ice-tdb textile training course ( 15-20 march 2010, suzhou)

ICE-TDBTextile Training course

(15-20 march 2010, Suzhou)

Industrial policy for

Textile and Fashion Industry

Table of contents

1. General framework

2. Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘90s

3. Industrial policy for competitive framework and companies’ networks in the 2000s

4. Industrial policy for the next future

Milan - Italy tel. +39 0264119.1 - fax. +39 026610.3667-70

[email protected] - www.sistemamodaitalia.com

CONFINDUSTRIA MEMBER

General framework

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

WHO WE ARE

SMI – Sistema Moda Italia (Italian Textile and Fashion Federation) is one of the world’s

largest organizations representing the textile and fashion industry.

The Federation protects and promotes the interests of the sector and its members.

Sistema Moda Italia represents the entire supply chain on a national and international level and is the official interlocutor in relations with Italian and international institutions and organizations.

Sistema Moda Italia maintains relations with government agencies, public administration, and with economic, political, labor, and social organizations.

As the national federation for the category, it is composed, on a voluntary basis, of both companies and associations and is well established throughout Italy.

SMI is a member of Confindustria, the Confederation of the Italian industrial companies.

SMI is also the most important founding member of Euratex, the European Association of Textile and Clothing Manufacturers.

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

WHO WE ARE

Sistema Moda Italia closely follows the development and changes underway

in the textile and fashion industry and assists the Italian companies in the

sector through exclusive representation and a wide range of services and

activities.

The Federation therefore helps the industry solve problems regarding

production, technical and legal aspects, and economic and commercial issues.

Deeply committed to the development and growth of every area of the textile

and fashion industry, SMI also deals with market aspects, promotional

activities, and internationalization processes.

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

THE COMPANIES AND THE MARKET

Sistema Moda Italia, as national federation,

represents a sector, with 500,000 employees and

nearly 50,000 companies, that is a mainstay of Italy’s

economy and manufacturing industry.

The overall national turnover of approximately 50

billion euros represents more than 25% of the entire

European turnover and is a significant portion of the

active balance of trade in Italy.

SMI, with its 2,000 member companies, offers a

complete panorama of the Italian textile and fashion

industry.

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SMI members and the entire textile & fashion sector

TURNOVER 50%

EMPLOYEES20%

COMPANIES 3%

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

AREAS AND SERVICES

Sistema Moda Italia, which is committed to making the textile

and fashion sector one of the most important economic

resources of Italian industry, is divided into these Areas and

Services:

- Federation Business and Membership Development

- Industrial Policies, Economy and Enterprise

- Europe and International Trade Regulations

- Labor Relations and Training

- Research Center

- International Promotion

- Supply Chain Relations

- Legal Affairs

- Technology and Environment

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

FEDERATION BUSINESS AND MEMBERSHIP DEVELOPMENT

SMI coordinates and manages the relationship between the

Federation and other confederations to improve institutional

representation of the sector. It promotes activities to develop

membership and to better interpret company needs. It creates the

best conditions for promoting Federation activities and services

within the system. It systematically monitors company needs and

supplies services designed to support company growth in an ever-

evolving market.

INDUSTRIAL POLICIES, ECONOMY AND ENTERPRISE

To ensure the competitiveness of the textile and fashion industry,

SMI studies and promotes sector policies in Italy and the European

Community. It also promotes specific policies for the industry on local

and regional levels. It analyzes and monitors laws regarding taxes,

finance, and business. It also makes proposals to encourage product

and process innovation.

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

EUROPE AND INTERNATIONAL TRADE REGULATIONS

SMI protects the interests of the sector in the European Community and abroad by remaining in close, continuous contact with supranational government agencies, associations, and organizations.

It monitors and encourages fair trade and participates in EC projects designed to develop trade policies and improve the competitiveness of the industry.

LABOR RELATIONS AND EDUCATION

SMI represents the sector during negotiations and stipulation of the national labor contract. It protects the interests of the sector in all issues pertaining to industrial relations and labor laws.

