I

I’ve lost count of the number of planes that I’ve brought back from the brink, but if I added

up the tools that I’ve bought, plus the orphans that have been le� in boxes outside my door, the number would hit quadruple digits. Surpris-ingly, I’m still eager to resuscitate the next plane that lands on my bench. Some might consider me an old-tool addict, but what’s wrong with the rush that comes from bringing new life to an old tool, or helping a fellow woodworker put a cherished hand-me-down back into service? Emotions aside, hand planes are more than just historical artifacts. With a little know-how and a healthy helping of elbow

grease, most can be turned into practical tools for any modern-day wood shop.

I don’t endorse the “they don’t make ‘em like they used

to,” mantra, but I know that savvy shoppers can buy a good vintage plane for a fraction of the cost of a brand-new tool. In many instances, an old plane can

Use this simple 4-step strategy to turn an old plane into a super shaver.

By Craig Bentzley

Photos except where noted: John Hamel; illustration: Christopher Mills

old-tool addict, but what’s wrong with the rush that comes from bringing new life to an old tool, or helping a fellow woodworker put a cherished hand-me-down back into service? Emotions aside, hand planes are more than just historical artifacts. With a little know-how and a healthy helping of elbow

grease, most can be turned into practical tools for any modern-day wood shop.

don’t make ‘em like they used to,” mantra, but I know that

savvy shoppers can buy a good vintage plane for a fraction of the cost of a brand-new tool. In many instances, an old plane can

Photos except where noted: John Hamel; illustration: Christopher Mills

Hand PlanePROBLEM SOLVER

First aid for a No. 4 (and more).With about an hour’s worth of TLC, you can transform a fl ea-market fi nd into a top-notch tool.

28

Ibe put back to work with about the same amount of e� ort as prepping a new tool.

As you’ll see, my approach to restoration focuses more on function than form. I don’t obsess over showroom shine, or advocate taking extreme measures. My four-step approach is a practical “middle ground” tune-up strategy. I � nd that I can get a salvageable plane up to shaving speed in less than an hour. From this point, I’ll decide if I want to put it to work, or put it out to pasture. I’ve bought a few boat anchors in my day. To improve your odds, check out “Buyer Beware” on page 33.

Step 1: Start with a careful cleaningTo make your initial diagnosis, disassemble the tool and give the parts a thorough cleaning. � is step enables the moving parts to function smoothly, and provides you with an opportunity to inspect for cracks, chips, or missing parts. (To familiarize yourself with the nomenclature and ensure that your plane has all its parts, refer to the � gure, right.)

To start, remove the lever cap, chipbreaker, and blade, and then remove the tote and knob. Next, remove the frog from the body.

� ere are a variety of commercially available rust-removing solutions, but light rust can be knocked o� with mineral spirits and a Scotch-brite® pad or Sand� ex blocks. To remove pitch and assorted crud, I use Simple Green® and an old toothbrush. I � nd a grinder-mounted wire wheel is particularly helpful. To knock o� rust without digging into the steel or scouring o� the paint, I out� tted my grinder with a � ne-wire “carding” wheel that’s used by gunsmiths (see Buyer’s Guide on page 62). A� er rinsing and drying the metal parts, use compressed air to blow out any grit from the threaded holes (this debris can ruin the screw threads) and reassemble the tool. Apply a light machine oil to the threads and moving parts, and paste wax to the freshly cleaned surfaces to prevent rust and restore the luster.

At this point, I’m eager to make a few test shavings, so I skip Step 2, and switch in an iron from another tool. If the plane produces silky shavings, you’re on the right track.

Two wheels, no waiting.I outfi tted my grinder with a gunsmith’s carding wheel to remove rust, and a buffi ng wheel (charged with HUT Dark turner’s fi nish) to revive the shine on wooden parts.

