h t 0 r a l r s p e c t i v e - archaeology...

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ST BARNABAS 1 CHAPEL ARCHAEOLOGY COMPONENT AND H I S T 0 R I C A L P E R S P E C T I V E FOR: REX GLENCROSS-GRANT, CONSULTING CIVIL ENGINEER and the FRIENDS OF ST BARNABAS', NORFOLK ISLAND BY: DR ROBERT V J VARMAN, ARCHAEOLOGIST (HERITAGE CONSULTANT) 31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043) 882169 SEPTEMBER 1994

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Page 1: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

ST BARNABAS 1 CHAPEL

ARCHAEOLOGY COMPONENT

AND

H I S T 0 R I C A L P E R S P E C T I V E

FOR: REX GLENCROSS-GRANT, CONSULTING CIVIL ENGINEER and the FRIENDS OF ST BARNABAS', NORFOLK ISLAND

BY: DR ROBERT V J VARMAN, ARCHAEOLOGIST (HERITAGE CONSULTANT) 31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261

Phone and Fax (043) 882169

SEPTEMBER 1994

Page 2: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

C 0 N T E N T S

Introduction

Statement of Significance

Site Phasing

Phase 1, 1788-1814

Phase 2, 1814-1825

Phase 3, 1825-1856

Phase 4, 1856-1867

Phase 5, 1867-1875

Phase 6, 1875-1880

Phase 7, 1880-1919

Phase 8, 1920-1994

'

The Grounds, 1920-1994

Archaeological Guidelines

Appendix 1. Transcript selections of the Melanesian Mission deed, 1867. Registrar, Kingston, Norfolk Island Appendix 2. Extract from Survey of the First, Second and Third Settlements 1985, RVJ VARMAN. (For the

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Australian Heritage Commission, Canberra, A.C.T). 28 Appendix 3. Extract from Anne Lush's 'A Trip to Norfolk Island', 1881. The }ionthly Packet, vol. 31, part 185, pages 188 - 191. 35

Appendix 4. Notes on the Mission Cemetery 37

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Page 4: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

2

I N T R 0 D U C T I 0 N

I was approached by Ross Glencross-Grant, Consulting Civil Engineer, on behalf of the Friends of St Barnabas to provide guidelines on the archaeology of St Barnabas, as part of its ongoing management. Such guidelines for conservation management plans are considered essential by such conservation bodies as the National Trust of Australia. Archaeology applies to aboveground remains as it does to belowground remains, it is a useful tool to understanding the people of the past and the way things were done in the past, in way of explaining things of the present. It is not the scope of this section of the Glencross-Grant report to explain such things but rather to make sure that the resourse for such potential remains for future generations.

The Friends of St Barnabas and the Island in general are fortunate in that St Barnabas, as originally built, is remarkable for its integrity both in design and fabric. The fabric of the structure has been little altered and the appearance remains much the same as, in 1880 (no unsightly additions or alterations). The message of this section of the management plan is that St Barnabas' custodians should continue to make sure that it remains that way, so that its local and international significance never be diminished.

Buildings are no longer studied in isolation but are considered in the light of their present and past environment. St Barnabas' chapel historically belonged to a context known as the Melanesian Mission and should be interpreted in the light of that but not at the expense of its primary function as a place of Christian worship. Many elements of the Mission still survive and have the potential to enhance the chapel visually, or at least through interpretation for visitor and worshipper alike. It is recommended that custodians plan to preserve and enhance elements of the old Mission establishment and the grounds and plantings. Finance and time are scarce commodities though. The historical phasing in this section places the chapel in its wider context.

It is usual in such a document as this to provide a full archaeological analysis of fabric. Fortunately, the documentation of the chapel provides us with a solid background as to the origin of the building materials. In addition, the original fabric of the chapel has remained surprisingly intact and is therefore available for study at any time. However, important aspects of the fabric are covered in this section and the main part of the report.

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I became familiar with the chapel and the old Mission grounds during those years (1981-1990) I was in charge of Government archaeological work and later the Museums. I was involved in the initial assessment of the Burne-Jones windows and Kevin Little's first visit. Otherwise, my knowledge of the chapel and grounds was built up by making regular visits (even to worship there). I also included the chapel and grounds in a report on historic remains on Norfolk Island in 1985, commissioned by the Australian Heritage Commission.

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4

S T A T E M E N T 0 F S I G N I F I C A N C E

St Barnabas' chapel, as an example of ecclesiastic architecture, is outstanding for the quality of design, materials, furnishings and fittings. The design at the time of construction was seen as slightly eccentric but it represented some of the most modern architectural concepts of the time-- the use of constructional materials as an intrinsic part of decoration (Ruskin). The architect also referred to the exotic (Melanesia) by use of low extravagant eaves and the naturalistic design of the timber porch supports, yet stayed firmly within the (Revival) Gothic tradition.

The use of constructional location of the structure background of the staff, for such a remote part following illustration.

and decorational materials reflect both the (local stone and heavy timbers) and the supporters and students in of the English speaking

a way remarkable world. See the

Apart from the structure's significance in an ecclesiastical sense and specifically to the High Church tradition of the, formerly called, Church of England, the structure represents a radical change experienced in the Melanesian islands. The 'radical change' involved the westernization of the Melanesian islands. The fact that St Barnabas' was built as a consequence of the death incurred by a missionary bishop who unwittingly broke an unknown etiquette or was the subject of a random pay-back killing, indicates that the missionaries were at the very horizon of Melanesia's westernization; part of a many faceted global phenomenon of European expansion.

The chapel is of high significance to Norfolk Island in that it would be the most structurally rich building ever erected on the Island. It played an important role in the religious and cultural life of the Pitcairn/Norfolk Islanders during the Melanesian Mission phase by bringing in outside influences (though not always welcome). The trade in building materials with New Zealand for the Mission was extended to the Norfolk Islanders and Mission buildings were to exert a strong influence on many of the Island homes for many years.

In terms of its universal appeal, and apart from purely architectural elements, the church has stained glass windows and an organ of late ninteenth century world renown (the renown remains valid to this day).

St Barnabas' is of particularly almost completely intact, as it

high heritage value was originally built.

• J.n that it is

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6

David Hillard, in God's Gentlemen (1978) wrote o£ the chapel:

"It was a striking expression of that mid-Victorian High Anglicanism, whose essential ethos Patteson had secretly aspired to create in Melanesia". (p 75) •

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7

S I T E P H A S I N G

St Barnabas' chapel is sited on the higher part of sloping area, once occupied by the Melanesian Mission.

a flat, gently When the chapel

was first built, the scene would have been like one of a rural village; there were signs of industry and self-sufficiency everywhere to be seen. There were ornamental gardens and across the stream there was a burial ground. How time wroughts change.

The area has a previoys history, though not well understood, dating back to the First Settlement (1788-1814). The area must also have a prehistory, when Polynesian peoples may have hunted and even farmed around the area. Before the coming of man, the area might have resembled the pine-dominated, semi-tropical, rainforest still to be seen in pockets between Mission road and the lower slopes of Mount Pitt.

The chapel rests on eroded volcanic deposits originating from between 2.8 and 2.32 million years ago. These deposits overlay deep volcanic deposits of around 3 million years of age. The whole rests on the Norfolk Ridge, the foundations of which broke away from the original

• Australia/Antarctic part of Gondwanaland about 80 million years ago.