Labor and Social Security

SMI provides members with up-to-the-minute information, consulting, and assistance in interpreting and applying the national labor contract and all the laws concerning labor, social security, and welfare. It also organizes seminars on separate issues that are particularly important to the sector.

Education

SMI provides members and training centers with data and updates on sector needs and on the offer available to companies on a national level. It furnishes updated information on special financing and facilitations available to companies.

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

RESEARCH CENTER

SMI closely monitors statistics and the most important macro and microeconomic variables to support the strategic vision of the Federation and its members, processing data and information to assist in the decision-making process. It supplies all official statistics to government agencies, the media, and trade fair organizations. It promotes entrepreneurship culture through publications and studies for various sectors in the textile-fashion system.

INTERNATIONAL PROMOTION

SMI’s goal is to support and strengthen the international reputation of its member companies abroad, through promotional activities that highlight the creativity, high quality and innovation which set apart Italy from the rest of the world. SMI develops and implements initiatives aimed specifically at our target markets in the European Community and around the world, developing and applying effective strategies and tools, including market research, exploratory missions, arranging for new buyers to visit Italy, actions to support industry promotion abroad, workshops and trade fair events.

The SMI Office in Shanghai – It coordinates the SMI branch in Shanghai, whose mission is to strengthen the Italian presence in China, by promoting dialogue and partnership between upstream and downstream sectors in the Italian and Chinese textile and fashion supply chain, thus creating business opportunities for textile companies.

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

SUPPLY CHAIN RELATIONS

SMI coordinates actions and events for the industry and for its areas and

product groups and promotes cooperation and exchange of information

and knowledge between member companies in every category

represented by the Federation, with the aim to increase their synergies.

LEGAL AFFAIRS

SMI provides legal assistance regarding intellectual property and

counterfeiting, contracts with sales agents and, in general, supports in

drafting of commercial agreements. It also provides information and

updates on the latest laws concerning these aspects.

TECHNOLOGY AND ENVIRONMENT

SMI studies the latest technological and regulatory developments to

anticipate new eco-compatible industrial processes and the development

of laws and procedures with a low environmental impact. It organizes

special seminars and conferences studying these new developments. It

also constantly monitors existing laws on the subject.

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

ORGANIZATION: SECTIONS

Sistema Moda Italia has grouped its members into 8 Sections, which represent all product categories in the system:

A. Spinning and preparatory processes

B. Weaving

C. Textile finishing

D. Home linen

E. Knitwear

F. Lingerie, underwear and hosiery

G. Clothing

H. Miscellaneous textiles and components

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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA

ORGANIZATION: GROUPS

The sections are, in turn, divided into 27 product Groups, which include businesses working in the same production sectors:

A. Cotton and wool spinning

B. Weaving (furnishing fabrics, apparel fabrics, knitted fabrics)

C. Knitted and woven fabrics dyeing, yarns dyeing, photo-engraving, printing

D. Contract/Hospitality

E. Knitwear for women and men

F. Lingerie, underwear and beachwear, men’s and women’s hosiery

G. Men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, work outfits, shirting, ties and scarves, bridalwear and formalwear

H. Buttons and components, material for medication, raw cotton, sewing threads

All the events and activities of the industry, sections, and groups aim at intensifying joint efforts and the dialogue between companies on issues of broad and/or specific interest for each product category.

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YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS GROUP

SMI’s Young Entrepreneurs Group was established as a meeting place for young entrepreneurs of the textile and fashion industry with common experiences.

Through constructive discussion and with the final objective of protecting and promoting sector activities, the Group intends to encourage the training of young entrepreneurs, their participation in the association, and their insertion in the system.

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YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS GROUP

It also aims to promote awareness of the ethical and social purpose of free enterprise and the importance of membership in the association.

Entrepreneurs between 18 and 40 years of age can have access to this group.

