METAL VOCABULARYWire = Metal drawn out into the form of a thin flexible thread or rod.

We use the wire to create things such as jump rings, links for chains, ear-cuff’s, post earrings, ear findings, writing your name out in cursive, and wire-wrapped rings.

It comes in many different gauges: 12g, 14g, 16g, 18g, 20g, 22g, and 24g to name a few.

o The smaller the number, the larger the gauge or the larger the number, the smaller the gauge.

o Usually the gauge is written on the top of the plastic form that the wire is wrapped around

o We usually use 18g for most of the assignments, because it is thick enough when formed to hold its shape, but thin enough so that it is malleable and easily used without hurting your hands.

o 16 g is the next size that we usually use, it is thicker than 18g and used for things such as clasps, jump rings, and bolder chains. 16g is stronger and will not lose its shape when used repeatedly. This is why clasps are usually made with 16gauge wire, because it is the part of the jewelry piece that is handled more often.

There are four types of wire metal that we use: Copper, Nu-Gold, Brass, and Nickel Silver

o Copper is an orange color / almost looks like Rose Gold, but not as reddisho Nu-Gold is gold colored, but it more yellowish. Nu-Gold looks more like what

real 14 K Gold looks like.o Brass is gold colored, but it more greenisho Nickel Silver is silver coloredo The name of the metal is usually written on the top of the plastic form that the

wire is wrapped around.

Sheet Metal = Metal formed into thin sheets, typically by rolling or hammering.

We use sheet metal to create things such as a pendent It comes in many different gauges: 14g, 16g, 18g, 20g, 22g, and

24g to name a few We usually use 20g sheet metal for most of the assignments. There are four types of sheet metal that we use: Copper, Nu-

Gold, Brass, and Nickel Silver

Gauge = a standard measure of dimensions used to describe the diameter or thickness of metal or wire

Malleable = a term used to describe metal that is bendable, able to be easily manipulated, or formed

Types of Metal = Copper, Nu-Gold, Brass, and Nickel Silver

Copper = a chemical element with the symbol Cu (from Latin: cuprum) and atomic number 29. Copper is a pure element therefore it isn’t made up of anything, but itself. It is a ductile metal with very high thermal and electrical conductivity. Pure copper is soft and malleable; a freshly exposed surface has a reddish-orange color.

Brass = A yellowish-greenish alloy of copper and zinc, sometimes including small amounts of other metals, but usually it is made up of 67 % copper and 33 % zinc.

Brass Sheet Metal

Nickel Silver = an alloy made primarily of copper and including zinc, and nickel. It contains no silver. This alloy is often referred to as "German Silver."

Nickel Silver Sheet Metal Nickel Silver Wire

Nu-Gold = A copper-based, nickel-free alloy that mimics the look of gold. Often referred to as Merlin's Gold, it is made up of 85% copper and 15% zinc

Nu-Gold Sheet Metal

Nu-Gold Wire

TOOL VOCABULARY Table Vise = A two-jawed clamp used to hold tools or work in place. Hand-held vices typically hold smaller tools and Bench-vices are usually used to hold stakes for forming.

Bench or Steel Block = a small block of steel with a polished surface and crisp edges will provide invaluable for riveting, center-punching and similar light hammering.

Bench Pin = A "v" shaped wood block that is used in jewelry making to help support a piece while sawing or filing. It is usually held on to your table by a C-Clamp, but it can also be attached using a bench pin clamp like you see in the picture to the left.

C-Clamp = A clamp in the shape of the letter “C”. It is used to hold down the bench pin on the table.

Centerpunch = A tool with a point for making an indentation in an object to allow a drill to make a hole at the same spot without slipping. Some students use this improperly and create a hole instead of a dent in the metal. Unfortunately that hole created by the centerpunch has uneven edges. It is better to create holes using a drill with a drill bit, than with a centerpunch. This is the tool that no one gives back like they are supposed to.

Jeweler’s Saw Frame = A “U-

shaped” steel frame with a handle and clamps that hold a jeweler’s saw-blade in place so that one can saw.

Metal Shears = A larger scissor-like hand tool with jaws that are straight and smooth. It is used to cut sheet metal from size 24g to 18g. Any sheet metal larger than 18g cannot be cut with this, it is too thick. (Also called snips)

Safety Glasses/Goggles = required for use in the metals lab to protect your eyes. Especially when using the buffing machines.

Metal Hole Punch = Used to pierce metal in order to insert the saw blade into it. I keep this locked up in my desk

Cordless Hand Drill = A drill is a tool fitted with a driving tool attachment, usually a drill bit, used for boring holes in various materials.