Phase 1 begins with European settlement.

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Page 12: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

9

• P H A S E 1

1 7 8 8 1 8 1 4 •

THE FIRST SETTLEMENT

The site of St Barnabas' chapel appears to have been taken up by a 1796-listed grant in the name of John (sic) Triffett, lot 107. The grant hedged between Joseph Hall's lot 108 and Fane Edge's lot 85. Lot 107 included a small section of land across the Anson Bay road (Bishop's Court area), the bulk of the lot stretching from the chapel area, northwards across the stream, swamp and old cemetery to the rise

above.

Lot 107 was downstream from the Queensborough (later Orange Vale). area was described as being part of

1790-established township called For administrative purposes the the 'District of Queensborough'.

The name of John Triffett appears to be a scribal error for James Triffett. James and Mary Higgins had two children, James and Thomas, between 1794 and 1808. They arrived in 1790 and left in 1808. Although listed in 1796, I have not been able to find a grant or lease document. As common at the time, it was probably a case of permissive occupancy. It is also likely that James had worked the land, or even lived on it before 1796, possibly soon after he arrived in 1790.

The most likely area for initial clearing, farming, hut building and perhaps the· sinking of a well, would have been on the site of the chapel and former Mission buildings. The site is ideal, a point not lost on Melanesian Mission staff when they first surveyed the area.

The site would have been abandoned by about 1808 when the Triffetts left the Island and the Island became depopulated. The site was likely used for grazing until the final abandonment in 1814. There is evidence that cleared areas reverted to native bush (vigorous noxious weeds such as African Olive, Lantana and Hawaiian Holly had not yet

reached the Island).

The Anson Bay road is a survival from the early 1790s •

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Page 14: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

'

11

P H A S E 2

1 8 1 4 1 8 2 5

All habitable buildings on the Island had been fired in 1814, domestic animals were slaughtered and salted or boiled down for fat and the Island was abandoned. This would have been a period of native regeneration, though some wild pigs and goats escaped capture. Dogs were left behind to rid the Island of the feral animals but the plan . evidently failed (at the cost of native creatures). •

P H A S E 3

1 8 2 5 1 8 5 6

T H E T H I R D S E T T L E H E N T •

During the Second Settlement, the area was downstream of Orange Vale and Major's Gully, both were areas of cultivation. The Arrowsmith map of 1842 (1840 survey) shows the area as cleared of vegetation, as were considerable portions of the future Melanesian Mission lands, (probably considered part of Orange Vale cultivation area). Most of the clearing had taken place during the 1790s and early 1810s and the regenerating native growth would have been easy to clear.

The site across the Anson Bay road from the chapel site was part of Burn's Farm (1830s/ 1840s) and a bridge, or culvert, had been constructed across the stream, lower down, in the location of the present one. The Avenue of Pines had been planted by the mid-1830s, a part of which survives to this day.

Not much else is known of the site during this phase •

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Page 16: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

< '

13

PHASE 4

1 8 5 6 - 1 8 6 7

EARLY THIRD SETTLEMENT

'

This was the period of initial settlement by the people of Pitcairn Island, the descendants of the Bounty Mutineers and the Tahitian women. This area was not alienated during the initial subdivision and distribution of land to the Pitcairn Islanders •

The land during this period would once again have rested, have been used for the public grazing of cattle and sheep several large flocks of sheep at the time).

though may (there were

• PHASE 5

• 1 8 6 7 - 1 8 7 5

EARLY MELANESIAN MISSION PERIOD

Sir John Young, Governor of New South Wales, granted 919 acres to the Melanesian Mission for £1,890/10/00 for a quitrent of 'one peppercorn if demanded' on August 27, 1867, according to a deed held in the Registrar's office at Kingston. Details vary, depending on the source documents used. The alienation of land to the Melanesian Mission was resented by many Pitcairn Islanders and appears to have been the cause of another group of Islanders to return to their old home.

Timber buildings were erected by 1867. Sufficient had been constructed by the end of the year to permit a school to be opened for 62 students. It appears that the Mission was founded in October 1866 with the arrival of the Reverend J. Palmer and sixteen boys. The old chapel and attached Bishop's house were among the first structures to have been built. The architecture and construction styles were similar to those used at the Mission in New Zealand. It seems more than likely that these early structures were prefabricated in New Zealand and the parts put together on the Island. The influence of the style and construction techniques of the Mission can be seen on some of the older houses surviving on Norfolk today. (In fact some of the actual Mission houses survive, as some were relocated after the close of the Mission).

The site was found to be suited for building, being fairly level having access to a stream of water. The well on the site may dated from the First Settlement (houses were often built on sites pre-existing wells). The site was also next to a major road.

and have with

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Page 18: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

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C II A P E L C 0 N S T R U C T I O.N P E R I 0 D • • •

• • ' • • •

• • •

' ' ... Th'e • inspiration, · funding and construction '•of the chapel was the· • response of the church faithful, friends, familY: and fellow churchmen . ' .. .. of Bishop John Coleridge Patteson, in relation to· his murder on . ~ . .. .

. · . September 20, 1871 at Nukapu; Reef ISlands • (near Santa Cruz). The I o

•. chaRel was not an isolated monument, •

other major memorials include: ' • • • • • . . '

• '

• •

'

0

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0 . .. "' _:_ f. life-sized effigy., Christ Church St Laurence, Sydney• --A wall tablet in the'chapel of Merton College, Oxford, U.K. '• --'.A.carved stone pulpit, depicting th~·martyrdom;.Ex~ter

• • . ' . , · U.K. ·'.·--··A (later) memorial'cr'oss, Nukapu, Reef'islands •.•

• • I o

• • •

Cathedral,

• •

• • • • •

• • • •

• • . . Money was raised for a new mission ship and' endowments established. •

Bi~hop Patteson's death resulted in the Pacific Island~~~ ' . .

Act, U.K., June 1872; and the instigation .of an. annual •

• Protection • •

Day ~of

• •• •. : .. Intercession for Missions by. the Anglic~n· church.· • • •• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

English gothic ·superimposed • •

• • The design of the chapel is a mixture of

• by ~ romantic concept of Melanesia, and , very much 'a product of the· l • .. •

time. The unusual portico, e;x:ternal brackets ~t 'the si.de windows· and

'

• '

th~; wide and low eaves were novel. The interior is con~tr'uctiona\ly • English in tradition ·but the finer parts of the aecor~ti9n .belong to•

• • • •• ' 111 '

• • •

Mel~nesia. The arrangement of the pews is .. a reference' to· Bishop • •

Patteson's vision for the Mission college and to his coll~giate days: · • • • • • • • • •

• • • The; bulk of the constructional building materials, ·'stone, pine 'arid mortar originate from the Island. Internal. lining timbers, mainly_

• • ka1,1ri, came from New Zealand. There are several originp for: other •

. ' • •

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• • 'decorative timbers used. See the s.tatement ·~f 'significance chart ~for • • •

• •

• t a ~ •

• •

• •

• • • • . -

• .. • • •

• • • • • •

• •

• •

the origin of other chapel elements. , · • •

• • • '

The actual construction of the chapel ·Pitcairn/ Norfolk Islanders, though.under

appea~s to have'been done by the direction of.stonemasoris • . •

and carpenters from the United Kingdom or New·~eala~d • • • • •

• • • Once completed and fittings added, the chapel change~ little in tne'

