in-cosmetics intelligence report 2013

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EXIBITION WATCH REPORT

In‐Cosmetics 2013 – Paris, Porte de Versailles Active ingredient, Testing, Regulation

Decoratives, Toiletries, Perfumes & Fragrances, Skin Care, Sun Care, Hair Care

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© VIEDOC – For any further information: [email protected]

TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT ................................................................................................................................................................ 4 RESUME ................................................................................................................................................................... 4 Part 1. innovations on testing, imaging ............................................................................................................ 5 1.1 Canfield imaging systems ...................................................................................................................... 5 1.1.1 Presentation ...................................................................................................................................... 5 1.1.2 Reveal® Imager and Visia‐CR ............................................................................................................. 5

1.2 Delfin Technologies ............................................................................................................................... 7 1.2.1 Presentation ...................................................................................................................................... 7 1.2.2 New technology for the measurement of skin elasticity .................................................................. 7

1.3 Quantificare ........................................................................................................................................... 8 1.3.1 Presentation ...................................................................................................................................... 8 1.3.2 Compact and portable 3D camera: the 3D LifeViz IITM .................................................................... 8

Part 2. innovations on ingredients for skin care ............................................................................................. 10 2.1 Naturex ................................................................................................................................................ 10 2.1.1 Presentation .................................................................................................................................... 10 2.1.2 NAT beauty™: African Botanicals for cosmetic uses ....................................................................... 10

2.2 Induchem ............................................................................................................................................. 13 2.2.1 Presentation .................................................................................................................................... 13 2.2.2 Neodermyl®: Bio‐energy for the extracellular matrix ..................................................................... 13

2.3 Mibelle Biochemestry .......................................................................................................................... 15 2.3.1 Presentation .................................................................................................................................... 15 2.3.2 PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum for regeneration vitality of aged stem cells ........................................ 15

2.4 Dupont Tate & Lyle BioProducts .................................................................... Erreur ! Signet non défini. 2.4.1 Presentation .............................................................................................. Erreur ! Signet non défini. 2.4.2 Zemea® Propanediol: A natural solvent for active ingredient .................. Erreur ! Signet non défini.

Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................................. 18 About VEILLE SALON ............................................................................................................................................. 19 PRESENTATION of VIEDOC SARL ........................................................................................................................... 20

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DISCLAIMER This report was compiled from interviews conducted by us with the exhibitors present at each event, from gathering and analyzing information in conferences and from the compilation of information on the web afterwards. Thus, the data contained in this report have information value. Although the objective is to disseminate timely and accurate information, VEILLE SALON cannot guarantee the result. Any damage that may result from use of this information can’t be imputed to this site. The use or reproduction of all or part of this document is prohibited without the prior written consent of VEILLE SALON. For full terms and conditions of use of this report, thank you for contacting us.

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ABSTRACT

The In‐Cosmetics 2013 exhibition held in Paris on 16th – 18th April, 2013, truly is the leading global business platform for personal care. Inside the “In Cosmetics” exposition, it was possible to see there is a clear trend toward natural products. There were lots of novel cosmetic oils from the Amazon, fragrant essential oils from Nepal, and Kampo traditional herbal skin formulas from Japan – all prepared in forms that make them ideal for use in cosmetic, skin and hair care products. Where once laboratory chemistry appeared to reign supreme, nature is re‐establishing dominance – but with a strong scientific backup. Today's portfolios of herbal ingredients come with dossiers of scientific substantiation, charts showing their chemistry, and even samples as examples of how these ingredients can be formulated into finished products. The French company Naturex is one of the leading companies in this natural trend for active ingredients. An additional strong theme at “In Cosmetics” is the demand for sustainability. The big cosmetic companies not only want their ingredients increasingly natural, but they are demanding sourcing that follows strict guidelines of ethical trade and environmental preservation. At “In Cosmetics,” what is old is new again. Plants of all kinds yield compounds that firm skin, reduce wrinkles, make hair shine, diminish cellulite, and enhance beauty in hundreds of ways. That means cleaner, safer cosmetic and body care products, less toxic waste, and perhaps even a healthier environment in the long run. Last but not least, in March 2013, European Union regulators announced a ban on the import and sale of cosmetics containing ingredients tested on animals and to pledge more efforts to push other parts of the world, like China, to accept alternatives. Even before the new rule was officially announced, the cosmetics company L’Oréal, which is based in France, said it would respect the ban and “no longer sell in Europe any finished product with an ingredient that was tested on animals”. This has a major impact on ingredient suppliers, which was promoted in vivo testing through clinical trials to prove how good their active ingredients are. Accordingly, new testing methods and new skin analysis imaging techniques were displayed in the exhibition. The French company Quantificare and its new 3D LifeViz Micro were quite impressive.

