hl heritage india
TRANSCRIPT
Preface
Handloom forms a precious part of generational legacy and exemplifies
the richness, which has been kept alive by skilled weavers engaged in the age-
old tradition of weaving. The weavers with their skillful blending of myths, faiths,
symbols and imagery provide their fabric an appealing dynamism. Their strength
lies in innovative designs, which cannot be replicated by the powerlooms. The
sector gives employment to more than 43 lakh handloom weavers and allied
workers and is second only to agriculture sector in terms of providing
employment. Handloom is the cultural heritage of our country and hence it is
imperative to protect and promote the sector.
The office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Ministry of
Textiles has been implementing various handloom Schemes for development of
handlooms and welfare of weavers. These programmes have supported the
handlooms by providing yarn at cheaper rates, dyes & chemicals, credit,
technology up-gradation, designs, skill up-gradation, marketing etc. Further,
continuous efforts in Research & Development have also resulted in reducing
drudgery of the handloom weavers and improving their productivity. These
technological developments have been implemented in different handloom
pockets and results have been documented in terms of improved earnings of
the weavers. An attempt has been made to capture these innovations in order
to disseminate the information and also to make a case for the need of further
such R&D interventions which can help reduce the fatigue and drudgery of the
workers. Further, the attempt is to make a case for stronger focus and greater
attention to protect and promote the handloom sector.
It is expected that the note “Handloom, A Rich Heritage of India – Needs
Protection and Promotion”, will be of use and interest to the readers and will
generate debate among all stakeholders. The readers may send their own
views, comments and suggestions at our email: [email protected]
Monika S.Garg
Handloom, A Rich Heritage of India
– Needs Protection and Promotion
Monika S.Garg,IAS
Manoj Jain, B.B. Paul, S. Ulaganathan
Dated - 16.7.2012
1. Historical perspective of Handloom
The origin of the art of weaving in India is shrouded in the mists of antiquity.
Fragments of woven cotton, bone needles and spindles have been
discovered at Mohen-jo-daro and Harappa, the ancient seats of the Indus
Valley Civilization. Even the Rigveda and the epics of the Mahabharata and
the Ramayana dwell upon the craft of weaving at length. Hazrat Khwaja
Bahudin Nakshaband Bhokhari Rahamtulla is credited with being the creator
of the Nakshband [Design Template for weaving] that completely
revolutionized the art of weaving. A hoard of block-printed and resist-dyed
fabrics, mainly of Gujarati origin, found in the tombs of Fostat, Egypt, are the
proof of large scale export of Indian cotton textiles in medieval times.
The above facts are testimony to the threads of handloom that has its roots in
prehistoric times in history. With a long tradition of excellence in its
craftsmanship, Indian handloom is said to have dated back to the ancient
ages. Understanding the way in which handloom sector has kept pace with
the changing times is not just a matter of academic curiosity, but it is also
indispensable to identify and understand the varied facets of it.
2. Definition of Handloom
The Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985 was enacted
with a view to protect the livelihood of millions of handloom weavers and rich
cultural heritage of Indian Handloom Industry from encroachment of the
powerloom and Mill Sector.
Handloom has been defined as follows:
a) As per the Section 2(b) of The Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for
Protection) Act, 1985, “Handloom” means any loom, other than
powerloom.
b) As per the Bureau of Indian Standards, “A hand operated machine for
producing cloth by weaving. In some instances, the shedding is
performed by foot operation.”
3. Weaving on a Handloom
Fabric is woven on a handloom by the interlacement of warp, running length-
wise and weft or filling, running width-wise. Two sets of warp threads
alternatively raised and lowered to form shed. Through this shed, the shuttle is
passed carrying across the weft thread which is beaten against the woven
fabric by the movable comb like frame or reed. When the heddle is shifted,
the two sets of warp reverse position, binding the weft into the fabric and
opening other shed.
Weaving involves three Primary Motions i.e. Shedding, Picking and Beating.
