Glossaand the north of Skopelos Island

The author

Martin Beckett is an internationally renowned photographer whohas created campaigns for many clients such as BMW, Cyprus,Deutsche Bank, Volvo, Jersey, Emirates Airlines, Rolls Royce,Bosch etc. His work has been exhibited worldwide and has received numerous awards. He also has been president of UK, European and Worldwide associations of visual artists and campaigns for artist’s rights.

His writing has appeared in many magazines and journals and hehas been a columnist for The British Journal of Photography andAmateur Photographer and editor of Image Magazine and FujiTimes.

He has a home on Skopelos Island.

All text and images copyright © martin beckett/skopelosholidays.comMap by © Tomas KambourisNot to be reproduced in part or whole without specific authorization.Skopelosholidays.com is a not-for–profit website.

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Glossa:-a traditional Greek hill village

The island of Skopelos has been divided by its mountainous terrain for thousands of years with Glossa the centre for the northof the island and Skopelos town becoming the capital and maintown of the south. A 9 hour long journey by donkey (or a sea voyage) was the only route between the two villages until the1960’s when they became joined by the new road which now linksthem in a mere 35 minutes. After centuries of separate development though they still remain distinctly different places,both culturally and visually. With Skopelos taking most of thetourist, commercial and administrative development,Glossa has been allowed to remain remarkably unchangedwith a pace and way of lifethat also reflects a more unhurried time.

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The surrounding countryside of the north of the island is alsoknown for its unspoiled nature with deep valleys and broadleaftrees, olive groves, fruit orchards and lovely cove like beaches.Tiny lanes take you as far as the lighthouse at Cape Gourouni andto the many small chapels and monasteries as well as the famousAyios Yiannis church on the rock featured in the film Mamma Mia.While the port of Loutraki just 5 minutes below the village provides ferry access and some waterside eateries, cafes andshops and has a long flat beach.

The views from this part of the island are also truly outstandingand are complemented by islands and parts of the mainland,which can be seen in many directions as far as Mt Athos in thenorth and the island of Skyros in the south. But when you add thespectacular light shows of sunrise, sunset and moonrise to theseviews then you have a sight that is truly miraculous.

Glossa itself, a village of some 1000 inhabitants, is situated highabove the sea facing to the west with views across to the nearby

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islands of Skiathos and Evvia and to the mainland with its mountain ranges of Mt Parnassos and Mt Pelion clearly visible.Most of the tavernas and restaurants in Glossa take full advantageof these views, but just walking around the steep cobbled lanesgives surprise glimpses along the coast and across the sea whichframe the whitewashed houses and tiled roofs. Many of thehouses abandoned in the diaspora of the Greek people have alovely crumbling charm and the amazing painted woodwork ofdoors and windows often remain untouched by modernisation.

Life in thev i l l a g emostly con-tinues as ithas for cen-turies with tradit ionalshops, oldmen playingbac kgam-mon, ladiesin blackw a s h i n g

down the stone steps and the occasional donkey bearing fodderback from the hills all part of the daily scene. Of course the modern world is here too and most of the cafes and tavernas havefree wi-fi for customers!

The small population, perhaps because of the sunny aspect, arenoticeably friendly and happy to see visitors to their lovely hilltopvillage and a greeting of “kalimera” (good-day) is always responded to.

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Glossa is in many ways a time capsule as well as a living breathingplace - its faded textures and breathtaking views as well as thewarmth of its people should be experienced as a part of the realGreece so seldom seen nowadays.

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GLOSSA - getting around

Glossa is a hillvillage criss-crossed withalleyways ands t o n es t e p p e dlanes - it isnot designedor suitable formotorcars - itwas built witha four footedmode oftransport inmind. Thisdoesn’t ofcourse stopthe local peo-

ple from driving into the village, but it does mean there is very lit-tle traffic and that visitors should not attempt to find their way intothe maze of alleyways in cars. The 3 or 4 vans selling fresh fish dowriggle their way around the village though in the morningsshouting about the delights of the catch. “Come and get them -whitebait (gavros) - fat, fresh and delicious..”

One of the great pleasures in Glossa is getting lost, just wanderingaround experiencing the sights and sounds of a real place - a sliceof history and a piece of the modern day. The village is smallenough to do that without being lost for too long and there arethe two large beige coloured churches to navigate by if all elsefails!

