From Marlene to Marilyn: Glamour and Desire on the Silver Screen

Rachel Park, Bryn Mawr College ’10History & Classical StudiesSeptember 1, 2008

Overview: Summer 2008 Katharine Houghton Hepburn Center

My internship at the National Portrait Gallery

Resources Main concepts/themes Impact on contemporary culture

Internship at the Smithsonian’s National Portrait

Gallery in Washington, D.C.

Assisted Smithsonian cultural historian, Amy Henderson, whose past exhibits include “Kate: One Life,” and “Red, Hot & Blue”

Researched Hollywood glamour during the Golden Era (1920s-1950s)

Studied the key actors during that time, the studio system, the concept of glamour and its implications in American culture

What I enjoyed

Staff at NPG and the Smithsonian at large expressed how much they appreciated and valued their interns

Truly felt that my work was making a meaningful contribution

Hands-on experience Experience pulled many of my interests together:

fashion, film, cultural history

Resources

Books from the National Portrait Gallery/Smithsonian American Art Museum library (and through interlibrary loan)

Kobal Collection online Films during that time period Newsreels at the National Archives in College Park and the James Madison

building of the Library of Congress flatbed viewing machines

Resources

In addition to newsreels, screened Paramount on Parade (1930), The Voice of Hollywood, and Screen Snapshots

--> feature films/film magazines/“celebrity newsreels” that featured popular stars

ProQuest database searches through the following historical newspapers: Atlanta

Constitution (1868-1939), Boston Globe (1872-1925), Chicago Tribune (1849-1986), Christian Science Monitor (1908-1995), Los Angeles Times (1881-1986), The New York Times (1851-2005), The Wall Street Journal (1889-1991), and The Washington Post (1877-1992)

Life magazine (1940s) Photoplay on microfilm (1912-1917)

Key actors and actresses: Glamour

Marlene Dietrich (1901-1992) “Legs” Sustained her image of glamour

throughout her lengthy career

Greta Garbo (1905-1990) “The Face,” “The Swedish Sphinx” Has continued to fascinate

audiences worldwide for her

reclusive, aloof nature

Glamour Gary Cooper (1901-1961)

Primarily known for his role in Westerns

Was able to uphold public interest due to his wide range of films, including Sergeant York, The Pride of the Yankees, and High Noon

Dolores del Rio (1905-1983) First Mexican actress to hit it

big in Hollywood Her natural beauty and her

“exoticism” were selling points

Glamour

Cary Grant (1904-1986) The quintessential dashing hero Had excellent comedic timing

Fred Astaire (1899-1987) and Ginger Rogers (1911-1995)

The dynamic duo that brought glamour back onto the screens of Depression-era America

Represented love through the art of song and dance

Glamour

Humphrey Bogart (1899-1957) The definition of sexy

masculinity and moral integrity

Desire

Gloria Swanson (1897-1983) The silent screen vamp Showcased glamour on and off

screen the ultimate “clotheshorse”

Rudolph Valentino (1895-1926) First major male sex symbol of film Combination of sensitivity and virility –

duality of character was very appealing

Desire

Clark Gable (1901-1960) “The King” of the box office Rugged and handsome: the

mustache was essential

Jean Harlow (1911-1937) “The Platinum Blonde” – her

hair set a trend that millions of women would follow

Had a magnetic screen presence, which many attributed to her “honesty”

Desire

Carole Lombard (1908-1942) The woman who could mix glitz

and humor

Joan Crawford (1906-1977) Started off as a flapper girl, but was

determined to be a star

Desire

Veronica Lake (1919-1973) Most well-known for her“peekaboo” hairstyle, which had a tremendous effect on the hair industry

Marlon Brando (1924-2004) Was part of a new wave of “method acting,” which was touse real-life experiences and emotionsas inspiration for the film

Desire

Elizabeth Taylor (1932) Has been called the last great star

James Dean (1931-1955) Was able to induce conflicted

feelings in the viewer with his

portrayal of morally ambivalent characters

Desire Marilyn Monroe (1926-1962)

