France’s Oldest Spirit

WHAT IS ARMAGNAC? Armagnac is a grape based spirit, produced in the heart of the Gascony region in South West France. It is France’s oldest spirit, predating its more famous rival, Cognac, by 150 years. Armagnac was born out of the convergence of three cultures: the Romans, who introduced the vine to the region, the Arabs who invented the alembic still and the Celts who brought the Barrel used for aging. 700 YEARS OF TRADITION Records indicate that Armagnac was being produced as far back as the 14th Century. Even then, Armagnac was recognized for its healing benefits, and in 1310, Prior Vital Dufour, a doctor and Ordained Cardinal, living in the city of Eauze, wrote ‘The 40 Virtues of Armagnac,’ a treatise on medicine that is now preserved in the Vatican. Next year will mark the 700-year anniversary of that text. However, Armagnac was not only appreciated for its therapeutic qualities, but for its quality as well, as it gained in sales between the 15th and 17th centuries. The 18th and 19th centuries saw a growth in both the national and the export markets as transport through the ports of Bordeaux (the nearest major port town) became viable. In August 6, 1936 the spirit of Armagnac was granted Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée status (at the same time that Cognac was granted its own AOC). Production rules were laid down and the three regions of Bas-Armagnac, Armagnac-Ténarèze, and Haut-Armagnac were designated. PRODUCTION IN THE REGION Today the vineyards designated for Armagnac production cover 9,143 acres. There are 800 producers (500 of which are independent while the remaining 300 are cooperatives, with a total annual production of around 6 million bottles per year.) THE ARMAGNAC APPELLATION The region experiences an ideal climate for viticulture: long, warm springs; hot, humid summers; long, sunny autumns followed by short and relatively mild winters. The Appellation is comprised of 3 terroirs, each with its own appellation. In addition, a regional Armagnac Appellation is used for spirits that are produced in more than one of the three regions. In 2005, a new AOC was introduced for ‘Le Blanche’, a clear, un-aged Armagnac spirit that does not undergo any aging in barrel. THE THREE TERROIRS Bas-Armagnac: The region furthest west has a relatively flat terrain. The soil is a mix of sand with iron-rich pockets, known as ‘Tawny Sands’, with some areas of boulbènes, a rock-like mix of sand and clay.

The Bas-Armagnac is thought to produce the finest quality Armagnacs with the most elegance and finesse and accounts for 57% of production. Armagnac-Tenarèze: lies to the east of Bas-Armagnac, the rolling hills of this region account for approximately 40% of the vineyards producing Armagnac. The soils typically consist of boulbenes or a clay-limestone soil, and the spirit produced here is full bodied, and typically requires longer aging to reach maturity. Haut-Armagnac: is the region furthest to the east. This region accounts for only 3% percentage of Armagnac vineyards, as the warmer weather and limestone soils are better suited for producing good quality, value-driven still wines, usually bearing the label Vin de Pays de Cotes de Gascogne. THE GRAPES OF ARMAGNAC In a marked contrast to Cognac, which relies heavily on the Ugni Blanc grape, most Armagnac is produced from a blend of four grape varieties permitted in the appellation: Ugni Blanc, Baco Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard. This variety offers Armagnac producers a range of options in their blending decision. Ugni-Blanc (aka, Italy’s Trebbiano) produces wines with high acidity and low alcohol, making it ideal for distillation. It gives a high quality eau-de-vie and contributes body and weight to the blend. Ugni-Blanc represents 50% of the distillation in the region. Baco Blanc (Baco 22A) is the only hybrid allowed in the French AOC system. It produces wines that are very high in acidity and low in sugar, and is especially well suited to the sandy soils of Bas Armagnac. The spirits from Baco tend to be round and rich with subtle aromatics and a long finish, typically showing their best after 10-12 years of aging. Baco accounts for 40% of the wine destined for distillation Folle Blanche is also known as Picquepolt, or ‘lip stinger’, which suggests its highly acidic nature. It was the most planted grape variety in the area before the arrival of phylloxera, but, due to its difficulty in grafting post-phylloxera, it now accounts for only 5% of the region’s plantings. Folle Blanche creates spirits with floral and fruity notes that show best in their youth. Colombard is better known for producing still wines in the area due to its ability to achieve higher sugar levels. Colombard is responsible for around 2% of the wine destined for distillation. In a blend it contributes fruit, spice and vegetal nuances. DISTILLATION After a traditional vinification (addition of sulphur is prohibited by AOC law), the naturally low-alcohol base wines (between 8 – 10% ABV) remain in contact with their lees until they go into the loader vat for distillation.