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The Outer Village

The main road from Loutraki down to Skopelos skirts the south ofthe village and provides the first area of activity - the epicentre ofwhich is the sharp bend next to the lower church. This is also thebus stop and the main entrance into the village as Agios RiginosStreet leads off from here and is the busiest of the streets.

This main road section has the two petrol stations (one at eitherend), Polychronou’s hardware store, Yannis supermarket, KiraLeni’s bakery and café, To Stekki tou Mastora taverna and thechurch. Most of which are clustered 50 metres or so in each direction from the main corner.

Coming from Skopelos (just before reaching Glossa) you will firstsee the sign for the new Shell petrol station - this is just 50 metresoff the main road along the lane which leads to Ayios Yannis (thechurch on the rock). On the left is Platanos Pension - which hasrooms to rent. Shortly after this there is a road which forks sharplyto the right and upwards - this is the road that goes to the beachesof Perivoliou and Hondro Georgos. Just around the first cornerfrom this turn is Polychroniou’s hardware store which is just 2 sharp

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bends before the village proper begins with Yannis’s supermarketon the left and then Kira Leni’s bakery and café on the right. 10metres after the bakery is the turning to the right into the villageon Ag Riginos St., but the main road continues downwards afterthis hairpin bend, which also serves as the bus stop and taxi rank.To the left of the taxi rank is the charcoal grill restaurant “to Stekkitou Mastoras” and then the large church. Continuing down theslope you will find, behind the church, the car park, which is up aramp, then on the opposite side is the agricultural co-op (handyif you wish to buy a sack of chicken food or a bale of hay!), thenthe ELIN petrol station. And then the Skopelos Kayaking head-quarters which is opposite Kostas’s repair garage. After which theroad goes around a steep bend and continues on to Loutraki justhaving one café/bar (Piksadi) on the left before it leaves the vil-lage.

It should be noted that there is a small lane opposite Kira Lenibakery which is signposted as being both Atheato and Machala(same place different names! to create maximum confusion), thisgoes down to a tiny little hamlet of traditional houses, manyderelict, but nice to stroll around. Agalos’s repair garage is alsodown this lane.

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Agios Riginos Street

The main street leading up from the bus stop corner takes youinto the village proper and is named after the patron saint of theisland who was martyred in the 4th century AD. The first point ofinterest is immediately on the right, which is the periptero or kiosk,normally these are the street corner cabins but in this case it’s atiny shop, selling cigarettes, newspapers, sweets, drinks etc. Thereare then old donkey steps leading upwards before the next shopwhich is the Kontas family electrical shop (which also has an interesting selection of toys and novelty items as well as the electrical things you would expect). Continuing around the corneron the left is Vasillis’s art gallery and next to it a souvenir shop,and on the right a hairdressers should you feel in need of a trim.Next, on your now upwards journey, is Café Bar (and taverna)Maistrali on one side and the desserts, baked goods and homemade sweet things shop Nisiotissa on the opposite. Both are justbefore the village pharmacy on the left. In Greece the pharmacisthas a far bigger role to play and often diagnoses complaints asyou can buy most medicines here without a prescription.

After the pharmacy there is Karvelis bakery, desserts and café onthe right just before you get to the little square where Louki Souvlaki is. Louki means drainpipe or spout and just below it isone of the main springs in the village. It’s a nice little square to sitand watch village life go by and opposite is the town hall which inits white 1980’s built style dominates the area. This is where the doctors have a surgery and where Glossa administrative dealingsgo on. Just after it is the restaurant Agnanti and opposite that isa materials and clothes shop and the florist/plant shop. After Agnanti is Vangelis’s photography and print shop and from thenon you are in a residential part of town.

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Up to the main square

The second church of the village and the main square is up fromSt Riginos St. Just after Louki Souvlaki there is a steeply slopingside street going parallel with the road but upwards. It’s called Papadiamantis St. after the most famous writer from the SporadesIslands. Take this (past the other hairdressers ”Maria”) until you

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see the street sign Nirvana in front ofyou and turn right on to it.

Almost straight away you will be confronted by a jolly painted bluehouse with lots of pots of flowers anda lovely old Pithoi (clay urn). Go left at

this and then turn right behind it(still on Nirvana St). You will findthe tiny butchers shop IlliasSpirou on the corner. Turn leftthere and you will find yourselfgoing up to the square. There isa lane just before the square itself, if you turn left on to it youwill find a small supermarket, another Kira Leni bakery, a cigarette/sweet shop and aGlossa ladies collective sweetproduce shop, in the square isthe other large beige church andt h e

café/bar/taverna Ayra. This used to be,until last year, the Café Neon of the village where all the old guys hang outdrinking coffee and playing backgammon - worry beads rattlingaway - it’s now a more modern place butof course the old guys are still there andit’s a real piece of living history.

