hand weaving of wool - an over view -...

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CHAPTER- III HAND WEAVING OF WOOL - AN OVER VIEW 3.1 IN INDIA 3.2 IN KARNATAKA 3.3 KAMBLI - THE WOOLEN BLANKET 3.4 THE SHEEP 3.5 THE WOOL 3.6 THE WOOL WEAVERS CALLED KURUBAS 3.7 INSTITUTIONAL AGENCIES LThe Central Wool Development Board iLThe Karnataka Sheep and Sheep Products Board ULSheep Breeders Association iv.Sheep forms v.Wool Analysis Laboratory vLWool Apex Society viLGrama Bharathi Apex Federation viiLKarnataka Khadi and Gramodyoga Sangha ix.Karnataka Handloom Development Corporation x.Karnataka State Khadi and Village Industries Board xi.Wool Weavers Co-operative Societies. 3.8 CONCLUSION

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CHAPTER- III

HAND WEAVING OF WOOL - AN OVER VIEW

3.1 IN INDIA

3.2 IN KARNATAKA

3.3 KAMBLI - THE WOOLEN BLANKET

3.4 THE SHEEP

3.5 THE WOOL

3.6 THE WOOL WEAVERS CALLED KURUBAS

3.7 INSTITUTIONAL AGENCIES

LThe Central Wool Development Board iLThe Karnataka Sheep and

Sheep Products Board ULSheep Breeders Association iv.Sheep forms

v.Wool Analysis Laboratory vLWool Apex Society viLGrama Bharathi

Apex Federation viiLKarnataka Khadi and Gramodyoga Sangha

ix.Karnataka Handloom Development Corporation x.Karnataka State

Khadi and Village Industries Board xi.Wool Weavers Co-operative

Societies.

3.8 CONCLUSION

HAND WEAVING OF WOOL - AN OVER VIEW

This chapter is conceived to provide a bird's eye view of woolen

handloom industry in India and Kamataka. It is found necessary to give an

idea about environmental and institutional settings of this industry. It is tried to

present a brief picture of this industry in the past and present along with the

social, cultural and economic importance of the product and the producers.

3.1 IN INDIA

In India, handloom weaving is a major cottage industry in every state

supporting lakhs of persons either as direct earners or as dependent earners.

For the year 1951 the total number of handlooms were reported to be about 30

lakhs. Of these, 8.4 lakhs were in Madras, 4.8 lakhs in Assam 1.5 lakhs in

Uttarpradesh, about 2 lakhs in Bihar, 1.6 lakhs in Bomby, 1.2 lakhs in Manipur,

1.3 lakhs in Orissa, 1 lakh in Madhyapradesh and a little less than 1 lakh in

west Bengal. In addition, about 23,000 power looms are reported to be in use,

of which nearly 15,000 are in Bombay, and rest, mainly in Madhyapradesh,

Mysore, West Bengal, Punjab and Madras.^

Cottage sector in the woolen industry, by location, is concentrated in

three distinct climatic regions; hill areas, desert areas and plains. Two of these

hill areas are having little employment opportunities other than weaving for

lack of power, communication and productive asset resources. Even

agricultural activities in these regions are limited due to severity of climate.

Within these regions, there is concentration of industry in many states.

1 Planning Commission of India, "All India Rural Credit survey Report- 1954",

P. 116

43

Region - States

1. Hills — Jammu & Kashmir, HimachalPradesh, Uttar Pradesh hills.

2. Desert areas - Rajasthan, Punjab

3. Plains - Haryana, Maharashtra, Andra Pradesh, Kamataka.

Hand weaving of wool is of importance in certain areas. In Rajasthan, which is

the biggest wool producing area in the country, the spinning and weaving of

wool are of special economic significance. In certain regions, where the total

economic resources are poor, as for example in Rayalseema,wool production is

particularly important, although relatively low quality of wool makes possible

only the production of coarse blankets and carpets of inferior quality. Carpets

are manufactured on a large scale in Rajasthan, in Mirzapur and Bhadohi in

Uttara Pradesh, and in Eluru and Masali Patnam in Andhra Pradesh.

The woolen industry in India broadly falls under two sectors-organised

sector and decentralized sector. Organised sector comprises of (i) Composite

Mills (ii) Combining units (iii) Worsted and non-worsted spinning units (iv)

Machine made carpet-manufacturing units. Decentralized sector comprises of

(i) Hosiery and Knitting (ii) Power loom (iii) Hand Knotted carpets, Druggets

and Namdahas (iv) Independent dyeing and processing houses."'

Table-3.1 presents information regarding present scenario of Indian

woolen industry for the year 2002-03. However, it does not provide more

information regarding handlooms.

2. Jain. L.C,1983, op.cit. 427 3. Planning Commission of India, Report on wool and Textiles, 2003, Ch-l,P-66

44

Table 3.1

The Wool Industry in India- Present Scenario

SI. No.

1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6.

Particulars

Total number of registered units Total number of persons employed Total exports(excluding hand made carpets, dharies etc) 2000-01 Total imports of raw wool 2001 -02 Total imports of woolen and cotton Rugs 2000-01 Installed Capacity as on 20-07-2001 2001 -02

i) a)wool combing (million Kgs) b)Synthetic fibre (million Kgs)

ii) Worsted spindles (Nos. in Lakhs) iii) Non worsted spindles (Nos. in Lakhs) iv) Power loom (including decentralized

sector) v) Machine made carpet sector

(lakhs sq.mtrs) (million Kgs)

Amount/Quantity

718 12 lakhs (app)

Rs. 1642.22 (Crs) Rs.l378.74(Crs)

53.75(Millionkgs) 72.49 (Million Kgs)

29.25 3.57 6.04 4.7

7228

8.10 2.27

Source: Compiled from Annual Report 2002-03, Planning Commission of India.

3.2 IN KARNATAKA

Cottage industries and handicrafts were important in the economy of

erstwhile Mysore State."* Handloom industry is one of the ancient and

important industries in Kamataka. Even today it provides means of livelihood

to over 2% of the population of the state and has been observed that the

industry was flourishing in the ancient Kamataka. Literary sources like

writings of Harihara and Bilhana speak of large variety of fabrics produced in

Kamataka and taxes like nuludere (tax on yarn), maggadere (tax on loom),

bannige (tax on dyeing), etc., are also mentioned. Weaving also flourished

under Tippu and Haider, Kings of Mysore. Bangalore, Doddaballapur, Hubli

48. NCAER, Govemment of India, 1965, Op.cit.P162

45

Gadag and Ilkal were flourishing centers of traditional crafts during the 19*

century as well. With the advent of British, the industry had to face severe

competition from their textile mill products. MacDonald wrote in 1862,

"Bangalore is supposed to have contained 12000 looms, but here is only a third

of that number now in operation" and he adds that "many weavers left the

towns and gone into interior since every necessity of life has become earnestly

dear".^

However, the textile group including manufacture of cotton and wool

fabrics under cottage industry conditions did not disappear totally. From 1913,

with the establishment of Industrial Department in Mysore state, attempts were

made to rejuvenate and revitalize those industries. The Swadeshi Movement

also fostered the handloom industry. The agencies, which accounted for the

development of this industry are. All India Handloom Board and Khadi and

Village Industries Commission. This industry in Kamataka, even after the re­

organisation, has occupied a place of prominence by virtue of its being the

largest cottage industry providing means of livelihood to about 7.5 lakh

persons, mostly in villages. According to 1975 Census Handlooms , there

existed 1, 02,834 handlooms of which about 40% were within the co-operative

fold.