Key words: cosmectics, skin care, ingredient, beauty, wrinkle, make‐up, testing, imaging, active

RESUME

Le salon In‐Cosmetics 2013 s’est déroulé du 16 au 18 avril 2013 où il était question de l’industrie cosmétique du point de vue des fournisseurs d’ingrédient. Il a été possible de constater qu’il y a une grande tendance vers les produits naturels, au détriment des synthèses dans les laboratoires. L’industrie effectue un retour vers la nature vers des principes actifs d’origine biologique, qui ont la vertu d’être moins toxique, ce qui offre en partie de meilleures perspectives pour tester et valider ces ingrédients. En effet, l’Union Européenne a banni les essais sur animaux pour les produits cosmétiques et de grands acteurs comme l’Oréal appliquent cette politique sur leur fournisseur. D’où une seconde tendance vers des produits plus respectueux de l’environnement. Les techniques d’imagerie pour caractériser in vivo les principes actifs se sont également amélioré avec des solutions en 3D qui cartographie la surface et la profondeur des rides.

Mots clés : cosmétique, peau, ride, soin, ingrédient, beauté, maquillage, essai clinique, principe actif

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PART 1. INNOVATIONS ON TESTING, IMAGING

1.1 CANFIELD IMAGING SYSTEMS

1.1.1 Presentation

Address :Proostwtering 28A Utrecht 3543 AE Netherlands Website: http://www.canfieldsci.com

Contact : Tel:+31 302412131 (Tel) Fax: +31 238901947 (Fax)

Canfield Scientific is the largest provider of photographic documentation resources and services for research in the pharmaceutical, biotechnology and medical fields. Providing global support for more than 2,000 clinical studies to date, the Canfield excels in providing the expertise and product development knowledge crucial for successful image‐based data collection, analysis and submissions preparation for approval by governmental agencies. During its extensive work with photo documentation for research clients, Canfield Scientific has developed more than 500 unique imaging appliances for specific therapeutic photo documentation, simplifying and standardizing photo processes and eliminating imaging variables to provide consistent image quality throughout numerous research sites.

1.1.2 Reveal® Imager and Visia‐CR

On april 2012, Canfield has added another high‐tech facial imaging system to its line of digital imaging products that it says will help skin care professionals to diagnose a higher level of treatment, ultimately ‘turning a prospect into a customer. According to the New Jersey‐based company, the ‘Reveal Imager’ has the ability to quantify skin condition making it a powerful visual tool for motivating patients to proceed with skin care treatments as well as aesthetic procedures. Incorporating the company’s RBX Technology, the Reveal Imager homes in on subsurface pigmentation and vascular conditions, key areas in targeting what treatment will suit the client.

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The 3D viewer is said to reveal the skin’s surface in three dimensions from any angle, rendered in natural skin tone, color relief, or gray scale while the built‐in photography element provides repeatable images between time‐points with built‐in positioning aids to display every aspect of skin condition. Moreover, Canfield points out that the multi‐mode illumination tool uses standard white light and cross‐polarized flash photography to record surface and sub‐surface skin condition.