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If you continuestraight throughthe square and upa few steps youwill come on to another main lanethat traverses thevillage. Turn leftand in a few moments you willcome to a Pantapoleon (selleverything) shopwhich has

remained the same since the war - and it does sell everything!Continue walking in this direction and you will exit the village after5 minutes onto the small parking area and the road to the north-ernmost part of the island and the beaches around Perivoulio.However, if you turn right after the square you will come, within afew metres, to the Glossa Folk Museum and the small art galleryopposite it. After that is a tiny Pantapoleon, then the road trailsout at the top of the town.

The only other area with commercial activity is up the donkeysteps you encounter as you enter Ag Riginos Street. At the topyou will find Dimitris Supermarket and also Skiathitis Hardwareshop. Dimitris sells all the normal supermarket goods but Skiathitisis a modern wonder as you can find everything from goat bells toanchors to kettles and hats. Well actually you wouldn’t be able tofind anything as its piled high with boxes unopened for decades.Nicos the owner however, does, and if it’s not there he probablyhas the bits to make it!

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Glossa - FoodThe village has five tavernas/restaurants, all different and all goodin their own way, and 4 bakeries - some of which you can eat in.So, the tavernas/restaurants first.

To “Stekki tou Mastora”This is a souvla (rotisserie over charcoal) taverna and is situated on the corner at theentrance to the main village and is next toone of the 2 large churches in the village. Itsname means “the hangout of the masterbuilder” and is a humorous reference to thehearty food on offer. Georgos does a greattrade in his spit roasted meats and normallythere is lamb, chicken and pork on offer but sometimes goat orkokkoretsi too and his wife Evangelista cooks other dishes in theovens everyday (see the blackboard outside for specials), and prepares the salads etc. They have their own small farm just outside the village so often we are treated to their own handreared meat. It’s a great place to hang-out, as the name implies,as you see all the hustle of people passing by and arriving/leavingthe village and also the view is worth travelling for.

Open for breakfast and all day but the grill is only in the evenings.

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To “Stekki tou Mastora”

Café bar “Maistrali”

Café bar “Maistrali”From the corner where To Stekki is you takethe main lane, (Ayios Riginos St), up into thevillage and after some 100 metres on yourleft you will see the sign for this rooftop establishment. Climbing the stairs you willfind yourself with yet another staggeringview across the Aegean and a choice ofhome cooked Greek staple dishes. Also operates as a bar and/or a café. A cool place to sit on the warmerdays of summer.

“Louki” SouvlakiContinuing up the hill you come to the minisquare where “Louki” is situated. This is atraditional Greek souvlaki place serving foodeither on a plate or wrapped in pitta breadand salads, tzatsiki, chips etc. An affordableand tasty meal, or a snack, or just a drink inthis hub of the village enables you to see allthe comings and goings of local life. Iyotaand Illias run this excellent and friendly littleplace.

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“Agnanti”This destination eatery is situated just pastLouki 30 metres along the road and has a refined take on Greek food - it is a restaurantas opposed to a taverna. Its newly openedroof terraces are stunning places to eat in theevening and the whole building has a lovelytraditional/modern decor. Nicos’s familyhave been running Agnanti for 60 years’ nowand have established it as a “must visit” restaurant. Also there isa bar/cafe and Agnanti is open all day from 11am onwards.

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”Ayra”Between “Louki” and “Agnanti”there is a slope leading off upwards and this is the directionto take to get up to the mainsquare of Glossa where thiscafé/bar/taverna is situated. Thereare only two big churches in the

village and so it’s easy to find your way looking for the church andits spire/cross and “Ayra” is right next to the top church. It’s theold café neon of the village which has just been refurbished intoa modern café with food. The old men still gather outside to playbackgammon and cards but a young couple now run it and it giveslife to this lovely village centre. A roof terrace tavern is plannedfor the near future.

