air permeability as compared to 2 plyyarns because of low packing density of singl yarn[15].

The air permeability of a fabric determines its resis-tance to wind penetration which affects the thermalinsulation of the fabric. The thermal insulation plays amajor role in maintaining heat balance between thebody and the environment. The main function of cloth-ing in summer should be heat dissipation, whereas inwinter it should be heat conservation which is influ-enced by thermal insulation.

Thermal insulation is an important measure for analysingthe effect of material properties on heat transfer. Ther-mal insulation value is high for 2/2 twill woven fabricmade from 2/84 Nm as weft yarns & low for 2/1 twillwoven fabric made from 1/48 Nm as weft yarns. Higherthe air resistance, lower is the thermal insulation value.Fabric thickness is the most important factor governingthe thermal insulation. Other factors affecting the ther-mal insulation are fibre type, bulk density, fibre arrange-ment, compressibility and air permeability of fabric.

Moisture vapour transfer is the ability of a fabric totransfer the perspiration in form of moisture vapourthrough it. Higher the air resistance, lower is the mois-ture transport. A fabric with low moisture vapour trans-fer is unable to transfer sufficient moisture, leading tosweat accumulation and hence discomfort. The mois-ture vapour transfer of 5 end satin woven fabrics arelower than plain woven fabrics, both made from 1/56Nm as a weft yarn. Thus it is observed that the mois-ture vapour transport is higher for plain woven fabricsthan twill & satin woven fabrics.

4. ConclusionThe extensibility in warp direction is higher than in weftfor all fabric samples. Plain woven fabrics have higherextensibility and more geometrical roughness than twill& satin woven fabrics. Linearity of compression ishigher for plain woven fabric manufactured from 2/84Nm weft yarns & lower for fabric woven in plain

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weave with 1/48 Nm weft yarns. Linearity of tensileproperty & tensile energy values are higher for plainwoven & 2/1 twill woven fabrics.

Shear rigidity & hysteresis of shear is higher for 2/1twill woven fabrics and it is highest for 2/1 twill wovenfabrics manufactured with 1/48 Nm weft yarns. Thismay be because of high weave density. 2/1 twill wovenfabrics shows higher bending rigidity & hysteresis val-ues and plain woven fabrics shows less bending rigidity& hysteresis values.

Coefficient of friction of 2/1 twill woven fabrics is loweras compared to other fabrics under study. Compres-sional energy is higher for satin woven fabrics. Fabricthickness is higher for 5 end satin woven fabrics thanplain fabrics. Irrespective of the weave, fabrics wovenusing finer yarns helped in improving their surfacesmoothness.

KOSHI (stiffness) values are higher for 2/1 twill &lower for plain woven fabrics. NUMERI (smoothness)and FUKURAMI (fullness & softness) values arehigher for 2/2 twill & 5 end satin, thus gives higherTHV. Plain woven fabrics gives lower NUMERI &FUKURAMI, thus lower THV.

The air resistance is more for twill and satin wovenfabrics. The air permeability & moisture transport rateis more for plain woven fabrics. 2/2 twill woven fabricsgives highest values for thermal insulation.

5. Industrial importanceComfort is an important aspect in today's terms as bothconsumer and industry are focusing more on the com-fort aspect of clothing materials. Accordingly a properselection of weave and weft count should lead to re-alization of specific comfort properties of the fabric inmuch economic and scientific way.

This study provides a valuable insight into weave selec-tion and yarn count so as to achieve comfort propertiesspecific to end use requirement. Knowing the relationsthat may exist between fabric weave and tactile prop-erties, manufacturers would be able to design specifictouch by the weaving process instead of using finishingtreatments. In general, the objective evaluation toolcould be used in the product development process fortechnical modification and quality control.

AcknowledgementThe author would like to thank Raymond Ltd.Chhindwara for providing the fibres, yarns and neces-sary infrastructure for manufacturing the fabric samples.The author is also grateful to the staff of RaymondLtd. Chhindwara for their help in sample preparation.

References1. Senthilkumar P., Dasaradan B.S., IE(I) Journal-

TX, 88, 3,(2007).2. Behera B. K, Mishra R., IJFTR, 32, 72, (2007).3. Nayak R.K., Punj S.K., Chatterjee K.N., Behera

B.K., IJFTR, 34, 122,( 2009).4. Sular V., Okur A., Fibres & Textiles in Eastern

Europe,16, 61,(2008).5. Ozcelik G., Supuren G., Gulumser T., Tarakcioglu

I., Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 16, 56,(2008).

6. Matsudaira M., Nakano K., YamazakiY.,HayashiY., Hayashi O., Journal of Text Inst,100, 265,(2009).

7. Winakor G., Kim C.J., Text Res J, 601, (1980).8. Radhakrishnaiah R., Tejatanalert S., Sawhney A.

P. S., Text Res Journal, 63,573, (1993).9. Matsudaira M., Journal of Text Inst, 160,

(1994).10. Dawes V. H., Owen J. D., Journal of Text Inst,

62, 233,(1971).11. T.J.Mahar, P. Wheelwright, R. C. Dhingra, R.

Postle, Text Res Journal, 7, (1990)12. Tyagi G.K., Krishna G., Bhattacharya S., Kumar

P., IJFTR, 34,137,(2009).13. Emel Onder, Fatma Kalaoglu, Bulent Ozipek, Text

Res Journal, 73,854, (2003).14. Paek S. L., Journal of Text Inst, 581.15. Yang K., Jiao M. L., Chen Y.S., Li J., Zhang W.

Y., Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 16, 51,(2008).

16. Dent R.W., Text Res Journal,71, 796, (2001).17. . Hsieh Y.L., Yu B.,. Hartzell M.M., Text Res

Journal, 62, 697, (1992).18. Bensaid S., Osselin J-F., Schacher L. and Adolphe

D., Journal of Text Inst, 97,137, (2006).19. Sueo Kawabata, Masako Niwa, Yoshihiro

Yamashita, 27th Textile research Symposium. Mt.Fuji, Japan, 349.

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1. IntroductionThe worldwide demand for colorants of natural origin,especially yellow or red pigments, is rapidly increasingin the food, cosmetic and textile sectors [1, 2]. Severalresearch projects have so far been carried out to evalu-ate the techno-economic feasibility of today's alterna-tive dye crops. Among the species examined, commonmadder (Rubbia tinctorum L), wood (Isatis tinctoriaL) proved to be quite interesting sources of red (al-izarin), and yellow (luteolin)dyes respectively, either fortheir agronomic characteristics or for their dyeing prop-erties [3, 4]. In fact, all three dyes were extensivelyexploited until the commercial success of their syn-thetic analogues. The main disadvantages of thesenatural dyes lies in the order of magnitude of theirextraction yield factors (a few grams of pigment per kgof dried raw material). This makes their current marketprice about USD 1/g, thus limiting their application tohigh-value-added natural-colored garments only. Toovercome this limitation, it was suggested to exploit thepotentiality of other biological sources such as fungi(both moulds and yeasts), bacteria, algae and plant

cultures, since appropriate selection, mutation or ge-netic engineering techniques are likely to improve sig-nificantly the pigment production yields with respect towild organism [5, 6]. Among the several pigment-pro-ducing micro-organisms described in the literature, thefungus thermomyces has been thoroughly studied [7].It has been traditionally used for manufacturing foodcolorants and fermented foods and beverages in south-ern and far eastern Asia, the latter being also used inmedical therapy to promote blood circulation and propercholesterol levels, prevent gastric and intestinal disor-ders, stimulate digestion, etc [8]. The several pigmentsproduced by thermomyces are oligoketides and havebeen subdivided into three groups; rubropunctain andmonascorubrin are orange pigments, presenting differ-ent side chains on the ozolactone ring [9]. Their twoazoto analogues are the red pigments rubropunctamineand monascorubramine, where as their reduced formsare the yellow pigments monascin and ankaflavin[10].This research attempted to study the influence ofplasma treatment on the dyeing potential and microberesistant characteristics of the natural fungal extractpigmented samples.

2. Materials and Methods2.1 MaterialsBleached 100% silk fabric plain weave, yarn count 60s

Effect of Plasma Treatment on Coloration & AntibacterialActivity of Silk Fabric Using Natural Fungal Extract

Parthiban M* & Thilagavathi GDept of Fashion Technology, PSG College of Technology

AbstractThe present study aims to evaluate the commercial potentiality for improving the dye ability of naturalextract on silk fabric by using low temperature plasma treatment. The fungal pigments were extractedfrom the species of thermomyces, purified and characterized using UV-Vis and FTIR spectra and usedfor dyeing process. The method is to modify the conventional dyeing process using plasma pretreatmentby varying the treatment time on silk fabric before dyeing with natural fungal extract and to analyzethe parameters like K/S, wash fastness, rubbing fastness, light fastness and bacterial reduction (%). Theresults showed that the plasma pretreated samples brings better fixation levels, improvement in fastnessproperties and imparts good antibacterial activity for the dyed silk fabric which was dyed using naturalfungal extract at optimum conditions of 600 C, 30 min at a pH of 3. It was also inferred that the plasmatreated samples does not showed any influence with increase in the treatment time.

KeywordsBacterial reduction, silk, fungal pigment, plasma treatment & antibacterial activity.

* All correspondence should be addressed to:Parthiban MDept of Fashion Technology, PSG College of Technology,Coimbatore -641 004E-mail: parthi_mtech@yahoo.com

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Ne with 60 ends/cm, 30 picks/cm and 80 gsm wasused. Fabrics were prepared in the dimensions of 8" X8" for plasma pretreatment before subjecting to dyeing.

2.2 Methods2.2.1 Extraction and estimation of pigment (air-dry-ing process)Extracellular pigment producing fungi thermomycesspecies was isolated from soil. The fungal cultures wereinoculated onto potato dextrose broth and incubated at35ºC for 5-7 days; supernatant was filtered through thefilter paper. Broth having the pigment was taken in aclean glass petriplates and placed under hot air in adust free chamber 40ºC. The plate was covered witha thin muslin cloth to avoid contamination due to dust.After 8 hours of drying, the volume of the broth wasreduced to one third. The condensed broth was lyo-philized and the powered pigment was stored at 4ºCand is shown in Fig 2.1(a) & Fig 2.1(b).

(a) (b)

Figure 2.1(a) &(b) : Samples of extracted pigment

2.2.2 Selection of mordantVarious synthetic mordants like stannous chloride, alum,ferrous sulphate and natural mordants like myrobolan,neem oil were identified for the above process. Consid-ering the ecofriendliness and cost effectiveness, thenatural mordant myrobolan was chosen for the dyeingprocess. The fabric was initially pre mordanted beforetreating with the natural fungal extract pigment for thedyeing process.

2.2.3 Plasma pre treatment on silk fabricLow temperature treatment of silk fabric was doneusing RF and DC sputtering unit. The temperature andpressure used for the treatment of silk fabric is roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure respectively. Ac-cording to frame size silk, fabric is cut and treated forthree different time periods of 15sec, 45sec and 80sec.

2.2.4 Dyeing of natural fungal extract on plasmapretreated silk fabric

Plasma treated samples for 15sec, 45 sec, 80 sec and

untreated sample are dyed using natural dye by thefollowing procedure. Samples were steeped in themordant bath prepared with 5 % (owm) of myrobalan.The bath ratio was 1:20. Mordanting was done at atemperature of 300C for 20 min. Samples were rinsedwith tap water and squeezed. The mordanted sampleswere steeped in the dye bath with liquor to ratio of 1:20that was prepared by 5% solution (owm) of extracteddye at pH 4.5-5.5 in presence of acetic acid. Dyeingof sample was done at 300 C for 20 min. The sampleswere rinsed with tap water and dried at 600C for 20min.

2.3 TestingThe untreated and treated samples were tested forvarious measurements by standard test procedures.Color fastness properties of the samples were assessedusing AATCC standards -fastness to washing (AATCCTest Method 61-2009), fastness to rubbing/crocking(AATCC Test Method 8-2007) and fastness to light(AATCC Test Method 16-2004). The dyed sampleswere analysed for the spectral values K/S determinedusing a Minolta 508 spectrophotometer with MacbethMatch View software (X-Rite, USA) in D65 daylight.

2.4 Determination of antibacterial activityBacterial strains were grown in nutrient broth at 37° Cfor 18-24 hr. 0.01 ml of culture broth was spread onnutrient agar plate by spread plate method. Using ster-ile cork borer a well was formed, and impregnated with100ml of methanolic extract and crude extract. Theplates were incubated at 37° C for 24 hr. The suscep-tibility of the test organism was determined by measur-ing the zone of inhibition around the well.

2.4.1 Determination of minimum inhibitory concen-tration (MIC)The MIC was performed to test the antimicrobial ac-tivity of the methanolic extract of P.purpuroscens,thermomyces sp and chatomium sp. using tube dilutionmethod (Claeys et al., 1988) the MIC (minimum inhibi-tory concentration) was defined as the lowest concen-tration of antibiotics or extracts that did not show anygrowth of tested pathogens at a minimum concentra-tion. This test was performed at four concentration ofthe plant extract (10mg/ml,1mg/ml, 0.1mg/ml and0.01mg/ml). Twenty-four hours old culture of eachorganism was used for the study. 4/10 dilution of eachorganism was prepared by serial dilution technique. Afour number of sterilized eppendorf tubes were takenand to this 900ml of 4/10 diluted test organism were

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added. To the first tube, 0.1 ml of prepared cultureextract was added and serially diluted to the last tube.The four tubes corresponding to four concentrations ofthe culture extract was obtained (10mg/ml, 1mg/ml,0.1mg/ml, 0.01mg/ml). Likewise, a set of eppendorftubes was prepared for each organism for each testsamples. Simultaneously; controls were also kept forthe experiment. For the second set of eppendorf tubes(4 numbers), 0.1 ml of the negative control (100 %ethanol) was added to first tube and serially diluted tothe last tube. For the third set of eppendorf tubes (4numbers), 0.1ml of the positive control, ketaconazolefor fungi and chleorampheicol for bacteria (10 mg/ml)was added to the first tube and serially dilute to the lasttube. For the fourth set of eppendorf tubes (2 num-bers), nothing was added so that the tubes containedonly the microbial cells. Similar to the ager well diffu-sion method, the petri plates were divided into 4 equalquadrants. After incubation of the eppendorf tubes foran hour, 50 l from each of the tubes were spotted onthe petri plates. The plates were then covered andincubated for 24 hours. The growth of the organism foreach dilution was observed and thus the minimum in-hibitory concentration of the fungal extract was calcu-lated as shown in Table 3.1.

3. Results and Discussion3.1 Effect of plasma treated samples on K/S valueThe K/S value of low temperature plasma treatedsamples show better results comparatively to the un-treated sample. From Table 3.2, it is inferred that fromthe various plasma treated samples, 15s treated sampleshows greater K/S value compared to 45 and 60 sec-onds treated samples. It proves that the plasma treatedsamples increases the depth of absorption of the natu-ral fungal extracted pigments on the silk fabric speci-men. Hence, the relative color strength of the naturalfungal dyed sample is greatly influenced by the plasmatreatment.

3.2 Effect of plasma treated samples on color fast-nessThe color fastness values of low temperature plasmatreated samples exhibit good ratings comparatively tothe untreated sample. From Table 3.3, it is inferred thatfrom the various plasma treated samples, 15s treatedsample shows overall good fastness ratings comparedto 45 and 60 seconds treated samples. It is inferredthat the plasma treated samples influences the degreeof fixation and depth of penetration of the natural fun-gal extracted pigments on to the silk fabric specimen.Hence, the durability of the natural fungal extracted

Table 3.1 : Minimum inhibitory concentration of thermomyces sp, P.purpuroscens and Chaetomium sp. against pathogens

Pathogens Dilution 1 Dilution 2 Dilution 3 Dilution 4 (10 mg/ml) (1 mg/ml) (0.1 mg/ml) (0.01 mg/ml)

1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3Gram positivebacteriaEnterococcus I I I I I I I I NI NI NI NIBacillus subtilis I NI NI I NI NI I NI NI NI NI NIB.cereus I I NI I I NI I I NI I NI NIGram negativebacteriaEscherichia Coli I I NI I NI NI I NI NI NI NI NIVibrio Cholerae I I NI I NI NI I NI NI NI NI NISalmonella typhi I NI NI I NI NI I NI NI NI NI NIFungiC.albicans I I NI I I NI I NI NI I NI NIC.neoformans I I NI I I NI I NI NI NI NI NIControlSolvent control NI NI NI NIChloramphenicol I I I NIKetoconazole I I I I

1- Thermomyces sp; 2 - P.purpuroscens; 3 - Chaetomium sp. NI - No inhibition; I- Inhibition

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dyed silk fabric samples can be increased by subjectingto plasma pretreatment.

3.3 Effect of plasma treated samples on antibacte-rial activityThe antibacterial activity of low temperature plasmatreated samples exhibit good bacterial reduction %comparatively to the untreated sample. From Table3.4, it is inferred that from the various plasma treatedsamples, 15s treated sample shows overall good bacte-rial reduction % with respect to E.coli (nigative bacte-ria) and S.aureus (positive bacteria) as compared to 45and 60 seconds treated samples. It is inferred that theplasma treated samples influences the antibacterialactivity of the natural fungal extracted pigment on thesilk fabric specimen. As plasma treatment exhibits goodbacterial reduction% for both positive & nigative bac-teria, it can be a better solution for the medical appli-cation. The results infer that apart from the plasmatreatment, natural mordant and pigment also influencesthe pathogenic bacterial reduction to a greater extent.

Table 3.2 : K/S value of plasma pretreated dyed samples

Sample K/S value

Untreated sample 0.337

Plasma 15 sec 0.531

treated 45 sec 0.478

sample 80 sec 0.411

Table 3.3 : Color Fastness values of plasma pretreated dyedsamples

Sample Wash Rubbing Lightfastness fastness fastness

Untreated sample 2-3 3-4 2-3

Plasma 15 sec 4-5 4- 5 7-8

treated 45 sec 3-4 3-4 5-6

sample 80 sec 2-3 3-4 4-5

Table 3.4 : Antibacterial activity of plasma pretreated dyedsamples

Sample Bacterial reduction (%)

Escherichia Staphylococcuscoli aureus

Untreated 45% 48%sample

Plasma 15 sec 47% 50%

treated 45 sec 43% 41%

sample 80 sec 44% 47%

3.4 Characterization of pigment from thermomyces

Figure 3.1 : UV-Vis Spectra of extracted fungal pigment

From the Figure 3.1, the optical density of the pigmentextract was determined in a wide range of spectrausing a UV-Visible spectrometer and the absorbancewas recorded. The spectrum shows that the maximumabsorbance of the specimen between 250-300 nm whichconfirms the presence of protein and carbohydrategroups in the fungal pigment.

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Figure 3.2 : FTIR absorption spectra

From the following Fig 3.2, the absorption in the region3000-3500 cm confirms the presence of N-H (str)group. The absorption in the region 1500-1750 cmconfirms the presence of C=O (str) group. Hence, fromthe observation the affinity of sample towards proteinfibres was confirmed.

4. Conclusion100% silk fabric was given low temperature plasmatreatment with different durations and colored using thenatural fungal extract thermomyces and the effect ofcoloring behavior, fastness results and antibacterialactivity were analyzed. The report was focused on thesurface modification of silk fabric using low tempera-ture plasma treatment for improvement in dye fixationlevels of natural fungal extracted pigment and antibac-terial efficacy of silk fabric. It was concluded that thelow temperature plasma treatment improves the K/S,wash fastness, rubbing fastness, light fastness andbacterial reduction (%) of silk fabric to a greater ex-tent. The results showed that the low temperatureplasma pretreated silk fabric exhibit better results thanuntreated silk fabric specimen. Colour strength, colourfastness ratings and antimicrobial activity were foundto be good for 15sec plasma pretreated silk fabriccompared to 45 and 80s treated samples. Hence, plasma

treated samples does not show any influence with in-crease in the treatment time & the process proves tobe more eco-friendly in nature and it can be used formedical application to develop wound dressing, facemask, sutures & surgical drapes.

References

1. Gulrajani, M.L., Present status of natural dyes, in"Convention on natural dyes" (IIT Delhi), 10,(2002).

2. Perumal, K. and Stalin V., Extraction and charac-terization of pigments from Sclerotinia sp. and itsuse in dyeing cotton", Text Res J, 79, (2009).