Canfield’s ‘Visia Complexion Analysis’ was introduced to the market in 2003, then, digital imaging had just come to the forefront of the industry for determining skin damage. Then, the company had announced the technology as making it possible to find out how fast the face and neck skin is destined to age and what damage has already been done.

The Reveal Imager incompasses key features of the Visia‐CR.

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1.2 DELFIN TECHNOLOGIES

1.2.1 Presentation

Address : PO Box 1199 Microkatu 1 Kuopio FIN‐70211 Finland Website : http://www.delfintech.com

Contact : M Aki Immonon Director, Marketing and Sales Tel: +358 509111199 Email: [email protected]

Delfin Technologies manufactures and markets innovative instruments for skin measurements. Our products are scientifically validated, well established and used in more than 30 countries. Displayed is the SkinGlossMeter for skin gloss changes, the VapoMeter for TEWL measurements, the unique MoistureMeterD for measuring water changes in deeper layers of the skin and the SebumScale, for skin sebum evaluation. We are launching the new MoistureMeterSC Compact for sensitive and local skin hydration measurements at the show. Delfin instruments are accurate, reliable and extremely practical to use. They are extensively used in the cosmetic industry for claims validation and formulation work.

1.2.2 New technology for the measurement of skin elasticity

In 2013, Delfin Technologies launched its new product named ElastiMeter, which is an elegant indentation instrument for skin elasticity measurements. It measures skin’s instant elasticity, without altering skin structure. The new portable ElastiMeter eliminates alteractions to skin that conventional skin elasticity measurement devices may cause. It is quick and practical measurement to use.

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The Elastimeter consists of a 1 mm length indenter, a reference plate and built‐in force sensors. The probe head is briefly pressed against the skin. The indenter imposes a constant deformation when the reference plate is in full contact with the skin. The skin resists the deformation and the skin’s instant elasticity is determined. This measurement principle is based on the analysis of the biomechanical response of the skin and subcutaneous tissue and it is mathematically modeled using 3D computational FE (Finite Element) analysis. The ElastiMeter may be used either as a stand‐alone device or measurement data may be collected wirelessly to the DelfWin software.

1.3 QUANTIFICARE

1.3.1 Presentation

Address :1180 Route des Dolines, Athéna B, BP 40051 Sophia Antipolis Cedex Provence‐Alpes‐Cote‐d'Azur 06901 France Website: http://www.quantificare.com

Contact : Tel: +33 492915443 Fax: +33 492919500

QuantifiCare is a dynamic and worldwide imaging CRO providing preclinical and clinical phase I‐IV services to the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, as well as quality products for specialists to answer their patient’s needs. 3D LifeVizTM is the flagship product from the company; it provides 3D life‐like and reproducible images and guarantees accurate quantitative measurements (volume, depth, surface) as well as comparison of before and after outcomes.

1.3.2 Compact and portable 3D camera: the 3D LifeViz IITM

The 3D Full Face is simply revolutionary and Quantificare made a breakthrough in this topic in 2013. Indeed, it

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is now possible to capture a full face thanks to a compact and portable 3D camera, the 3D LifeViz IITM, for a greater patient follow up and satisfaction. The technology includes dual beam pointers to measure the exact same distance from the patient, which ensures perfect image reproducibility and comparability through time. Moreover, it integrates a cross‐polarized flash which guarantees the same light and image quality.

The added value of the 3D technology enables professionals to visualize and compare images of their patients’ real face relief and contour, from any angle and in great detail, using one single shot. As the 2D image has shown its limits, a while ago, by only capturing the skin surface, it became indispensable to any aesthetics, cosmetic and plastic surgery specialist to use the 3D technology in their daily practice to highlight the face contouring and skin volume or depth analysis accuracy. 3D images are life‐like and patients can see themselves as they really are, which is very reassuring when they discuss their aesthetics and/or plastic surgery needs and expectations with their doctors. And last but not least, the product features an automatic image transfer! Whenever you take a shot, it is directly sent through Wi‐Fi onto your computer and on the DermaPix® software to allow you to immediately classify your patients’ pictures or proceed with the simulation and analysis work according to your needs.