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Bakeries/CafeIn Greece the bakery is the centre of village life, and until recently(well I remember it happening in the 80’s) most homes didn’t havetheir own oven and the ladies would bring their trays of food forbaking - to the baker to use up the residual heat in his ovens tocook their homemade food. Nowadays this doesn’t happen butpeople buzz in and out all the time to pick up cheese (Skopelosspeciality) or spinach pies, sandwiches, sesame bread rings(kalourhi) or sweet desserts, apple pies and all manner of fancycakes. Also some bakeries act as café/ bars too and provide a veryeconomical place for a cold beer or a coffee.

In Glossa there are three full-blown bakeries and a pies and sweetsshop.

Kira Leni (Aunty Helen’s)This is a wood fired bakery with a vast range of products fromhome made liquors to pickled samphire. They make their ownpasta and marmalades and just about everything. There are 2branches in Glossa, one on the main road near the bus stop cornerand the other up in the village near the main square. The lowerone is also a café and serves from breakfast time onwards.

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KarvelisHalfway up the main street leading up into the village is this newlyextended Karvelis bakery. Now its new shiny shop next to the original bakery sells a large range of colourful cakes and sweetsetc as well as the usual range of baked goods. Greeks are greatgift givers and you will often see cakes and boxes of sweets beingpurchased to acknowledge just about any occasion they candream up!

They also have a shop in Loutraki.

Café PiksadaOn the road down towards Loutraki just around the first big bendis the cafeteria Piksada. It has a large terrace with a spectacularview.

NisiotissaOn the main street this newly opened shop/café does homemadepies, sweets ,desserts, preserves, etc.

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LoutrakiThe port of Glossa

Loutraki (meaning little mineral spring or bathing place) has beenoccupied for thousands of years and under the name Selinous -or Selenounda - the Romans had a complex of baths here andthere are the remains of a temple and an agora still visible. Thereis an information area at the end of the seafront but not a lot tosee in reality.

Its more recent history was as shipbuilding with the wooden boatslaunched into the calm waters of bay, and as it still is, a port serving Glossa itself and the north of the island.

It’s a quiet, sleepy place though punctuated by the bustle of arrivals and departures of ferries and is a haven for yachts and fishermen, providing a tranquil harbour for all.

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towards Perivoliou

Parking & Maritime Museumfo

otp

ath

to L

outr

aki

A. Parking

B. Supermarkets/pantapoleon

C. Churches

D. Taxi station

E. Taxi station

F. Pharmacy

G. Town Hall

H. Blue House

SKOPELOS

LOUTRAKI

Food

1. To Stekki Tou Masteras

2. Maistrali

3. Louki

4. Agnanti

5. Ayra

Bakeries/Cafés

6. Kira Leni

7. Nisiotissa

8. Karvelis

9. Ladies Co-op

Museums

10. Folk

11. Painting

Other

12. Souvenirs

13. Clothes

14. Plants

15. Photo/print

16. Hairdressers

17. Butchers

Most of the rooms (and apartments) to rent and the small hotelsin the area are based here and there are 3 cafes, 4 tavernas and abar/nightclub currently operating as well as ticket offices, car hire,a small supermarket and a bakery serving those that stay andthose who are passing through.

It is an adjunct of Glossa and the two are separated by a few minutes drive or a steep climb up the ancient Kalderimi – stonepaved path - which is a beautiful way to go for those with stronglegs as Glossa is situated some 250 metres above Loutraki.

Many locals use the long flat beach for a swim as it’s convenientand it’s also something you can fit in between dropping peopleoff/collecting people from the boats. But in general Loutraki hasthe lazy day air of a place not to be rushed.

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Getting around

I defy anyone to get lost in Loutraki which is one main street leading down to the seafront, which goes both left and right, andthen some small alleyways leading off them. At the bottom of theroad coming down from Glossa you suddenly find yourself in themain area of Loutraki. There is a supermarket, Klimataria taverna,a bakery (Karvelis), the Hellenic Seaways ticket office, Dream Carsand then the 2 cafes as you enter the port, one on either side ofthe road, Skippers and Aramis all within 30 metres. As you passthese you enter the enormous roundabout of the port where thebus stop/taxi rank is and you can turn left into the parking area(and if you continue for another 100 meters you will reach Petrinocafé/bar), or turn right and carry on around to where the two waterside taverna’s are or go straight forward to the embarkationarea at the end of the dock.

The only slightly tricky findamongst the shops etc is the second ticket office which thisyear sells the tickets for ANESLines Proteus ferry. It’s situatedup an alley between Skipperscafé and the wooden periptero(cigarettes and sweets etc cabin).Here’s a picture of the office justin case!