The major objective of the development program as envisaged in Five

Year Plans for the handloom industry are, (1) To increase the co-operative

coverage, (2) To revitalize the existing co-operative societies so as to bring

more looms under production program, (3) To provide such assistance as

would raise the level of technical efficiency and art, (4) To assist Apex weavers

co-operative institutes in order to enable them to play a more effective role in

marketing and (5) To provide welfare facilities for handloom weavers.^

5. S.U.Kamath, 1982, Op.cit.P.895 6. lbidP.876 7. IbidP.896

46

By the end of 1980, Kamatakafs woolen industry had established a firm

footing with an annual production Of 3,825 tones of wool and with 2500

handlooms to weave it into fabrics an(| blankets. Out of this 2500 looms, 1800

looms were under co-operative sector. Kamblis produced in Kamataka —

particularly in Kolar, Bijapur, Chitradurga and Belgaum districts are well

known for their quality. About 96% of Co-operatives of wool weavers

working in the State were producing'about Rs.87.89 lakhs worth of kamblis i

and blankets. 17000 artisans were engaged in this industry whose annual earning is about 35.66 lakhs. Rs.120.67 lakhs worth of goods and about 14,770

artisans were in this field earning about Rs.39.70 lakhs.

Table-3.2 shows the distribution of number of woolen handlooms /

households at different point of time in Kamataka. During the period from

1873 to 1955 the numbers of looms have been increased in almost all

TableNo-3.2

Number of looms from 1873-1955 and house holds in 1994

SI. No.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

Compi

District

Bangalore Kolar Tumkur Mysore Chikkamagalure Shimoga Chitradurga Hassan Mandya Bellary Other Districts Total

led from: 1. T.K.Laxman, 1966,

. . . . J ,

No. of Looms

1873 1

NA 1732 NA

1822 1451 480 387

1500 NA NA

, NA 7372

Cbttage,

1931

499 797

2360 1280 230

90 1917 333 NA NA NA

7086

and Sma

1955

238 818

2248 583 97

144 2193

163 520 NA NA

8004

I Scale Inc

No. of households

1994

27 10

2298 0

142 0

4330 02

521 0

2547 9867

ustries in Mysore, Mysore, Rao and Raghavan, part-II, P.68

2. Report on Rural Artisan Survey - 1994, Vol.2B, District Tables, Directorate of Economics and Statistics,Bangalore, P.l

8. S.U.Kamath, 1982, Op.cit.P.873

47

districts except in Bangalore, Mysore, Chikkamagalore and Hassan district

where the numbers have been decreased.. By the end of 1994, the large

numbers of woolen handloom housefiolds were concentrated in Chitradurga

and Tumkur districts

Report on The Rural Artisan Survey conducted by the Government of

Kamataka in the year 1994 provides extensive data about the woolen handloom

industry in Kamataka.

Table-3.3 provides the data about the distribution of wool weaving

households-district wise, along with the distribution of total workers and hired

workers. According to the survey there were 9,867 wool weaving households

in Kamataka in 1993-94. Among them Chitradurga district only had 4,330

households forming 43.89 per cent of the total. Tumkur is the next largest

district having 2,298 woolen handloom households forming 23.29 percent.

These two districts, in all, consist of 67.18 percent of artisans in the State. The

other districts account for 2547 households that is about 26 per cent of the total.

The table No.2.2 shows that until the year 1955 there was a spatial

spread of these artisans in the State when compared to the year 1994. There

were about 163 looms were there in Hassan district in 1955and by 1994 the

number has come down to two only.

It indicates the shift of artisang from wool weaving to other occupations

as they might have found it not viable to continue in the same occupation from

the view point of economic retum. The expansion of Bangalore and Mysore

cities too might have influenced the woolen weavers to give up the job in favor

of other occupations generated by urbanization. However, the number of

household artisans has been increased most probably due to the encouragement

the sheep rearing received in the district of Chitradurga.

48

Table-3.3 Distribution of Woolen Handloom Households and Workers

by District (Rural), 1994

SI. No.

1 1

2 3 4 5 6

IBA 7 8 9

10

District

2 BANGALORE BANGALORE RURAL CHITRADURGA KOLAR SHIMOGA TUMKUR

NGALORE IVISION BELGAUM BIJAPUR DHARWAD UTTARA KANNADA

II BELGAUM DIVISION 11 12 13 14

BELLARY BIDAR GULBARGA RAICHUR

III GULBARGA IVISION 15

16 17 18 19 20 IV

CHIKKAMAGALUR DAKSHINA KANNADA HASSAN KODAGU MANDYA MYSORE

MYSORE DIVISION STATE

No. of house holds

3 12

15 4330

10 0

2298 4369

294 561

1326

0 2181

0 46

184 126 356 142

0 2 0

521 0

2961 9867

Percent­age

4 0.12

0.15 43.89

0.10 0.00 232

44.28 2.98 5.69

13.43

0.00 22.1

0 0.47 1.86 1.28 3.61 1.44

0.00 0.02 0.00 5.28 0.00

30.01 ibo.oo

Total

5 40

50 14124

33 0

7917 14254

686 1503 2465

0 4654

0 185 740 508

1433 491

0 7 0

1795 0

10203 30544

Woolen arti Percent­

age 6 0.13

0.16 46.25

0.11 0.00

25.91 46.67

2.25 4.92 8.07

0.00 15.24

0 0.61 2.42 1.66 4.69 1.61

0.00 0.02 0.00 5.88 0.00 33.4

100.00

san workers

Hired

7 5

6 1782

4 0

58 1798

16 54 0

0 70

0 6

22 15 43

4

0 1 0

13 0

75 1986

Percent­age 8 0.25

0.30 89.73 0.20 0.00 2.93

90.53 0.81 2.71 0.00

0.00 3.52 0.00 0.30 1.11 0.76 2.17 0.20

0.00 0.05 0.00 0.65 0.00 3.78

100.00

Source: Report on the Rural Artisan Survey-1994, Vol-2B (District Tables), Directorate of Economics and Statistics, Bangalore, P.l

Table-2.3 presents information about the district wise distribution of

house holds and division of workers. Out the total work force of 30,554 in the

year 1994, 1986 were the hired workers forming only 6.5 percent of the total.

In other words, it can be clearly understood that the wool weaving is carried

out by the family labour. Out of the total work force of 14124 in Chitradurga

49

district, 1782 are the hired workers i.e. 12.62 per cent of the total. This

percentage is almost remaining same in all the districts of Bangalore Revenue

Division, excluding Shimoga where the hand weaving of wool is nil. In

Belgaum division, this percentage is 1.50 followed by 3.00 percent in Gulbarga

division and 0.79 percent in Mysore division. The Rural Artisans Survey

Report- 1994 also reveals that the industry is totally a manufacturing one and

no other activity like servicing has been undertaken. Table-3.4 reveals that out

of the total number of workers about 68.43 per cent are illiterates. There were

no graduates and persons technically trained in the occupation. Among the

literates 54.77 per cent were studied upto Primary Standard, 45.23 per cent

were studied upto Higher Primary Standard and there were no weavers

educated above Higher Primary Standard. Hand weaving of wool in Kamataka

is almost an hereditary occupation carried out largely with own capital under

single ownership.'