Italian Textile-Fashion IndustryDetailing the specifications:

Manufacturing sector >> export Complete pipeline Industrial districts SMEs - Small and medium

enterprises (480.000 empl. and 50.000 companies: 10 empl./comp.)

Italian T&F Industry: a complete pipeline

Fibres Industry

Spinning

Weaving

Finishing

Knitting Clothing

Textile Machinery Industry

Textile Chemical Industry

Retail

Final Consumer

Home-textile

Production: industrial districts

many SMEs located in many Industrial Districts spread around Italy

many parallel processes made on small scales

(NO: sequential processes made on large scales)

Complex Adaptive Systemcharacterised by Incremental Innovation,

Flexibility and Quick-Response

Within the Industrial Districts

external economies of scale:social sense of belonging, contextual knowledge,

specialisation and informal integration

fragmentation is recomposed

Fashion in the first period of modern era Very large diffusion in the population; big market

- but geographically segmented; Answering to a need of identification, more than

distinction; Absorbing an industrial “push”; Permitting large productions of standardized

items; With a product life cycle frequently longer than a

single season and geographically replicable (what was fashion in the USA one year could become fashion in Europe next year).

Fashion today: a “network” businesstechnical innovation and intense competition,

consumer’s need for variety and change

Very segmented diffusion; niche markets – but globally; Answering to a need of distinction and identification (i.e.

status symbol); Reacting to the consumers “pull”; Asking for customisation; very short life cycle of products, even if in some mixed way.

T&F Made in Italy: SWot analysisWeaknesses Strengths

Good image (Made in Italy)

Internationalization

History

Clusters (economy of scope)

Flexibility

Quick response

Size

Family business

Skills

Niche market

Specialization

Few global brands

Global competition

Production orientation

Finance

Banking System

Policy makers’ opinion

T&F Made in Italy: swOT analysis

Threats Opportunities

International Growing Market

Luxury Niche

Innovation & Technology

Supply-chain

Global Network

China/India

Energy Costs

Transport Costs

Consumer Budget

Retail Strategy

Italian T&F Industry: a dynamic tradition

Fast/flexible

Close/interlinked

Worth/meaningful

Fast Fashion: a successful model suitable for Italian T&F

Fast Fashion: the business model

Multiplier of average value

(from materials to final product)

Traditional Model Fast Fashion

Time to market 18/24 months Up to 2 weeks

~ 6/8 ~ 2/2,5

Source: The European House Ambrosetti – Cietta

Turnover average growth (2002-2006)

~ +0,6% ~ +17%

Italian Textile-Fashion Industry(2005-2009)

2005 2006 2007 2008 2009

Turnover 53.056 53.361 55.021 54.117 45.187 % change 0,6 3,1 -1,6 -16,5

Exports 26.572 27.559 28.070 27.775 22.137 % change 3,7 1,9 -1,1 -20,3Imports 15.568 17.465 17.912 17.774 15.826 % change 12,2 2,6 -0,8 -11,0Trade balance 11.004 10.094 10.158 10.001 6.310 % change -8,3 0,6 -1,5 -36,9

Employees (thousand) 524.930 516.674 512.956 508.200 482.282 % change -1,6 -0,7 -0,9 -5,1

Structural Indicator (%)Export/Turnover 50,1 51,6 51,0 51,3 49,0

Fonte: stime SMI-LIUC

Il Tessile-Moda: l’estero Periodo: Gennaio-Settembre 2009

TESSILE-MODA

EXPORT Valore

(mld. €) Var.% tend.

IMPORT

Valore (mld. €)

Var.% tend.