Shedding motion separates warp threads, according to pattern to allow for
weft insertions or picking prior to beating. Picking is the operation wherein
after the shed has been formed, the length of weft is inserted through the
shed. As soon as, a weft yarn is inserted, the reed pushes or beats up the weft
to the fell of the cloth. All the three motions are carried out by the weaver
manually for weaving of the fabric by interlacement of warp and weft. [
4. Government support to the Handloom Sector
The Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Ministry of
Textiles, Government of India has been implementing a number of
developmental schemes and programmes for the benefit and welfare of the
weavers. Apart from the schemes, following measures have been taken by
the Government for protection, revival and rejuvenation of the Handloom
Sector:
i) Reserving 11 handloom articles under The Handlooms (Reservation of
Articles for Production) Act 1985, which are not permitted for
production on powerlooms. Violation of the Reservation Orders invites
penalty.
ii) Registration of traditional handloom products under the Geographical
Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act 1999. The Act
provides legal protection to the Geographical Indications of goods
etc., and prevents unauthorized use of these by others. The office of
Development Commissioner for Handlooms provides financial
assistance to register handloom products under the Geographical
Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act 1999.
iii) Introduction of the Handloom Mark, which provides a guarantee to the
consumer that the products purchased are genuinely made on
handlooms.
iv) Hank Yarn Obligation: This is a mechanism to ensure adequate
availability of hank yarn to handloom weavers at reasonable prices.
The existing hank Yarn Packing Notification dated 17.04.2003
promulgated under Essential Commodities Act, 1955 prescribes that
every producer of yarn, who packs yarn for civil consumption, shall
pack at least 40% of yarn packed for civil consumption in hank form
and not less than 80% of the hank yarn packed shall be of counts 80s
and below.
5 Importance of the Handloom Sector
a) In the Rural Economy:
Handloom Sector is decentralized, unorganized and rural based, which plays
an important role in the country’s economy. It is one of the largest economic
activities, after agriculture. As per the Handloom Census of 2009-10, there are
23.77 lakh handlooms, employing 43.31 lakh handloom weavers and allied
workers. The Handloom Sector supports a large section of weavers and allied
workers who belong to weaker sections like SC, ST and OBC. The contribution
of Handloom Sector to the textile production, employment and export
earnings is very significant.
b) In Innovation Sector:
The strength of handloom lies in innovative designs, which cannot be
replicated by the powerlooms. The traditional handloom weaving in India has
been kept alive by traditional skilled weavers. It is because of such inimitable
designs and distinct weaving techniques that the handloom sector has
managed to withstand the onslaught of the powerloom and the mill sector in
the country. Some of the excellent work of arts transformed on fabrics by the
adept weavers are Kanchivaram of Tamil Nadu, Baluchari and Jamdani of
West Bengal, Paithani of Maharashtra, Chanderi and Meheswari of Madhya
Pradesh, Muga of Assam, Patola of Gujarat, Kani and Shehtoosh of Kashmir,
Tie & Dye Vichitrapuri and Bomkai of Orissa, Bandhini of Rajasthan, Brocades
of Varanasi, Balrampuram of Kerala, Pochampally of Andhra Pradesh etc.
Besides, handloom has the ability to make wide range of customized products
in lesser quantity by frequently changing the designs, colours and textures.
c) In Environment Protection:
Handlooms do not cause noise, air or water pollution. They do not consume
power, a scarcity these days, especially in rural areas where most of the
handlooms are located. Further, handlooms mainly use natural fibres like
cotton, wool, silk, jute etc. and therefore, handloom products are eco-
friendly.
6. Handloom - India vis-à-vis World
India occupies a prominent place in the world as far as number of
handlooms and the varieties of traditional handloom products are
concerned. India produces 85% of the handlooms of the world, producing
variety of products using all kinds of fibres and yarns of varying counts to
produce the widest range of products. The other countries having
handlooms include Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bangladesh, Norway, West Indies,
Indonesia etc., which produce the handloom products in a very limited
quantity, mainly for their internal consumption.
India’s export of handloom products during 2009-10 was US$ 260 million and
increased to US $ 365 million in 2010-11, recording a growth of 38%. The
biggest destination of India’s export of handloom products is the USA
followed by the EU.
7. Handloom Sector – Suffering From Low Productivity and Drudgery
In a world increasingly inclined to mechanisation and standardisation, the
handloom provides a refreshing change of unique richness of manual skill.
The sector represents the country’s traditional art form that has been
patronised and promoted since time immemorial.
The sector reflects not only the traditions of the weaving communities all
over India but also the socio-cultural heritage of our entire nation.
Therefore, it becomes obligatory on our part to maintain and preserve the
cultural rich and cultural heritage of the handlooms by their technological
up-gradation so as to improve the productivity and reduce the drudgery of
the handloom weavers and also by carrying out the product diversification.