Ruler = a straight strip or cylinder of plastic, wood, metal, or other rigid material, typically marked at regular intervals, to draw straight lines or measure distances.

Flush Side Cutter = A tool that has sharpened blades on their interior surfaces with jaws that end in a point that allows you to cut the wire from any side or angle. One side is flat, the other side is concave.

Round Nose Pliers = Smooth, round jaws used for making loops and round bends in wire.

Chain Nose Pliers = Pointed flat nose pliers, used for gripping and tucking in wire ends, and getting into tight places. We use this tool more than any other tool in jewelry

Wire Cutter = A larger heavy duty tool for cutting wire that is 16g or larger. This tool is at least 3 times the size of your flush cutters that you have in your supply box.

File = A tool usually of hardened steel with cutting ridges for forming, shaping, or smoothing metal surfaces. When asked what it is used for…DO NOT ANSWER WITH “IT IS USED TO FILE” etc. in the test/exam; you will receive a zero on it.

Needle Files = Small files made primarily for smaller, delicate pieces of work. Usually made of hardened steel with cutting ridges for forming, shaping, or smoothing metal surfaces

Mallet = A leather, rubber, or plastic "hammer" used to form, shape, bend, etc. metal with very little if any marking or denting of the surface.

Rawhide Mallet = an organic tool that is used to shape metal without marking the outside of the piece of jewelry.

Mandrel = A metal or wooden cylinder that secures a ring or other round jewelry that aids in various tasks such as bending, forming, buffing, polishing, and carving.

Ring Mandrel = a rod of steel used to measure the size of an already existing ring. You can use it to hammer wire around it in order to form the wire to a certain size diameter

Ball Peen Hammer = a hammer with a flat end and rounded end.

MATERIAL VOCABULARY Sandpaper = paper with sand or another abrasive stuck to it, used for smoothing or polishing woodwork or other surfaces.

Beeswax = Used as a lubricant on a saw blade in order to keep the blade moving easily across the metal. Use sparingly, it sometimes gunks up the metal shavings and clogs the blade.

Saw-Blades = Used in conjunction with a Jeweler’s Saw frame. Saw blades come in many different thicknesses and your blade selection will depend on the material being sawn and nature of the work being done. For very fine delicate work, and for cutting very thin material use a finer blade, and for general purpose cutting a heavier blade. Saw blades have a range of sizes, from finest to coarsest: 8/0, 7/0, 6/0, 5/0, 4/0, 3/0, 2/0, 1/0, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6.

( Close up of the teeth on a saw blade)

(Package of saw-blades)

Rubber Cement = Used for adhering your design to the metal

Drill Bit = Drill bits are cutting tools used to remove material to create holes, almost always of circular cross-section. Drill bits come in many sizes and shape and can create different kinds of holes in many different materials. In order to create holes drill bits are attached to a drill, which powers them to cut through the workpiece, typically by rotation. The drill will grasp the upper end of a bit called the shank in the chuck.

Jump Ring = A ring that allows a pendant or jewelry piece to hang properly from a key chain/necklace

Buffing Compound = A compound that has an abrasive that will remove metal for the topmost layer to eliminate fine scratches from metal

Tripoli Compound #1 (left to right) on the buffing wheel – course grit – brown in color

White Diamond Compound - #2 (Left to right) on the buffing wheel – medium grit – white with black specks in color

Rouge Compound= a red colored polishing compound that produces a brilliant shine after buffing. This is used on the last buffing wheel (#3). Grit - light

Buffing Wheel / Buffer = a machine that holds and spins buffing pads used to polish/buff metal

Buffing Wheel / Pads = Used in conjunction with a buffing wheel and buffing compound in order to polish metal. Most buffs come in size from 2 to 6 in. diameter, and also in a variety of special shapes such as those used to polish the inside of rings, cups and bowls, crevices, etc.

TECHNIQUESPIERCINGPiercing = The use of a saw frame and blade to create shapes from within a piece of sheet metal as opposed to coming in from the edge.

Piercing = The use of a saw frame and blade to create shapes from within a piece of sheet metal as opposed to coming in from the edge.

Though it is a deceptively simple technique, piercing is not only an extremely versatile process, but a preliminary step in many other procedures. When done correctly, sawing is a relaxed and rhythmic experience

The piece being sawn should be horizontal and securely held. A wooden bench pin is the typical arrangement.

The blade must be tightly strung in the saw frame. (See Blade Insertion) The teeth of the blade must point out away from the saw frame and down toward the handle. To

determine the direction of the teeth, look closely or stroke the blade against fabric. The blade will snag the cloth in only one direction.