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PART 2. INNOVATIONS ON INGREDIENTS FOR SKIN CARE

2.1 NATUREX

2.1.1 Presentation

Address : Site d'Agroparc BP 1218, Provence‐Alpes‐Cote‐d'Azur 84911 Avignon Cedex 9 France Website: http://www.naturex.com

Contact : Alexis LAVAUD Tel: +33 490239689 Fax: +33 490237340 Email: [email protected]

Naturex manufactures natural specialty ingredients for the Personal Care, Nutrition & Health and Food & Beverage industries. The company employs over 1,300 people with 15 production units and several sales offices worldwide. Naturex, the French group producing and marketing natural ingredients for the pharma, food and cosmetics industries, has reported an 18.2% rise in sales in 2012 to €299.8m. Pre‐tax profits went up 32.6% to €31.7m and net profits reached €22.9m in 2012 compared with €15.6m the year earlier. The company, based in Avignon, has benefited from its positioning both in mature and emerging markets. Emerging markets alone contributed 17.7% of group sales last year. Thierry Lambert, Naturex president, said long term growth potential would be strengthened in 2013 through intensified effort in R&D.

2.1.2 NAT beauty™: African Botanicals for cosmetic uses

NAT beauty™ is an innovative range of natural actives backed by scientific studies. Aurealis™, one of our NAT beauty™ star actives has demonstrated its effectiveness on skin glyco‐synthesis via a new clinical study. The NAT select™ botanical extract range is globally sourced and specifically formulated for the personal care industry. We will unveil a collection of premium African plants: Kigelia, Hibiscus, Green Rooibos, Kola nut, Cocoa, and Coffee.

From the Cederberg Mountains in South Africa to the tropical forest in Ivory Coast, Africa reveals a landscape in which nature delivers its full power. Naturex has initiated an original sourcing program in partnership with

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small producers and local associations in order to leverage plant resources dedicated to beauty. As a result of this program, the company is now uncovering a new collection called “Magic of Africa.” Ancestral continent, Africa is home to eight of the approximately thirty hotspots of biodiversity identified worldwide. Whether native or introduced, African botanicals take root with an almost supernatural force. Their rich and varied phytochemical profiles make them choice raw materials for the design of high potency extracts. The “Magic of Africa” collection was created from a selection of plants with the ability to address these three main principles: ‐ The efficacy of their traditional or modern use has been documented. ‐ They can be sustainably and responsibly cultivated in partnership with small producers. ‐ They are part of a process to preserve biodiversity and traditional knowledge.

Kola nut seeds from a kola tree, featuring caffeine bearing plants which are very rich in anti‐oxydants The collection begins its journey in Ivory Coast, unlocking the magic of green coffee bean, cocoa, and kola nut. It then moves inland to Burkina Faso where enchanting Hibiscus flowers await. Next, it continues south to Togo to uncover the mystical properties of the Kigelia tree. The trek comes to an end in South Africa where the powers of green rooibos come to life. Each of these natural ingredients is available as a standardized extract and can be tailored to meet all specific formulation requirements. The “Magic of Africa” provides inspiring resources for successful new product developments. African botanicals seem to be in the lead this year, and savvy buyers have their choice of various suppliers of shea butter – a silky cream base that already is enjoying explosive growth in lotions and creams worldwide. Kigelia, also known as ‘sausage tree,’ yields a funny‐looking elongated fruit that is capturing attention for its soothing and antibacterial properties. Used traditionally in Mozambique for wound healing, kigelia is heading for the cosmetic center stage as leading global brands are pondering its uses in upcoming formulations. Surprisingly, three botanicals used widely in the beverage business are finding new life in skin preparations. Unroasted green coffee from West Africa demonstrates anti‐aging and skin firming properties, and it also helps to promote the growth of new, healthy‐looking skin. This activity, largely due to a group of compounds called chlorogenic acids, is of keen interest to formulators of new cosmetic potions. So expect coffee to show up on your night cream ingredient list soon.