“The Blonde Bombshell” who transfixed the nation with her unabashed sex appeal, but level of vulnerability as well

Pinups During WWII

Betty Grable (1916-1973) the ultimate pinup

Rita Hayworth (1918-1987) in 1941 Life

Influence on American culture

Lake’s hairstyle, Harlow’s hair, Dietrich’s pants Hollywood glamour flourished during the

Depression, when people wanted to escape their daily hardships and live variously through the stars followed every fad and trend Automobiles and dining out were outward

expressions of the stars’ refined lifestyles

Androgynous Appeal

Dietrich in Morocco: famous scene where she sings dressed in a tuxedo

Dean in Rebel Without a Cause: His “delicate” features appealed to both men and women

Transformation of Stars/Contradictions

Rita Hayworth’s hairline was raised via electrolysis and her hair was dyed to look “less Latin”; Gable’s ears were surgically corrected because they were too big

Aim for perfection, but allure lays in imperfection: Monroe’s signature look was the “just-got-out-of-bed” look, but even this image was carefully constructed (Fox, 86)

Stars were like divinities, but attempt to humanize them

Idea of Beauty Picture from the 1937 film, A Star

Is Born, which shows two men drawing on a woman’s face to “reshape” her brows stars began to look the same

1920s flapper girl 1930s exotic, yet natural: In the

early 1930s, Crawford’s heavy eye make-up was widely imitated, but in the September 1933 issue of Photoplay, natural beauty was hailed.

1940s pinup 1950s sex symbol

Harlow’s platinum blonde hair Rita Hayworth’s red hair Hedy Lamarr’s raven hair

Motifs

Stars and Cars Big cat Furs and feathers On the town – night clubs (El Morocco, Ciro’s) , restaurants (Romanoff’s,

The Brown Derby) At play – Santa Anita races, poolside, informal “at-homes,” boats and trains,

tennis, skiing, golfing

Magic Makers

Wardrobe, lighting, make-up, and cinematography helped make the star

Max Factor’s idea of beauty: “The beauty calibrator”

Karl Struss Swanson in Male and

Female (1919)

Magic Makers:Fashion Designers Adrian – 1932 dress

worn by Crawford

Travis Banton – designed costumes for Dietrich in The Devil is a Woman (1935)

Magic Makers: Photographers

Dennis Stock: 1955 James Dean in Indiana

George Hurrell: 1941 Veronica Lake

Impact on contemporary culture

Express newspaper in Washington D.C., 7/2/08 issue: Discussed Armani fall-winter 2008-2009 collection, and cited the influence of Hollywood decadence “Shades of earlier Hollywood heroines like Katharine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich ran through his collection of tailored jackets with razor-sharp shoulders and goddess gowns glistening with beads” (p. 31).

NY Times audio feature published on 7/27/08: “On the Street: The Appeal of the Heel,” by Bill Cunningham revival of high heels with short skirts or shorts, reminiscent of Betty Grable, “no one could care less” attitude in the City

“Women In Film” video (Google Docs) on the transformation of women in film

Sources

Hayworth on cover slide: http://www.tcf.ua.edu/Classes/Jbutler/T577/Students/RitaFace.jpg (8/14/08)

Sources

Dietrich: http://www.humanesocietyny.org/auction/images/index-photo07.jpg (8/5/08) Garbo: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/75/171481871_7467da1339.jpg?v=0 (8/5/08) Del Rio:

http://bp1.blogger.com/_CLu8_jFPNZ4/Rf83bUN_w3I/AAAAAAAAAIA/rHcrc-J9LjY/s1600-h/Delores+Del+Rio12.jpg (8/5/08)

Cooper: http://www.staleywise.com/collection/steichen/steichen_gary_cooper_b.jpg (8/5/08) Grant:

http://www.bfi.org.uk/education/teaching/screendreams/images/postcards_grant_450.jpg (8/5/008)

Fred and Ginger: http://bp0.blogger.com/_VkZbqqaJEtQ/RkPYhbmW0oI/AAAAAAAAAtA/Fq-uX8TPbnQ/s1600-h/fred.bmp (8/5/08)