95% of production in Armagnac is carried out using a type of continuous still known as the Alembic Armagnacais. The remaining 5% use a pot stills, a system used in Cognac.

The Alembic Armagnacais is a high-efficiency still which typically produces Armagancs at alcohol levels between 52 – 60% ABV. The lower distillation strength yields a spirit rich in flavor compounds. With age, this ‘fiery’ spirit will mature to develop a wide range of aromas and flavors. The spirit comes off the still crystal clear. With aging in oak barrels, mostly sourced from the local Monlezun oak forests in Gascony, it will gain color and complexity.

MATURATION OF ARMAGNAC The eau de vie goes into new 400 liter oak barrels for a minimum of 6 months and up to 2 years. The spirit is then moved into older barrels to continue its aging. During its maturation in barrel, Armagnac extracts tannins, aromatic compounds and color from the barrel. Extended maturation softens the spirit, while a 2% evaporation of the spirit, know as ‘Angels Share’ will enrich the aromas and concentrate the spirit. With time, rancio notes begin to develop, and the color gains depth. STYLES OF ARMAGNAC Armagnac comes in a range of styles, from blended to single vintage, dating back decades. There is an Armagnac out there to suit everyone’s individual palate. How to read an Armagnac Label: VS, XXX + 1 year in oak VSOP + 4 years in oak XO + 5 years in oak Hors D’Age + 10 years in oak 25 year + 25 years in oak Vintage Single Harvest (minimum 10 years old)

TASTING ARMAGNAC The ideal serving temperatures is around 72F. Warming the glass in your hand helps to release the aromas. Gently coat the sides of the glass to increase the area of evaporation then bring your nose to the edge of the glass and breath in slowly. The first smell will contain the most volatile aromas, but once those aromas are released, more nuanced notes will come forth, based on the maturity and age of the spirit. Younger spirits typically show more ripe fruit, floral and spice notes, while the older spirits exhibit notes of brioche, baked apple, patisserie and vanilla. With additional aging dried fruits, animal notes and rancio notes come into play. KEY DIFFERENCES BETWEEN ARMAGNAC AND COGNAC Armagnac… History: …is 150 years older Climate: …is warmer and sunnier with less ocean influence

Grapes: …uses 4 varieties instead 1 in Cognac

Distillation: …uses a single distillation for a more flavorful spirit

Oak: …uses mostly local Gascony oak

Vintages: … are more prevalent in Armagnac

Value: …is often a better value at similar quality level

Production: …is more artisanal and from smaller estates

Sales: … sells 6.7 million bottles annually (vs. 160 million in Cognac)

Markets: … exports 40% of its production (versus 94% in Cognac)

ENJOYING ARMAGNAC: THE PLEASURE OF DIVERSITY There is an Armagnac to suit everyone’s individual taste. Next time, consider an Armagnac for one of these occasions: -On the rocks or as a mixer in cocktails (Blanche, VS, or VSOP) -Use in cooking to liven up a sauce, flame poultry or deglaze a pan (VS) -Use in deserts or to macerate fruit (Blanche, VS, VSOP) -Pair with richly prepared food like game or foie gras (VS or VSOP) -Pair with cheese or chocolate at the end of a meal (VS, VSOP, or XO) For sheer indulgence, enjoy in the traditional way: -After a hearty meal (XO, Hors d’Age, 25 year or Vintage) -Paired with a cigar (Hors d’Age, or 25 year or Vintage)