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Kigelia Africana and its hanging fruits (left) and hanging flowers (right) Kola nut, the same material used in cola soft drinks, has anti‐cellulite properties and shows value in reducing puffiness and dark circles under the eyes. Look for kola down the road in cellulite creams and eye care formulas.

Green and Ripe Coffee Beans on Tree The South African tea rooibos is being promoted for its anti‐aging properties for skin and its ability to help protect against sun damage. Expect to see rooibos in your summer sun protection products.

Rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) The thick, rubbery variety of hibiscus known as roselle not only makes a great‐tasting tea, but scientific studies show that the extract of this deep reddish purple blossom from Burkina Fasso has anti‐inflammatory properties and is perfect in preparations for sensitive skin. The deep red of this plant also makes it a good natural colorant. Different from the regular ornamental hibiscus, roselle, with its thick, rubbery leaves, is now widely cultivated – specifically for inclusion in body care products.

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Hibiscus sabdariffa has many names, like Florida cranberry, Roselle, Sorrel, Rosemallow.

2.2 INDUCHEM

2.2.1 Presentation

Address :Industriestrasse 8a Volketswil CH‐8604 Switzerland Website: http://www.induchem.com

Contact : Fabrice LEFEVRER&D and Marketing Director Tel : +41 449084331 Fax: +41 449084330

Induchem Companies is the common denomination of a group of companies belonging to Induchem Holding AG, Switzerland and aiming at being a top quality provider of premium ingredients and services to the cosmetic industry. Induchem is a leading Swiss producer of cosmetic actives, carrier systems and other raw material ingredients for the personal care and cosmetic industry. Induchem combines Swiss quality with cutting edge research to bring innovative specialty ingredients and technologies to the market. Induchem ingredients are distributed worldwide through a network of subsidiaries, distributors and agents. With more than 67 years of expertise in the cosmetic industry, Induchem has been well known for the quality and reliability of its ingredients. Over the past years, their scientific research has enabled the launch of pioneering molecules such as "anti‐UV vaccine" (Uvaxine®), the first biomimetic peptide acting on a delta‐opioid receptors (Rubixyl®) and a needle‐free hyaluronic filler (NovHyal® Biotech‐G).

2.2.2 Neodermyl®: Bio‐energy for the extracellular matrix

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Neodermyl®: the Youth Batteries Recharger. Neodermyl® is a pure source of bio‐renewable energy to reactivate collagens and elastin synthesis in the skin. This patented biotechnology active has been inspired by the biochemical analysis of skin’s metabolic pathways: Neodermyl® reenergizes senescent fibroblasts by bringing them an activated source of cellular energy. This results in a fast and sustainable production of Collagen III, Collagen I, Tropoelastin and Elastin. Neodermyl® shows flash results, with visible improvement of skin texture and reduction of wrinkles depth in two weeks (‐15% wrinkle depth reduction), with results comparable to an injection of collagen by a plastic surgeon.. Neodermyl® applications: products claiming for flash anti‐aging results (day and night creams, serums, lotions, fillers, sprays).

Induchem, the Swiss ingredients supplier, scooped gold in the In‐cosmetics Innovation Zone Best Ingredient award last night, with the industry praising the excellence of its new ingredient Neodermyl. The judges applauded Induchem for its scientific innovation in the development of Neodermyl, the use of green chemistry and the demonstrated efficacy of the ingredient that offers real benefits in formulation.