3. Akira S. and Hiroe Y., Isolation of bacteria pro-ducing bluish- purple pigment and use for dyeing,Text Res J, 67, (2005).

4. Naoko T. and Sanae C., Magenta pigment pro-duced by fungus, J Gen. Appl. Microbial, 52,201, (2006).

5. Anna Maria G. and Diana De S., Assessment ofdyeing properties of pigments from Monascuspurpureu, J chem. technol. Biotechnol, (2005).

6. Palanivel V. and Vellingiri B., Natural pigment ex-traction from five filamentous fungi for industrialapplications and dyeing of leather, CarbohydratePolymers, (2009).

7. Rekbay S.M., Ecofriendly dyeing of natural fab-rics, J of Tex Inst, 1, (2008).

8. Baranova M. and Burdova., Effect of natural pig-ment of Monascus purpureus on the organolepticcharacters of processed cheeses, (BVI Pulawy),48, (2004).

9. Perumal K. and Stanley A., Extraction and dyeingperformance of fungal pigment from ganodermalucidum, coriolus versicolor & amanita muscaria,J Mycol Pl. Pathol, 34(2), 214.

10. Tabloka W. and Yongsmith B., Culture conditionsfor yellow pigments formation by monascus sp,World J Microbial, 63, 2671, (1997).

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1. IntroductionTextile material (natural and synthetic) is coloured forvalue addition, look and desire of the customers. In thepast, this purpose of colouring textile was initiated usingcolours of natural source until synthetic colours/dyeswere invented and commercialized. Due to ready avail-ability of pure synthetic dyes of different types and itscost advantages, most of textile dyers/ manufacturersshifted towards use of synthetic colourants. Almost allthe synthetic colourants being synthesized from petro-chemical sources through hazardous chemical processespose concerns regarding their eco-friendliness. Hence,worldwide, growing consciousness about organic valueof eco-friendly products is being generated and a re-newed interest of consumers towards use of textiles(preferably natural fibre product) dyed with eco-friendlynatural dyes is on the rise. Vedas mentioned red, yel-low, blue, black and white as main dyeing colours andexpressed that, the ancient craftsman dyed blue formindigo, yellow from turmeric and saffron, brown fromcutch and red from lac, safflower and madder. Thus,

natural dyes have been an integral part of human lifesince time immemorial [1-8].

Natural dyes are derived from naturally occurringsources such as plants (e.g., indigo and saffron); in-sects (e.g., cochineal beetles and lac scale insects);animals (e.g., some species of mollusks or shellfish);and minerals (e.g., ferrous sulfate, ochre, and clay)without any chemical treatment. A spectrum of beau-tiful natural colours ranging from yellow to black existsin the above sources [9-11].

The development of synthetic dyes at the beginning ofthe twentieth century led to a more complete level ofquality and more reproducible techniques of applica-tion. As a result, a distinct lowering in the dyestuffcosts per kg of dyed goods was achieved [12].

But, during the last few decades, the use of syntheticdyes is gradually receding due to an increased environ-mental awareness and harmful effects because of ei-ther toxic degraded products or their non-biodegradablenature. In addition to above, some serious health haz-ards like allergenicity and, carcinogenecity are associ-ated with some of the synthetic dyes. As a result, a

Self & Mixed Shades of Catechu and Henna on Cotton andSilk using Harda as a Mordant

M.D Teli*, Javed Sheikh, Kushalkumar Mahalle, Vijendra Labade Department of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, I.C.T.,

& Rupa TrivediAdiv-The Pure Natural

AbstractFrom ancient times natural dyes are known, but they are again gaining increasing importance due toincrease in awareness about sustainable environment protection and problems associated with syntheticdyes. Even though the natural dyeing has been advantageous in many ways over synthetic dyes, theirlimited availability of shades is hailed as one of the main limitations over synthetic dyes. Mixing of dyesto get desired shades is a common practice in case of synthetic dyes, which is however still notpracticed as far as natural dyes are concerned. In the current study, the natural dyeing of cotton andsilk was attempted using individual and mixed shades of catechu and henna using harda (Myrobalan)as a natural mordant. The pH sensitivity of these dyes was also screened. The various shades obtainedwere described in terms of colour values. The wide range of shades thus can be claimed in dyeing thecompound shades of natural dyes and the issue of limited availability of shades can be overcomefollowing this approach.

KeywordsHarda, Catechu, Henna, Natural dyeing.

*All correspondence should be addressed to:M.D. Teli,Department of Fiber & Textile Processing TechnologyI.C.T., N.P. Marg, Matunga, Mumbai.E-mail : md.teli@ictmumbai.edu.in

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ban has been imposed all over the world includingEuropean Economic Community (EEC), Germany, USAand India on the use of some synthetic dyes (e.g.azodyes) containing banned amines [13]. Due to in-creasing awareness of environmental issues and pollu-tion controls, natural dyes are gaining importance asthey are obtained from renewable resources and theypresent no health hazards and some of them sometimesact as a health care products [14].

Natural dyes with few exceptions are non-substantiveand hence must be used in conjunction with mordantssuch as tannins, metallic salts and oils [15]. In thedyeing of textiles with natural dyes, tannins are used asnatural mordants which are high molecular weightcompounds (between 500 to 3000) containing phenolichydroxyl groups and they enable effective cross-linksbetween proteins and other macromolecules. The sta-bility of the tannin treated fibre depends upon the pH,ionic strength and metal chelators. Tannins may befurther classified into two groups on the basis of theirchemical structure as hydrolysable tannins and con-densed tannins [16].

Dyeing with henna is known for long time. Henna hasmany traditional and commercial uses, the most com-mon being as a dye for hair, skin and fingernails, a dyeand preservative for leather and cloth, and as an anti-fungal. For colouration purpose, henna material is gen-erally pasted with water and applied to that part whichis to be dyed. It acts like a substantive dye for keratinand imparts an orange-red colour. In combination withmetal salts, it produces a range of colours on wool andsilk; camel brown with aluminium, yellow ochre withcopper, mustard yellow with chrome and blackish brownwith ferrous. The light fastness of dyed fabrics is good[17].

Catechu is a brown dye named as cutch and used fortanning and dyeing and for preserving fishing nets andsails. Cutch dyes wool, silk, and cotton in a yellowish-brown colour. Cutch gives gray-browns with an ironmordant and olive-browns with a copper mordant. Eventhough natural dyeing is considered to be ecofriendly,the use of metallic mordants which are considered tobe toxic, lowers natural dye's ecofriendly advantage.Even though a lot of research has been carried out onnatural dyeing of textile fibres using variety of naturaldyes and the mordants, the area of mixing of naturaldyes to get different shades is still remained unex-plored. The self and mixed shades of catechu and henna

using alum as a mordant were reported earlier fromour laboratory [18]. In continuation of the work, in thecurrent study the natural dyeing of cotton and silk hasbeen attempted using harda as a mordant both in selfand compound shades of catechu and henna and thewide range of shades explored have been presented.

2. Material and Methods2.1. MaterialsCotton and silk fabrics were supplied by Adiv-the PureNatural. The cotton fabric was washed using shikakaiand reetha at 600C and then used for dyeing. Catechuand henna were purchased from market. All otherchemicals used were of laboratory grade.

2.2. Methods2.2.1. Extraction of mordantThe 1% stock solution was made by boiling 2.5 gm ofmordant (harda) powder in 250 ml water for 30 min.The extract was filtered and made to 250ml and usedfor mordanting.

2.2.2. Extraction of dyeThe 1% stock solution of the dye was prepared byboiling 2.5 g of dye in 250 ml water for 30 min. Theextract was filtered and made to 250ml and used fordyeing.

2.2.3. Mordanting and dyeing of cotton and silkThe modanting of cotton and silk fabric was carried outin rota dyer (Rota Dyer machine, Rossari® Labtech,Mumbai) keeping the liquor to material ratio of 30:1.Thefabrics were introduced into the mordant solution (harda)at room temperature and slowly the temperature wasraised to 95oC. The mordanting was continued at thistemperature for 60 min. After mordanting the fabricwas squeezed and dyed using natural dyes (catechuand henna). The mordanted fabrics were introduced indyebath and dyeing was continued at 900C for 60 min.After dyeing, the fabrics were squeezed and washedwith cold water.

2.2.4. Compound shades on cotton and silkIn case of compound shades, the fabrics weremordanted using alum as a mordant as per the proce-dure mentioned in 2.2.3. The mordanted samples werethen dyed using combination of two dyes catechu andhenna taken in proportion 30:70, 50:50, and 70:30 of thetotal dye extract required for the targeted % shade.The dyeing procedure was same as described in 2.2.3.

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2.2.5. Effect of pH on dyeing of Catechu andHennaIn the case of pH sensitivity study of the natural dye,the fabric samples were mordanted using alum as amordant in the same way as mentioned in 2.2.3. Thedyeing was then carried out using same procedure asmentioned in 2.2.3.and using catechu and henna atdifferent pH (4, 7, and 9 adjusted using acetic acid andsoda ash).

2.2.6. Colour value by reflectance methodThe dyed samples were evaluated for the depth ofcolour by reflectance method using 10 degree observer.The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured onRayscan Spectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectanceaccessories. The K/S values were determined usingexpression;

(1-R) 2K/S =

2R

where, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K isthe Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coef-ficient

Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in termsof CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values usingthe Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+. In general, the higherthe K/S value, the higher the depth of the colour on thefabric. L* corresponding to the brightness (100= white,0= black), a* to the red-green coordinate (+ve= red, -ve =green) and b* to the yellow-blue coordinate (+ve=yellow, -ve =blue). As a whole, a combination of allthese parameters enables one to understand the tonalvariations.

2.2.7. Washing fastnessEvaluation of colour fastness to washing was carriedout using ISO II methods [19]. A solution containing 5g/L soap solution was used as the washing liquor. Thesamples were treated for 45 min at 50 0C using liquorto material ratio of 50:1 in rota machine. After rinsingand drying, the change in colour of the sample andstaining on the undyed samples were evaluated on therespective standard scales (rating 1:5; where 1: poor; 2:fair; 3: good; 4: very good and 5: excellent).

2.2.8. Light fastnessDyed fabric was tested for colourfastness to light ac-cording to ISO 105/B02 [20]. The light fastness was

determined using artificial illumination with Xenon arclight source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with blackstandard temperature of 65 0C with relative humidityof the air in the testing chamber as 40% and daylightfilter, wavelength, k= 420 nm. The samples were com-pared with the standard scale of blue wool reading(ratings, 1:8; where 1 : poor; 2 : fair; 3 :moderate; 4 :good; 5 : better; 6 : very good; 7 : best and 8:excellent).The colour fastness to light was measuredusing test method.

3. Results and DiscussionThe initial attempt was to find the optimum concentra-tion of mordant and dye to further study further theeffect of mixing of dyes and pH sensitivity of the dye.Hence the dyeing of cotton and silk with catechu andhenna using harda as a mordant was attempted andresults are summarized in Tables 3.1-3.4. The results inTable 3.1 indicate the increase in K/S values with theincreasing concentration of mordant till 15% and thenit is leveled off. At the constant mordant concentration,the K/S was also found to be improving with increasein dye concentration from 5% to 20%. The variousshades from light to deep can be obtained using thevarying concentration of alum and natural dyes bothcatechu and henna. The colour value in the case ofnatural dyes is a combined contribution of the effect ofmordant and the dye. Hence the K/S was improvedwith mordant and dye concentration initially till theoptimum was reached. The increasing concentration ofeither mordant or dye beyond optimum concentrationdid not contribute much in the improvement in K/Svalues. In the case of silk fabrics, the K/S values werehigher than those in cotton. This might be because ofhigher mordant and dye absorption by the silk fabricthan cotton, which is in turn was due to presence of -NH2 groups in the silk which have more affinity forsuch mordant dyes. Since the different results wereobtained in case of catechu and henna, the optimumconcentration of harda and dyes were taken as 20%and 20% respectively in case of mixing of dyes.

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Table 3.1: Effect of mordant (harda) and dye (Henna) concen-tration on colour strength of silk

Mordant Dye Colour CIEcolour co-ordi natesvalue

Alum Henna K/S L* a* b*5% 5% 1.3651 68.116 2.941 14.34

5% 10% 1.3651 68.116 2.941 14.34

5% 15% 1.9353 69.545 4.572 17.413

5% 20% 2.0235 69.21 4.491 16.925

10% 5% 2.7363 68.993 3.161 14.842

10% 10% 2.1326 70.898 3.082 16.883

10% 15% 3.9133 71.205 3.352 17.813

10% 20% 3.1236 70.417 3.842 17.16815% 5% 3.5648 68.959 2.872 14.285

15% 10% 2.7605 70.74 3.08 16.601

15% 15% 2.7769 71.946 3.804 18.311

15% 20% 3.1204 72.413 3.614 18.638

20% 5% 2.9208 72.666 2.167 17.24

20% 10% 3.4945 71.696 2.796 16.553

20% 15% 4.2269 70.441 3.243 15.749

20% 20% 4.5659 72.321 3.445 18.174

Table 3.2: Effect of mordant (harda) and dye (catechu) con-centration on colour strength of silk

Mordant Dye Colour CIEcolour co-ordinatesHarda Catechu value

K/S L* a* b*

5% 5% 1.0675 71.307 4.52 16.564

5% 10% 1.8807 73.929 4.232 19.227

5% 15% 2.3413 74.732 4.132 19.83

5% 20% 3.4147 75.664 4.052 20.567

10% 5% 1.5076 72.697 4.878 18.98

10% 10% 2.04 74.508 3.644 19.049

10% 15% 3.0036 75.267 4.566 21.243

10% 20% 2.9972 75.349 4.253 20.781

15% 5% 1.1214 72.16 4.106 17.226

15% 10% 1.8854 74.369 3.395 18.465

15% 15% 2.7664 72.643 4.713 21.248

15% 20% 3.3764 72.992 5.033 21.923

20% 5% 1.7442 69.957 6.501 19.338

20% 10% 1.7514 71.427 4.242 19.584

20% 15% 3.3173 72.806 4.637 21.285

20% 20% 3.4709 73.494 4.468 21.659

Table 3.3: Effect of mordant (harda) and dye (henna) concen-tration on colour strength of cotton

Mordant Dye Colour CIE colour co-ordinatesvalue

Harda Henna K/S L* a* b*

5% 5% 1.2958 69.653 0.633 13.542

5% 10% 1.2884 69.183 1.181 13.582

5% 15% 1.5592 69.46 1.27 13.954

5% 20% 1.3627 70.556 0.315 14.215

10% 5% 1.388 69.18 1.442 13.889

10% 10% 1.3813 69.746 0.916 14.092

10% 15% 1.4508 69.837 1.131 14.352

10% 20% 1.5712 69.418 1.696 14.286

15% 5% 1.3931 69.388 0.917 13.621

15% 10% 1.4494 70.092 0.917 14.287

15% 15% 1.3617 69.571 1.235 14.027

15% 20% 1.6863 69.471 1.465 14.255

20% 5% 1.6197 70.228 0.703 14.264

20% 10% 1.543 69.647 1.161 14.074

20% 15% 1.5538 69.462 1.583 14.222

20% 20% 1.6933 69.569 1.777 14.434

Table 3 4: Effect of mordant (harda) and dye (catechu) con-centration on colour strength of cotton

Mordant Dye Colour CIEcolour co-ordinatesHarda Catechu value

K/S L* a* b*5% 5% 2.6033 57.283 10.728 18.667

5% 10% 1.8147 57.689 9.021 17.811

5% 15% 2.9036 57.858 12.878 20.164

5% 20% 1.717 59.453 6.941 18.941

10% 5% 2.1413 59.497 8.89 20.234

10% 10% 2.3735 58.121 9.253 18.979

10% 15% 3.4222 58.258 11.145 20.212

10% 20% 1.7684 59.304 6.413 18.16515% 5% 2.3438 59.482 8.35 20.082

15% 10% 1.7252 59.291 6.893 18.623

15% 15% 2.654 59.363 9.501 19.893

15% 20% 1.9641 60.196 6.739 19.125

20% 5% 2.6168 59.669 7.967 19.521

20% 10% 2.3949 58.876 8.218 18.778

20% 15% 2.9446 58.935 8.899 19.399

20% 20% 1.7252 59.611 6.854 18.579

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The compound shades on cotton and silk using combi-nations of catechu and henna with harda as a mordantare summarized in Table 3.5.

Table 3.5: Effect of combination of two dyes (w/w) on colourstrength of silk and Cotton

Fabric Henna Catechu K/S L* a* b*

Silk 30% 70% 4.3594 59.398 9.767 27.361

50% 50% 4.2312 58.268 9.506 27.514

70% 30% 3.9368 56.957 11.348 26.461

Cotton 30% 70% 6.3655 58.412 17.036 16.099

50% 50% 5.096 58.89 17.033 16.532

70% 30% 3.6634 59.757 10.731 15.526

The results clearly indicate increase in K/S value asconcentration of catechu was increased at the cost ofhenna. However the different tones in the shades wereobtained ranging from typical red of henna to brown ofcatechu.

The effect of pH on dyeing of cotton and silk withcatechu and henna dyes and harda as mordant (withoptimum concentration) was studied and the results aresummarized in Table 3.6.

Table 3.6: Effect of pH on colour strength of silk and cotton

Fabric Dye pH K/S L* a* b*

Silk Henna 4 5.5463 59.116 5.43 22.19

Henna 7 4.3932 57.849 5.091 21.216

Henna 9 3.2549 57.981 4.533 21.712

Catechu 4 5.3519 60.347 10.399 32.778

Catechu 7 5.4159 59.358 11.238 30.663

Catechu 9 6.9318 54.394 8.53 25.453

Cotton Henna 4 1.3253 58.621 4.794 15.928

Henna 7 1.4016 59.215 5.257 16.326

Henna 9 1.6223 57.627 5.239 14.655

Catechu 4 4.2349 55.662 13.285 16.598

Catechu 7 4.0475 57.558 15.841 18.728

Catechu 9 2.0322 61.64 8.14 18.783

At different pH conditions different values of K/S wereobtained and it was observed that in acidic conditionsi.e. at pH 4, higher K/S values were obtained com-pared to those at pH 7 and pH 9. The acidic as wellas neutral pH were more suitable for enhanced K/Svalues.

The fastness properties of the representative sampleswere estimated and are presented in Table 3.7.

Table 3.7: Fastness properties of the dyed fabrics

Fabric Henna Catechu Washing Rubbing Light(%) (%) Fastness fastness fastness

Dry Wet

Silk 0 100 4-5 4 3 6

30 70 4 4 3 6

50 50 4 4 3-4 6

70 30 4 4 3-4 6

100 0 4 4-5 3-4 5

Cotton 0 100 4 4 3 6

30 70 4 4 3-4 6

50 50 4 4-5 3-4 6

70 30 4 4-5 3-4 5

100 0 4 4-5 3-4 5

The wash fastness was of the grade "very good" to"excellent" (4-5). The rubbing fastness was in the rangeof "good" to "excellent" (3-5). The fastness propertieswere found to be comparable in the case of both thedyes and their mixtures. The fastness properties wereimproved with increasing mordant concentrations. Theimprovements in fastness properties with mordant con-centration clearly indicate the positive role of mordantplayed in case of dyeing with natural dyes. The wash-ing fastnesses obtained varied in the range of good toexcellent grade. Light fastness was found to be im-proving with higher K/S values, which in turn wasdependant on higher mordant and/or dye concentration.

4. ConclusionCompound shades are obtained using combinations ofdyes such as henna and catechu and harda mordant.The results are encouraging as wide range of shadegamut was obtained. Effect of pH on colour depths ofdifferent dyes and mordant combination is also studiedand encouraging results were obtained and differentshades were possible to obtain at different pH. Thefastness properties seemed to have remained unchangedeven with the use of combination of dyes.

References

1. Samanta, A. K. and Konar, A., Dyeing of Textileswith Natural Dyes, Department of Jute and Fi-bre Technology, Institute of Jute Technology,University of Calcutta, India.

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2. Kadolph, S., The Delta Kappa Gamma Bulletin,75 (1), 14-17, (2008).

3. Chengaiah, B., Rao, K.M., Kumar, K.M.,Alagusundaram, M., Chetty, C.M., InternationalJournal of PharmTech Research, 2(1), 144-154,(2010).