ABBIGLIAMENTO-MODA

TESSILE

11,074 -16,4

16,780 -20,0

5,706 -26,2

8,552 -4,0

12,066 -10,4

3,514 -23,0

Fonte: SMI su ISTAT

Il Tessile-Moda: commercio con l’estero

Periodo: Gennaio-Settembre 2009 (Var. % tendenziali)

ABBIGLIAMENTO-MODA

TESSILE

INTRA-UE EXTRA-UE

Export: -25,4%

Import: -24,5%

Export: -27,3%

Import: -21,8%

Export: -11,9%

Import: -9,2%

Export: -21,6%

Import: -0,9%

Fonte: SMI su ISTAT

Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009

Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2009

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-20

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-5

0

5

Tessile Vestiario Tessile-Moda

1° trim. 09 2° trim. 09 3° trim. 09*

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-5

0

5

Italia Estero Totale

1° trim. 09 2° trim. 09 3° trim. 09*

Fatturato

Analisi per mercato

(Var. % tendenziali)

Analisi per comparti


Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2009

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-5

0

5


1° trim. 09 2° trim. 09 3° trim. 09*

Produzione (Italia)

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-8

-6

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-2

0

2


1° trim. 09 2° trim. 09 3° trim. 09*

Occupazione (Italia)

(Var. % tendenziali) (Var. % tendenziali)

58,750,6 55,3

22,0

11,1

17,4

19,3

38,327,4


Stabile Migliora Peggiora


Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2008-2009

Sentiment degli operatori evoluzione congiuntura

Rilevazione 2009(Quote %)

Rilevazione 2008(Quote %)

36,845,6 41,9

11,84,9 7,8

51,3 49,5 50,3


Stabile Migliora Peggiora

Il modello giuridico dell’Unione Europea

Livello nazionale

azienda

Consiglio dei Ministri e Parlamento

Livello regionale

Parlamento nazionale

Parlamento regionale

Livello Unione Europea

Industrial policy forTextile and Clothing Industry





La politica industriale negli anni 90

1.La politica industriale per settori produttivi

2.La politica industriale per i distretti

La politica industriale per settori produttivi

1992 – 1996Il Piano Nazionale di Ricerca per il settore

Tessile ed Abbigliamento(93 milioni di euro al valore attuale)

Finanziamento delle attività di ricerca di vari consorzi sulla filatura, la tessitura, la tintoria, la stampa…

Il Piano Nazionale di Ricerca per il settore Tessile ed Abbigliamento

Criticità

Aggregazioni solo temporanee, senza consolidamento di rapporti tra aziende

Enfasi solo sulla parte tecnologica

Pochi rapporti con le Università e i centri di ricerca

Legge sui distretti (1996)

Finanziamenti per la costituzione di comitati di Distretto, con la partecipazione di aziende, sindacati e rappresentanti delle istituzioni

Fondi a disposizioni per creare strutture di servizio attive nei Distretti: centri servizi, centri per la diffusione tecnologica…

Legge sui distretti (1996)

Criticità

Nascita di strutture molto burocratizzate Doppioni con il ruolo di programmazione

dello sviluppo territoriale delle Pubbliche Amministrazioni locali

Difficoltà ad assumere decisioni operative Difficoltà ad introdurre innovazione (enfasi

sulla tradizione) e diversificazione verso settori nuovi e più promettenti


1. General framework2. Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘90s



La politica industriale per fattori e reti di imprese negli anni 2000

1.L’assetto normativo europeo

2.La politica industriale italiana: Industria 2015

L’assetto normativoeuropeo:evitare il nazionalismo,potenziare la concorrenza nelMercato Interno

Niente programmi di aiuti e/o incentivi a settori specifici

Niente programmi di aiuti e/o incentivi senza un preventivo controllo della Commissione UE

Industria 2015Progetti di innovazione industriale

per gruppi di imprese(Strumenti di incentivo a bando, con fase negoziale)

nuove tecnologie per il Made in Italy(180 milioni di euro nel 2008):

ModaArredamento /casaMeccanica/elettronicaAlimentare

Industria 2015: Le nuove tecnologie per la moda

Vantaggi:Risorse ingenti per progetti di ampio respiro (ogni progetto deve prevedere almeno 3/5 milioni di euro di costi)