In Greece you have to go to sep-arate offices to buy tickets for different shipping lines so beaware and check on an independent site such aswww.openseas.gr for which boat is best for you.

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Eating in Loutraki

Turn right onto the port roundabout - then carry on round the corner to the right past the Church of St Nicholas (above) and youwill see the two waterfront taverna’s next to each other, namelyFlisvos and Amirali. Perched atop the sea with the waves slappingagainst their wall, not surprisingly they do a lot of seafood andYannis at the long established “Flisvos” often catches things fromthe restaurant itself. I have seen him pull octopus and even seabass straight out of the water. They both do the normally widerange of oven based and grilled foods though with salads andmeats as well as the produce of their other close neighbour (thesea!)

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Flisvos

Amirali

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In the Main Street is the more meat oriented taverna of Loutraki,namely Klimataria, which is known as Kostas’s to the locals. Thisis more of a grill place, but especially in the summer has a widerrepertoire and has a garden out at the back and a few tables onthe opposite side of the main drag

Above Loutraki on the road back up to Glossa is also the AegeanWaves Hotel which boasts a restaurant, open to non-guests too,which has a special view across the port and over to Skiathos Island.

Café Aramis have just opened a taverna next to their café too. Itsells the normal mix of fish, salads, oven baked foods etc.

Café/Bar/Snacks

The two cafes on either side of theroad coming down to the port areSkippers on one side and Aramis onthe other. Open all day (and evening)long for a wide selections of every-thing you could require from such anestablishment. Also through the carparking area and down the bay to thesouth is Café/ Bar Petrino, which is byitself and away from the occasional

bustle of the port.

In the other directionpast the church andthrough the two taverna’s on the waterfront is the roadto the night club/barGlistra which opensuntil late.

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The Surrounding Area

The countryside, coastline and nature of Northern Skopelos is trulystunning. It is peaceful, beautiful and with a remarkable diversityof flora and fauna compared to the traditional idea of how a Greekisland should be. Also, man has left his mark too, with churches,chapels, monasteries, villages and of course the lighthouse atCape Girouni (the Cape of Pig!).

Coming from the low lying, and relatively new village of Elios, theroad climbs upwards towards Glossa and the first point of interestis the turning for Armenopetra/Kalives beaches. This is a windingtrack going steeply - and bumpily - down, eventually ending at aparking area where you will find the two beaches. Kalives beach,which faces south, is hardly there anymore - possibly dredging outto sea has caused erosion - but on the other side facing northwest is Armenopetra (navigation rock) beach which is a good sizeand terminated at the impressive large, white, craggy rock whichgives the beach its name. It’s a wild beach with no sunbeds etcbut as it’s north-west facing it has choppy water if the wind is highfrom the NW.

Back on to the main road just a 100 metres further on is a petrolstation which is noteworthy mainly for its café where you can drink,smoke and eat with a magnificent view which is a fairly unique experience in a filling station!

Continuing on towards Glossa soon brings you to the old ruinedvillage of Paleo Klima, which is divided into 3 parts. This lovelyold hill village was devastated by an earthquake in 1965 and theinhabitants moved down to what is now Elios leaving their ownvillage deserted.

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It has provided a number of holiday homes now though which areinterspersed with still derelict properties and although there area handful of full time residents there are no shops or facilities ofany kind. It’s a nice walk through. If you take the second entrancejust after the sharp right bend and walk down through the villagesand up the other side ofthe valley on the oldkalderimi (cobbled path)you come to the charming church with itswrought iron spire. Youcan then either continueup to the main road orretrace your steps. Orwalk the marked trailleading down toLoutraki.

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Back on the road and fast approaching Glossa you will see a largesign for a Shell station. You really can not miss it as it’s rather outof scale with its surroundings. It does, however, make the turningto the church of Ayios Yannis sto Kastri unmissable! This landmarkhas been made famous the world over by the film Mamma Miaand rightly so, it is indeed a very special place. And it is normallynot crowded - unless you are unlucky enough to coincide with aninfrequent group visit !

This road goes only to the church and reaches it in about 8 minutes. You catch a glimpse of the setting on the way down - asyou pass the more modern church of Panagia - and it is a stunningview down the east coast of the island with the towering rock rising out of the sea topped by the white church.