Bogie: http://www.filmsquish.com/guts/files/images/Annex%20-%20Bogart,%20Humphrey%20(Maltese%20Falcon,%20The)_02.jpg (8/5/08)

Swanson: http://jasonlandry.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/steichen.jpg (8/5/08) Valentino: http://www.altfg.com/Stars/actorsv/valentino-rudolph-1.jpg (8/5/08) Harlow:

http://www.allaboutshoes.ca/images/common/heights_of_fashion/fantasies_big_screen/1.jpg (8/5/08)

Gable: http://www.theothersideofkim.com/images/uploads/2007files/clark_gable18.jpg (8/5/08)

Sources Lombard:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd164/iamericamag/1920s%20sirens/carole_lombard_1313.jpg (8/5/08)

Crawford: http://images.scripting.com/archiveScriptingCom/2006/02/27/youngCrawfordBig.jpg (8/5/08)

Lake: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1192/1383365761_3a4f4e66ab.jpg?v=0 (8/5/08) Brando:

http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/pic/54/039_4032~Marlon-Brando-Posters.jpg (8/5/08)

Taylor: http://artfiles.art.com/images/-/Elizabeth-Taylor-Photograph-C12145909.jpeg (8/5/08) Dean: http://www.cinematical.com/images/2005/09/james%20dean2.jpg (8/5/08) Monroe:

http://www.gallerym.com/images/work/big/associated%20press_marilyn_monroe_seven_yr_itch_L.jpg (8/5/08)

Hayworth: http://www.tcf.ua.edu/Classes/Jbutler/T577/Students/RitaPinup.jpg (8/14/08) Grable: http://history.sandiego.edu/gen/ww2Timeline/images2/1943.jpg (8/5/08) Lamour: http://history.sandiego.edu/gen/ww2Timeline/images2/lamour1.jpg (8/5/08) Turner:

http://www.seraphicpress.com/images/Lana%20Turner,%20They%20Won't%20Forget.jpg (8/12/08)

Sheridan: http://www.ipacific.com/shop/photography/hurrell/08AnnSheridan.jpg (8/5/08)

Sources “Androgynous appeal”

Dietrich: http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z297/GreenAmbassador/Green%20Ambassador%20Weed/Canna%20Embassy%20art/marlene_dietrich1.jpg (8/11/08)

Dean: http://www.vafilm.com/images/FilmFest07/rebel.JPG (8/14/08) “Transformation of Stars/Contradictions”

Rita Hayworth: Basinger, Jeanine. The Star Machine. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2007. 42

Fox, Patty. Star Style: Hollywood Legends as Fashion Icons. Santa Monica: Angel City Press, Inc., 1995. 86.

Cary Grant cooking from Kobal Collection online: photo ref. XGR004ML (8/14/08) “Idea of Beauty”

A Star Is Born: Basinger, The Star Machine, p. 40

“Motifs” Jean Harlow from Kobal collection online: photo ref. CA002FF Santa Anita races from Kobal collection online: photo ref. XDE027CA

Sources “Magic Makers”

“The Beauty Calibrator”: http://cache.viewimages.com/xc/3065333.jpg?v=1&c=ViewImages&k=2&d=32F168F2F013CA9AFFA45C14C2D93F44A55A1E4F32AD3138 (8/11/08)

Swanson in Male and Female: Kobal, John. The Art of the Great Hollywood Portrait Photographers: 1925-1940. New York: Harrison House, 1987. 74. (8/14/08)

Adrian: http://static.flickr.com/47/179512788_e9296c2c95.jpg (8/11/08) Travis Banton: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/thehollywoodcollection/md643.jpg

(8/11/08) Stock, Dennis. James Dean: Fifty Years Ago. New York: Harry N. Abrams,

Inc. 2005. 43. George Hurrell:

http://www.ipacific.com/shop/photography/hurrell/06VeronicaLake.jpg (8/11/08)

“Impact on contemporary culture”“The Appeal of the Heel” feature:

http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2008/07/27/fashion/street-multimedia-3/index.html (2:15 mins - 2:07 mins)

“Women In Film” video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEc4YWICeXk