How to Sew

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How to Sew Using Patterns After learning to sew, it's a natural step to learning to sew with

a pattern. Being able to sew using a pattern will provide you

with many options for creating garments, costumes, soft

furnishings, toys, and other items that can be sewn. This

article explains how to sew using patterns.

Choosing Your Size

1 Select the right size for the person who will wear the

garment. If it's for you, have a friend measure you first.Do

keep in mind that the units you choose for measurement

should not change as it may cause confusion while stitching.

Remember, it will not necessarily be the same size as the

ready-to-wear clothing you already own, as pattern sizing can

vary considerably from what you're used to wearing. Look on

the back of the pattern envelope and determine your size by

the "finished" measurements it provides.

Most pattern companies follow an international code for

sizes.[1]

2 Watch out for multi-sized patterns. Some patterns are

multi-sized. This means that they will be suitable for a wide

range of sizes, although they'll usually still provide an

indication of the size range. You'll need to look on the pattern

itself for the markings of where to cut for each size.

3 Leave space for alterations. All patterns contain an

allowance for fit, known as "fit or wearing ease", or "designer

ease", assuming they are designed for fabrics that require this

allowance.[2] The allowance is not included for garments

designed for knit fabrics, since these fabrics have natural

stretch. Read the instructions on your pattern to find the

allowance or look on the pattern itself for "finished"

measurements, or something similar.

Compare the difference between the finished measurements

and your body measurements in order to find the allowance.

If you don't want the allowance that is included, or if you want

to make it smaller or larger, you'll need to look out for this.

This allowance will determine what the final size is for the

garment, and indicates whether the garment will fit loosely or

closely. Some companies have a standard allowance that

corresponds to the descriptions (loose-fitting, fitted, etc.).[3]

For beginners it is probably better to ignore all of this, as you

may not be ready to alter patterns. If you're unsure, leave in

the allowance and take the final garment to a tailor.

Reading the Pattern

1 Read the directions. Every pattern comes with step-by-step

instructions on a separate sheet (user guide), as well as the

pattern template sheet (pattern tissue). You should always

read the instructions in the user guide before starting the

sewing project so that you're aware of what's expected.

The advice will include how to cut out the template sheet

(pattern tissue), how to construct the garment or item, the

best way to select sizing, etc.

2

Check for seam allowances. Check the pattern instructions

to find out if the pattern is with or without seam allowances. If

it does not include seam allowances, you'll need to cut the

fabric with the seam allowances later. It is more normal for

seam allowances not to be included.

3 Notice the grain lines. This is a long straight line with arrow

heads at one or both ends. This arrow tells you which

direction the paper pattern pieces should sit over the grain of

the weave (which direction the grain of the fabric needs to

go). For stretch fabrics, they might indicate the direction with

most stretch.

The grain line of the fabric is the same as the direction of the

selvage edges (the white edge where the pattern ends).

Simply locate the selvage edge to determine the grain line or

direction of the fabric.

4 Look for the notches. These are the triangular marks on the

cutting lines. Use them for matching panels precisely, such as

an arm in an armhole. You can get single, double, and triple

notches. Pros will make tiny cuts into the seam allowance

where these notches are but beginners should cut mirrored

triangles beyond the cut line, in order to line up the pattern

pieces.

Usually a single notch indicates the front of a garment while a

double notch indicates the back. This is not universal,

however.[4]

5 Find the dots. These little circles can show where darts, zips,

pockets, or gathering are to be added, though they usually

indicate where you need to place tacks in order to line up two

layers of fabric. Refer to your pattern instructions if you are

unsure.

If the pattern does not explain and you see two matching dots

on opposite pieces of the pattern, then it is reasonable to

assume that these two match up.

Zipper lines are almost always indicated with a zig-zag line

6 Look for button markings. Button placement is usually show

with an X, while button holes are marked with a bracket line

(like the number lines you drew in your math classes),

marking the actual size of the button hole.

7 Look for lengthening and shortening lines. These are

parallel lines, usually placed very close together, that show

where you can increase or reduce the size of the pattern to

improve fit. Always read your pattern instructions to

understand how to deal with these, as it usually varies

between patterns.

8 Use the cutting lines. This line is the thick, solid on the

outside of a pattern. You should cut along this line.

Sometimes it will not be solid and you will see a large number

of lines. These indicate that a number of different sizes can be

cut, by follow a specific pattern line. Sometimes the size is

listed on or near the line, sometimes it is listed in the

instructions.

9 Check for sewing lines. Sometimes this broken or dotted

line is included to indicate where the sewing occurs. It's often

left out because there is a standard understanding that the

sewing occurs 5/8" or 15mm inside the cutting line, so if you

don't see it, don't panic.