4. Saravanan, P. and Chandramohan ,G., UniversalJournal of Environmental Research and Tech-nology, 1(3), 268-273, (2008).

5. Kumaresan, M., Palanisamy, P. N. and Kumar,P. E., International Journal of Chemistry Re-search, 2(1), 11-14, (2011).

6. Gulrajani, M. L. and Gupta, D., Introduction toNatural Dyes (Indian Institute of Technology,Delhi), (1992).

7. Anderson, B., Creative Spinning, Weaving andPlant Dyeing, Angus and Robinson publications,24?28, (1971).

8. Gupta, S.S., Clothsline, 6(12), 97, (1993).9. Sasson, A, Australasian Biotechnology, 3(4),

200-204, (1993).10. Vankar, P., Chemistry of Natural Dyes (IIT,

Kanpur), (2000).

11. Ladda, K S., A Text Book of Pharmacogonosy,3rd Ed., Vrinda publications, 213, (2003).

12. Bechtold, T., Turcanu, A., Ganglberger, E., Geissler,S., Journal of Cleaner Production, 11, 499-509,(2003).

13. Kumary, J. K. and Sinha, A.K., Natural ProductLetters, 18(1), 59-84, (2004).

14. Prabhu, K.H., Teli, M.D. and Waghmare, N., Fi-bers and Polymers, 12(6), 753-759, (2011).

15. Vankar, P.S., Resonance, 5 (10), 73-80, 2000.16. Khanbabaee, K. and Van Ree, T., Natural Prod-

uct Reports, 18, 641-649, (2001).17. http://www.underutilized-species.org/species/bro-

chures/Henna_.pdf, assessed on 15th June 2012.18. Teli, M. D., Sheikh, J., Mahale, K., Labade, V.

and Trivedi, R., Asian Dyer, Accepted paper.19. Trotmann, E.R., Dyeing and Chemical Technology

of Textile Fibres, England: Charles Griffin andCompany ltd., (1984).

20. ISO technical manual, Geneva, Switzerland, (2006).�����

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68th ALL INDIA TEXTILE CONFERENCEThe Textile Association (India) - Mumbai Chapter is hosting 68th All India Textile Conference in associationwith TAI Central Office on 30th November & 1st December 2012 (Friday & Saturday) at Hotel InternationalGrand Maratha Sahar Road, Andheri (E), Mumbai.

Conference will provide a Double Treat to the textile professionals as it will coincide with the India-ITMEExhibition, which will be held from 2nd to 7th December 2012. This will be wonderful opportunity to thosewho intends to visit India ITME Exhibition to listen to global experts as well senior textile magnets includingbeaurocrates, who will be specially visiting for attending India-ITME Exhibition. The Conference will covertopics and panel discussions which hitherto not covered so far.

TAI appeals for active participation by way of;• Accepting to be Sponsor or Patron to this event

• Inserting the advertisement in the Souvenir & Book of Papers

• Encouraging maximum friends to register as delegates

For more details contact

THE TEXTILE ASSOCIATION (INDIA)The Textile Association (India)

Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India,67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 (India)

Tel.: +91 22 24461145 Fax: +91 22 24474971Mail: taicnt@gmail.com

www.textileassociationindia.org

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1. IntroductionWith the elimination of all remaining quotas of MultiFiber Agreement (MFA) in textiles and garments fromJanuary 1, 2005, the textile and garment industries havenow fully integrated into the WTO. Now, buyers arefree to source textiles and garments in any amountfrom any country. Suppliers are free to export as muchas they are able, subjected only to a system of nationaltariff. As a result, the garment trade offers opportuni-ties as well as challenges to various players in theworld textile and clothing market. In this scenario, jobof garment producers has become challenging. Thegrowing domestic and international competition has puta lot of pressure on the manufacturer to produce gar-ments with a competitive price by increasing the pro-ductivity. Therefore, the need is to lead the company inthe continuous improvement by enhancing the produc-tivity. This improvement is also required to measurecontinuously and compare with the benchmarks tounderstand how much improvement has taken placeand their individual rank in comparison with the topperformer. One of the ways of doing this could beestimating the productivity and efficiency of the com-

pany relative to the other companies.

Although, the manufacturers are aware of the signifi-cance of productivity improvement but the data onproductivity is not often available. They also find thecollection and recording of productivity data, its mea-surement and report an additional paper work. Most ofthe Indian companies are not maintaining the productiv-ity data. Garment manufacturers internationally preferto use partial factor productivity (PFP) measures likelabor and machine productivity [1]. Productivities oflabor and machine are defined as number of garmentsproduced per operator per shift and number of gar-ments produced per machine per shift, respectively.Earlier studies on Indian garment industry [2, 3, 4, 5, 6]have also used this approach to measure the perfor-mance.

In fact, in garment production, essential inputs requiredare machine operators, stitching machines, fabric andother raw materials, electric power and fuel. PFP cannot consider these input bundles altogether. Therefore,the concept of total factor productivity (TFP) is moreappropriate in context of resource use efficiency. It isan index of output bundle divided by an index of inputbundle and refers to the change in the productivity overtime. When it is measured using cross sectional data ata time it is called as efficiency and when over a period

Efficiency and Productivity Analysis of the Indian GarmentIndustry During MFA Phase-Out and Post Period

R. N. JoshiDepartment of Textile Technology,

SGGS Institute of Engineering & Technology

AbstractThe recent globalization scenario has put a lot of pressure on the garment manufacturers to producegarments with a competitive price by increasing the productivity. In this scenario, they have to evaluatetheir performance continuously and compare with the benchmarks. Generally, the numbers of garmentsproduced per operator and per machine are used as productivity measures. As these measures do notconsider all input-output bundles together, the linear programming based Data Envelopment Analysistechnique, which takes into account the weighted sum of all outputs and inputs to measure the efficiencyand productivity of any decision-making entity, has been applied in this paper to estimate the productivityand efficiency of the Indian garment companies during Multi Fibre Agreement phase out and postperiod.

KeywordsData envelopment analysis garment industry, Malmquist productivity index, Multi fibre agreement, Tech-nical efficiency.

* All correspondence should be addressed to:R. N. JoshiDepartment of Textile TechnologySGGS Institute of Engineering & Technology NandedE-mail: rnjoshitextile@yahoo.co.in

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of time using panel data called as productivity. Theefficiency measured is static in nature, as the perfor-mance of a garment company is evaluated in referenceto best practice in a given year. DEA based Charnes,Cooper and Rhodes [7] (CCR) and Banker, Charnesand Cooper [8] (BCC) models are widely used to mea-sure the efficiency. It is essential to measure the shiftof frontier over time. To account for this dynamic shiftin frontier, the Malmquist Productivity Index (MPI)developed by Fare [9] et al. (1994) is the most suitabletechnique to measure the TFP.

This Data Envelopment Analysis (DEA) based MPIhas been widely accepted as a good tool for measure-ment of TFP change of manufacturing industries. Manyresearchers have extensively applied this technique forthe measurement of TFP change and its components inthe manufacturing industry viz. China's iron and steelindustry [10], Spinning mills in India [11], Chinese StateEnterprises [12], Taiwan's science park [13], Austra-lian private sector industries [14], Greek manufacturingsector [15], Indian food industry [16] and Indian textileindustry [17,18]. Therefore, in the present study, theMPI technique is used to estimate the TFP growth andCCR and BCC DEA models have used to estimate thetechnical efficiency of the garment companies in India.

2. MethodologyThere are some important non-computational aspectsin the application of DEA. These are data selection,variable selection and model selection, which have beendiscussed briefly in this section.

2.1. Data SelectionIn India, PROWESS and Capitaline databases includedata on a large number of manufacturing companies,including garment companies. These sources have bal-ance-sheet based financial data of the individual com-panies. The company level panel-data is only availablewith PROWESS and Capitaline databases. Both thedatabases are similar one and based on annual reports.Earlier studies[11, 16, 19, 20] have also used the PROW-ESS and Capitaline data to estimate the productivityand efficiency of Indian industries.

Keeping all limitations in view, we have obtained thedata from CAPITALINE database of Capital MarketIndia. It is an independent economic database which isavailable at http://www.capitaline.com. It has five mod-ules like Capitaline (CPL) plus, CPL-TP, CPL- News,CPL-NAV and CPL-CSS. The CPL-plus module has

the data on 994 Indian textile companies which havebeen classified under 23 sectors. Garment industry isone of the sectors of the textile industry and the dataon 109 garment companies is available with the CPL-plus. Out of 109 companies, 40 textile garment compa-nies were selected according to availability of data forthe period 1999-2008. The ten years period 1999-2008has been selected to see how the Indian garment com-panies have progressed in the MFAIII-phase (1999-2001), MFAIV-phase (2002-2004), MFA-phase out(1999-2004) and MFA-post period (2005-2008).

2.2. Variable selectionIn earlier DEA studies on manufacturing industry, twooutputs viz. value of output [12, 21, 22, 23] and valueadded [14, 24, 16, 25, 26] have been most commonlyused by the researchers. In the present study, we haveused value of output as an output variable since netvalue added is used only when inputs are labour andcapital. The value of output considers all inputs likeemployee, capital and intermediate inputs. In the gar-ment industry, intermediate inputs like fabrics and power& fuel are also important inputs. Hence, value of out-put is a proper output-variable for this industry. In orderto account for all inputs in the productivity calculations,plant & machinery, wages & salaries, raw materialconsumption, and power & fuel consumption are con-sidered as input variables. Similar output and inputvariables have been used by the earlier studies[19, 20,21, 22] on Indian manufacturing industry for perfor-mance evaluation using DEA. The variable, wages andsalaries has been selected in place of number of em-ployees since the Capitaline database do not providethe physical data on output and inputs. We have takenthese financial data as the next best alternative. InDEA studies the wages and salaries are also used bythe earlier researchers [16, 18, 20].

2.3. Model selectionThe characteristics of garment industry are employ-ment generation, foreign exchange earnings, massiveexport and domestic market. Now-a-days, majority ofpopulation in urban and rural areas go for readymadegarments and the domestic market is large as thou-sands of units are serving it. Keeping in view the grow-ing domestic and export markets for the Indian gar-ment industry, the companies have to maximize thegarment production using existing inputs, so output-ori-ented model is more appropriate in the Indian contextHere, we use the output-oriented CCR, BCC and MPImodels.

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2.3.1. Data Envelopment AnalysisFirstly, this paper applies DEA technique to measurethe technical efficiency of the garment companies inIndia. We use both CCR and BCC models to estimateoverall technical efficiency (OTE), pure technical effi-ciency (PTE) and scale efficiency (SE). Lots of litera-ture is available for mathematical details of DEA, [27,28, 29].

2.3.2. Malmquist Productivity IndexRecently, DEA based MPI has become popular ap-proach to measure the TFP in the Indian manufacturingindustry [16, 17, 18, 25]. This method is applied toestimate the TFP change (TFPCH), efficiency change(EFCH), technological change (TECHCH), scale effi-ciency change (SECH) and pure technical efficiencychange (PEFCH). Here the TFP can be written as,

TFPCH = EFCH X TECHCH = PEFCH x SECH x TECHCH

The above indices can be interpreted as progress, nochange and regress when their values are greater thanone, equal to one and less than one, respectively. Formathematical formulation of MPI, please refer Cooperet al. [27], Coelli et al. [28] et al and Ramanathan [29].In the analysis, the productivity and TFP have beenused synonymously. The TFP growth rate can be es-timated as,

TFP Growth (percent) = (TFPCH - 1) x 100

3. Empirical findingsIn this section, we have discussed the results obtainedby CCR, BCC and MPI models to measure technicalefficiency and productivity growth. While the funda-mental component of MPI is related to measures oftechnical efficiency related to the production frontiers,we first discuss the year-wise efficiency scores underconstant returns to scale and variable returns to scale

and this is followed by the changes in productivitycalculated by MPI model.

3.1. Efficiency analysisThe trends in overall technical efficiency, pure techni-cal efficiency, scale efficiency, number of efficientcompanies and number of companies showing constantreturns to scale (CRS), increasing returns to scale (IRS)and decreasing returns to scale (DRS) have been shownin the Figures 3.1 to 3.3 Average efficiency scores aregiven in Table 3.1

It is observed that the mean technical efficiency of thegarment companies is 85 percent during 1999-2008,implying that the companies have produced 15 percentlesser outputs in comparison with the best productionfrontier. Looking at MFAIII and MFAIV phase-outperiod, the overall technical efficiency has decreasedfrom 85 percent to 83 percent and again, it has in-creased to 86 percent in the MFA-post period. It sug-gests that the efficiency of the garment companies hasimproved in the MFA-post period in comparison withthe MFA-phase out period. It could be due to removalof restrictions on garment trade from 1st January 2005.In addition to this, major markets like USA, Europe andCanada have opened their markets for garment importsfrom 1st January 2005. These markets are major mar-kets for the Indian textile and clothing export. Whenlooking at the annual average pure technical efficiencyscores, average score is 90 percent, implying that com-panies are on average 10 percent pure technical inef-ficient. Further, it is examined whether companies haveimproved their efficiency by changing their plant-size.The DEA results show that companies are operating atan optimal scale-size with an average scale efficiencyof 95 percent. This implies that the companies have toadjust scale-size by 5 percent.

Table 3.1: Mean Efficiency Scores during MFA Phase out and MFA-post period

Year Efficiency scores No. of efficient No. of companies with companies their returns to scale

OTE PTE SE OTE PTE SE CRS IRS DRS1999-2001 (MFAIII) 0.85 0.90 0.95 14 21 15 14 18 18

2002-2004 (MFAIV) 0.83 0.88 0.94 13 22 14 13 17 20

1999-2004 MFA-phase out 0.84 0.89 0.95 13 22 14 13 18 19

2005-2008 MFA-post 0.86 0.90 0.95 15 24 17 15 12 23

1999-2008 0.85 0.90 0.95 14 23 16 14 15 21

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Figure 3.1 : Efficiency Trends in the Indian Garmentindustry

Additionally, DEA allows assessing whether a com-pany operates at constant returns to scale, increasingreturns to scale or decreasing returns to scale. It isobserved from Figure 3.3 that the numbers of CRScompanies have increased from 12 in 1999 to 18 in2006. It is because the to number of IRS companieshave reduced from 23 to 17 during the same period. Itsuggests that the companies have increased their pro-duction scale. The average investment in plant and ma-chinery per company has increased from Rs. 4.21 crorein 1999 to Rs. 4.46 crore in 2001. During this period,the National Textile Policy 2000 has removed the re-striction on investment in plant and machinery of thegarment industry. Prior to 2000, the industry was re-served for small-scale. In addition to this, TechnologyUp-gradation Fund Scheme has provided the bank loanto the industry at a lower interest rate to expand theirproduction capacity and to modernize the existing tech-nology.

Figure 3.2: Trends in Number of Efficient Companies

If we compare simultaneously Figure 3.1 and Figure3.2, it is observed that the number of scale efficientcompanies have increased from 12 in 1999 to 18 in2001 and largely the decline in number of companiesoperating at increasing returns to scale from 23 to 14during the same period. During 2001-2004, the num-bers of scale efficient companies had dropped from 18

in 2001 to 13 in 2004. At this stage, the industry wasat transition phase of MFA. After opening the majormarkets, again the numbers of scale efficient and PTEefficient companies have increased from 13 in 2004 to19 in 2006 which resulted to increase the overall tech-nical efficiency during this period. In 2007 and 2008,we find the declining trends in overall technical effi-ciency, pure technical efficiency, number of OTE, PTEand scale efficient companies, and number of compa-nies showing constant returns to scale and increasingreturns to scale. Ultimately, it has caused rapid increasein the number of decreasing returns to scale companiesduring this period. Initially the appreciation of rupeeagainst dollar has hit the garment industry in 2007 andthen the recession in USA and Europe markets haveaffected the growth and performance of the industry.

Figure 3.3 : Trends in Returns to Scale

Finally, we find that the industry was inefficient during1999-2008 in overall technical efficiency, pure technicalefficiency and scale efficiency by 15 percent, 10 per-cent and 5 percent. It suggests that the industry shouldfirst improve the managerial efficiency by proper allo-cation of inputs efficiently and then expand the plant-size to boost up the scale efficiency, which will resultin improvement in the overall performance of the com-panies.

3.2. Productivity analysisThis part of the analysis captures the dynamic aspectof performance of garment companies by incorporatingthe shift in the production frontier overtime. Figure 3.4and Figure 3.5 show the TFP growth and its decompo-sition during 1999-2008.

3.2.1. Productivity growth in the industryIt is observed that the industry have recorded a pro-ductivity growth of 1.6 percent per annum. While com-paring the productivity in MFA-phase out and MFA-

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post period, we find that the TFP has increased from1.6 percent to 1.7 percent. The productivity in thegarment companies records positive growth of 3.1percent and 5.0 percent in the year 2005 and 2006,respectively; while in the years 2007 and 2008, it showsthe negative growth rates. This suggests that the globalrecession has hit the industry during these years.

Figure 3.4 : Trends in Productivity Growth and itsComponents

The components of TFP change are efficiency changeand technological change. We did not find much differ-ence in the efficiency change between MFA-phase outand MFA-post periods. Looking at MFA-phase out andMFA-post period, we observe that the technologicalchange has declined in later period from 1.4 percent to1.0 percent. It is also observed that the number of IRScompanies have reduced from 18 in MFA-phase out to12 in MFA-post period which indicates that the compa-nies have expanded their existing production capacityto produce garments at large scale. This resulted posi-tive contribution of technological change to achieve thehigher TFP growth in the year 2005 and 2006. On theother side, the numbers of DRS efficient companieshave increased from 19 in MFA-phase out to 23 inMFA-post period. It was due to the global recession inthe year 2007 and 2008. Overall the technologicalchange has higher contribution to productivity growth incomparison the efficiency change during 1999-2008.

Figure 3.5 : Trends in Pure Technical Efficiency Changeand Scale Efficiency Change

Further, the efficiency change can be decomposed intopure technical efficiency change and scale efficiencychange as shown in Figure 3.5 To sum up, the Indian

garment companies have achieved a moderate TFPgrowth of 1.6 percent during the study period, in whichthe technological change has the highest contributionwith a progress rate of 1.4 percent and efficiencychange has progressed with only 0.6 percent annualgrowth rate. Further, decomposing the efficiency change,the pure technical efficiency change and scale effi-ciency change have almost equal contribution to thegrowth of the efficiency change.

4. ConclusionThe empirical results indicate that the pure technicalefficiency has largely affected the overall performanceof the garment companies in India during the period1999-2008. It is suggested that the garment companiesshould first improve the managerial efficiency by properallocation of inputs efficiently and then expand the plant-scale to boost-up the scale efficiency, which will resultin improvement in the overall performance. The dy-namic aspects of results indicate that the Indian gar-ment companies have achieved a moderate productiv-ity growth during the study period, in which the tech-nological change has the highest contribution than theefficiency change. Further, decomposing the efficiencychange, the pure technical efficiency change and scaleefficiency change have the almost equal contribution inthe growth of the efficiency change.

While comparing the productivity growths in MFA-phaseout and MFA-post period, we find that the productivityhas increased in the latter period slightly, the industryshows positive growth of productivity in the year 2005and 2006; and negative growth in the year 2007 and2008. It suggests that the global recession has hit theindustry in the year 2007 and 2008.The analysis showsthat there is not much difference in the efficiency changein MFA-phase out and MFA-post period. Looking atMFA-phase out and MFA-post period, the technologi-cal change has declined in the latter period.

References

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2. Bheda, R., Journal of Textile and Apparel, Tech3. Bheda R., Narag A. S. and Singla M. L., Journal

of Fashion and Marketing Management, 7 (1),4. Joshi P., Ishtiaque S. M. and Jain S. K., Asian

Textile Journal, December, 66, (2005).5. Rangrajan K., Foreign Trade Review, XXXIX

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(4), 3, (2005).6. Uchikawa S., Economic and Political Weekly,

XXXIV (48), M138, (1999).7. Charnes A., Cooper W. W. and Rhodes E., Euro-

pean Journal of Operational Research, 2 (6),429, (1978).

8. Banker R. D., Charnes A. and Cooper W. W.,Management Science, 30 (9), 1078, (1984).

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10. Ma J., Evans D. G., Fuller R. G. and Stewart D.F., International Journal of Production Eco-nomics, 76, 293, (2002).

