GLY 4734 / 6932, Spring 2016Coastal Morphology and Processes

Tuesday (9:35-10:25 am)& Thursday (9:35-11:30 am)202 Williamson Hall

Instructor:

Dr. Peter N. Adamsadamsp@ufl.eduwebsite: http://geology.ufl.edu/adams.html279 Williamson HallOffice Hours: By appointment(352) 846-0825

Teaching Assistant:

Christian Provanchacprovancha@ufl.edu@ufl.edu120 Williamson HallOffice Hours: By appointment

Course Description:This class will focus on quantitative investigations into the origin/evolution of coastal landforms and thephysical processes responsible for their creation and modification. We will cover the following topics: geo-morphic classification of coasts, sediment description and analysis, sea level fluctuation, tides, generation andtransformation of waves, wave breaking, nearshore currents, longshore and cross-shore sediment transport,deltas, estuaries, beach and nearshore morphology, barrier island systems, cliffed coasts, and the effects ofclimate change on coastal environments.

Course Objectives:At the completion of this course, students will be able to:

1. Summarize the schemes of coastal classification and identify the tectonic setting of a coast by evaluatingthe coastal landforms at a location.

2. Appreciate the influence of global climate and long-term sea level history on a coastal setting.3. Distinguish among various processes responsible for short-term dynamic changes in sea level.4. Explain the origin of the tides with Newton’s equilibrium theory and the complexities explained by

dynamic tidal theory.5. Outline the processes of wave transformation from generation to propagation to shoaling and breaking

including the role of refraction.6. Summarize the generation of cross-shore and longshore currents in shallow coastal waters.7. Classify coastal sediments and demonstrate how sediment transport within littoral cells influences the

evolution of shore profiles and planform shapes.8. Link the form and variability of beaches and shallow sedimentary features to the hydrodynamic and

sedimentary processes shaping them.9. Provide an overview of how barrier systems originate and evolve.

10. Explain the linked behavior of tidal inlets, estuary hydrodynamics, and back barrier morphology.11. Contrast rocky and sandy coasts in terms of dominant geomorphic processes.12. Provide several examples where humans are adapting to, or altering, a coastal site.

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Required Textbook:

Introduction to Coastal Processes & Geomorphology, 2nd Edn., 2011, by Gerhard Masselink, Michael G.Hughes, and Jasper Knight; ISBN: 978-1444122404; Publisher: Hodder Education

Logistics:

During class meetings (T&R, period 3), we will discuss the concepts that you have read about (ahead of time)and work through some examples. During work sessions (R, period 4), you will work (sometimes individually,sometimes in small groups) on problem sets or reading/discussion exercises, which you will finish outside ofclass and turn in (online to the Canvas site) by an announced date and time. We will have two one-day fieldtrips (tentatively scheduled for T/02/02/2016 and T/04/05/2016) to get to know the regional coastalgeology, examine beach morphology, and witness coastal processes in action. We will have biweekly quizzesto keep up with the material and also to avoid the overwhelming task of digesting 4 months worth of studyinto a two-hour exam. Lastly, you will each present a case study on human-coastal interactions at a site ofparticular interest to you (details to come).

Course Readings:

The textbook is required, and will serve as the primary reading material. Further reading will be provided inthe form of my detailed course notes and powerpoint slide .pdfs. The course topics are organized (roughly)in the same order as the textbook chapters, so you shouldn’t have much difficulty figuring out what to readto be prepared for the class meetings. Note that the notes and slides are not a suitable substitute for thetextbook readings. In addition, I will provide some readings from the following sources:

• Davidson-Arnott, R. (2010). Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology. Cambridge.

• Davis, R. A., Jr, & FitzGerald, D. M. (2004). Beaches and Coasts. Blackwell Publishing.

• Komar, P. D. (1998). Beach Processes and Sedimentation, 2nd Edn., Prentice Hall.

Note on Course Structure:

This is a modified ”flipped” format class, meaning that you MUST read the provided material before class,otherwise you will be lost when we are discussing it. This can be embarrassing and can undermine yourperformance in the class. Consider the reading assignments to be your primary solo homework. We’ll spendsome time working on the written assignments when we meet together in class. That’s the nature of the”flipped classroom”.

Grade Calculation:Assignments and Discussions 35%Quizzes 35%Field Trip 10%Case Study Project 10%Class Participation 10%

Letter Grade Distribution:Final grades will be determined by computing final scores then shifting the class-wide distributions accordingto a gaussian curve, if necessary, to get an adjusted score for each student. After applying the curve, theadjusted score will be subject to the following grading scale:

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>93 A 73 - 77 C90 - 93 A- 70 - 73 C-87 - 90 B+ 67 - 70 D+83 - 87 B 63 - 67 D80 - 83 B- 60 - 63 D-77 - 80 C+ <60 F

University of Florida Student Honor Code:Preamble: In adopting this Honor Code, the students of the University of Florida recognize that academichonesty and integrity are fundamental values of the University community. Students who enroll at the Uni-versity commit to holding themselves and their peers to the high standard of honor required by the HonorCode. Any individual who becomes aware of a violation of the Honor Code is bound by honor to takecorrective action. Student and faculty support are crucial to the success of the Honor Code. The qualityof a University of Florida education is dependent upon the community acceptance and enforcement of theHonor Code.

