hosiery technology

8/3/2019 Hosiery Technology

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Hosiery technology

Radko Kovar, Martina Syrovatkova

KTT,

Technical University of Liberec,

Halkova 6, 461 17 Liberec, cz


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Brief content:

1. Principles of hosiery technology

2. Production of stockings and tights (pantyhose)

3. Production of socks and knee socks

4. Single-cylinder machines

5. Double cylinder machines

6. Machines programming

7. Finalization of products

8. Structure and properties of products

9. Supplementary information


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1. Principles of hosiery technology:

Content:

1.1. Classification of hosiery products

1.2. Standardization of hosiery products

1.3. Materials used in hosiery products

1.4. Welts

1.5. Shaping of heels and toes

1.6. Shaping of legs

1.7. Used knitted structures and designs

1.8. Closing of toes


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1.1. Classification of hosiery products

The term Hosiery products is used for clothes,

covering manly lower extremities (legs and foots)

From the point of view of fabric fines there are:

Fine products, usually made of multifilament yarns on

knitting machines with 24 40 needles per 25.4 mm

(fine women stocking and tights)

Course products, usually made of spun yarns onknitting machines with 5 24 needles per 25.4 mm

(socks, knee socks, course pantyhose)


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Machines used:

Majority of hosieryproducts is produced on

small-diameter circular

knitting machines


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Machines used:

Another used technologies are mainlyWarp knitting

Weft knitting on flat machines. Example:


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From the point of

view of product

length there are:Footlets (covers only

toe, foot ant heel)

Socks of different

lengths

Half hoses (reach

under or above the

knee)

Stockings

Tights (usually sewn

from 2 longer

stockings).


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In Czech Republic next standards are relevant:

CSN 804159: Elastic medical tights and compressive products

CSN 805801: Standard stockings, half-hoses, , classification

CSN 805802 EN 13770: Measuring of resistance of hosieryproducts in abrasion

CSN 805810: Fine stockings, half-hoses, socks and footlets

CSN 805841: Course tights, regulation and classification

CSN 800863: Measuring of weight of knitted products

CSN 800864: Measuring of dimensions and appearance of

hosiery products


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Some chosen ISO standards:

ISO 5971:1981 Size designation of clothes pantyhose

ISO 5971 (CSN 805044): Marking of sizes of hosiery

tights

ISO 7070 (CSN 805045): Marking of sizes of hosiery

products

ISO 8117:2003: Textile machinery - Knitting machines- Nominal diameters of circular machines


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1.3. Materials used in hosiery products

All usual textile yarns could be used, producedboth from staple and continuous fibers (spun yarns,

monofilament, multifilament)

Usually fine hosiery products prefers continuousfibers and course products staple spun yarns

Yarn linear density needs to correspond with the

machine gaugeg

, usually defined as number ofknitting needles per 25.4 mm (one English inch)

Roughly yarn diameter could be somewhere

around l/5 of needle pitch (25.4/g) or lower


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1.4. Welts

Quality welt should meet next demands:

To be fast (upper border ready for use)

No or low curling

Suitable stretchability

Double cylinder machines are able to produce very

suitable rib (double-faced) structure

Single cylinder machines are able to knit single-faced structure only, tubular welt is often used


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Mostly used types of welts:

a) Rib welt (1x1 rib structure) with fast border, greatstretchability, often with elastic inlayed yarn.

b) Tubular welt formed by transfer of kinks of the yarn insome of initial course again on knitting needles after

knitting double welt height


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1.5. Shaping of heels and toes

Heels and toes could be knitted as:

Reciprocated, knitted on reverse movement of the

needle bed and creating 3-D pouch on about one halfof the product.

Rotation producing only tubular fabric.


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Examples of heels

Reciprocateda) 3-D pouch on about one half of the product.

b) Part above the pouch could be reinforced.

Rotation

c) Producing only tubular fabric with inserted additionalcourses on about one half of the perimeter

d) Only reinforced and shaped by thermal setting later.


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Examples of toes

Reciprocated

a) Knitted in the same way as reciprocated heel but sawn together

later.

b) Similar toe with inserted a group of rotation courses.

Rotationc) Only reinforced tubular part is finalized by sewing. The seem

may be led from left to right side or from above down.


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1.6. Shaping of legs

The number of needle in circular needle bed is

done. This fact limits changes of product diameter.

Basic and generally used possibility is change ofstitches length.

The change of the yarn consumption is connected

with the change of wales and courses density andso as well with fabric diameter.


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Mostly used single-faced structures (from single bedmachines):

Plane structures

Plated structuresPlush structures

Laid-in structures

All in different modifications


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Mostly used double-faced structures (from double

bed machines):

Plane double-faced structures

Rib structures

Purl structures etc. in different modifications and designs

Heels, foots and toes are knitted in plane single-

faced structure. The reason is relatively flat surfaceand low thickness and so better comfort of user.


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1.8. Closing of toes

Product of circular machine is ended by tubular

open part and before usage the toe need to be

closed. Next two possibilities are important:

Closing the toes by sewing on product finalization

Closing the toes when knitting on circular machine.

There are several used principles (see chapters 2, 3, 7)

hosiery technology

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