11. Solankar P. G. and Singh, S. P., Productivity, 40(4), 567, (2000).

12. Zheng J., Liu X. and Bigsten Journal of Com-parative Economics, 31, 134, (2003).

13. Chen C. J., Wu H. L., and Lin B. W., Techno-logical Forcasting and Social Chnage, 73, 452,(2006).

14. Wadud I. K. M. and Paul S. P, The Indian Eco-nomic Journal, 54 (2), 144, (2006).

15. Halkos G. E. and Tzeremes N. G., InternationalBusiness Review, 16, 713, (2007).

16. Kumar M. and Basu P., International Journalof Productivity and Performance Management,57 (7), 503, (2008).

17. Joshi R. N. and Singh S. P., Journal of the Tex-tile Association, 68 (6), 242, (2008).

18. Singh S. P. and Agarwal S., The Indian Eco-nomic Journal, 54 (2), 59, (2006).

19. Majumdar S. K., Review of Industrial Organi-zation, 15, 165, (1999).

20. Saranga H., European Journal of OperationalResearch, 196 (2), 707, (2009).

21. Mukherjee K., Energy Policy, 36, 662, (2008).22. Mukherjee K. and Ray S. C., Indian Economic

Review, XXXX (2), 101, (2005).23. Yao C., International Journal of Production Eco-

nomics, 83, 27, (2003).24. Ahuja G. and Majumadar S. K., Journal of Pro-

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Envelopment Analysis: A Comprehensive Textwith Models, Applications, References andDEA-solver Software, Kluwer Academic Publish-ers: Boston, (2000).

28. Coelli T., Rao D. S. P. and Battese G. E., AnIntroduction to Efficiency and ProductivityAnalysis, Kluwer Academic Publishers, Massa-chusetts: USA, (2003).

29. Ramanathan R., An Introduction to Data Envel-opment Analysis, Sage Publication India Pvt. Ltd:New Delhi, (2003). � � � � � � ������

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1. Introduction1.1.Metal EmbroideryRajasthan has rich tradition and culture in its vast glo-rious history. Metal embroidery a popular style ofRajasthan, found its patron in royalty. They preferredgarments profusely embroidered in gold and silver be-cause embroidery was considered auspicious whichrepresents power and importance. The royalty were sofond of this style of ornamentation that they oftenemployed it on a wide range of articles other thanapparel, like footwear, belts, caps, cushions and evenelephant caparisons and canopies. The embroidery onthese garments is, sometimes, so extravagant that thesurface of the ground fabric cannot be discerned. Metalembroidery is largely of three kinds- Zardozi, Gotaworkand Danka work. Gold and silver are drawn through aseries of dies to obtain a fine thread. This can either behammered flat or used as it is, or it could also bewound around a silken or cotton filament core to makea thread. Nowadays, electroplating with other metalsalso achieves a similar effect [1].

1.2. Danke-ka-kaam A specialty of Udaipur, danke-ka-kaam is distinguishedby the use of a small; metallic square around which

zardozi is worked. The Danka is a small square plate,which varies in size but is not bigger than 1.5 cm.Although the danka was originally made of pure gold,but nowadays silver plated with gold dankas are used.Earlier, danka was also made with fine silver sheet,which was first warmed and then gold foil was appliedto its surface and pressed. Of late well-finished, pol-ished thin silver sheets of 98% purity are electroplatedwith gold in strips of 30 cm by 2.5 cm, then they arewashed in plain water and polished once again withfine granular sand. The strip is then cut into 1.25 cmsquares. The cost of danka is calculated according toits weight [2].

Maharana of Mewar used to decorate their garmentswith gold and silver embroidery to enhance the rich-ness of their wearing apparel used on auspicious occa-sion, festival and ceremonies. The designs for embroi-dery were mainly floral with leaves, petals and flowers.The range of article other than a wearing apparel wasvery wide and instead of high cost. It was used fordecorative footwear, cushions, belt, canopies, hooks etc.Leather, velvet, silk and cotton were used for embroi-dery. The accessories used by maharaja Jagat Singhwas also decorated with danka craft [3].

Danka work is usually worked on satin, chiffon or silkfabric. The fabric is stretched tightly on a wooden framebefore it is embroidered and the craftsman sits on thefloor. Danka pieces are laid out on the fabric as re-

Value Addition of the Products through TraditionalDanka Craft of Udaipur

Radha Kashyap, Sulekha Ojha* & Jyoti SoniDept of Garment Production & Export Management

ICG-The IIS University

AbstractDesign has an important role in economic and social change that does not stop at creating a new orbetter product. Design plays an important role in encouraging environmentally sustainable and economi-cally viable model of craft activity and help in the empowerment of marginalized groups, especially incases where income generation, social mobilization and community rehabilitation is needed. Designersacts as an interface between tradition and contemoprisation, helping match craft production to the needsof modernity. The present study deals with product development through Danka craft of Udaipur andto study the acceptability of value added products.

KeywordsDanka Craft, Udaipur, Product development, Designs, Acceptability.

*All Correspondence should be addressed to,Sulekha Ojha,ICG- The IIS UNiversity,Gurukul Marg, Mansarovar, JaipurE-mail : ojha.sulekha@gmail.com

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quired by the design. The danka is pierced with a needle,drawing the thread through the fabric. About three tofive strands of kasab (gold or silver wire) are placedover each danka and couched down along its edges. Itis secured with eight stitches in the shape of a knot.Two stitches go into the back, two at each corner andtwo at each corner and two on the front. Round andflat metal braids about one quarter of a centimeter inwidth are used to highlight the design. Additional stitchesare employed such as the chain stitch, satin stitch forthe design filling, while stem and running stitches arefor lighter work. The motifs that are used in dankawork are inspired by nature- like the paisley, the sunand the moon, peacock, flower, leaf and their varia-tions [4].

This traditional craft is usually practiced by Bohracommunity. During the rule of Rana Sajjan Singh, astrike was held by the businessmen of Udaipur, whichwas then not supported by the bohra community. Thus,the emperor had given all the promotional facilities' tothe Bohra community in the state. The Bohra commu-nity was engaged in doing danka and zari work on sarisand costumes for elite class and rulers of Udaipur [5].The development in traditional textiles is as essential asin other fields. Indian culture and its rich heritage arereflected in costumes and the embroideries of variousregions of the country. The Indian folk and traditionalembroideries play an important role in fashion world.As now a day's fashion trends are fragile and consum-ers constantly demand innovative changes over existingfashion fields.

The main objective of the study are:� To revive the art form by attempting to recreate on

different fabrics

� To differentiate the product from what was avail-able in the market

� Develop a marketable range of easy to produceutilarian products.

2. Materials and Methods2.1. Product DevelopmentA range of kurtis and other handicraft items i.e. pouch,ring case, bangle box & key chain were developedwith the use of artificial danka instead of the pure goldcoated silver. These products were developed to givea boost to creativity and to develop a new market.The steps followed for the development of product rangewere:

(A) Preparation of Designs: After taking inspiration fromthe traditional motifs of danka work, new designs wereprepared by the researcher for kurtis and articles suchas pouch, bangle box, ring case and keychain

(B) Assessment of Designs: The prepared designs werejudged by the panel of experts from field of textiles andfashion designing. Designs were selected and ranked.The data under each category was ranked on ratingperforma.

The scores were as under: Excellent = 5, Good = 4,Fair = 3, Average = 2, Poor = 1

(C) Selection of Fabric: The fabric selection was doneby keeping in mind the commonly used fabrics, theirquality, and suitability, requirement, according to the enduse of article. The color of fabric was also chosenaccordingly.

(D) Development of Designs on Fabric: The designsselected by the panel of judges experts from field oftextiles and fashion designing were embellished on prod-uct through artificial Danka plates.

(E) Assessment of Developed Samples: The developedproducts were assessed in order to get the marketacceptability of the samples; the panel of judges wasasked to analyze the samples based on different crite-ria. The developed pouch, bangle box, ring case andkeychain were tested for the acceptability of the itemsin the market. The acceptability of designs were calcu-lated and ranked. The data under each category wasranked on rating performa. The scores were as underExcellent = 5, Good = 4, Fair = 3, Average = 2, Poor= 1

Following criteria was followed for rating the samples;

� Selection of motifs

� Design suitability according to the sample

� Selection of fabric

� Selection of colour

� Placement of motifs

� Suitability of motifs to the end use

� Quality of workmanship

� Acceptability of concept

Acceptability Index % = Highest score x 100 Maximum score

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3. Results & Discussion� Preparation of DesignsAfter documenting traditional danka motifs, innovativedesigns were prepared by the researcher manually. 20innovative designs were drawn on paper and designsvaried from the existing traditional designs and includedlighter to heavier work. The designs were drawn to beembellished on kurti and handicraft items as it wasconsidered as a new diversification of the product indanka work as this craft was traditionally done on rajputiposhaks and sarees.

� Selection of designsDeveloped danka designs were arranged in systematicmanner and then shown to a panel of experts fromfield of textiles and fashion designing to select the best5 designs out of 20 for developing kurti. Majority ofexperts appreciated the efforts made by the researcherin developing the designs. The motifs developed wereinnovative and creative for danka work. As per sug-gestions the fineness and intricacy of the motifs werefurther improved to get the best result. The judgeswere asked to rank the designs on rating performawhich was excellent, good, fair, average and poor.

� Selection of fabricDanka work was traditionally done on delicate fabricssuch as chiffon, georgette, crape, etc. but attempt wasmade on stiff fabric. The fabrics selected for the de-velopment of kurtis and handicraft items were Khadisilk, Poly silk & Cotton. The colour of fabrics selectedwere off white, rusty pink, pastel green, pastel yellow,Indian pink, rusty maroon and black.

� Evaluation of AcceptabilityThe products were evaluated through ranking scale.Responses and preference to kurtis, pouch, keychain,bangle box and ring case with danka work were re-corded.

Figure 3.1. : New Developed Design on Kurtis

S-1 S-2 S-3

S-4 S-5

Table No 3.1 : Acceptability score of Kurti's obtained byrelative ranking

Criteria of Scores

evaluationItem No. S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4 S-5

Total score 390 450 320 380 410obtained

Acceptability 78 90 64 76 82Index(in %)

The rating obtained for the developed samples for thedress material (kurti) revealed that sample 2 got thehighest score as (90%) followed by sample 5 (82%),sample 1 (78%), sample 4(76%) and sample 3 (64%)respectively. Sample code no. 2 and no.5 got the high-est score because in both the samples colours werefound to be more appealing to the panel

Table No 3.2 : Cost of developed samples

Sample No. S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4 S-5

Cost 400/- 500/- 500/- 400/- 400/-

From the above table it was found that costing of sampleS-2 &S-3 was Rs 500/- and S-1, S-4, S-5 was Rs.400/-.

Table No 3.3 : Comparison between costs of original andartificial danka

Sample No. S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4 S-5

Cost with 400/- 500/- 500/- 400/- 400/-artificial Danka

Cost with gold 1700/- 2100/- 2000/- 1800/- 1900/-plated silverDanka

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On comparing the cost of artificial danka with goldplated silver the cost of all samples in artificial dankawork was much lesser in comparison to the original.But the workmanship and the overall appearance ofartificial danka was quite similar to gold plated silverdanka thus, makes the samples more suitable to themasses.Figure 3.2 : Developed designs of pouch( Size 4x4 inch)

P-1 P-2

P-3 P-4

P-5

Table No 3.4 : Acceptability score of the pouch obtained byrelative ranking

Criteria of Scoreevaluation

Item No P-1 P-2 P-3 P-4 P-5

Total score 400 390 410 360 430obtained

Acceptability 80 78 82 72 86Index(in %)

From the above table it was found that P-5 and P-3gothighest score as compare to P-1, P-2, P-4, because inboth the designs the designs the motif used, colourcombination and quality of workmanship was better incomparison with the others.

Figure 3.3 : Developed designs of Ring Case( Size 1.5x1.5inch)

R-1 R-2

R-3 R-4

R-5

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Table No 3.5 : Acceptability score of the ring case obtainedby relative ranking

Criteria of Scoreevaluation

Item No R-1 R-2 R-3 R-4 R-5

Total score 470 490 380 400 320obtained

Acceptability 94 98 76 80 64Index (in %)

From the above table it was found that R-1and R-2were highly appreciated by the respondents as com-pare to R-3, R-4, and R-5.The result revealed that therespondents appreciated the R-1 and R-2 designs be-cause of their colour combination, suitability of motifsto the end use, placement of motifs and overall appear-ance was good from others on basis of criteria ofevaluation.

Figure 3.4 : Developed designs of bangle box( size 4.5x4.5inch)

B1 B2

B3 B4

B5

Table No 3.6 : Acceptability score of the bangle box obtainedby relative ranking

Criteria of Scoreevaluation

B-1 B-2 B-3 B-4 B-5Total score 440 470 350 380 400obtained

Acceptability 88 94 70 76 80Index(in %)

From the above table it was found the quality of work,Placement of motifs, Selection of motifs etc of B-1andB-2 were highly appreciated by the respondents ascompare to B-3, B-4, and B-5.

Figure 3.5 : Developed designs of Keychain( size 4.5x4.5inch)

K-1 K-2 K-3 K-4 K-5

Table No 3.7 : Acceptability score of the keychain obtainedby relative ranking

Criteria of Scoreevaluation

K-1 K-2 K-3 K-4 K-5

Total score 410 430 340 460 370obtained

Acceptability 82 86 68 92 74Index(in %)

From the above table it was found that K-2 and K-4were highly appreciated because of their overall ap-pearance, colour, Selection of fabric, Quality of work-manship etc by the respondents as compare to K-1, K-3, and K-5.

4. ConclusionDanka units have a small market share but the prod-ucts have great opportunity among markets. This is the

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type of search required by a strategy for growth isbased on new product development and expansion intopreviously untapped markets. The danka work ofUdaipur has been fading because of lack of capital,lack of promotion of new techniques, lack of organiza-tion, lack of demand and the ever increasing prices ofsilver. There is a need to make innovation in the presentsituation. A few suggestions have been listed to pro-mote the art and the people associated.

� Assuming that there are good prospects, there is aneed to set up a mission to revive the old art andbuild up its market value and common brand im-age.

� Making Danka work as historic art and to make anapplication for getting the trademark registeredand the process patent for this art.

� Develop a pool of shop owners, exporters andagents for colleting the work in common platformand then distribute the work to the member arti-sans based on the skills sets and scientific costingmethod.

� Promotional activities should be undertaken suchas trade fairs, exhibitions etc.

� This report will serve as a guideline of experimen-tation for upcoming designers, students, boutiqueowners, self-entrepreneurs and for fashion innova-tors to know about the trends and styles in dankacraft.

References

1. Bhandari, V., "Costumes, Textiles and Jewelleryof India: Traditions in Rajasthan", Prakash Publi-cations, 98, (2004).

2. Mehta, R.J., "Master Pieces of India", D.B.Taraparevala Sons & Pvt. Ltd, 23-25, (1994).

3. Mathur, P.R., "Costumes of the Royal Mewar",Abhinav publication, 57, (1994).

4. Babel, S., and Kaur, K., Market Potential of ValueAdded Danka work Shawls. Textile Trends, LIII(5), (2010).

5. Vyas, G., "Mewar ka Samagicevem Arthik Jivan",In City Palace of Udaipur, 136-138, (1987).

�����

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ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

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The textile Industry is constantly changing and gearing up to meet the demands ofconsumer and other agencies which are concerned with the consumer's health andsafety. Off late the NGO activities have created a lot of awareness in the con-sumer demands. Changing towards achieving better quality controls, using auto-mated machinery, environmental consciousness etc... was the passé and todaybecause of the NGO's and other consumer forums demands and requirements, themajor Brands and retailers have adapted to the ever changing requirements bygiving lot of importance to the chemicals which are going in manufacturing of theseproducts. With this ever changing trend, there is continuous pressure on themanufacturer's of Dyes & Chemicals to disclose and know more about the prod-ucts which are being produced and put into the supply chain of the textile industryas a whole.

I am fortunate to be associated with the Textile Industry for past 7 years and eachyear has been an experience where we keep on receiving requests and demands,from the mills, exporters and retailers. All these demands have been originated dueto some requirements and regulations which are changing and becoming stricterday by day. In this situation only people who adapt to the ever changing needs anddemands of retailers would survive.

The awareness level on the ecological and Toxicological issues needs to improvedrastically at all levels of the supply chain. It is important that the exporter whois the main link of the entire textile supply chain understands clearly the regulationsand specifications of all the retailers and then communicate all these aspectsclearly to his suppliers. Often it is observed that the ecological requirements arenot mentioned at all in any official communication. Still the mills are getting therequests and orders with a small piece or thread for matching without any mentionof the full eco requirements.

We see a lot of general terms like Azo, Formaldehyde, Phthalates, Heavy metalsfree etc., being used in the order sheets and request forms which come to themills. However, very few takes pains to understand the real requirements andneeds of the customers and deliver what is expected. It is important that all thetextile supply chain people understand the terms used in the Restricted SubstancesList (RSL) manuals of various brands and retailers. The Brands are taking lot ofpains to create the documents for the RSL and their tool kits. Education andcreating awareness is the key in current scenario and brands and retailers aredoing their bit with investing lot of resources and time in getting the right messageacross their supply chain. They are conducting seminars, workshops, organizingpilot programs, Audits, technical assistance visits etc., to achieve the common goalof sustainable production.

Today meeting the retailer's requirements for the apparel production alone is notenough. With the constant efforts of Greenpeace on the textile apparel productsand the Detox campaign, it has become important to know what are the toxins

Dr. Pariti Siva Rama Kumar,CCol ASDC

Dr. P. Siva Rama Kumar,obtained his B.Sc degreefrom Andhra UniversityVisakhapatnam. He didBSc (Tech.), M.Sc. (Tech.)and Ph.D. (Tech.) fromUICT formerly known asUDCT in the field of Inter-mediates and Dyestuff Tech-nology.

He has over 15 Interna-tional Publications to hiscredit.

He started his career withThe Society of Dyers andColourists as Chief Oper-ating Officer of India aftercompleting his doctoral re-search in 2005. He re-ceived Chartered Colo-urist status andAssociateship of Society ofDyers and Colourists inthe year of 2008 from TheSociety of Dyers andColourists and silver medalfor outstanding contribu-tion for coloration Indus-try in India from Society.He is Member, EditorialAdvisory Board of Chemis-try & Industry a flagshipmagazine of Society ofChemical Industries UK.,Executive Member ofASTM and AATCC.

Currently working asManager, in DyStar Tex-tiles Services.

Current Challenges ForTextile Industry

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which we release into the waste water streams duringproduction or during the use of the product. So in cur-rent day's norms, understanding the impurity profiles,hazardous chemical residues in the products intendedto use and possible contaminants are becoming moreimportant.

The mill before they use any recipe for productionneed to know who is the ultimate buyer and the re-quirements so that there will not be any issue of noncompliance coming from the wrong selection of thedyes and chemicals. More care is given to look for thefastness requirements but care also needs to be takento look at the chemical restrictions which are to be

adhered to. Usually this information is not availableeasily. We need to be relying on the MSDS, declara-tions, Technical data sheet and the final test reports (infew cases the required tests are not conducted). How-ever, most of the MSDS and declaration documentsprovided by the suppliers of dyes and chemicals are notgiving adequate and accurate information.

We cannot always have quick solution for this situationbut we need to constantly upgrade our knowledgethrough attending meetings, seminars and contactingthe suppliers and manufacturers for understanding therequirements and analyzing the products to be used sothat non-compliance and penalties can be avoided.

TEXPERIENCE

Target Your ClientsYour Advertisements in Journal of the Textile Association

hits your targeted clients because ….

• Textiles & Garment industry are the Asia's Premier Industries

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Subscribe to or advertise in JTA

The Textile Association (India) Office : Pathare House, Next to State Bank of India,

67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W),Mumbai - 400 028 (India)

Tel. : +91 22 24461145 Fax : +91 22 24474971 Mail : taicnt@gmail.com

www.textileassociationindia.org

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Taking a slightly deviant line fromthe usual concept of innovation intechnology, work practices, automa-tion and / or product developmentinto areas like technical textiles wewould like to bring to attention an-other innovation tool which can andhas been very successfully used toincrease resource utilisation all overthe world and in all industries.