The same Report provides information about the distribution of

households based on the nature of job and the income category to which the

households belong. It classified the households into those who hold the craft as

a ftiU time job and those who hold it as an income supporting occupation

besides the main occupation like agriculture, rearing of animals, etc.

According to the report, 4922 households whose total income was below

Rs.5000 per annum had resorted to this craft as a full time job that is, 49.89 per

cent of the total. The percentage of house holds whose income fall between

Rs.5000 to Rs.10000 in the same category is 37.43. In all, about 87 per cent of

the total households are supported by this occupation totally for their livelihood

and their income was below Rs.lO, 000.'**

9. Government of Kamataka, Report on the Rural Artisan Survey -1994, Vol.2B (District Tables) Directorate of Economics and Statistics, Bangalore, P.64

10.Ibid.

50

Table-3.4 Distribution based on Education Leves and Literacy Percentage of

Handloom Artisan Workers : District wise- 1994

SI. No.

1

1

2

3

4

5

6

DISTRICT

2

BANGALORE

BANGALORE RURAL

CHITRADURGA

KOLAR

SHIMOGA

TUMKUR

I BANGALORE DIVISION

7

8

9

10

BELGAUM

BIJAPUR

DHARWAD

UTTARA KANNADA

II BELGAUM DIVISION

11

12

13

14

BELLARY

BIDAR

GULBARGA

RAICHUR

III GULBARGA DIVISION

15

16

17

18

19

20

CHIKKAMAGALUR

DAKSHINA KANNADA

HASSAN

KODAGU

MANDYA

MYSORE

IV MYSORE DIVISION

STATE

Percent Household

Primary 3

50.00

47.06

45.65

45.45

0.00

50.00

45.67

73.17

62.75

85.27

0.00

79.18

0.00

95.45

94.38

93.44

94.19

59.15

0.00

59.29

0.00

59.23

0.00

59.27

54.77

Higher 4

50.00

52.94

54.35

54.55

0.00

50.00

54.33

26.83

37.25

14.73

0.00

20.82

0.00

4.55

5.62

6.56

5.81

40.85

0.00

40.71

0.00

40.77

0.00

40.73

45.23

age of Literate Artisan Workers Graduation

5

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

Technical 6

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0 00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

Source: Report on the Rural Artisan Survey-1994, Vol-2B (District Tables), Directorate of Economics and Statistics, Bangalore, P.3

51

3.3 KAMBLI - THE COARS WOOLEN BLANKET

Historians and scholars are of the opinion that during the civilizations of

ancient Egypt, Babylonia and Mesopotamia, woolen products were used by the

people as blankets and druggets. Among all others, Persians were said to be

the first to weave and use woolen products in the world. Since sheep rearing is

one of the ancient occupations of India, wool weaving has also been an

important household occupation in the States like Jammu and Kashmir,

Rajasthaiv, Andhra Pradesh, Kamataka and Tamil Nadu. The Ain-l-Akabari

mentions that the Emperor Akbar was an ardent admirer for Kashmiri woolen

shawls. By the third quarter of 18* century, Kashmir shawls had became

synonymous with fine woolen wear in India and were famous in all the

fashionable circles of the West and trade was well established with China,

Afghanistan and Turkey etc.'* Products made out of sheep wool were mainly

classified as Blanket, Druggets, Carpets and Shawls.

'Kambli' is a colloquial Kannada name for the coarse woolen blanket.

Its history goes back to that period of man's history during which he pursued

sheep rearing as main or supporting occupation along with agriculture. It has

been in use in India since the Vedic period. There is a mention of it in

Rigveda. We can find the references of the use of Kamblis in the ages of

Ramayana and Mahabharatha. Historical references reveal that the nomads

from central Asia were the first to rear the sheep and weave kambli out of the

wool procured from these sheep. Th^se nomads carried this occupation to the

European countries including India, cfuring later periods. Kambli Nagideva, a

Sharana* of 12* century A.D.Kamataka during the period of

Sri.Basaveshwara, was said to be the weaver of Kambli. Some writers have

spelt the 'Kambli' as 'cumli' also.*^

11. University of Mysore, 1971, Kannada Vishwakosha, Vol.3, Mysore, Prasaranga, Manasagangotri, P-532

12. Ibid. P.533 * During 12* century A.D., in Kamataka, Sharana means a spiritual practitioner.

52

People use Kambli as both blanket and drugget. Since it protects the

body from external heat and cold, it has been in use in all seasons. The artistic

grandeur of the kamblis had won the fascination of the people of Ancient

Greek and Rome. Kamblis were widely used both in rural and urban areas.

Because of its universality in use irrespective of seasons, it has become a

necessity for the plantation workers in the coastal region. It is an important

object on many religious ceremonies of Hindus. Many rituals loose importance

if kamblis were not used on such occasions. In temples also it has been used as

a drugget. Sometimes it serves as a sacred wear to cover the statues of God.

The great excellence of these blankets is their quality of preventing water when

raining. The finer they are, the better they do this. Some have been made to be

impenetrable by water and were valued high also.'"* Of all woolen fabrics, the

kambli or blanket was an indispensable article of daily use for all most all

classes of people in the past. The finest kinds of these were of superior type

and made only to order. The bulk of demand for these blankets used to come

partly from the Malnad areas in the State and partly from the Nilgiris. It was a

recognized custom that labourers employed in plantations should be presented

with kamblis every year before the commencement of the monsoon season.'^

There have been about six types of kapiblis. This classification has been made

on the basis of their use, process of making, colour of wool used, quality of

raw-wool and demand for in the market. These are, (1) Hurigambali, (2)

Ujjugambali, (3) Sannakambali, (4) Shawls, (5) Gaddhuge Dhavali and (6)

Kariya Kanthe. Hurigambali is made out of rough wool. The thickness of

thread used for weaving this type of kambli is more, which will be woven in

four folds. The same user could use half of this as blanket and remaining half

can be as drugget.