• " • all

outward form since 1880, when it was completed anft opened~ The only • • •

ch~nges have been of the usual kinds: shingles have been replaced a: couple of times and the present roofing (sheathing only)" is of~a· ·re~ent date: and the external timbers have received several'different ·

• • • paint surfaces. Internal decorations remain much the same except (or . . . th~ loss of altar hangings and furnishings (1919/1920). · · Much of the lead of the east end stained glass windows has.been renewed in recent

• • years •. • • • • • • • •

• • • • • •

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______________ ____,_ _____ ___]

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Page 20: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

17

P II A S E 7

1 8 8 0 - 1 9 1 9

This was a period of stability of change and unrest which was in 1919.

but by about 1912 there came a period to lead to the closing of the Mission

The dramatic turning point came with the appointment of Cecil John Wood as Bishop of Melanesia in 1912. Bishop Wood was the first Anglo-Catholic (not to be confused with High-Church) Bishop of Melanesia and accordingly, changes were made to worship and ritual. Bishop Wood was enthroned at St Barnabas' in August 1912, he was the first bishop to wear a-cope and mitre:

' ••• when the door of the chapel was thrown open to admit him ceremoniously as bishop, the Melanesian scholars lined up inside were "so amazed" by the unfamiliar sight of eposcopal magnificence that they "could not sing a word' of their hymn of welcome.' (Hilliard, 1978, p208).

-

There do not seem to have been any long-term physical changes made to the chapel as a result of Bishop Wood's liturgical modifications. The shingles of the roof were renewed at least once and the marble tiling had to be reset, at least in part, a few years before World War I. (NOTE: I came across a diary r~ference some years ago regarding the tiles but can not remember the source. The work was performed by Alexander Anderson, grandfather of 'Puss' and Jack Anderson).

It seems that Bishop Wood was not equal to the needs of the Mission during a time when crucial decisions needed to be made. The work of the Mission fell into serious decline. The decline was stemmed as a result of the mutiny of 18 of the clergymen (though not on Norfolk!), leading to the resignation of the Bishop. John Manwaring Steward was appointed bishop in September 1919.

Bishop Steward closed St Barnabas' college within two months of his appointment and the Mission headquarters were transferred to Siota, Solomon Islands. The Melanesian Mission on Norfolk was almost entirely dismantled. With some minor exceptions, only St Barnabas' chapel remained intact. Though 1920 witnessed the great transformation of the Mission's removal, it wasn't until 1924 when all the legal aspects of the Mission were finalized.

It should be added that the Mission buildings and grounds were always well maintained. An order book survives in the N.I. Museum listing tools, nails, paints, guttering etc., required by the Mission for its maintenance needs (some private orders included).

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Page 22: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

• '

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P H A S E 8 •

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1 9 2 0 1,994.'

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. • •

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• • The timber Mission w~re dispose~.of in several ways: • buildings of the • • ' ' . •

• •

• •

• • > •

0 •

• • • • • •

, --,Dismantled and shipped the.'solomon Islands).

• • • •

• • • to Mission. areas requiring housing (mainly .to •

• • • • • • • • • . '

• • • • • • • • • . '

• ,

• • • .. . . · -- Dismantled and the timber sold locally', For a considerable

• • ,

• • • • •

perce;ntage of the Packing Shed at 'Bennett's,' composed of • • . ,

• • Mission materials. •

• ' . • • • • • . ' . . . . ..

--Houses sold locally and shifted't? new sites •on the Is~and. Among 0

.. these being: 'PaLes' (Lot 21d); 1Morros' (ChoodBuffett;:'s-Lo't ?9kf); . ' . . '~ommy Snarr's' (Aunt Daisy's Lot 1~0h), but is· a composi~e. of several . ' . .

• '

' • •

' · bui~d~ngs etc. A number

· : have not survived (most

of structures which wer·e moved to new locations destroyed by.accidental fi~e). •

• • . . ' _. ,.. _.. • ' lllll ..

' . . . . .·.--Some sheds and a building known as.Bishop's Court (alter~cf) remained

• •

• • • , . .

. . on ex-Mission lands. • . •. , '

• • I . • • • • • • • • • • •

or :sold 'locally. Many . • • Furnishings were either taken pff the island • • • • homes on Norfolk Island. '

.. . ex-Mission furnishings are still to be ·found in

• 0

0 • • >. ' • • • • ,

, •

• ' o I •

• • • • • ' .

' . ' St ;B~rnabas 1

• • local Church ' .

chapel could not be·shifted of England., This ended alsp

'

• • ' . • •

• and was transferred to a 16ng issociation with

·,·,Zealand ecclesiastic authorities: bishops who were responsibe for

'

the New the· •

'

• • • • ~ • .· • ~ppointment of bishops of Melanesia •• ~~ Barnaba~ came un~er the. i . ,... '

• •

• •

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• archbishopric of Sydney. · Services at the chapel ·have remained • 1 L:ow • £ • • ' ' •

'

• Church' ever since but this change has no~ had any impact on. the fabric ' . . •

and furnishings of the church • •

• • • '

• • • L 0

• • • Few obvious changes took place to the chapel, apart from basic · ·:· •• 'maiJ!J:enance; painting, reshingling~· etc.' The . shingles were removed· . . '

~ ,during the .1970s and replaced with· the present roofing. · .(Pers. co~ • . . '

Charles (Chilla) Buf.fet.t and Jack Anderson). It is to the credit 'of the .; - '

Anglican community on Norfolk Island· that the chapel ,has. been' ~ ' -" .

adequately maintained, especially in' the light of their.principal· • •

• • •

place ?f worship being at Kingston, 1 the Islanders own chore~'·· Funding • • •

for maintenance was never a serious problem fo~ the Melanesian Mission·

• •

' • . . ' ,.: but· .~t V{as so (and is) for the local 'Anglican· community, henc~ at times

use had to be made of resources available, the guttering, downpipes •

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To upgrade the electricity was electric ligl}ts bellows.

chapel installed. and the

20

in terms of twentieth century expectations, Early light fittings were converted to fit

organ received ap electric motor to work the

The belltower received synthetic shingles and some of the timberwork was altered (minor details, note louvres).

It may be worth investigating to see if the silver surface of the organ pipes conceals a more more elaborately treated surface •

T H E G R 0 U N D S ( 1 9 2 0 1 9 9 4 )

Footings, platforms, path borders etc., the remains of the Mission 'township', still survive to the west and north of the chapel, mostly underground. The Mission well has been covered over (if not backfilled). Privy and rubbish pits, path contours, survive to the north of the chapel (in the gully).