Lateral adjustment lever

Hand Plane Anatomy

Blade (iron)

Chipbreaker

Knob

Frog

Mouth (Throat)

Sole

Throat-adjustment screw

Tote

Lever cap

Lever cap screw

Depth adjustment wheel

Frog screw

Chipbreaker screw

Break it down. Dismantle the plane to inspect it for missing parts or other fatal fl aws. WD-40® and Simple Green, plus some elbow grease, will effectively remove light rust and miscellaneous crud.

Clean & Diagnose

Body

29

Take out the trash. Years of neglect or decades of hard use have the same end result: Treat yourself to a new blade.

Bring it back. With a little elbow grease, a diamond stone or sandpaper can erase mill marks and rust, and make an old iron perform as if it was brand new.

A fresh start. An aftermarket blade and breaker is the easiest fi x, but this upgrade can double the cost of a rehab project, and requires some set-up.

Deeply pitted back

Machine marksLight rust

Short blade=Soft steel

An ugly blade is not a deal breaker.Use these examples to gauge if your iron can be returned to service, or switched out.

Plane blade photos: Ralph Lee Anderson

Use a honing guide and abrasives to do the heavy work.Adhered to a granite plate, coarse-grit sandpaper establishes a bevel almost as quickly as a grinding wheel, but without any risk of overheating the edge.

Start sharpening. Without adjusting the guide, switch to your stones and hone the bevel. If you want to add a microbevel, the Veritas MK II makes it easy.

Start with the back. A sharp blade requires a back that’s as well cared for as the bevel. Use a coarse diamond stone to erase mill marks, and then switch to your sharpening stones.

Bring back the blade

Needs work

30

Step 2: Sharpen (or switch out) the ironOlder plane irons can take and hold a keen edge, but some aren’t worth saving. If the back has deep rust pockets, you may not be able to undo the damage. Even with a freshly honed bevel, the pockets will create divots on the edge that will produce track marks on your freshly-planed surface.

A short iron suggests that a plane has seen a lot of use. Unfortunately, repeated sharpenings may have removed the hardest steel (the hardening process reaches in about an inch from the edge). If there’s less than 2 inches of blade from the long slot, the steel may not be hard enough to hold an edge.

Several companies o� er replacement blades (see the Buyer’s Guide on p. 62).Many of these substitutes are thicker than the original irons; a few require you to open up the mouth with a � le. Although some woodworkers � nd that thicker irons resist chatter, I don’t think the di� erence justi� es the extra work. I’m also reluctant to make modi� cations that might a� ect the tool’s value. When a plane isn’t performing up to par, 99% of the time it’s because the blade is overdue for a honing.

Step 3: Check the chipbreakerA properly tuned chipbreaker forces shavings up and out of the plane.

� e constant breaking/curling action also helps prevent tearout. In order to accomplish this, the leading edge must be in full contact with the back of the iron, or it will snag shavings and choke. Inspect the chipbreaker’s � t as shown above. If you see light between the leading edge of the breaker and the blade, correct these problems by sanding, and then take time to smooth the breaker’s top face.

To straighten a twisted breaker, secure it in a vise and apply force in the opposite direction. As a � nal step, smooth the top of the breaker to encourage shavings to pass out of the throat.

Close the gap. A properly set chipbreaker forces shavings backwards, causing them to break before they tear away from the surface. To work properly, the breaker’s leading edge must be in full contact with the blade. Otherwise, shavings will jam into the gap and choke your plane.

Dress the edge. Using a side-to-side motion, clean up the breaker’s inside edge as shown. To maintain a consistent angle, hook your fi ngers over the edge of your bench.

Round the top. Dressing the breaker’s top face encourages shavings to pass through without a pause. Sand away any bumps or nicks, then use a buffi ng wheel to polish it up.

Shavings will get caught in gap, causing plane to choke.

Check the chipbreaker

Aug/Sept 2018 | woodcraftmagazine.com 31

STEP 4: Flatten the soleFor a plane to work e� ectively, its sole needs to be � at. Fortunately, this step isn’t as tedious as you might think. � e trick is to focus on what matters. First, the sole doesn’t need to be a mirror. A few scratches or hollows won’t a� ect the tool’s performance.