We are talking of computers andsoftware, in various forms and for-mats. Note that we have separatedthe two, as we have observed thatcomputerisation for most peoplemeans putting in some computerterminals and use them as printingmachines for items like Challans, in-voices, salary sheets etc.

The use of technology is restrictedonly by how it is applied and used.Just the provision of technology byitself serves no purpose. An illus-trative example would be buying anew weaving machine and notmonitoring its working or efficiency.

Similarly, the use computers can beput to are defined by the softwarethat uses them. As mentioned ear-lier, the first and often last step inmany organisations is their use asrecording and printing machines.

Yes, there are attempts made by

many, and some successfully imple-ment what is known exotically asEnterprise Resource Planning(ERP). The successes are few andfar in between specially in thesmaller and medium sectors whoactually stand to benefit more givenlack of resources and hands.

Let's look at use of computers, ormore importantly the software run-ning in them in enabling better useof your resource and becoming aeffective tool to help you take moreinformed decisions faster.

Alas, much as we don't agree withthe label for want of anything bet-ter we have to return to ERP. Whatexactly does ERP mean? As theelaboration suggests, it is an Enter-prise wide resource planning tool.The enterprise may itself constitutea 2 person one or a 2000 one.

The basis on which it works issimple. All the business activity islinked through a common thread andrecorded centrally. The informationis processed by the computer sys-tem to be presented in predefinedreporting formats. The same isavailable to decision makers almostimmediately online to monitor, andif required take corrective decisions.In short, the information required orrelevant to anyone anywhere in thebusiness chain is bought to noticeor available even if it has beenentered by someone sitting hundredsof kilometres away with no con-cern with this persons working.

The advantages are many. One, itensures that only entry needs to bemade for one figure of data. Todemonstrate this lets take an ex-ample of a manual versus ERP entryfor one particular item. For our

purpose I will take an item issuedby the spares store to the weavingdepartment.In the usual manual system the idealprocess would be something like -Weaving issues indent to store (inthe dark as they really have no wayof knowing if the last piece wasused up by the night shift yester-day), store physically verifies stockand authority approving, if availableissues against a slip and enters thatslip in its system, updating the re-mainder stock, the weaving depart-ment enters the stock against sparesreceived and puts in the machineissued to, confined to its department.Once in a month or maybe longer,the accounts is given a spare con-sumption record which it again in-puts in its accounting system fortracking money spent and matchingagainst budgeted or revenue expen-ditures. If the accounts and factoryare located in different locations asis often the case even in smallerunits, this activity may or may notever happen or gets done only attimes of Audit, if the auditor is fussy.Thus for one piece of 5 Rupeeswasher the entry is done threetimes, by various heads, and nomeans of knowing if someone hasmissed an entry or made a wrongone. The cost of 3 people with vary-ing level of skills and ever increas-ing pay packages doing this can byno means be a thing to be ignorednow. (On a diversion it's surprisinghow we circulate a joke of govern-ment spending Rs 500 to check ona 5 Rs envelope, not realising howoften it is happening in our ownbackyard).

As against this in a typical ERP.the weaving department would getinto the system, check for availablepart in stock, issue an online indent,which will pop up on the store de-partments screen along with warn-

Innovation Through Software

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Sharad Tandon,CEO

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ing and alerts if any ( eg if the samepart is being requested repeatedlyfor the same machine the alert levelwould tell the store keeper thatnormal consumption has been al-ready exhausted), the same alert ifrequired will be flashed on to higherauthority or maintenance sectioneven as the process is happening.If store issues the part, the stock isupdated, if the stock is below nor-mal a purchase indent is automati-cally generated and sent to thosewith power to sanction. At the sametime the issue part value is updatedin accounts under spares expendi-ture in revenue as well as budget.This will reflect in the relevant re-ports almost immediately.

Now the thing to be noted here, weare not really doing away with theconcerned people. Only freeingthem from the routine tasks of fill-ing out forms and updating data.Thus they are available for moreproductive purposes. Also, now theinformation is available in relevantforms to people going to be affectedby it in his or her own manner. Theweaving department gets to knowbalance stock. The store keeper isable to see and forecast consump-

tion patterns for a particular item.The maintenance person can seeexcess breakdown of a part repeat-edly on one machine. The accountsperson is able to see in Rupee termsthe happening in the plant. All thisby one entry.

Now if this is so wonderful, com-mon sense says that everyone shouldhave implemented it long back andbe working only by this. Here liesthe rub. Deciding to implement ERPand actually doing it successfully aretwo different things. Let us exam-ine why. Among the major hin-drances are some myths or miscon-ceptions.

MYTH 1My people are uneducated andnot from the Computer ClassANS: The use of computers is de-pendant on the ease of use and notof any qualification. The widespreaduse of ATMs all over rural Indiashould be enough to answer this. Ifa person can operate an ATM hecan an ERP. Provided you designthe ERP that way.

MYTH 2It's too costly and only big play-

ers can afford itANS: ERPs are available in allbudget ranges. Still to put a figureI would say a fully functional ERPfor a group of 1 office , 3 plantsand about 150 employees would costaround 20 - 25 lakhs including ev-erything. (The key issue, paybackis around 1 year at the most)

MYTH 3It never gets implemented. Ortakes years and then doesn't workANS: Yes, this is the most true ofall the reasons for failure of ERP totake off. Understand, policy deci-sion, like purchasing an ERP pack-age is different and actual execu-tion, implementing ERP is different.You have to realise that the exper-tise and discipline needed to imple-ment is rarely available in house forsmaller or medium units. Solution?Entrust the entire task to a outsidemonitoring or implementing agency.This does not mean the ERP ven-dor.

In summation its well said that theonly thing holding us back is usuallyour own fears!

- Sharad Tandon,CEO

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Shape-memory polymers (SMPs)are polymeric smart materials thathave the ability to return from adeformed state (temporary shape)to their original (permanent) shapeinduced by an external stimulus(trigger), such as temperaturechange. Shape memory polymerswere first developed in Japan in1984. Shape Memory Materials areone group of very promising smartmaterials. These materials exhibitnovel properties such as sensing(thermal, stress, optical, chemical),actuation, high damping, adaptiveresponses, super-elasticity capabil-ity and air permeability. They areused in medical, textile, garmentsand footwear products, compositesand electrical appliances.

The synthesis, characterization, ap-plication, industrialization and mod-eling of different types of shapememory polymers such as Polyure-thane, Poly-N-isopropylacrylamideand Polynorbornene for various pur-poses shows that, all shape memorymaterials have limited developmentin apparel arid related areas. How-ever, there is wider potential to applyshape memory polymer in the fieldsof textile and clothing such as fiberknitted and woven fabrics/garments.The concept of shape memory fab-ric is new and these fabrics can beprepared by applying waterborneshape memory polymers in Polyure-thane series (SMP) onto fabricsthrough specific finishing processes.SMP generally characterized as aphase segregated statistically blockcopolymer has a hard segment and

a soft segment. The hard segmentacts as a frozen phase and the softsegment acts as a reversible phase.This frozen phase helps to memo-rize the original shape while thereversible phase acts as a switchresponsible for shape recovering.Once the shape memory polymer isdeformed, the original shape is re-covered by heating the SMP at aswitching temperature which equalsto the melting temperature of softsegment.

Shape memory is the ability of aproduct to remember its originalshape upon application of an exter-nal stimulus such as chemicals, tem-perature, or pH. A change in shape- return to the predetermined shape,caused by a change in temperatureis called a thermally induced shapememory effect. To have this smartproperty in fabrics, a temperaturesensitive shape memory polymer(SMP) is used in fabric finishing.In general, shape memory fabrics/garments are endowed with excel-lent hand, shape retention, dimen-sional stability, good durability,wrinkle free, flat appearance, bag-ging recovery, comfort to wear andeasy care.

Classification of Shape MemoryPolymers

Shape memory polymers can beclassified into four major categoriesbased on their 'differences in fixingmechanism' and origin of 'perma-nent shape elasticity'.� Chemically cross-linked Glassy

thermostat� Chemically cross-linked semi

crystalline rubbers� Physically cross-linked thermo-

plastics� Physically cross-linked block

copolymer

Applications of Shape MemoryPolymers

Its special and unique properties.

Shape Memory FabricThe shirt with long sleeve could beprogrammed so that the sleevesshorten as room temperature be-comes hotter. The fabric can berolled up, pleated, creased and re-turned to its former shape by ap-plying heat. Ex: blowing air throughhair dryer.

ErgonomicThe violin is made from the combi-nation of shape memory polymerand carbon fibres. The shapememory polymer used here is"Veriflex". It is designed to help toreduce the neck and shoulder painof the player, as it can be reshapedas desired by the player.

SI Suits: The suit was developed tohelp the sailors on their journey. Itadapts to the temperature variationsand maintains a human body tem-perature. The membrane gives op-timal breathability in any given at-mospheric condition.

Morphing AircraftsMorphing materials and technologies

Shape MemoryPolymers in Textiles

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are adapted to construct deployablemorphing aircrafts and other inno-vative adaptive structures that areof critical importance to air force.Medical Field: In many operationswhich involve stitches inside thehuman body, a second operation isdone to remove the internal stitches.In such cases when biodegradableSMPs are used they dissolve gradu-ally and need not be removed astheir composition is harmless.

Benefits of Shape Memory Poly-mers over Conventional Poly-mers� Toughness� Unique shape memory proper-

ties

� Recovery to memorized shapeafter repeated deformation

� Ability to change from a rigidpolymer to rubbery elastomer

� Over 95% (one-part resin) and100% (two-part resin) elonga-tion possible in elastic state

� Low viscosity for easy process-ing (RTM or VARTM) (two-part resin)

� Open-mold curable� Aesthetic clarity

For application of Shape MemoryPolymer on the fabrics/garments todevelop the smart textiles, it is avery promising area with tremen-dous potential that has attractedenormous attention, but technologi-

cally it is still very challenging.Shape memory polymers are in-creasingly popular in the fabric en-gineering as they respond dynami-cally to changes in heat and mois-ture levels, ensuring greater com-fort for the wearer. They are thusoften used to produce high-end func-tional garments. It is believed thatSMPs can be activated in not onlyfunctional garments, but also fash-ion apparel, which will be charac-terized with not only technologicalinnovation, but also value-addedaesthetic benefits to the wearer.

--By Chet Ram Meena

TEXNOTES

Yashwantrao Chavan Maharashtra Open University, NashikDnyangangotri, Near Gangapur Dam, Nashik- 422 222 (MH)

Phone: (0253) 2231480, 2230171,Fax: (0253) 2231480

In Association with

The Textile Association (India), Central Office,Pathare House, 67, Ranade Road, Dadar (W), Mumbai - 400 028 (MH)

Phone: (022) 24461145, Fax: (022) 24474971Announces an Innovative programme in Textiles

B.A (Textile)Duration : 3 Years

Medium : Hindi / English / Marathi Eligibility: 12th Passed or Passed the preparatory programme of YCMOU

Features:• Degree programme is divided into six certificate programmes each of six months duration.• Easy to understand Study Material• Attendance in contact sessions is not mandatory• Course best suited for Textile workers

For details interested may contact School of Continuing Education Cell of the university on above address.

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The Textile Association (India),Mumbai Unit organized a One DaySeminar on "Innovation in Weav-ing" in Vapi on April 28, 2012. Itwas attended by nearly 250 del-egates.

Mr. V.C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI,Mumbai Unit welcomed the ChiefGuest, Dr. Chandan Chatterjee,Director, The Center for entrepre-neurs development, industriescommissionerate, Govt. of Gujarat,Key note speaker Mr. Prakash Shah,Chairman & Managing Director,Prashant Group of Industries, Guestof Honour Mr. S.S. Aich, CEO, AlokTextile Industries Ltd. and Mr.Narayan Thakkar, Managing Direc-tor, Rukshmani Syntex Pvt. Ltd.Awardees Mr. G. Banerjee, Direc-tor, Shree Ram Textile Mills Ltd.,Speakers, Press, Media and del-egates. Mr. C. Bose, President,TAI, Mumbai Unit delivered thepresidential address and briefedabout the activities of TAI, MumbaiUnit.

Mr. Haresh B. Parekh, Convener& Jt. Hon. Gen. Secretary, TAIbriefed about the seminar. He saidthat TAI, Mumbai Unit feels proudto meet the technocrats and tech-nologists from the region of Vapi,Silvassa, Tarapur and Umbergaon.He further informed that the textileindustry was the second largestsector in India till the year 2000before other industries like IT (In-formation Technology), constructionstepped in our country. However thetextile industry is a second largestindustry in our country providing em-ployment to the people only next toagricultural sector. There is no doubtthat textile industry contributes sig-

One Day Seminar on "Innovation In Weaving"

TAI - South Gujarat Unit

TAI - South Gujarat Unit (Surat)organized an industrial visit on 19thMAY, 2012 at Navsari in MafatlalDenim Ltd. and Cebon Apparel Pvt.Ltd.

Shri R. R. Patil, Vice President,Mafatlal Industries Ltd., gave warmwelcome and briefed about the re-quirements in cotton textile manu-facturing to visiting group who weremainly from synthetic textile indus-try. Visiting members discussedabout the needs of surat based syn-thetic textile industry. ShriGirishchandra H. Bhatt, President,TAI-SGU-Surat, delivered vote ofthanks especially to Shri R. R. Patilfor making the visits an unforgetableone.

At Mafatlal Denim Ltd., Dr. MilindBhortakke, Vice President-Opera-tions, welcomed the group. Thetechnicians showed and explainedthe various modern technologies forSpinning, Weaving and Processingfor Denim.

At Cebon Apparel Pvt. Ltd.,Mr. N. J. Moradiya, Vice President(Manufacturing), welcomed thegroup. He showed the high-techgarment manufacturing process anddiscussed on how to survive in glo-bal competitive garment market withcost cutting but not at the cost ofquality. The company is an exampleof "High productivity and Qualitywith Less Man-Power".

Shri Virendra Jariwala, Hon. Jt. Gen.Secretary, TAI-Central Office, gaveaway the vote of thanks to Dr.Milind Bhortakke and Shri N. J.Moradiya.

nificantly to the countries economi-cal growth. The latest changingscenario of economic slow down hasadversely affected this industry. TheGovt. of India and State Govt. ofGujarat have announced variousschemes to provide subsidy for thedevelopment of this industry. Thetextile units should take advantageof various schemes by forming clus-ters to come out of the economicslowdown.

Mr. Prakash Shah, Chairman &Managing Director, Prashant Groupof Industries in his key note addresssaid that preparatory process is asimportant as weaving. Therefore,machinery design and developmenton commercial scale plays a keyrole in growth of the sector. Duringhis deliberations, he demonstratedthe strength of the machinery manu-facture by illustrating various devel-opments made by Prashant groupof Industries in terms of variousweaving preparatory processes. Heemphasized the importance of thecollaboration in the design of ma-chineries to shrink the time in thedevelopment.

Mr. S. S. Aich, CEO, Alok TextileIndustries Ltd. in his special addressinformed the importance of processcontrol and quality control in theweaving mill. He informed the stepstaken to increase the productivityand production targets in the man-agement of mill operations. As oneof the leading mills in the country,he informed the ways and meanspursued in his mill to achieve thehigh quality and productivity.

Mr. Narayan Thakkar, ManagingDirector, Rukshmani Syntex Pvt.

UNIT ACTIVITIES

The Textile

Association (India)

TAI - Mumbai Unit

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Ltd. while addressing the delegatesnarrated the historical transect ofhis carreer. He explained the im-portance of human resource devel-opment as key factor for the growthof his enterprise.

Mr. Prakash Shah, Chairman & ManagingDirector, Prashant Group of Industriesreceiving The Corporate Excellence Awardby the hands of Chief Guest Dr. ChandanChatterjee, Director, The Center for Entre-preneurs Development, IndustriesCommissi-onerate, Govt. of Gujarat.

The Textile Association (India),Mumbai Unit has set a precedentby felicitating the textile profession-als for their outstanding contribu-tion in the field of textile industry.In this seminar, the TAI, MumbaiUnit felicitated Mr. G. Banerjee,Director, Shree Ram Textile MillsLtd. with "The Life-Time Achieve-ment Award" for his contribution tothe textile industry. The TextileAssociation (India), Mumbai Unitfor the first time conferred "TheCorporate Excellence Award" whichwas awarded to M/s PrashantGroup of Industries for their contri-bution in the field of textiles.

Mr. G. Banerjee, Director, Shree RamTextile Mills Ltd. receiving The LifetimeAchievement Award by the hands of ChiefGuest Dr. Chandan Chatterjee, Director,The Center for Entrepreneurs Development,Industries Commiss-ionerate,Govt. of Gujarat.

Dr. Chandan Chatterjee, Director,The Center for EntrepreneursDevelopment, Industries Commis-sionerate, Govt. of Gujarat was theChief Guest of the seminar. Dr.Chattargee in his address said thattextile industry has a prominentplace in India as it provides largeemployment and contributes to theexport business. Due to the empha-sis on high value added productslike technical textiles, the demandfor different levels of technologieshas become a necessity. In thecontext of cost reduction, energy,efficiency and environmental as-pects play key role in reinforcingthe viability and profitability. He alsonarrated various steps taken by thestate and central government indealing with various challengesfaced by the industry. He expressedhis happiness for the initiative takento hold a seminar in Vapi by theTextile Association (India), MumbaiUnit. He hoped that the delibera-tions would meet the objectives oftechnological issues confronted withthe user industry.

Inaugural Address by Chief Guest Dr.Chandan Chatterjee, Director,

The Center for Entrepreneurs Develop-ment, Industries Commissionerate, Govt.of Gujarat. In all, there were 7 technical

papers presented during the seminar.

Mr. Rais Inamdar, General Manager,Bakubhai Ambalal spoke on "Weav-ing Solutions for Rapier WeavingMachines".Mr. Navin Agrawal, General Man-ager - Fabric forming presented thepaper on "Latest Innovations in

Fabric Forming".

Mr. Bhupesh Trivedi, CEO,REECODE Energy Solutions madethe presentation on "Solar Energyhas turned cheaper".

Mr. J. B. Purohit, Sr. Manager -PL Sizing and Mr. K. Suresh, Man-ager, Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd.presented the paper on "EcologicalDenim Manufacturing"

Mr. Sanjay Gajul, Marketing Man-ager - Technical, S. A. Pharmachem(Pvt.) Ltd. expressed his views on"Recent Developments of SyntheticSizes for Spun Yarns and Size Re-covery".

Mr. Tapas Nandi, President & Coun-try Head, ITEMA Weaving (India)Pvt. Ltd. presented the paper on"Ecological solutions for any fab-ric".Mr. Vilas Gharat, Managing Direc-tor, Gharat & Associates made thepresentation on "Innovative HRpractices"

All the papers received high re-sponse from the participants.

View of the audience

The last session began with Paneldiscussion, which was moderated byMr. Sharad Tandon, CEO, StandonConsulting. The panel comprisedDr. G.S. Nadiger, Research Advi-sor, BTRA and speakers who pre-sented their papers in the seminar.There was good interaction betweenparticipants, who posed many que-

UNIT ACTIVITIES

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ries to panel members and the samewere answered by the panel mem-bers. It was a very interesting andfruitful session. The delegates wereattentative till the last session to takeadvantage of the plenary session.

The plenary session was profession-ally handled by the moderators aswell as the speakers. The organiz-ers of the seminar were happy thatthe objectives of the seminar werefully achieved.

At the end, Mr. Arun K. Narkar, Jt.Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unitproposed a vote of the thanks. Theseminar was a grand success andwas attended by over 250 partici-pants.

UNIT ACTIVITIES / NEWS

The 112th Canton Fair Press Con-ference was held at the SofitelHotel, Bandra Kurla Complex,Mumbai on Monday, 2nd July 2012.The event showcased presentationsfrom a number of senior officialsfrom China and India and impartedall the information needed to takeadvantage of business opportunitiesat the 112th Canton Fair. A similarevent was recently conducted inDelhi on 28th June at Taj MahalHotel. To promote the bilateral tradeevent at the press conference, ateam of 3 delegates from the ChinaForeign Trade Centre presented thescope and opportunities at the Can-ton Fair and how it is an indispens-able event for business growth. TheCanton Fair is biannual which is heldin Guangzhou every spring & au-tumn and the large stand most com-prehensive trade fair in China. Ithas the broadest distribution of over-

seas buyers and records the great-est business turnover in China.

