Fitting the Bust5 ways to add bust fullness

By Linda Lee

Whats in This Tutorial? How to raise and lower an existing bust

dart - pages 9, 10

How to add a bust dart to a garment that does not have one - pages 11-16

How to enlarge the bust without adding a dart - pages 17-20

How to add bust fullness without a dart in knit garments, method 1 - pages 21-23

How to add bust fullness in knit garments, method 2 - page 24

2

Record Measurements Use a good quality tape measure

that hasnt stretched and has its original metal ends in place.

Wear well-fitting and new-ish foundation garments.

Stand in front of a mirror when taking your own measurements to make sure the tape is level.

Record the measurements and keep in an accessible place.

3

High Bust

Fit the tape measure under your arms and wrap it evenly across the widest part of the back and above the full bust.

Relax and breathe!

4

Full BustWithout pulling the tape too tight, measure over the fullest part of the bust. Check to make sure the tape is straight and parallel to the floor.NOTE: If the full bust measurement is more than 2 larger than the high bust, use the high bust measurement as the bust measurement when selecting a pattern size.

Garment Minimum Bust Ease

Blouse, Dress 2" to 3"

Unlined jacket 3" to 4"

Lined jacket 3" to 4"

Coat 4" to 5"

5

Distance Between Bust Points

Measure the distance between the bust points.

NOTE: This measurement is used when adding or moving bust darts.

6

Neck Point to Bust Point

Measure from the shoulder/neck point to the bust point.

Find the shoulder/neck point by wearing a simple chain necklace or bending your neck toward the shoulder to locate the crease.

NOTE: This measurement is also used when adding or moving bust darts.

7

Find Your Starting Size - TOPS

High Bust - 36"Full Bust - 40"

Waist - 32"

MEASUREMENTS More than 2" difference between high and full bust. Use the high bust measurement.

Make a size Medium and adjust for the full bust and waist.

8

Placing the Bust Point Use the neck point to bust

point measurement to place the bust point from the shoulder/neck seamline.

Use the distance between bust points measurement to determine the distance from the center front. Divide the measurement in half.

9

Neck

poi

nt to

bus

t poi

nt

Distance between bust points divided by 2

Cent

er F

ront

Measure from where the shoulder and neck seams meet

Lower Bust Darts Using the previous

measurements, mark your new bust point on the pattern.

Draw a horizontal line on the pattern 1/2 above and below the underarm dart at right angles to the grainline. Connect the lines with a vertical line through the existing dart point. Cut out the rectangle on the marked lines.

Front pattern piece

10

Stra

ight

of g

rain

Lower Bust Darts Lower the dart the amount

needed. Position the existing dart point on the new bust point.

Place pattern paper under the pattern and tape in place.

Connect the side seam cutting lines.

To RAISE bust darts, remove the same rectangular pattern section of the existing dart and shift upwards the amount needed.

11

Add Bust Dart Draw the new bust point on the

pattern.

Draw a horizontal line perpendicular to the grainline from the side seam through the bust point to the center front.

Draw a second line diagonally from the bust point to the notch on the armscye.

Draw a third line from the bust point to the bottom of the garment.

Use a red marking pencil to draw your lines.

12

Cent

er fr

ont

Add Bust Dart Place paper under the front. Cut

the pattern on the first horizontal line from the side seam to the bust point, leaving a hinge.

Cut the pattern apart starting at the bottom of the pattern continuing through the diagonal line to the armhole, leaving a hinge.

Spread the vertical line on the pattern according to the cup sizes listed above, keeping the lines parallel. (The pie shape that forms is not the true dart.

13

C cup - 1/2D cup - 3/4

DD/E cup - 1 1/4DDD/ED cup - 1 1/2

Spread here

Add Bust Dart

Cut the pattern from the bust point to the center front. Slide the pattern section down until the two pattern hemlines align. Tape in place. Restore the center front and hemlines.

14

Slide down

Add Bust Dart

15

To find the true dart, draw a line from the original bust point to the side seam in the center of the wedge opening. This is the center foldline of the dart.

Mark a new dot toward the side seam on this foldline.

Smaller than size 16 - dot is 1 away from the original bust point

Larger than a size 16 - dot is 2 to 2 1/2 from the original bust point

New pointCenter of wedge opening

Add Bust Dart

16

Draw the legs of the dart using the new bust point as the tip and the top and the bottom opening points of the wedge at the ends.

Fold the dart in half along the center foldline, matching the dart legs and folding the dart down. Cut off the excess paper along the side seams.

For a full bust, try pressing the darts up to give the appearance of a more uplifted look.

For a bust alteration when more than 1 1/2 is needed, use the Y bust dart method in Fit for Real People by Patti Palmer and Marta Alto, page 146.

Bust Enlargement (no dart)

17

Mark the bust point on your pattern.

Draw a vertical line parallel to the grainline from the bottom to the bust point. Continue this line diagonally to the outer third of the shoulder seam.

Draw a horizontal line, perpendicular to the grainline, from the side seam to the bust point.

For a full bust, try pressing the darts up to give the appearance of a more uplifted look.

Bust Enlargement (no dart)

18

Cut along both lines, leaving hinges at the shoulder and side edges.

Place paper under the front.

Spread the vertical line on the pattern, keeping the lines parallel. Allow the lefthand bottom section to overlap the top section.

Tape the sections in place.Spread here

Overlap here

Bust Enlargement (no dart)

19

Using a curved ruler such as a hip curve, true the bottom hemline leaving the side seam the original length.

Restore the shoulder line and side seam.

HIP CURVE

Bust Enlargement (no dart)

20

When the extra width is only needed in the bust area and not at the hips, manipulate the lower left section so that the bottom corner meets the vertical line and the two vertical lines are no longer parallel.

Restore the hemline, shoulder line and side seam as previously directed.

Sections connect at this point

Bust Enlargement in Knit Garments - Method 1

21

Mark the bust point on the pattern.

Starting midway between the shoulder seam and the armscye notch, draw a line perpendicular to the grainline.

Pivot this line and extend it vertically to the bottom of the front.

At 3 below the armscye, draw a line from the side seam to the center front perpendicular to the grainline.

3

Bust Enlargement in Knit Garments - Method 1

22

Cut through all lines.

Move the armhole section out up to 3/4 for a total of 1 1/2 ease across the complete front/bust.

Move the lower center front section down from 1 to 2 depending on your bust size and the amount that the garment rides up.

Up to 3/4

1 to 2

Bust Enlargement in Knit Garments - Method 1

23

Use a curved ruler such as a hip curve to restore the armscye, side seam and bottom hem.

Restore the center front line.

HIP CURVE

Bust Enlargement in Knit Garments - Method 2

24

Draw a horizontal line from the side seam to the center front through the bust point.

Cut along this line and spread the sections an even 1/2.

Mark a point 1/4 to 3/4from the side seam at the spread area.

Use a curved ruler such as a French curve to draw a curved shape at the side seam.

When sewing the front to the back, ease this curved area to retain the added fullness and keep the side seams the same length.

FRENCH CURVE

1/2 spread

1/4 to 3/4

Credits

25

Here are some resources that I used when researching this topic. Consider adding these to your library of techniques.

Easy Guide to Sewing Tops & T-Shirts by Marcy Tilton, page 46Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina, pages 150 -173Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer & Marta Alto, page 146Louise Cutting, Cutting Line DesignsThe Perfect Fit, Creative Publishing International, pages 73-79Threads magazine, November 2009, #145, page 84

Fitting the BustBy Linda Lee