During the late 1970s the headstones of the Melanesian Mission cemetery were removed and placed in a small square next to the chapel. The rationale for this act was that it made it easier for visitors to view the headstones. The old cemetery had been neglected for a long time but received no attention at all after the removal of the headstones except from grazing cattle. By the late 1980s interest was renewed in the

actual last resting place of the people of the Melanesian Mission, some clearing and fencing took place: regular tours by the Friends of St Barnabas' have taken place regularly since •

Living monuments of the Mission survive in the form of historical plantings on both sides of the Mission stream (including plants that have seeded from early plantings). Several of the trees are in poor condition. On the upper slopes above the old cemetery are some extraordinary relicts of a former landscape: paths, tracks, native trees (some with Melanesian markings), groupings of stone (natural, but some say they have seen 'strange' markings on some of the stones), etc. Some of the oldest African Olives on the Island are to be found here; these trees, together with later introduced weeds (Hawaiian Holly and Lantana) have been choking out the early exotic plants and native species. It must be said that the forms taken by some of the old African Olive groves create a wonderful 'gothic' atmosphere, almost frightening. Some of the hidden paths (mostly impenetrable) lead to all

• sorts of interesting scenes. A very curious early planting survival (probably seed descendents), along the narrow track eastwards. from the chapel, is an Australian native, a Hakea species but of the 'needle bush' variety (Hakea gibbosa?). The reason for its introduction escapes me but anecdotal evidence suggests that it was once more widespread (pre-1930s).

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21

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22

G U I D E L I N E S T 0 E N S U R E

ARCHAEOLOGICAL INTEGRITY

The following section is intended as a guide toward preserving the archaeological integrity of St Barnabas'. The section is meant to complement the main Glencross-Grant report.

There are times when fabric must be renewed, most commonly painting and roof sheathing (shingles etc) but sometimes major 'permanent' fabric components need attention, for example: rot or insect damaged timbers; disintegrating masonry; rusting ironwork etc. Rather than the destructive 'rip out and renew' of the not so distant past and the

,_

cause of much heritage ' loss, the conservation philosophy of these times advocates retaining as much of the original fabric as possible, even retaining later modifications.

For example: a column with a rotten base is rotten part is renewed; a cracked beam can be

not replaced, only the strengthened or coupled

with a new timber etc. However, deteriorated construction work may be replaced (if it can not be strengthened) when there is danger of load-bearing failure; for example, a course of fractured, crumbling stone, supporting a wall. St Barnabas' are sound.

Fortunately, the structural components of

My conservation maxim is:

Add, if reversible: never subtract.

The maxim requires a little elaboration. 'Never subtract' refers to significant fabric and landscape forms. 'Significant' refers to any physical manifestation that reflects the ongoing history and meaning of a place over time, even recent times: hence the importance of a statement of significance and historical/physical phasing as an aid for custodians in the making of subtract', if wisely observed, may have the same chance to present generation can.

sound decisions about a place. 'Never ensures that anyone visiting the place enjoy/study/etc., anything that the

'Add, if reversible' would ensure that no matter what was done, it could be reversed: the place 'it' was added to remains potentially the same. For example, some historic structures require room divisions for some present function: these can be installed without the removal of any significant fabric. (Note the modern subdivisions in the New Military Barracks at Kingston--- these were constructed without the removal or modification of the original fabric).

{

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• •

23

• ARCHAEOLOGICAL WATCH - OUT

---As mentioned elsewhere, St Barnabas' is extraordinary in that its original fabric is so well preserved: this means that any work done to the structure would have an impact on significant fabric.

THE'GROUNDS UNDER AND AROUND THE CHAPEL

Watch out for:

---Biotic and geological evidence of the past.

---Polynesian settlement remains (unlikely). Note: Polynesian material has turned up in all sorts of unlikely places all over the Island. It is likely that Melanesian items may have been lost on the chapel site before the structure was built: such items could be mistaken for Polynesian evidence, so stratigraphical context must be strictly noted.

---Evidence of First Settlement clearing, construction and cultural material (ceramics, glass etc).

---Evidence of Second Settlement land use. Evidence would be likely restricted to agricultural activities. Huts and sheds were built all over the Island for overseer accommodation and storage purposes. The area was also very popular for picnic outings (near and probably part of Orange Vale).

---Evidence of early Melanesian Mission activity: structural and cultural (European and Melanesian). The underground area, if not too disturbed during the construction period, may yield uncontaminated evidence of the pre-1875-1880 Mission period.

---Evidence of 1856-1866/1867 land use (initial Pitcairner period).

---Evidence of foundation trenches, trench spoils under materials used in the construction of the Chapel, mainly stone and mortar. Because of the intense activity within a small area over a longish stretch of time (1875-1880) artefactual and food material are likely to be found. Typically found, under such circumstances are: tools, personal items, bones, seeds etc •

---Evidence around the structure of former garden edges; debris from re-shingling, roof, wall and plumbing work; evidence of the 1920s dismantling of surrounding buildings; coins lost, meant for the collection plate etc •

. - -·----------------------~__j

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Page 28: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

25

CONSERVATION CHECK-LIST

MASONRY

.

The all

following example is offered the points made are directly

as a guide in check-list applicable to St Barnabas

be at some because it is The following

stage in the future. Masonry was chosen as the most common building material used in check-list may be as usefully applied to

form. Not but could an example the chapel. timber etc.

[1] Is the deterioration superficial? (see 2) or structural? (see 3).

[2] Has the deterioration stabilized? (if deterioration ongoing (flaking, powdering,

yes, see 4) cracking

or etc)?

is the (see 5).

[3] If structural, likely to cause eventual load-bearing failure, the defective parts of the stone should be replaced by a similar type of stone. NOTE: it is becomming practice to mark new work in some way . ('1994 1 etc)., to distinguish the new work from the old.

[4] If the (cracked, chipped, shifted etc.), stone has stabilized and this should be positively established, nothing further need be done, except to monitor the damage on a regular basis. NOTE: The odd crack, chip or scratch should not be obliterated, as such marks add character and a feeling of age appropriate to an old building •

[5] If flaking or powdering, it suggests ongoing decomposition, often due to salts contamination and rising damp, though sometimes due to a chemical reaction with the surrounding building materials (portland cements, for example, can break down certain types of stone and brick). Weathering (see 6), plant activity (see 7), cracking (see 8), human and animal activity (see 9), require individual solutions.

Such problems as these require treatment, see the main part of

accurate professional diagnosis and the Glencross-Grant report.

[6] Weathering: caused by fluctuations in dampness and dryness, heat and cold in conjunction with the agent of wind. Solutions to the effects of weathering are not straight forward.

The impregnation of stone with various substances to stop weathering is to this day a controversial treatment: the problem being that the

. protective substances are taken into the surface of the stone; this process is not reversible. There is always the danger that in time the tension between the 'skin' and the lower stone may result in surface flaking or pitting (manufacturers will say that this is highly unlikely, especially when introducing a new product). Sealers do break down in

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26

time and the end-product does not detach itself from the grains of the stone. Pressure within the stone, caused by dampness and built-up salts, may then start a new cycle of surface disintegration. Professional advice should be sought to treat the cause, not suppress the symptoms--see main part of the Glencross-Grant report •

The effects of wind are mostly to be seen along the lower parts of walls, generally due to the wind blasting sand and grit against the stone surface (note the lower walls of unrestored ruins at Kingston). Wind can be reduced by judicious planting (away from foundations) and

· by eliminating bare sandy soil or grit near stone walls.

[7] Plants can damage structures: under masonry; by introducing borers roots; by climbing the surface of against walls; by dropping leaves trapping moisture; etc.

by root activity through and and fungi through living or dead walls; by brushing repeatedly into gutters and roof valleys,

A lot of damage associated with plants are not due to the plants per se, but by their removal. To avoid damage, roots and vines should be cut away, not ripped out of or away from walls: roots should be treated to discourage borers and fungi. The surface roots of climbers on walls should be left to disintegrate naturally (to avoid surface damage).