In the Handloom Sector, low productivity and drudgery could be due to
following reasons:
i) Loom’s structure and designing are not scientifically and ergonomically
made. In fact, it varies from place to place, as a result of which more
effort is required to operate the loom resulting in excessive fatigue.
ii) Accessories like reed, heald, shuttle, pirn etc. which are used during
weaving are not of appropriate quality in most cases, resulting in poor
quality of fabric, less efficiency of the loom and more fatigue of the
weaver.
iii) Lack of dissemination of technological interventions to the handloom
weavers
iv) Reluctance to adopt appropriate technology because of belief in age
old traditional techniques they are used to.
In order to increase production of fabrics on handloom, which have unique
characteristics with sophisticated designs and finish, innovations and
improvisation shall be necessary. Unless the base is sustained and strengthened,
its quintessential products cannot be augmented.
8. First Step towards Technological Up-gradation: Flying Shuttle
Initially, handloom weavers could only weave a cloth as wide as their armspan.
If cloth needed to be wider, two people would do the task (often this would be
an adult with a child). John Kay patented the Flying Shuttle in 1733. The weaver
held a picking stick that was attached by cords to a device at both ends of the
shed. With a flick of the wrist, one cord was pulled and the shuttle was propelled
through the shed to the other end with considerable force, speed and
efficiency. A flick in the opposite direction and the shuttle was propelled back.
A single weaver had control of this motion but the flying shuttle could weave
much wider fabric than an arm’s length at much greater speeds than had been
achieved with the hand thrown shuttle. The flying shuttle was one of the key
developments in weaving, the whole picking motion no longer relied on manual
skill. (Source: Wikipedia)
9. Technological up-gradation of handlooms – Further Innovations
As a part of the developmental activities, various technological
interventions have been implemented in different handloom pockets of the
country. However, these interventions still need to be disseminated and
implemented in phased manner to improve the productivity and reduce fatigue
to the weavers so as to improve the earnings of the weavers. This includes
following technological interventions:
a) providing pneumatic jacquard system and motorized jacquard on the
existing handloom so as reduce fatigue and improve productivity,
b) providing take-up & let off motions on the existing handloom so as reduce
fatigue and improve productivity and efficiency by 15%.
c) using multiple box motion for continuous weaving of two different kinds of
weft, thereby reducing fatigue and improving efficiency by more than
20%.
d) using of SPS Korvoi sley for weaving solid border instead normal sley,
especially for silk sari, resulting in more than 50% efficiency and reduces
fatigue.
e) using Catch cord system for weaving solid border sari, especially for cotton
sari, thereby increasing efficiency by more than 100% and reduces fatigue.
f) using multiple buti weaving sley for weaving butis gives 200-300% more
efficiency and reduces fatigue.
i) using Roller temple in place of wooden/bamboo temple will add 5% more
ufficiency and reduce fatigue.
j) using improved frame loom fitted with take up, let off motion, fly wheel,
roller temple, multiple box motion etc increases more than 50% efficiency
and reduces fatigue.
k) Twin cloth weaving mechanism for weaving mats, stoles etc of narrow
width having clear selvedges on both sides increases efficiency by more
than 150%.
l) providing jacquard on the existing handloom so as to weave any intricate
design.
m) providing dobby on the existing handloom so as to weave geometrical
designs.
n) providing healds, reeds, bobbins, shuttles, harness etc. to improve
efficiency and the quality of the products.
o) providing warp beam and fabric beam on the existing handloom so as to
improve productivity etc.
Photographs of some of the interventions are enclosed.
Besides above, handlooms like Pedal Loom, Tara Loom etc. are also in use
in different handloom pockets for increased productivity and reduced
drudgery to the handloom weavers.
10. Suggested interventions for Up-gradation of handlooms and for reducing
drudgery of handloom weavers
In order to sustain the handloom sector, it is essential to put in continuous efforts
to upgrade the handlooms and to improve the productivity and reduce the
fatigue so that the weavers’ earnings are improved. Scientific advancement
and technology are not only an integral part of industry but also major
determinants of competitiveness. Technological change can create new
possibilities for the design development, production process, packaging,
distribution, it is the precursor to strategic innovation. For a meaningful
intervention for technology change, it is important to understand the prevailing
level of technology:
Product technology in terms of equipments and machinery.
Process technology in terms of techniques of production, usage of
machinery, equipment and processing of raw material or finished goods
and
Human skill to deploy technology.
The need of the hour is to focus on vital areas concerning improvements and
innovations in process and skill level which can bring about major changes in
the way things are done. It is sometimes forgotten that the handloom sector
thrives totally on the skill of the weaver. It is also forgotten that it is the manual
labour involved in the process of hand weaving. Any change that requires extra
labour or which develops quick fatigue to the weaver will be rejected. But
positive Interventions in these areas would result in substantial savings in human
effort, time, energy and other valuable resources.