When you reach the base the added bonus is a mobile Kantinawith covered seating area and the fact there is a very lovely littlebeach, Spilia, just next to it (and along the path) to cool off whenyou descend the steps. It’s about 100 metres up to the church sodepending if you are fit or not it’s either a nice climb or a bit of astruggle. The steps and handrails are adequate though and it’snot the wild adventure that many people claim but it is harder inthe heat of the day.

There are many legends about the churches origins and that ofthe hermits cave next to it too but the one thing for sure is it’s notexactly as it appeared in the film. The film folk in their wisdom decided it was too small for cinematographic reasons so built achurch over the top of it (in wood) and then of course removed alltrace of it afterwards.

The church is lovely though and its setting is divine. In many waysit’s like a miniature version of the magnificent monasteries of Meteora just over on the mainland. But the location is equally

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enthralling if not on the same scale. A must visit.

Back to the main road via the Shell station and just 50 metresdown the road is the turning for the north east of the island. It’s asharp fork up to the right and the main sign posting is for Perivoliou which is a beautiful cove beach. This area is one ofsteep valleys lined with Chestnut, Walnut and Plane trees, Olivegroves and Pine woods. Koukinares (Pine Nut trees) punctuate thelandscape - as do tall straight Cypresses giving the place an almost Tuscan feel. Orchards abound with plums, cherries, quincesand figs and vineyards and tiny gardens near springs can be seen.This area has been populated for many thousands of years andrecently, with the decline in rural life, many of the small cottageshave been abandoned leaving only churches and ruins to markwhere scattered villages once were.

Taxiachon monastery is the first point of interest on this road. Atiny but beautiful walled courtyard with a perfect bijou chapel withicons. It features monk’s cells with the old study chairs outside anda perfect example of a Skopiliti corner fireplace. Outside, set into

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the wall, is an ossuary – a bone house - in the Greek tradition ofexhumation - but it hasn’t been used for many years!

There are dozens of small charming chapels dotted around thearea all commemorating different saints and coming alive on theirname day every year.

Continuing on the road through the countryside you will eventually come to a “T” junction after descending a long windinghill. Here you can turn left to Perivoulio beach or right to HondroGeorgos beach. If you turn right on to the dirt road you can eitherstop at the beach or continue through the hills and the dirt roadwill bring you back to Glossa village. Hondro Georgos (it meansfat George!) beach is a series of little coves and has easy accessas parking is quite close to sea level. Excellent for snorkeling.

To the left and you come to Perivoulio beach which is a beautifulsteep cove not unlike those found in Cornwall (UK). As with all thecoastline the water is crystal clear and varies from green to blue.

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There are some other coves around this area but some are veryhidden and most require the climbing prowess of a goat like nature to reach them. Perivoliou sometimes has sunbed hire on itbut that doesn’t spoil its wild feeling.

Just before reaching the parking area of Perivoliou is a dirt trackleading to the left. This is the road that goes along to the light-house. An interesting route as it starts in pine forest and thenemerges into real coastal maquis scrubland. Past some ancientruins and some wild rugged areas the road stops at the lighthousewhere the keeper is often available for a chat or maybe even atour. The current lighthouse is quite pleasing architecturally as itwas built in the neoclassic style that was prevalent 100 years agoand in fact it celebrates its centenary in 2014.

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Flora and Fauna

In the middle season of the summer there are not so many flowersto see but for the rest of the year the North of Skopelos island isawash with colour as everything from wild daffodils and gladiolito whole fields of orchids appear. The large bee population makesgreat use of this and so do the locals who make the best honeyfrom the bees labours. The tradition of picking wild greens andherbs from the hillsides also prevails as crops of wild asparagus,sorrel, spinach and milk thistle are all collected and consumed withgreat relish.

Many of the birds that are seen here are migratory, such as thelarge colourful flocks of Bee Eaters and the crested Hoopoes.Some remain to breed like the fast and elegant Elenora’s falconswhich swoop like darts around the hillsides. And the swallowswhich dip for water from the swimming pools. Then we have rarevisitors like the short-toed eagles that come from the mainlandand the permanent population of large swooping buzzards - whichrotate around on the thermal winds looking for a lizard to dropon.

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On the ground the most common site is the European Hedgehogand the furry Beech Marten (kounavi) scurrying off the road atnight and Hares racing in front of you during the day. The BalkanGreen Lizard can also be spotted as the vibrant coloured reptiledarts off the road.