13. Ibid.534 14. Francis Buchanan, 1807, Journey from Madras through the countries of

Mysore, Canara and Malbar, VoI.III, P.330 15. Srisathyam, 1967, Mysore State Gezetteer-Chitradurga District, Mysore

Government Press, P. 170

53

Ujjugambali is an artistically woven blanket, which needs more number

of workers to weave. It is made out of wool of first shearing. The wool around

the neck and back of the sheep is generally used for making. Hence this kambli

is very soft. Medium thick thread is used for weaving. It is of natural black

colour and no artificial dyeing shall be added. Once it is woven it shall be

soaked in the boiling water to wash away impurities. Shawls and Sanna

Kamblis are made by taking thin threads using good quality wool. Generally

rich and sophisticated people buy and use these kamblis. Gadduge Dhavali is a

kambli woven by using the white coloured wool. Dhavali means white. It is

used as a mat for religious heads to sit on special occasions and ceremonies. It

is also used to wrap the materials used while worshipping the diety. Kariya

Kanthe is a triangular woolen cloth, the sacred one, used to spread on the diety

of Sri.Revanasiddheshwara, the diety of weavers, especially kurubas. Kanthe

means the cloth used at the time of worship of God. This is generally woven

by religious heads of kurubas called Odeyars, that too by sitting in the

sanctum-sanctorum of Revanasiddheshwara Temple.'^

Francis Buchanan (1807) has given a very long account of kambli,

sheep, wool and shepherds in his book "Journey from Madras through the

countries of Mysore, Canara and Malbar". There he has described the kamblis

as the staple commodity of Chitradurga and Davangere regions, which in their

fabric greatly resemble English Comblets. During that time, they were of four

cubits broad, by twelve long, and formed a piece of dress or a part of bedding

which the natives of Kamataka have Almost universally been using. They were

not dyed but were of natural colour of the wool, which in the finer ones was

almost always a good black. The blanket made from the wool of first shearing

of sheep was used to be costlier to those of other type of woolen blankets. The

16. University of Mysore, 1971, Op.cit.P.533-34

54

finest were used to be made for the common sale on order by the buyer and

those with other quality, were used to be brought to weekly markets for sale to

merchants for ready money.'^

The process of kambli weaving is long and simple. Before the sheep are

shorn, they are washed well. After the wool is being shorn it would be teased

with fingers, beaten with a bow like cotton, and formed into bundles for

spinning. This operation would be performed by both men and women partly

in the small Hindu Cotton Wheel and partly with the distaff. Some tamarinds

seeds would be bruised; and often having been infused for a night in cold

water, would be boiled to prepare the starch. The thread when about to be put

into the loom shall be sprinkled with the cold starch decoction. The loom is of

a same simple structure with that usual in India. The new made blanket shall

be washed by beating it on a stone; and when dried would be fit for sale. From

this account of the process it will be evident that the great price of the finer

kinds is owing to the great trouble required in selecting wool sufficiently fine, 1 H

the quantity of which in any one fleece is very small.

3.4 THE SHEEP

The National Commission on agriculture has stressed that animal

husbandry in general and development of sheep in particular, would certainly

make an impact on rural poverty and can be a major act of social change

through better employment and income opportunities to the rural poor and by

diversifying agriculture.*'

The domestication of animals was carried out during Neolithic times

along with the cultivation of cereals. First goats and sheep, second cattle and

17. Francis Buchanan, 1807, op. cit. P.330 18. S.U.Kamath, 1982, Op.cit.P.331 19. Ibid. P.332

55

pigs, and finally, the other animals subh as horse and asses were domesticated.

There are many wild verities of sheep (ovis Oriental is Vgnci) in the mountains

from Afganisthan to America and they are probably the ancestors of the

domesticated sheep. Though sheep were first domesticated in the mountains of

Iran, Turkeshthan, and Baluchisthan, we find them early in the history, and

they served as usual purpose in the economies of Mesopotamians and northern

Indian civilizations. They provided milk, meat and clothing for the inhabitants

of cold north (Randhawa 1980).^"

The productivity of Indian sheep is low, yet considering the nutritional

and physical environmental conditions under which they are reared, it can not

be considered inefficient. Major reasons for low productivity are inadequate

grazing resources, disease problems and serious lack of organized efforts for

genetic improvements.^*

Sheep rearing continues to be an occupation having low status in

society. It is primarily in the hands of poor, landless or small and marginal

farmers who graze their sheep on natural vegetation and crop stubbles

supplemented by tree lopping. Indian sheep breed throughout the year. Their

mortality is very high of the bacterial and viral diseases. Pneumonia in various

forms; sheep-fox, enterotoxaemia and anthrax are common and result in high

adapted to the harsh climate, long migration and lack of vegetation and

drinking water.

Sheep are the object of great importance and are the kind called 'kuri' in

the Kamnada language. They are kept by two castes, the Kurubaru and

Goalaru who are sometimes cultivators and possess the flocks each containing

from five to about one hundred and fifty sheep. All the shepherds

20. Planning Commission of India, Report on wool and Textiles, 2003, Ch-l,P-l 21.Ibid.P-2 22. Ibid. P-3 8c 4

56

have, besides some cows, buffaloes and 'Macays' (long legged goats). But the

sheep form the chief part of their stock. They are pastured in waste places.

Government appoints a Hulibandu, or grass renter to whom each family pays a

certain rent fixed based on their property. If any man's flock, however, should

increase much above the number originally belonging to the family the

Hulibandu* he might increase the |tax. The office of Hulibandu is not

hereditary; but there are certain families of shepherds hereditarily annexed to

the Hulibandu of each district. These families were to pay the rent to this grass

renter. They are at liberty to pasture their flock wherever they please, even into

the territories of a different sovereign, thus a shepherd of one region may feed

his flocks in the other region; but he pays the rent to Hulibandu}^

The sheep are generally not provided with extra fodder other than what

they can graze in pastures which are open uncultivated lands containing a few

scattered bushes. These are called Adavi, or forests. In the rainy season, the

sheep at night are driven into folds made of prink bushes. In the dry season,

they are at night confined on the arable lands with an intention to manure them.

As a reward, the cultivator gives food grains or money to the shepherds. Four

rams are reckoned sufficient for a hundred ewes, owing to temperate nature of

climate, the females breed at all seasons indifferently, and they bear six months

in the womb. They have their first lamb at eighteen months old and breed once

a year, but rarely have twins. After bearing three lambs, the ewe would be

sold. If allowed to live, she would bread five times, but afterwards she would

not be saleable. Sheep are never fattened for market, further than can be done

by pasture, with which in India, a sheep seldom becomes fat. But the meat of

23. Francis Buchanan, 1807, op.cit.P-333 * Hulibandu means the grass renter appointed by the Government or Local Panchayet.

57

Those here is better than anywhere else in India, where the animal has not been

stall-fed. The males, except those intended for breading, are sold by the

shepherds when under two years of age. At a year old, the best males are

selected for breeding, the others are c^strated. '* The flock, containing, young

and old, 500 sheep and 500 goats, requires four men and four dogs. These are

able to drive away small animals of the feline kind, but have no arms that

would enable them to attack the tiger or leopard. In recent years the sheep

are reared for market requirements basically for mutton purpose.

Sheep development activity was undertaken as early as the early 19

century by the East India Company, which imported exotic breeds for cross

breeding with the indigenous breeds. Subsequently, with the establishment of

the Indian Council of Agricultural Research, research and development

programs were taken up on a regional basis; they included selective breeding

within the indigenous breeds and cross breeding them with exotic fine wool

breeds, and covered almost all the important sheep rearing States. Major

emphasis was however initiated during Five Year Plans. During the third-plan,

a large number of sheep and wool extension centers were established, and a

wool grading and marketing program was initiated in Rajasthan. In 1962,

realizing the importance of sheep in agrarian economy, the central Government

established Central Sheep and Wool Research Institute (CSWRI) and its

regional stations, and United Nations Development Project (UNDP) and the

Government of India (GOI) project, to undertake fundamental research in

sheep production and wool utilization and to provide Post - Graduate training

in sheep and wool sciences. During the fourth plan, a large sheep-breeding

farm was established in collaboration with the Australian Government, at

Hissar, for pure breeding corriedale sheep. Seven more such farms have been

established in Jammu and Kashmir, Uttar—Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Bihar,

24. Ibid.P-335 25. Ibid.

58

Andhra Pradesh and Kamataka to produce exotic pre-bred or crossbred rams.