The blade should always travel at a right angle to the workpiece. The hand holding the saw frame should be relaxed. Do not clench or jerk the frame. The correct size blade has three teeth on the metal at a time.

Blade Insertion

Lubrication Piercing

Method #1 Clamp one end of the blade in place and tighten the screw (A) finger-tight. Adjust the length of the frame so the tip of the blade just overlaps the other gripping plate then tighten (B) the frame screw well. Lean the frame against a table, blade uppermost, and press hard enough to “spring” the frame. Slide the loose end of the blade into place and tighten the last screw (C). The frame springs back, putting tension on the blade.

This is not always necessary, but it sometimes speeds sawing especially on “gummy” metals such as copper. Beeswax can be used for this.

This is the term given to sawing when working within a piece. Begin by drilling a hole in each compartment to be sawn. Only a tiny hole will be needed. With the blade secured into the frame at one end, thread the other end through the hole and connect to the frame as usual. After completing the cut, it is often helpful to refine the shape by ‘filing’ with the blade, rubbing it along the sawn edge. To remove, loosen either end of the blade and withdraw it.

SANDINGSandpaper is a special type of paper made from an abrasive material. In fact, sandpaper is often said to be a coated abrasive. Sandpaper is usually used for home improvement to make a surface smoother and remove tiny quantities of material from the surface. Sandpaper is used in different types of work. It is generally made of garnet, emery, aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, zirconium oxide and chromium oxide. It is available in many different forms (sheet, disc, belt, and sponge) and sizes.

Distinguishing Coarse and Fine Grits

Sandpaper is numbered with grits, and according to this scale, the lower numbers mean that the grit is coarse and the higher numbers mean that the grit is smaller and more refined. For this reason, you are recommended to start working with coarse sandpaper and then continue with finer sandpaper as you move on with the sanding job.

The average grit scale of sandpaper varies from 220 to 600, thus 220 is the coarsest type and 600 would be the finest. There are four numbers that we use: 220, 320, 400, and 600.

COURSE GRIT

MEDIUM GRIT

FINE GRIT

Sanding Sheet Metal

Be careful when you use sandpaper on sheet metal. Sandpaper can be used on several types of sheet metal i.e. copper, brass, silver nickel, and nu-gold. Start sanding the metal with 220-grit sandpaper because if you use a lower grit, you risk damaging the metal with deep scratches. You use sandpaper to remove scratches and dings from the material.

NOTE: It is very important that you sand in one direction and maintain that direction all the time

Using 320-grit sandpaper

When you see that you have no more scratches left on the sheet metal, put away the 200-grit sandpaper. Get up, go to the sink, and wash your sheet metal properly with soap and water. Gently dry it off with paper towel and go back to your seat. Get out your 320-grit sandpaper -this will be one step finer than the

SANDING CONTINUED…

200 grit sandpaper. Use this new sandpaper by sanding in a perpendicular motion to the previous direction. This means sand in the opposite direction that you already sanded in with the 200 grit sandpaper. Inspect the material and check that the 220-grit sandpaper left no marks.

Using 400-grit Sandpaper

Once you finish sanding with the 320-grit sandpaper, make sure you wash it thoroughly and then replace it with 400-grit sandpaper. Start sanding in a perpendicular direction to the previous one so that you are now sanding in the same direction of the 220-grit sandpaper.

Finishing With 600-grit Sandpaper

Repeat the same procedures with the 600-grit sandpaper.

Now your material is sanded and it is ready to be polished. Always remember to avoid inhaling the particulates removed by the sandpaper or wear a facial mask. You will also reduce the presence of particulates in the air if you decide to use sandpaper with water.

Sandpaper is not used only to clean sheet metal prior to fabrication. It is also used as a finishing tool for art jewelry. Sandpaper is usually used to give jewelry a shiny polished look; like that of a mirror, or a rough look; as if the jewelry is scratched.

POLISHING

MISCELLANEOUS Findings = originally the bits and pieces taken from recycled objects by silversmiths (who later “found” a use for them). Today the term includes all manner of attachments that contribute to the function of a jewelry piece, such as ear-wires, clasps, and so on. OR…Commercial or handmade fittings or fastenings used to attach jewelry to the wearer: clasps, ear wires, earring posts, pin assemblies, etc.

Clasp = A fastening device, such as a catch or hook, used to hold two or more objects or parts together, as with chains.

Chain = a connected flexible series of metal links used for fastening or securing objects and pulling or supporting loads.