The previous hosting of Canton Fairin April 2012 attracted over 200,000buyers and close to 210 participat-ing countries. With over 58,000stands and 150,000 different typesof products exhibited at each fair, itachieved a staggering business turn-over of 37.9 billion US dollars.India's presence at the fair has beensteadily growing with around 9000buyers out of a total of 220,000 inthe previous edition, which wouldsignificantly increase this year. The112th edition of the Canton Fair willcommence in three phases of fivedays each. Phase1 (October 15-19,2012) and Phase 2 (October 23-27,2012) and Phase 3 will commencefrom 31st October, 2012 until the4th of November, 2012. It will beco-hosted by the Ministry of Com-

merce, China and People's Govern-ment of Guangdong Province, andorganized by China Foreign TradeCentre. Mr. Niu Qingbao - ConsulGeneral of the People's Republic ofChina, assured the Indian visitorscomplete cooperation in clearing ofall travel documents to visit the Fair.He further added that he and histeam would commit to extra hours,to ensure no application for visasare pending, as the official travelcompany for Canton Fair for 2012appointed by The China ForeignTrade Centre (CFTC), Orbitz Cor-porate & Leisure Travels (I) Pvt.Ltd. will facilitate the travel arrange-ment for the interested Indian del-egates. The event was attended bydignitaries and many eminent per-sonalities from the corporate worldand trade associations. They includedMr. Liu Guoyu - Economic andCommercial Counselor of People'sRepublic of China in Mumbai, Mr.Vijay Kalantri - President, AIAI;Chandrakant Salunkhe - FounderPresident, SME Chamber of India;Mr. Suresh Sharma - Vice Presi-dent, ICECC; Mr. Ashish Pednekar-President, MACCIA; Mr. SanjayBhide - Secretary, Trans AsianChamber of Commerce & Industryto name a few. Despite the slug-gish global economy, the Canton Faircontinues to present a vibrant Tradeplat form for exhibitors and buyerto network and sell to China. In another-wise dismal Euro Debt crisis,it promotes the spirit of cooperationand offers the best sourcing choiceto combat this slow-down.

Canton Fair 2012

L to R -Mr. Rupen Vikamsey, Ms Deng lizhou, Mr. Sanjay Bhide, Mr.Niu Qingbao - Consul General of the People's Republic of China,Mr. Suresh Sharma, Mr. Chandrakant Salunkhe, Mr. Mr. Liu Guoyu& Mr. Chintan Chheda

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Textiles inherently can pose immenseversatility and are capable of shap-ing into various functional productsfor varied uses - from packagingmaterial to high-end uses like de-fence, space, aviation, etc. Thesephenomena have led to a class oftextile products viz. Technical Tex-tiles. Application wise there aretwelve sectors of Technical Textiles,technology wise also added areNon-wovens, Composites, Coatedtextiles, etc. Technical use of tex-tiles started from the dawn of hu-man civilization - it is said that flaxfabric were used for stabilization ofground base for pyramid 5000 yearsago in pre-historic era. Sail cloth,heavy duty ropes, cordages, etc alsowere as old to be used as technicalTextiles for marine application inthose days. During the decades of70s and 80s of last century, adventof tailor-made man-made fibres,new mechanical and chemical pro-cessing technologies boosted thedevelopment of technical textiles.During the decades of 60s and 70s,textile industry in Europe and USAwas in a bad shape. The entiretextile industry in developed coun-tries realized that non-conventionalvalue added technical textiles couldonly offer a fresh lease of life totheir ailing textile industry. Todaymore than 40% of total manufac-turing activities of many industrial-ized countries comprise of Techni-cal Textiles.

Technical Textiles on its own merithas an important place in MaterialScience along with Micro-Electron-ics and Bio-technology, which willshape the developments in this cen-tury. CAGR of Technical Textiles

Wool Research Association Setting up ofCentre of Excellence in Sportech at WoolResearch Association, Thane

in the west is 2.4%, where as it is6.5% in India and China.

Considering the significance ofknowledge based emerging technol-ogy of Technical Textiles, Ministryof Textiles, formed a TechnologyMission in Technical Textiles to setup Centres of Excellence in 8 sec-tors of Technical Textiles and, afterscrutiny and evaluation by ProjectApproval Committee chaired bySecretary (Textiles), have desig-nated earlier 7 Centres of Excel-lence in various sectors of Techni-cal Textiles during last few years.In the month of February 2012,request for Proposal (RFP) forCentre of Excellence (COE) inSportech was invited by the TextileCommissioner on behalf of theGovernment of India. Wool Re-search Association (WRA) partici-pated in the bid as the Lead Part-ner of a Consortium formed withVeermata Jijabai Technological In-stitute (VJTI), Mumbai andKusumgar Corporates, a leadingTechnical Textile manufacturer, asmembers. Besides, the industriesviz. Raymonds Ltd, Grentex & Co.Pvt. Ltd, Banswara Syntex andShree Ram Textile Mills extendedtheir support to WRA for setting upthe COE in Sportech. After evalu-ation, the Project Approval Com-mittee (PAC) approved the proposaland subsequently WRA was desig-nated last month as Centre of Ex-cellence in Sportech.

Sportech sector alongwith Mobil-tech and Indutech sectors of Tech-nical Textiles constitute 55-57% oftotal technical textiles on a globalbasis.

Apart from improving economy,sports activities have been focusedas a global phenomenon to estab-lish supremacy over other countries.Today, battles are not fought in thebattlefield, but are fought in theplayfields. Records set up by thesportsmen in a particular interna-tional event often are demolished inthe next event. This is possible dueto the availability of newer tech-nique, overall improvement of physi-cal and mental fitness backed byimproved sportswear and equipment,that is 'Sportech'.

Today's sportsman requires specialsports clothing to enhance his com-fort, protection and performance tosupercede his competitors. Broadly,there are three categories ofsportech products viz. Sportwear,Sports goods and Sports accesso-ries. In India there are atleast 12clusters of sportech manufacturersand more than a dozen sports bod-ies representing the users ofsportech.

Wool Research Association(WRA) is a Textile Research As-sociation established in 1963 by theWoollen & Worsted industry. Sincelast two decades, it had modestlyengaged itself in the developmentof technical textiles. It had under-taken a few sponsored projectsrelating to Sportech, Indutech,Mobiltech, etc. WRA has selectedto work on Sportech due to follow-ing factors :

� Increased activities and partici-pation in sports in the country.

� Outdoor leisure pursuits.� Availability of high performance

fibres, new technologies ofcoatings and manufacturing pro-cess.

� Higher level of sports standardsand challenges within sporting

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nations.� Newer sports requiring high

dexterity, skill and sportinggears.

� Popularity of traditional sportslike athletics, soccer, cricket,skiing, golf-sailing, etc in thecountry.

� Growth of sports facility andinfrastructure in the country.

� Recent trend to combine fash-ion oriented sportwears andperformance garments.

The Centre of Excellence inSportech will have following infra-structure facilities:1. Modern Accredited Testing

Laboratory.2. Prototype Development plant

and machineries.3. Incubation Centre.4. Resource Centre with IT infra-

structure.5. Training facility for HRD in

Technical Textiles.6. Formation of standards, speci-

fications, norms.7. Sample Bank.8. Seminar, Workshops, FGD, etc.

The Office of the Textile Commis-sioner shall provide fund support ofRs.24.50 crores for the project ofCOE in Sportech, which includesrecurring expenditure of Rs. 3.00crores for appointment of consult-ants under this project. SteeringCommittee for Growth and Devel-opment of Technical Textiles(SCGDTT) constituted under thechairmanship of Textile Commis-sioner shall monitor, review and co-ordinate the activities of the COE.

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Texttreasure

The greatest gift that you cangive to others is the gift ofunconditional love and accep-tance. -Brian Tracy

Dr. Surinder Tandon, Senior Scien-tist with AgResearch, based at Lin-coln, Canterbury, has been awardedthe Institute Medal of the RoyalChartered Textile Institute (TI) atthe 88th TI World Conference heldrecently on 15th May 2012 nearKuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The TI isthe global association for textileprofessionals, and the medal is oneof the Institute's most prestigioushonours, recognising distinguishedservice to the textile industry andthe Institute. It has been awardedsince 1921, and Dr. Tandon is onlythe second New Zealand recipient.In his 23 years of research at WoolResearch Organisation of NewZealand (WRONZ), Canesis andnow AgResearch, he has applied hisresearch skills culminating in manypublications, and several commer-cial success stories for wool growergroups and industry worldwidewhich include several fit-for-purposeapparel and functional textiles. Hehas collaborated with textile aca-demics and professionals around theglobe.

Dr. Tandon, a member of the TI

Top Global Award for an Indian Scientist

NZ Section since 1992 and a Fel-low of the TI, was its section chair-man during 2004-07 period. Hedeveloped collaborations with theother New Zealand textile profes-sional groups, and fashion and de-sign schools of several universitiesand polytechnics to organise com-bined events for sharing knowledgewithin the New Zealand textile fra-ternity.

Outside his research interests, he isinvolved in community work, beinga member and Past-President of theRotary Club of Lincoln, Presidentof the Christchurch MulticulturalCouncil and President of theChristchurch Chapter of GlobalOrganisation of the People of In-dian Origin (GOPIO). He completedBText (Hons) from TIT Bhiwani in1982, MTech from IIT Delhi in 1984and PhD from Leeds University in1988.

The Textile Association (India)heartily congratulate Mr. SurinderTandon for receiving a prestigiousglobal award and wish him best forall the success in his life.

Mr. Andreas Weber, TI World Immediate Past-President (left),Dr. Surinder Tandon and Dr. Peter Dinsdale, TI World President

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Rotor spinning machines and spin-ning technology of the latest gen-eration allow energy savings of upto 25 % in a cotton spinning plant.

The challenges in terms ofsustainability

In a rotor spinning plant, pure in-creases in productivity with newspinning technology are usually onlysufficient to justify new investmentsafter a long period of time. Otherbenefits of modern technology thatdo not completely pay off in thespinning mill itself are consequentlyonly implemented with a long delay.

Spinning machines are very bigenergy consumers with an energyusage ranging from 0.5 to far above1.5 kWh per kg of yarn. Theythereby decisively influence theenergy-related footprint of the tex-tile product. In some regions, par-ticularly in Asia, the spinning plantsserve to develop industrialization andto increase creation of value fromlocally produced cotton. There, theinfrastructure is heavily strained bysuch big users.

With the implementation of modernrotor spinning technology, the en-ergy requirements for worldwidetextile products can be sustainablydecreased. Moreover, modern tech-nology can provide an appreciablecontribution towards easing the en-ergy supply situation in the industri-ally developing regions.

The initial situation

A large rotor spinning plant in theUSA which was equipped in the1980s and continually expanded overa period of 10 years, produced withits meanwhile up to 18 years'old machine park approx. 88 000tons of yarn annually from domes-tic cotton. The spinning plant wasoperated with modernization mea-

New Spinning Plant MakesSignificant Energy Savings

sures so that the quality of the yarnremained competitive. Consistentservicing and maintenance permit-ted a high utilization despite an ag-ing machine park. The investmenttrend for the textile industry in theUSA, whose downstream process-ing moved to countries with low paylevels, was minimal. For this rea-son, new investment was postponed.Due to the comparably low energycosts, the energy consumption ofthe plant was previously not in fo-cus. Detailed statements on energyconsumption of new plants are, ingeneral, hardly available because ofthe very high dependency on theindividual applications.

The solution - sustainable in-vestment with new technology

The rotor spinning machine in usewas consistently further developedwith regard to productivity andlower energy consumption to the R60 model. A new spinning unit con-tains the latest developments inspinning technology. Its improvedspinning stability allows equal yarnproperties with a lower use of en-ergy-intensive yarn twisting andtherefore higher productivity.

Longer machines make an economi-cal machine price possible and amore cost-effective utilization of theareas in the spinning mills. This wasagain only possible because thespinning positions used less energydue to the application of highly ef-ficient central drives and energy-saving storage.

The sustainable strengths

The benefits of modern automaticrotor spinning machines are com-prised of a combination of increas-ing the efficiency of the plant, abetter utilization of the raw materi-als processed and a significant re-

duction of the energy consumptionrequired for the production.

� Approx. 25 % lower specificenergy and resource require-ments for the production com-pared to old plants, due to theimproved spinning technologywhich allows an increase inproductivity of 5-10 % withoutmore energy and resourcesbeing required.

� Lower resource requirements indownstream processing, as themore even yarn quality resultsin less standstills and thereforea better utilization.

� Additional conservation of re-sources as in certain individualcases, the improved technologyalso permits the use of cheaperraw materials including the re-use of waste materials gener-ated by the spinning process andrecycled fibers.

The R 60 fully automated rotorspinning machine from Rieter.

The sustainable significance of thisdevelopment is even more apparentwhen one takes into considerationthat more than 7.5 million rotorspindles are in operation worldwide,on which an amount to the scale of9 million tons of yarn per hour isspun. This means that rotor spin-ning worldwide uses significantlymore than 1 000 MW of electricity.The modernization of this machinepark with an age of more than 20years can therefore greatly contrib-ute to reduction of the energy re-quirement.

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The global apparel manufacturingindustry is expected to grow morethan ever in times to come.

The conference is intended to coverall aspects of the apparel industry,including the problems of small-scaleenterprises in the developing world,the barriers which are hindering thegrowth of this industry, the strengthand weakness of the manufactur-ers in different region, globalizationissues, resource and manpowerscarcity, quality of the product, tradelaws, adopting new techniques toimprove productivity, managing glo-bal supply chain and finally chang-ing apparel industry trends withever-changing fashions.

The conference is intended to coverall aspects of the apparel industry,including the problems of small-scaleenterprises in the developing world,the barriers which are hindering thegrowth of this industry, the strengthand weakness of the manufactur-ers in different region, globalizationissues, resource and manpowerscarcity, quality of the product, tradelaws, adopting new techniques toimprove productivity, managing glo-bal supply chain and finally chang-ing apparel industry trends withever-changing fashions.

The conference aims to provide anenvironment for academics, re-searchers and practitioners to ex-change ideas and recent develop-ments in the field of apparel manu-facturing. The conference is alsoexpected to foster networking, col-laboration and joint effort among theconference participants to advance

the theory and practice as well asto identify major trends in apparelmanufacturing.

The Convention will be a greatopportunity for international tradefraternity to know the dual strengthsthat India can offer, not only as agreat supplier base, but also as afashion destination for internationalbrand

Suitable Development is a thematicin which OGTC has been workingfor dissemination of knowledge toeradicate barriers and raise aware-ness in the sector.

Eminent speakers from Bangladesh,India, Sri-Lanka, UK, and USA willbe presenting papers followed bypanel discussion.

Conference also provides a uniqueplatform to academicians and stu-dents in the field of Modeling andFashion Designing to present thefashion perspective as the see it.The Faculty and Students of De-partment of Fabric and ApparelScience of Lady Irwin College willpresent the Fashion show.

KEY ISSUES TO BE AD-DRESSED IN ICAHT 12

Environment : Carbon Foot PrintMeasurement in Garment IndustryDirection: A clear sense of wherethe organization is heading and howit will get There that is meaningfulto all employeesLeadership: The extent to whichleaders inspire action

Culture: Shared benefits and qualityof interaction within and across unitAccountability: The extent to whichindividuals understand what is ex-pected of them, have authority tocarry it out and take responsibilityfor delivering results.

Coordination: Ability to evaluateorganizational performance and riskand to add opportunities when theyarise.

Capabilities: The presence of insti-tutional skills and talent required toexecutive strategy and create com-petitive advantage.

Motivation: Presence of enthusiasmthat drives employees to put in ex-traordinary effort to deliver results.External: Quality of suppliers, part-ners and other external sharehold-ers to drive value.

Innovation : of new ideas and theability of the organization to adoptand shape itself as neededResponsible Fashion : Leading toResponsible CompetitivenessTechnological Up gradation : Ap-propriate and Continuous up grada-tion and absorption

WHO SHOULD ATTEND

The garment industry owners, theirCEO's, industry professionals, aca-demicians, representatives from in-dustry associations, researchers,consultants, service providers, finalyear and post graduate students etc.

8th International Conference on Apparel &Home Textiles on 21st & 22nd September, 2012,

At India Habitat Centre, New Delhi.Theme : The New Excellence

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INVITED SPEAKERS In (Alphabetical Orders)

SPEAKER COUNTRY SUBJECT

Anjuli Gopalakrishna India MerchandisingBruce Berton USA Enhancing Quality Focus, Customer

Orientation and Customer Services.Charles Canada The Pursuit of Lean Effectiveness"

(A Unified System of BusinessManagement in Lean Organization)

Damandeep Singh India Carbon Disclosure ProjectDevangshu Dutta India Strategic Overview of the Global

Garment Industry: Implications forDelhi NCR

Gunish Jain India Managing Uncertainty - A HR Per-spective

James Hoerig USA Operational Excellence throughTechnology (RFID)

Kamal Sidhu India Foreign Exchange ManagementLal Sudhakaran India Operational Excellence - A

Manufacturing PerspectivePhilip Chamberlain USA Buyer's Perspective for Future

Sourcing considering the SustainableBusiness Development.

Praveen Nayyar India Managing, Finance & CostsPrashant Agarwal India Motivation as a Productivity En-

hancement ToolRajesh Bheda India Handling Customer Complaints Re-

lianceIndian Rayon India Sourcing- FabricsRajender Puranik India Merchandisers, As the face of the

CompanyVijay Mathur India Social Compliance as the New Face

of Competitiveness in Apparel Ex-ports.

Vishal Mehta India Carbon Footprint Measurement -OGTC Case Study

Yoram Burg USA Operational Excellence throughTechnology

Delegate Fee ICAHT-12

1. (a) Members of OGTC Rs.3000/-(b) Textile Association (I)(c) Noida /Gurgaon/Apparel Export Cluster(d) ATDC Faculty

2. Others Rs.5000/-3. Indian Students through Institutes Rs.2000/-4. Foreign Delegates US$.200/-

Cheque / Bank Draft to be drawn in favour of OGTC payable at Delhi.

ORGANISING COMMITTEE

Chairman Mr. P.M.S. Uppal,President OGTC

Co- Mr. Vijay Mathur,Chairman Acting Sec. Gen. AEPC

For Further Details Contact:

Mr. R.C. Kesar,Conference Chairman09810091812Mr. M.K. Mehra,Conference Advisor09868200116Dr. Mona SuriConvener Papers Committee09810949709

CONFERENCESECRETARIAT

Okhla Garment & Textile ClusterD-104, Okhla Industrial Area,Phase I,New Delhi -110 020 IndiaPh. (91)11- 41609550Fax (91)11- 26383532Email :ogtc@airtelmail.in,ogtc@rediffmail.comVisit us at www.ogtc.in

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Textsmile

A : I have the perfect son.

B : Does he smoke?

A : No, he doesn't.

B : Does he drink whiskey?

A : No, he doesn't.

B : Does he ever comehome late?

A : No, he doesn't.

B : I guess you really dohave the perfect son.How old is he?

A : He will be six monthsold next Wednesday.

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ITAMMA's initiative for the ben-efit of SMEs of Textile EngineeringIndustry with the support of NSICLimited -- Focussing mainly onforthcoming 'INDIA ITME 2012'Exhibition

A Seminar - on Seminar on "Con-tribution of NSIC & Banking Sec-tor in growth of SME's of TextileEngineering Industry" with the sup-port of NSIC Limited was organizedby ITAMMA in the M.C. Ghia Hallof the Indian Textile Accessories &Machinery Manufacturers' Associa-tion, at Bhogilal Hargovindas Build-ing, 18/20, K. Dubash Marg, KalaGhoda, Mumbai-400 001 from 5.00p.m. onwards on 22nd June, 2012.

Shri N.D. Mhatre, Dy. DirectorGeneral (Tech.), in his introductoryremarks stated that "ITAMMA,even though being a body repre-senting Textile Engineering Indus-try of India; has taken many initia-tives in strengthening the bond be-tween Textile Manufacturing Indus-try, Textile Engineering Industry andTextile R&D Institutes, which isutmost essential today for develop-ing both the industries in the areasof Technology, Knowledge andBusiness. It is a known fact thatthe success of European TextileEngineering was due to the strongrelation and interaction betweenthese disciplines."