A number of sheep development programs were undertaken under specialized

programs such as Drought Prone Area Project (DPAP), Small Farmer (SF),

Marginal Farmer (MF), and agricultural labourer schemes.

Till the end of First Five Year Plan, sheep development programs were

not given due importance. It was only from second Five Year Plan onwards

the Government of India and the state Governments have realized the urgency

and need for paying greater attention for agricultural production by providing

adequate funds, for production of grains, milk and meat, so that the gap in the

nutritional deficiency is reduced to some extent.

Kamataka has been one of the main States in the country known for

sheep rearing from ancient time. The climate and natural vegetation of plain

land of the State have favoured this occupation. It has four breeds of sheep,

namely, Bellary, Deccan, Hassan and Bandur. The first three are for medium

wool and the last for its mutton. Two exotic breeds Rambouillet and corridale

have been introduced in the herds of different farms.

The State is very favourably placed in the sheep development

programme among southern estates, especially in respect of the type of sheep

the State possess. It has considerable scope for developing sheep husbandry in

the light of its resource potentialities. It can be carried out in arid and semi-arid

lands with low rainfall and frequent visitation of droughts. The state has vast

tracts of low rainfall and drought affected lands suited for sheep development.

26. Planning Commission of India, 2003, bp cit.P-2 to 6. 27. S.U.Kamath, 1982, Op.cit.P-724.

59

With a sheep population of 45.36 million (1977 census), Kamataka

occupies the 4 place in the country, the first being Rajasthan. Over a period

of two decades, the sheep population has been increased from 42 million to 46

million in 1997. *

Table-3.5 presents information about district and division wise

distribution of sheep of different breeds, according to the Livestock census of

1997. Tumkur, Belgaum and Kolar districts have larger population of sheep in

the state with 985,863, 876,223 and 725,182 respectively. Chitradurga and

Bangalore (Rural) stand next. Division wise, Bangalore division stands first

with 3,345,326 and Mysore the last with 974,776 sheep. The number of exotic

and cross breed sheep is very meager and the percentage is 0.2%. It raises the

doubt that whether efforts made in this direction by various institutional

agencies are in vain? The total number of exotic breed are 7,241 and cross

breed are 1, 89,302 only.

28. Ibid.

60

Table-3.5

District Wise Distribution of Sheep Population in Karnataka

SI. No.

1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9

10 11 12 13 14

Name of the District

2 Bangalore Bangalore I Chitradurga Davangere Kolar Shivmoga Tumkur Bangalore Division Belagavi Bijapur Bagalakot Dharwad Gadag Haveri Uttara Kannada

II Belagavi Division 15 16 17 18 19

I 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

Beilary Bidar Gulbarga Raichiir Koppal I Gulbarga Division Chikkamangalur Dakshina Kannada Udupi Hassan Kodagii Mandya Mysore Chamarajpet V Mysore Division

STATE

Livestock census 1997

Sheep

Indigenous

4 108317 587983 712796 228631 689035

17596 886808

3231166 865695 251789 374900 46822

201155 245948

2012 1988321 515364 71460

485132 373360 186897

1632213 73621

95 79

193515 671

351638 212296 122920 954835

7806535

Exotic

5 1062 545 117 85

1001 431 100

3341

19 63

157 52

291 144

1815

734 316

3009 33

265 19 91 48

144 600

7241

Cross Bread

6 15292 34683

3520 12611 35146

612 8955

110819 10528 2357 3166 3872 5023 2193 438

27577 13612 5641 3054 4559 4699

31565 753 183 103

1806 140

U310 2993 2053

19341 189302

Total

7 124671 623211 716433 241327 725182

18639 895863

3345326 876223 254165 378129

50694 206335 248193

2450 2016189

529120 78916

488186 378653 191912

1666787 74407

278 182

195586 830

363039 215337 125117 974776

8003078

Source: Karnataka at a Glance 2001-02, Directorate of Economics and Statistics, Bangalore.

iril'i Kuvemou UrK-

jnana Sa iyc

61

3.5 THE WOOL

The sheep wool is an important natural fiber and its use in textile

manufacture need not be over emphasized. India's production of wool is about

7000 tones annually. Our Pashmina (=cashmere) is comparable to Russian

Pashmina in quality. Its production is confined to Jammu & Kashmir,

Himachal Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh, where breeds producing fine Pashmina

fibers are found. The production of Pashmina and Shatoosh/Mohair shawls

from wild and domesticated sheep is already a very lucrative and export

oriented industry. Bharat Merino is a fine sheep breed evolved indigenously

by cross breeding at Central Sheep and Wool Research Institute (CSWRI) in

Rajasthan. These sheep comprise 75 percent exotic inheritance (Rambouileet

and Merino) and 25 percent indigenous content through wool breeds, viz.,

Jaisalmeri, Nali, Malpura and Chokla. The following table gives information

about the sheep wool produced in India from 1994-95 to 2000-2001.^'

Year Production of wool (Million Kgs)

1994-95 40.6 1995-96 41.4 1996-97 43.3 1997-98 44.6 1998-99 45.5 1999-2000(Estimate) 46.5 2000-2001 (Estimate) 47.6

Kamataka with its vast rainfall tract, and drought-affected lands, is well

suited for developing sheep industry. Therefore, different agencies with

various schemes are active over the various sheep concentrated areas in the

State. In Mandya, Mysore, Kolar and Bangalore districts there are selective

breeding centers to improve Bandur sheep and the others for dual purpose, both

for wool and meat, where there are wooly types of sheep in the State.

Kamataka occupies the 10' place in wool production per sheep. The Wool

production per sheep is about 500 grams which is far below the all India

29. Chandra S., (2002), "Sheep and Goat-Anticipating a Spurt in International Trade", The Hindu Survey of Indian Agriculture -2002, P. 155

62

average of 832 grams.^" As per the live stock Census of 2001, the yield of wool

production per sheep has been increased to 731 grams per sheep in the year

1999-2000. The total number of sheep sheared during this year was 7,442,998

and total wool production was 5441 tonnes. It is evident from the table that the

production of wool in the State has not been regular. The percentage of

variation of production over previous year varies almost ever year. It may be

attributed to, largely, the weather conditions, rainfall and vegetation including

disease. However, the wool yield per sheep has been gradually increased

though not constantly. Table-3.6 presents information relating to the wool

production in the state in different years from 1976-77 to 1999-2000.