Fabrice Lefevre (R&D and marketing director of Induchem) collects gold at the In‐cosmetics 2013 Innovation Zone Best Ingredient award on 18th of April, 2013

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2.3 MIBELLE BIOCHEMESTRY

2.3.1 Presentation

Address :ZODIAC INTERNATIONAL 1, Quai de Grenelle 75015 PARIS, France Website: WWW.ZODIACMARINE.COM

Contact : Sébastien BOUTIER Tel : Mail:

Mibelle Biochemistry designs and develops innovative, high‐quality actives based on profound scientific know‐how. Their R&D team transforms naturally derived compounds into truly functional cosmetic ingredients. Mibelle Biochemistry possesses powerful encapsulation technologies that guarantee optimum bioavailability.

2.3.2 PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum for regeneration vitality of aged stem cells

PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum is based on stem cells from comfrey roots, which is an old medicinal plant known for its healing properties. It has clearly been shown to boost the regenerative power of epidermal stem cells and their ability to build new tissue. Even in pro‐aging conditions, PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum has been proven to increase the thickness of the epidermis (+ 88 %) that resulted in a vital skin with an improved barrier function. Every plant has stem cells. But unlike in humans, every plant cell has the potential to dedifferentiate to a stem cell and to grow into an entirely new, full plant. PhytoCellTec™ is the name of a new biotechnology that researchers from Mibelle Biochemistry have used successfully to generate and cultivate plant stem cells. With this technology, the growth of callus cells (wound tissue) in selected plant tissue is induced under special conditions. These callus cells are undifferentiated plant cells, in other words, stem cells. The second step involves further cultivating these stem cells in specially developed bioreactors to obtain sufficient plant stem cells. Mibelle Biochemistry has a patent pending on the application of plant stem cells to skin stem cells. The PhytoCellTec™ technology – which was recognized at the UNO Conference Rio+20 as an eco‐breakthrough – delivers a highly sustainable sourcing of this active. This is how plant stem cells are produced:

1. Petri dishes with selected sterilized plant parts

2. Plant is wounded ‐> fully‐formed callus (wound tissue)

3. Close‐up of callus tissue

4. Liquid culture of plant stem cells in a specially developed container

5. Cluster of plant stem cells in liquid culture under a microscope

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The skin protects our body from the environment. In order to perform this barrier function efficiently, the epidermis is constantly renewed and repaired by the epidermal stem cells. This constant renewal, which is important for the quality of the barrier, also ensures that the skin remains smooth and even. However, as we age, this renewal process slows down considerably due to the reduced regenerative capacity of the epidermal stem cells. This leads to a thinner, dry and rough skin that in turn results in a dull complexion. Renewal and repair are ongoing processes in the human body. Adult stem cells supply the necessary cells for this replacement. They have been identified in over 20 organs or tissues. Two key features set them apart from ordinary cells: They can differentiate into a diverse range of specialized cells of the same tissue and they have the remarkable ability to renew and regenerate themselves through cell division throughout a person's life. This makes stem cells especially valuable and important in regenerative skin care research. Adult stem cells are also present in the outer layer of human skin, the epidermis. These cells are called epidermal stem cells and are found in the innermost layer of the epidermis (basal layer). Every second to seventh cell in this layer is a stem cell. Although their appearance does not differ from that of the other cells in the basal layer, stem cells have a unique function: They constantly renew and rejuvenate the epidermis by forming new keratinocytes and regenerate damaged tissue as only these cells have the ability to divide indefinitely (see figure below)

Epidermis with epidermal stem cell Epidermal stem cells are located in the basal layer of the epidermis. The stem cells divide to form new cells, which also divide and are slowly pushed up to the top of the epidermis. They are then shed from the surface of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum has been shown to clearly restore the regenerative capacity of epidermal stem cells