Possibilità di negoziare e quindi di ampliare la collaborazione con il Ministero

Le nuove tecnologie per la moda: un esempio

Sistemi informatici di co-progettazione

Industria 2015

Strumento automatico di incentivo

credito di impostaper ricerca e sviluppo

anche per campionari e collezioniche rappresentano la gran parte della ricerca

delle PMI italiane del settore T&M

Industria 2015:credito di imposta per ricerca e sviluppo

Vantaggi:

CapillaritàNon discrezionalitàPrevedibilità

Assetto degli strumenti per la concessione di incentivi pubblici

Oggi 91 strumenti di

agevolazione nazionale

1261 strumenti di agevolazione regionale


Dal 1 gennaio 2011 1 unico fondo nazionale 1 sede stabile di concertazione tra

Ministero dello Sviluppo Economico e Regioni

2 tipologie di strumenti:


Per PMI e finanziamenti fino a € 1 milione: strumenti automaticiTEMPI: 30 giorni per accertamenti ed erogazione

Per progetti di importo maggiore:procedura negoziale (con appositi tipi di contratto) o valutativaTEMPI: 4 mesi di tempo per concessione degli incentivi

Le proposte di SMI per superare la crisi economica

(In) Vestire in Italia

Il Tessile-Moda come risorsa rinnovabile per il Paese

2

3

Stimoli selettivi ai consumi

RIGENERARE

LA MODA

Deducibilità fiscale per le spese di abbigliamento per l’infanzia, via scontrino parlante

1

4

5

Riqualificazione delle strutture turistiche vetuste o degradate

AIUTARE LA FAMIGLIA CHE

CRESCE

RIGENERARE L’ACCOGLIENZA

DEFISCALIZZARE LA TRASPARENZA

NEW PUBLIC PROCUREMENT

Agevolare fiscalmente i prodotti che attestano il rispetto alle norme eco-tossicologiche Europee

Il recupero dell’abbigliamento usato come facilitazione per l’acquisto di capi nuovi

La domanda pubblica come volano di sviluppo

Tessili e Abbigliamento Uomo/Donna

Tessili e Abbigliamento

Bambino

Tessili per Arredo e Biancheria per la

Casa

Eco-tossicologicamente

compatibili

Tessili Tecnici e Abbigliamento Professionale

Sostegni alla capacità produttiva

Come il TFR confluito nei Fondi Pensione di categoria possa favorire gli investimenti

LA MODA E’ DONNAValorizzazione e agevolazione dell’occupazione femminile

Riconoscere lo status energivoro di molte PMI e contenere le accise

Riduzioni dei premi INAIL e rivisitazione dei conteggi per la CIG

LE COLLEZIONI COME R&S

UNA PREVIDENZA PER LO SVILUPPO

Lo studio e la realizzazione dei campionari sono meritevoli di credito (d’imposta)

6

L’ENERGIA PER COMPETERE

MENO RISCHI, PIU’ FLESSIBILITA’, MENO

COSTI

7

8

9

10

Sul fronte finanziario

Sul fronte delle risorse

Sul fronte dell’innovazione

Industrial policy for the next future

1.EU '2020 strategy'

2.SMI considerationsSMI points

SMI vision for Italian T&F future

EU '2020 strategy'

in November 2009, the European Commission proposed a wide-ranging strategy (*) to lift the

EU out of recession and to lead Europe towards a

green, knowledge-based economy

by 2020

(*)= the successor to the current Lisbon Strategy

Europe needs a common agenda

the new Commission visionfor where the European Union should be in 2020

new sustainable social market economy, a smarter, greener economy where prosperity will result from innovation and from using resources better, and where knowledge will be the key

input

Time table24 November 2009: Commission launch of a

consultation for citizens, companies, Associations… on the internet (http://ec.europa.eu/eu2020/)

15 January 2010: Deadline for the consultation

23 March 2010: EU's Heads of State and Government summit to approve:the whole strategy andthe EUROPEAN INNOVATION ACT (5 years plan): innovation = political priority

Main challenges of the EU2020 strategy

globalisation

climate change

ageing population

the structural challenges identified as the basis for the EU 2020 strategy:

Main topics of the EU2020 strategy to confront these structural challenges EU

Commission proposes to have a common agenda whose main topics can be summarised as follows:

1. Exit strategy from the crisis

2. Four key priorities

3. EU member states firmly in control

1. Exit strategy from the crisisthe first key challenge will be to balance the "continued need for fiscal

support" for economic growth in the short term with "the need to restore sustainable public finances and macroeconomic stability" in the long run.