11. Dissemination of technological interventions
Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Ministry of Textiles has
been disseminating various technological interventions through different on-
going programmes. Some of the components have been provided to the
beneficiaries of Cluster Development Programme and Group Approach
Projects. Efforts are also made to popularise them through Design Exhibitions-
cum-Dyeing Workshops, Awareness Programmes, Training Programmes
organized through Weavers’ Service Centres. As a result, a number of these
interventions are being used in some handloom pockets, benefitting handloom
weavers in terms of increased productivity and reduced drudgery. However,
there is still a need for further dissemination and deeper penetration of these
innovations.
12. ISSUES TO PONDER
i) We may permit each of the primary motions to be seen individually and
to be tried for technological improvements by operations research,
retaining one among them to be manually driven so that strain levels of
the weaver reduce. The handloom could be modified such that one of
the three primary motions i.e. shedding, picking and beating is done
manually and the other two may be done mechanically without using
electricity.
ii) There is a scope to take up Research and Development Projects (R&D)
to improve the productivity and reduce drudgery of the handloom in
following manner:
Standardization of looms and accessories in a scientific way
maintaining all ergonomic parameters and keeping in mind the
products that will be woven on it.
Product development and diversification activities may be
undertaken on a large scale to suit the customer requirements,
both in domestic and international markets. Non-conventional
products like tie, belt, stole, scarf, bags, headbands, pouches,
and other accessories, made-ups, home furnishings etc. may be
introduced in a big way, apart from conventional products like
saree, dhoti etc.
iii) There is a need for dissemination of the technological innovations so
that their benefits could be reaped by more weavers.
In traditional Handloom sector which is famous for ethic designs and eco-
friendly processes, the challenge is to introduce technology to enlarge the
production base and up-grade the process without tampering the Unique Selling
Propositions (USP), the distinctive features and the emotional aspect.
Photographs of the technological interventions on handlooms
Improved frame loom
Loom with take-up motion
Loom with fly wheel
Twin cloth Loom
Multiple box Loom
Multiple buta weaving sley
Korvoi sley (left side)
Korvoi sley (right side)
Annexure -I
S.No. Name of Officer-In-
Charge, Weavers
Service
Centre/Indian
Institute of
Handloom
Technology
Office
telephone
No.
Fax No. e. mail
1. Sh. D.R.Gupta
Director
Weavers’Service
Centre
C-I-B, Rajaji Bhawan,
Besant Nagar
CHENNAI-600090
044-
24918655 (O)
24917964 (O)
24461951 (O)
24465015
24916707
24917496
2. Sh. Vishesh Nautiyal,
Dy. Director,
Weavers’ Service
Centre,
Arulnagar (adjacent
to Machavaram
Police Station)
VIJAYAWADA-
520008
0866-
2492213 (O)
2490916
24922132
491153
3. Sh. P.K.Jain,
Dy. Director
Weavers’ Service
Centre
IIIrd Floor,
Chenatha Bhawan,
Nampalli,
HYDERABAD-500001
040-
24603637 (O)
24730668
24656048
24614918
4. Sh. B.B.Paul
Director
Weavers’ Service Centre
Weavers Colony,
Bharat Nagar
DELHI-110052
011-
27303793 (O)
27302999 (O)
27307560
27301002
27304012
5. Sh. Hira Lal,
Asstt. Director,
Weavers’ Service Centre
0542-
2203834 (O)
2203834 [email protected]
S.No. Name of Officer-In-
Charge, Weavers
Service
Centre/Indian
Institute of
Handloom
Technology
Office
telephone
No.
Fax No. e. mail
Chowkaghat
VARANASI-221002 2207685 (O)
officer-
6. Sh. S.V.Mathur,
Dy. Director
Weavers Service Centre
F-4, Industrial Estate,
Polo Ground,
INDORE-452015
0731-
2420545 (O)
2421501 (O)
2420545,
2420723
7. Sh. S.K.Rohilla.
Sr. Lecturer
Indian Institute of
Handloom Technology,
Chowkaghat
VARANASI-221002
0542-
2203833(O)
2208329 (O)
2203833
2208692 [email protected]
8. Sh. Antao Irwin Josico,
Director
Indian Institute of
Handloom Technology,
Manor House,
Foulks Compund
SALEM-636001
0427-
2296943 (O)
2295254(O)
2295254