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cultivated in an aging environment. To this end, a proaging medium was developed by Mibelle Biochemistry in collaboration with stem cell technology experts in order to mimic the tissue environment of elderly people. In these pro‐aging conditions, PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum was also shown to help the epidermal stem cells in building a thicker 3D epidermis with a higher content of hyaluronic acid. Clinical studies performed with twenty women demonstrated a significant increase of the skin renewal rate as well as an 11 % improvement in skin smoothness. PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum can thus boost and improve the skin renewal from the deepest layers of the epidermis during aging. Consequently, PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum prevents the age‐related thinning of the epidermis and ensures that the skin remains smooth. Here are the claim ideas with PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum:

Recharges youthfulness of skin stem cell Boosts cell turnover to rejuvenate the skin from the inside out Maintains the regenerative capacity, even as the years pass by Reveals a fresher and smoother skin

Often, rare and nearly‐extinct plants, classified as endangered species, contain especially valuable ingredients but may not be harvested for use in cosmetics. Thanks to the innovative PhytoCellTec™ technology, it is now possible to use even these components for cosmetics. Only a very small amount of plant material is needed to produce large quantities of high‐quality active ingredients, thus PhytoCellTec™ is a highly sustainable technology. Here are the active ingredients already available:

PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum contains 50 % of Symphytum stem cell extract and is phenoxyethanol‐free. The main applications for PhytoCellTec™ Symphytum are:

Rejuvenating formulas Age‐defense products for both face and body Skin care products to vitalize the most valuable skin cells – the stem cells

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CONCLUSION

The In‐Cosmetics 2013 exhibition held in Paris on 16th – 18th April, 2013, truly is the leading global business platform for personal care. With 12,500 m2 of stands sold and more than 600 exhibitors attended, the 2013 edition of In‐Cosmetics broke its previous records in terms of number of visitors. Inside the “In Cosmetics” exposition, it was possible to see there is a clear trend toward natural products. There were lots of novel cosmetic oils from the Amazon, fragrant essential oils from Nepal, and Kampo traditional herbal skin formulas from Japan – all prepared in forms that make them ideal for use in cosmetic, skin and hair care products. Even exotic mushrooms are being promoted for use in facial creams, to make skin young and supple. Where once laboratory chemistry appeared to reign supreme, nature is re‐establishing dominance – but with a strong scientific backup. Today's portfolios of herbal ingredients come with dossiers of scientific substantiation, charts showing their chemistry, and even samples as examples of how these ingredients can be formulated into finished products. The French company Naturex is one of the leading companies in this natural trend for active ingredients. An additional strong theme at “In Cosmetics” is the demand for sustainability. The big cosmetic companies not only want their ingredients increasingly natural, but they are demanding sourcing that follows strict guidelines of ethical trade and environmental preservation. Ingredient suppliers who haven't yet caught on to the demand for sustainable ingredients are standing in largely empty booths. At “In Cosmetics,” what is old is new again. Plants of all kinds yield compounds that firm skin, reduce wrinkles, make hair shine, diminish cellulite, and enhance beauty in hundreds of ways. For customers, that means cleaner, safer cosmetic and body care products, less toxic waste, and perhaps even a healthier environment in the long run. Last but not least, in March 2013, European Union regulators announced a ban on the import and sale of cosmetics containing ingredients tested on animals and to pledge more efforts to push other parts of the world, like China, to accept alternatives. Even before the new rule was officially announced, the cosmetics company L’Oréal, which is based in France, said it would respect the ban and “no longer sell in Europe any finished product with an ingredient that was tested on animals”. This has a major impact on ingredient suppliers, which was promoted in vivo testing through clinical trials to prove how good their active ingredients are. Accordingly, new testing methods and new skin analysis imaging techniques were displayed in the exhibition. The French company Quantificare and its new 3D LifeViz Micro were quite impressive.