IMPORTANT CONSIDERATION: Plants long associated with a structure form a living part of our heritage and should not be removed unless absolutely necessary (there may be options to consider, like; cutting away offending roots and creating an underground barrier, pruning etc) • .

In cases where a tree may have co-existed with a structure for so long that the shade and wind protection may have created a mini-environment, careful judgement is required. The sudden removal of the tree may cause stress to the structure and the ground it rests on by a regime of daily heating, cooling, drying etc., against which extremes the area was formerly protected. (There is such a case under study at the Hyde Park Barracks, Sydney, where a 120 year old tree is both damaging and protecting an 1818 structure).

[8] Cracks must be monitored (perspex squares, set corner to corner or by using the overlapping method, having matched black square outlines superimposed-- good for seeing which way the wall is shifting. Refer to Rex Glencross-Grant): these should be photographed regularly. NOTE: perspex squares are sometimes accidently moved, it is a good policy to cover a small section of a crack with a soft lime mortar: if the crack is active, it will soon be detected.

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Page 31: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

Lot 146.

26'? 28

Melanesian"Ivlission.

1867.

• •

146a (236) Melanesian Mission Complex Site and Grounds.

Only three structures remain above ground of this

complex; St Barnabas' Chapel, the bell tower and "Bishop's

Court". Parts of other buildings survive in buildings

scattered about the Island. Some houses were sold off

in their entirety, others were sold for their building

materials.

The Melanesian Mission received a grant of 919 acres

in 1867 for the sum of £1,890/10/-. One of the first of

the buildings to be built was the old St Barnabas' chapel

and the attached bishop's house. By the 1890s a small

village had sprung up about the Chapel.

The former landscaped paths may still be traced west

of St Barnabas and the footings and drains of some of the . ~

buildings survive in the same area. To the north of the

Chapel, on the slope down to tt1e stream, may be found

the remains of many of the long-drop privies, (which

were subsequently turned into Mission rubbish dumps).

Most of the major ornamental trees survive in the

present grounds, though many are endangered through age

and neglect.

>

>

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• , I . •

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Melanesian Mission. Old (N.I. Museum Collection).

Recommendations.

269

30

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~el and Bishop's residence. Ca 1880s.

Efforts slmuld be made to tend the ailing trees and

to try to propagate them throuc;h cuttings and seed.

The remains of the former paths and structures are ..

being damaged by constant parking traffic. The dumping

of some good solid soil over the parking area may help

to preserve some of the remains.

The area north of the phapel, on the slope of the

hill, is a popular place for bottle hunters. Perha.ps

this should be discouraged.

Owner: Church of England, Norfolk Island or Anglican Church

of Australia, (Sydney Diocese).

, . • • . . • ..

... . ... ... ., • ' . .-

~ .. • •

192. St Barnabus. North-east elevat ion."t1emorial Garden" in fore­

und. The head­tones removed fr

their site during he mid to late

1970s. R9:2.

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'

2?0

31

(237) •

St Barnabas' Chapel and Bell rrowe;r_ •

1 •

193· St Barnabas. West elevation. R9:3.

1J:his church building and bel.l tower are already on •

the National Register and the history of the structures •

are well known.

Recommendations.

• ~!here are several elements within the church which

need e.ttention. rD1e ancient flags hung along the west wall

are disintegrating and need urgent conservation work. The

pipes of the organ were painted silver when the original

paintwork had deteriorated; the original painted scheme

should eventually be restored to the organ. Some tiles

along the central passage are loose and need to be reset.

The night lighting is particularly harsh; the lighting

system should be reviewed. .

Owner,: Church of England, Norfolk Island or Anglican

Church of Australia, (Sydney diocese).

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2'?1

32

'

19lt·• t~elal\esian MissiOJ cemetery, (after the removal of the head­stones). View toward che south. R9:4.

195. Helanesian Missi cemetery. Remains of grave after the remova of 'the tombstones. Nor east corner of cerneter R9:6.

·196. "Melanesian Missio ,,.,....,rnorial Garden". The

eadstones are not in y particular order o

• • _pacJ.ng. •

:0.

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2?2 33

11~6b ..{228} l11elanesian Hission Cemetery:.

This is a sadly neglected paddock to the north of the

Chapel, over the creek. Only a decomposing post and wire •

fenee marks the boundary of the cemetery. Some rows of tiles

are the only markers left to suggest that the area may have •

been a cemetery. An overgrown hedge and a conifer remain as

part of the former landscaping. c

The headstones were removed during the mid to late

1970s and set u:p to form the 11Helanesian Jv1ission Memorial

Garden" just north of the Chapel. The approval was given by

the former Archbishop of Sydney. The reason given for the removal

of the tombstones v1as that it was too far for visitors to walk

to view the graves. 1l 1he young and old of the community on

the Island were and are deeply concerned at the desecration

of the old cemetery.

Recommendations.

The feeling of the community is that the headstones and

the markers should be returned to their rightful place in the

cemetery. A very 'Picturesque walk could be created by redefining

the old pathway and reconstrueting the former wooden bridge

over the creek

. Ovmer: Chureh of England, Norfolk Island or the Anglican Church

of Australia, (Sydney diocese).

146b (2~9) Axe .Harked Whiteoak near Melanesi.an Miss~n Cemetery.

This is really a group of three trees which are marked •

in axe patterns on the trunks. This was probably done by one !

of the boys belonging to tl1e Mission, perhaps as a native

religious expression connected with mourning.

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Page 38: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

488 TE:E 11DNT11LY P . .:'l.CKBT.

F t<o I{~ "tl..a.J~k( . mate shout their orders,-n.nd th:n fo see ~he wilt! sm·f dn.s~ n.gn.i~st " 1 the rock.bound const, :md break 10 i'pta.y hke an enurlllous tounta.m,

~o..du;l •.... t<68t and the wa.tcr of that· ~xquhitu grct::ny·hltto coldur, and just as the (vo-f "!.I I r....d l ~s). waves cUI·lud C"\"CI', :m npal'tint coming 0\'C~· them. It wns i';O gl~rious, a..l<-<4. £.( ~ I nevet· coul~ haYC iwnginecl nnyth:ng like it; _it :>ce:met~ :t.<; if t~o Lus.H (tis -!)::.t\ ocean was tt:ymg to tc:::r down thll :;wbbom l:ock:> tLu.t hmdet·cLI n.q

1 ~ progress. '.I:Le11 r.!. !:t~t \\'O ca~t :mc!:or nt tho C;J.SCtl.des on tho other side of the islnud, whe:1·c th~r!.l wn.s comp:n·nth·~Iy little sul·f, a.nll we calmed down Ht!l!ciently to be w:ry glnt.l uf SOlJ:o brea.kfo.st. Thi::;· lunding·pln.co is called 'The Ca::c:~dt:s,' bcc:\\1SO there nrc two misora.ble little stre:lllls coming o\"(!~' tho top of tho rocks. .Aft.er a boo.t h::.tl. gone o!Y with :~. few of the pa~scngcrs, chil.'lly those who belonged to tho )Iission, :mll who w:mted to go and prepare the other;; for our :u·rh·a.l, ''"e waite:1l i.-ill a bo:tr. came ali; with Bi;;hop :-:elwyn himself in it, and with :mel( a. he:u·r.y weleomt.l fat· us all. A bo:tt, ·a. huge wh!"l.lo­bo:~.t, belonging to tl.e :::\orfoll:el"$1 :1nd m::.nncd bJ• Lhem, came oil: to ta.ke all the 1mlic:> a:-lic1·c. They were iH~ch fine :>\\":n-th)' looking men, dre5sed just !u ·~hirt:; aud trousers, and l'plcutlid on.rsmen; one ·1\"ns