The sea off this north east coast in front of Pervoulio beach becomes a marine park as it approaches the neighbouring islandof Alonissos and is a haven for the endangered European MonkSeal. The park, which is the largest in Europe, is also home to largeschools of dolphins that are regularly seen all around NorthernSkopelos. Passing through, although rarely spotted, are also PilotWhales and Loggerhead Turtles. But most of the sea life you willsee is either by snorkelling or on the menu in the tavernas.

Where as the cats are everywhere!

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To Stay..

Glossa itself doesn’t have a hotel, there is one rooms to let placeand the rest is taken up by villa rentals. Loutraki though has severalhotels and lots of rooms and apartments.

Two local companies deal in villa rentals.

www.aegeanescapes.com

www.glossa -houses.com

www.hotelselenunda.com

http://www.aegeanwave.com

Pension Platana (Glossa) 24240 33188

Rania studios 24240 33710

Orfanos rooms 6981890623

Ravenos Apartments 6976244293

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Other things to do..

The pleasure and charm of this area is normally found in just absorbing the atmosphere and experiencing life in this part of“real” Greece. But there are a few things to do as well as tour thearea, eat the food, swim off the beaches, snorkel etc etc.

One of the best ways of exploring this wonderful coastline is bykayak and Glossa is the home of Skopelos Kayaking, which is runby a qualified English instructor. They do hold proper trainingcourses and qualification courses but for most of the summer theydo trips catering for all levels of ability from young children toolder paddlers. Sunset excursions of a few hours or half day orwhole days spent paddling to some of the islets, caves, inlets andbeaches that the land locked never get to see. Double boats areavailable so people who can’t paddle at all can still get to experience the beautiful turquoise waters at close hand.

There is a system of ancient kalderimis (cobbled roads) andmonopati (footpaths) in the area and many these are now markedwith signs. Also there are organized walking parties around the island and books describing the trails available to those who wishto explore on foot.

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The Glossa Folk Museum is openin July and August from 10.00-13.00 and 18.00-21.00. It is a verytypical old Glossa house kept inoriginal style with a display of thecostumes worn by islanders forweddings etc.

Opposite is a permanent displayof the work of the Glossa bornartist Alexandros D Sideris whoemigrated to New York and madehis name there. He died in 1978but his family maintain a house inGlossa to this day.

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Also there is another museum, mainly about boats and the maritime history, hidden away. Its website is www.hellenic-foun-dation.gr and if you head north along the lane from the Folk Mu-seum after about 100 metres you will come to a brown stonehouse which is obviously unoccupied. Turn sharp right there thenafter 20 metres look up the steep lane to your left you will see theGreek flag which marks this museum.

Every August there is a Glossa festival of arts featuring music, theatre, dancing and art. Usually there is a well known Greeksinger headlining and some local talent and then a last night freeconcert in Loutraki with free wine. It’s normally well attended andworth the effort to see if you are here. Its so well organized thereis even transport from Skopelos Town and Skiathos laid on!

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Getting here

Glossa’s port Loutraki is just 20 minutes’ from the port of ourneighbouring island Skiathos which means that while Skiathostakes the brunt of most of the tourism its airport brings, Glossa isstill accessible from the airport - but is protected. Skiathos hasflights from many European cities.

Otherwise there are ferries and flying cat hydrofoils from the main-land at Volos (which has its own airport and also via Thessaloniki)and Ayios Konstantinos which is the departure point for visitorscoming from Athens.

www.alkyontravel.gr arrange coach/ferry transfers from Athens

Also there is an Olympic Air flight from Athens to Skiathos everyday at a very affordable price.

Once on the island there is a regular bus service between the villages, car hire or the local taxi’s. The boat journey from Loutrakito Skopelos town is about 30 minutes or longer for ferries.

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Useful Numbers

Taxi drivers (local)

Dimitris 6978025718

Yannis 6944734024

Stamatis 6988544272

Panayotis 6979031303

Local doctor Glossa 24240 33 504

24 hr medical centre (Skopelos Town)

24240 22 222 (22739) or (22592)

Police 24240 22235

Travel agent (Hellenic Seaways) 24240 33435(33042)

Travel agent (ANES line) 24240 34335

Dream cars 24240 33977

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SKOPELOSholidays.com

“The North of Skopelos Island is a haven of unspoiled Greece.

The traditional hill village of Glossa, with its spectacular views,

is at the centre of this area of verdant countryside, beautiful

coastline and ageless churches and villages. It’s a slice of the

real Greece.”