I start � attening with 100-grit sandpaper, and � nish with 180. For a special plane, I might work up to 320. Silicon carbide sandpaper is suited for metal, but I � nd that premium aluminum oxide lasts longer and cuts more consistently.

A reliably � at reference surface is important. For longer planes, you can use a piece of � oat glass, or the cast-iron top of your table saw or jointer. For shorter planes, I prefer a granite surface plate.

Because the cast iron plane body is slightly � exible, it’s important to lap the sole when the plane is fully assembled and “tensioned” as it would be when in use. Mark the sole, then start scrubbing, as shown. When the key areas are clean, run a � ne mill � le along the outside edges and the mouth opening to remove any burrs or sharp edges that might gouge your work or cut your � ngers.

Finally, wipe away or blow o� any abrasive and metal particles, rub a little wax on the sole, and give it a test run. �

Start shaving. Secure a test board to your bench. While running the plane across the wood, rotate the depth adjustment knob and make lateral adjustments until the blade contacts the wood evenly. If your plane produces a feathery, full-width shaving, it’s ready to be put to work.

Start lapping. After assembling the plane, retract the blade, and use light pressure until you achieve an even scratch pattern on the sole.

Key points of contact. Focus on the indicated areas. Use marker lines to gauge your progress

Smooth edges. Use a mill fi le to remove burrs and soften sharp edges.

These areas can be mostly fl at. Minor hollows will not affect plane performance.

Fine-cut mill fi le

Apply even pressure on the knob and tote while rubbing the sole across the sandpaper

This area should be fl at and free of nicks and burrs.

Flatten the sole

Take a test run

performance.

32

Steer clear of cracks

Buyer Beware: What you can’t fi x

A plane by any other name...

If the plane is missing a few parts, you might have a problem. In most cases, parts for Stanley planes are interchangeable. Non-Stanley planes can be different story. Although these planes look similar (a few were made by Stanley), there’s a chance that a screw might have a unique thread, or a that frog might not seat properly. Even if you can fi nd replacement parts, you might still be stuck with a poor performer. My advice? If you’re looking for a good user, I’d stick with Stanley. Sargent, and Miller’s Falls. These three companies made high-quality tools. Replacement parts for these planes are available online.

This plane seems promising, until you check the fl ip side. This welded crack suggests that it may be at the end of its useful life. A resourceful woodworker repaired the damage after a hard fall, but it’s impossible to tell if the sole is still fl at, or if the weld will hold when the plane is put to work. Keep looking.

Pick a plane with real potential

Oldies aren’t always goodies. Tools have always been made to different price points. At fi rst glance, the wood and shape of the tote suggests that one plane is better than the other. Removing the lever cap and blade reveals other major differences that can’t be cured with a tune-up.

Stanley = Safe bet

Comfortable rosewood tote intended for long use.

Finger-friendly brass adjustment wheel permits easy blade depth adjustment.

Flimsy frog can cause poor plane performance.

Lack of frog adjustment. Wide mouth more likely to cause tearout.

Tough-to-turn stamped adjustment wheel.

Uncomfortable, crudely-shaped stained tote.

Sturdy cast-iron lever cap is better able to direct pressure to blade.

Stamped-metal lever cap will fl ex under pressure, lessening plane performance.

Older irons from a good plane can hold their own against modern-day upgrades.

Cast-iron frog sits solidly against the body and adjusts to tighten the mouth for fi ne shavings.

Look-alikes may not match the performance of the real McCoy, and replacement parts might be hard to fi nd.

Stanley = Safe bet

Cracked casting photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert

Steer clear of cracks

tools. Replacement parts for these planes are available online.tools. Replacement parts for these planes are available online.

This plane seems promising, until you This welded crack

suggests that it may be at the end of its useful life. A resourceful woodworker repaired the damage after a hard fall, but it’s impossible to tell if the sole is still fl at, or if the weld will hold when the plane is put to work. Keep looking.

Pick a plane with real potential

...this is a deal-breaker.

Seems okay, from this side. but...

Aug/Sept 2018 | woodcraftmagazine.com 33

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