Member states will need to redirect public expenditure towards the thematic objectives of EU 2020 so that the necessary investments in Europe's future can be made.

2. Four key priorities

a) Innovation and knowledge

b) Fighting exclusion

c) Green growth

d) Digital, transportation, energy infrastructure for Europe

Innovation and knowledge

The "engine for sustainable growth" is knowledge and technology

EU needs to move to "a value economy"

In a fast-changing world, what makes the difference is innovation in both products and processes

Fighting exclusion

With unemployment set to hit double-digit figures in 2010, the Commission recommends:

"empowering people" in order to create new (kinds of) jobs

transition between jobs and training periods will require a major effort to prevent people falling out of the system

Green growth

With higher energy prices and greater competition for natural resources, European businesses need to adapt

More efficient use of resources, energy, and the application of new, greener technologies will stimulate growth, create new jobs and services and help

the EU meet its environmental and climate goals

Digital, transportation, energy infrastructure for EuropeDeveloping a "smart, upgraded transport and

energy infrastructures to improve competitiveness“

Besides those priorities

Single Market should be better exploited

liberalisation for the benefit of the consumers

Trade Policy should:promote the principles underlying the sustainable social market economy in the global context

ensure that barriers to international flows of trade and investment are reduced

promote open and rules-based global trade

3. EU member states firmly in control of the agenda European Council of heads of state should fix a small number of

headline objectives and define the corresponding policy action to be pursued at EU and member state level in partnership

For each objective, member states would set their individual

targets for five years corresponding to their national situations and their starting points

The Commission would monitor implementation every year, with

both a thematic and country review

Summarizing

Company= private initiative

European Union

Country

Region

INNOVATION

for profit in the long run, more than “quick

money”

STRUCTURAL CHALLENGES

globalisation

climate changes

ageing population

Expectations in Economic development

SOCIAL MEGATRENDS

RULES, STANDARDISATION (*),

TAX POLICIES & SUBSIDIES

(*) = OPEN & MARKET STANDARDS

SMI considerations

The above priorities could be broadly accepted.

However…

T&F characteristics

T&F is a creative and innovativecreative and innovative industry, characterised by a large number of very large number of very small to medium size companiessmall to medium size companies subject to the effects of the globalisationglobalisation of its markets while developing and marketing flexible flexible materialsmaterials and productsproducts for a myriad of myriad of applicationsapplications for everyday life

T&F environmental performance

The European textile and clothing pipeline has an environmental and carbon footprint which is probably amongst the lowest in the world and its products are essential components in many environmental functions

SMI points

1. definition of innovation2. support of T&F SMEs3. more effective demand-side measures4. more focused Regulation and more

active promotion policies for greener textiles and clothing products

Need for clearer and correct definition of the term “creative industry” or innovation

such concept also cover the “non-technological innovation” which is key to European textile

and clothing industries

such intangible value creation is a clear strength of the sector

A controversial pointMost governmental policies remain focused on science and technological innovation: the financial support to

innovative companies generally means support to technologically innovative

companies.But

non-technological innovation should also be strongly supported as they also

generate value and employment.

in addition…

non-technological innovation is generally less intensive in initial capital and

therefore less risky.

No always an innovative technology should necessarily underlie an

innovative service or business model

INNOVATION (Oslo Manual 2005, OECD)

the implementation of a new or significantly improved

product (good or service), or process, a new marketing

method, or a new organisational method in

business practices, workplace organisation or

external relations

A product innovation is the introduction of a good or service that is new or significantly improved with respect to its characteristics or intended uses...