10 Sew in darts. If you see a large triangle or diamond shape in

your pattern, this is usually to indicate a dart. Darts shape a

single piece of fabric to make it fit around a curved form.

11 Watch out for fold lines. These lines, usually clearly labeled

on indicated with a special line or bracket, indicate where a

piece of fabric should be folded, not cut. Be careful not to cut

along this line.[5]

Using the Pattern

1 Cut out the pattern pieces. Find each pattern piece that you

will need to use and cut it out. You will cut the fabric using the

solid line on the pattern pieces as a guide.

Use a pair of scissors specifically earmarked for cutting out

paper sewing patterns. Keep another pair of 8" (20.3cm) long

scissors specifically earmarked for cutting out fabric. Sewing

patterns tend to dull scissors and sharp scissors are needed

to easily cut fabric.

If you slip and make a cut where you shouldn't have, simply

tape it back into place as best you can. The important thing is

that the shape is retained and that you can still read the

markings.

You can transfer the final cut-out pattern onto card-stock or

cardboard if you want a stiffer pattern to use.

2 Lay out the patterns according to the user guide. The user

guide will contain a fabric layout guide for each of the items in

the pattern pack.

The layouts can vary according to which fabric widths you've

chosen and whether the fabric is "with nap" or not.[6] The term

"nap" refers to the up-and-down nature of a print (namely,

could the design be cut upside down by accident?).

Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric following the user guide.

Usually you will pin the pieces together using 5/8" (15mm)

seam allowance. However, make sure you double-check the

seam allowance in the pattern because not all patterns use

5/8" (15mm). You can also use pattern weights so you won't

damage fine or delicate fabric with the needles.

You will now have half of the garment. Have a friend check

the fit and help you make any needed alterations in size or

length.

3 Mark and cut the pattern. Mark the pattern using tailor's

chalk or a tracing wheel and tracing paper. You can also

make tape labels for the back of each pattern piece so you

won't get confused when you start to sew and don't know

what you are looking at.

Other Considerations

1 Choose a simple pattern for a first-time sewing

project. The less complicated, the easier it is to learn how to

use the pattern. Always read the description on the pattern

packaging when deciding whether or not the pattern interests

you; it will contain guidance on the item, including suggestions

for wearing or use. In addition to the overall description, the

details about the garment or item are often on the back of the

pattern envelope and will help guide you on fit and style.

2 Check to make sure you like the item. On the pattern you

buy you should find an image of the completed item. Most

patterns will include a photograph of the completed garment

or item on the front of the pattern, with illustrations on the

back. If there are variations such as different sleeve lengths,

different styles, different collars, etc., the images will usually

show these. When trying to get an idea of how a finished

garment will look, refer to the photographs over drawings, as

they're more realistic.

3 Check the pattern's difficulty level. On the package, there

should be some indicator of difficulty level. Some pattern

companies give an indication of the suitability from beginner

to advanced. Trust this estimation and don't bite off more than

you can chew.

4 Avoid lined garments. Don't try anything that needs to be

lined with another fabric; that's too advanced for the beginner.

Start with simple pieces like A-line skirts or basic tops, and

work on things like this until you are very comfortable with

your skills.

5 Choose the required fabric and supplies. On the back of

the pattern, you'll be instructed as to which fabric will suit the

sewing project. You will note that some patterns suggest a

range of fabric types, as well as warnings for fabrics that are

not suitable. This gives you leeway to purchase fabric that you

like, or that's within budget, etc., as well as forewarning you

that you will may have a bad experience if you try to use

fabric not suited for the pattern in question!

The amount of fabric will also be noted; this is important as it

gives you an indication of the cost if you need to buy it, or can

help you to decide whether you've enough fabric at home

already.

6 Make sure to get all sewing notions. These are the extras

required to complete the pattern, such as zips, buttons,

embellishments, etc. The size, length, and number of such

notions is usually made clear.

7 Be smart about fabric usage. Once you're more comfortable

using patterns, you'll want to find smarter ways to lay out your

pattern and cut the fabric. You can save a lot of money this

way, as patterns can often be more than a little generous.

Don't worry about this in the beginning though, as you will not

have the skills to judge where to cut right away.

Getting Extra Help

1 Learn to use a sewing machine. A sewing machine will be

much easier and can be crucial for sewing some patterns.

2 Learn to hand-stitch. Hand sewing is also a good skill to

have and can make some patterns or parts of patterns easier

to sew, if you can build the skill.

3 Sew button holes. Learning to sew button holes can be a

very useful sewing skill.

4 Make a nice seam. Making a professional looking seam is

also an important sewing skill.

5 Alter your clothes. Learning how to alter patters and existing

clothes will also be necessary to learn over time.

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