Mr. N.D. Mhatre, Dy. DirectorGeneral (Tech.), delivering the

Opening Remarks

"However, today the scenario issomething different as due to theclosing down of textile mills andmanufacturing industries in Euro-pean Countries, the manufacturersthere are hunting for tie-ups / col-laborations with Asian Markets forsustaining their business; while theTextile Colleges and Universitiesabroad too are looking for transferof Technologies in the countries likeChina, Taiwan and India."

"We think, this is the best opportu-nity for Indian textile industry torecord its identity in the Global com-petitive market and such exhibitionsare appropriate to have live inter-action between two industries andfurther this is an appropriate stepNSIC Ltd., has taken in regard withthis exhibition to support ITAMMAin this mission for the benefit ofSMEs."

Mr. Chetan R. Ghia, President,ITAMMA, delivering the

Welcome Speech

Shri Chetan R. Ghia, President,ITAMMA, in his welcome speechstated that "'India ITME 2012' thelargest and most prestigious textileengineering event will be held inIndia from 2-7 December, 2012where more than 700 exhibitors in655 individual stalls spread in 4 Hallscovering an exhibition area in ex-cess of 28000 to 30000 sq. mtrs.will be recorded. Considering the

average cost per sq. mtr. @Rs.9,000/-, it indicates an investmentof more than Rs.25 crores only install rent, where to an extent of 10to 15% investment, i.e. about Rs.4crores is contributed by the individualSMEs participating as Exhibitors.Further, more than 60% of them areITAMMA members."

Shri Ghia added that "ITAMMA,being an oldest and largest Asso-ciation in India representing TextileEngineering Industry, has alwaystaken initiatives for the benefit ofits members and Textile Engineer-ing Industry as a whole, in the fieldof enriching knowledge and busi-ness growth. Realising the impor-tance of our role in the 'India ITME2012' Exhibition, ITAMMA has re-quested NSIC Limited to extendtheir help in availing the subsidydeclared by NSIC Limited to theExhibitors in forthcoming 'IndiaITME 2012' Exhibition."

Mr. Hemraj Singh, Chief GeneralManager, NSIC Limited, addressing

the Inaugural Speech

Shri Hemraj Singh, Chief GeneralManager, NSIC Ltd briefed theaudience about the various govt.initiatives, policies and interventionprogrammes for ensuring theupliftment and growth of the Tex-tile Machinery & AccessoriesManufacturers. He also informedthe audience about the Govt. deci-sion making it mandatory for all thegovt departments and PSUs to pro-

Indian Textile Accessories & MachineryManufacturers' Association

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cure atleast 20% from the SSI unitsfrom this financial year onawards.He assured the memebrs of all sortsof help and urged them to comeforward and avail these programesfor their benefit. He also empha-sized on forming a strategic allianceto capitalise on the vast opportuni-ties available to the textile machin-ery manufacturers in the next 10-15 years and increase the Indianmarket share significantly and be-come the leading suppliers of tex-tile machineries and accessories.

Mr. Suryanarayanan, GeneralManager, CARE Rating Agency,

delivering a Special Address

Shri Suryanarayanan, General Man-ager, CARE Rating Agency, empha-sized that CARE rating is the onlyrating agency to have independentrating committee. While giving theintroduction he mentioned that it wasincorporated in April, 1993 as aCredit Rating, Information and Re-search Services Company, whichwas registered with SEBI under theSecurities & Exchange Board ofIndia Regulations in 1999 and isrecognized by RBI as an ExternalCredit Assessment Institution(ECAI) for Basel II implementa-tion in India and follows best prac-tices of IOSCO & ACRAA codeof conduct.

Mr. Kamal Lochan Nayak, BranchManager, NSIC Limited, delivering a

Special Address

Shri Kamal Lochan Nayak, BranchManager, NSIC Ltd., detailed themembers about the variousprogrammes and schemes of NSICintended for bringing the overalldevelopment of the SME units inIndia. He deliberated on the vari-ous constraints present in the Tex-tile Machinery manufacturing indus-try and showed the path for over-coming these hurdles with the helpof various NSIC schemes like, iron/ Steel/ Copper/ Aluminium procure-ment, finance facilities for procur-ing raw materials, machineries, etc.,subsidies for participation in thedomestic and international exhibi-tions, trade fairs, SPRS schemeunder which the various exemptionsare available to the SSI units forsupplying the materials to the Govt& PSU sectors etc.

Mr. Manohar Choithani, ManagerMarketing, Bank of India, delivering

a Special Address

Shri Manohar Choithani, ManagerMarketing, Bank of India in Indiastated that the SME sector contrib-

utes significantly to the employmentand its contribution to GDP also con-firms its economic importance.However, in spite of the value itadds, SME's continue to beundersupplied with financial prod-ucts and services that would helpthem scale new heights. Accordingto the SME chamber of India,SME's play a vital role for thegrowth of Indian economy by con-tributing 45% of industrial output,40% of exports, employing 60 mil-lion people, creating 1.3 million jobsevery year and producing more than8000 quality products for the Indianand International market. SME'scontribution towards GDP in 2011was 17% which is expected to in-crease to 22% this year.SME's arenow exposed to greater opportuni-ties than ever for expansion anddiversification across the sectors.

Looking into above facts, Bank ofIndia has opened 21 centralisedSME city centres all over India,mostly based in major towns withdedicated SME sales force andseparate relationship managementteam. So today, they focus onoutrech rather than responding towalk-ins only.

Mr. Ankur Sachdeva, Vice-PresidentMarketing, CARE Rating Agency,

delivering a Special Address

Mr. Ankur Sachdeva, Vice-PresidentMarketing, CARE Rating Agency,through his power point presenta-tion explained about the rating meth-

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odology and significance of Exter-nal Credit Rating for MSME.

He further explained in detail aboutthe concept of Credit Rating, whatit represents and doesn't represent.He also gave detailed explanation

on peration and financial risk fac-tors. The topics like rating optionsfor MSMEs, NSIC Care perfor-mance and Credit Rating for MSEs,long and short term rating scale-bank facilities were also covered indetail. Mr. Sachdeva further ex-

plained the need for rating supportedby the benefits of same and con-cluded with the initiative of NSICproviding subsidy in the fee struc-ture of Care Rating Agency.

NEWS

TCL 2012, the InternationalConference on Textiles Coatingand Laminating 2012

TCL 2012, the International Con-ference on Textiles Coating andLaminating 2012, is to be held inthe prestigious Valencia ConferenceCentre in the beautiful and historiccity of Valencia, Spain, on 15 -16November 2012. The Textile Asso-ciation (India) is supporting Asso-ciation and JTA is Media Partnerfor this Conference.

Over nearly 20 years, the Interna-tional Conference on Textile Coat-ing and Laminating has built a repu-tation as a vital meeting place forthe worldwide coating and laminat-ing industry. Very different from anacademic research meeting, TCL isa venue for practical presentationsfocussing on what is happening inthe industry today and what willhappen tomorrow. Supplemented byintensive discussion sessions activelyled by the session chairs, TCL isthe meeting place for senior mana-gerial, technical and marketing stafffrom the international coating andlaminating industry.

Keynote speaker will be the CEO

of Cooley Group, Dan Dwight, whowill address many of the most topi-cal concerns of manufacturing in-dustry by speaking about Global Ex-pansion through Sustainability andSocial Responsibility. Mr Dwightwill draw not only on his experi-ences with Cooley but also on hiswork in renewable energy and histime at General Electric to showhow sustainability and social respon-sibility improve long-term value cre-ation.

The conference will include presen-tations on:

� Production processes; Multi-functional textiles; Base fabricinteraction

� New materials; Microencapsu-lation; Nanotechnology andnanofibres

� Plasma treatment; Welding;Specialty laminates

The topics will be discussed in re-lation to:

� Practicality; Cost-effectiveness;New opportunities and applica-tions

� Environmental impact andsustainability

A special program on the afternoonof the second day will look at arange of important and emergingapplications for coated and lami-nated materials.

Who should attend?� Managing Directors, CEO's,

Presidents and other seniormanagers of companies involvedwith the textile coating and lami-nating industry, whether suppli-ers, processors, or end users.

� Technical directors and manag-ers concerned with the latestdevelopments in fibres, fabrics,adhesives, ?lms, polymers, coat-ing and laminating techniques,converting, etc

� Marketing directors and man-agers who need to keep up todate with market developmentsand the prospects for coatedand laminated textiles

� Industry analysts and othersconcerned with the future of theglobal textiles coating and lami-nating industry.

Early-bird registrationNow open at www.intnews.com/TCL2012.More informationwww.intnews.com/TCL2012 orsales@intnews.com

Texttreasure

If your actions inspire othersto dream more, learn more, domore and become more, youare a leader.

- John Quincy Adams

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ITMA, the world's most establishedtextile and garment machinery ex-hibition, will put the spotlight on in-novations that promote sustainabilityfor its 17th presentation in Milan,Italy, in 2015. A trendsetting show-case of exciting innovations since1951, the theme chosen for the 2015edition is 'Master the Art of Sus-tainable Innovation'.

Mr Stephen R Combes, Presidentof CEMATEX, which owns theshow, said: "The drive towardssustainability is increasingly inte-grated with enlightened businesspractices. The keyword here is'sustainability', and we hope indus-try members will join us in this re-sponsible mission to promote moreeco-friendly solutions and practicesfor the entire textile and garmentvalue chain."

ITMA 2015 will continue to be anindustry leading platform for thetextile and garment community. Itis expected to span over100,000sqm of net exhibit space andattract over 1,400 exhibitors. MissMaria Avery, Secretary-General ofCEMATEX, said: "In 2011, we in-troduced several new ideas thathave enhanced the participation ofall stakeholders. They included theinaugural World Textile Summit andSustainable Textile LeadersRoundtable Dialogue. These wereimmensely popular and we intendto continue with them. We hope tofurther enhance the relevance andlook at how we can better supportthe green theme."

New initiatives to drive indus-try forward

Among the new initiatives that will

be organised in line with the themeare conferences and workshops onsustainable innovations. The exhibi-tion will also have a bigger focuson the waste management and re-cycling sector. In addition, for theresearch and education (R&E) sec-tor, more emphasis will be placedon innovations that promotesustainability.

Ms Sylvia Phua, CEO of MP Inter-national which is organising ITMA2015, added: "ITMA has alwaysbeen a catalyst for industry com-petitiveness for over 60 years. Be-sides the mindset change, we be-lieve that innovative technologieshold the key to environmentalsustainability."

MP International will be workingclosely with CEMATEX and otherkey associations to ensure the newinitiatives are relevant for industryplayers to allow for maximum ben-efits for their participation.Besidesthe value-added initiatives, ITMAremains the global marketplace andone-stop sourcing platform foremerging trends and innovative so-lutions.

Fashion capital presents a venueof choice

An ideal city to host ITMA 2015,Milan is widely recognised as oneof the world's fashion capitals, witha long history within the fashion,clothing and textile industries. Host-ing ITMA for the fifth time, the citycontinues to draw fashion aficiona-dos, supermodels and internationalmedia twice yearly for its spring andautumn fairs.

Fiera Milano Rho boasts one of thelargest fairgrounds in the world,

spanning 345,000 square metres ofcovered gross exhibition space. Thevenue is well-equipped with some10 conference halls and a host ofrestaurants, bars and coffee houses.Designed by architect MassimilianoFuksas, Fiera Milano Rho is locatedin the west of Milan and connectedto the city centre via a dedicatedmetro station, Rho Fiera. It is alsoserved by railway and there are14,000 parking spaces for visitors.Fiera Milano Rho is also the site ofWorld Expo 2015, which will takeplace from May to October 2015.

ITMA 2015 will be held from 12 to19 November, and space applica-tion for the exhibition opens in mid2013. For more information and up-dates, please visit www.itma.com.

For more information, please contact:

Miss Maria Avery Ms Daphne PoonMs Jody TeoCEMATEXMP International Pte Ltd MP Interna-tional Pte LtdTel: +44 7967 477305Tel: +65 6393 0238 Tel: +65 6393 0248Email: info@cematex.comEmail:daphnepoon@mpinetwork.com,www.cematex.comjodyteo@mpinetwork.comwww.mpinetwork.com

ITMA 2015 to drive sustainable innovationsin textile and garment machinery

17th edition returns to sizzling fashion capital of Milanfor the fifth time

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Textsmile

A : I have the perfect son.B : Does he smoke?A : No, he doesn't.B : Does he drink whiskey?A : No, he doesn't.B : Does he ever come home

late?A : No, he doesn't.B : I guess you really do have

the perfect son. How oldis he?

A : He will be six months oldnext Wednesday.

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SUPER TEX had participated inITMA ASIA + CITME 2012,Shanghai China exhibition. Theywere the only cots and aprons manu-facturer from India who participatedin this exhibition.

SUPER TEX displayed all types ofcots and aprons used for Spinning /Twxturising / Air Jet / CompactSpinning machines. SUPER TEX iswell represented in China in Spin-ning & Texturising Industry. It hasmultiple agents who handle SUPERTEX products efficiently in differ-ent parts of China.

View of the stall in exhibition

We would say the response wasaverage the reason being the in-creasing number of textile exhibi-tions has internationally & region-

SUPER TEX inITMA ASIA +CITME 2012

ally. Almost every country that isin textile manufacturing has theirown local / regional exhibition in theircountry and all the information isavailable at the doorstep. Most ofthe visitors in the spinning sectionwere from China followed by IN-DIA, Pakistan, Iran & Indonesia.

The local spinning industry in Chinais slowing down as it is facing chal-lenges of high labor & electricitycost added by economic crisesworldwide. The new spinning invest-ments are very few this years ascompared what it was during thelast decade. China is mostly depen-dent on export market as it hasmore spindles (80-90 million) thanrequired for the domestic market.Other few reasons for this may bethe fluctuation in the raw materialprices, which has started since2008-2009 and currency (RMB)appreciation since last 3-4 years.

SUPER TEX is trying to penetratein China market as they still see lotof space to penetrate in this marketand are putting more efforts for thesame.

A situation of production lines stop-ping suddenly due to small metalparticles entangling in the textile,resulting in damage of some crucialcomponents of a machine is expe-rienced by customers. The damageto the machine components and thestoppage of the production linesresults in safety issues and hugelosses. To avoid this, it is necessaryto install a metal detector which canprotect the production lines against

all metals.

A.T.E. having made its strong pres-ence in the textiles sector, with morethan 7+ decades has already estab-lished itself as a "one window solu-tions" provider. A.T.E. has now alsomade its presence felt in the fieldof processing accessories, whilesimultaneously expanding in otherbusiness areas. With our recent tie-up with CEIA and establishment

of our new division "ProcessingAccessories", we aim to offer solu-tions in safety and savings.

With this tie -up, the strongest pointto be mentioned is CEIA SpA, ourItalian partner, are pioneers in thisfield, with a complete robotized plant& a strong team dedicated towardsR & D. CEIA already has 56 pat-ents in the field of electro magne-tism, and they also have to theircredit of supplying 100 thousandunits across world -wide in variousfields of industrial and non-indus-trial metal detection.

They cater to various sectors suchas transportation, shipping, pharma-ceuticals, food industry, agriculture,textiles, plastics, mining, construc-tion & various other sectors.

CEIA metal detectors have highreliability and are based on plug andplay concept with built-in functionfor automatic measurement of theexternal interferences. CEIA - theleading & a premier security pro-vider, along with A.T.E., a textileengineering giant, with their recentassociation are hopeful of creatingnew success stories for their cus-tomers.

References : We have suppliedCEIA metal detector TE - SLD toKriplon synthetics, Mandhana dye-ing, Bombay Rayon Fashion Lim-ited, Balkrishna synthetics - Boisar,Shivalik Prints - Faridabad, AlpsIndustries - Meerut.

A.T.E. and CEIA - providingassurance to your machinesagainst foreign metal particles

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"VASTRA" - 2012 is a comprehen-sive trade fair and conference onTextile and Apparel. It promises toshowcase the best and latest intextiles from - Fibre to Fashion,covering a complete range of HighFashion Women, Men & Kinds(Casual & Formal) Wears, SpecialtyGarments, Sportswear, Knitwear,Fashion & Accessories, Home Fur-nishings & Made-Ups, Bed Linen,Bath Towels, Curtains, KitchenLinen, Napkins Cushion Covers,Floor Mats, Curtains & Embellish-ment, Fabrics & Garments, Syn-thetic & Rayon Fabrics, HandmadeFibres & Blends, Cotton Fabrics,Woolen Fabrics, Yarn & Made Ups,Technical Textiles, Handmade SilkArt Silk & Silk Sarees, Made UpsDress Materials, Fashion Wears,Drill Crapes, Satin, Twill Sarees &Handkerchiefs, Blankets, Shawls,Strolls and Made Ups, HandloomClothing, Handloom Bed Covers /Spreads, Handloom Curtains, Car-pets, Durries and Rugs, TextileBased Handicrafts, FashionJewellery and Accessories, JuteSpecialties, Packaging Materials,Floor Coverings , Sopping and CarryBags, Wool And Woolen Products,Made Ups, Dress Materials etc.Handicrafts and Fashion Accesso-ries Etc. Traditional Textiles, Tex-tile Technology and Machineries.

Objectives of VASTRA 2012 -

� Showcasing India as sourcingHub and investment destination

� Showcasing the entire valuechain - Fibre to Fashion

� Presenting business opportuni-ties

"VASTRA" - 2012- An InternationalTextile & Apparel Fair22-25, November 2012, Jaipur, Rajasthan

� Showcasing latest in technologyand applications

� Bridging gap between Indianand Global companies throughjoint ventures, setting up ofR&D base and strategic alli-ances

� Creating platform of interactionwith experts, scientists, techno-crats, Govt. agencies in textilesand garment

� Showcasing infrastructure avail-ability for textile industry

� Discussions and deliberations onproduct and process improve-ment, new applications, research& development, new trends andfashion, environmental concern.

Federation of Indian Chambers ofCommerce and Industry (FICCI) &Rajasthan State Industrial Develop-ment and Investment CorporationLtd. (RIICO) are jointly organising"VASTRA - An International Tex-tile and Apparel Fair 2012"(VASTRA - 2012) scheduled from22nd to 25th November, 2012 atEPIP, Sitapura, Jaipur, India.This isbeing supported by Ministry of Tex-tiles, Government of India.VASTRA-2012 offers a host ofbusiness opportunities to the exhibi-tors and visitors :-Showcasing products and capabili-ties for business enhancementLaunching new productsCreating brand awarenessEnhancing corporate imageNew applications and solutionsSourcing latest in products and tech-nologiesBusiness meetings and networkingopportunities

Joint Ventures, Collaborations, Stra-tegic AlliancesNew InvestmentsExposure to infrastructure availabil-ity

Product Profile

VASTRA-2012 aims to showcasethe entire value addition chain fromfibre to fashion - products as wellas technology.

FibreYarnFabricGarments & ApparelsMade ups and accessoriesTechnical TextilesFashion TrendsTraditional TextilesTechnology and MachineriesInfrastructure for textile industry inIndia.

VASTRA Exhibition Highlights

First ever international exhibition on.Textiles & Apparel in IndiaMore than 10000 sq.mtr. exhibitionareaMore than 500 exhibitors acrossentire textile value addition chain -Products, Machineries, TechnologyInternational participationStates` pavilionsFashion show, Business showsFashion Designers & StudiosLive demonstration of traditionaltextile craftConcurrent conferencesBusiness & Networking opportuni-tiesInternational and Indian delegationsBuyer - Seller MeetParticipation by Government Agen-cies

Exhibitors Profile

Manufacturers and suppliers of :

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Mr. Arvind Kumar Upadhyay isB.Tech & M.Tech. (Textile Tech-nology), from Govt. Central TextileInstitute, Kanpur. He is a dynamicand result oriented techno commer-cial textile executive with proventrack record and has expertise inturning around the operations. Hehas 35 years of association with Or-ganizations of high repute in Indiaand abroad named as SKNL,Dewas.

Mr. A.K. Upadhyay is presentlyworking as Vice President, OCM,

Congratulations

India Ltd., Amritsar was recentlyon 26th May 2012, awarded withManagement Excellence Award byManagement & Industrial Develop-ment Institute, Jalandhar (Punjab).