. steerin"" with a. b.ro-e c:l.r, a:; a. rudder is of no n::o in tile sur£. Bil:'han 0 ~ ~

Selwyn helped us ull it:.tto tbo bo:1.t with tho greatc~;t lcindnc:ss, and wo \Vere rowed about :.i mile, 1 S"".lppo:-•~, to the ln.uding·J!lnce, :l. huge, fbt rock, studded with iron rings; here we \Yn.t.chcJ. our opportunity and jumped ashore, after the wa.\'es hn.d receded. Sul":h :l. motley group met our eyes: First the dar.!.:: N"orfolkers tn picture~lrne undress j then the' Melanesian boys, of all shades of bro\Vll, with their woolly ho.ir stand­ing out round their heads; and·then. we saw the 'Sanb Ct•uz' boys­lately brought from their island, wi!;h the!r e:-.~·s ;:tnlfcd full of rings­::.11 welcoming us a.s if we had been k:::.o"·n. to l.!~am. for years: the1·e, too,. WCl'e the )Iissiouo.ries, with their wa.rm grcetings,-Mr. :Palmer, Mr. Comins, and ::JI1·. Rice; :~.11 :md e:J.ch vying with each other to sho\v u.s kindne:ls.

The wild beauty of the spot where we landed, ruuclc the artists of Olll.' p:u·ty set to wm·k with pencil and brush at once, and sketch

:as· if· for dear life; till at l:lst the Bishop c::uno ashore a.ga.iu, having ·seen eyery one ::a.fe :mJ giving orJ.ers tbt a.ll tho bunting on the ship was to be b1·ought up to the :ilissiou Station, to help in the decora.tion~ on the great ga.l:J. day, viz., tho consecl·ntion dtty. Then bogn.n the lov.;. liest drive I a.m eYer likely to tc.ke. :Fh·st up the hlll, a.t the top c·f which wa had a ch:l.l'min;( glimpse of the Llne sea., a.nd then alon:: a. roa.d lll:l.de long ago by the convicts, such a roa.d I all hung ·o\'<:r. in places, with white onks in !lower, a.nd gh·iug glimpses of the p:ll·b lika country, with it.s clumps of grand 11iues, a.nd dotted oYer with n.-~

~ . .

and w.nitc cattle, and here and i:hill"C th~ brcHJ.d. vern.ndn.hed cutL:..,_:c· .• of the Norfolkel"s, with their ba.na.na. pl:mtations behind them. r.~o.! bright ga.rdons in front, and pleasant-looking people coming out to ......... .. 11 &1,. • - \.,.. + ti·, ,':'.~-~ t·.,.·- .. _ -~ .... ..,.,.'tt!"''ool'\ f,_ lAT't<;,"""•'"._.,l'~l'h;; ''-'H\~t't I·

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A 'rlliP TO :XOllFOLK ISL.\~f\ • •

by the ron.d-sidc, with their goldt:n·looki.ug.fruit .hanging iu hu·go clusters partly hidden a.mong the len.yes, while the sun shone with :t bt·ightuess we hnd never seen before, far brighter tha.11 in this .::mmy land of New Zen.l:tnd. Tho a.h· wns :;o soffi, :md tho colotu·i1~g uf gm~:z, t1·ce:-:, sky aml sea. so intense tlmt we hu.tl 110 doubt :thou~ being iu :'1. foreign ln.ntl. Aml hel·o, I mny a:; well ::uy, tL.a.t tho sceuct·y is toi;:~.lly tmHke :mythiug in ?:\ ew Zealand, for we h:we nothing pnrk-Hko hcte, :md thet·e, every ono sa.iti, wLo l:11e:w :myd1ing of E:lghmd, that the whole island wo.s like :t ge:m!onmu's well·kepr. gro.ulllls.

At last we turned down a. long ,::,tr:tight tt\'t:mue of pi!ll;::, la:ttling to the )lission St:.~.tion, :::.nd th~re, ttt tho bottom of tho l'O:u.l, \I'O c~ught sighc of tho chnpol we hn.d como :tl! this wr.y to sec. Ou tho othct· sitle of the t·on.d we passed lirst )l.r. J:lnlwer's hou;:c, with :t hc\l;:e of SO!llO pt·otty bluc·!lowering !iht·ub; below th:tt·, tht·ee or fom· hui!J.. in;s used by the ma.rrieu ::llehtnesi:ms j thNl the :,t:\!Jle Ullll b:tm: not far fr::)m theso is Bishop Se:lwyn's hou.;e, wherP. :\[!·. nnJ ~J'1·s. K:l}"e

Were n.!~u living, ::s there was nu house fot· them ju::.t then. Below the Bishop's is :\fr. ;1\ice:'s, and then :Jir.>. Colt!nso's. On the other siJ.o )> Ot tho l"ilad,.beside the chapel, is the large hall, kitt:hcn, :J.Utl pdntillg'• ~ o!Ece ; a.lso ilfr. Comin:;' a.nd :Jlr. Codri1Jgi:ou's hottsos, :md :J. little {tl farther up, the old chapel n.ud llon~-e, whet·e 13ishop l'::tt.:son lh·ed, ::nd Z:, wherr. nir. Penny and his iiiebuesian schohrs li Ye UO\'"· I \\";l.S at tJ ?lfr~;. Colenso's, anJ she h:."l.d. cleY~lt o:>thet· Yisitors b<lsides ! But sht:.\C:\$ -­eqnnl. to the occnsion,n.nd lll:J.u:tgetl :.~.s only n. ?.ft·s. Coleuso cottlJ. \Vc )< h~d tluito lu::~1rious quarters, ~:1d )f~·~. ~ColC!!so \·v·as so k!ntl and nice ~ to, us ail.

'l'he first thing we did w:~s to hayo .1 welcome b:::.th, r.nd th~:n we cam~ out yery gren.t tm·clls for luncheon, niter which wa went a. totll.' of inspection, first to tho new ch::.pcl-tho effoct of which on ontc-rin;; w:l:l to ma.ke t1rs think, ''rhis is uono other than the IIou~e of GoJ.' \Yo Colonials, who had never seen r.nything worth seeing in tho wn.y uf a. church, 1vere' pel-fectly a.stoni.shed with it3 beauty. The p:tYe:mcnt vf marble, to the momoty of 'Stcphe:n l:'t·ocmani.h•,' t!:·st (b:fonl Secret:u·;' of tho Melanesian !llission, : sC!nt by his school m~tl collC"~e fricml:;,' is of bla.ck and white,'and red a.nd gray mnrblQ, and th'-! uppt:1' part, l'ai~ed fi.vo steps, is in 9- very lovely p:tttern or dcl·it:c:, lhc rig!JL uamc fct· v;hich is I believe 'Opus .A..le~:mdrinu:..' Tht~ :h·o li;.;ltt:s in the al1$e :uo tilled with the foul' e\a.ngelbts, and the l"~J,tre lights represent C!u·i:;t, as the King of the worhl, with l fi;; h:tnd t~til'ec.l i11 blessing tho wodd which He holds in tho ot!Jel' h:~ntl. The pillars of marble, which snn·~und the ·windows, snpporr; c::pit:~b of whitt: ~tone, cnt·\·ilJ by ~tr. Codrbgton him~elf. · •