Table -3.6 Estimated Wool Production in Karnataka For the Years from

1976-77 to 1999-2000

Year

1977-78 1978-79 1979-80 1980-81 1981-82 1982-83 1983-84 1984-85 1985-86 1986-87 1988-89 1990-91 1991-92 1992-93 1993-94 1994-95 1995-96 1996-97 1997-98 1998-99

1999-2000

Wool Yield per sheep (in grams)

421 446 494 535 575 620 655 695 700 712 719 720 726 723 723 726 726 740 728 736 731

Production of wool (in tones)

1920 2023 2245 2437 2634 2846 3013 3203 3414 3565 3701 3808 3892 3926 3978 4046 4098 4229 4691 5205 5441

% variation over the previous year

Nil 5.36 10.97 8.55 8.08 8.05 5.87 6.31 2.68 4.39 1.98 1.93 2.21 0.87 1.32 1.71 1.29 3.20 10.92 10.96 4.53

Soruce: Report on Integrated Sample Survey for Estimation of Production of Milk, Egg, Wool and Meat for the year 1999-2000. Directorate of Animal Husbandry in Karnataka, P.69

30. S.U.Kamath, 1982, Op.cit.P-474

63

The Fleece is shorn twice a year. The first fleece is taken when the

sheep is about six months old, and is by far finest in quality. From this alone

can kamblis of any considerable fineness, be made. Every successive fleece

becomes worse and worse, and does not increase in quality. The sheep are

never smeared. They are commonly black; and the deeper this colour is the

more valuable the wool is reckoned. The finer blankets are all an excellent

native black, without dye.

3.6 THE WOOL WEAVERS CALLED KURUBAS

Hand weaving of wool in Kamataka is almost the occupation^^he

Kurubas by caste. The Rural Artisan Survey Report-1994 of Government of

Kamataka records that all households of woolen handloom industry in

Kamataka in 1994 are belong to the Hindu Religion and kuruba caste.

Agriculture and sheep rearing are the main occupations of this community,

besides weaving kamblis.

The Kumbas are the traditional shepherds and blanket weavers. Many

have taken to agriculture in recent years. They are divided into three

endogamous divisions; Halukurubas, Ande Kurubas and Kambli Kurubas.

Each of the three divisions is fiirther divided into several exogamous sects

named after plants, trees, etc., which are of totemic nature. Many profess

shivism but their common diety is Beeradevaru. A section of Kumbas have

priest called Odeyars who are strictly vegetarians. Even women including a

widow from an odeyar family, can officiate as a priest. A widowed

Oderamma* continues to decorate herself with Tilaka, Bangles and flowers.

Dollu Kunita, in honour of Beeradevaru is their folk

31. Francis Buchanan, 1807, Op.cit.P-335 *Oderamma means a widow from an Odeyer family

64

dance.The caste is well organized, though being divided territorially, the head

of each section being known as Gowda. Divorce and widow marriage are

allowed among them. The dead are usually harried. In Belgaum area the

Marathi speaking section is called Dhanagar and they worship Khandoba

(Mailara Martanda). Halumatha is another name for Kurubas. The

Bettakuruba, Jenu Kuruba and Kadukurubas are different from the above

kurubas. These are essentially hunters living in the forest areas of Kodagu

district and its border areas . ^

Francis Buchanan (1807) has given a detailed account of social,

economic and cultural background of the members this community of whom he

had interviewed during his journey in the Mysore region. He records that the

Kurubaru or in the singular number Curuba, were a caste living in the different

parts of Mysore regions and were of Kamataka descent. Some of them have

also now settled on the banks of upper part of the Krishna River in the Maratha

dominions. In this region, they confine themselves entirely to the proper duties

of their caste, which are to rear sheep and to work up wool into blankets. They

can eat with other types of Kurubaru but do not intermarry with them. They

are allowed plurality of wives and their daughters would be marriageable after

the age of puberty. They eat sheep, fish, venison, and fowls. They hold pork to

be an abomination and look upon the eating of flesh of oxen or of buffaloes as

a dreadful sin. They are allowed to drink spirituous liquors. When a Kuruba

dies, his property, as is usual with that of all Hindus in Kamataka is divided

equally among his sons; and his wives and daughters are left entirely at the

discretion of the males of his family". ^

32. S.U.Kamath, 1982,Op.cit.P-474 33. Francis Buchanan, 1807, Op.cit.P-336-37

65

The Deities whom this caste considers as their objects of worship are

Beeredevaru, and his sister Mayava. Beeredevaru is, as they say, the same

with Ishwara, and resides in Kailasa or the haven they believe that the bad

people would be punished in Naraka, or the hell by suffering various low

transmigrations. These deities do not receive bloody sacrifices but are

worshiped by offerings of fruits and flowers. The priests (Pujars) at these

temples are from the same caste called 'Goravaru' and their office is

hereditary. They go round different regions distributing consecrated powder of

turmeric, and receiving charity. Besides worshiping the deities they offer

sacrifices to some of the destructive spirits. They believe that these spirits

would be expelled by prayer and addressed to the deities of the caste. At the

principal ceremonies such as marriages, building a new house or the like, they

approach the village astrologer who is a Brahman. He attends the ceremony,

and having read the prayers proper on the occasion, receives the accustomed

due. ^

Most of the traditions, customs and the way of life recorded by Francis

Buchanan in 1807 are found in practice even today in the rural areas of

Kamataka, of course, with few exceptions with regard to those groups who are

exposed to the modem education and city life.

The Karnataka Backward Class Commission (1990) has stated in its

report that the total population of kuruba caste in the State was 6.3% of the

total population in the State. The percentage of persons of this caste employed

in A and B category of employment in the state is 2.9% of total employment of

this category, 2.9% of C category and 4.9% of D group of employees. The

political accessability of M.L.C's 2.9% M.P's 7.1% and in Zilla panchayath

institufion3.0%.^^

34. Ibid.24. 35. Justice Venkataswamy, Chairman, 1990. Karnataka Backward Class

Commission Report -1990, Vols - 1 & 2

66

3.7 INSTITUTIONAL AGENCIES

Efforts have been made in the past and are being initiated at present, by

both the Central and State Governments, jointly and severally, to develop the

sheep and sheep products, keeping in view of their importance in the rural

development of the country in general and Kamataka State in particular.

Besides the Government Departments, many institutions and organizations

have been established to plan, execute, supervise and evaluate various schemes

to develop the sheep, wool and woolen industry with a special emphasis on the

handloom sector. The following are the important ones among these

institutions.

i. THE CENTRAL WOOL DEVELOPMENT BOARD (CWDB)

The Government of India, under its Ministry of Textiles constituted the

Central Wool Development Board, with its Head Quarters at Jodhpur

(Rajasthan) in 1987, to promote growth and development of wool and woolen

through various activities like market intelligence, marketing of wool and

woolens, price stabilization, standardization of wool and woolen products and

quality control,. The Board has been functioning since the year 1989 and was

registered as a society under the Societies Registration Act of Rajasthan in

1996. *

It was reconstituted under the leadership of the Union Minister for

Textiles on 26* June, 2001. The activities of the Board are supported by grant-

in-aid by the Ministry of Textiles, given through and regulated according to the

Five years and Annual Plans. The Board has administered the following

schemes for the development of woolen industry with the help of State

Governments/Bodies or through Non-Government Organizations (NGO's) on

the pattern of Ninth Plan during the year 2002-03.