The Honor Code: We, the members of the University of Florida community, pledge to hold ourselves andour peers to the highest standards of honesty and integrity. On all work submitted for credit by students atthe University of Florida, the following pledge is either required or implied:

”On my honor, I have neither given nor received unauthorized aid in doing this assignment.”

(1) All students are required to abide by the Student Honor Code. (2) The conduct set forth hereinafterconstitutes a violation of the Student Conduct Code. Those adjudged to have committed such conduct shallbe subject to the sanctions provided in Rule 6C1-4.016, F.A.C.

Tentative Course Outline:

Week Content

Week 1

• Topics: Importance and History of Coastal Science (L01); Coastal Landforms (L02);Coastal Classification (L03)

• Reading: Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 1, pp. 1-22; Inman and Nordstrom (1971)• Assignment: Worksheet and Discussion of Tectonic Classification of Coasts (A02)

Week 2

• Topics: Sea Level Oscillation and History (L04); Short-Term Dynamic Changes in SeaLevel (L05)

• Reading: Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 2, pp. 23-45; Davidson-Arnott (2010): 38-44;Komar (1998), pp. 95-101

• Assignment: ”Components of Sea Level Rise” (A02)

Week 3• Topics: Tides: Equilibrium (L06) and Dynamic (L07) theories• Reading: Davidson-Arnott (2010): Chp. 3, pp. 29-38;• Quiz 1 (L01-L05)

Week 4• Topics: Estuary Morphology (L25); Estuarine Hydrodynamics (L26)• Reading:Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 7, pp. 178-210;• Assignment: ”Understanding the Tides” (A03)

Week 5

• Topics: Field Trip: Cedar Key and Seahorse Key Marine Lab; Wave Defini-tions and Measurement (L08); Wave Generation (L09)

• Reading: Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 4, pp. 71-79;• Quiz 2 (L06-L07, L25-L26)

Continued on next page

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Table 1 – Continued from previous pageWeek Content

Week 6• Topics: Airy Wave Theory (L10); Wave Propagation, Shoaling, and Refraction (L11)• Reading: Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 4, pp. 79-92;• Assignment: ”Wave Transformation Problems” (A04)

Week 7

• Topics: Wave Breaking (L12); Radiation Stress, Run-Up, and Infragravity Motions(L13)

• Reading: Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 4, pp. 92-102; Add’l reading provided• Assignment: ”Nearshore Waves” (A05)

Week 8

• Topics: Nearshore Circ.; Undertow and Rips (L14); Longshore Currents (L15)• Reading: Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 8, pp. 217-224;• Quiz 3 (L08-L14)• Assignment: ”River of Sand - Video” (A06)

• SPRING BREAK

Week 9• Topics: Coastal Sediment (L16); Sed. Transport (L17); Littoral Cells (L18)• Reading: Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 5, pp. 105-146;• Assignment: Sediments and Transport (A07)

Week 10

• Topics: Beach Morphology: Form and Variability (L19); Beach Morphodynamic Pro-cesses and Models (L20)

• Reading: Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 8, Assigned Readings TBD• Quiz 4 (L15-L20)

Week 11• Topics: Nearshore Morphodynamics - Bar Behavior (L21); Barrier Systems: Types

and Morphology (L22); Overwash and Barrier Migration (L23)• Reading: Masselink et al. (2011): Chp. 8, Assigned Readings TBD

Week 12

• Topics: Tidal Inlets (L24); Sea Cliff Mechanics; Evolution of Rocky Coasts (L30)• Reading: Davis Jr and FitzGerald (2004): Chp. 12, pp. 209-244; Masselink et al.

(2011): Chp. 10, pp. 298-323• Quiz 5 (L21-L24, L30)

Week 13 • Topics: Field Trip: Anastasia Island and Matanzas Inlet• Assignment: Anastasia Island Project

Week 14 • Topics: Case Study Presentations

References

Davidson-Arnott, R. (2010), Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology, Cambridge.

Davis Jr, R. A., and D. M. FitzGerald (2004), Beaches and Coasts, Chp. 08 - Barrier Systems, Blackwell.

Inman, D., and C. Nordstrom (1971), On the tectonic and morphologic classification of coasts, The Journalof Geology, 79 (1), 1–21.

Komar, P. D. (1998), Beach Processes and Sedimentation, Chp. 04 - The Changing Level of the Sea, PrenticeHall.

Masselink, G., M. G. Hughes, and J. Knight (2011), Introduction to Coastal Processes & Geomorphology,2nd edition ed., Hodder Education, London.

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