A process innovation is the implementation of a new or significantly improved production or delivery method...

A marketing innovation is the implementation of a new marketing

method involving significant changes in product design or packaging, product placement, product promotion or pricing.

An organisational innovation is the implementation of a new organisational method...

Innovation for a “demanding” final consumerHow to deal with him/her?How to deal with him/her?

(some ideas)(some ideas)Some Features of the Some Features of the

“modern” Western “modern” Western ConsumerConsumer

Informed and prepared

Unfaithful

Impulsive

Without “real” needs to satisfy

He/she wants emotions, gratifications

Creativity

First class distribution

Quickness

Optimize quality/price ratio

Global network of partners

in sourcing, manufacturing

and distribution

Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs

Giving support to T&F SMEs

accessibility, flexibility and simplicity of schemes for public resources to stimulate research, creativity, innovation

access to credit for innovation carried out by creative SMEs should be easier, more available and affordable

simplification of legislation (i.e.: adoption of simplified rules on generic fibre names and in the rules on bioactive fibres)

more effective demand-side measuresa clearer link between research, innovation and

public procurement

public authorities should encourage more visibly the uptake of the innovative products in the day-to-day life of their administrations

more focused Regulations avoid new Regulations disconnected from the

life-cycle of the technologies

the return on investment is by far not always immediate with those new approaches

there is an underlying danger

new policies will be only “environmentally-friendly” driven irrespective of the costs that those will represent for the EU manufacturing industry

more active promotion policies for greener textiles and clothing products

consumers’ resistance in rewarding more environmentally-friendly products/processes

consumers is not adapting his/her wish for a “safer, greener consumption” with its behaviour as he/she is not prepared to pay adequately for “greener” but slightly costlier textile and clothing products.

active tax policies and subsidiesto stimulate more demand for greener textile products to

encourage European SMEs to invest in those new technologies or processes

Vision SMI per il futuro dell’industria Tessile-Moda italiana:

non una soluzione, ma alcune strategie

L’Italia deve fare politica industriale per i settori in cui siamo specializzati

il tessuto economico futuro sarà ancora

formato per gran parte dai settori che solo oggi prevalenti, ma con una

struttura organizzativa e produttiva “aggiornata”

Promozione dello sviluppo delle piccole e medie imprese (PMI) e delle micro imprese (<10 addetti)

Innovazione di prodotto e commerciale

Il punto di partenza: le nostre caratteristiche

Velocità

Vicinanza

Valore

Identità e tradizione dinamica

Qualità

Valori estetici

Valori etico-sociali

Valori eco-tossicologici

Trasparenza e sostenibilità

Integrazione e coesione di filiera

Economie di prossimità

Flessibilità

Efficienza

Focus sul consumatore

Sentieri di sviluppo

focalizzati non sulla crescita

quantitativa, ma sulla crescita di

valore

La globalizzazione comporta… Servire molti paesi, molto lontani geograficamente

e anche culturalmente Grande interdipendenza Riduzione della prevedibilità Aumento della capacità organizzativa e gestionale Aumento dei rischi (misurabili) e dell’incertezza

(non misurabile)

COMPLESSITA’

COMPLICATO

COMPLESSO

La globalizzazione richiede…

AGGREGAZIONE di PMI(equity / non equity)

Maggiori risorse interne e competenze evolute Maggiori capitali per affrontare maggiori

investimenti Maggiori capitali per coprire maggiori rischi e

maggiore incertezza Approcci multiculturali

(Hermès per il mercato cinese ha creato una nuova griffe: Shang Xia)

PMI globali… PMI in rete

INNOVAZIONERICERCA

INTERNAZIONALIZZAZIONE

La forza della rete

Identità individuale e controllo familiare

Dimensione economica e potere di mercato pari alla somma delle PMI

La Ricerca ieri: fornitori

Ieri: pochi, grandi fornitori, molto qualificati, che facevano internamente la ricerca e la diffondevano tramite la vendita dei loro prodotti (industria chimica e meccanotessile)