36. Planning Commission of India, Annual Report-2002-03, on woolen and Textile Industry, Ch.VII, P.66.

67

I. Improvement of quality and yield of wool.

II. Human Resources Development Programs.

III. Development of special Fiber.

IV. Promotional Activities.

V. UNDP Amgora Wool Development Project.

The Integrated Sheep and Wool Development Project covers the aspects

of breed improvement, health coverage, product development, marketing

assistance, and training to sheep breeders in sheep husbandry and productivity.

The program has been extended to all major wool producing states and is being

implemented through Animal Husbandry Department/Sheep and Wool

Marketing Boards or other state Government Organisations. Machine shearing

cum-training project has been in operation since 1993-94 for popularizing

machine shearing through demonstration and in the process for training sheep

breeds to take it up as an economically viable activity. Through wool Testing

Centre, the Board has been providing wool testing facilities to wool procurers,

wool merchants, and providing R & D facilities to the woolen sector in nearby

areas. Through Industrial Service Centre, the Board provides post loom testing

facilities to the woolen industry.

The Board has established a weaving and Designing Training Centre

with a view to training weavers and dyers engaged in woolen handloom in rural

areas. As it was felt that human resource development aspect was neglected in

this industry, the Board identified the following areas for undertaking training

programs in the country as well as abroad in collaboration with other wool

producing countries, (i) Farm management, (ii) Sheep shearing, (iii) Testing

and report writing, (iv) Wool marketing, (v) Processing of wool and woolen

products and (vi) Quality control. It has established ten functionary centers in

main wool markets of different states for establishing market intelligence

network.

68

It has also taken up a program for organizing woolen expose to promote

sale of wool and woolen products and to provide better marketing facilities to

weavers and spinners.^^

ii. THE KARNATAKA SHEEP AND SHEEP PRODUCT

DEVELOPMENT BOARD(KS & SPDB)

The Kamataka Sheep and Sheep Products Development Board came

into existence as a statutory body in the year 1975. The main object of

establishing this Board was for speedy and effective implementation of sheep

development programe in the State and to perform such other functions as the

State Government may take up. The following are the functions and activities

related to the sheep and its products carried out by the Board.

a) To render such assistance as may be necessary to carry on activities

relating to the sheep and its by-products.

b) To organize and aid co-operative societies for the purpose of promoting

the activities of sheep development.

c) To arrange for the supply of tools, implements, equipments, required for

sheep development.

d) To conduct training courses to impart knowledge and skill.

e) To promote the development activities relating to sheep, wool, meat and

other allied matters.

f) To arrange for publicity to popularize the product of sheep by opening

stores, shops, emporia or by exhibitions.

g) To undertake collect statistics and conduct research work to improve the

quality and quantity of wool and meat.

h) To maintain or assist in the maintenance of institutions for the

development of sheep and sheep products,

i) To organize shearing, processing and marketing of wool; to promote

consumption of wool and meat.

37. IbidP.67-68.

69

Activities of the Board at present include the heahh coverage;

developing of sheep breeding stations; organization and establishment of sheep

and wool producers co-operative societies; establishment of centers for

collection, processing and distribution of wool; providing rams to farmers at

subsidized prices; training-extension-education; and strengthening of

administration . *

iii. SHEEP BREEDERS ASSOCIATION

It was started earlier than the First-Five -Year Plan with the following

objectives:

a) To provide shearing facility to the flock owner and to give on the

spot marketing facilities for the wool.

b) To enroll the flock owners and persons interested or engaged in wool

industry as members.

c) To manufacture woolen goods such as kamblis, druggets, dining

mats and caps etc.

d) To provide extension services in the form of sheep dipping, dosing

vaccination and treatments for day-to-day ailments in sheep.

e) Educating flock owners to raise white fleeced flocks to get better

value for wool.

f) To assist the Department of Animal Husbandry in their endeavor to

upgrade the efficiency of local staff for enhancing the quality and

quantity of wool.

g) To work as a coordinating agency between members and

Government Agencies for the benefit of sheep breeders.

At present eleven Sheep Breeders Associations are functioning in the

State and they are located in the following places; Kolar, Mysore,

Doddaballapur, Ramanagaram, Nagamangala, Krishnarajpet, Tumkur,

Chitradurga, Channarayapatna, Ranebennur and Belgaum. These Associations

38..U.Kamath, 1982, Opp.cit.729-30

70

are given the Government assistance in the form of aid by providing staff and

technical officers for their effective functioning.^'

iv. SHEEP FARMS

There are five Sheep Breeding Farms in the State; Bandur Sheep

Breeding Farm (Dhangur village in Malavalli Taluk), Large Scale Breeding

Farm (Challakere), Suttatti Sheep Breeding Station (Athani Taluk) Anagawadi

Sheep Breeding Station (Bijapur District)., Guttal Sheep Breeding

Station(Ranebennur Taluk).

The selective breeding of Bandur sheep is undertaken at Dhangur camp

where the demand for rams is more than the production. The large-scale

breeding farm at Challakere has undertaken the artificial insemination among

sheep, for the first time in the State, under Australian Collaboration since 1972.

The erstwhile Bombay Government started Suttatti Farm during 1947, to

evolving suitable strain of sheep by cross breeding Deccani ewes with the

exotic rams. It supplies its production to the sheep and wool department

schemes. Anagawadi Station was started in 1942 by the Bombay Government

to improve wool-producing capacity of Deccani sheep through selective

breeding. Now cross breeding has been taken up to produce 25 percent breed

using 50 percent corriudale cross rams. The erstwhile Bombay Government

also started Guttal Sheep breeding station, with an era of 295 acres in 1947, to

evolving a new strain of sheep yielding finer wool with the heavier fleece

suited for local conditions, by cross breeding local Deccani with Marino and

Rainbouillet rams.

V. WOOL ANALYSIS LABORATORY

The Wool Analysis Laboratory, Ranebennur was established during

1960-61 with a view to assess the improvement in the wool quality affected

through breeding sheep under Sheep and Wool Development Scheme and

39. Ibid.P.725

71

analysis of wool samples received from different parts of the State for several

attributes of wool has been done. The functions of this center are; (1)

Evaluation of data in research and extension fields in order to assess the

progress made and also to serve as a guide for further planning, (2) Testing

the quality of wool in rural areas and enabling the selection of better quality

sheep as foundation stock, (3) Judging the extent of improvement effected from

generation to generation as a result of breeding trials undertaken in village

blocks and (4) Processing the wool for blending, carding, combing and

spinning to the count required both on wool processing plant and manpowered

charakas. One graduate assistant trained in wool analysis is attached to this

with a laboratory assistant. I'he laboratory has one wool utilization centre

serving as demonstration centre where different kinds of wool are used to

manufacture varieties of finished goods such as rough blankets, kamblis,

carpets, belts and attractive items that the farmers can learn and manufacture.'**

vi. WOOLEN APEX SOCIETY

The Kamataka State Woolen Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Society

Ltd., which was registered in 1956, is today serving the needs of its 150

members' societies with a share capital of Rs.21.44 lakhs, bulk of which has

come as a Government share. The Khadi and Village Industries Commission,

besides giving rebates on its sales of kamblis to estates has also made available

an interest free loan of Rs.3 lakhs for stocking kamblis. The society has also

drawn cash credit accommodation of Rs.6 lakhs from the state co-operative

Apex Bank. More than 50 percent of kamblis are supplied to plantations and

co-operative bodies and the rest is sold through its seven sales deposits located

at Madakeri, Chikkamagalur, Sagar, Sirsi, Belgaum, Challakere and

Pandavapura. The annual sales have been in the order of Rs.28.81 lakhs.""