He has worked with operations asCOO, Raymond, Digjam, BhojsonsIndustries, Lagos, Nigeria as Direc-tor Operations Rupa Mills (ExRaymond), Kenya as Director Tech-nical. Mr. Upadhyay is having a highdegree of adaptability by workingin various textiles fields has beenthe hallmark of his career. He has

Mr. A.K. Upadhyay receiving Award by hands ofHonorable Shri Bhagat Chunni Lal, Cabinet Minister, Punjab

functional versatility of a completetextile Executive with conceptualvision and thinking for Innovation& continuous up-gradation. He ac-tively involved in the policy forma-tion for the survival of M.P. TextileIndustries and Textile Industry inNigeria through the Umbrella Or-ganization of Nigerian Textile MillsManufacturers Association for fix-ing tariffs and other fiscal measuresincluding the dealing with W.T.O.by the Govt. for the protection ofLocal Industries.

Mr. Arvind Upadhyay was pastChairman of The Textile Associa-tion (India), M.P. Unit and underhis leadership TAI - M.P. Unit or-ganized a 65th All India TextileConference in a grand success. Hewas also a Member of CorporateAdvisory Board in Prestige instituteof Management, Dewas, M.P.

In this joyous moment on behalf ofThe Textile Association (India)heartily congratulates him for thisprestigious award. Associationwishes him all the best for his fu-ture and endeavors for scaling newheights.

Entire product value chain - Fibreto FashionPlant & machineryAccessoriesDyes & ChemicalsTechnology suppliersFashion designersCountries and States through spe-cific pavilions

Sectoral Industry Associations, In-ternational Industry AssociationsResearch and Development, Edu-cation and Training Institutions

"VASTRA"-2012 is planned to high-light business opportunities and pro-vide opportunities for exploring av-enues for new business relation, joint

ventures, strategic alliance and part-nerships worldwide. It will providea platform for interaction with For-eign buyers through pre fixed B2Bmeetings and also interaction withexperts and R & D labs for solu-tions in latest designs & trendsbesides textile technology.

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Grow your organization’s

business share through JTA

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Rieter looks back on asuccessful

ITMA Asia + CITME 2012

Rieter's trade-fair appearance wasdistinguished by many interestingdiscussions on the 4 spinning sys-tems and on the complete solutionsoffered by Rieter. Energy savingsand high fiber utilization were thecentral focus of visitors' interest.The red armchair from "The Com-fort of Competence" campaign willbe a lasting memory with visitors tothe Rieter exhibition stand inShanghai.

The Comfort of Competence

Rieter is the leading supplier forplants producing yarns from short-staple fibers. As a competent part-ner, Rieter makes the customers'lives easier and supports them fromthe initial investment discussionsright up to the successful operationof a spinning plant. Expertise from

the fiber to the yarn and the fin-ished textiles are the basis for inno-vative machines and unvarying yarnquality.

All this was demonstrated by Rieteron the exhibition stand at the ITMAAsia + CITME 2012 in Shanghai.The Red Armchair - The Comfortof CompetenceThe chance to be photographed inthe red armchair with the 4 Rietermodels was a highlight for manyvisitors to the Rieter stand and drewa smile from many. The armchairsymbolizes "The Comfort of Com-petence" and the 4 models weredressed in garments made from the4 Rieter yarns.

A recent recommendation by theMinistry of Corporate Affairs tomake it mandatory for companiesin the Large & Medium Sector topledge 2% of their Annual Profitsfor CSR activities was met withsuch vocal criticism that the GOIcaved into their demands andshelved the resolution. In total con-trast and contradiction OGTC, theapparel gateway to India, which in-cludes a consortium of Small & Me-dium Scale Industries, has beenconsistently working to better thecause of its employees, the societyand the planet.On a typically hot Indian summernight on June 27th, 2012 membersof OGTC gathered at the IndiaHabitat Centre, New Delhi to cel-ebrate the 8th year of OGTC's in-ception. The event's Chief Guestwas Mr. Paolo Guidotti, CountryManager-India Timberland. Distin-

guished Guests were from all fac-ets of the industry - including Govt.officials Manufactures, Retailers,Media and Consultants.

Chief Guest Mr. Paolo GuidottiDelivering Special Address

OGTC takes Social Responsibilityvery seriously. Since it's inceptionin 2004, the body has been quietlyworking at the grass root level con-ducting a number of activities whichinclude - Health Check-Up Campsfor employees, Awareness againstChild Labour, Training and Employ-

ment to the Physically Challenged,Cancer Awareness, Women Em-powerment, Lean Transformation,productivity improvements, QualityImprovement, Merchandiser's SkillDevelopment, Fire Safety, etc. At the 8th Annual Function to cel-ebrate OGTC's inception, the Gar-ment Cluster added another featherin its cap, by becoming the firstSME Garment Cluster in the worldto launch the Carbon FootprintingProject.As recognition of contribution toCSR the companies who had orga-nized Health & Eye Check upcamps were awarded certificatesjointly by Lions Service Trust andOGTC.

Mr. PMS Uppal President deliveringPresidential Address

8th Annual Function on 27th June 2012 at IndiaHabitat Centre-New Delhi OGTC taking Corporate

Social Responsibility to a new level:

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Opening the proceedings, Mr. M.KMehra - Director, OGTC, intro-duced the concept of 'CarbonFootprinting' that OGTC had under-taken. He spoke of the importanceof the issue and how essential itwas for the planet to work on car-bon emission mitigation. In a similarvein, Mr. PMS Uppal - President,OGTC and Mr. R C Kesar - Di-rector General, highlighted howOGTC was keen on tackling theissue of global warming at the grassroot level. They spoke of OGTC'sconsistent commitment to theiremployees through various pro-grams that they have initiated -Lean Management, Carbon Man-agement, Health & Safety, etc toget them to participate better andbe motivated. Keeping in mind theneed for the common man to alsoget involved in the exercise theyspoke of the Training programsconducted as part of the CarbonFootprint project. Interestingly thetraining programs were conductedat all levels - senior management,sourcing heads, mid-level, juniormanagement and even the Floormanagers of the participating units.A total of 13 units (details below),under the OGTC banner voluntarilyopted to participate in the programand calculate their carbon footprint.

Releasing of OGTC Newsletter byChief Guest Mr. Paolo Guidotti

Mr. Kesar also spoke of recogni-tion of OGTC's work on the socialfront and announced about howOGTC were awarded the Bronze

medal by the European ClusterExcellence Initiative Bronze LabelCertificate for their work onsustainability and social responsibil-ity.

Mr. Paolo Guidotti Chief Guestpresented Benchmarking Certificate

to Mr. PMS Uppal

Before the Presentation by Mr.Pranam Reddy, Senior ManagingConsultant from Cool Earth (Car-bon Management consultants), lightswere dimmed for the release ofOGTC Goes green Poster by theChief Guest. He spoke of the im-portance of Carbon Managementand showcased the actions on theground of various retailers acrossthe globe on carbon emission man-agement. The progress of the Car-bon Footprint project was highlightedand an explanation of the various

steps involved in the implementa-tion of the project was provided.

Eminent Personalities at theFunction

The final speaker of the night wasChief Guest Mr. Paolo Guidotti,Timberland. Lauding the efforts ofOGTC, he was very appreciativeof the coordinated action taken up.More impressive was the fact thatsuch an exercise was taken upvoluntarily without any compulsion/ stipulation from the retailers orcustomers of OGTC. Sharing de-tails of Timberland's efforts on thehome front and the various initia-tives in place within their organiza-tion, he highlighted the growingimportance to the issue & attentionbeing given by the major retailers.Going forward there is little doubtthat more suppliers across the globewould be asked to work on report-ing their carbon emission footprint.

A group of 9 individuals consists ofMaj. R.P. Poddar & Dr. N.M. Swamifrom India, Dr. S.K. Song, Dr. S.Y. Kim& Dr. Soukil Mah from South Korea,Dr. C.H. Lin & Dr. S.C. Yao from Tai-wan, Dr. Masao Takahashi from Ja-pan and Dr. K.W. Yeung from HongKong, who discussed and drafted theMoA were its signatory, originatorand the main founders of the Federa-tion of Asian Professional Textile As-sociation (FAPTA). Besides these 9founder members, there are no otherfounder members of FAPTA.

Mr. M.K. Mehra, being President of

the host unit, was the founder Presi-dent and Mr. P.S. Jain as Chairman ofthe Conference Committee for 1st ATCorganized by TAI Delhi unit at NewDelhi in 1991.

Next ATC-12 will be held at China in2013 and Prof. Jae R. Youm will be theChairman for the same. All related tex-tile educational & research Institutesare invited to take participation in thisconference and visit their officialwebsite for more information. Websitedetails will be announced in our Jour-nal and on TAI website.

ASIAN TEXTILE CONFERENCE

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NEWS

Nirmala Niketan College of HomeScience, University of Mumbai,Mumbai - INDIA is hosting andorganizing An International Confer-ence on Health, Wellbeing, andSustainability. Opportunities, Chal-lenges and Future Directions on 10th- 12th January 2013

The College, founded in the year1955, is one of the premier HomeScience Colleges in India and hasthe unique distinction of being theonly Home Science College affili-ated to the University of Mumbai.It is a 'grant-in-aid' Institution, man-aged by the Nirmala Niketan Insti-tute, with the primary aim of em-powering women to face the chal-lenges of a changing modern India.

It offers an education that rangesfrom the junior college to the doc-toral program. Students can spe-cialize in one of the four disciplines:

� Foods, Nutrition and Dietetics,

� Human Development,

� Textile and Fashion Technology

� Community Resource Manage-ment

About the Conference

International Conference 2013 on"Enhancing Health, Wellbeing andSustainability - Opportunities, Chal-lenges and Future Directions" willbe an International Forum for those

An International Conference on Health,Wellbeing, and Sustainability -

who wish to present their projectsand innovations, having also theopportunity to discuss the main as-pects and the latest results in thefield of Education and Research.

It is hoped that interactions at theconference will help deal with theabove issues and challenges andothers raised in the course of thedeliberations.

1. Environmental Concerns andSustainability

2. Social Justice Issues andSustainability

3. Health and Wellbeing4. Positivity and Wellness

Important Dates� Last date to submit Abstract -

31st August 2012� Last date to issue Notification

of acceptance of abstract -30th September 2012

� Early bird registration - 15thOctober 2012

� Last date to submit authors'registration - 15th October2012

� Last date to submit final fulllength paper - 23rd November2012

Who should attend this Confer-ence?This conference will be catering tostudents, academicians, practitioners,professionals from the industry, and

entrepreneurs, from varied disci-plines -

� Nutritionists� Dieticians� Medical and Allied Personnel� Psychologists� Psychologists� Counselors� Psychiatrists� Social Workers� Educationists� Textile Specialists� Textile Processors� Fashion Designers� Fashion Stylists� Garment Manufacturers and

Exporters� Interior Designers� Human Relations Managers� Anthropologists� Philosophers� Ergonomists� Environmentalists� Agriculturalists

� Supervisory personnel involvedin Housekeeping and Hospital-ity

� Media and Communication per-sonnel

� Human Resource Managementprofessionals

� Government and Non-Govern-mental organizational personnel.

For more details about the confer-ence visit : www.ic2013nn.com

Nirmala Niketan College of Home science

JTA : Comprehensive platform to serve

Readers & Advertisers

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Obituary

Prof. R.P. Gupta(1928-2012)

Prof. R.P. Gupta, most humble per-son of The Textile Association (In-dia), Baroda Unit, accidentallypassed away at the age of 84 yearson 03rd July 2012.

Prof. Gupta, B.Sc, D.T.C., AMIET(London) & ATA qualified, was avery active and indeed he playedvery important role not only forVadodara Unit, but he was a Na-tional figure and fountain of spirit.He always encouraged every oneand never talked bad about any one.In Vadodara, he tried to go out ofthe way to make G.C. memberscomfortable. The man always livedfor TAI activities and he actively

worked for it. He was always happyand never gets angry and also neverexpected personal benefits out ofany thing.

Prof. Gupta was very actively as-sociated with Textile Association(India), Baroda Unit since 1966 andworked on various positions as Hon.Secretary, Vice President and Presi-dent of Association. He was seniormost G.C. member and trustee ofthe TAI central office. Also he wasa member of various committees.Under his dynamic leadership TAIBaroda unit, was awarded twiceBest Unit trophy. Baroda Unithosted 3 All India Textile Confer-ences in Baroda (9th - 1952, 20th -1960 & 27th - 1970). Prof. Guptawas the first recipient of ServiceMemento in 1979 and then recipi-ent of Service Gold Medal in 1982awarded by the Textile Association(India) during the All India TextileConferences. He has publishednumber of articles in journals.

Prof. Gupta served in M.S. Univer-sity in Dept of Chemistry for 34years and then 10 years as facultymember and 20 years as ACC of-ficer. He represented M.S. Univer-

sity for more than 15 times in interuniversity competitions in variouscities of India. He was also SeniorPress Supervisor in Universitypress. Prof. Gupta also contributedhis services more than 20 years asSenior Tabulator in preparing Uni-versity results.

Prof. R.P. Gupta basically a R.S.S.Volunteer (since year 1940), wasalso actively associated with sev-eral local social and educationalorganizations. He used to conveythe slogan that "Be happy, be laugh-ing and live healthy". He was verypunctual in time bond and not hav-ing any sort of habits other thanphysical exercises in which he isexpert & master.

The Textile Association (India) willnever forget his missionary servicesand feel honor for providingyeoman's service to The TextileAssociation (India). We pray Al-mighty to bestow eternal peace tothe departed soul. We also prayAlmighty to give bereaved familymembers all the courage to with-stand the loss.

The French Textile MachineryManufacturers invited the press atthe end of ITMA ASIA + CITMEin Shanghai this June 2012. The in-formal and friendly meeting madepossible direct contacts between thetextile journalists and the machin-ery manufacturers, theirAssociation's President, BrunoAMELINE and Secretary General,Evelyne CHOLET.

- Business was good at ITMAASIA."Our customers are finalising manyprojects and, as our orders backlog

is already good, delivery time is in-creasing for all the machinery pro-ducers. Customers from China ofcourse but also from India, Paki-stan, Thailand and Iran visited ourbooths, they were particularly inter-ested by our new technologies andour service approach¡¨ reportsEvelyne CHOLET.Some manufacturers were particu-larly enthusiastic about future busi-ness in India, where the textile in-dustry needs an urgent moderniza-tion even though the implementa-tion of the Technology Upgradation

Fund Scheme (TUFS) put in placeby the Indian government is goingthrough some delays. Also somedelays are noticed in Middle East-ern countries due to the politicalturmoils which took place."But what is important analyzesBruno AMELINE is that our cus-tomers have a real willingness toinvest for the future of their owncompanies. They are aiming at newmarkets, new products, and re-source efficient production pro-cesses which bring raw materialsand energy savings, and they knowthey can rely on us to be their tech-nology partners in many sectors".- But the main topic at the press

War against copycats at ITMA ASIA

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The third ITMA ASIA + CITMAexhibition geared up to showcasethe latest technology in textile ma-chinery for five days from 12th June2012 at the Shanghai New Interna-tional Expo Centre (SNIEC), Shang-hai, China.

Despite current challenges in theeconomic climate, owners of ITMAASIA + CITME held the expo onadditional exhibition space to meetexhibitors demand. With the addi-tional 6000 sqm exhibition space, theexpo has a gross area of 132,000square metres i.e. 30% larger thanthe previous show in 2010 and morethan 1230 exhibitors from 27 coun-tries and regions have participatedat the 5 day event.

The expo has drawn overwhelmingresponse from Asian buyers, espe-cially Chinese visitors from majortextile making hubs in the country.In todays' challenging business land-scape, there is big demand for cost-effective solution, Asian industryplayers are looking at a greaterreturn on their investment and tofind out the need among the com-prehensive range products from thisshow.

Interest in the combined show re-

mained extremely strong, especiallyfrom Chinese textile machinerymanufacturers, as China's textileIndustry continues to transform, thedemand for advanced machineryand technology is on the rise. ChinaCustoms statistics reveal thatChina's textile machinery foreigntrade registered a year-on-yeargrowth of 25% to reach US$ 7.6billion in 2011. Of this sum, exportsamounted to US$ 2.25 billion whileimports totaled US$ 5.36 billions.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 boasta huge showcase of exhibits dis-played over 17 sectors, ranging fromspinning, nonwovens, weaving, knit-ting, processing, finishing, testing,handling to packing. Chinese exhibi-tors made the biggest country group,booked around 50% of the totalexhibition space. Next to China, thebigger participating countries interms of space booking were Ger-many, Italy, Japan and Switzerland.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 wasorganized by the Beijing TextileMachinery International ExhibitionCo. Ltd. and Co-organized by MPInternational Pte. Ltd. The JapanTextile Machinery Association(JTMA) was a special partner as-

sociation of the show. It is ownedby the CEMATEX, the Sub Councilof Textle Industry of the ChinaCouncil for the promotion of Inter-national Trade (CCPITTEX), theCTMA, and the China InternationalExhibition Center Group Corp(CIEC).

On behalf of The Textile Associa-tion (India), Mr. J.B. Soma, Pub-lisher, Journal of the Textile Asso-ciation visited the ITMA ASIA +CITME 2012 exhibition, Shanghai.

ITMA ASIA + CITME drawnoverwhelming response

NEWS

meeting was the war againstcopycats."It is a global war, said BrunoAMELINE. We fight and will con-tinue to fight all over the worldbecause our strategy is based onResearch and Development, ontechnology breakthroughs and onprotecting our patents, brands or anyother intellectual rights."Fortunately this fight against copy-cats which is part of the interna-tional trade agreements is given

more and more support by the gov-ernments and the judicial systems.In China, for example, some verypositive judgments have given ourmembers significant damages forinfringement by unfair competitorsand some of these have even beensentenced to jail.Such organizations as ITMA ASIA+CITME are also helping the cre-ative machinery manufacturersagainst unfair competition and ma-chines were covered during the fair

because they were found to infringeon other exhibitors' patents.UNION DES CONSTRUCTEURSDE MATERIEL TEXTILE DEFRANCE FRENCH TEXTILEMACHINERY MANUFACTUR-ERS' ASSOCIATION92038 PARIS LA DEFENSECEDEX - FRANCETel : (33) 1 47 17 63 45Fax : (33) 1 47 17 63 48http : //www.ucmtf.com - e-mail :info@ucmtf.com

Textsmile

Two factory workers are talking.The woman says, "I can make theboss give me the day off."The man replies, "And how wouldyou do that?"The woman says, "Just wait andsee." She then hangs upside-downfrom the ceiling.The boss comes in and says, "Whatare you doing?"The woman replies, "I'm a lightbulb."The boss then says, "You've beenworking so much that you've gonecrazy. I think you need to take theday off."The man starts to follow her andthe boss says, "Where are you go-ing?"The man says, "I'm going home,too. I can't work in the dark."

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FORTHCOMING EVENTS

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International Yarn ExhibitionDate : 31 Aug. -02 Sept. 2012Venue : IKF complex, TiruppurOrganizer : SS Textile Media Private LimitedContact : Mr. P. Krishna MurthyTel. : +91-80-41151841 Send Online Enquiry

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51st Dornbirn Man - Made Fiber CongressDate : September 19 - 21, 2012Venue : The Kulturhaus Dornbirn Congress Centre,

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28th IAF World Apparel Convention 2012Date : September 24 - 28, 2012Venue : Sheraton Parto Hotel & Spa, (Oporto),

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Romerstrasse 2, A-6900 Bregenz, AustriaTel. : +31 30 232 09 01Fax : +31 30 232 09 99E-mail : solle@iafnet.com

6th Aachen Dresden Internationl Textile Confer-ence 2012Aachen Dresden is an international textil confer-ence specially for the experts in the field of Tex-tile Chemistry, Finishing & Functionalization.Date : November 29 -30, 2012Venue : GermanyContact : Ms Annett Dorfel

Institue of Textile Machinery and High Per-formance Material Technology at TUDresden, Germay

Tel. : +49 (0)351 463 39321E-mail : annett.doerfel@tu-dresden.de

www.aachen-dresden-itc.de

IGATEX 2012Largest Textile & Garment Machinery ExhibitionDate : 3rd to 6th October 2012Venue : Expo Centre, Lahore, PakistanContact : Project Manager FAKT Exhibitors (Pvt)

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