Oggi: tanto fornitori di commodities, senza attività di ricerca interna, poco innovativi, con scarsa capacità di differenziazione

La Ricerca oggi:Università e Centi di ricerca

la Piattaforma Tecnologica per il T&M Da commodity a prodotti speciali Nuove applicazioni tessili Mass costumisation & quick response

DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA:MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA, COMPETITIVITA’22nd IFATCC INTERNATIONAL CONGRESSItalia, Stresa, 5-7 Maggio, 2010

DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA:MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA, COMPETITIVITA’

LA CHIMICA TESSILE SOSTENIBILEMaterie prime di origine biologica e processi rispettosi dell'ambiente. Precursori e

polimeri per nuove fibre, ausiliari, coloranti, tessili biologici

INNOVARE LA FILIERA TESSILEIntroduzione di nuove tecnologie per accrescere il valore aggiunto. Filatura, preparazione, tintura e stampa, finissaggio, applicazioni specifiche di superficie,

bio e nanotecnologie, tecniche e strumenti di misura

QUALITA’, AMBIENTE E SICUREZZAStandard e tecnologie. Come accrescere la qualità dei prodotti e dei processi e

proteggere l'ambiente e la salute

http://www.stresa2010.org

DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA:MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA, COMPETITIVITA’

IL MONDO DEI TESSILI TECNICINuove opportunità offerte al settore dei tessili tradizionali e sviluppo di applicazioni

innovative in settori non convenzionali

IL MACCHINARIO TESSILEFattore trainante per realizzare processi efficienti, ecologici e di basso costo

LA MODAElemento di primaria importanza strategica: fashion e design, lo sforzo congiunto del

settore manifatturiero per la crescita del valore tecnicoed economico del tessile

http://www.stresa2010.org

Innovazione commerciale:Se la gerarchia dei bisogni è fatta così…

…allora dobbiamo posizionare il prodotto moda tra i beni “relazionali”anche in termini di NUOVO RAPPORTO CON IL CONSUMATORE: e-commerce e on-line marketing

ASPETTATIVE DI BUSINESS NEI MERCATI MATURI È improbabile che la

ripresa sia sostenuta I consumi sono previsti

in calo o stagnanti La competizione è sempre più forte, spinta

anche dall’apprezzamento dell’euro

La ripresa può essere agganciata tramite il commercio estero Sviluppare la strategia di apertura

reciproca dei mercati Combattere le barriere non-tariffarie Concentrare gli sforzi in quei

Paesi o aree con i mercatipiù grandi o promettentiper le nostre industrie

Gestire complessità e rischi

Razionalizzare sovra-capacità produttiva

Capire trend di mercato

Know–how per aggregazioni (equity/no-equity) e potenziamento

networking

Analisi di supporto alle decisioni di medio-lungo termine

Servizi evoluti ad alto valore aggiunto

Promozione/esplorazione mkt

Apertura mkt (norme)

Ricerca applicata e sviluppo

Brevetti; collaborazione con Università e Centri di ricerca

Marchi/brand Creatività

Linee d’azione a livello macro

Nuovi prodotti (tradizionali ma con componenti innovative)

Nuovi sbocchi (tessili non convenzionali, biomedicali, per diagnostica)

Nuovi mercati (BRIC; STIM; Paesi Arabi)

PRIORITA’

SFIDE

Globalizzazione

Criticità ambientali

UE/società stazionarie (invecchiamento popolazione, senza crescita)

Definire politiche industriali

Sentieri di sviluppoStrategie del Sistema

Associativo Tessile-Moda

Thank you!Thank you!

Mauro ChezziMauro Chezzi

Deputy directorDeputy director

Sistema Moda ItaliaSistema Moda Italia

www.sistemamodaitalia.com

ice-tdb textile training course ( 15-20 march 2010, suzhou)

Documents