40. Ibid.P.726 41. Ibid.P.880

72

vii. GRAMA BHARATHI APEX FEDERATION

The Grama Bharathi Khadi and Village Industries Co-operative

Marketing Federation of Kamataka Ltd., was started in 1974. This Federation

has, among its objectives organizing of production, processing and marketing

of the products of khadi and village industries either directly or through the

member institutions. It has nine branches in places of Bangalore, Kadur,

Mysore, Tiptur, K.R.Nagar, Mandya, Kolar and Gadag. It also running

"Saranjam Karyalaya", a workshop to manufacture tools and equipments like

improved looms, power operated gana etc.

viii. KARNATAKA KHADI GRAMODYOG SAMYUKTA SANGHA

Kamataka Khadi Gramodyoga Samuktha Sangh (Federation), Bengeri,

near Hubli, is the state level apex body with 28 primary Khadi and village

industries institutions as members. It is equipped with reginal dye house,

measuring plant, workshop for manufacture of charakas and looms. The Sangh

undertakes publication of "Khadi Jagat", a Kannada montly. It also runs

"Khadi and Gramodyoga Vidyalaya(Textile Chemistry), which is the one of its

kind in the country, training about 16 candidates every year in dyeing and

printing technique.

ix. KARNATAKA HANDLOOM DEVELOPMENT

CORPORATION (KHDC)

Kamataka Handloom Development Corporation implements various

Govemment schemes to provide infrastructural, financial, marketing, raw

material, technological support to artisans in handloom industry.'*^ It provides

infrastructural support by providing living cum-work sheds and work-sheds

schemes have been introduced. Both central and state Governments are equally

contributing the funds to the scheme. Pre-loom and post loom processing

42. Govemment of Kamataka, Draft Eight Five Year Plan, 1992-97 and Annual plan 1992-93, Bangalore; Planning Department Vol./I,P.XIII, C-19-22.

73

Facilities are provided to handloom weavers with a view to increase

productivity by reducing the preparation time. It allows rebate on sale of

handloom cloth and provides market assistance. Apex societies are provided

with funds for orgainising publicity and propaganda for their products through

media such as News Papers, All India Radio and Doordarshan."*^

The weavers members of KHDC are being assisted modernized looms

and accessories with 1/3 subsidy and 2/3 loan component. The expenditure is

being equally shared by central and state Governments.'*'* An institute for

advanced training for handloom weavers is being set up at Hubli, Dharwar

District and Banahatti, Bijapur district, in order to up grade the skills of the

weavers for taking up new lines of production, so that their dependency on

government schemes for livelihood will be minimized. With a view to impart

advance training, State Government is also sponsoring 15 candidates every

year to Indian Institute of Handloom Technology, Salem, to undergo training

for a period of five years. Stipend and other inputs like books are also given.'*^

X. KARNATAKA STATE KHADI AND VILLAGE INDUSTRIES

BOARD (KVIB)

The functions of the Board are to organize, develop and regulate khadi

and village industries in the State, render financial, technical and other

necessary assistance for developing khadi and village industries in rural areas.

With its programmes, the Board is expected to tackle the problem of

unemployment in rural areas and raise the standard of living of rural artisans.

Besides covering khadi Industries in all the districts, the Board has been

extending financial assistance to village industries such as, village oil industry,

43. Ibid, C-2,4,68 44. Ibid,C 1-3 45. Ibid.

74

village leather industry, carpentry, black smithy, processing of cereals and

pulses, cottage mat weaving, lime industry, pottery etc. for intensive

development in view of potentialities existing for industries in the State. The

Regional Training Centers have been proposed for upgrading the skills of

artisans and to impart training to the office bearers of the artisan Co-operative

Societies/Institutions. To start with, one Regional Institute is set up in Bijapur.

The Board is also envisaging establishing electronic industries in rural areas

wherever possible. The Board is obtaining assistance from khadi and village

industries commission.'*

xi. WOOL WEAVERS CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETIES

Kamataka has made pioneering experiments in various fields of co­

operation such as, Drganizing societies for school boys', marketing and

financing of cattle-breeding societies, industrial co-operatives etc. It has taken

a leading part in the development of co-operative movement in Bombay and

Karantaka. The Kanginhal Rural Co-operative Credit Society was registered

on 8' May 1905, at Kanginal village in Gadag Taluk of Dharwar district. It

was the first one to register under the co-operative societies Act 1905, next

followed by the urban co-operative credit society at Betageri in the same Gadag

Taluk on 18 " October 1905. There were 18 co-operative societies in the state

in the year 1905-06, with 800 members and working capital of Rs.30,333.'*^

Among several types of co-operatives in the state, wool weavers' co­

operative societies are important from the viewpoint of advancing looms

towards the working capital of weavers, supplying of improved tools and

implements, marketing and technical assistance to weavers. During 1999-2000

the total number of weavers co-operative societies in the state were 552,

including textile weavers' co-operative societies. The spatial (district wise)

dispersal of these societies in the state area: Bangalore Rural and Urban -02,

46. Ibid. C-23-24 47. K.N.Naik, 1955, "Co-operative movement in Bombay Karnataka",

Karnataka Dharshana, op-cit.P.485.

75

Tumkur-15, Chitradurga-42, Davangere-02, Mysore-13, Hassan-04

chamarajanagar-01, Belgaum-01, Bijapur-05, Haveri-08, Bagalkot-07, Bidar-

18, Bellary-05. In other words, the total number is 181 out of 552, the

remaining 371 are textile weavers co-operative societies. The total number of

members in these societies during 1997-2000 were 1,27,000 with share capital

of Rs.l 123-30 lakhs of which Government's share is 569.58 lakhs. The

amount of deposits mobilized by these societies during the same year is

Rs.l 102379 lakhs with loans advanced Rs.282.75 lakhs. Employment

provided was 1049 persons in all."**

3.8 CONCLUSION

Thus, the information presented and the discussion had in this chapter

gives a brief picture about the historical and the present perspective of the hand

weaving of wool in India in general and in the state of Kamataka in particular.

It is understood from this that the woolen handloom industry is an important

rural industry that has been in existence since ages providing job opportunities

to large number of people in rural areas and having an industrial and

institutional base for further development. It is also understood that India is

well endowed with proper physical and climatic conditions for the development

of sheep and sheep products which would in turn provide a strong base for the

rural traditional industry like woolen handloom industry in Kamataka and

India.

48. Department of Co-operation, Government of Kamataka 2000, Karnataka at Glance 1999-2000, (Compiled).

•rS£ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^M

7^ /^ 7^ 7^ 7^ in

76