• Tb raredos bolo"'· is wondcrfnlly be:mtifnl, set with golJ. mosaic work1 and has p:mels co.ryeu with pdt~t le:l.\"c;;; in group,; of lh·e, e!<ch knuf..i.ed, in memory of that pa.lm br:mch founc1 011 J3i:::hop :Pa.ttc::,on'.~ hl~f)•H•.J. ,._rJ,.~\\· t..:f"> ,1 .... -A:.t'io n''"""' ~ h"U .... l ... d. : ... 'S't""f"\'\Ol•c...l <tt.+:fll -l'lt,(') ..,.. ..... 11\'\.• 1'1\•f•"'"f"•lt

Page 39: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

-1no · TliE ?IWNTHI.l: r.\.CICE'.r, •

with its fi..-o !ea.vcs, and :1. cross sm·mo\mtcd by :1. crowu, :1.11d a lloYe tho words, 'Log ronoga; t,'oJ, <'tt,ro t1tl.:ct' {Glory to Cod). There n.re abo soma beautiful t!os:::al hanging.:; wnl"l;:cll by T.n.tly Goot1<'lV'>Ugh, in )llemory 0! her husb:md. 'l'hc ~\ llnr doth was wol'l:ccl by t.h~ ::\ti~s P:Hte~ons.

The- organ, gh·cu from tho procceliS of ~he l.Vc; ;:r lJZilltop Patteson, stands .on the :;omh lo'itlC!1 iu n.n org:1.n·dmmb~:r, nn:l tliu \"~Stry is in :1. \!Ol'l'Cliponc1iug l'ec:ess on tiiO horth l>idc. Thu font of Devonshire marble was the lo\'clie:..f; we h:tt.l lllnny of us e\'er seen. :ulll. tho rose window nntl th·e li!!hts nnd~t· it; n.t; the wei't end are f~ll of

. ~lo:wed gla~s, :>. Pltili p bn.ptizing tho Ethiopian seeming to hold :1. Yel'Y Slgipficaut place, especial!)" Whe-n we think tbn.t it :tUU the other WIUdO,\"S a.t thut enJ. arc in mcm017 of the othct· mnrtyt·s of the )tcl:me~inn Church. A. brnss ngnin~t. the ·wnll tt>lls tho ren(let· whotu tho church is .erected in lnemot·y of. '1'ltc side lights :wo pbin n.ntl. $Cfl1are·hc:Hlcll, auu lhe e:wes outside I;'Oute down \'C:l'J tlc~\p 0\'(:t' tltcm. There al'O

wooden pillars let into tho stone walL;. ar,rl the roof h:'.s l.:cn.n· ben.ms •. .. ... runnmg :l.Cross it-this somehow looks peculi:w-but :1.s th!!!'C is no pa.rtirubr style of architecture the\· cn.nnot be cn.l!cd o~:t of place. Tho e~terior is very curious, nnd hn~ :J. h.;a.vy porch ne:~t· the d~or­just likoa.le:m-to. Somo of the stone~; nsc(l in bniltling the chapd 'vera t:J.ken from the oltl co~vic!; bui1dit'~~, nnd you can still tr:tce letters on soma of them. .

IVa went over some of the oLhcr l.mi!din£"s ::.ftcrwar:l:J . ..:!..1! the houses h~ve deep >el-::.nd::.s, a.nd la.rge dormitcti;.s fo!· ti:e hoy;:; or girls-the gxrls being at the houses of tho mnrricd cJcrB'Y· All the houses lookct.l delightfully cool, nnd with pretty photog\·a.phs ::.nd prints nnd illumi­nated texts nbout :md bright flo;,.·.crs tin.vc one ::. ser1sa of COl!lfor!; and cheerfulness. The native boys and girls seem on the most filid terms with tho ~fission folk l their. whole beh:n·iour shows th:1.t they goYern them by tho 'lovo \Yhich c:-• .dcth out f.:at•.' .

We saw Bishop Patte~c- -- m, which he dcse1·ibes .,o cheerilr i!l his letters to his sisters, anu ::...:~~ ,J\·~~· the ,m:J.ntelshdf is the copy of Leona.rdo da. Vinci's Last S11ppe1·, just; as it hung whc:J. he \ms there, and many of his otbe1· things a1·o 6till about-the boys sliupinrr in and

t . - b

ou JUSt as they used to do in his ti:ne i :J.nd .from tb bro:1.d verandr. the beautiful view of ~fount Pitt's fot·cst-co\'erod slopes which he used to look at. \V c al::o we~t into the old chn.pe1, i.lOW used :J.S n. dass-ronm a.nd tu:·ned into a barrn.cks for some of th~ visitor:> during our st.ay: the:·e Is a. door between the Bishop's rooms n.nd the ch.apel, through which he used to hear the service 'Vhcn ill.. Coulcl he\ but ~oo-:uul who ~:hall say he does not 1-his fulnlleu vision of n. bcautlfl:l chw:ch, \>ould he not be glad that that a.lso is ono of the fruii.s of 1,:, den.th 1 •

. The ha.ll is a lofty largo building, whore a. long taulc l},,w:; :!: .. mtddle wa.s full f1·om end to end each d::.v. • The )fcbnciiian:; ;:Na·r.:l!\·

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nn1l lh·eu picnic fnshion for n. tren.t, null we _nl'ed to bern· them :;houting · rcunt.l their fires in tho c\·ening as merry ns possible.

Tho liLtle girls :l.l'O ucn.r liHlc things, with such mops of ~oft wuol \\'O \\"ere alwn.ys cn.tching hold of it,·tho 'feel' of it; wns so <:OS\', One u~ccl to como softly i11to our rooUL wiL!t tc:t at ii\·e .\.:.1.; :;h~ was n

.. ~ '"'" -

ch:~.rming <'hild, al w:~.y:; ro::.tl y fat• :1. Lit of. fun. Doth boys and girl:; h:~.\'c t.hc>. t•tm of n.ll the roomx in tlru tli!YC't·cut lton~es, but, unlike white children, they :ll'o t1e\·er in the: W:\)'1 nnd thongh fiye C>t' ;.ix lll:t\' bo

- . n.hont, one is nc\'Cl' disturbed by them. ·'fho girl, wcat· print .\nckct;; and :;kirts, n.nd the boys shirt~ nnJ. tro\ISCl',;, of com•;:o no tmts or :;boC>;:<,

Tbe girls a1·o t:lllght to sew, :tnd thoy tl~l :1. gt'C:'\t Je:tl of work !or tho ::J1ission in tho wa.y of 1llenuing, &<.•., anti they :J.l'C nbo taught hon~e work, bcsi{lcs tho three It';;, nntl of ,t·on:·::e I~ib!.:: te:tchin!!. "·hieh is !\1:\UC