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ABOUT VEILLE SALON

Officially launched in early 2010 by VIEDOC Consulting, a business & competitive & technological intelligence company, VeilleSalon.com is the first professional service for watching and reporting on trade show innovations for companies and is based on one of the largest global directory of trade shows, symposiums and other international events. This new professional service is designed both for visitors / companies, for exhibitors and trade show organizers. Through a bilingual directory, VEILLE SALON has already referenced more than 7,500 exhibitions and international events sorted and searchable according to business areas:

for industrial sector : Aerospace, Agriculture, Agribusiness, Automotive, Materials, Construction, Consumer goods, Cosmetics, Electronics, Defense, Energy, Optics, Pharmaceuticals, Telecommunications ...

for tertiary sector: Banking / Insurance, Hospitality, Real Estate, Media / advertising, Human Services, Tourism ...

for business area : Chemistry, Design / Architecture, Distribution, Packaging, Education / Training, Health & Environment, Computing, Innovation, Maintenance, Mechanical, Quality, Human Resources.

Besides the powerful features of multi‐criteria searches (dates, places, keywords, sectors, organizers, exhibitors ...), VeilleSalon.com also offers visitors a customized and interactive calendar of forthcoming exhibitions, a monthly newsletter, a forum and many other services. For potential exhibitors and event’s organizers, VeilleSalon.com is a real communication tool: registration of new events, presentation of your company and of latest news (product & process innovations, new services), free or charged conference proceedings, real time information for the visitor ... VeilleSalon.com is also a forum where visitors can meet directly with you to prepare at best their visit and where they can get information about your company. Why offer a professional service dedicated to trade show innovation watching? Watching trade show innovations is an ideal way to identify and analyze competitors, suppliers, new products, equipment, and services, to detect technology transfers and innovations, to achieve business development with potential new customers and to enhance market and trends knowledge. Therefore the team VEILLESALON, through experienced consultants and seasoned business intelligence engineers from VIEDOC Consulting, offers a range of services in: reporting on trade show innovations, in France and abroad, supporting individuals on‐site events, conducting on demand investigations and interviews, staff training... So whether you are a company wishing to maximize your trade show innovation watch, a future exhibitor or an event organizer, we have developed tailored solutions to meet your expectations. To access our website: http://www.veillesalon.com.

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PRESENTATION OF VIEDOC SARL

VIEDOC CONSULTING’s core business is information. VIEDOC is your company’s partner from strategy to operation. VIEDOC aims to assist its customers in the first stages of their activities (Business intelligence, knowledge management, competitive analysis, technological watch, market research, patent monitoring, benchmarking, technology transfers, state of the art ...) through information collect and analysis relevant to your business. Business Intelligence does not require mandatory life‐long skills within the company but impose to get the right information at the right time. VIEDOC has worked for customers both on extended and short periods of time to assist companies in decision making. VIEDOC advises companies from all industries (automotive, aerospace and defense, food, cosmetics, health, materials, optics, packaging, telecommunications ...). VIEDOC can assist companies that are ambitious and aware of the importance of investing at this level:

From the small innovative company looking forward to having strategic advice in tight milestones, up to major industrial groups anxious to keep their leadership position.

Methodology: We have a pragmatic approach built on a rigorous methodology showing the issues of collecting, processing, analyzing and dispatching of information with high added value information. Through its multi‐sector experience, VIEDOC provides its clients with services tailored to their needs by listening to their concerns and being available to meet their requirements and methods. To successfully help its customers at different stages of the life of their company (from creation to recovery), of their products (from design to sale) or of their projects (from the first study to the end of the project), VIEDOC operates both on process and on product innovation. VIEDOC deals both with technical and economical information. You can benefit from our experience, of specialists in collecting and analyzing value‐added information, from our methodologies and analytical capacity to provide qualified information and high quality validation. As experts in technology transfer identification, we have consistently grown our multisectoral vision by providing our professionalism and expertise to many clients, large industrial groups and SMEs, in a dozen of distinct sectors. This experience allows us today to make available to our customers, a meaningful analysis which does not neglect any technical, economical, legal and human implications and fully complies with ethical rules that guide all activities of our company.

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in-cosmetics intelligence report 2013

Technology

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