HISTORY OF MODERN DRESS

A LOOK AT 20TH CENTURY FASHIONS

Fashion Movement principles

KEEP THIS IN MIND…• If economy is up (good)- hemline is up• If economy is down (bad) - hemline is down• Wars have given us a fashion trend

Hemline- the lowest edge of a garment, usually referring to the lower edge of a skirt or dress

1900’s• Victorian style• Hourglass shape- created by corset

1900’sWOMEN• Long hemlines• Modest- covered• Ruffles• Hats• Umbrellas• Gloves

1900’sMEN• Hats• Canes• 3 piece suits• Dress shoes

• First introduction of the Letterman sweater

1910’sWOMEN• Corset gone- natural silhouette• Big, wide fly away hats• Ladies getting into sports• Introduction of the hobble skirt

1910’S

1910’SWORLD WAR I- 1914• Trench warfare• Introduction of a new fashion…

1910’sThe trench coat…then and now

1920’sThe Age of Contradictions• Prohibition/Speak easy bars• Josephine Baker/can’t get work

Introduction of jazz, feature films, nail polish, cheek rouge

1920’sWOMEN• With Jazz music introduction… Charleston

dance• Flappers- tassels, drop waist, pearls, short

hair cut

1920’sSports still an interest among men and womenIntroduction of the v-neck tennis sweater• Trend created by Bill Tilden (tennis star)• Lacoste

1920’sFur was big among men and women• Raccoon coats• Worn day or night

1920’s1929- WALL STREET CRASH

This had a huge impact on the 1930’s

1930’sWith the Depression, people turned their focus

on happier things to get their mind off of their troubles:

• Focus on Hollywood- glamour• Make-up

1930’sMEN

More Hollywood influence…• Clark Gable (It Happened One Night)• Showed bare skin• White t-shirt sales went down

1930’SWOMEN• Big shoulder pads• Narrow waist- accentuated by skinny belt• More conservative than 1920’s

1940’sRationing of materials due to WWII• Fabrics used for uniforms, tents, parachutes• Women worked in factories• Women drew their nylons on• Shorter jackets, smaller pockets

1940’sIntroduction of new trend caused by air

warfare…

1940’sTHE AVIATOR JACKET• Aviator movie starring Leonardo DiCaprio• Jacket will evolve into another style during

next decade• What other trend became popular?

1940’sZOOT SUITS• Big shoulders• Long jacket- mid thigh• High wasted pant- legs ballooned out• Bright colors• Noticeable patterns

1940’sDESIGNERS:

Claire McCardell- American sportswear lookChristian Dior (1947)- The New Look

1940’sOther important looks:• Tennis shoes worn outside of tennis court due

to new dance craze- Jitterbug• Beatniks- underground, anti-conformist

groups… black berets

1950’sKnown as Baby Boom generation• Starting families• Women home with children• Social gatherings• Moves to suburbs

1950’sWOMEN• Return to glamour• Natural hourglass shape• Pedal pushers, pencil skirts, ballet slippers,

coned shaped bust line• Fashion icon- Audrey Hepburn

1950’sMarilyn Monroe

1950’sTEENAGE FASHIONS• Jeans (Levi’s)• White t-shirt is back • Motorcycle jacket• “Greasers”- duck tail

1950’sTEENAGE FASHIONS• Poodle skirt, saddle shoes, pony tails• Introduction of first bikini

1950’sELVIS PRESLEY• The first “dude”• Bad boy image• Clean cut college boy

1950’sINTRODUCTION OF BARBIE DOLL

1960’sPOLITICAL/SOCIAL MOVEMENTS:• Black Panthers• Anti-war protests (Vietnam War)• Cold War

1960’sBRITISH INVASION• Beatles• Mary Quant- first designer of mini-skirt• The MOD look

1960’sTWIGGY• First supermodel• Different from full-figured women of earlier

decades

1960’sSURFER LOOK• Beach Boys• Jan and Dean• Southern California look

1960’sLANDING ON THE MOON• Cold War- race to the moon• Designer Pierre Cardin• Futuristic fashions

1960’s

1960’sHIPPIES• All different hemlines• Hair- Afro or long and straight• Fringe, suede, denim, quilt patchwork tops

and dress• Peace signs, tie-dye

1960’sFASHION ICON• First lady Jackie O• Gloves, pill hats, pearls, big sunglasses• Elegant and chic

1970’sMUSIC HAD HUGE IMPACT ON FASHIONS• Glam • Soul and funk• Punk• Disco

1970’sGLAM• Gender bending• David Bowie, KISS

1970’sSOUL AND FUNK• Black is beautiful• Afros• Wild outfits

1970’sPUNK• The Ramones• British designer- Vivienne Westwood

1970’sDISCO• Polyester pantsuits• Bell bottoms• Platforms

1970’sDESIGNER YVES ST. LAURENT• Women going to workforce- women wearing

pantsuits• Safari jacket• Designer for legendary house- Christian Dior

1970’sOTHER IMPORTANT LOOKS:• Exercise wear• Bohemian look• Ethnic prints

1980’sTHE BIGGER THE BETTER

1980’s• Big hair• Big shoulder pads• Big accessories• Bold, bright colors

1980’sFIRST DESIGNER JEANS• Calvin Klein

1980’sADROGYNOUS LOOKS• Guys look like girls• Girls look like guys

1980’sFASHION ICONS

1980’sOTHER IMPORTANT LOOKS:

1980’sEND OF THE 1980’S:• Oklahoma City bombing• Persian/Gulf War• People concerned about authority- distrust of

government• Start of recession• Led to popular fashions in the 90’s

1990’sNEW TREND DUE TO WAR…

1990’sEXTREMES CAUSE REVERSALS• Lots of black

1990’sGRUNGE• Seattle-based band- Nirvana• Flannels• Jeans• Messy hair• Doc Martens

1990’sHIP-HOP• Baggy jeans• Athletic inspired• Designer Tommy Hilfiger• Cargo pants• Bling• Phat Farm

1990’sGWEN STEFANI

1990’sHAMMER TIME• Parachute pants…then• Harem pants…now

1990’sEND OF 90’S:• Rave wear

New milleniumWHAT DO THE 2000’S LOOK LIKE TO YOU?• Flats• Designer jeans (skinny jeans especially)• Bohemian look• Hair extensions/bob• Asymmetrical• Peace signs