- ~-·

tho chief thing. The :Jli:s~ion lmlic:; t1·:wh tho girls :. they ne\·ct' go lo th(l :school n.t :dl with the boyn; Ltl~ :~great p:u·t of thu tcachin!! musi,

~

ho from the r~ttuo!>phcre of the place, aud e~:muph!. 'l'hu ;;irl,; :tl W•t \'5

left tho ch:Lpel before the boys, and went on!; so (!nie;tly nnd l't'Y(.'rcntly. I suppose that M I :~m :1. wotn:\n,. I was UlOl'c1 taken np wit.h the girl:> t.han the boys, bnt; <:om•:: of the l::.tter scllm C'XCccdingl y nice f ellov:s. 'l'hc oltler ones who wu.itcd at t:!.blc on us thought il; Jlne fun, nntl diu it in n. very hn.ndy manner. ·

- - - - ~

The::;· do :L grant t!en.l of work on tlw fn.rm, :1nt.l le:tl'n to cook, look d~l'~· the cow:>, m~kc butter, antl p1·int. The forms fot· the con~ccmtion *cn·ic•~ wc1·c printed by som<· ot th;.:m. \Yo) ::;aw them. :J.t ::chool:;;llC morning; thu cldm_· boys t:mght the )'Qimget• one!~, and seemt:J \·ery e::tr::H~st OYer the work. One eht!i:': of dtler boy.<, tn.ught by one of the whito clergy, were having n. lesson on the }bird chapter of SG. )[tttth;.w;, n.ml t~nswered in :1. VC,'l')' thoughtful manner. 'l'lwr-are not :1. bit like ?tfaotie!i, t\l~d h::wc not an\" of the impertinence of ?.fa.ori c:Ui!Jrcu a11d

- .. ... ' -

tm·u shyly a.way if look.:Ll at too much; they are merrier, :md much shorter, and I think they are n. geutler"race altogether. One 11:1.y we went to se!! hhe marl'icd folk, who live in :1. long houl;e ll:Hlcr soma pine:>, E:tch couple have n. room to lhemHl·lY~s. and then: i:-: ono largo ;.itting room. There were some sweet; little babies there; wo ~an, them St:!!O.r

plums, and thoy did like them .so. Ouc \"!!r;· youug h:tl1y wa::~ keptso nice bv its motl:.t:r-quite :1. youn!! !!irl.

~ ~ ~ ... They h:tYO a. hn.rmonimll in lhcir· :-:it tit•g l'C1nm ; .<omc l'lnr '·cry \wll,

ono bvy, .Alfred, pla.yctl :1t the >cn·:~·1.! ill c!nu·ch Olll'!!. )lo:;~ of tho married folks \Ycre te::.chers from thc.:ir i:-l:tml,; r~··l' :t holiday. They do ::t great den.l of good at their own i:-l:tnll::. Some ui t!tc 11c'v $<:holars ll:l.\"0 been taught to read nf:. tuci1• OWn hoU:-CS U)' thC>C oltl Schol:trs, SO when they come to :::~N-folk bland thc:ro i.~ a fomubtiou ·Jnid fot• sup01·iol· teaching, O.l1d it ::n,·~s mueh y:dn:tb!e Lime. .All llte boYs ~utl.

• girls aro from numberless dilT ercnt i:Jands, and all spc:tk di!fel·ent br.gunges; but at Norfolk.I,.land they are obligctl to learn :Jiota., the langmtge spoken in n.n islantl ~·f lhat uame in thc.Bankes gronp. In the

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Page 41: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

l

1

All Saints' Church, Kingston, Norfolk Island •

Stained Glass Window, East Wall.

Outline Recommendations.

Rosette window, apparently showing King David •

Panels below rosette, showing evangelists • •

Page 42: H T 0 R A L R S P E C T I V E - Archaeology Onlinenswaol.library.usyd.edu.au/data/pdfs/16216_ID_Varman1994...31 Wombat Street, Berkeleyvale, Central Coast, NSW 2261 Phone and Fax (043)

, ~·

.. 2

All Saints' Church Outline Report and Recommendations.

1 :0 Introduction.

No historical references have so far been found

regarding the stained glass windows. It is suspected •

that the two mid panels and the rosette date to the

mid to late 18708, (despite the commemoration of

an 1864 event). The outer two panels would date to

the mid 1880s because of the commemoration of the

death of George Hunn Nobbs, (died 05:11 :1884). All

{he stained glass appear to have been designed and

manufactured by the same makers.

The entire composition consists of a rosette

and four vertical panels set in a pointed recess of

plate tracery. Two phases are suggested because of

the differences between the mid two panels and the

outer two panels: note the difference in the placing

of the saddle bars and the contrasting treatment of

the inscriptions, "tiling11 and colour schemes.

It is thought unlikely that the windows have

ever received any repairs in the past.

The following is a list of the obvious damage

examinable from standing level. "Division" refers

tgkhe divisions in the panels visually created by

the iron saddle bars.

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• •

3

• •

1:1a Panel1, (north most light).

Some cracking in the hand and the lower part of •

the red robe.

1 :1b Panel 2, (north mid light).

The iron saddle bar between the

head and torso has rusted through

at the north end. The head division

bulges in, (ie, into the interior of

the building); the torso bulges out;

and the feet division bulges in

" slightly.

Mid panels. Detail of panel 3.

1 :1 c

Panel 3, (south mid light).

The torso division bulges out slightly; the feet

division bulges in slightly. One pane of the 11tiling"

section under the feet has two small triangular pieces

missing. The glass panes are lifting away from the cames

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4

in two places in the lower two divisions.

1 :1d Panel 4, (South most light).

The red glass of the robe is cracked in the division·

above the feet.

1 : 1 e Rosette •

This appears to be in good condition, though there •

appears to be an irregularity at the beard and a small

crack across a red pane in the lower circle •

2:0 Recommendations.

It is recommended that an expert in the restoration

of stained glass be consulted to make a full assessment

of the windows. (Kevin Little of Arncliffe Studios has

been nominated by Cox and Partners. The Little family

have been involved in stained and lead glass since about

1908. Kevin Little is well known for his restoration

work on many significant historic windows in Sydney.

A M/s Cherrie Phillips, who is also a restorer of stained

glass, will be on Norfolk Island early next year to c~aft

a series of windows for Colleen Me Cullough).

It is strongly recommended that the windows be restored

in situ. A number of panes may need to be replaced and

some of the cames need strengthening. The restoration

expert in stained glass should assess as to what action

should be taken concerning the bulging sections. Re-leading •

is not recommended as it is believed that this would

._____-_-_-·_____:__· .-..:_• . -=---_8 "' -_· . •. -. - ' ·-. .. .• • -~ - _--•-o_:· -=-""-'""------'---''----'-----=---:.!......_;"-'---':___:_:"--'----'---=-=-....:......---'---""""-""""-------.J ----- ---- - . . - ' .. . .. .. ' .. -·

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.. ..

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detract from its historic~l status. The lead camas

are just as much a part of the original fabric as the glass.

Many historical windows have been re-leaded in the past

as a matter of course but now to the regret of those

involved in heritage matters • •

The iron saddle bars should all be closely examined

as it is feared that they were set in plaster. In one

case the bar has completely rusted. through near wall contact.

The wire ties should also be checked •

R.V.J. Varman

Panel 3, lower divisions. Consultant Archaeologist.

25th July 1984.

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